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Review/Check my proposed 2.35 screen size (CIH 170")

2K views 39 replies 8 participants last post by  rossandwendy 
#1 ·
Nothing is in stone but I wanted to check my screen size design before moving on to projector selection. I am also fully aware that as I shop for projectors I may need to change my design up a bit.

My current plan is 19'x28'x12' room, 3' behind screen for speakers so actually more like a 25' room. First row of recliners at 11' site distance, second row of recliners at 17', and final bar stool row at 21'. The bar stools are just an easy way to add seating and I am not too worried about small viewing angles from back there.

Screen: 156" x 66" (170" diag) 2.35 screen CIH design. Likely AT Center Stage XD
Size based on screen height = @11' (2.0x), @17'(3.0x), 21' (3.8x)
2.35 viewing angles = @11' (61 deg) @17'(42 deg) @21'(35 deg)

Resulting 16:9 image size = 118" x 66" (135" diag)
16:9 viewing angles = @11' (48 deg) @17'(32 deg) @21'(26 deg)

No specific "design row" but rather tried to size the screen to optimize first and second row. As mentioned, I may adjust this design depending on what projectors cost. While I think I can get reasonable projectors to get the classic 14-21 fL recommendation, it seems like the trend these days is to go bright for HDR. May need to fork out money, not worry about HDR, or swap AT screen for a more conventional screen with a high gain.
 
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#2 ·
I love the huge screen idea, as I've been projecting a 152.5 x 64 scope image, but be aware you'd need something along the lines of the sixty-thousand dollar Sony 5000 lumens projector to properly do HDR at that size on the XD material. I've been doing only blu-ray so SDR and on high lamp with a Sony 45ES it was bright enough at 152.5” wide but as the bulb ages I wish for more brightness so I have reduced my screen size lately and decreased my throw distance to pop the picture a little more.

Your first row viewing angle at 62 degrees is close to the front of the commercial theater view, it is preferred by some on this forum but others will fnd it uncomfortable/overwhelming. I would get a projector to experiment with sizes and seating distance first using a wall, even if you have to buy used and resell when done testing, before committing to the build design.

Ross
 
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#4 ·
I agree.

With his spacing as I told him the other day he is likely splitting the most common preferred seating distance (the center of a commercial theater) between his two rows. Most people want one row to be what they like best and then comprise around the rest. I told him the other day one method to make the compromise less problematic is to use upright theater seating for the second row and thus compressing the distance loss. Doing that also allows for a less high riser for those with normal ceilings and even allows for IMAX sizing of the screen if so desired. :)
 
#3 · (Edited)
That gives you 2X and 3X screen height seating distance and that is the range commonly accepted as comfortable viewing. If you can maintain 14-21 FL that should provide nice film-like viewing. Keep in mind lamp dimming and that actual calibrated lumens are most of the time lower than advertised lumens.

PS that is the same info i provided about a week ago in one of your first threads on the subject.
 
#8 ·
I sit 134" (11'2") away from a 142" wide scope screen and I wouldn't want to be any closer.

Extrapolating those figures to your screen would put me at 147" (12'3") away from your 156" screen.
I think 11' will be too close and you won't want to sit there, so you will end up in the second row and that will be a bit far away for ideal, and if you go upright seating won't be as comfortable.

So I guess you have to decide if you want that size screen and compromised seating or good seating and smaller screen.
Smaller screen lets you get two rows of good seating (with the front row in ideal position), will cost less and will be less taxing (and cheaper) on the projector.
 
#9 ·
Sitting distance is so personal. That is why a movie theater has seats front middle and back. I would never presume to tell someone how close or far away to sit from their screen. A person should test out seating distances for themselves similar to testing the chair that a person will sit in. The resolution makes a huge difference as well. Generally speaking the higher the resolution the closer you can sit because image quality is better and less of a strain on the eye to process the image. That being said some people like to sit closer some people further back.

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#10 ·
It costs about 10 bucks to test your immersion. You go to your local cinema on a day and time when you know is slow and a movie that’s not in high demand. You bring with you a small tape measure and find the seat you think you might like. During the movie take the tape measure and at arms length measure the screen width of the scope movie. Then maybe try 5 or 6 rows closer and then back 5 or 6 rows. At some point you will think this is too close it is too tall. When you find your happy seat remember that width. Go home and put a chair 11’ from the wall get out the tape measure and have your wife stick 2 pieces of tape on the wall that line up with the measurement you got at the theater. Get out of the chair and measure between those two pieces of tape and you will know what size screen is perfect for your best seat. It is just that simple.

Now put the whole 2.35 scope screen size on the wall with blue painters tape. Look at it again from 11’ and then move the chair back to 17’. Take a good look at that size then move it up to 14’ and take a gander. That’s what reclined or upright second row will look like.

6 bucks to get in the movie house and 4 bucks for a roll of blue painters tape and you will know all you need to know. :D
 
#24 ·
I use CIS - constant image size :)
In other words I have a scope screen and just project 16:9 over it so the top and bottom of the image are off the screen.
No masking, no cost, no worries about which is better etc etc.
My screen is an AT that sits 8" off the wall and everything around it is flat black so there is no reflections and you can't see the extra image off the screen.

The only minor issues are subtitles and menus can't always be seen and occasionally the 16:9 image gets cut off a bit too much (mainly 4:3 music videos). But usually you don't even notice the missing bits.
 
#32 · (Edited)
Wow, just stumbled on a few DIY painted wall threads (Biglen and @MississippiMan) with black screen paint. Aside from not being able to have the speakers behind the screen, this seems like an awesome idea and gives the ability to adjust presentation as needed. Are there any other disadvantages to this method that I am missing cause it seems like the thing to do? Is letterboxing very distracting? Why are more people not going this route?

PS: I painted my jeep so I have some decent HVLP paint guns
 
#33 ·
Wow, just stumbled on a few DIY painted wall threads (Biglen and Mississippiman) with black screen paint. Aside from not being able to have the speakers behind the screen, this seems like an awesome idea and gives the ability to adjust presentation as needed. Are there any other disadvantages to this method that I am missing cause it seems like the thing to do? Why are more people not going this route?



PS: I painted my jeep so I have some decent HVLP paint guns[/quote @MississippiMan @biglen they love it

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