Official JVC RS40/X3 Owners Thread - Page 345 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #10321 of 10587 Old 01-16-2018, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Luke Purcell View Post
Hi,

So you bought the x9 :-)

Sorry I haven't replied sooner as I haven't revisited this thread in a while.

I am in Brisbane and I now have an RS40 and an a black X3 I am playing with. I have the RS40 up and running and installed. I've put about 15 hours on it since repairing it.

I also now have 3 ballasts to play with. One I've had to replace all the ICs on the heat sink as the MOSFET failed short and blew the fuse on the main power supply as well as having a hole blown in the Bridge (The 20 pin IC on the ballast heat sink).

BTW I bought a 220W Mitsubishi ballast off ebay cheap ($20) that is plug compatible, but JVC must have messed with the ROM on their ballast as when you try this one it fires the lamp 3 times then the projector stops with the same error.

I'm slowly learning what looks good on these ballasts and what doesn't. I've probably spent more on repairing the existing ballasts than just replacing them. The bridge IC itself is about $20 AUD.

I've done the cap fix on the IR board on both projectors and my plan is to get the X3 working and sell it to pay for my costs in buying and repairing both projectors.

There is something odd going on with the RS40 though. When I first turn everything on the colours are off and I have to power off and on the Onkyo receiver to get it displaying properly. I have set a delay in powering on the projector in the Logitech remote but have yet to try it.

Also I am trying feeding it SBS and Top/Bottom 3D from a Popcorn Hour VTEN and it doesn't seem to detect the 3d signal.

Playing a 3D bluray from a PS3 works fine though.
Background: I am an Electronics Engineer trained in design and repair of analog and digital electronics. I believe these ballasts to be very dangerous. From what I can gather, they need to ignite the lamps with a high voltage arc of several kV. After that, the arc is almost a dead short, drawing tens of amps until the pressure in the lamp builds up.

Human skin has quite high resistance, but having played with high voltage before, I can say the arc will easily break the insulating dry skin, and cause a conduction path to your bloodstream. Blood is quite conductive, being mostly water, with dissolved electrolytes (and for me, the major food groups - chocolate, beer, fried chicken and potato chips). Coupled with the tens of amps from a mains power supply, I think it can easily kill you. Please be careful.

I stand far away (arms held this far apart). And use the remote to power it up.

I have got both the X9s working. I got two of them based on the balance of probability that they won't have the same fault. Anyhow, both ballasts were bad.

I did crudely draw out the schematic, and it's quite simple. There were two faults, both on the low voltage side. One had a bad reverse buck converter IC, which took out the current limit resistor. Fortunately, the micro controller on the daughterboard was fine. The other had a bad SMPS converter IC.

Roughly:

1) DC 380V -> LV Electronics (17V and 5V) -> MCU and SMPS controller on daughterboard
2) SMPS controller -> Isolation transformer -> MOSFET -> DC2 Rail (I didn't measure, but I imagine around 60-100V)
3) DC2 Rail -> Sanken H Bridge chip (the 20 pin on the heatsink)
4) MCU -> Controls Sanken H Bridge
5) MCU measures DC2 rail as well and input 380V DC

I did sniff the protocol with a logic analyser. I thought it would be very complicated from what I read on the net, but as it turns out, the communications are very rudimentary. In fact, there's hardly any! No serial protocol, no chit chat, no query of lamp hours, or power or anything!

Looking at the waveforms, the JVC sends a 'high' to power on the ballast. The ballast should respond with a high for about 5.5s then low.

From then on, there is mostly no more communication. The tricky part is during projection, the JVC sends a continuous signal, IIRC it was around 200 Hz. It's continuous.

When you power down, then there are several breaks in the 200 Hz signal, something like 5-6 breaks. That signals the ballast to turn the lamp off. The ballast acknowledges by bringing the signal 'high', and turns the lamp off. After that, you have 60 seconds of cool down, and all power is removed.

On the X9, the 380 VDC is also removed in standby.

