Official Owners' Thread, Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Page 198 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Forum Jump: 
 1051Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #5911 of 5964 Old 03-29-2019, 06:44 AM
Advanced Member
 
SirMaster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 526
Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 435 Post(s)
Liked: 253
Quote:
Originally Posted by theaterofpain View Post
I can't believe this thread is still going... had an 8000 over six years ago... been through two other projectors since. I can't believe people are still running this offset lense artifact in 2019.
What does that even mean offset lens artifact?

I still have my 8000U after 6 years and it still looks great. I never noticed any artifacts.

I don't have any green tint, but I have it calibrated and it the color looks great.
ferbal and HT Geek like this.
SirMaster is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #5912 of 5964 Old 03-29-2019, 07:06 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,562
Mentioned: 56 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 768 Post(s)
Liked: 365
Quote:
Originally Posted by cr136124 View Post
It is Friday! So, here is your crazy question of the day:
 
Are you using a 2.35:1 aspect ratio fixed screen?
Yes.

Quote:
If yes, after you setup lens memory for 2.35:1 and 16:1 aspect ratios, are you experiencing over-spill at the top and bottom of the screen for 2.35:1?
No.

Quote:
So, what are you doing to eliminate that over-spill when the projector is zooming out to fill the 2.35:1 screen? See picture attached to illustrate the over-spill I’m referring to. Thanks in advance for your comments.
Lens shift, Zoom, and Lens Memory. I have forgotten the order. I'm thinking it's set the 2.35:1, save memory; then adjust 16:9, save memory. I could be wrong re: order. It's been awhile since I set mine up. It's not difficult tho. Toughest part for me was testing the lens memory auto-zoom in/out. I had to dig thru my DVD collection to verify I was using correct content sizes. This feature was a big selling point for these PJ's (and still is).

In the English Owner's Manual, look at pages 24-25 and 73-76. You MIGHT also find the POSITION menu items helpful (pp. 60-61), but I would recommend avoiding them if possible as it starts to make the adjustments confusing and more difficult to line up just right. Try and align it with the LENS CONTROL menu (pp. 73-76) before you consider using the POSITION menu items.


------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
My HT build: The Final Frontier

Quiet Glue: Why Not to Use It
HT Geek is offline  
post #5913 of 5964 Old 03-29-2019, 07:27 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
deano86's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 2,404
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 628 Post(s)
Liked: 312
I am a bit confused as to what problem you are having?... because if your source image is indeed 2.35:1 then you shouldn't have any real image spillage when using that lens memory setting. The spillover should only be just black bars with actual movie source material. Of course, you are going to have spillover with your built in projector test image......... but if indeed you want to eliminate any offending image, just use the masking feature....although the lower masking feature may not be totally effective due to the vertical offset needed to display your 2.35:1 image. The upper, right and left masking settings should be very effective though..
Archaea likes this.
deano86 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #5914 of 5964 Old 03-29-2019, 08:30 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
cr136124's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,619
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 109 Post(s)
Liked: 711
Quote:
Originally Posted by HT Geek View Post

Lens shift, Zoom, and Lens Memory. I have forgotten the order. I'm thinking it's set the 2.35:1, save memory; then adjust 16:9, save memory. I could be wrong re: order. It's been awhile since I set mine up. It's not difficult tho. Toughest part for me was testing the lens memory auto-zoom in/out. I had to dig thru my DVD collection to verify I was using correct content sizes. This feature was a big selling point for these PJ's (and still is).
You are correct, that is the order as per the official video at YouTube from Panasonic. I followed up those steps and everything is working fine. The PJ is sensing and using lens memory correctly depending on the movie's aspect ratio. Pretty cool seeing this in action. I'm just late to the party as I compromised with a 16:9 fixed screen (way back when I purchased this projector) and I just recently took advantage on a 2.35.1 fixed screen. But, the only thing is that overspill, I'm referring to.



Quote:
Originally Posted by HT Geek View Post

In the English Owner's Manual, look at pages 24-25 and 73-76. You MIGHT also find the POSITION menu items helpful (pp. 60-61), but I would recommend avoiding them if possible as it starts to make the adjustments confusing and more difficult to line up just right. Try and align it with the LENS CONTROL menu (pp. 73-76) before you consider using the POSITION menu items.
Yeah, I tried to avoid doing more changes and tried to keep this as simple as possible. But, I wasn't sure if something else was missed at my end. Yet, let me go back and check this again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by deano86 View Post
I am a bit confused as to what problem you are having?... because if your source image is indeed 2.35:1 then you shouldn't have any real image spillage when using that lens memory setting.
There is no image overspill, the image is only at the 2.35:1 screen, the overspill I'm referring to is "light" at the top and bottom of the screen edges. Let me try to share a picture of exactly what is the ligth overspill I'm referring to.



