Help wiring 12v trigger or up/down switch - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 17 Old 03-21-2020, 01:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Help wiring 12v trigger or up/down switch

Long story short, I don't know if my motorized screen doesn't work because of the IR remote or the screen itself, so I want to try using either 12v trigger or an up/down switch to make sure the screen itself is OK. I have a wiring diagram from the manual I just found, but no idea what type of plug to get for the up/down switch. Any ideas? I assume the 12v trigger is a mono RCA, but again not sure.





If it matters, I originally thought this was an Elunevision screen, and Elunevision support even said it was an old Luna model after seeing pictures. The manual I found doesn't say Elunevision anywhere, but there are many references to Panoview. And when I searched, I actually found the same manual, but with Optoma Panoview all over it. My best guess is that Panoview was the OEM back them for Elunevision, and then Optoma bought them out. Don't know and don't really care, other than what's relevant to getting this working.
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post #2 of 17 Old 03-21-2020, 02:24 PM - Thread Starter
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After rummaging around, I found an old audio cable with a 2.5mm TRS headphone plug on one end which fits the screen's J3 socket. The cable has red and white RCA plugs on the other end. Grounding the red signal makes the screen go down, and grounding the white signal makes the screen go up. Now I know the screen is still good, and I just have to figure out how to get the IR remote re-paired to the screen. In the meantime, I will keep trying the various Optoma Panovision codes in MyHarmony.

EDIT: Optoma Panoview GrayWolf II (DE-GW119092E) works with Harmony Hub. Still would like to know how to re-pair the original remote to the screen.

Last edited by FFWD; 03-21-2020 at 04:24 PM.
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post #3 of 17 Old 03-21-2020, 02:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Regardless of whether I get the IR remote working, I'd like to permanently install a wired switch in the wall. Does anyone know where I can get a generic one?
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post #4 of 17 Old 03-21-2020, 03:28 PM
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Sounds like a 3-way light switch would work.

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post #5 of 17 Old 03-21-2020, 04:26 PM - Thread Starter
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I thought about that, but not sure how the up/down limit switch works on these screens, so I'm concerned what would happen if someone other than I carelessly left the switch in either the up or down position.
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post #6 of 17 Old 03-21-2020, 06:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FFWD View Post
I thought about that, but not sure how the up/down limit switch works on these screens, so I'm concerned what would happen if someone other than I carelessly left the switch in either the up or down position.
The screen will have limits so when they get to max or min extension they shut off.
You can wire it with a rocker switch like this one DPDT
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DUYRE0M
You would take the + and - wires from the screen and double them so you have 2 plus and 2 minus. Then on one side you'd wire the - to the middle pin and the + to the top pin. On the other side wire the + to the middle pin and the - to the bottom pin. Now when you rock the switch up it connects two pins with one polarity and rocking it to the other side connects different 2 pins with reverse polarity.

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post #7 of 17 Old 03-21-2020, 11:28 PM
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Any Auto parts store will carry a SPDT momentary switch now that Radio Shack is belly up if you want something local.

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post #8 of 17 Old 03-22-2020, 02:17 AM
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Originally Posted by rekbones View Post
Any Auto parts store will carry a SPDT momentary switch now that Radio Shack is belly up if you want something local.
I don't think you can make this work with a SPDT switch. That has 3 prongs such as A B C where AB are connected in one position and BC are connected in the other. The problem is you need to have AB and BC connected in such a way that AB is A+ B- and BC is B+ C-. The SPDT switch would work ok with an external relay or with 2 separate motors but I don't see how you can make it work to reverse voltage on a single motor alone.

You could make it work with 2 switches, one for up and one for down. But then you risk someone hitting them at same time and probably short something. The DPDT switch is perfect for this though.

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post #9 of 17 Old 03-22-2020, 04:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
I don't think you can make this work with a SPDT switch. That has 3 prongs such as A B C where AB are connected in one position and BC are connected in the other. The problem is you need to have AB and BC connected in such a way that AB is A+ B- and BC is B+ C-. The SPDT switch would work ok with an external relay or with 2 separate motors but I don't see how you can make it work to reverse voltage on a single motor alone.

You could make it work with 2 switches, one for up and one for down. But then you risk someone hitting them at same time and probably short something. The DPDT switch is perfect for this though.
Then if he wants to go with the look of a conventional wall switch mounted in a box a 4-way switch should work also.