Seeing that I have both working now, the motivation of trying another ballast isn't really there. I am worried that in the long term, this ballast will be unrepairable. The Sanken chip is no longer manufactured. Other ballasts use discrete MOSFETs so that's always repairable. If you have a ballast that you want to shoot my way for research, I think it's easy enough to build a bridge board.

Basically you need a translator, JVC <-> translator <-> 3rd party ballast.

Something like a $3 arduino board and some software should do it. It would help if you knew how the 3rd party ballast works though.

Regards,

Alex
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post #10322 of 10587 Old 01-16-2018, 08:48 PM
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Years ago I used to repair Wyse terminals :-) Also had a couple of NEC CRT projectors so I know the risks of HV thanks anyway.

So the Sanken H - Bridge is out of production. That explains why it is so pricey. Anyway a friend of mine decided to have a poke around with a multimeter while that ballast was on and shorted the 200V rail on the MOSFET to the LV side so I am pretty sure that ballast is a write off.

I was hoping the plug compatible Mitsubishi ballast would just work and be more reliable, and it does light the lamp for a few seconds but obviously doesn't send the correct "I'm working" signal to the DD SUB PWB. The Mitsubishi ballast uses four FETS as the bridge that don't even require a heat sink.

BTW all these projector ballasts seem to have originated from an OSRAM ballast then evolved from there.

None of my three ballast had bad octocouplers, resistors, or the LNK363DN on the reverse side.
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post #10323 of 10587 Old 01-20-2018, 08:50 PM
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When powering on my projector, I get two red lights and a blinking lamp light. The description in the manual isn't very helpful. Is there a way to test if it's the lamp? It opens the lens cover and then sits there for a minute or so before the indicator lights come on. No fan or lamp comes on at all. I can't shut it off either, I just have to unplug it. I'm thinking of buying a cheap lamp to see if that does the trick. I'd rather not buy a fancy lamp if the lamp isn't the problem.
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post #10324 of 10587 Old 01-20-2018, 08:56 PM
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It's not the lamp... Balast most likely. As it looks like they die on all of them... Sooner or later...
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post #10325 of 10587 Old 01-21-2018, 05:58 AM
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It's not the lamp... Balast most likely. As it looks like they die on all of them... Sooner or later...
Thanks. Def not what I wanted to hear...
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post #10326 of 10587 Old 01-21-2018, 06:29 AM
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It's not to expensive to fix, I paid 800CAD in JVC authorized service. That includes part, labour and tax
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post #10327 of 10587 Old 01-21-2018, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sassuki View Post
When powering on my projector, I get two red lights and a blinking lamp light. The description in the manual isn't very helpful. Is there a way to test if it's the lamp? It opens the lens cover and then sits there for a minute or so before the indicator lights come on. No fan or lamp comes on at all. I can't shut it off either, I just have to unplug it. I'm thinking of buying a cheap lamp to see if that does the trick. I'd rather not buy a fancy lamp if the lamp isn't the problem.
I believe mine has the same flashing sequence. I have an earlier post, maybe on this page, that describes my flashing. I think mine did the same thing. It opened the lens cover, flashed the lights after about a minute, and then would not turn off. I am sending it to an EE friend shortly who is going to try to debug the problem. Hopefully it will be something as simple as needing a new ballast.

Jack
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post #10328 of 10587 Old 01-21-2018, 02:57 PM
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If the lamp light only flashes the code a few times and stops it still can be the lamp. If it keeps flashing forever it is the ballast.
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post #10329 of 10587 Old 01-21-2018, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luke Purcell View Post
If the lamp light only flashes the code a few times and stops it still can be the lamp. If it keeps flashing forever it is the ballast.
I just re-tried the projector and the flashing is covered in the manual. Mine is the last example on Pg 17. Orange flashing in the middle LED and red constant in the right LED. Also the left LED is flashing Red which the diagram says is Standby during cool down. The first confirmation reason shown in the right hand column is "Check than an impact shock has not occured during operation". When the RS40 went into the moving van it had been working. It moved 400 miles and when I unpacked it and set it up it did the flashing described above. So obviously(probably) it was impacted when going into or out of the van. But the manual doesn't describe any action besides call an expert for repair.

