135” screen recommendations - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 22 Old 01-01-2020, 02:59 PM - Thread Starter
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135” screen recommendations

Looking for a 135” screen for an Epson 5050UB.
Throw will be approximately 15ft.

Screen ratio will be 16:9 as primary viewing will be hosting some sporting stuff.

Will have ambient light in the room but can be controlled. Only 2 basement windows. However, Room serves as the game room if the house (ping pong and football) The lights in front of projector all in one switch and will be off when watching.

Wall where screen is I just painted Sherwin Williams Black Magic.

Narrowed so far to Cinegray 3D or 5D, Carl’s ALR.
Interested in the Dark Screen Pulsar as well but it doesn’t seem they offer over a 120”.

I’m capable of building a frame so raw material isn’t a big deal.

Advice?

Max budget $1000.
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post #2 of 22 Old 01-01-2020, 03:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mjdubs84 View Post
Looking for a 135” screen for an Epson 5050UB.
Throw will be approximately 15ft.

Screen ratio will be 16:9 as primary viewing will be hosting some sporting stuff.

Will have ambient light in the room but can be controlled. Only 2 basement windows. However, Room serves as the game room if the house (ping pong and football) The lights in front of projector all in one switch and will be off when watching.

Wall where screen is I just painted Sherwin Williams Black Magic.

Narrowed so far to Cinegray 3D or 5D, Carl’s ALR.
Interested in the Dark Screen Pulsar as well but it doesn’t seem they offer over a 120”.

I’m capable of building a frame so raw material isn’t a big deal.

Advice?

Max budget $1000.
A screen size should not be chosen until the projector has been used for a few weeks on a wall.

Seating distance?


If the main purpose is sports events, will you be watching with lights off?

So what will be the purpose/s of the setup? Sports?


With the current setup parameters the throw ratio is 1.52x. There is a good chance of hotspot on very bright/white images. You may be fine with it.
To reduce the likelihood of hotspots the projector would need to be placed further back.

Also with ALR's the one place that light must not come from is from the same direction as the projector.
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post #3 of 22 Old 01-01-2020, 03:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mjdubs84 View Post
Looking for a 135” screen for an Epson 5050UB.

Throw will be approximately 15ft.



Screen ratio will be 16:9 as primary viewing will be hosting some sporting stuff.



Will have ambient light in the room but can be controlled. Only 2 basement windows. However, Room serves as the game room if the house (ping pong and football) The lights in front of projector all in one switch and will be off when watching.



Wall where screen is I just painted Sherwin Williams Black Magic.



Narrowed so far to Cinegray 3D or 5D, Carl’s ALR.

Interested in the Dark Screen Pulsar as well but it doesn’t seem they offer over a 120”.



I’m capable of building a frame so raw material isn’t a big deal.



Advice?



Max budget $1000.
Seymour AV Glacier Gray has great viewing angles and is available for DIY. I would give them a call and explain your room conditions. Their Matinee Black is really what I would like for your room but they don't seem to offer it in DIY. I would also call Dark Energy Screens and see if they can go 135 16x9. Their Abyss screen would actually seem like the better fit for you based upon your projector and your room conditions.

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post #4 of 22 Old 01-01-2020, 03:49 PM - Thread Starter
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I can move seating back as much as I need. Max maybe 20’ back as windows start shortly past that depth. Room is 38’ deep.

Planning on 13’ from wall.

Lights (all canned) in back of room will be on while lights in front turned off almost always. They are canned as well.

Windows are on the side of the projector screen. Right of the screen while watching so windows are not opposite of the screen.

First window is 21’ back from the screen wall. (again on the right side of the screen)

Movies will be watched mostly, and since it’s in a basement will be completely black. I’ll have some blackout shades on those for watching movies during the day (weekends)

I’d say total usage is 65% tv and video games with the family.
35% movies
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post #5 of 22 Old 01-01-2020, 03:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mjdubs84 View Post
I can move seating back as much as I need. Max maybe 20’ back as windows start shortly past that depth. Room is 38’ deep.



Planning on 13’ from wall.



Lights (all canned) in back of room will be on while lights in front turned off almost always. They are canned as well.



