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post #1 of 37 Old 11-04-2019, 11:06 AM - Thread Starter
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First venture into projection.

Hey guys, I'm hoping I can get some help. I'm an experienced home theater guy and have been installing equipment for years but always shied away from projection/screen work. So please don't pull any punches...


I was given a Viewsonic PX727-4K and am fully aware it's not the greatest but I think I want to get my toes wet with installing it in my basement. Here's the problem...when we did renos we had the duct work and new I-Beam cased in (we'll call this "the gap") and the HDMI/AC outlets are on the ceiling on the opposite side of the sweet spot of all the throw calculators and comes down about 9" from the ceiling and is about 3' wide. I had the reno guys install the AC in front of the gap years ago and I installed a CAT6 run for an HDMI extension. Obviously at the time I didn't know anything about throw calculators because the distance from the front wall where the screen will be to the gap is about 95". Basically I did a dummy test and held the projector in that place and it was maybe 2-3" bigger than the 65" Panny VT60 that's down there right now on the wall. Absolutely no way I'm doing all this work for the same sized image. So... If I go behind the gap I'm around 162" to the wall. I should also mention that the TV will stay on the wall and the screen will be be getting pulled down in front of it. This buys me roughly another 8" which brings my total throw to 154" (the MAX for 100" with this projector). Re-routing the HDMI/AC from behind the gap and into the installed outlets will not be a problem. I installed Atmos speakers and have an intimate understanding of what's behind the ceiling. So long story short, I'm going to have to find a mount that will extend about 12" from the ceiling to be able to throw under the gap but I'm worried about what that will translate to on the screen. This projector has ZERO lens shifting. Here are some pics of the room, PLEASE HELP. I'm worried about how it's all going to line up. It has to be PERFECT or I'll go nuts. Here's a pic and the data forms. I will have EXACT lengths and dimensions of the room tonight.



Will vertical offset be OK? So many questions.....


This screen or this? would either work?


https://www.amazon.ca/Elite-Screens-...2890669&sr=8-4


https://www.amazon.ca/Elite-Screens-...2890720&sr=8-5













Last edited by copene; 11-05-2019 at 07:12 AM.
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post #2 of 37 Old 11-04-2019, 09:56 PM
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@copene


What is the seating distance?
100" with a 4K projector on a screen from 158"/13ft is bit far.


Viewsonic's PX727-4K specifications's page do not exactly match:
https://www.viewsonic.com/eu/product...s/PX727-4K.php
https://www.projectorcentral.com/ViewSonic-PX727-4K.htm
https://www.viewsonic.com/us/catalog.../px727-4k.html

PX727-4K calculator, but it rounds up figures:
https://www.projectorcentral.com/Vie...ulator-pro.htm
Offset from this calculator is 109.6%.

Screen calculator:
http://screen-size.info/


From the manual the specifications would be:
Throw range:1.469 to 1.762
Offset: 110%

Other specifications:
Dimensions (WxDxH) w/adjustment foot: 332x261x135mm

Dimensions (imperial) (WxHxD):
Physical (in.): 13.1 x 5.3 x 10.3
Dimensions (metric) (WxHxD):
Physical (mm): 332.0 x 135.0 x 261.0





Offset 110% means that the top visible part of the screen will be 10% (out of screen height) under the center of the lens.
An 100" screen 16:9 format height is 49"/124.5cm. 10% of that is 4.9"/12.45cm.

If the distance from the wall to where the beam ends is 158"/401.32cm, the screen size can go from 103" to 123".
But the screen would be at some distance from the wall. If the screen is 4" from the wall the distance would be 154", with the screen size from 100" to 120".

If the projector is placed on the TV side of the beam, 158"-36"(3')=122"
122"-10.3" (PJ depth)-5" (cables at the back)-4" (wall to screen)=102.7"
From 102.7" to screen the image can be from 67" to 80".




If the height of the beam is 12", and the offset is 4.9" (for an 100" screen), with the lens just below the beam, the top of the visible part of the screen must be at 16.9" from the ceiling.

