Custom Automated Electronic Masking - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 23 Old 03-15-2018, 04:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Custom Automated (No button) Electronic Masking

I finally got around to making an electronic masking system. This one is a bit different though. The system is intelligent. When I start a movie via Kodi, my software I wrote detects the movie aspect ratio and then applies the masking accordingly. If the movie is 16:9 no masking is done. If it's 1.9:1, 2.2:1 or 2.4:1, appropriate masking is performed. Also the video is automatically moved to the top of the screen so that only the bottom needs to be masked. The entire setup probably cost around $300 and took me about 4 hours to create and install (minus software which I spent a bit longer to write). I think it's the only of its kind in the world.

Here is a video of the mask in action:

I used 2 track actuators for the motors, a DPDT relay, and for the PC side, I used a dual USB relay. Parts:
2 24" stroke track actuators: https://www.progressiveautomations.c...track-actuator $230 for the pair
1 10 amp dpdt relay: https://www.progressiveautomations.com/ac-22 $17
12vdc 10amp power supply: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Z9X4GLW $16.99
1 dual USB relay: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071XHF67G $12.60
5 yards of black velvet (from ebay) $35 or so
1 13 foot piece of 2x1/2 trim board from home depot. I cut it to size. $13

I mounted each actuator on the wall to the left and right of my screen. I laid the board across the top of the velvet and wrapped it over the board then used a staple gun to attach it. The velvet hangs down like a drape. When the mask is down, the velvet sits on the floor. My black carpet and room is so dark you cant see it. I took a photo of the drape in the down position when on the floor with flash and attached it. When the velvet is up, it hangs like a drape. Each side of the board holding the velvet was attached to the bracket on the track actuator. The actuators were wired together as a single unit and into my relay system so my PC can control it. I also made some remote control codes (also via the PC, remote to PC which moves the actuators) in case I need some manual control.

The design was fairly simple also because I automated the process of moving the picture in the movie player to the top so that there is only 1 large bar to cover rather than bars on top and bottom. For someone that didn't have the software to do this, you could either cover just the bottom (You really don't notice top bars as much) or you could use your remote and picture memory to move the picture up and cover the bottom like I did. You could automate the moving of the projector lens and enabling the actuator to a single remote press on a programmable remote system with macros.

I have attached a couple photos of the actuators mounted. Sorry, room is so dark this is with the lights on and camera flash and is still dark.

Also you'll notice my mask goes up then down a little. This is because the right actuator goes a little faster than the left. So I move it all the way to the top, then back down to where it needs to be. The way down both move more evenly. I'm going to put a resistance knob on the right actuator and slow it down to the speed of the left one. But that's a job for another day. (Probably the exact day my part shows up for it).

For those that don't take the steps to control via PC, can simply get a remote controller for these and use that instead. Will still be electronic but just not automatic and intelligent. Something like this would do the job: https://www.progressiveautomations.com/pa-31 $85
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Video: JVC RS4500 135" screen in pure black room no light, htpc nvidia 1080ti.
Audio: Anthem mrx720 running 7.1.4, McIntosh MC-303, MC-152, B&W 802d3 LR, B&W HTM1D3 center, B&W 805d3 surround, B&W 702S2 rear, B&W 706s2 x 4 shelf mounted for atmos, 2 sub arrays both infinite baffle: 4x15 fi audio running on behringer ep4000 + 4x12 fi audio running on 2nd ep4000.

Last edited by markmon1; 03-15-2018 at 04:41 AM.
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post #2 of 23 Old 03-15-2018, 04:32 AM - Thread Starter
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If anyone is interested in the software, it requires having Kodi launch an external player and to have zoom player installed. I then intercept that, do my stuff, and then launch zoom player. The scripts are written in autoit and would need to be modified by the person using it. (My script does a lot of other stuff like tell my projector to go into cinema 2 for HDR, or kick the receiver into the correct input etc).
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Video: JVC RS4500 135" screen in pure black room no light, htpc nvidia 1080ti.
Audio: Anthem mrx720 running 7.1.4, McIntosh MC-303, MC-152, B&W 802d3 LR, B&W HTM1D3 center, B&W 805d3 surround, B&W 702S2 rear, B&W 706s2 x 4 shelf mounted for atmos, 2 sub arrays both infinite baffle: 4x15 fi audio running on behringer ep4000 + 4x12 fi audio running on 2nd ep4000.
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post #3 of 23 Old 03-15-2018, 04:43 AM
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Very nice work.