Windows are on the side of the projector screen. Right of the screen while watching so windows are not opposite of the screen.



First window is 21’ back from the screen wall. (again on the right side of the screen)



Movies will be watched mostly, and since it’s in a basement will be completely black. I’ll have some blackout shades on those for watching movies during the day (weekends)



I’d say total usage is 65% tv and video games with the family.

35% movies
Some ALR screens excel at light rejection/absorption from the ceiling but not from the sides. Others are good for the opposite. Really best to email or call the companies you are interested in and describe your room conditions, screen size and seating distance and viewing angle.

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post #6 of 22 Old 01-01-2020, 04:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mjdubs84 View Post
I can move seating back as much as I need. Max maybe 20’ back as windows start shortly past that depth. Room is 38’ deep.

Planning on 13’ from wall.

Lights (all canned) in back of room will be on while lights in front turned off almost always. They are canned as well.

Windows are on the side of the projector screen. Right of the screen while watching so windows are not opposite of the screen.

First window is 21’ back from the screen wall. (again on the right side of the screen)

Movies will be watched mostly, and since it’s in a basement will be completely black. I’ll have some blackout shades on those for watching movies during the day (weekends)

I’d say total usage is 65% tv and video games with the family.
35% movies

For the hotspot only the projector would need to be moved further back, not the seating.

A very general ratio (for seating) is 10-12" in diagonal for every foot in distance.
With 13' that would be 130-156". But individual preferences can vary.

The 5050UB is bright enough to be placed further back.
The ALR's mentioned here and others might raise the black level of the projector, especially if placed at 1.52x throw.
The projector could be tested at different distances to see where the hotspot stops being visible. Somewhere over 1.8x to 2.0x should be fine though.


With this setup a plain white screen would work well. It will not have the ALR properties of the ALR screens, but it will still be more than acceptable.
The advantage is that with the lights off, the black level will not be affected.
The projector could be placed as close as possible in this case, or somewhere where the fan noise is not bothersome, if it is at all.

Some users claim that ALR screens, regardless at what throw the projector is used, degrade the quality of the image (besides raising the black level). I can't attest to that, but they may be correct.


So you can choose between an ALR with potential image degradation and a white screen that will not have the ALR properties.

For a white screen raw from Silver Ticket/Elite/Carl's would do.
You could find a 1.3 gain white screen that would have some ALR properties.
Samples are available from many companies and tested beforehand.

Another option would be paints with ALR properties. They will increase the brightness of the bright parts and make the dark parts darker, at the same time. No hotspot. It's not complicated, but it does require painting. The mix can be customized for your particular setup. It's claimed that the result is equal to that of very expensive screens.
This would be the best option if painting can be done. While the wall can be painted, a simple white PVC screen would be better.
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post #7 of 22 Old 01-01-2020, 04:40 PM
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The decision is yours due to two factors:
1. I don't know how much ambient light will be in the room.
2. Personal preference.

If I had a 5050UB I would want to get the best blacks, which would exclude an ALR screen. Even though movie watching is only 35%, PQ in the dark would make it worth it. With some lights on it would probably be fine. Depends what content is being watched. Bright content will fare better than images with dark parts, which will be the most affected.
I recommend you get samples, or go for the paint option.
Additionally, to get the best blacks this projector can provide I would use black velvet around the area of the screen, 5' or so, including ceiling, and a black carpet on the floor.
If you're continuing chasing blacks, a B stock JVC NX5 can be had for around the price of the 5050UB. It will not be as bright as the 5050 and 130" will be the limit, but with a treated room and only some lights in the viewing area it should be fine. @skylarlove1999 might disagree. The JVC also has a better HDR tone mapper.
Personally I would make this sacrifice for the superior PQ, but it's YOUR setup.
A 1.3 gain white screen or the paint option would make the JVC setup a bit brighter.



LE:
The ALR's mentioned in the first post would have the most ambient light rejecting properties, but while they may be better than a white screen, they would be overkill for that room.
Besides the paint, an intermediary solution would be High Contrast Grey from Silver Ticket. It's got 0.67 gain, but it's not just a grey screen, it has ALR properties (negative gain ALR screens exist).
This fabric will improve the black level and help fight ambient light. The JVC at 135" might be too dim, but the 5050UB can do it. The probability of hotspot will be very low.