The two Elite screens have a drop of ~4.7". Not sure if this figure includes the height of the casing. If the casing is not included in the 4.7" drop, it looks to be ~2.5". Either way, not enough.

Either look for a screen with a longer drop, or mount it like this:

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post #3 of 37 Old 11-05-2019, 07:22 AM - Thread Starter
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First post updated with new measurement pic.





Thank you so much for the reply. I redid the measurements last night and I can get the throw to be 154" with no wiggle room for it to be less. Seating in the room is under the gap with the back of the couch being about 8" past it, basically right under where the projector is to be mounted. The problem I'm facing now is that when I hold the projector where it will be mounted I am not getting a perfect rectangle. I can offset this with a -2 or -3 keystone adjustment but from what I've read, that's a huge no no and I'd rather not do this at all if I'm stuck. My ceilings in the basement are only about 7' so I would prefer the image to be as high as possible. I think you're right, about 2.5" for the metal part of the screen, then 4.7" of drop and then this projector has an automatic big black border of like 2" that can't be turned off.



This is what the image looks like:



Last edited by copene; 11-05-2019 at 07:33 AM.
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post #4 of 37 Old 11-05-2019, 08:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by copene View Post
First post updated with new measurement pic.





Thank you so much for the reply. I redid the measurements last night and I can get the throw to be 154" with no wiggle room for it to be less. Seating in the room is under the gap with the back of the couch being about 8" past it, basically right under where the projector is to be mounted. The problem I'm facing now is that when I hold the projector where it will be mounted I am not getting a perfect rectangle. I can offset this with a -2 or -3 keystone adjustment but from what I've read, that's a huge no no and I'd rather not do this at all if I'm stuck. My ceilings in the basement are only about 7' so I would prefer the image to be as high as possible. I think you're right, about 2.5" for the metal part of the screen, then 4.7" of drop and then this projector has an automatic big black border of like 2" that can't be turned off.



This is what the image looks like:

Use this calculator:
https://www.projectorcentral.com/Vie...ulator-pro.htm

This unit has offset 110%. For an 100" screen that is 4.9".
This means that the top of the visible part of the screen needs to be 4.9" inches lower than the center of the lens.
The entire lens needs to be under the beam.
This would put the center of the lens at ~11" from the ceiling.
Center of lens ~11"+ drop of 4.9"=15.9"
The top of the screen needs to start at 15.9" from the ceiling.

The screens in the links have a total drop of ~6".
It's possible that the 4.7" drop includes the casing. Contact Elite or check the answers in the amazon page, someone might have asked this question.

Also take into consideration that the screen will be at a few inches away from the wall, so 154" minus whatever distance that is.

There are two options:
1.Find another screen with the proper drop.
2.Install the screen with chain/wire, like it's shown in the picture above.

Angling the projector upwards will result in a trapezoidal image.
This could be corrected using Keystone. Keystone is software processing and will affect the quality of the image.
Keystone's stepping may not be finely tuned to match the screen, and a slightly trapezoidal image will still remain.



There is no seating distance to screen that will fit everyone, what is encouraged is that the projector is used for a few days on the wall to see what is acceptable.
However, 100" from 154"/12'10" is somewhat far.
The general recommendation is 10" to 12" in diagonal, for each foot in distance to viewer. For 154" that would be between ~120" to ~150" screen.

LE:
If keystone were to be used the projector would need to be dropped even further so that the beam does not hit the light beam.
Keystone: Vertical (+/- 40°)
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Last edited by noob00224; 11-05-2019 at 08:19 AM.
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post #5 of 37 Old 11-05-2019, 08:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noob00224 View Post
Use this calculator:
https://www.projectorcentral.com/Vie...ulator-pro.htm

This unit has offset 110%. For an 100" screen that is 4.9".
This means that the top of the visible part of the screen needs to be 4.9" inches lower than the center of the lens.
The entire lens needs to be under the beam.
This would put the center of the lens at ~11" from the ceiling.
Center of lens ~11"+ drop of 4.9"=15.9"
The top of the screen needs to start at 15.9" from the ceiling.