Any advice on something I could try?

Jack
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post #10330 of 10587 Old 01-22-2018, 05:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luke Purcell View Post
If the lamp light only flashes the code a few times and stops it still can be the lamp. If it keeps flashing forever it is the ballast.
My lamp light flashes indefinitely with the other two red ones solid.
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post #10331 of 10587 Old 01-22-2018, 05:33 PM
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Guys, check the manual and what it says for that pattern.
And then write it here.
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post #10332 of 10587 Old 01-23-2018, 10:39 PM
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I just re-tried the projector and the flashing is covered in the manual. Mine is the last example on Pg 17. Orange flashing in the middle LED and red constant in the right LED. Also the left LED is flashing Red which the diagram says is Standby during cool down. The first confirmation reason shown in the right hand column is "Check than an impact shock has not occured during operation". When the RS40 went into the moving van it had been working. It moved 400 miles and when I unpacked it and set it up it did the flashing described above. So obviously(probably) it was impacted when going into or out of the van. But the manual doesn't describe any action besides call an expert for repair.

Any advice on something I could try?

Have you had a look at the bulb? Maybe it is physically damaged. If the bulb itself isn't broken try reseating it.
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post #10333 of 10587 Old 01-23-2018, 10:50 PM
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Have you had a look at the bulb? Maybe it is physically damaged. If the bulb itself isn't broken try reseating it.
If the projector was damaged in professional transit maybe it is covered by insurance?
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post #10334 of 10587 Old 01-24-2018, 07:17 AM
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If the projector was damaged in professional transit maybe it is covered by insurance?
Had a deductible that was too high.

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post #10335 of 10587 Old 01-24-2018, 07:24 AM
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It would of been still cheaper then what ur gonna pay now for repair
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post #10336 of 10587 Old 01-24-2018, 07:46 AM
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It would of been still cheaper then what ur gonna pay now for repair
I have a friend who is going to take a shot at fixing it. If he can't figure it out it goes to the dumper.

Jack
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post #10337 of 10587 Old 01-24-2018, 08:06 AM
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Is he a JVC trained technician?
Good luck with repair.
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post #10338 of 10587 Old 01-28-2018, 09:04 PM
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A quick question, I've discovered that my Popcorn Hour VTen is doing a much better job of 3d than my PS3 or PS4.

I tried a frame packed ISO on the Popcorn Hour and it looks really good but does have a small amount of crosstalk at a particular "depth". Playing a 3D BD on a PS3 or PS4 gives epic amounts of crosstalk, as in totally unusable with optical media.

I suspect for 3D to work properly on this projector it has to be installed in a sweet spot of distance to screen and size of screen.

I noticed the later JVC models have a Parallax adjustment. Does the latest FW patch for the RS40 give you this function as well?
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post #10339 of 10587 Old 01-29-2018, 06:04 PM
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Hey guys, just want to ask. I have a chance t buy JVC DLA-RS40 Projector for $400 barely used. It is good way to go or should I be happier with something like Sony 45es. I want to get my first PJ and I did try Sony 45es and I love PQ. I just got tired of spending big $$$ on big 4k TV's. I will have it in livingroom for evening movies and motorized screen down from ceiling 100".
Thanks

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post #10340 of 10587 Old 01-29-2018, 06:11 PM
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Owning a projector is not cheap, especially a used one.
Watching in living room, not a perfect environment, and unless you will have pitch black room, you might be disappointed.



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post #10341 of 10587 Old 01-29-2018, 06:20 PM
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Hey guys, just want to ask. I have a chance t buy JVC DLA-RS40 Projector for $400 barely used. It is good way to go or should I be happier with something like Sony 45es. I want to get my first PJ and I did try Sony 45es and I love PQ. I just got tired of spending big $$$ on big 4k TV's. I will have it in livingroom for evening movies and motorized screen down from ceiling 100".
Thanks
It sounds like a pretty good deal for $400, better if you can see it first, but if it's online then still decent.
I think the PQ of the RS-40 should be better than the Sony 45es, at least in some respects.

