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post #3841 of 3863 Old 12-11-2019, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by elmalloc View Post
Is it easy to hang a seymour screen frame like that (from cable?) I did it with another brand screen. I wonder if I could make something to pull it out of the way when not in use and drop it back into view at night. I have a nice view of my deck/water I'd like not to block from this room if possible (hence why I was looking into what motorized drop you could do).

Actually on closer inspection he is not hanging the screen from the ceiling at all, but my thought still exists lol.
Yes, hanging eyebolts is a standard option for the Premier frame, and if you upgrade the Precision to a continuous top/bottom, at smaller sizes.

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post #3842 of 3863 Old 01-09-2020, 12:36 PM
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I have been researching for my future home theater. A lot (Too much? My wife thinks so.). I think I have a pretty solid grasp on most things, but I do have some questions about screens and Foot Lamberts.

First, let me explain my situation. I have a rain that is 175" x 189" x 92" full light controlled. The screen area is 168" x 92" due to a little cutout in the corner of the room.

I have been looking at either a 150" or 135" 16:9 screen, but I am worried about the acoustical cost of having a speaker so close to a wall. This has led me down the AT screen rabbit hole. The 150" screen would give me 9" on either side of the screen, the 135 helps a little leaving me 15" on either side.

I am planning a row of seating at about 9.5' from the screen and 16' from the screen. I don't want a lecture on "you're sitting too close to a big screen..." I like that. I went to a movie and measured the screen angle where I chose to sit - 60 degrees.

The projector that currently piques my interest is the JVC DLA-NX5. Looks like that would give me 1600ish calibrated Lumens.

So I read that a fully light controlled room is ideal with 14-16 FL. I get that. I think maybe a little higher would help in order to help the demands of HDR? But I am not expert. My frustration starts when I see things like, "low ambient light" and "high ambient light." I'll obviously have the ability to have "no ambient light" and fully comprehend what that means.

I do, however, have three kids and a (limited) social life. I can imagine using the theater room to entertain and do a Super Bowl party, or kid's birthday party, or just have friends over. Obviously I'd want SOME light for social occasions. So with lights on so people can drink beer or juice boxes and eat things and see each other, am I looking at low ambient light? How many FL do I need?

I'm figuring high bulb for lights on, low bulb for dark... Right?

I tend to think I'll need all the gain I can get for such a large screen, therefore should go with something like the XD, but the tighter weave of the UF sounds beneficial.

I know I should get samples before buying, I get it. But I need to know how much gain I need before investing in sound equipment. If I need more gain I'll but floor speakers, If 1.0 gain is enough I'll go AT with in-wall speakers. Any help is appreciated.
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post #3843 of 3863 Old 01-09-2020, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Jason Rich View Post
I have been researching for my future home theater. A lot (Too much? My wife thinks so.). I think I have a pretty solid grasp on most things, but I do have some questions about screens and Foot Lamberts.

First, let me explain my situation. I have a rain that is 175" x 189" x 92" full light controlled. The screen area is 168" x 92" due to a little cutout in the corner of the room.

I have been looking at either a 150" or 135" 16:9 screen, but I am worried about the acoustical cost of having a speaker so close to a wall. This has led me down the AT screen rabbit hole. The 150" screen would give me 9" on either side of the screen, the 135 helps a little leaving me 15" on either side.

I am planning a row of seating at about 9.5' from the screen and 16' from the screen. I don't want a lecture on "you're sitting too close to a big screen..." I like that. I went to a movie and measured the screen angle where I chose to sit - 60 degrees.

The projector that currently piques my interest is the JVC DLA-NX5. Looks like that would give me 1600ish calibrated Lumens.

So I read that a fully light controlled room is ideal with 14-16 FL. I get that. I think maybe a little higher would help in order to help the demands of HDR? But I am not expert. My frustration starts when I see things like, "low ambient light" and "high ambient light." I'll obviously have the ability to have "no ambient light" and fully comprehend what that means.