The screens in the links have a total drop of ~6".
It's possible that the 4.7" drop includes the casing. Contact Elite or check the answers in the amazon page, someone might have asked this question.

Also take into consideration that the screen will be at a few inches away from the wall, so 154" minus whatever distance that is.

There are two options:
1.Find another screen with the proper drop.
2.Install the screen with chain/wire, like it's shown in the picture above.

Angling the projector upwards will result in a trapezoidal image.
This could be corrected using Keystone. Keystone is software processing and will affect the quality of the image.
Keystone's stepping may not be finely tuned to match the screen, and a slightly trapezoidal image will still remain.



There is no seating distance to screen that will fit everyone, what is encouraged is that the projector is used for a few days on the wall to see what is acceptable.
However, 100" from 154"/12'10" is somewhat far.
The general recommendation is 10" to 12" in diagonal, for each foot in distance to viewer. For 154" that would be between ~120" to ~150" screen.

LE:
If keystone were to be used the projector would need to be dropped even further so that the beam does not hit the light beam.
Keystone: Vertical (+/- 40°)

I think I get it, thanks so much. Maybe what I should do is look at putting it further back and doing 120" screen. Only problem is, like I said, the room is only about 7' high so if I'm starting the image like 16" from the ceiling, the bottom of it is going to be damn near the ground! Also, I've taken into consideration the 8" from the wall. That's what would get me 154". I could try at like 165" and see what happens. I think it's going to be crazy low though. Also at this point I would look at moving the screen even more forward and looking for an acoustical transparent screen so I could leave the center channel behind it. Any recommendations?

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post #6 of 37 Old 11-05-2019, 08:58 AM - Thread Starter
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https://www.amazon.ca/Elite-Screens-...82&sr=8-3&th=1


Maybe this one? 120" won't work I don't think.
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post #7 of 37 Old 11-05-2019, 09:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by copene View Post
I think I get it, thanks so much. Maybe what I should do is look at putting it further back and doing 120" screen. Only problem is, like I said, the room is only about 7' high so if I'm starting the image like 16" from the ceiling, the bottom of it is going to be damn near the ground! Also, I've taken into consideration the 8" from the wall. That's what would get me 154". I could try at like 165" and see what happens. I think it's going to be crazy low though.
If from wall to screen is 8" that is enough space for the TV to sit behind the screen.

The projector does not have to be moved to get an 120" screen from 154".
This unit has a zoom.
With no zoom, from 154" the screen is 100".
With 100% zoom from 154", the screen is 120".
You can use the calculator in the post above.

The closer the projector is to the screen, the brighter it will be.
Best to keep it closer.




The offset will be different for an 120" screen.

The height of an 120" screen in 16:9 format is 58.8".
http://screen-size.info/

Offset is 110%. That means 5.88" offset, the top of the screen is 5.88" under the center of the lens.


An 120" screen will also have a different drop.
From the Amazon links in the first post, there is only one 120" screen available, with a 24" drop:
https://www.amazon.ca/Elite-Screens-...0017R1IXI?th=1
Model:M120XWH2-E24
https://elitescreens.com/images/down...B16_Manual.pdf
From the pdf, the height of the drop is 610mm (B2), and 92mm (B5) for the case height.
That's 24" + 3.6"=27.6"
This screen also has some hinges for ceiling mounting. These appear to be ~1" to 1.5"

Total drop ~29".

Center of lens is 5.88" above, so the lens will be 23.12" from the ceiling.


Note: non tensioned drop down screens are prone to developing waves do varying degress.
Tensioned drop down screens are less prone, but are more expensive.


Generally speaking, eye level should be 1/3rd from the bottom of the screen (height).
Average height of the human eye level is 50 inches (127cm) seated and 60 inches (152.4cm) standing.