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post #4 of 23 Old 03-15-2018, 05:27 AM
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Very nice indeed. I’m currently working on something similar with top botttom masking for CIW. Going to use linear actuators too, still in the design plan though. I like that you used track actuators instead. I wonder if they have those actuator with potentiometer as that’s what I need.
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post #5 of 23 Old 03-15-2018, 01:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluer101 View Post
Very nice indeed. I’m currently working on something similar with top botttom masking for CIW. Going to use linear actuators too, still in the design plan though. I like that you used track actuators instead. I wonder if they have those actuator with potentiometer as that’s what I need.
I ordered up this speed control to balance the right one. It should allow me to slow it variably down. https://www.progressiveautomations.com/ac-14
The alternative is to use a 4-way relay and my software can control each side independently but this should do the job.

If you need any help let me know. The top bars are really not noticeable though so evec if you did a bottom only solution I bet you'd find the benefits.

Video: JVC RS4500 135" screen in pure black room no light, htpc nvidia 1080ti.
Audio: Anthem mrx720 running 7.1.4, McIntosh MC-303, MC-152, B&W 802d3 LR, B&W HTM1D3 center, B&W 805d3 surround, B&W 702S2 rear, B&W 706s2 x 4 shelf mounted for atmos, 2 sub arrays both infinite baffle: 4x15 fi audio running on behringer ep4000 + 4x12 fi audio running on 2nd ep4000.
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post #6 of 23 Old 03-15-2018, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
I ordered up this speed control to balance the right one. It should allow me to slow it variably down. https://www.progressiveautomations.com/ac-14
The alternative is to use a 4-way relay and my software can control each side independently but this should do the job.

If you need any help let me know. The top bars are really not noticeable though so evec if you did a bottom only solution I bet you'd find the benefits.
Thanks, I’m set on doing top and bottom. I’m going to use 2 actuators, one for top and one for bottom. I’m going to center mount them and use drawer slides on the sides. I’m going to order parts and do a mock-up first, we will see.
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post #7 of 23 Old 03-15-2018, 10:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluer101 View Post
Thanks, I’m set on doing top and bottom. I’m going to use 2 actuators, one for top and one for bottom. I’m going to center mount them and use drawer slides on the sides. I’m going to order parts and do a mock-up first, we will see.
That should all work assuming you have a place to mount those actuators that isn't in the middle of the screen. I had to mount mine on the sides. There's no room under or above the screen for this stuff over here. At least when doing both top and bottom you can get half throw of the actuators as you only have to cover half what I had to cover. Probably 12" throw is plenty for you. Assuming you mount the actuators correctly, you should be able to use a single controller having both run together as one actuator.

Video: JVC RS4500 135" screen in pure black room no light, htpc nvidia 1080ti.
Audio: Anthem mrx720 running 7.1.4, McIntosh MC-303, MC-152, B&W 802d3 LR, B&W HTM1D3 center, B&W 805d3 surround, B&W 702S2 rear, B&W 706s2 x 4 shelf mounted for atmos, 2 sub arrays both infinite baffle: 4x15 fi audio running on behringer ep4000 + 4x12 fi audio running on 2nd ep4000.
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post #8 of 23 Old 03-16-2018, 09:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
That should all work assuming you have a place to mount those actuators that isn't in the middle of the screen. I had to mount mine on the sides. There's no room under or above the screen for this stuff over here. At least when doing both top and bottom you can get half throw of the actuators as you only have to cover half what I had to cover. Probably 12" throw is plenty for you. Assuming you mount the actuators correctly, you should be able to use a single controller having both run together as one actuator.
Yep, that’s what I thought about doing. They sell a controller with 3 programming buttons. It’s cheaper from other companies than on the site you listed. Then with the actuators with feedback will bring it all together, hopefully.

