Official Owners' Thread, Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Page 196 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #5851 of 5994 Old 10-12-2018, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by descalabro View Post
Oh, yes, no doubt about it, polarizers get burned over time. The one closest to the lamp is the polarizer for the blue color. I don't think there's any thing you can do about the polarizer except replacing it. But for that you need to find a replacement part. Are you located in Europe?

No, I'm in the States, in N.J.

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post #5852 of 5994 Old 10-12-2018, 08:55 AM
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No, I'm in the States, in N.J.
Besides people who occasionally sell parts on eBay (here's one) and elsewhere, I can only think of this chinese seller called LampDeng . You can contact them directly through [email protected]. I've contacted them once. In the end I got the polarizer from a used projector in my country, but that Jerry guy was competent and well aware of the model and part that I needed. The price was around $80 + shipping.
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post #5853 of 5994 Old 10-12-2018, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by descalabro View Post
Oh, yes, no doubt about it, polarizers get burned over time. The one closest to the lamp is the polarizer for the blue color. I don't think there's any thing you can do about the polarizer except replacing it. But for that you need to find a replacement part. Are you located in Europe?
When the PJ is inverted-mounted, there is more heat inside the PJ. Since I had the "shifting" polarizer, I'm using the fan in high mode and also, I clean the filter at least once a month.
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post #5854 of 5994 Old 10-12-2018, 09:41 AM
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When the PJ is inverted-mounted, there is more heat inside the PJ.
Why is that? Heat doesn't dissipate that well on upside-down position?
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post #5855 of 5994 Old 10-12-2018, 09:51 AM
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When the PJ is inverted-mounted, there is more heat inside the PJ. Since I had the "shifting" polarizer, I'm using the fan in high mode and also, I clean the filter at least once a month.
What's very upsetting to me is this model has MULTIPLE heat sensors inside it, it's "supposed" to shut itself down when temps are higher than normal, clearly that is not working as intended if the lens / polarizer could get cooked like that.

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post #5856 of 5994 Old 10-12-2018, 09:57 AM
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What's very upsetting to me is this model has MULTIPLE heat sensors inside it, it's "supposed" to shut itself down when temps are higher than normal, clearly that is not working as intended if the lens / polarizer could get cooked like that.
But that's not the case: all projectors with polarizers will do this eventually. It's not an overheating problem, it's a problem with how fragile polarizer coatings are. And from what I've seen over the years, it's just a matter of luck whether it happens quickly or slowly. If you buy another projector and want to keep it for this long, the only certain way to avoid this particular issue is to buy DLP instead of LCD. This is not like saying DLP projectors don't have their own kinds of problems...

And yes, it's annoying. Projectors are in themselves consumable products in this regard.
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post #5857 of 5994 Old 10-12-2018, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by descalabro View Post
But that's not the case: all projectors with polarizers will do this eventually. It's not an overheating problem, it's a problem with how fragile polarizer coatings are. And from what I've seen over the years, it's just a matter of luck whether it happens quickly or slowly. If you buy another projector and want to keep it for this long, the only certain way to avoid this particular issue is to buy DLP instead of LCD. This is not like saying DLP projectors don't have their own kinds of problems...

And yes, it's annoying. Projectors are in themselves consumable products in this regard.
First. I'm not telling that the PJ will overheat when is ceiling-mounted.
Second. Yes, excesive heat will damage the polarizers. But older polarizers burned easier than the newer. I think is rare to read a recent post informing burnt polarizers.
When a PJ is ceiling-mounted, the circulating heat also goes upwards reaching more the parts that in normal position are in the bottom. The top of the Optical Block is open and better ventilated, the base (bottom) is closed. That's why, IMHO, I think that in the upsidedown position there will be more heat (and dirt) at the base.
cscoppa your polarizer is burnt (or dirty) near the base?
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post #5858 of 5994 Old 10-12-2018, 10:49 AM
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First. I'm not telling that the PJ will overheat when is ceiling-mounted.
Second. Yes, excesive heat will damage the polarizers. But older polarizers burned easier than the newer. I think is rare to read a recent post informing burnt polarizers.
When a PJ is ceiling-mounted, the circulating heat also goes upwards reaching more the parts that in normal position are in the bottom. The top of the Optical Block is open and better ventilated, the base (bottom) is closed. That's why, IMHO, I think that in the upsidedown position there will be more heat (and dirt) at the base.
cscoppa your polarizer is burnt (or dirty) near the base?
I have it back together now (everything still works thank god) but based on my photos I think the darkened area is actually towards the top of the unit... projected on the screen it ends up on bottom.