7ft(84")-29"(drop)-58.8" (height)=minus 3.8"





For personal adjustment, use this method:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave in Green View Post
What you want to do is lay back in your typical viewing position with your eyes shut. When you open your eyes you should be looking at the vertical point on the wall where your vision naturally falls. For most people that point should be around or somewhat below where the vertical center of the screen should be positioned. The more you can fine tune this before permanently mounting the screen the more comfortable you're likely to be when viewing. When I sit in my reclining chair with eyes shut and then open my eyes my eyesight naturally falls at a higher point on the wall when the chair is reclined than when it's upright.
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post #8 of 37 Old 11-05-2019, 09:22 AM
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Quote:
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Also at this point I would look at moving the screen even more forward and looking for an acoustical transparent screen so I could leave the center channel behind it. Any recommendations?
That is not an AT screen.

LE:
The drop of some of these screens can be manually adjusted, including the 29" drop above. So you could have 0 drop, just the case.
Need to check the specs or Amazon answers to find out if they can.
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post #9 of 37 Old 11-05-2019, 10:17 AM - Thread Starter
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I've done all the math. With 7' ceilings and the projector having to be behind the ducts with lens 11" from the ceiling the job becomes impossible. The screen is just too low. I would need NO DUCTS, a 3" ceiling mount and I'd still be top of screen ~10" from the ceiling. I guess I'll have to wait for short throw. **** me.



Thanks guys, I've learned a lot-
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post #10 of 37 Old 11-05-2019, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
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I've done all the math. With 7' ceilings and the projector having to be behind the ducts with lens 11" from the ceiling the job becomes impossible. The screen is just too low. I would need NO DUCTS, a 3" ceiling mount and I'd still be top of screen ~10" from the ceiling. I guess I'll have to wait for short throw. **** me.



Thanks guys, I've learned a lot-
The lens is ~11" from the ceiling.
Room height is 7'/84"

For an 120" screen the height is 58.8".
Offset is 5.88".
Screen will start at 11+5.88=16.88‬"
Screen will end at 84-16.88-58.8=8.32"
1/3rd of the screen would be 27.92‬"

Moving the seating position forward will enable the use of a 100" screen.
Offset is 4.9".
Screen will start at 11+4.9=15.9"
Screen will end at 84-15.9-49=19"
1/3rd of the screen would be at 35.33"

Not ideal, depends if you're comfortable with the screen.
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post #11 of 37 Old 11-05-2019, 10:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Just for sh*ts and giggles, are there any projectors out there that with throw 100"+ from like 8'/96" away?
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post #12 of 37 Old 11-05-2019, 10:55 AM
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Quote:
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Just for sh*ts and giggles, are there any projectors out there that with throw 100"+ from like 8'/96" away?
Benq HT3550 - 97":
https://www.projectorcentral.com/Ben...ulator-pro.htm


In the 1080p segment there are a few.

The Optoma GT1080HDR can throw a 220" screen from that distance. It can be installed closer to the screen of course:
https://www.projectorcentral.com/Opt...ulator-pro.htm

And UST projectors of course.

LE: another option is a projector with lens shift. It could be placed further back, to a side even, and project the image high on the wall.
Epson HC3200/HC3800/HC4010.
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post #13 of 37 Old 11-05-2019, 11:40 AM - Thread Starter
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The HT3550 looks like it could work. Where do you find out how much "extra" space is needed? You know how you said the 727-4K need 110%? What does this one need, or where do you find that info? I know that the offset is 68mm which is great! Do all projectors have that "extra" space needed like the 727?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by copene View Post
The HT3550 looks like it could work. Where do you find out how much "extra" space is needed? You know how you said the 727-4K need 110%? What does this one need, or where do you find that info? I know that the offset is 68mm which is great! Do all projectors have that "extra" space needed like the 727?
Offset differs from model to model.
The HT3550 has 100% offset, which means that the center of the lens is at the top of the screen.
https://www.benq.com/en-us/projector...fications.html

Not sure if the 8'/96" dimension excludes space for the projector itself.
Dimensions (W x H x D)(mm)
380 x 127 x 263

It's 263mm/10.35" long, plus the cables at the back.