The REAL aftermarket Philips lamps for this projector are only $73 right now, so the operational costs are low. These are the same quality as the regular original one, I have verified it over-time and usage. However, the ballast in the RS-40 and RS-45 is not properly optimized.

The lamps only last about 1500 to 3000 hours though (At least for me), the problem is they could explode if you run them too hard or too long. The closer to 3000 hours you are, probably the more likely it's going to explode.

That said, I haven't seen ALL that many users report exploding lamps, but I had 2 in a row, 1200 on first, 2800 on second.
Total hrs AVG 2000 across 2 lamps. On third lamp, at 1000 hours, still going well. Both exploded lamps were ORIGINAL JVC (not aftermarket)...

I would NOT say this is the most reliable used projector, but it's better than Dust Blobs, and the image still holds up to most modern projectors very well.
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post #10342 of 10587 Old 01-29-2018, 06:28 PM
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Quote:
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Owning a projector is not cheap, especially a used one.
Watching in living room, not a perfect environment, and unless you will have pitch black room, you might be disappointed.


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Well I did try Sony 45es in livingroom and did great job. I know Sony is probably brighter 1800lumens vs 1300 JVC. I know living room for PJ is not the best option but after I try it I know it will works. I really have time to watch movie only at late evening or night so light is not issue.

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It sounds like a pretty good deal for $400, better if you can see it first, but if it's online then still decent.
I think the PQ of the RS-40 should be better than the Sony 45es, at least in some respects.

The lamps are only $73 right now, so the operational costs are low.

The lamps only last about 1500 hours though (At least for me), the problem is they could explode if you run them too hard or too long.
Wow I didn't know it is even possible. Well if new lamp is onl $73 I can always change it around 1000 hours to prevent explode. If lamp explode is PJ distroyed as well or it can be reused.

Seller is local guy so I will go and check it in action. He just got some real 4K PJ.

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post #10343 of 10587 Old 01-29-2018, 06:32 PM
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@coderguy so do you think it is worth to give it a chance? or better to spend more $$$ and get newer model. For $400 I guess it is not much worry about. I can always sell it and most $$$ back.

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post #10344 of 10587 Old 01-29-2018, 06:32 PM
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Well I did try Sony 45es in livingroom and did great job. I know Sony is probably brighter 1800lumens vs 1300 JVC. I know living room for PJ is not the best option but after I try it I know it will works. I really have time to watch movie only at late evening or night so light is not issue.



Wow I didn't know it is even possible. Well if new lamp is onl $73 I can always change it around 1000 hours to prevent explode. If lamp explode is PJ distroyed as well or it can be reused.

Seller is local guy so I will go and check it in action. He just got some real 4K PJ.
The fact you can see it in person first, makes this a GREAT not a good deal. That makes all the difference and peace of mind, because you know he probably has nothing to hide.

It can hurt the projector in rare instances, but most of the time it does not hurt the projector.

It exposes you to some mercury depending how close you sit to the projector. However, I've read that the amount you are exposed to is minuscule. Though in my deductive conclusion, the problem is scientists cannot really be sure what effects rare chemical exposures (even at small levels) may have, since the amount of people exposed that are studied are mostly only in large exposures.

When a lamp blows up, leave the room for at least an hour or so, or even the entire house if that makes you feel better. Let the projector sit for a day or two, then clean it up carefully with a credit card and try to wear one of those particulate filtered masks if you have one.

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post #10345 of 10587 Old 01-29-2018, 06:38 PM
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@coderguy so do you think it is worth to give it a chance? or better to spend more $$$ and get newer model. For $400 I guess it is not much worry about. I can always sell it and most $$$ back.
I think it's worth it, of course a newer model would be better, but the new JVC lamps cost $600. That's what is keeping me from doing it, that and I want to go to a Laser projector if I can hold out long enough.

Heck, I still own a JVC RS-45 and it is very good compared to other projectors I've seen. The more expensive JVC's are better, but the picture on this thing is way way better than any sub-$3000 MSRP projector, that's what I think.