LE2:
I've mentioned that it's a decision that you have to take, but since you haven't seen what a projector with good blacks looks like it may be difficult.
I also assume this is the first projector setup.
Another recommendation would be to get a budget projector and use it on a wall for about a year or so, to get familiar with projection basics. It may be a safer alternative then jumping into ALR's and high end Epsons/JVCs.
The Epson HC3100/3700 would be great units, for cheaper but with worse black levels the HC1040 and HC1060.

Last edited by noob00224; 01-01-2020 at 05:37 PM.
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post #8 of 22 Old 01-01-2020, 06:59 PM - Thread Starter
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The Epson 5050UB is already purchased. I was under the impression the gray type screens gave better blacks. I don’t necessarily have to have an ALR screen but want really good PQ and black levels. I have nice televisions that have some good black levels so I wanted a projector that could produce that. I’m not against a white screen if that will get me the result I want.
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post #9 of 22 Old 01-01-2020, 07:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mjdubs84 View Post
The Epson 5050UB is already purchased. I was under the impression the gray type screens gave better blacks. I don’t necessarily have to have an ALR screen but want really good PQ and black levels. I have nice televisions that have some good black levels so I wanted a projector that could produce that. I’m not against a white screen if that will get me the result I want.
Not OLED level blacks, but the 5050UB can still produce good blacks.

A grey screen can look the same as a white screen if the brightness is increased to compensate for the negative gain (of the grey screen). This improves black level by reducing cross reflection.
If the brightness is not increased the entire image is darkened, making the blacks darker, but also the top white and brightest colors.

I'm not entirely sure how the black level on the ALR's mentioned in the first post will be compared to the other screens. Others that have tested ALR's have claimed that it raises the black level. On my setup it definitely does since it has a hotspot.

So choose between ALR screens for better black levels with ambient light, and non ALR screens (ST High Contrast included here) for better black levels with lights off. With lights on the blacks will be grey either way, just that the ALR will handle ambient light better.

I suggest you get samples.
As I mentioned before, the paint option would be the best.
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post #10 of 22 Old 01-01-2020, 07:39 PM - Thread Starter
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What paint mixes do you recommend?

Would you recommend buying a white screen and painting it?
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post #11 of 22 Old 01-01-2020, 07:47 PM
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[quote=Mjdubs84;59033896]What paint mixes do you recommend?



Would you recommend buying a white screen and painting it?[/quote @MississippiMan is the man to talk to about painted screens. I have seen the results and they are quite impressive.

http://www.invisiblestereo.com/html/..._products.html

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post #12 of 22 Old 01-01-2020, 08:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mjdubs84 View Post
What paint mixes do you recommend?

Would you recommend buying a white screen and painting it?
The most popular mix is called Silver Fire. @MississippiMan is who you should be talking to.
Black Flame is the commercialized version of SF. SF is an open source version that can be customized.
MM recommends a smooth white PVC screen to be painted on, Carl's White for instance.

This is the SF thread:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-d...-2-thread.html
However MM recommends to open a new thread with your setup here:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-diy-screen-section/
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post #13 of 22 Old 01-01-2020, 08:45 PM
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Every Screen is a painted application...most are directly on Drywall.

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After some more research I’m more confused than when I started.

My projector plugs and conduit for the HDMI and Ethernet to power my Roku is all done in the ceiling at 15’ back.

Based off what I now know it seems that if I want a 125-130 inch screen that a ALR type screen will be a nightmare with hot spotting as throw ratio would be 1.44x on a 125 inch, 1.38 on a 130 inch screen.

Seems like I’d need to move projector way back to 20-22 feet to get a 1.8x throw.

Problem is that my Ethernet runs would. Is be short. Also just finished it a couple weeks ago so to cut up the ceiling isn’t really ideal. And I’d have to re purchase another fiber HDMI. All together that’s some more cash.

So I’m now leaning at a gray screen to help. Thinking a Seymour Glacier Gray may be the ticket,

Correct me if I’m mistaken though....a flat gray screen like this will not have hot spots and would allow the larger screen. While it may not block as much ambient light, it’s allow a more uniform picture but sacrifice some washout during the day.