Have you looked at the Epson's?
They can be placed behind the beam, do not have to be on the central axis of the screen, and are very bright.

LE: With the Epsons a larger screen would be possible.
Lens shift for the HC4010:
Vertical: ±96
Horizontal: ±47

And for the HC3200/3800:
Vertical: -60.0% to +60.0% (H Center) manual
Horizontal: -24.0% to +24.0% (V Center) manual
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post #15 of 37 Old 11-05-2019, 11:56 AM - Thread Starter
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My dream would be to have it in front of the beam, that's where I have the AC and CAT6 and it would be totally hidden when you enter the room. I did take into play the dimensions of the projector itself so it looks like this would work. I am looking to have the image as high as humanly possible. So if the metal of the screen is 3", the drop is 4.7" and the projector needs 2.7" I'm in business. I'll check out the Epsons now.

EDIT: Do I have to use all of the 4.7" drop or could I use say 2" to have the top of the screen throw even higher?


https://www.amazon.ca/Elite-Screens-...2980332&sr=8-4



The killer is I got this thing for free.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by copene View Post
My dream would be to have it in front of the beam, that's where I have the AC and CAT6 and it would be totally hidden when you enter the room. I did take into play the dimensions of the projector itself so it looks like this would work. I am looking to have the image as high as humanly possible. So if the metal of the screen is 3", the drop is 4.7" and the projector needs 2.7" I'm in business. I'll check out the Epsons now.

EDIT: Do I have to use all of the 4.7" drop or could I use say 2" to have the top of the screen throw even higher?


https://www.amazon.ca/Elite-Screens-...2980332&sr=8-4



The killer is I got this thing for free.
This is a document with dimensions for Elite screens. Just search for the model, the 100" is M100UWH.
https://elitescreens.com/images/down...B16_Manual.pdf

Drop is 114mm, casing is 92mm.
4.48" and 3.62".

To find out if it's possible to use less drop, contact Elite or check the answers/reviews on Amazon.
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post #17 of 37 Old 11-05-2019, 12:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noob00224 View Post
This is a document with dimensions for Elite screens. Just search for the model, the 100" is M100UWH.
https://elitescreens.com/images/down...B16_Manual.pdf

Drop is 114mm, casing is 92mm.
4.48" and 3.62".

To find out if it's possible to use less drop, contact Elite or check the answers/reviews on Amazon.

Beautiful. Thanks. So once you have this all figured out, do you just use spacers to get the projector mounted perfectly? I could imagine it's going to be rough finding something that's perfect when every ****ing projector, room and screen is different.


Just for my understanding, let's see if I'm getting this 100%. So if I got the Optima and it needs 9" of offset and let's say the mount and lens positioning take another 4" I'd be up to 13" and the screen I'm looking at which has ~8" of case/drop would have the image on the screen 5" too low. Am I getting this?

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Quote:
Originally Posted by copene View Post
Beautiful. Thanks. So once you have this all figured out, do you just use spacers to get the projector mounted perfectly? I could imagine it's going to be rough finding something that's perfect when every ****ing projector, room and screen is different.


Just for my understanding, let's see if I'm getting this 100%. So if I got the Optima and it needs 9" of offset and let's say the mount and lens positioning take another 4" I'd be up to 13" and the screen I'm looking at which has ~8" of case/drop would have the image on the screen 5" too low. Am I getting this?
What spacers?
The projector is mounted on a ceiling mount. It needs to be precisely aligned with the screen.
The HT3550 does not have lateral lens shift, only a small amount of vertical shift:10% (out of the height of the screen) downwards (if ceiling installation).

The M100UWH screen appears to be able to modify the drop, but by how much, I'm not sure.
If you look at the product page, for ceiling installation chains are required, which take height.
https://elitescreens.com/front/front...il/product/227
Not sure if they can be installed without the chain.