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post #10 of 17 Old 03-22-2020, 06:06 AM
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Poster said in the cable he had (stereo audio cable) grounding red (right channel) made screen go one way and grounding white (left channel) made it go the other. SPDT (momentary with center off) is all he needs B terminal will be ground A or C will be up or down. I am using a single motor (auto power window motor) to raise and lower my masking shade, no relays required and true I am using a DPDT to reverse the polarity with only two wires from the switch to limit switches/motor but he has three wires so only a SPDT needed.

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post #11 of 17 Old 03-22-2020, 08:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rekbones View Post
Poster said in the cable he had (stereo audio cable) grounding red (right channel) made screen go one way and grounding white (left channel) made it go the other. SPDT (momentary with center off) is all he needs B terminal will be ground A or C will be up or down...
Correct, there are only three wires going into the jack, so a momentary switch with 3 connectors sounds like the simplest solution, and if it looks like a light switch, even better.

To clarify, when I said grounded, that was in reference to the cable itself, as the wiring diagram doesn't have those details. Since there was only three wires and I didn't expect the remote switch to be powered, all I did was randomly touch things until something happened - touching the signal pin of one channel to the grounding ring of the other is what ended up working. Also, touching each channel tip to each other did nothing.
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post #12 of 17 Old 03-22-2020, 08:34 AM - Thread Starter
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So this is what I was able to find, which would be a nice large button, even better if in black to easily identify it as the screen control:

Decora Plus Rocker AC Quiet Switch, SPDT, Momentary Contact, Center OFF, 3A, 24V, Self-Grounding, Back and Side Wired, White
Manufacturer: Leviton
Manufacturer #: 56081-2W
SKU: 25184449


https://www.graybar.com/store/en/gb/...20Type:1-Pole}


Thanks so much for everyone's help!
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post #13 of 17 Old 03-22-2020, 10:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FFWD View Post
So this is what I was able to find, which would be a nice large button, even better if in black to easily identify it as the screen control:

Decora Plus Rocker AC Quiet Switch, SPDT, Momentary Contact, Center OFF, 3A, 24V, Self-Grounding, Back and Side Wired, White
Manufacturer: Leviton
Manufacturer #: 56081-2W
SKU: 25184449


https://www.graybar.com/store/en/gb/...20Type:1-Pole}


Thanks so much for everyone's help!
That's expensive and is a motor control so has internal electronics that require a 24v power source. All you need is this https://www.ebay.com/itm/SPDT-KCD1-M...MAAOSwXoxaa7W~ and cut a hole is a blank switch plate.

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post #14 of 17 Old 03-22-2020, 10:36 AM
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The question is will you be using the limit switches that are inside the screen to control your up and down position? If that is the case then it can be wired such that you won’t have to stand and hold the switch or need a center position off or momentary contact. If you need the option of stopping it midway then that is a different thing.

Bud
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post #15 of 17 Old 03-22-2020, 12:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rekbones View Post
That's expensive and is a motor control so has internal electronics that require a 24v power source. All you need is this https://www.ebay.com/itm/SPDT-KCD1-M...MAAOSwXoxaa7W~ and cut a hole is a blank switch plate.
Ah, I didn't realize that. It was the first thing that came up that looked like a normal decora light switch. I thought it was on the expensive side. I know I can easily find a small switch like the one you posted, but would rather have a large one that matches my light switches. I'll keep looking.
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post #16 of 17 Old 03-22-2020, 12:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bud16415 View Post
The question is will you be using the limit switches that are inside the screen to control your up and down position? If that is the case then it can be wired such that you won’t have to stand and hold the switch or need a center position off or momentary contact. If you need the option of stopping it midway then that is a different thing.
Yes, I'll be using the limit switches and can't forsee needing the screen to be in a partially retracted position. Now that I at least have my Harmony remote working, the wall switch is more or less a backup. If using a standard wall switch, what would happen if I have the light switch and screen in the up position, then use the remote to lower it? I guess I can pull out the ladder and test it again, but I'm in no rush.
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post #17 of 17 Old 03-22-2020, 01:14 PM
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You are correct that will be a problem and the solution of the on/off/on switch above is the best solution. Those switches need a rectangular hole to snap into and could be made from a solid blank metal box cover and then spray painted to match the room. I wouldn’t trust the plastic covers even though they would be easier to cut out.

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