Quote:
Originally Posted by deano86 View Post
The spillover should only be just black bars with actual movie source material. Of course, you are going to have spillover with your built in projector test image......... but if indeed you want to eliminate any offending image, just use the masking feature....although the lower masking feature may not be totally effective due to the vertical offset needed to display your 2.35:1 image. The upper, right and left masking settings should be very effective though..
Good news here, as explained above, I don't have overspill on image and therefore, no masking was required at all.
cr136124 is offline  
post #5915 of 5964 Old 03-29-2019, 08:40 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
cr136124's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,619
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 109 Post(s)
Liked: 711
Not the best picture in the world, but hopefully you should be a able to see that below the black frame of the screen light is still projected (no image just light)




Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
cr136124 is offline  
post #5916 of 5964 Old 03-29-2019, 09:32 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,562
Mentioned: 56 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 768 Post(s)
Liked: 365
Quote:
Originally Posted by cr136124 View Post
Not the best picture in the world, but hopefully you should be a able to see that below the black frame of the screen light is still projected (no image just light)
Thanks for the photo. Now, we are getting somewhere. I know what that is.

So... do you want the good news first or the bad news? LoL.

The cone of imaging goodness that spews out of the AE8000 lens is shaped in the 16:9 format. There is no way to change that. So, as @deano86 mentioned, if you don't like that bottom bar effect, you may attempt to mask it. Now, the bad news.... the AE8000 is rather limited in its capabilities of "correcting" that problem. It seems to me that Panasonic thinks that is a feature, not a bug per se.

Getting back to how the PJ projects an image for a moment.... Your starting point is no matter what your screen looks like or how the image on the screen appears to you, what is actually happening is it is projecting a 16:9 image. In order to use all the real estate of your screen in 2.35:1 mode, you have to project a giant 16:9. The net effect is in order to get the width you want for 2.35:1, you end up with an image that is too tall. So, you can either a) live with it (overscan top and bottom), or b) make some adjustments to crop the top and bottom of that 16:9 image. Now, you won't actually see an image like a movie image in those top/bottom sections, but that is only because (and presuming) you are projecting 2.35:1 content. This is why you need real test material that is in the proper aspect ratio, so you can see where those black bars are while you are making the following adjustments. You have the same problem I had - the PJ's black is not quite "black enough" and therefore, you notice the letterbox areas and it bothers you. If you couldn't see them, we wouldn't be having this discussion because you wouldn't care. Am I right? Thing is... if you were to project a 16:9 image with the PJ focused as such, you'd get the top and bottom of the image (or one or the other... more on that in a moment) projecting on your wall. Or you might have cropped it out totally, in which case you'd only see part of the image (missing top and/or bottom bits). That's no fun either, obviously; thus, why lens memory comes into play and even better, the AE8000's ability to auto-detect content aspect ratio and auto-switch the lens focusing.

Anyway, on to the point of fixing it. The problem you're going to run into is whether or not you CAN adjust it to your satisfaction without having to physically re-locate the PJ. Hate to mention that, but why I said this part is the proverbial "bad" news. Try using a combination of the following to adjust the center of the image, and the masking of the top and bottom black bars:

1. Physical tilt of the PJ
2. Lens shift adjustments (up/down)
3. POSSIBLY try using the POSITION adjustments, but those are normally only useful for fine tuning

If you can't get it lined up with numbers 1 and 2, then almost undoubtedly you will need to physically move the PJ. If you need to do that, make sure you consult the tables in the owner manual on pages
22-23.

My experience has been it's easier to pick either the top or bottom and use the lens control (coarse adjustment) to crop it in that way (moving the mask in opposite direction).

I hope that's helpful. If your PJ is OK in terms of physical location, it should take you no more then 1/2 hour of tinkering (probably a lot less).

EDIT: Point of clarification of above.... in the event you need to physically move the PJ, it is the vertical adjustment that would be the issue (moving it lower, closer to the floor... presuming you have it ceiling mounted, which I forgot to ask).