I do, however, have three kids and a (limited) social life. I can imagine using the theater room to entertain and do a Super Bowl party, or kid's birthday party, or just have friends over. Obviously I'd want SOME light for social occasions. So with lights on so people can drink beer or juice boxes and eat things and see each other, am I looking at low ambient light? How many FL do I need?

I'm figuring high bulb for lights on, low bulb for dark... Right?

I tend to think I'll need all the gain I can get for such a large screen, therefore should go with something like the XD, but the tighter weave of the UF sounds beneficial.

I know I should get samples before buying, I get it. But I need to know how much gain I need before investing in sound equipment. If I need more gain I'll but floor speakers, If 1.0 gain is enough I'll go AT with in-wall speakers. Any help is appreciated.
For some perspective, I have a JVC with similar lumen output, a 105" 2.40:1 Centerstage UF screen, and matte black ceilings, projecting from about 13 feet. For this smaller screen size with SDR content, the dark room performance is superb even in low lamp and it does not struggle for lumens. HDR is a different story, even in high lamp. It is still quite enjoyable, but the UF is a negative gain screen (0.8) and it limits HDR brightness quite a bit. Projector was calibrated by Chad B and he got all he could out of it for HDR.

You're looking at a 150" wide 16:9 screen with XD material. XD is very close to a 1.0 gain so that helps, but the size screen you're considering with that projector will probably put you in a similar situation where you will have satisfactory SDR output, but won't have awe-inspiring HDR light output. That is a lot of screen to fill. I personally think you could be completely happy with the 135" and XD material which should give you an image with better "pop" vs. the 150".

When friends are over and room lights are present, I would suspect sports or other events would still be sharp, enjoyable, and such, but don't expect to wow anyone with contrast performance or critical viewing. That's just the nature of the beast when light is present, especially with a lower light output source.

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post #3844 of 3863 Old 01-09-2020, 02:47 PM
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16:9 Masking Panels

Epson 6050 with an AT CenterStage XD; 16:9, 130" wide, 73" high. I had magnets for masking panels pre-installed. I'm less than satisfied with the gray bars top & bottom. Sometimes they're OK, sometimes not. My wife doesn't notice. I would get the dark velvet to match the frame, not the AT panels as the panels will not cover the speakers.

Trying to figure out if it's worth the $425 + $45 shipping for the masking panels. Borderline needing a step-stool to install each time. What are the thoughts from owners of such panels? Thanks.

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post #3845 of 3863 Old 01-10-2020, 05:45 AM
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Originally Posted by BIC2 View Post
Epson 6050 with an AT CenterStage XD; 16:9, 130" wide, 73" high. I had magnets for masking panels pre-installed. I'm less than satisfied with the gray bars top & bottom. Sometimes they're OK, sometimes not. My wife doesn't notice. I would get the dark velvet to match the frame, not the AT panels as the panels will not cover the speakers.



Trying to figure out if it's worth the $425 + $45 shipping for the masking panels. Borderline needing a step-stool to install each time. What are the thoughts from owners of such panels? Thanks.


I have the XD diy material with a 130”w screen and I built my own panel for the top only since I am using the 130” w for scope viewing only and going down to 110”w for 16:9 because of bulkhead issues. But I put magnets but not enough magnets to hold my masking panel so I changed it to wrap around the top of the of the screen and it comes off and on very easily and I just put in front of the screen on the floor and you don’t even notice it there since the velvet just blends in


With masking off

With it on

If you need to see the design of the masking panel I’ll post it tonight


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post #3846 of 3863 Old 01-10-2020, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Bittermidget View Post
For some perspective, I have a JVC with similar lumen output, a 105" 2.40:1 Centerstage UF screen, and matte black ceilings, projecting from about 13 feet. For this smaller screen size with SDR content, the dark room performance is superb even in low lamp and it does not struggle for lumens. HDR is a different story, even in high lamp. It is still quite enjoyable, but the UF is a negative gain screen (0.8) and it limits HDR brightness quite a bit. Projector was calibrated by Chad B and he got all he could out of it for HDR.