I’m trying to make my masking panels so when I’m showing 16:9 the top and bottom panels slip into the soffit above and stage below. Then when in 2:40 they will be flush with the soffit and stage. This is so I can have my AT screen to unlatch and flip open and up. So the masking and screen I’ll be together. I want the look of a completely flat screen wall at all times, hope I explained it right.
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post #9 of 23 Old 03-16-2018, 04:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluer101 View Post
Yep, that’s what I thought about doing. They sell a controller with 3 programming buttons. It’s cheaper from other companies than on the site you listed. Then with the actuators with feedback will bring it all together, hopefully.

I’m trying to make my masking panels so when I’m showing 16:9 the top and bottom panels slip into the soffit above and stage below. Then when in 2:40 they will be flush with the soffit and stage. This is so I can have my AT screen to unlatch and flip open and up. So the masking and screen I’ll be together. I want the look of a completely flat screen wall at all times, hope I explained it right.
So something to consider which will simplify your design a ton. The Epson 5040 has lens memory. You can move the picture to the top of the screen via lens shift and set a memory point for 2.35:1 and then mask only the bottom. Then you can have your learning remote send the projector code and remote masking code at same time.
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Video: JVC RS4500 135" screen in pure black room no light, htpc nvidia 1080ti.
Audio: Anthem mrx720 running 7.1.4, McIntosh MC-303, MC-152, B&W 802d3 LR, B&W HTM1D3 center, B&W 805d3 surround, B&W 702S2 rear, B&W 706s2 x 4 shelf mounted for atmos, 2 sub arrays both infinite baffle: 4x15 fi audio running on behringer ep4000 + 4x12 fi audio running on 2nd ep4000.
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post #10 of 23 Old 03-17-2018, 08:59 AM
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I have a masking system where I shift the 2:35/2:70 image to the bottom of the screen and mask the top only. Using a car power window motor attached to a 2" x 9' electrical steel conduit with black velvet rolled on it weighted on the bottom hem so it lowers like a roller shade. I have limit switches at both ends so it won't go too far. A simple toggle switch moves it up or down. Kodi DSplayer will auto locate your image or the default player can be manually set once for each movie file. My projector also has manual lens shift so if I am not using Kodi I put a gear motor on the lens shift knob and can shift the image down with another toggle switch. Total cost was well under $100.

"Smart enough to know better, to old to care" ------ Dedicated Bat Cave Home Theater, JVC RS49U/Mitsubishi HC7900DW Projector, 110" 16:9 Jamestown screen with variable power masking for CIW 2.50:1 to 16:9, Marantz 7009 with 7.1.4 Atmos with Ohm mains,3 DIY Subs (2 15" (1 ported, 1 sealed and a 12" 4th order bandpass), 1 DIY butt kicker, Custom Built HTPC, 18TB DroboFS NAS
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post #11 of 23 Old 03-21-2018, 07:09 PM
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Awesome work.

what-i-d-do-differently-next-timehttps://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-ded...l#post55641388
Epson Projector Power Supply Failure.https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-dig...lure-rate.html
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post #12 of 23 Old 03-21-2018, 10:37 PM - Thread Starter
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To solve the right actuator being faster than the left, I added a stereo l-pad to the right actuator today and increased resistance slowly until they both move at even speeds. Works great.

Video: JVC RS4500 135" screen in pure black room no light, htpc nvidia 1080ti.
Audio: Anthem mrx720 running 7.1.4, McIntosh MC-303, MC-152, B&W 802d3 LR, B&W HTM1D3 center, B&W 805d3 surround, B&W 702S2 rear, B&W 706s2 x 4 shelf mounted for atmos, 2 sub arrays both infinite baffle: 4x15 fi audio running on behringer ep4000 + 4x12 fi audio running on 2nd ep4000.
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post #13 of 23 Old 03-22-2018, 06:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
To solve the right actuator being faster than the left, I added a stereo l-pad to the right actuator today and increased resistance slowly until they both move at even speeds. Works great.
Nice work.
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post #14 of 23 Old 04-16-2018, 06:30 PM
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markmon1,

It's pretty cool that you built your own masking system. I took the easy way out and use the Carada CIH Masquerade screen. I modded Funkd's ScopeNox and added some code to do auto aspect ratio detection. The code also detects hard coded black bars. So far, over a year old and countless movies played. No problems as of yet with the code. Everyone loves it. Just select a movie and everything is automagic.

