Official Owners' Thread, Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Page 195 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #5821 of 5994 Old 10-03-2018, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by munnlete View Post
Thanks for the insight. My environment is a walkout basement with a blackout curtain, so it is relatively light controlled. I was going to upgrade to a ps4 pro soon, so wondering about projectors that give a 4k benefit. (current pt-ae8000u user) I do see a like-new jvc-rs500u in an auction right now at a good price.


This is always an important reminder for people considering buying a JVC: genuine lamp replacements are very expensive ($300+), and people often complain they don’t last long enough. I don’t want to be the killjoy in this thread, and I have a JVC myself, but I think you should know this.


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post #5822 of 5994 Old 10-04-2018, 06:59 AM
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Is it true that the rs540 improved significantly over the rs500 in terms of input lag?
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post #5823 of 5994 Old 10-04-2018, 07:00 AM
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How about we move the JVC talk to their own thread?
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post #5824 of 5994 Old 10-04-2018, 08:24 AM
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How about we move the JVC talk to their own thread?


Haha. Sorry, you’re right.


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post #5825 of 5994 Old 10-08-2018, 12:25 AM
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Well I own a Panasonic 8000 in a dedicated room and after researching the last two weeks, I may order the JVC RS540 this week.

Considering the 8000 is dead and buried, I have no issues with discussing here the topic of what to replace it with.
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post #5826 of 5994 Old 10-08-2018, 09:21 AM
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Considering the 8000 is dead and buried, I have no issues with discussing here the topic of what to replace it with.

No. Beyond preliminary discussions and comparisons, such topics need to be in their own thread. It's good practice within any forum.

And the AE8000 is far from dead and buried. Many folks (myself included) still use it for various reasons.

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post #5827 of 5994 Old 10-08-2018, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by kheiden View Post
Considering the 8000 is dead and buried, I have no issues with discussing here the topic of what to replace it with.

No. Beyond preliminary discussions and comparisons, such topics need to be in their own thread. It's good practice within any forum.

And the AE8000 is far from dead and buried. Many folks (myself included) still use it for various reasons.
Maybe you missed that I’m still using one. They’re still no longer in production and OEM lamps are becoming scarce. Not exactly fresh.

If having a discussing about how PT-AE8000 owners projectors compare to a potential new projector by posting a thread among the proposed new projector’s owners makes more sense, go for it. I think it’s inefficient to create multiple threads for comparison to a single projector. Where’s the Panny 8000-to-Optoma thread and the 8000-to-EPSON thread?

I think this makes it a lot harder for 8000 owners to find suitable replacements by fishing around multiple threads, but that’s just my opinion.
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post #5828 of 5994 Old 10-08-2018, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by kheiden View Post
Maybe you missed that I’m still using one. They’re still no longer in production and OEM lamps are becoming scarce. Not exactly fresh.

If having a discussing about how PT-AE8000 owners projectors compare to a potential new projector by posting a thread among the proposed new projector’s owners makes more sense, go for it. I think it’s inefficient to create multiple threads for comparison to a single projector. Where’s the Panny 8000-to-Optoma thread and the 8000-to-EPSON thread?

I think this makes it a lot harder for 8000 owners to find suitable replacements by fishing around multiple threads, but that’s just my opinion.
I gotcha. I do agree it adds value to bring up the subject here, especially as the Panny's are no longer in production. FWIW, I've seen a couple of the RS series JVC's and would agree they're quite good in terms of replacement candidates.

My concern was not taking such discussions too far into the weeds before migrating them, but I do understand your point. It's easier to find someone who can relate to the thought process here - in a thread where most people already own or have owned a PJ in the AE series.

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post #5829 of 5994 Old 10-08-2018, 11:26 AM
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We all bought 8000s for a reason, and a lot of those reasons will still need to be considered for the eventual replacement.

I agree that some initial discussion is valuable here, but primarily how a projector’s feature set and performance compares to the 8000. As we then look further into projector models, it would be best for everyone to move more specific inquiries to the specific thread of the projector in question.




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post #5830 of 5994 Old 10-08-2018, 12:29 PM
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While we're on the discussion of the AE6000/8000 and longevity....

Attached is the cleaning procedure of the air filter, excerpted from the service manual. This is supposed to be performed ~ every 100 hours of use.

Regarding replacement bulbs, the number of available suppliers appears to be dwindling rapidly (the $50 knock-off suppliers notwithstanding). Here is the data I have that is current as of today (10.08.2018) on what are believed to be reputable suppliers AFAIK:



Links:

B&H Photo, Red Shift
Jaspertronics, non-Red Shift bulb
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post #5831 of 5994 Old 10-08-2018, 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by HT Geek View Post
While we're on the discussion of the AE6000/8000 and longevity....