You're looking at a 150" wide 16:9 screen with XD material. XD is very close to a 1.0 gain so that helps, but the size screen you're considering with that projector will probably put you in a similar situation where you will have satisfactory SDR output, but won't have awe-inspiring HDR light output. That is a lot of screen to fill. I personally think you could be completely happy with the 135" and XD material which should give you an image with better "pop" vs. the 150".

When friends are over and room lights are present, I would suspect sports or other events would still be sharp, enjoyable, and such, but don't expect to wow anyone with contrast performance or critical viewing. That's just the nature of the beast when light is present, especially with a lower light output source.
BM,

Thanks for the reply, using a calculator I put in your specs, then dropped the screen gain to .6 from .8 to simulate the 25-30% light reduction of low lamp mode. The calculator spit out about 26 fL. When I use a 1 gain 135" screen in the same calculator I get 27 fL for my setup.

So... you think you could run low lamp with socializing? I'm going to design the lighting to avoid light hitting the screen with hidden LED strips and dimmable shaded lamps.

Thanks again,

Jason
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post #3847 of 3863 Old 01-10-2020, 09:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Rich View Post
BM,

Thanks for the reply, using a calculator I put in your specs, then dropped the screen gain to .6 from .8 to simulate the 25-30% light reduction of low lamp mode. The calculator spit out about 26 fL. When I use a 1 gain 135" screen in the same calculator I get 27 fL for my setup.

So... you think you could run low lamp with socializing? I'm going to design the lighting to avoid light hitting the screen with hidden LED strips and dimmable shaded lamps.

Thanks again,

Jason
Light output for SDR content shouldn't be an issue as the JVC has lumens to spare in low lamp, even after calibration. I never use high lamp with SDR, even with some indirect lighting on. If you choose XD over UF, that will also give you a noticeable boost in brightness.

My comments about light output were directed at HDR performance. Use those same calculations and compare fL to the minimum fL needed for convincing HDR and you'll see that it's an entirely different story. Having said that, I have not seen the HDR tone mapping on the new NX series, so it's possible there's improvement.

Chris at Seymour can probably give you the best advice on pairing one of these new JVC to a screen material and size for your environment since they offer JVCs with calibrations based on screen material.
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post #3848 of 3863 Old 01-10-2020, 09:54 AM
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[quote=Jason Rich;59077290]BM,



Thanks for the reply, using a calculator I put in your specs, then dropped the screen gain to .6 from .8 to simulate the 25-30% light reduction of low lamp mode. The calculator spit out about 26 fL. When I use a 1 gain 135" screen in the same calculator I get 27 fL for my setup.



So... you think you could run low lamp with socializing? I'm going to design the lighting to avoid light hitting the screen with hidden LED strips and dimmable shaded lamps.



Thanks again,



Jason[/quote @chriscmore could you possibly weigh in on this subject ? Thanks in advance if you have the time.

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post #3849 of 3863 Old 01-10-2020, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Bittermidget View Post
Light output for SDR content shouldn't be an issue as the JVC has lumens to spare in low lamp, even after calibration. I never use high lamp with SDR, even with some indirect lighting on. If you choose XD over UF, that will also give you a noticeable boost in brightness.

My comments about light output were directed at HDR performance. Use those same calculations and compare fL to the minimum fL needed for convincing HDR and you'll see that it's an entirely different story. Having said that, I have not seen the HDR tone mapping on the new NX series, so it's possible there's improvement.

Chris at Seymour can probably give you the best advice on pairing one of these new JVC to a screen material and size for your environment since they offer JVCs with calibrations based on screen material.
Thanks. I have read that the new tone mapping is quite good. I fully understand about true HDR, 1000 nits is 292 fL. I don't think I'll be generating that.. lol. It makes me feel better knowing you keep it in low with ambient light. That's my major concern.