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
My HT build: The Final Frontier

Quiet Glue: Why Not to Use It

Last edited by HT Geek; 03-29-2019 at 09:35 AM.
HT Geek is offline  
post #5917 of 5964 Old 03-29-2019, 11:09 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
cr136124's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,619
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 109 Post(s)
Liked: 711
Quote:
Originally Posted by HT Geek View Post
Thanks for the photo. Now, we are getting somewhere. I know what that is.

So... do you want the good news first or the bad news? LoL.
First: no, thanks to you! I highly appreciate your detail response and for sharing your experience!
Second: good and bad news..........LOL

Quote:
Originally Posted by HT Geek View Post
The cone of imaging goodness that spews out of the AE8000 lens is shaped in the 16:9 format. There is no way to change that. So, as @deano86 mentioned, if you don't like that bottom bar effect, you may attempt to mask it. Now, the bad news.... the AE8000 is rather limited in its capabilities of "correcting" that problem. It seems to me that Panasonic thinks that is a feature, not a bug per se.
Bingo! At least I know it is not something I'm doing wrong, but instead just the way this projector was designed to work.

Therefore, no matter what I do it will projecting a 16:9 image that is zoomed out to fill up the 2.35:1 screen.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HT Geek View Post
Getting back to how the PJ projects an image for a moment.... Your starting point is no matter what your screen looks like or how the image on the screen appears to you, what is actually happening is it is projecting a 16:9 image. In order to use all the real estate of your screen in 2.35:1 mode, you have to project a giant 16:9. The net effect is in order to get the width you want for 2.35:1, you end up with an image that is too tall.
Exactly! I was thinking about this before (sorry I didn't mention at my original post) as this projector has an aspect ratio setup and it is once again limited to either 16:9, S16:9s, 14:9, 4:3, etc., but there is no 2.35:1 aspect ratio to select. So, as you said image projected will be too tall if the aspect ratio of the image projected is 2.35:1.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HT Geek View Post
So, you can either a) live with it (overscan top and bottom), or b) make some adjustments to crop the top and bottom of that 16:9 image. Now, you won't actually see an image like a movie image in those top/bottom sections, but that is only because (and presuming) you are projecting 2.35:1 content. This is why you need real test material that is in the proper aspect ratio, so you can see where those black bars are while you are making the following adjustments. You have the same problem I had - the PJ's black is not quite "black enough" and therefore, you notice the letterbox areas and it bothers you. If you couldn't see them, we wouldn't be having this discussion because you wouldn't care. Am I right?
You are spot on! I was so happy to see the projector doing its magic on auto-detect the different aspect ratios and automatically adjusting the image based on the memory lens. But then, I just start noticing that "overscan" at the top and bottom (outside the boundaries) of my screen.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HT Geek View Post
Thing is... if you were to project a 16:9 image with the PJ focused as such, you'd get the top and bottom of the image (or one or the other... more on that in a moment) projecting on your wall. Or you might have cropped it out totally, in which case you'd only see part of the image (missing top and/or bottom bits). That's no fun either, obviously; thus, why lens memory comes into play and even better, the AE8000's ability to auto-detect content aspect ratio and auto-switch the lens focusing.
Correct, I have a Vudu account and I have a couple of movies with different aspect ratios that I used to test the auto-detect function and indeed I can see how the 16:9 image is project at the wall until the PJ detects and applies the 16:9 memory.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HT Geek View Post
Anyway, on to the point of fixing it. The problem you're going to run into is whether or not you CAN adjust it to your satisfaction without having to physically re-locate the PJ. Hate to mention that, but why I said this part is the proverbial "bad" news. Try using a combination of the following to adjust the center of the image, and the masking of the top and bottom black bars:

1. Physical tilt of the PJ
2. Lens shift adjustments (up/down)
3. POSSIBLY try using the POSITION adjustments, but those are normally only useful for fine tuning

If you can't get it lined up with numbers 1 and 2, then almost undoubtedly you will need to physically move the PJ. If you need to do that, make sure you consult the tables in the owner manual on pages
22-23.
1 and 2 have been used already to center the image projected at the screen. I did check that table and my PJ / screen are within the parameters required.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HT Geek View Post
My experience has been it's easier to pick either the top or bottom and use the lens control (coarse adjustment) to crop it in that way (moving the mask in opposite direction).
The one that distract me the most is the bottom. So, let me give it a try.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HT Geek View Post
I hope that's helpful. If your PJ is OK in terms of physical location, it should take you no more then 1/2 hour of tinkering (probably a lot less).