The RS-40 and RS-45 are basically the same projector from my understanding, same lamp. The difference I think is lens memory and probably updated color tables / firmware mostly.

I would rather have a JVC RS-45 than many other projectors (even the sub-$3k DLP's that have 4k), simply because I am a fan of good contrast, and the RS-40/45 is pretty good.

Contrast is more important to me than 4k Resolution, but some may differ, especially heavy gamers. Keep in mind this thing does have some gaming lag (but it's still playable for regular games, just nothing too reactive).

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post #10346 of 10587 Old 01-29-2018, 06:38 PM
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The fact you can see it in person first, makes this a GREAT not a good deal. That makes all the difference and peace of mind, because you know he probably has nothing to hide.

It can hurt the projector in rare instances, but most of the time it does not hurt the projector.

It exposes you to some mercury depending how close you sit to the projector. However, I've read that the amount you are exposed to is minuscule. Though in my deductive conclusion, the problem is scientists cannot really be sure what effects rare chemical exposures (even at small levels) may have, since the amount of people exposed that are studied are mostly only in large exposures.

When a lamp blows up, leave the room for at least an hour or so, or even the entire house if that makes you feel better. Let the projector sit for a day or two, then clean it up carefully with a credit card and try to wear one of those particulate filtered masks if you have one.
Man, the way how you described you almost want to see it explode . No just kidding ok great info good to know what to do if.... I really didn't have much experiance with those lamps except for my old Sony RPTV and I never had issue with it after 10 years before I sold it.

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post #10347 of 10587 Old 01-29-2018, 06:41 PM
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Man, the way how you described you almost want to see it explode . No just kidding ok great info good to know what to do if.... I really didn't have much experiance with those lamps except for my old Sony RPTV and I never had issue with it after 10 years before I sold it.
Yup, I used to own the Sony a3000 I think it was. Never had the green blob issue that some got. I owned the final revision of that TV, that was my LAST TV I ever bought other than some smaller TV's.

I do have an el-cheapo Westinghouse in the Guest Room. But, I have projectors in 2 rooms, I just figure what's the point in watching a tiny image.
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Originally Posted by coderguy View Post
I think it's worth it, of course a newer model would be better, but the new JVC lamps cost $600. That's what is keeping me from doing it, that and I want to go to a Laser projector if I can hold out long enough.

Heck, I still own a JVC RS-45 and it is very good compared to other projectors I've seen. The more expensive JVC's are better, but the picture on this thing is way way better than any sub-$3000 MSRP projector, that's what I think.

The RS-40 and RS-45 are basically the same projector from my understanding, same lamp. The difference I think is lens memory and probably updated color tables / firmware mostly.

I would rather have a JVC RS-45 than many other projectors (even the sub-$3k DLP's that have 4k), simply because I am a fan of good contrast, and the RS-40/45 is pretty good.

Contrast is more important to me than 4k Resolution, but some may differ, especially heavy gamers. Keep in mind this thing does have some gaming lag (but it's still playable for regular games, just nothing too reactive).
I really want it for just watching a movie and sports and sometimes playing soccer on PS3( ones a months or so). I'm not a gamer at all. I just want for my set up what I believe is pretty good what WOW factor on screen. I was ready to buy Sony XBR75X940E last year and after research and trying I decide to get same screen but 65" and save myself almost $2k. So here I'm now.

Denon X6200W
Klipsch RF-7II's, RC-64II, RB-81II's, RS-62II's
SVS 2x PC12-Pluses, Emotiva XPA-200
Sony XBR65X930E , Oppo 203
Apple 4K TV, Mac mini, Sony UBP-X800, PS3
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post #10349 of 10587 Old 01-29-2018, 07:50 PM
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Now when someone mentioned, WHERE. Can I buy original lamp for $73 ??!! I'll order three right away and change them monthly

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post #10350 of 10587 Old 01-29-2018, 07:51 PM
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Where please can I buy those lamps for 73?
Thanks!

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