Jason
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post #3850 of 3863 Old 01-10-2020, 10:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Rich View Post
I have been looking at either a 150" or 135" 16:9 screen, but I am worried about the acoustical cost of having a speaker so close to a wall. This has led me down the AT screen rabbit hole. The 150" screen would give me 9" on either side of the screen, the 135 helps a little leaving me 15" on either side.

I am planning a row of seating at about 9.5' from the screen and 16' from the screen. I don't want a lecture on "you're sitting too close to a big screen..." I like that. I went to a movie and measured the screen angle where I chose to sit - 60 degrees.

The projector that currently piques my interest is the JVC DLA-NX5. Looks like that would give me 1600ish calibrated Lumens.

So I read that a fully light controlled room is ideal with 14-16 FL. I get that. I think maybe a little higher would help in order to help the demands of HDR? But I am not expert. My frustration starts when I see things like, "low ambient light" and "high ambient light." I'll obviously have the ability to have "no ambient light" and fully comprehend what that means.

I do, however, have three kids and a (limited) social life. I can imagine using the theater room to entertain and do a Super Bowl party, or kid's birthday party, or just have friends over. Obviously I'd want SOME light for social occasions. So with lights on so people can drink beer or juice boxes and eat things and see each other, am I looking at low ambient light? How many FL do I need?

I'm figuring high bulb for lights on, low bulb for dark... Right?

I tend to think I'll need all the gain I can get for such a large screen, therefore should go with something like the XD, but the tighter weave of the UF sounds beneficial.

I know I should get samples before buying, I get it. But I need to know how much gain I need before investing in sound equipment. If I need more gain I'll but floor speakers, If 1.0 gain is enough I'll go AT with in-wall speakers. Any help is appreciated.
Don't feel restricted to sizes. Every screen we make is custom to order, to the 0.1" resolution. So if an image width of 134.7" perfectly covers the baffles of some in-walls, for example, just tell us and we'll scale everything accordingly. As they say, you date the projector, you marry the screen. So, let's get it perfect.

For 9.5' seating I'd definitely go with the UF, as that was what it was designed for. The reduction in gain then would vote for a smaller image in the range you're considering or perhaps the higher-brightness Epson. I would encourage you to narrow the row spacing as much as possible. While you don't need the second row's feet touching the first row's heads, minimize that space as much as reasonable. This will greatly help you get a proper experience for both rows.

Keep in mind that HDR is not a brightness format; it's a dynamic format. Because of the eye's nonlinear response, maintaining a deep black level is actually more influential to a dynamic looking image than the level of the specular highlights. Here is Kris Deering's explanation:

The UF will help with the Epson's black levels. Either projector would be able to have a "best image" calibrated mode and a "daytime" for sports or TV things that aren't as critical with the black levels. We're obviously biased toward the JVC line, but if you're maintaining your close seating and larger size range, I like the UF/Epson combo.

A huge advantage to AT screens is that you can follow best audio practices AND video practices independently. Locate the speakers where they're acoustically perfect and don't worry about the screen. It won't care. Similarly, locate the image up where it's most comfortable and size it appropriately cinematic for you, since it doesn't need to dodge any speakers. This is why we can get best demo awards is because we're optimizing each aspect of the experience instead of compromising both.

Cheers,
Chris

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post #3851 of 3863 Old 01-10-2020, 10:47 AM
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[quote=skylarlove1999;59077654]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Rich View Post
BM,



Thanks for the reply, using a calculator I put in your specs, then dropped the screen gain to .6 from .8 to simulate the 25-30% light reduction of low lamp mode. The calculator spit out about 26 fL. When I use a 1 gain 135" screen in the same calculator I get 27 fL for my setup.



So... you think you could run low lamp with socializing? I'm going to design the lighting to avoid light hitting the screen with hidden LED strips and dimmable shaded lamps.



Thanks again,



Jason[/quote @chriscmore could you possibly weigh in on this subject ? Thanks in advance if you have the time.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
I'm calibrating a NX5 to a XD screen today and will post the measurements when I finish.