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post #5859 of 5994 Old 10-12-2018, 11:06 AM
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First. I'm not telling that the PJ will overheat when is ceiling-mounted.
Second. Yes, excesive heat will damage the polarizers. But older polarizers burned easier than the newer. I think is rare to read a recent post informing burnt polarizers.

I hope you are right, although most people don’t hang on to their projectors as much time as they used to. If you’re right about the newer polarizers being more resistant to heat, then I might hope one day get a used high-end post-2015 JVC for cheap and still enjoy its image. I once got a used RS20 but it had polarizer problems too.




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post #5860 of 5994 Old 10-12-2018, 11:46 AM
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I hope you are right, although most people don’t hang on to their projectors as much time as they used to. If you’re right about the newer polarizers being more resistant to heat, then I might hope one day get a used high-end post-2015 JVC for cheap and still enjoy its image. I once got a used RS20 but it had polarizer problems too.

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I've just buyed a new and expensive lamp (legit) for my AE8000. The old one has +2500 hs and still going strong. Lamp: ECO, fan: HIGH. No dust blobs, flicker or other problems so far... I long for deeper blacks, so my next PJ will be a JVC (¿LED or Laser?) when their price comes down and the PJ's HDR is more mature. I'm not much interested in 4K. Regards, Fernando
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post #5861 of 5994 Old 10-13-2018, 12:01 AM
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I've just buyed a new and expensive lamp (legit) for my AE8000. The old one has +2500 hs and still going strong. Lamp: ECO, fan: HIGH. No dust blobs, flicker or other problems so far... I long for deeper blacks, so my next PJ will be a JVC (¿LED or Laser?) when their price comes down and the PJ's HDR is more mature. I'm not much interested in 4K. Regards, Fernando
This isn't the right thread, so I won't go on much talking about JVC, but It seems to me that their projectors are getting bigger and more expensive, and that laser isn't something they will soon include for less than a fortune. But I hope you can get one.
Cheers,


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post #5862 of 5994 Old 10-13-2018, 09:33 AM
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What's very upsetting to me is this model has MULTIPLE heat sensors inside it, it's "supposed" to shut itself down when temps are higher than normal, clearly that is not working as intended if the lens / polarizer could get cooked like that.

So I just found this thread, looks like he had the EXACT same symptoms as me with a PT-AT6000:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...l#post50816297

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post #5863 of 5994 Old 10-13-2018, 09:55 AM
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So I just found this thread, looks like he had the EXACT same symptoms as me with a PT-AT6000:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...l#post50816297
Well, unless someone can update that thread, it's a dead-end. The seller I've pointed to on eBay seems to be trustworthy, but the question is: are you willing to buy the parts and replace them considering the current value of your projector?

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post #5864 of 5994 Old 10-13-2018, 09:59 AM
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Well, unless someone can update that thread, it's a dead-end. The seller I've pointed to on eBay seems to be trustworthy, but the question is: are you willing to buy the parts and replace them considering the current value of your projector?
I'll definitely get a quote. I need a new PBS Array, Blue Polarizer plus there's another lens with the little squares very close to the bulb that has a crack in it. The weird thing is it's not shown in the Service Manual exploded parts view... I know I saw it. Considering the 3 parts it's probably cheaper/smarter to buy the whole "Analysis Block"

https://www.ued.net/ued/viewItemActi...MSCTXFEC02THHZ

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post #5865 of 5994 Old 10-13-2018, 10:14 AM
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I'll definitely get a quote. I need a new PBS Array, Blue Polarizer plus there's another lens with the little squares very close to the bulb that has a crack in it. The weird thing is it's not shown in the Service Manual exploded parts view... I know I saw it. Considering the 3 parts it's probably cheaper/smarter to buy the whole "Optical Block"

https://www.ued.net/ued/viewItemActi...MSCTXFEC02THHZ
Well that one's out of stock, and I'm a bit skeptical about that availability date. And although you've got the best home cinema projector Panasonic has ever produced, I wouldn't buy a new optical block for it at this point. To buy it in one whole piece is almost like getting a new projector, but still, $700+...