The Optoma GT1080HDR has 116% ±5% offset. The offset is calculated depending on screen height.
Offset is 16% ±5% out of the screen height.
http://screen-size.info/

Also
The Optoma GT1080HDR is 1080p and the HT3550 is 4K.
The Elite screen in question is not AT.
100" at 13ft is too far away for 4K, even 1080p.
The projector mount also takes height.

LE:
That Optoma is a gaming model and is very bright. It has a RYGCWB color wheel. The HT3550 has a RGBRGB color wheel, which are the best for colors.
Some people are sensitive to a side effect of color wheels called RBE/rainbow effect. Since you have the Viewsonic you can test to see if you see anything like that. The effect is like a strobe light:
https://www.google.com/search?client...30.MgPW50haWPE

Last edited by noob00224; 11-05-2019 at 01:18 PM.
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post #19 of 37 Old 11-05-2019, 01:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Are there ceiling mounts that go from like 3"-10" that can be perfectly adjusted? 90% of the universal ones I've seen, there is no adjusting the space from the ceiling, it's fixed.


Like if I'm trying to throw the top of the screen 9.5" from the top of the ceiling and my mount is 4" and the middle of the lens is another 2" where do I make up the other 3.5"?
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post #20 of 37 Old 11-05-2019, 01:24 PM
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Like if I'm trying to throw the top of the screen 9.5" from the top of the ceiling and my mount is 4" and the middle of the lens is another 2" where do I make up the other 3.5"?

Not sure. You can ask on the HT3550 thread, maybe someone has had experience with very short mounts.
There may be improvised methods of attaching the projector:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...hread-165.html

From the manual:



Quote:
Originally Posted by copene View Post

Like if I'm trying to throw the top of the screen 9.5" from the top of the ceiling and my mount is 4" and the middle of the lens is another 2" where do I make up the other 3.5"?
Don't understand, sorry.
What is the setup?
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post #21 of 37 Old 11-05-2019, 02:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok, look at this diagram. Let's pretend the mount is 5" long and the middle of the lens is another 1". That makes the install perfectly 6" and I have an offset of 2.5" from the projector. So I need 8.5" top screen



Now let's say the ceiling mounted screen has a case of 4" and a drop of 6" which makes 10".



How do I compensate for the extra 1.5" without using lens shift or keystone?



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post #22 of 37 Old 11-05-2019, 03:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by copene View Post
Ok, look at this diagram. Let's pretend the mount is 5" long and the middle of the lens is another 1". That makes the install perfectly 6" and I have an offset of 2.5" from the projector. So I need 8.5" top screen



Now let's say the ceiling mounted screen has a case of 4" and a drop of 6" which makes 10".



How do I compensate for the extra 1.5" without using lens shift or keystone?


This model does not have an offset. The center of the lens is at the same level as the top of the screen.
With lens shift (if required), the image can be lowered (for an 100" screen) by up to 4.9".

From the diagram of the projector above, the distance from the center of the lens to the bottom of the projector (where the mount starts) is ~10cm/4".

So from ceiling to lens 5" (the mount) + 4" (to the center of the lens)=9"





In the picture above the screen looks like it's mounted on the wall, is the TV going to be removed?

The screen:
How do you plan to mount the screen, in the ceiling or wall where the TV is?

If it's the ceiling according to Elite's website it needs some sort of chain. How high is this chain/metal wire?

After that there is the height of the casing (3.62") and the height of the drop (4.48"). Total 8.1".
The drop could be decreased. the site says it's variable, but it's not clear by how much, or how little it can remain.

After that the visible part of the screen starts.

If you can find a 5" mount the lens would start at 9".
With the screen fully extended, the total height would be 8.1", with only 0.9" remaining for the chain/metal wire.
If this is not enough, the drop could be decreased to make room for the chain setup.

