Official JVC X30 / RS45 owner's thread! - Page 157 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4681 of 4922 Old 08-26-2016, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Adam-DiVine View Post
About 2-300 maybe. The company is perfectly willing to swap it out, I just wanted to see if everyone thought it was the bulb before I go through the trouble. Anyone think it could be the projector?
http://www3.jvckenwood.com/english/d...rs4800_update/
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post #4682 of 4922 Old 09-04-2016, 10:19 PM
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So, last night my RS45 stopped outputting an image. The lamp light was blinking two blink sets (blink-blink, pause, blink-blink, pause, etc.). If I unplugged it, and plugged it back in, it would work for 5 mintues or so. Now it won't work at all. The lamp has 800 hours on it. Would y'all suspect the lamp? ballast? If not, does anybody know a reputable shop in Seattle/Redmond, WA?
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post #4683 of 4922 Old 09-05-2016, 01:26 AM
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So, last night my RS45 stopped outputting an image. The lamp light was blinking two blink sets (blink-blink, pause, blink-blink, pause, etc.). If I unplugged it, and plugged it back in, it would work for 5 mintues or so. Now it won't work at all. The lamp has 800 hours on it. Would y'all suspect the lamp? ballast? If not, does anybody know a reputable shop in Seattle/Redmond, WA?
Are You yesterday on ixbt asked?
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post #4684 of 4922 Old 09-05-2016, 01:43 AM
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I want to buy one, but have a question

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Originally Posted by nickbuol View Post
Yeah, looks like their prices are up a little bit, $67 currently, but for those willing to try one out, still a bargain. I just replaced my original bulb about 2 weeks ago about it blew. The replacement was a newer version actual JVC bulb (from JVC when I complained about bulb dimming back in 2012), and WOW... The new bulb is so much brighter, and thus better contrast too in low lamp mode than the old bulb was in high lamp mode (which I had to resort to in order to really enjoy the image at all), so this Phillips "bare bulb" replacement probably isn't any better than the original because it was REALLY impressive again, but if it is even the same or close, it is still a great option.

One question, with the bare bulb, is there just the bulb and the "reflective housing" or is there a piece of glass in front of the bulb too? I'm guessing not based off of the pictures, but wanted to ask... The reason that I ask is that when my original bulb blew a couple of weeks ago, it actually cracked the glass and there were really fine bits of glass inside the projector. Thus, if it is the bulb and reflector (without the glass piece) then it won't work for everyone if their glass cracks....
Hello,
my X30 also has a problem. I hadn't used it in a week or so and now when I power it on nothing happens except mode and warning LED red and lamp LED blinking orange. The first time I also heard some sounds coming from it, like scraping, but in hindsight it could have been the noise of an electric arc trying to fire. I believe my lamp has around 1500 hours on it since I bought it in early 2012 (can't check now since there is no image), so not bad at all. I am therefore hoping it is the lamp and not worse.
So, I would like to try this philips bulb form the ebay site. Strangely enough this bulb is not to be found anywhere else on the web, I have tried to find it for a good while also on spanish and german sites. However, on the eBay site the vendor posts:
NOTE: This listing is for a Philips UltraBright bare lamp for your JVC projector. We highly recommend purchasing the Philips UltraBright replacement lamp with housing by clicking the upgrade button below


And it's only a $9 dollars more! But it does not have the flappy metal thing in the air intake. Maybe the philips lamp does not need it, since it is marked as 150W in stead of 220W of the original bulb and has a different build, as some also have noticed here?

Also, there is another vendor 'lamptycoons' on eBay from the US that sells exactly the same... (eBay 301998511149) but slightly more expensive.

But my main question is whether I should purchase it with or without the housing. Any experiences to share?

Thanks a lot to everyone!

Pietpara
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post #4685 of 4922 Old 09-05-2016, 01:58 AM
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Lightbulb

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Originally Posted by pietpara View Post
Hello,
Also, there is another vendor 'lamptycoons' on eBay from the US that sells exactly the same... (eBay 301998511149) but slightly more expensive.
BTW, two notable differences between the two ebay vendors:
- lamptycoons vendor gives 150 days warranty, while the discount-merchant gives 180 days
- discount-merchant also offers worldwide shipping with the Global Shipping Program (import taxes included in final price) with cheaper shipping