Maybe that other square lens is part nº 58-9.
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post #5866 of 5994 Old 10-13-2018, 10:38 AM
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Well that one's out of stock, and I'm a bit skeptical about that availability date. And although you've got the best home cinema projector Panasonic has ever produced, I wouldn't buy a new optical block for it at this point. To buy it in one whole piece is almost like getting a new projector, but still, $700+...

Maybe that other square lens is part nº 58-9.
58-9 is the Cinema Filter, I believe that one might slide in and out of the light path. Saw a little electric motor there. The one with the cracks has little squares on it, similar to the one you can see when you have the bulb out. (so there's at least 2 lenses with the squares, one that goes right next to the lamp and another a little further away)

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post #5867 of 5994 Old 10-13-2018, 10:44 AM
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Oh, I didn’t know that Panasonic model had a cinema filter. I’m out of ideas.


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post #5868 of 5994 Old 10-13-2018, 10:56 AM
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Just thought to mention that Panasonic specifically mentions that the use of aftermarket lamps not made by them run the risk of overheating the mechanism and causing problems:
" Some non-OEM lamps produce excessive heat which can damage the projector and is not covered under warranty. Protect your investment and use only lamps that meet the original factory specifications."
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post #5869 of 5994 Old 10-13-2018, 11:07 AM
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Just thought to mention that Panasonic specifically mentions that the use of aftermarket lamps not made by them run the risk of overheating the mechanism and causing problems:
" Some non-OEM lamps produce excessive heat which can damage the projector and is not covered under warranty. Protect your investment and use only lamps that meet the original factory specifications."

This is entirely possible. I'm not the original owner, the projector came with the house. If you look on Amazon, they sell a bulb they claim to be OEM but the comments tell a different story. There's TONS of fakes out there. I think it's some combination of bulbs used, status of the air filter and just time logged. This unit is at ~9400 hours now and Panasonic mentioned about 10,000 hours of life on the Analysis Block.

"The LCD panels and polarizers inside the LCD projector's optical block tend to degrade over time. Their degradation adversely affects image quality. Inorganic materials are used for the LCD panels, and for the polarizers that are prone to degradation, to resist time-related changes in the optical block, therefore achieving a replacement cycle of up to 10,000 hours."

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post #5870 of 5994 Old 10-13-2018, 11:08 AM
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Just thought to mention that Panasonic specifically mentions that the use of aftermarket lamps not made by them run the risk of overheating the mechanism an causing problems.


I do understand that after market lamps have inferior UV filtering, and that we can never tell if they’re releasing more than the recommended amount of heat. On the other hand, I’ve yet to find any meaningful data that can show me aftermarket lamps have had a relevant influence on all the heat-related problems I’ve seen reported on this forum over the years.


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post #5871 of 5994 Old 10-15-2018, 12:23 AM
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I just bought an OEM replacement from B & H. Have yet to install it though. Still have about 400 hours left on my old one.
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post #5872 of 5994 Old 10-16-2018, 10:02 AM
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I just bought an OEM replacement from B & H. Have yet to install it though. Still have about 400 hours left on my old one.
I also just bought it there. Expensive, but 100% original. I suggest to install it now because it has a small warranty, and to keep the old lamp as a spare. Do not forget to change the filter and to reset the counter in the main menu.
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post #5873 of 5994 Old 10-16-2018, 10:15 AM
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I also just bought it there. Expensive, but 100% original. I suggest to install it now because it has a small warranty, and to keep the old lamp as a spare. Do not forget to change the filter and to reset the counter in the main menu.
Question for the two of you that bought from B&H, does the carrier have the part numbers like this pic I took of the one on the right?