EDIT: Point of clarification of above.... in the event you need to physically move the PJ, it is the vertical adjustment that would be the issue (moving it lower, closer to the floor... presuming you have it ceiling mounted, which I forgot to ask).
Thanks a lot! Your post has been very beneficial to me. Let me look for a picture of the room and you should be able to see the PJ is actually mounted at a wall pedestal.
cr136124 is offline  
post #5918 of 5964 Old 03-29-2019, 11:14 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
cr136124's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,619
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 109 Post(s)
Liked: 711
@HT Geek here is a picture that hopefully will help you to see my current setup.



Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
cr136124 is offline  
post #5919 of 5964 Old 03-29-2019, 12:13 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,562
Mentioned: 56 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 768 Post(s)
Liked: 365
Quote:
Originally Posted by cr136124 View Post
@HT Geek here is a picture that hopefully will help you to see my current setup.
Just eyeballing, it looks like your PJ is at an OK height. I neglected to mention in my last post that Panasonic's guidance on vertical shift of the PJ is from the center of the screen and not the edge. This particular point is really important, but that fact is not explicitly mentioned in the manual, IIRC. That normally translates to a leeway of a few inches at best above the top of the screen.


Quote:
Originally Posted by cr136124 View Post
Therefore, no matter what I do it will projecting a 16:9 image that is zoomed out to fill up the 2.35:1 screen.

Exactly! I was thinking about this before (sorry I didn't mention at my original post) as this projector has an aspect ratio setup and it is once again limited to either 16:9, S16:9s, 14:9, 4:3, etc., but there is no 2.35:1 aspect ratio to select. So, as you said image projected will be too tall if the aspect ratio of the image projected is 2.35:1.
Right. The equipment inside the PJ can only do 16:9, so when you see a different size image it is due to the focusing or adjusting of that image via Zoom/Focus and positional adjustments of a masking system. The lever you've played with that shifts the image up/down and left/right is actually just moving that mask around, or perhaps better stated as it's moving around a filter that blocks part of the projected 16:9 image in order to give you the result you would prefer.

That's why your 2.35:1 image is really a 16:9 image, with the top and bottom bits blocked off. I am oversimplifying the process, but hopefully that makes sense conceptually.

So, now seeing your whole room.... Another option would be to lower your PJ a bit. It does not look to me like you should need to, but bear that in mind as a last resort. If you do, drop it a good 6 inches or more if that is feasible so you only need to do it one time. If your PJ is at or below the height of the very top of the screen, then that is not the source of the problem. No sense in going to that trouble if it is not going to provide a benefit.

PJ looks like it's only about 11-12 feet or so from the screen, but I can't tell for sure. What are your throw distance and screen size (LxW)?

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
My HT build: The Final Frontier

Quiet Glue: Why Not to Use It
HT Geek is offline  
post #5920 of 5964 Old 03-29-2019, 12:24 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
deano86's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 2,404
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 628 Post(s)
Liked: 312
@cr136124 ....
OK, now I get what you talking about... your 1st example photo was very misleading.... at any rate, like others have said, you are seeing the remnant of the projector's native display 16:9 ratio.... I have light absorbing black velvet all around and extending outward from my projector screen, so this "spillage" is not really visable...not to mention in my mancave I am able to run on Eco lamp mode... this combined with making sure your "brightness" or black level settings are set at the proper level by using a PLUGE test pattern will really help tame this effect also...
deano86 is offline  
post #5921 of 5964 Old 03-29-2019, 02:04 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
cr136124's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,619
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 109 Post(s)
Liked: 711
Quote:
Originally Posted by HT Geek View Post
Just eyeballing, it looks like your PJ is at an OK height. I neglected to mention in my last post that Panasonic's guidance on vertical shift of the PJ is from the center of the screen and not the edge. This particular point is really important, but that fact is not explicitly mentioned in the manual, IIRC. That normally translates to a leeway of a few inches at best above the top of the screen.
Thanks again!

Gotcha. The PJ's center of the lens is about 12" above the center of my new screen. So, it seems that shouldn't be an issue. Do you agree?

Quote:
Originally Posted by HT Geek View Post
Right. The equipment inside the PJ can only do 16:9, so when you see a different size image it is due to the focusing or adjusting of that image via Zoom/Focus and positional adjustments of a masking system. The lever you've played with that shifts the image up/down and left/right is actually just moving that mask around, or perhaps better stated as it's moving around a filter that blocks part of the projected 16:9 image in order to give you the result you would prefer.