Cheers,
Chris

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post #3852 of 3863 Old 01-10-2020, 11:44 AM
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[quote=chriscmore;59077992]
Quote:
Originally Posted by skylarlove1999 View Post



I'm calibrating a NX5 to a XD screen today and will post the measurements when I finish.



Cheers,

Chris
Perfect timing!!! Thanks so much!!

Sincerely
Tristan Jones

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post #3853 of 3863 Old 01-10-2020, 12:43 PM
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Don't feel restricted to sizes. Every screen we make is custom to order, to the 0.1" resolution. So if an image width of 134.7" perfectly covers the baffles of some in-walls, for example, just tell us and we'll scale everything accordingly. As they say, you date the projector, you marry the screen. So, let's get it perfect.

For 9.5' seating I'd definitely go with the UF, as that was what it was designed for. The reduction in gain then would vote for a smaller image in the range you're considering or perhaps the higher-brightness Epson. I would encourage you to narrow the row spacing as much as possible. While you don't need the second row's feet touching the first row's heads, minimize that space as much as reasonable. This will greatly help you get a proper experience for both rows.

Keep in mind that HDR is not a brightness format; it's a dynamic format. Because of the eye's nonlinear response, maintaining a deep black level is actually more influential to a dynamic looking image than the level of the specular highlights. Here is Kris Deering's explanation:

The UF will help with the Epson's black levels. Either projector would be able to have a "best image" calibrated mode and a "daytime" for sports or TV things that aren't as critical with the black levels. We're obviously biased toward the JVC line, but if you're maintaining your close seating and larger size range, I like the UF/Epson combo.

A huge advantage to AT screens is that you can follow best audio practices AND video practices independently. Locate the speakers where they're acoustically perfect and don't worry about the screen. It won't care. Similarly, locate the image up where it's most comfortable and size it appropriately cinematic for you, since it doesn't need to dodge any speakers. This is why we can get best demo awards is because we're optimizing each aspect of the experience instead of compromising both.

Cheers,
Chris
Chris,

Thank you very much for the well reasoned and lengthy reply. I am very much excited to see what your measurements are. Please include the screen size so I can scale it.

The reason I am sold on the JVC over the Epson is the native 4k at the viewing distance/screen size I am looking at. I felt that the resolution difference would be significant. Of course, I'm also an armchair quarterback here and have exactly 0% of the experience you have. Do you think that's not a valid concern?

I fully appreciate that HDR does not equal BRIGHT, but I also have read that it demands more than SDR. My theory was to get as many fL as possible because I can dial it down, but I cannot get more.

As far as getting seating as close as possible, I think I've just about squished it as much as I can. The wife and I (read wife) have determined that we'd like an informal relaxed room, couches with ottomans, that can be a bit modular to expand for when kids have birthday parties or people come over to see "the big game." I have (tried to) attached my mockup of the room layout with properly sized furniture for what we (she) picked out.

Thank you again for taking your time. I fully appreciate it. It's not every day you have someone with expertise advising you.

Jason
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post #3854 of 3863 Old 01-10-2020, 12:44 PM
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[quote=skylarlove1999;59078390]
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Originally Posted by chriscmore View Post
Perfect timing!!! Thanks so much!!

Sincerely
Tristan Jones

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Thanks for the help!
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post #3855 of 3863 Old 01-10-2020, 12:45 PM
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[quote=chriscmore;59077992]
Quote:
Originally Posted by skylarlove1999 View Post

I'm calibrating a NX5 to a XD screen today and will post the measurements when I finish.

Cheers,
Chris
So I had to make 5 posts before I could attach a picture. Here is the picture.
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post #3856 of 3863 Old 01-18-2020, 11:42 AM
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I didn't get to post before I left to go build a screen in a video studio, sorry.