cheers
Pietpara
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post #4686 of 4922 Old 09-07-2016, 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Slonopot View Post
Are You yesterday on ixbt asked?
No. What was the answer?
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post #4687 of 4922 Old 09-08-2016, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pietpara View Post
Hello,
my X30 also has a problem. I hadn't used it in a week or so and now when I power it on nothing happens except mode and warning LED red and lamp LED blinking orange. The first time I also heard some sounds coming from it, like scraping, but in hindsight it could have been the noise of an electric arc trying to fire. I believe my lamp has around 1500 hours on it since I bought it in early 2012 (can't check now since there is no image), so not bad at all. I am therefore hoping it is the lamp and not worse.
So, I would like to try this philips bulb form the ebay site. Strangely enough this bulb is not to be found anywhere else on the web, I have tried to find it for a good while also on spanish and german sites. However, on the eBay site the vendor posts:
NOTE: This listing is for a Philips UltraBright bare lamp for your JVC projector. We highly recommend purchasing the Philips UltraBright replacement lamp with housing by clicking the upgrade button below


And it's only a $9 dollars more! But it does not have the flappy metal thing in the air intake. Maybe the philips lamp does not need it, since it is marked as 150W in stead of 220W of the original bulb and has a different build, as some also have noticed here?

Also, there is another vendor 'lamptycoons' on eBay from the US that sells exactly the same... (eBay 301998511149) but slightly more expensive.

But my main question is whether I should purchase it with or without the housing. Any experiences to share?

Thanks a lot to everyone!

Pietpara
I would pursue whether or not the electronics can match up with 150W instead of 220W. Any electrical engineers like to comment?

Jack
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post #4688 of 4922 Old 09-08-2016, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pietpara View Post
And it's only a $9 dollars more! But it does not have the flappy metal thing in the air intake. Maybe the philips lamp does not need it, since it is marked as 150W in stead of 220W of the original bulb and has a different build, as some also have noticed here?
But my main question is whether I should purchase it with or without the housing.
If the difference in price is only $9, I would get it with the housing. The metal flap is actually very easy to transfer from one housing to another.

Interestingly, the items are also available on Walmart.com, from the same seller.
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post #4689 of 4922 Old 09-13-2016, 02:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Frank Derks View Post
If both the warning led and the lamp led flash 3 times in a row then there is a fault (most likely) on the scaler/processor board.
You need a service shop that can replace the board. Simply ordering a new board and replacing it won't suffice because the eerom (factory) settings need to be copied from the board
and restored on the new board with special service software.


Partnumber for the scaler board is PC0210303U9


To add: both leds flashing:
1x DDM (digital drive module) reset or start error.
2x no communication with DDM.
3x scaler board error.


The power led blinks to indicate the cooldown cycle. It stops blinking after a minute or so.
Quick update. Got the processing board replaced at a repair shop in NL, EUR 1050 repair bill. Works fine now, now I need to adjust all the settings.
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post #4690 of 4922 Old 09-26-2016, 09:30 AM
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There is a guy sellng one of these locally on Craigslist for $600. I haven't seen it yet but figured I would ask other owners if this would be a worthwhile 'used' projector to buy. I have an Epson 8350 right now and have had it for years but it's covered in dust blobs and I'm craving something with a sealed light line and get away from this Epson junk.

Any thoughts or advice? What should I be looking for as warning signs if I go look at this thing today? Or should I stay away from it completely? And lastly, if its on the up and up and all is well, is $600 even a good price for it? I don't think it comes with the 3D equipment, just the projector and remote.

Really appreciate your input - thanks fellas!
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post #4691 of 4922 Old 09-26-2016, 09:35 AM
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If image looks good and brightness looks good, then you will have a very nice $600 projector. The lamp in the 45 was not considered one of JVC's better efforts, but the latest version seems to do okay. Just does not compare to what JVC currently does with lamp reliability and long lasting. You have to move up to an RS46 to get a much better lamp.
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post #4692 of 4922 Old 09-26-2016, 09:37 AM
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There is a guy sellng one of these locally on Craigslist for $600. I haven't seen it yet but figured I would ask other owners if this would be a worthwhile 'used' projector to buy.
The x30 is a nice projector even though it's a few "generations" old. You can get Philips lamps for it really cheap (around $60).
In addition to checking the picture quality, I would also check the motorized lens controls (zoom, shift, focus). Also check the convergence as it is not adjustable on this model.
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post #4693 of 4922 Old 10-08-2016, 09:18 AM
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I am sure that this has come up here, but I searched "blank" and "black" and "out" and w few other words trying to find it, but didn't see it.

Anyway, last night we were watching a movie, and 4 times during the movie (we watched the first hour, then turned everything off to go eat dinner, and then watched the second half, but it was twice during both sittings, that the image went out for about 3 seconds... During that time, audio would drop too (I assume due to handshaking issues?)... I've never had that happen before, that I remember. Just didn't know if it is something that others have experienced with their JVC projectors in the past or not. I really need to watch another movie to make sure that it isn't specific to the movie I watched. I DID watch a different movie earlier in the day without issue.