Attached is the cleaning procedure of the air filter, excerpted from the service manual. This is supposed to be performed ~ every 100 hours of use.

Regarding replacement bulbs, the number of available suppliers appears to be dwindling rapidly (the $50 knock-off suppliers notwithstanding). Here is the data I have that is current as of today (10.08.2018) on what are believed to be reputable suppliers AFAIK:



Links:

B&H Photo, Red Shift
Jaspertronics, non-Red Shift bulb
I got my 8000u right when it launched so it's been going on 6 years in my light-controlled theater and has generally been rock solid. Last week I was watching something when it literally just went dark. Not knowing what happened I assumed the bulb burnt out or something. There was no warning messages or anything. Then I heard the fans shut off and I realized it went into a power down mode. But it was immediate...the graphical menu to shut down did not appear.

I powered it back on and everything went right back to normal. I watched a movie with my daughter on Friday night with no issues. I did some gaming on Saturday night with no issues. Then last night I was about 40 minutes into a show and it happened again. Just went dark and the fans kept running in cool down mode. I turned it back on and was able to finish my show.

Anyone experience this? I cleaned my filters not too long ago, plus in the manual page posted prior to this, it says "a confirmation message" would be displayed which I'm not getting.

I'm wondering if my inevitable upgrade to 4K is coming sooner than I thought...
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post #5832 of 5994 Old 10-09-2018, 03:15 PM
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I got my 8000u right when it launched so it's been going on 6 years in my light-controlled theater and has generally been rock solid. Last week I was watching something when it literally just went dark. Not knowing what happened I assumed the bulb burnt out or something. There was no warning messages or anything. Then I heard the fans shut off and I realized it went into a power down mode. But it was immediate...the graphical menu to shut down did not appear.

I powered it back on and everything went right back to normal. I watched a movie with my daughter on Friday night with no issues. I did some gaming on Saturday night with no issues. Then last night I was about 40 minutes into a show and it happened again. Just went dark and the fans kept running in cool down mode. I turned it back on and was able to finish my show.

Anyone experience this? I cleaned my filters not too long ago, plus in the manual page posted prior to this, it says "a confirmation message" would be displayed which I'm not getting.

I'm wondering if my inevitable upgrade to 4K is coming sooner than I thought...
The best way to know what is happening, if it is possible to turn on the PJ, is to enter the hidden menu. Press the power-off button, then the "right" arrow, then "up", "down", "up", "down" and "intro". The EXT OPTION MENU is displayed. By selecting the third line "self check" you will see what went wrong.
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post #5833 of 5994 Old 10-09-2018, 07:57 PM
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Exclamation

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Originally Posted by ferbal View Post
The best way to know what is happening, if it is possible to turn on the PJ, is to enter the hidden menu. Press the power-off button, then the "right" arrow, then "up", "down", "up", "down" and "intro". The EXT OPTION MENU is displayed. By selecting the third line "self check" you will see what went wrong.
Someone please make that comment a sticky!!!
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post #5834 of 5994 Old 10-10-2018, 10:18 AM
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The best way to know what is happening, if it is possible to turn on the PJ, is to enter the hidden menu. Press the power-off button, then the "right" arrow, then "up", "down", "up", "down" and "intro". The EXT OPTION MENU is displayed. By selecting the third line "self check" you will see what went wrong.
Thanks for this. Small edit...the last button is "Enter", not "Intro." ;-)

So from that menu, everything looks OK. Next time it shuts down I'll make sure to run this right away and see if it says anything different.
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post #5835 of 5994 Old 10-10-2018, 12:38 PM
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Thanks for this. Small edit...the last button is "Enter", not "Intro." ;-)

So from that menu, everything looks OK. Next time it shuts down I'll make sure to run this right away and see if it says anything different.
Strange.
In the next power-on after a malfunction, the menu should inform what is failing (NG), and it if it works now but it has shutted down because of an abnormality happened last time it would be a red "OK".
IE: a failing auto-iris would give a red "OK".
Possible solutions:
Try putting the auto-iris to off.
Try to re-sit the lamp
If none of these work, it could be a bad ballast
I'm copying a link to the Service Manual that may help.
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/76...0u.html#manual
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post #5836 of 5994 Old 10-11-2018, 10:19 AM
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Hello,

I recently changed the bulb, and I'm now noticing a pink band running along the bottom of the image (stronger on the left side), and a much fainter blue band at the top. There's also what looks like some "blotches"

From reading this thread it seems like a polarizer has shifted, but wanted to see what the consensus was.



