Official Sanyo PLV-Z3000 120Hz 1080p thread - Page 23 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #661 of 669 Old 10-23-2018, 12:11 PM
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HDMI Inputs show No Signal. This is my current issue.

I can get a signal through the component input though.

Current Steps I have tried for this issue:
  • I have changed sources, two different computers both show that it is connected to the Sanyo PLV Z-3000 in the graphics card display settings.
  • I have changed hdmi cords.
  • I have set to factory default



Original power issue preceding HDMI issue: Power to projector would not turn on. No power indicator light. ( I am listing what I did for this in case it pertains to the followup problem that still existed after the power came back on.)

Steps I tried for this issue in order:
  • Changed power cords and outlets
  • Pushed the Thermal Reset Switch
  • Tested with multimeter the fuse (was not working) and bought a replacement time-delay fuse (no ceramics avail. so got a glass one, but still a 5a 250v)
After fuse replacement the projector came on just fine like normal. Only thing I can do in the menu though is change inputs, go to settings, and information. Hitting any other button on the remote (brightness, etc.) shows a triangle warning ! on screen.

In another forum i saw someone reset to factory default to try and fix their hdmi input issue, tried that and nothing changed.

Service Manual says “No picture with HDMI (RGB digital) input source ->

Check HDMI (RGB digital) source input stage; Check IC8001 and peripheral circuit. Check sync signals SIHS and SIVS. Check 5VDDCH power supply line.

SG: TMDS data signals are converted to RGB digital signals in IC8001, and sent to IC301. Receiving video content encrypted with HDCP(High-bandwidth Digital Content Protection), IC8001 reads the HDCP keys and it allows the signal processing. Sync: SIHS and SIVS signals from IC8001 are sent to IC301.


I am not sure how to check those tbh. Any ideas or someone that had similar issue with hdmi inputs? Thanks in advance!
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post #662 of 669 Old 07-28-2019, 05:00 PM
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RGB issues

Does anyone have experience with adjusting the RGB convergence on the z3000?

I changed the bulb, cleaned the internal cavity where the bulb mounts (thin layer of film).

Now that I have a nice fresh BRIGHT bulb, I am noticing that on white lettering there is Red to the left and green to the right sides of each white letter. (Image attached)

I used to have a 3-gun Toshiba big screen YEARS ago and having to do an RGB convergence calibration was common if you moved (jostled around) the TV, and this looks similar.

Hopefully someone can help me with this.

Thank you
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post #663 of 669 Old 08-04-2019, 10:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny14o View Post
Does anyone have experience with adjusting the RGB convergence on the z3000?

I changed the bulb, cleaned the internal cavity where the bulb mounts (thin layer of film).

Now that I have a nice fresh BRIGHT bulb, I am noticing that on white lettering there is Red to the left and green to the right sides of each white letter. (Image attached)

I used to have a 3-gun Toshiba big screen YEARS ago and having to do an RGB convergence calibration was common if you moved (jostled around) the TV, and this looks similar.

Hopefully someone can help me with this.

Thank you
Hi,

I see what you mean, but on a projector you're talking about aligning 2 million pixels on 3 panels smaller than your thumb; which makes for a very difficult manual fix.

You say that this happened just because you replaced the bulb and cleaned the space where the bulb is put on? Did the bulb burst when it failed?
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post #664 of 669 Old 08-04-2019, 11:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by descalabro View Post
Hi,



I see what you mean, but on a projector you're talking about aligning 2 million pixels on 3 panels smaller than your thumb; which makes for a very difficult manual fix.



You say that this happened just because you replaced the bulb and cleaned the space where the bulb is put on? Did the bulb burst when it failed?
THANK YOU for a reply. I was afraid that due to the age of my projector, no one would care or just reply... "Buy a new one" LOL.

To answer your questions. No, the bulb was not blown. It had 4000 hrs on it and I could tell it was getting a bit dim. This is the second bulb I've replaced since buying the projector brand new and have been replacing them around 4000 hrs each time. I guess this has been an awesome projector with 12,000 hrs on the unit and only replacing the bulbs.

I noticed that RGB separation on the last bulb, so the new bulb is not the issue, I just REALLY notice it now with the new, bright bulb.

I have the service manual for the unit, but it talks about contrast adjustment on the R the G and the B polarized glass/optical filter. But I'm not sure it that is a solution solver or a problem creator for me.


