Originally Posted by Iceberg62
Thanks for the reply. I could definitely go with a larger screen. I need to see how much vertical space I have above my media console. I don’t need an AT screen. I was in a local store that had an epson 5050 with a Da Lite Parallax that I thought looked really good. That made me think that maybe I wanted a ALR screen but if I can leave a few cans on (and dimmed) and still get a better picture with the projector I have then I’m up for that too. I was reading about the two glacier materials trying to decide if one of those might be a better option.
For reference, the room has:
-four cans on a dimmer that wash the screen.
-four overhead cans on a separate dimmer
-two cans in a soffit on each side of the room that are wall washers, on their own dimmer.
-led up lights in the soffit on their own dimmer
-led floor lights that go around the room built into the baseboards on their own dimmer
I would like the option to not have to be in a cave and still be able to have a watchable screen for sports, etc.
The Glacier screens are still Lambertian, or scatter type screens, so they don't offer ambient light rejection. They're still intended for as perfectly dark a room as possible. The benefit, however, is that they offer a perfectly smooth, uniform image. The more aggressive you incorporate ambient light fighting features, the further you move away from reference. It can still look very good, and we always seek to marry the perfect type of screen to the room, but like in acoustics, starting with a better room is always better. To continue the analogy in acoustics, you can go with narrow dispersion horn drivers to reduce the ambient effects (just like ALR screens), and they can sound great, but take on a character of their own.
Make sure all the lights are as spot/narrow focus as possible. Wide or flood light angles wash more light on the screen, reducing image quality. You can get a surprising amount of audience lighting without degrading the image much, if your bulb angles are narrow enough.
If you stuck with the smaller 105"w/120"d then I think the Glacier Gray would be a good choice since an Epson would have plenty of power and could benefit from having its black level improved by 20% (and a theoretical room splash contamination resistance of 36%).
If you went larger - tougher to do with a non-AT screen - then that'd start to vote for the Glacier White to keep the luminance levels up. With either screen, sports and some lights would be fine, as you can kick the Epson up to a higher output picture mode and shadow details aren't as important.
If you want to talk specs and pricing, I'd email Jon at [email protected]
or hit us up through the contact us template.