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post #5837 of 5994 Old 10-11-2018, 11:01 AM
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Hello,

I recently changed the bulb, and I'm now noticing a pink band running along the bottom of the image (stronger on the left side), and a much fainter blue band at the top. There's also what looks like some "blotches"

From reading this thread it seems like a polarizer has shifted, but wanted to see what the consensus was.


Hi,

This happens a lot with the Epson Home Cinema series from 9 years ago, and it is always caused by a vertical displacement of the second lens after the lamp (this lens has a squared pattern), but with the Epsons the bars on top and bottom are about 3 times smaller. This squared lens is supposed refract the light uniformly into the lightpath, and this issue changes the refraction.

I've read the polarizer theory, but if we're talking about the polarizers that sit between the light-path and the LCDs, I don't see any way they could cause this. I can imagine there being one coloured band where the polarizer would be so severely out of place that the light would reach the LCD without being filtered by it, but two coloured bands like that doesn't make sense to me. Not to mention the area covered by the polarizer is much larger than that of the LCD, so it would have to be REALLY misplaced. Then there are the other polarizer glasses that divide the lamp's while light into the RGB colours. When one of these is tilted vertically, one bar will show up at the top or bottom of the image, but also not like this as far as I know.

So, I would bet it's one of the squared lenses right after the lamp that has shifted.

Here's a video where I fix the issue in an Epson projector. Also, @ferbal has just posted a link to the service manual of your Panasonic, which will be useful in case you'd like to dig into it. According to my theory, it would be the part 58-8 on page 63 of that service manual.

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post #5838 of 5994 Old 10-11-2018, 11:47 AM
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Hi,

This happens a lot with the Epson Home Cinema series from 9 years ago, and it is always caused by a vertical displacement of the second lens after the lamp (this lens has a squared pattern), but with the Epsons the bars on top and bottom are about 3 times smaller. This squared lens is supposed refract the light uniformly into the lightpath, and this issue changes the refraction.

I've read the polarizer theory, but if we're talking about the polarizers that sit between the light-path and the LCDs, I don't see any way they could cause this. I can imagine there being one coloured band where the polarizer would be so severely out of place that the light would reach the LCD without being filtered by it, but two coloured bands like that doesn't make sense to me. Not to mention the area covered by the polarizer is much larger than that of the LCD, so it would have to be REALLY misplaced. Then there are the other polarizer glasses that divide the lamp's while light into the RGB colours. When one of these is tilted vertically, one bar will show up at the top or bottom of the image, but also not like this as far as I know.

So, I would bet it's one of the squared lenses right after the lamp that has shifted.

Here's a video where I fix the issue in an Epson projector. Also, @ferbal has just posted a link to the service manual of your Panasonic, which will be useful in case you'd like to dig into it. According to my theory, it would be the part 58-8 on page 63 of that service manual.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DzNIdS4Btsc

Thanks VERY MUCH for taking the time to write this reply. I'm going to research to see how hard it is to get to this squared lens. I've done electronic repair before, but this looks pretty challenging.


EDIT: Removed the bulb and did a visual inspection, it doesn't "seem" like it's out of place, but I guess anything's possible:





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post #5839 of 5994 Old 10-11-2018, 02:30 PM
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[QUOTE=descalabro;56939736]Hi,
...
I've read the polarizer theory, but if we're talking about the polarizers that sit between the light-path and the LCDs, I don't see any way they could cause this. I can imagine there being one coloured band where the polarizer would be so severely out of place that the light would reach the LCD without being filtered by it, but two coloured bands like that doesn't make sense to me. Not to mention the area covered by the polarizer is much larger than that of the LCD, so it would have to be REALLY misplaced. Then there are the other polarizer glasses that divide the lamp's while light into the RGB colours. When one of these is tilted vertically, one bar will show up at the top or bottom of the image, but also not like this as far as I know.
...
/QUOTE]