That's why your 2.35:1 image is really a 16:9 image, with the top and bottom bits blocked off. I am oversimplifying the process, but hopefully that makes sense conceptually.
Yes, it does make sense.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HT Geek View Post
So, now seeing your whole room.... Another option would be to lower your PJ a bit. It does not look to me like you should need to, but bear that in mind as a last resort. If you do, drop it a good 6 inches or more if that is feasible so you only need to do it one time. If your PJ is at or below the height of the very top of the screen, then that is not the source of the problem. No sense in going to that trouble if it is not going to provide a benefit.
Yes, I don't want to bring the PJ anything lower than the current position. Specially as you can see above it is only 12" above the center of the screen. So, I don't think that is the source of the problem too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HT Geek View Post
PJ looks like it's only about 11-12 feet or so from the screen, but I can't tell for sure. What are your throw distance and screen size (LxW)?

It is actually 15 feet away (PJ's lens to screen) and the screen size is 49.8" H x 110.6" W (or 115" diagonal)


Quote:
Originally Posted by deano86 View Post
@cr136124 ....
OK, now I get what you talking about... your 1st example photo was very misleading.... at any rate, like others have said, you are seeing the remnant of the projector's native display 16:9 ratio....
Oops, sorry about the original picture. It was meant just to illustrate the extending portion (outside the screen) the PJ was still projecting light..........not image. Glad we are now at the same page.


Quote:
Originally Posted by deano86 View Post
I have light absorbing black velvet all around and extending outward from my projector screen, so this "spillage" is not really visable...not to mention in my mancave I am able to run on Eco lamp mode... this combined with making sure your "brightness" or black level settings are set at the proper level by using a PLUGE test pattern will really help tame this effect also...
Well, my room is not a fully dedicated HT, but instead a multi-purpose room / home office. So, trying to add an absorbing black velvet doesn't pass WAF.

Most of the time we are watching movies at night, so I do also use Eco on the lamp, but I'll follow your advice and calibrate brightness and black levels.

Thanks for your feedback too!
cr136124 is offline  
post #5922 of 5964 Old 03-29-2019, 03:33 PM
AVS Forum Addicted Member
 
Archaea's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 11,085
Mentioned: 613 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3798 Post(s)
Liked: 3586
I don’t agree with some of the advice being given here, it flat out isn’t right.

The joystick on the front of the unit isn’t to move the masking. The joystick is to help offset the whole projector image throw when your projector isn’t mounted center of projector screen.

You cannot have your projector mounted geographically above the screen border and still have the auto zoom and focus and masking overthrow functions as intended — rather as another poster stated -- you have to have the projector actually be mounted lower than the top of the projection screen to use it properly. That's in the manual. The outside requirements changes a bit with throw distance - but inside the projector screen's physical dimension of height is required. I had to lower my projector ceiling mount with a longer pole to make it work - and struggled at first trying to make it work otherwise.

You start out making your projector match vertically top and bottom with 16x9. Once that's done and saved, then you adjust scope using V-Area Position under the lens menu. You can't do scope first if you are mounted close to the outside limits of height. IT WON'T WORK. Period...

Worst yet - you’d never want to angle the physical projector chassis up or down to try to get the image on screen. That’s awful for focus uniformity -- actually, I take that back --- IT'S ABSOLUTELY AWFUL! Use a PC and throw some size 12 font (standard font size) text up on the projector and you'll see full well what I mean.
The lens should be in perfect vertical parallel to the projector screen. Anything else and your focus uniformity across your projected image will suffer bad.

Here are my instructions on how to set up the autofocus/autozoom properly on a AE8000U.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...l#post24731062
texpilot likes this.

Archaea's 9.8.4 Home Theater Room
(13) JBL CBT 70j-1 | Denon x7200wa | Sherbourn PA 7-350 amplifier | (8) Ultimax 18" sealed subwoofers | (4) iNuke DSP 6000 amplifiers | (4) MB Quart 12" subwoofers mounted direct mounted to Berkline theater chairs BOSS style | Epson 5040UB Projector | Jamestown 144" acoustic transparent 2.35:1 screen w/ Seymour XD fabric

Last edited by Archaea; 03-29-2019 at 04:25 PM.
Archaea is online now  
post #5923 of 5964 Old 03-29-2019, 03:45 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Dreamliner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 2,116
Mentioned: 23 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1393 Post(s)
Liked: 712
^correct.