Thoughts?
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post #15 of 22 Old 01-05-2020, 01:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mjdubs84 View Post

Correct me if I’m mistaken though....a flat gray screen like this will not have hot spots and would allow the larger screen. While it may not block as much ambient light, it’s allow a more uniform picture but sacrifice some washout during the day.

Thoughts?
Yes.

Not sure about the Glacier, but the ST HC grey has some ALR properties, which would slightly improve resistance to ambient light, in the dark and during the day. It won't have a hotspot.

Samples:
https://www.silverticketproducts.com...terial-samples
http://www.seymourav.com/store.asp
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post #16 of 22 Old 01-05-2020, 02:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mjdubs84 View Post
After some more research I’m more confused than when I started.

My projector plugs and conduit for the HDMI and Ethernet to power my Roku is all done in the ceiling at 15’ back.

Based off what I now know it seems that if I want a 125-130 inch screen that a ALR type screen will be a nightmare with hot spotting as throw ratio would be 1.44x on a 125 inch, 1.38 on a 130 inch screen.

Thoughts?

Do as I have suggested and you'll sleep like a baby...after your done watching the Movie, of course.


Look at every image I posted...especially the ones in considerable ambient light. Do you see any vestige of Hot Spotting?

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post #18 of 22 Old 01-06-2020, 11:54 AM
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Seymour has a Matinee Wide ALR screen with minimal throw distance of 1.4. It should do much better than a simple gray screen in rejecting ambient light.

http://www.seymourav.com/screens.asp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avsBuddy View Post
Seymour has a Matinee Wide ALR screen with minimal throw distance of 1.4. It should do much better than a simple gray screen in rejecting ambient light.

http://www.seymourav.com/screens.asp

Op's throw would be 1.38x or 1.44x. Minimal usually still means there will be some hotspot.
How much would a fixed frame of 135" be priced at? OP's budget is 1K$.
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post #20 of 22 Old 01-06-2020, 01:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Looks like I understood throw ratio a little wrong as well. SMH. Throw ratio is based of the width of the screen as opposed to the diagonal.

On a 135” screen the width is 118” which means the throw is 1.52x

On a Dark Energy screen which maxes at 120” the width of the screen would be 105” that would put my throw ratio at 1.66x which is still just a tad short of recommended 1.6x for the Abyss screen and 1.8x for the Pulsar material.

I did talk to Seymour AV on the phone and they are going to send some samples out of their Glacier White, Glacier Gray, Matinee Black, and Matinee Wide. This option is really close to budget should I end up Matinee since size is limited there as well. Gray and White I can get the size screen I want, no hot spotting but lack the ALR properties.

I’m also in communication with Mississippi man on what the whole process of his application would look like step by step as I tend to be a bit of a perfectionist.

Have some small concerns on nailing the mudding perfectly flat and getting the paint applied perfectly smooth.

Y’all have been really helpful so far. I appreciate it.
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post #21 of 22 Old 02-10-2020, 04:21 PM
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OP, which solution did you end up going with?
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post #22 of 22 Old 02-12-2020, 07:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mjdubs84 View Post
Looking for a 135” screen for an Epson 5050UB.
Throw will be approximately 15ft.

Screen ratio will be 16:9 as primary viewing will be hosting some sporting stuff.

Will have ambient light in the room but can be controlled. Only 2 basement windows. However, Room serves as the game room if the house (ping pong and football) The lights in front of projector all in one switch and will be off when watching.

Wall where screen is I just painted Sherwin Williams Black Magic.

Narrowed so far to Cinegray 3D or 5D, Carl’s ALR.
Interested in the Dark Screen Pulsar as well but it doesn’t seem they offer over a 120”.

I’m capable of building a frame so raw material isn’t a big deal.

Advice?

Max budget $1000.

Your setup is oddly similar to the one i am finishing...

SO im definitely going to follow along here!

Take a look at my superbowl thread. https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...l#post59234018

I setup my projector temporally for the first time last night. My 6050UB was unbelievably bright and clear. Im super impressed and that's just on my navy blue wall. I don't think youre gonna need an ALR....
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