That's actually what happened to me with a Panasonic AE4000 PJ. Each polarizer is attached to a frame with an adhesive. The adhesive that fixed the green polarizer lost grip and the polarizer moved down (with the PJ inverted). That adhesive band on the glass was now blocking the light in that area. So, in the absence of green, what should be white was pink (see my avatar). But this was with the AE4000, I have not disassembled my AE8000 so I do not know if they have modified them, so it could be that one of the squared lenses right after the lamp that has shifted.
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post #5840 of 5994 Old 10-11-2018, 05:43 PM
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[quote=ferbal;56940670]
Quote:
Originally Posted by descalabro View Post
Hi,
...
I've read the polarizer theory, but if we're talking about the polarizers that sit between the light-path and the LCDs, I don't see any way they could cause this. I can imagine there being one coloured band where the polarizer would be so severely out of place that the light would reach the LCD without being filtered by it, but two coloured bands like that doesn't make sense to me. Not to mention the area covered by the polarizer is much larger than that of the LCD, so it would have to be REALLY misplaced. Then there are the other polarizer glasses that divide the lamp's while light into the RGB colours. When one of these is tilted vertically, one bar will show up at the top or bottom of the image, but also not like this as far as I know.
...
/QUOTE]

That's actually what happened to me with a Panasonic AE4000 PJ. Each polarizer is attached to a frame with an adhesive. The adhesive that fixed the green polarizer lost grip and the polarizer moved down (with the PJ inverted). That adhesive band on the glass was now blocking the light in that area. So, in the absence of green, what should be white was pink (see my avatar). But this was with the AE4000, I have not disassembled my AE8000 so I do not know if they have modified them, so it could be that one of the squared lenses right after the lamp that has shifted.
I managed (using the Service Manual as a guide) to disassemble to the point of removing the Optical Block (Lens itself with stuff attached) which gave me access to the polarizers and LCDs. They all had a thin film of very fine dust. Tried compressed air and it wouldn't budge, so used a dry q-tip to lightly dust it off, then finished with compressed air to get any loose particles.

The bands are still there, but a lot less noticeable. The blotches you see in the shot above are completely gone, so that was a nice improvement.

While I was in there I looked to see if any of the polarizers looked like they shifted, but to my eye they seemed aligned. The PLC also seems to be in the right spot.

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post #5841 of 5994 Old 10-11-2018, 10:56 PM
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That's actually what happened to me with a Panasonic AE4000 PJ. Each polarizer is attached to a frame with an adhesive. The adhesive that fixed the green polarizer lost grip and the polarizer moved down (with the PJ inverted). That adhesive band on the glass was now blocking the light in that area. So, in the absence of green, what should be white was pink (see my avatar). But this was with the AE4000, I have not disassembled my AE8000 so I do not know if they have modified them, so it could be that one of the squared lenses right after the lamp that has shifted.

Yes, but did you get one or two bands with incorrect colour? That’s the main point here, that I don’t see how a misaligned polarizer would cause bands both on top and bottom of the image.



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post #5842 of 5994 Old 10-11-2018, 11:39 PM
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[quote=cscoppa;56941544]
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Originally Posted by ferbal View Post



I managed (using the Service Manual as a guide) to disassemble to the point of removing the Optical Block (Lens itself with stuff attached) which gave me access to the polarizers and LCDs. They all had a thin film of very fine dust. Tried compressed air and it wouldn't budge, so used a dry q-tip to lightly dust it off, then finished with compressed air to get any loose particles.



The bands are still there, but a lot less noticeable. The blotches you see in the shot above are completely gone, so that was a nice improvement.



While I was in there I looked to see if any of the polarizers looked like they shifted, but to my eye they seemed aligned. The PLC also seems to be in the right spot.


The PLC picture you’ve taken shows a much more secured lens than what the Epsons had. But as you’ll see in the video, the lens was just slightly displaced. If this is what’s happening to your Panasonic, then the lens would have to be a bit more out of place than in the Epsons. Before moving on further, did the previous bulb explode or did it simply die?


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post #5843 of 5994 Old 10-12-2018, 05:27 AM
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[quote=descalabro;56942564]
Quote:
Originally Posted by cscoppa View Post

The PLC picture you’ve taken shows a much more secured lens than what the Epsons had. But as you’ll see in the video, the lens was just slightly displaced. If this is what’s happening to your Panasonic, then the lens would have to be a bit more out of place than in the Epsons. Before moving on further, did the previous bulb explode or did it simply die?

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No, the previous bulb didn't explode, it just became too dim, it was pretty noticeable. I'm planning on going deeper into the projector today, now that I'm comfortable with removing the main board and Optical Block. This way I can try the "press" shown in the video and see if it can go any further down.

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post #5844 of 5994 Old 10-12-2018, 06:42 AM
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[quote=cscoppa;56943690]
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Originally Posted by descalabro View Post

No, the previous bulb didn't explode, it just became too dim, it was pretty noticeable. I'm planning on going deeper into the projector today, now that I'm comfortable with removing the main board and Optical Block. This way I can try the "press" shown in the video and see if it can go any further down.
An exploding bulb would easily explain an out of place nearby lens. As it is, I'm a bit puzzled about what may be the issue here. Do you normally have your projector upside-down?