So has anyone have this happen before?

(My mind is saying that it could be anything in the mix... bad movie RIP, some HTPC video playback issue, failing HDMI cable, something wrong with my Anthem MRX-1120 passing video/audio, something with the projector.)
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post #4694 of 4922 Old 10-08-2016, 09:32 AM
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Sounds like something before the projector. I haven't seen anything like that.

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post #4695 of 4922 Old 10-08-2016, 09:49 AM
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Thanks. If we weren't heading out of town for the rest of the weekend, I would try a few other things, just wanted to ask here so that I can have a full game plan for when I get back home tomorrow night.

Thanks again.
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post #4696 of 4922 Old 10-08-2016, 10:27 AM
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Yeah. Tough to get too crazy over a one time thing for the most part. Easy to troubleshoot so you know it's not the pj.

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post #4697 of 4922 Old 10-08-2016, 10:12 PM
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Yeah. Tough to get too crazy over a one time thing for the most part. Easy to troubleshoot so you know it's not the pj.

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Just found out that tomorrow (Sunday) we might be getting home early enough to watch another movie. The family wants to watch Now You See Me 2, so we will give it a go. It was ripped on a different computer than the movie that had the drop out, and was done about 2 weeks prior too. If it plays fine, then it could be a bad rip (never had that happen before) or some video playback issue. I know that my video card in my HTPC wants to update drivers about every month, but it seems like if I do that, all heck breaks loose on the video playback, so I try to avoid it.

If it happens with that movie, then I can test with the standalone blu-ray player. If it does it with that, then I will become suspect of the Anthem MRX-1120 as cables don't generally just fail (although it could happen I guess). I could test with a TV signal too... I will see what happens...
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post #4698 of 4922 Old 10-09-2016, 06:55 AM
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Yeah. Your just sending a video signal to the pj, so if you have skips, pauses and audio issues, it should be something before it.

Need to see that movie too. First one was good.

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post #4699 of 4922 Old 10-29-2016, 01:02 PM
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Hey guys, after being a happy Mits HC3000 owner for 8 years, I'm looking to move up to 1080P and maybe a little 3d. I'm almost settled on buying a JVC RS45, but I keep reading that it will be too dim at my screen size (138" diagonal) - especially in 3d. Now normally this wouldn't dissuade me much, as I currently have the Mits HC3000, which has 1000hrs on the bulb and has less lumens than the RS45 and I ADORE the image it puts out on my huge screen, zero complaints...BUT, I've never done 3d - so that unknown is my biggest concern.

Will the 3d be watchable with the RS45 on a large screen (total light control/blacked out room, projector is mounted at about 20ft back in my room)?

IF NOT....what JVC/Sony/Other do I need to be looking for that will? Keeping in mind I want to keep deep blacks/high contrast as the main goal - and a USED price somewhere in the $1000-15000 range.

Thanks in advance for any advice!
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post #4700 of 4922 Old 10-29-2016, 02:02 PM
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Hey guys, after being a happy Mits HC3000 owner for 8 years, I'm looking to move up to 1080P and maybe a little 3d. I'm almost settled on buying a JVC RS45, but I keep reading that it will be too dim at my screen size (138" diagonal) - especially in 3d. Now normally this wouldn't dissuade me much, as I currently have the Mits HC3000, which has 1000hrs on the bulb and has less lumens than the RS45 and I ADORE the image it puts out on my huge screen, zero complaints...BUT, I've never done 3d - so that unknown is my biggest concern.

Will the 3d be watchable with the RS45 on a large screen (total light control/blacked out room, projector is mounted at about 20ft back in my room)?

IF NOT....what JVC/Sony/Other do I need to be looking for that will? Keeping in mind I want to keep deep blacks/high contrast as the main goal - and a USED price somewhere in the $1000-15000 range.

Thanks in advance for any advice!
I am using my RS45 on a 138" Seymour XD (acoustically transparent) screen, so I am limited to a screen gain of about 1.1
I also have my projector mounted about 15-16 feet from lens to screen. Closer and it would be a little brighter.

If you can mount the projector closer to the minimum distance, and have a higher gain screen, then you should be OK. I am quite happy with my setup, but I don't do anything 3D image wise...
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post #4701 of 4922 Old 10-30-2016, 02:47 PM
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I am using my RS45 on a 138" Seymour XD (acoustically transparent) screen, so I am limited to a screen gain of about 1.1
I also have my projector mounted about 15-16 feet from lens to screen. Closer and it would be a little brighter.