I calibrated the NX5 at 115"w (16:9 panel width, not 17:9), to match the geometry of the customer and get a more relevant brightness measurement and a better adjustment of convergence. On the XD screen, it measured 32.5 fL (1677 lumens) for HDR and 19.3 fL (996 lumens) for SDR, low lamp, and for best picture. Both of these results are higher than guidelines, so taking 20% off by going to the UF material would be fine at this size. One could of course bump the SDR up to high lamp mode but SMPTE guidelines for 100% white are still around 16-17 fL, and per that Kris Deering video I posted earlier, we advocate prioritizing a reference black level first for the most dynamic looking image.

Bumping up the NX7 could give you more brightness but I'd instead recommend using BT2020 color setting for HDR and utilizing the P3 filter. You give back the brightness bump that the 7 brings, but you gain a more dynamic color saturation, which in the end makes the image look more dynamic than just torchier whites. I hate torchy whites and it's the least important aspect to the HDR standard and most misunderstood.

Anyway, to answer your other question I think the picture structure (resolution, fineness) are more important than brightness differences, which is an ever-changing aspect of video. Either one would look great, but to me the most important recommendation I have for you would be to start with the UF. You date the projector and marry the screen. The UF was designed for your room.

Oddly, your room colors will affect the image much more than whatever projector you get, so try to get the boss to approve as dark and matte a colors as possible. If the boss wants a color tone such as navy paint, then balance with something orange-y maybe in the woodwork or furniture, etc. Otherwise try for as neutral gray/black as possible.

Cheers,
Chris

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post #3857 of 3863 Old 01-18-2020, 12:02 PM
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Check out the latest AVS Home Theater of the Month, "The Beast, Unleashed." There aren't too many curved 16:9 screens out there, and while technically there isn't any reason to do it the end result is too cool. His mojo levels are at least three sexy-magics/second higher.

The rest of the room is so well thought out that it deserves to be on the shelf of AVS home theaters from which others can learn a lot of best (Beast?) practices from.

https://www.avsforum.com/home-theate...Wrsrrsncmr3_i4

Cheers,
Chris
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post #3858 of 3863 Old 01-18-2020, 12:04 PM
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[quote=chriscmore;59118600]I didn't get to post before I left to go build a screen in a video studio, sorry.



I calibrated the NX5 at 115"w (16:9 panel width, not 17:9), to match the geometry of the customer and get a more relevant brightness measurement and a better adjustment of convergence. On the XD screen, it measured 32.5 fL (1677 lumens) for HDR and 19.3 fL (996 lumens) for SDR, low lamp, and for best picture. Both of these results are higher than guidelines, so taking 20% off by going to the UF material would be fine at this size. One could of course bump the SDR up to high lamp mode but SMPTE guidelines for 100% white are still around 16-17 fL, and per that Kris Deering video I posted earlier, we advocate prioritizing a reference black level first for the most dynamic looking image.



Bumping up the NX7 could give you more brightness but I'd instead recommend using BT2020 color setting for HDR and utilizing the P3 filter. You give back the brightness bump that the 7 brings, but you gain a more dynamic color saturation, which in the end makes the image look more dynamic than just torchier whites. I hate torchy whites and it's the least important aspect to the HDR standard and most misunderstood.



Anyway, to answer your other question I think the picture structure (resolution, fineness) are more important than brightness differences, which is an ever-changing aspect of video. Either one would look great, but to me the most important recommendation I have for you would be to start with the UF. You date the projector and marry the screen. The UF was designed for your room.



Oddly, your room colors will affect the image much more than whatever projector you get, so try to get the boss to approve as dark and matte a colors as possible. If the boss wants a color tone such as navy paint, then balance with something orange-y maybe in the woodwork or furniture, etc. Otherwise try for as neutral gray/black as possible.



Cheers,

Chris[/quote @chriscmore thanks for taking the time to go into such detail regarding the JVC projectors and your screens. Actual readings along with your analysis and recommendation is greatly appreciated, especially your comments about how important the black floor is to having HDR with specular highlights instead of white torches. That really hit home for me. Thanks for the detailed explanation of HDR not being about brightness but really about a more dynamic range of colors. The filter on the NX7 certainly brings that point home as long as your room is properly treated the filter really showcases the benefit the DCI-P3 color space brings to specular highlights and shadow details. Thanks again.