The elements that can modify their height in this setup are:
Screen drop.
Chain/Metal wire.
Lens shift downwards on the projector, if the center of the lens is somehow higher than the top of the screen.
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post #23 of 37 Old 11-06-2019, 07:16 AM - Thread Starter
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The diagram was hypothetical, my screen is going to be at least 7" from the wall. It Could be a projector with an offset of 6" with a 3" mount and a screen border/case/drop of 11". Or a projector with no offset with a 6" mount throwing to a screen with a 9" case/drop/border. That would mean I would have to search the earth for a mount that is perfectly made for either to line up perfectly?



If it was a FIXED mount I get it, you could literally throw the image, mark it on the wall and build because the screen could be as high or low as you want as long as you stick to the vertical offset of the projector. These pull down ones though, different beast because you are confined.
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post #24 of 37 Old 11-06-2019, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by copene View Post
The diagram was hypothetical, my screen is going to be at least 7" from the wall. It Could be a projector with an offset of 6" with a 3" mount and a screen border/case/drop of 11". Or a projector with no offset with a 6" mount throwing to a screen with a 9" case/drop/border. That would mean I would have to search the earth for a mount that is perfectly made for either to line up perfectly?



If it was a FIXED mount I get it, you could literally throw the image, mark it on the wall and build because the screen could be as high or low as you want as long as you stick to the vertical offset of the projector. These pull down ones though, different beast because you are confined.
Offset value is fixed. As it's mentioned above, the lens shift allows for the image to be shifted downwards by as much as 4.9".
There are no other 4K projectors with this throw range, other than UST models.

The mount height can't be helped.
But the other elements can vary in height:
Metal elements that will connect the screen casing to the ceiling, a chain or metal wire.
Lens shift.
The drop of the screen is 4.48", and it can be decreased, perhaps to 0.

If the chain/wire is 1", the casing is 3.62", and the drop is recessed. the height would be 4.62", 5" round up.
From the center of the lens to the part of the projector that will connect with the mount there are 4".
Don't think there are 1" mounts.

Find the smallest mount and adjust the rest.

Another solution is to take a metal plate larger than the projector, drill some holes in it to put the screws for the projector, and screw the plate in the ceiling. The plate and the top of the screws would be ~1" high?
That would put the lens at ~5" high.

This sub forum does not have that much visibility, try posting a question in the HT3550 thread, there are other users with experience that might have used some method to mount a setup like this:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...hread-165.html

Or a separate thread in this sub forum:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...-000-usd-msrp/
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post #25 of 37 Old 11-07-2019, 08:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Noob you've been a massive help. I've been on this like a dog on a bone since I posted this thread and think I'm ready.



Here's what I'm going to do: The TV on the wall will be unmounted and I will be installing a Elite Sable B2 110" fixed frame screen on the wall. This is the biggest screen I can do because my centre channel is huge and I don't want it on the floor so all my measurements point to 110" being my perfect fit.


I can't throw long because of the beam and all the short throw 4K projectors are not "short throw" enough for me to place the projector nice and high in front of the beam. So what I'm going to do is buy the 2150ST and throw 1080p for the next few years and hope that someone will develop a short throw 4K that has a similar throw as the 2150ST.



My semi-rough calculations are as such:


4" mount / 1" center of lens / 1.4" lens offset to top of screen = ~6.4" vertical offset total from the ceiling. The screen has a 2.75" border so I'm only losing ~3.65" from the ceiling. Horizontal screen is just under 60" so I'll still have to trim the centre channel stand but I'm looking REALLY good for uniformity and overall placement.



Any other tips? You've been a goldmine.

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post #26 of 37 Old 11-07-2019, 08:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Even better, here's a 3" mount...


https://www.bestbuy.ca/en-ca/product...black/13029456
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post #27 of 37 Old 11-07-2019, 10:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by copene View Post
Noob you've been a massive help. I've been on this like a dog on a bone since I posted this thread and think I'm ready.



Here's what I'm going to do: The TV on the wall will be unmounted and I will be installing a Elite Sable B2 110" fixed frame screen on the wall. This is the biggest screen I can do because my centre channel is huge and I don't want it on the floor so all my measurements point to 110" being my perfect fit.