If you can mount the projector closer to the minimum distance, and have a higher gain screen, then you should be OK. I am quite happy with my setup, but I don't do anything 3D image wise...
Thanks for the input! My screen size is the same as yours, but my projector is mounted all the way to the back of my 22 ft room - which is where we sit, so the projector is above our heads and not noticeable. I'm afraid to move the RS45 up because it's so huge and my ceiling is 7' 9", so it's probably going to be pretty noticeable.

My screen is DIY, using screen material purchased from ebay - pretty sure it was matte/1.0 gain. Wondering if I go with the RS45, should I buy something more like 1.3 - 2.0 gain? or paint the screen? Projector will be ceiling mounted, so from what I've gathered, "HP" screen material will not work well. Also, I fear losing the great contrast/inky blacks - which is the main reason this projector is well-loved - if I go to high with the gain. Just need to figure out what the magic number is...
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post #4702 of 4922 Old 10-31-2016, 07:34 AM
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Yeah, my ceiling is about the same. The projector is above the 2nd row of seats in my room, so not in anyone's line of sight.

Others may have better experience with higher gain screens and the RS45.
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post #4703 of 4922 Old 10-31-2016, 10:26 PM
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Yeah, my ceiling is about the same. The projector is above the 2nd row of seats in my room, so not in anyone's line of sight.

Others may have better experience with higher gain screens and the RS45.
Well, I did it. I just purchased a used RS45 from ebay. Seller says it has an OEM bulb with around 450 hrs on it. The first thing I want to do is get a new OEM version 3 bulb put in, to be sure I'm getting the most out of the projector. As little as I use them, the bulb will probably last me until I upgrade projectors in several years. From reading this thread, it looks like the version 3 bulb has the number QLL0194-003 written on it. Does anyone have a current source for getting a good version 3 bulb? I've tried searching amazon and ebay, but there's bulbs ranging from $35 to $400 and NONE indicate whether the bulb is version 3 or not. Very frustrating. Any advice??
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post #4704 of 4922 Old 12-17-2016, 09:40 PM
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I just purchased an RS45 from a good friend of mine who has upgraded to an RS500.

I'm a die-hard and dedicated CRT projector enthusiast and I'm not making any plans to abandon CRT projectors,
in fact I'm buying more of them if I find the right models at the right price. I can make enough money off this
to make it at least a self-sustaining hobby.

So, what do I think about the RS45? I've seen many movies on it, when it was at my friend's house. It does a very fine job but
the black level is not particularly amazing if you are a die-hard CRT enthusiast like myself. The way my CRT projector is set up,
if the image goes to black, it's BLACK. In a fully light controlled room, you can't even see the bright white screen. It's like you went blind.

Nonetheless, I plan to have some enjoyable viewing on this machine even though so far I haven't had any success in getting it to see
the signal over the HDMI cable. It's acting like the cable is flaky but this same cable works just fine plugged into the HDMI input of my CRT projector.

I realize the RS45 is a few years out of date but it'll make a fine intro to modern HD projectors and the price was right.
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post #4705 of 4922 Old 12-19-2016, 01:54 PM
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Yeah, when the RS45 came it (and even the following year) it was a top pick for 2D movie watching from several product review/award sites. The phrase "inky blacks" were used all of the time to talk about what the RS45 could do.

Things are somewhat relative though vs. CRT. That said, it was really great with blacks when it came out, which wasn't THAT long ago.

I think that overall you will like it.
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post #4706 of 4922 Old 12-19-2016, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmjohnson View Post
I just purchased an RS45 from a good friend of mine who has upgraded to an RS500.

I'm a die-hard and dedicated CRT projector enthusiast and I'm not making any plans to abandon CRT projectors,
in fact I'm buying more of them if I find the right models at the right price. I can make enough money off this
to make it at least a self-sustaining hobby.

So, what do I think about the RS45? I've seen many movies on it, when it was at my friend's house. It does a very fine job but
the black level is not particularly amazing if you are a die-hard CRT enthusiast like myself. The way my CRT projector is set up,
if the image goes to black, it's BLACK. In a fully light controlled room, you can't even see the bright white screen. It's like you went blind.

Nonetheless, I plan to have some enjoyable viewing on this machine even though so far I haven't had any success in getting it to see
the signal over the HDMI cable. It's acting like the cable is flaky but this same cable works just fine plugged into the HDMI input of my CRT projector.