Also on the end of the bulb is there a white piece with the word "Ushio" written on it or just the positive "pin"?


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post #5874 of 5994 Old 10-16-2018, 10:29 AM
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Strange.
In the next power-on after a malfunction, the menu should inform what is failing (NG), and it if it works now but it has shutted down because of an abnormality happened last time it would be a red "OK".
IE: a failing auto-iris would give a red "OK".
Possible solutions:
Try putting the auto-iris to off.
Try to re-sit the lamp
If none of these work, it could be a bad ballast
I'm copying a link to the Service Manual that may help.
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/76...0u.html#manual
Well, unfortunately it happened again and more unfortunately the hidden menu is not showing my anything.

Watched a movie with my daughter on Friday night and had no problems for 2.5 hours.

Sunday night watched some Netflix and about 30 minutes in the projector simply went into shutdown mode again. As I mentioned before it powers right back on (and worked flawlessly for another hour) but this time I made sure to go into the hidden self check as soon as it came back on. As you can see in the attachment, there is NO indication of anything that failed. Hmmm...
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post #5875 of 5994 Old 10-16-2018, 11:10 AM
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Well, unfortunately it happened again and more unfortunately the hidden menu is not showing my anything.

Watched a movie with my daughter on Friday night and had no problems for 2.5 hours.

Sunday night watched some Netflix and about 30 minutes in the projector simply went into shutdown mode again. As I mentioned before it powers right back on (and worked flawlessly for another hour) but this time I made sure to go into the hidden self check as soon as it came back on. As you can see in the attachment, there is NO indication of anything that failed. Hmmm...
Did you try setting off the auto-iris?
Did you re-seat the lamp?
If yes, then, the balast could be the cause.
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post #5876 of 5994 Old 10-16-2018, 11:20 AM
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Did you try setting off the auto-iris?
Did you re-seat the lamp?
If yes, then, the balast could be the cause.
Those are the next steps. Stay tuned! Thanks.
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post #5877 of 5994 Old 10-16-2018, 11:24 AM
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Question for the two of you that bought from B&H, does the carrier have the part numbers like this pic I took of the one on the right?




Also on the end of the bulb is there a white piece with the word "Ushio" written on it or just the positive "pin"?

It came triple-boxed. The outside was a big one with lot of air cushions and the interior box has the Panasonic logo. Inside came a Panasonic instruction paper, the lamp and its filter. Tonight, when I get home, I'll look and will report.
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post #5878 of 5994 Old 10-16-2018, 12:30 PM
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It came triple-boxed. The outside was a big one with lot of air cushions and the interior box has the Panasonic logo. Inside came a Panasonic instruction paper, the lamp and its filter. Tonight, when I get home, I'll look and will report.

Thanks I'd love to get it clarified once and for all to make it easier for everyone to spot fakes. There's TONS of listings out there including Amazon that are claiming "genuine" that are FAR from it.
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post #5879 of 5994 Old 10-16-2018, 01:05 PM
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I think the best indications of genuine Panasonic Lamps, not clones, is:

-Panasonic will not sell just the raw lamp but only the entire plastic housing which makes swapping old for new a breeze [no soldering, etc.]
-Panasonic have the word Panasonic on their box in their (usually blue) trademark font logo
-Panasonic always come with a spare air filter and it should be swapped each time you swap your bulb even if the old one seems fine (clean), as per their instructions.
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Last edited by m. zillch; 10-16-2018 at 07:12 PM.
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post #5880 of 5994 Old 10-16-2018, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by ferbal View Post
It came triple-boxed. The outside was a big one with lot of air cushions and the interior box has the Panasonic logo. Inside came a Panasonic instruction paper, the lamp and its filter. Tonight, when I get home, I'll look and will report.

B&H lamp: the carrier HAVE the part numbers and on the end of the bulb there is JUST the positive "pin" This is a legit Panasonic lamp.
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