When you do press on the lens, notice that it is quite a firm push (as you may notice in the video), but don't overdo it. Also, if you decide to do anything else inside the projector that you're dubious it will do any good, don't do it without asking about it here first. I've done my share of breaking inside projectors for trying things without good reason to think they would work.
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post #5845 of 5994 Old 10-12-2018, 06:57 AM
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[quote=descalabro;56943864]
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Originally Posted by cscoppa View Post

An exploding bulb would easily explain an out of place nearby lens. As it is, I'm a bit puzzled about what may be the issue here. Do you normally have your projector upside-down?

When you do press on the lens, notice that it is quite a firm push (as you may notice in the video), but don't overdo it. Also, if you decide to do anything else inside the projector that you're dubious it will do any good, don't do it without asking about it here first. I've done my share of breaking inside projectors for trying things without good reason to think they would work.

Really my plan was to gain access to the PLC to see if a firm press will get it to move, also to see if any other lenses near the bulb could have shifted. It is always mounted upside-down so the theory of gravity / heat having something move fits.

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post #5846 of 5994 Old 10-12-2018, 07:38 AM
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[quote=descalabro;56943864]
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Originally Posted by cscoppa View Post

An exploding bulb would easily explain an out of place nearby lens. As it is, I'm a bit puzzled about what may be the issue here. Do you normally have your projector upside-down?

When you do press on the lens, notice that it is quite a firm push (as you may notice in the video), but don't overdo it. Also, if you decide to do anything else inside the projector that you're dubious it will do any good, don't do it without asking about it here first. I've done my share of breaking inside projectors for trying things without good reason to think they would work.

Ok, I'm in ... I'm guessing this lens isn't supposed to look like this???




Also I noticed this on one of the Polarizers, it seems to match what I'm seeing on the screen (heavier on the bottom left)


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Last edited by cscoppa; 10-12-2018 at 07:48 AM.
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post #5847 of 5994 Old 10-12-2018, 07:47 AM
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[quote=cscoppa;56944028]
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Ok, I'm in ... I'm guessing this lens isn't supposed to look like this???

You're guessing correctly. I don't know how that happens. Maybe the lens has some sort of coating that burns...? The way I would approach to cleaning that is using cotton swabs and distilled water. Isopropyl alcohol if distilled water doesn't do it. That is, after taking the lens out. Also, avoid cleaning anything else unless it does look dirty. And don't use distilled water or isopropyl alcohol on any kind of coloured glass or polarizer.

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post #5848 of 5994 Old 10-12-2018, 07:57 AM
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Also I noticed this on one of the Polarizers, it seems to match what I'm seeing on the screen (heavier on the bottom left)

Hmm, that one does look like a worse problem than the dirty squared lens. Is that the polarizer that goes in front of the LCD for the blue color? It does look like it's done for. I still don't know if by itself would cause two straight bars on the top and the bottom, but at least some general discolouration would occur.

Upon close inspection, does it look like it's stained or does it look simply worn-out?
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Last edited by descalabro; 10-12-2018 at 08:01 AM.
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post #5849 of 5994 Old 10-12-2018, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by descalabro View Post
Hmm, that one does look like a worse problem than the dirty squared lens. Is that the polarizer that goes in front of the LCD for the blue color? It does look like it's done for. I still don't know if by itself would cause two straight bars on the top and the bottom, but at least some general discolouration would occur.

Upon close inspection, does it look like it's stained or does it look simply worn-out?

I probably have the thin band at the top, and a little of the bottom band issue, from the gunk on that one lens. The much more visible issue, bottom-left, seems to match perfectly with what I see on the polarizer, it's the one that's closest to the lamp. Even though the light bounces off a mirror before it gets there, it's probably still pretty warm... enough to leave that mark over time.

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post #5850 of 5994 Old 10-12-2018, 08:08 AM
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I probably have the thin band at the top, and a little of the bottom band issue, from the gunk on that one lens. The much more visible issue, bottom-left, seems to match perfectly with what I see on the polarizer, it's the one that's closest to the lamp. Even though the light bounces off a mirror before it gets there, it's probably still pretty warm... enough to leave that mark over time.
Oh, yes, no doubt about it, polarizers get burned over time. The one closest to the lamp is the polarizer for the blue color. I don't think there's any thing you can do about the polarizer except replacing it. But for that you need to find a replacement part. Are you located in Europe?
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