I realize the RS45 is a few years out of date but it'll make a fine intro to modern HD projectors and the price was right.
Hi CJ,

I went from CRT to the RS45 about four years ago or so. Like you, I was also addicted to CRT black levels, and was unsure if I was willing to lose those excellent black levels. The RS45 was the first projector I felt was good enough to warrant the cost to make the move.

Here's the thing... To get the "I can't see my hand in front of my face black", you have to crush the hell out of black. Seriously, if you set the projector up so black is absolute black, IRE 0-10 or so will also be essentially black. You're going to lose a lot of shadow detail.

What I found once I set up the RS45 and started watching it I really liked the more linear display of low-APL scenes. No, it wasn't pitch black, but things still looked really good.

One thing that will also improve black levels is bumping the size of the screen a little, and with the RS45, you have enough light to do it. Go to a 9-foot wide 1.0-gain screen (a size/material you'd never use with a CRT), and your black levels will improve.

Regarding the HDMI issue, have you ever seen it work? Was it working when you got it wherever you got it? I've seen a few of these machines with failed HDMI inputs.

The HDMI was a little finicky on mine, probably the combination of source(s), my Integra DHC-9.9 prepro, and the JVC. Handshake/display improved significantly once I started using on of the cheap Chinese splitters that defeated HDCP. I no longer had to power-cycle stuff and unplug/plug HDMI cables; it would just work. But, source-changes still took a LONG time to generate a picture - especially if the resolution changed. I think the scaler in the RS45 is pretty slow to sync to the signal and display a picture.

My suggestion would be to try one of the splitters to see if your HDMI input resolves. If that doesn't fix it, you might have a broken input.

Cheers,
SC

EDIT - PS - I didn't really miss my CRT at all once I had the RS45. Black level was the one area it didn't do as well, but everything else about it was superior. Personally, I ended up happy to make the trade.

I'm a Home Theater Enthusiast with GAS: Gadget Acquisition Syndrome.
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post #4707 of 4922 Old 12-19-2016, 02:24 PM
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Using an HDMI splitter helped. Turning the source OFF before connecting the HDMI cables helped, too.

Now that I've spent more time experimenting with the RS45's settings, and I'm getting it dialled in to my personal image preferences,
it's looking better and better. Dropping the brightness level put the black level down a lot, too, while preserving low level detail.

My setup is much different from how it USED to be set up at my friend's house. He was running it thru a Lumagen 2020 and I'm going
direct from source to projector, except for that HDMI splitter in the path.

What I found to be most interesting is how very different the geometry of the picture is from that of the Marquee. Both shooting on the
same screen, width and height set the same, but a lot of picture features don't line up. I'll put no time into adjusting geometry on either
projector until I have set up a mount for the RS45 and all I need to do is install a shelf and angle brackets on the back wall right
under the Marquee. It's a 15 minute job.

The idea is that I want to be able to stack the two projectors, calibrate them to match within the limits of the Marquee's color gamut,
and really be able to compare and contrast the two.

I can say that the RS45 is impressing me. It's a lot tougher competition than I was expecting. But it's too early for me to draw
any really significant conclusions. The first time I doubled up the image on the screen, the Marquee was the brighter projector,
which I thought was kind of funny. I had to drop contrast more than 10 notches to balance out the apparent brightness.

However, at this time I will still say that there is a vividness and smoothness (but not lacking for detail) to the Marquee's image
that makes you think of film. Though the RS45's pixels are very small and the gaps between them are tiny, I still feel like I'm
sensing, at least subliminally, some screen door effect. Which may be addressable by ever so slightly defocusing the projector.
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post #4708 of 4922 Old 12-19-2016, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmjohnson View Post
I had to drop contrast more than 10 notches to balance out the apparent brightness.
It's best to use the iris to reduce the overall brightness. That would also improve the contrast ratio.

Last edited by Dominic Chan; 12-19-2016 at 04:28 PM.
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post #4709 of 4922 Old 12-20-2016, 09:49 AM
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Hi guys ,I am wondering if anyone else has had the same problem... The picture is very snowny when I use the 1st HDMI port of my X30 projector... The second hdmi port works fine. I have noticed that hdmi cable is not locking very well in the 1st HDMI port ,,,, Please any suggestions ?
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post #4710 of 4922 Old 12-21-2016, 07:48 PM
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Use the good port. The HDMI connector is not really very robustly designed and it would probably cost more than it's worth to have the connector replaced.


I've found that my picture can disappear if I just TOUCh the HDMI connector when it's plugged into the projector.

From a physical robustness standpoint, I consider the HDMI connector to be the weakest connector design I've ever seen in the video world.

DVI is much more robust.
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