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post #3859 of 3863 Old Yesterday, 12:48 PM
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Is anyone here using Seymour masking panels with the Millibel AT fabric? I would prefer to go with velvet for totally black masking, concerned that the Millibel won't look as black especially with image spillover on it, but placement of a third tower speaker would be better if my bottom mask was AT, so am considering the Millibel option.

Another thought: the tweeter and midrange drivers of my tower speaker would be above the mask anyway, so if I go with my preferred choice of velvet for the bottom mask will it be ok that 2 of the 3 woofers are covered by the velvet? I believe the crossover from midrange driver to the woofers is around 500Hz.

EDIT: I'm thinking I better stay with velvet masks so I have no regrets about the blackness all around the frame (I have a lot of velvet in the front around screen on walls, floor, ceiling). It means I'll need to set my center channel tower speaker on a 12" stand and then every driver will be above my bottom mask. Perhaps I should also put the left and right towers, which will be outside the frame, on same 12" stands to match center channel height and keep audio panning of LCR perfect at same tweeter height?

Ross
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post #3860 of 3863 Old Yesterday, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chriscmore View Post
Check out the latest AVS Home Theater of the Month, "The Beast, Unleashed." There aren't too many curved 16:9 screens out there, and while technically there isn't any reason to do it the end result is too cool. His mojo levels are at least three sexy-magics/second higher.

The rest of the room is so well thought out that it deserves to be on the shelf of AVS home theaters from which others can learn a lot of best (Beast?) practices from.

https://www.avsforum.com/home-theate...Wrsrrsncmr3_i4

Cheers,
Chris
What are the benefits of using curved screen without anamorphic lens?
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post #3861 of 3863 Old Yesterday, 02:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rossandwendy View Post
Is anyone here using Seymour masking panels with the Millibel AT fabric? I would prefer to go with velvet for totally black masking, concerned that the Millibel won't look as black especially with image spillover on it, but placement of a third tower speaker would be better if my bottom mask was AT, so am considering the Millibel option.

Another thought: the tweeter and midrange drivers of my tower speaker would be above the mask anyway, so if I go with my preferred choice of velvet for the bottom mask will it be ok that 2 of the 3 woofers are covered by the velvet? I believe the crossover from midrange driver to the woofers is around 500Hz.

EDIT: I'm thinking I better stay with velvet masks so I have no regrets about the blackness all around the frame (I have a lot of velvet in the front around screen on walls, floor, ceiling). It means I'll need to set my center channel tower speaker on a 12" stand and then every driver will be above my bottom mask. Perhaps I should also put the left and right towers, which will be outside the frame, on same 12" stands to match center channel height and keep audio panning of LCR perfect at same tweeter height?

Ross
The "non-AT" velvet is still an air-permeable fabric, which is far better than a sheet of pvc. At 500Hz on down it's quite acoustically transparent, so I like where you're headed. I agree that the speakers should be elevated a bit anyway just for better co-location with the image, or maybe the screen position lowered, but this would make maybe just the third woofer firing into the velvet. That would result in a fine response. The velvet is just considered non-AT because it would absorb the top octave a lot. The bass region is not much affected at all.

Cheers,
Chris

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post #3862 of 3863 Old Yesterday, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by avsBuddy View Post
What are the benefits of using curved screen without anamorphic lens?
It's just aesthetic. The feeling of being in a more immersive environment.

Cheers,
Chris

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post #3863 of 3863 Old Yesterday, 03:32 PM
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Good to know. Curved screens always looked interesting to me for wider seating but I thought they shouldn’t be used with normal lens due to distortion. However my coworker just had his hometheater fully installed by a reputable A.V. company and they built him a curved screen paired with stock Epson projector.
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