Here's the link to the avs forum thread: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/117-2-...-cih-skin.html
I don't have mad computer skills so the code on github is just a "minimum viable product."

You inspired me to make a video of the skin:

The whole thing runs on a little NVIDIA Shield and SPMC. Too bad that SPMC is no longer being developed. With the Shield, SPMC, and CIHAutoNox, 4k content, HDR, Atmos, DTS-MA is a breeze. All from one tiny box with no fans for around $180.

-Thai
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post #15 of 23 Old 06-13-2018, 10:51 PM
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...adding myself to thread. Might build this set up out as well.

Sony 285es 4k , 16'6" from the screen. 142" Silver Ticket 2.35:1 A/T Screen. Yamaha RX-A3050, 7 Channel Outlaw Amp, 7.2.4 speaker layout. Triad Bronze L/C/R , Triad Silver Omni SE Surround(Sides), Triad Bipole Gold OnWall Rear, 4 Ceiling Silver Ticket Speakers. SVS PB2000 Subwoofer and a PB1000, Oppo. 203 player, XBox One X, Roku 4, Logitech remote, Alexa Controlled
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post #16 of 23 Old 06-29-2018, 02:54 PM
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First, great setup...well beyond what I could do...but how big/low is your 16:9 screen? The reason I ask is I do a 151.5" 16:9 and the 143.5" of 2.35:1 is perfect in the middle of the screen. If I moved the 2.35:1 up, it would just be too uncomfortably high to watch.

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post #17 of 23 Old 06-30-2018, 06:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by steve1106 View Post
First, great setup...well beyond what I could do...but how big/low is your 16:9 screen? The reason I ask is I do a 151.5" 16:9 and the 143.5" of 2.35:1 is perfect in the middle of the screen. If I moved the 2.35:1 up, it would just be too uncomfortably high to watch.
I'm 8.5 feet from a 135". Reclined back slightly I still have to look slightly down to see the center of the image. Moving the picture up definitely helps the rear rows clearance.
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Video: JVC RS4500 135" screen in pure black room no light, htpc nvidia 1080ti.
Audio: Anthem mrx720 running 7.1.4, McIntosh MC-303, MC-152, B&W 802d3 LR, B&W HTM1D3 center, B&W 805d3 surround, B&W 702S2 rear, B&W 706s2 x 4 shelf mounted for atmos, 2 sub arrays both infinite baffle: 4x15 fi audio running on behringer ep4000 + 4x12 fi audio running on 2nd ep4000.
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post #18 of 23 Old 07-01-2018, 06:52 AM
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I have my zoom / shift set to center the image as well when I zoom, but only have a single row. With multi rows if the front row reclines and the second row on a riser I could see having the image moving up working pretty well. Digital image shift for scope movies is a nice feature using the unused pixels. I had that feature 15 years ago with my very first projector and now it is hard to find. I don’t understand why.

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post #19 of 23 Old 06-17-2019, 07:33 AM
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This is awesome. You mention this is connected to Kodi, is this on an HTPC, or a Kodi client device in the theater, connected to a server? Any idea if it's possible/what it would require to make your software talk to a Plex server/client setup?

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post #20 of 23 Old 06-17-2019, 02:16 PM
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That's cool, but what happens during aspect ratio changing films - does it cycle aspect ratios ?
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post #21 of 23 Old 06-17-2019, 03:01 PM
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That's cool, but what happens during aspect ratio changing films - does it cycle aspect ratios ?


This is where I would like to see players do a better job. I only ever want to see scope. I don’t give a rip what the filmmakers want. Kodi should be able to crop to the middle 800 pixels on a 1080 frame and shift them to the top.


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post #22 of 23 Old 06-17-2019, 03:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRock3x8 View Post
This is where I would like to see players do a better job. I only ever want to see scope. I don’t give a rip what the filmmakers want. Kodi should be able to crop to the middle 800 pixels on a 1080 frame and shift them to the top.


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JVC's have " mask " which can just cut off the black bar area, or if you use an anamorphic lens on a scope screen, that will stop the change on the screen too.
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post #23 of 23 Old 06-17-2019, 03:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig Peer View Post
JVC's have " mask " which can just cut off the black bar area, or if you use an anamorphic lens on a scope screen, that will stop the change on the screen too.


That is a price range I will never participate in.


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