I can't throw long because of the beam and all the short throw 4K projectors are not "short throw" enough for me to place the projector nice and high in front of the beam. So what I'm going to do is buy the 2150ST and throw 1080p for the next few years and hope that someone will develop a short throw 4K that has a similar throw as the 2150ST.



My semi-rough calculations are as such:


4" mount / 1" center of lens / 1.4" lens offset to top of screen = ~6.4" vertical offset total from the ceiling. The screen has a 2.75" border so I'm only losing ~3.65" from the ceiling. Horizontal screen is just under 60" so I'll still have to trim the centre channel stand but I'm looking REALLY good for uniformity and overall placement.



Any other tips? You've been a goldmine.
The HT2150ST has different specifications:

No lens shift.

Offset is 102.5%±2.5%.
For an 110" screen 16:9 format the offset would be 1.3475" ± 1.3475". The ± could be an issue since it can vary in total 2.695‬".
Better mount the screen after the projector.

The distance from the center of the lens to the bottom of the projector (mount location) is 2.076".

Mount ("?) + 2.076" + 1.3475"=3.4235" to which the variation is applied ± 1.3475".

With a mount of 4" that would be 7.4235‬" where the screen would start.

That Kanto mount is not 3":
can be extended between 9” and 12” from the ceiling.


For full dimensions link to the manual, page 53:
https://www.projectorcentral.com/pdf...anual_9597.pdf

There might also be some variation in the specification of all products (screen, projector, mount), may not be exact to the mm.

LE: As mentioned above, perhaps post a question/thread in the links above, there may be mount suggestions for such a setup.

LE2: in the manual the offset is 2.48%, no mention of the ± variation.

All measurements are approximate and may vary from the actual sizes. If you want a permanent installation of the projector, we recommend that you use the actual projector to physically test the projection size, distance, and the projector's optical characteristics prior to the installation. This helps you determine the exact mounting position which best suits your installation.

Last edited by noob00224; 11-07-2019 at 10:17 AM.
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post #28 of 37 Old 11-07-2019, 10:35 AM - Thread Starter
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The mount I mentioned is 3". It can be extended to either 9" or 12".


• Measures 3” (7.5 cm) from the ceiling to the top of the projector, can extend 9” to 12” (23 to 30 cm) using supplied extension tubes



Where does the 102.5% offset come from and what exactly does that mean? I didn't read that anywhere, nor is it anywhere to be found in any calculators. Just the 1.3475 vertical offset that I got from the owners manual calculations.
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post #29 of 37 Old 11-07-2019, 10:45 AM
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Quote:
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The mount I mentioned is 3". It can be extended to either 9" or 12".


• Measures 3” (7.5 cm) from the ceiling to the top of the projector, can extend 9” to 12” (23 to 30 cm) using supplied extension tubes



Where does the 102.5% offset come from and what exactly does that mean? I didn't read that anywhere, nor is it anywhere to be found in any calculators. Just the 1.3475 vertical offset that I got from the owners manual calculations.
Checked the specs, yes, that mount has 3" height.

HT2150ST specifications:
https://www.benq.com/en-us/projector...fications.html

The offset is a distance that some projectors have, which places the image higher, lower, or at the same level as the center of the lens.
When the offset value is 105%, it means that the screen will start 5% higher if it's a table placement, or 5% lower if ceiling mounted.
5% out of the height of the screen.
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post #30 of 37 Old 11-07-2019, 11:07 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm going to ceiling mount the projector in the first third of the allowed throw range, make sure it's a perfect rectangle and size then make all the markings to mount the screen. Glad to read that the screen can be slid horizontally if need to be to make up a few mm or error.



I figure if I'm in the lower third of the throw I have wiggle room back and forth a bit.


Last thing, do you measure "from the lens" literally or from the front of the case of the projector? Like the lens is an inch depressed into the case. Is that the ACTUAL start where you measure from?
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