I have attached the pages in the manual


It's an issue I can "live with" but if it can be fixed relatively easily, I would love to do it.


Thanks again for your response!
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Last edited by Johnny14o; 08-04-2019 at 12:14 PM.
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post #665 of 669 Old 08-04-2019, 12:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny14o View Post
THANK YOU for a reply. I was afraid that due to the age of my projector, no one would care are just reply... "Buy a new one" LOL.

To answer your questions. No, the bulb was not blown. It had 4000 hrs on it and I could tell it was getting a bit dim. This is the second bulb I've replaced since buying the projector brand new and have been replacing them around 4000 hrs each time. I guess this has been an awesome projector with 12,000 hrs on the unit and only replacing the bulbs.

I noticed that RGB separation on the last bulb, so the new bulb is not the issue, I just REALLY notice it now with the new, bright bulb.

I have the service manual for the unit, but it talks about contrast adjustment on the R the G and the B polarized glass/optical filter. But I'm not sure it that is a solution solver or a problem creator for me.


I have attached the pages in the manual


It's an issue I can "live with" but if it can be fixed relatively easily, I would love to do it.


Thanks again for your response!


You’re welcome. Unfortunately, as far as I know, aligning those LCD panels would require something other than the pages you’ve linked to. My guess is that over the years the heat made them slightly loose just enough to make a 2 pixel offset. You can try checking the rest of the device manual for “convergence” or “pixel alignment”, but I doubt there’s much about it. Tomorrow I’ll send you a test pattern to verify if this is a convergence problem or not.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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post #666 of 669 Old 08-04-2019, 07:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by descalabro View Post
You’re welcome. Unfortunately, as far as I know, aligning those LCD panels would require something other than the pages you’ve linked to. My guess is that over the years the heat made them slightly loose just enough to make a 2 pixel offset. You can try checking the rest of the device manual for “convergence” or “pixel alignment”, but I doubt there’s much about it. Tomorrow I’ll send you a test pattern to verify if this is a convergence problem or not.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I am attaching a Google Drive link to the entire manual (only took snip-its before because the entire manual is too big to upload)


Sanyo PLV-Z3000 Service Manual PDF


I looked through it and never found a specific area about convergence or pixel alignment, but they might reference this in a different way.


Thank you for sending the test pattern to confirm my issue. I look forward to trying it out.
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post #667 of 669 Old 08-04-2019, 11:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny14o View Post
I am attaching a Google Drive link to the entire manual (only took snip-its before because the entire manual is too big to upload)


Sanyo PLV-Z3000 Service Manual PDF


I looked through it and never found a specific area about convergence or pixel alignment, but they might reference this in a different way.


Thank you for sending the test pattern to confirm my issue. I look forward to trying it out.
No, there's nothing in that manual about it. The reason being that LCD panel alignment by the pixel is something they eventually do when manufacturing the projector, but not later. Situations like these are "fixed" by replacing the whole optical block.

I've attached the pattern below. Try to post a good photo of the whole screen, and then a close up of those cross-sections.

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post #668 of 669 Old 09-05-2019, 06:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by descalabro View Post
No, there's nothing in that manual about it. The reason being that LCD panel alignment by the pixel is something they eventually do when manufacturing the projector, but not later. Situations like these are "fixed" by replacing the whole optical block.



I've attached the pattern below. Try to post a good photo of the whole screen, and then a close up of those cross-sections.



Apologies for the long delay getting back on this, got wrapped up with an ongoing project.

Anyway, took a couple of pictures of the pattern you sent me.

I looked at the convergence pattern on my computer screen and compared it to the projector. It actually looks like the green (vertical) is shifted to the right. Either that, or the red and blue are shifted to the left..


Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
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post #669 of 669 Old 09-09-2019, 04:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny14o View Post
Apologies for the long delay getting back on this, got wrapped up with an ongoing project.

Anyway, took a couple of pictures of the pattern you sent me.

I looked at the convergence pattern on my computer screen and compared it to the projector. It actually looks like the green (vertical) is shifted to the right. Either that, or the red and blue are shifted to the left..


Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Hi,

unfortunately, I don't think there's anything you can do to align those panels with any certainty about the result. The slightest fraction of a movement can either make it better or worse without any real control of the outcome, not to mention you would need to hold them in place in the unlikely event of achieving a correct alignment.
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