Also, the black bars ‘doubling’ on the bottom is simply how the how the Panasonic projectors work and ‘spilling over’ the 2.35:1 screen is how all projectors work as they are 1.78:1/16x9 projectors *zooming* to fill a 2.35:1 screen. (The only exception is an Anamorphic lens, but the money is probably better spent on a better projector).
Dreamliner is online now  
post #5924 of 5964 Old 03-29-2019, 09:08 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
cr136124's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,619
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 109 Post(s)
Liked: 711
@Archaea

Thanks, I'll try your instructions tomorrow and I'll report back.
cr136124 is offline  
post #5925 of 5964 Old 03-29-2019, 10:39 PM
AVS Forum Addicted Member
 
Archaea's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 11,085
Mentioned: 613 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3798 Post(s)
Liked: 3586
@cr136124 ,
Your projector is mounted up right right, correct? On a shelf(not upside down on a ceiling mount?)

So you'll have potentially have to reverse the instructions for V-Area Position, - go into the negative numbers rather than positive numbers, but otherwise it should be similar.

Make sure and zero EVERYTHING out before you start
setup 16x9 first
then 2.35:1 - adjust to center via V-Area Position under Lens Menu, and enable masking on the 2.35:1 image. It's much eaiser to use a scope movie to adjust the 2.35:1 image. Pick something bright with easy clean edges to see.

good luck

At least it will be fairly easy for you to lower your shelf if that's required to help get your masking function into more thorough coverage.
texpilot likes this.

Archaea's 9.8.4 Home Theater Room
(13) JBL CBT 70j-1 | Denon x7200wa | Sherbourn PA 7-350 amplifier | (8) Ultimax 18" sealed subwoofers | (4) iNuke DSP 6000 amplifiers | (4) MB Quart 12" subwoofers mounted direct mounted to Berkline theater chairs BOSS style | Epson 5040UB Projector | Jamestown 144" acoustic transparent 2.35:1 screen w/ Seymour XD fabric
Archaea is online now  
post #5926 of 5964 Old 03-30-2019, 06:28 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
cr136124's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,619
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 109 Post(s)
Liked: 711
Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post
@cr136124 ,

Your projector is mounted up right right, correct? On a shelf(not upside down on a ceiling mount?)



So you'll have potentially have to reverse the instructions for V-Area Position, - go into the negative numbers rather than positive numbers, but otherwise it should be similar.



Make sure and zero EVERYTHING out before you start

setup 16x9 first

then 2.35:1 - adjust to center via V-Area Position under Lens Menu, and enable masking on the 2.35:1 image. It's much eaiser to use a scope movie to adjust the 2.35:1 image. Pick something bright with easy clean edges to see.



good luck



At least it will be fairly easy for you to lower your shelf if that's required to help get your masking function into more thorough coverage.
Yes, it is installed in a shelf and with projection method: front/desk (see picture attached).

Let me "initialize all"', I'll move the joystick to the center position and then I'll follow the steps you recommend.

The PJ's center of the lens is just above 12" above the center of the screen or 10" below the screen top border. So, as per the manual that is more than acceptable and I really don't want to lower the shelf/projector.





Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
cr136124 is offline  
post #5927 of 5964 Old 04-02-2019, 08:01 PM
AVS Forum Addicted Member
 
Archaea's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 11,085
Mentioned: 613 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3798 Post(s)
Liked: 3586
Well, I saw a deal on a Epson 5040UB today for $1150 and I jumped. It arrives in 4-6 days and I'll test it against my trusty Panasonic.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/199-f...l#post57846434

I've been fighting the itch to upgrade to a JVC after demoing a JVC RS600 in my room in 2017 (Amazing projector - but not without it's own nuances - which I wanted to wait a couple more generations and see if they fixed those - namely long signal lock times, lots of input lag, and slow memory zoom/focus). JVC has fixed the nuances with the RS-540, but they keep dragging their feet to bring true 4k prices down to the <$3k level, and it seems shortsighted to me to spend $3.5K range on a pixel shifter vs. a true 4K at this point. The price on the Epson is a steal, and will serve as a decent half step with the e-shift until I feel comfortable with the price of a true 4K machine. It'll also let the dust to settle around HDR, and HDMI 2.1 too - hopefully before I feel the need to upgrade again.

I suspect the Epson will feel like a decent step up from the Panasonic, but if it does not, then I can probably sell the Epson on ebay for more than I paid for it, so no real risk to try it.

My biggest concern with losing the Panasonic is the autozoom/focus against my 144" cinema scope screen (2.35:1) -- which NO OTHER MANUFACTORER has implemented (WHY NOT???). I still love that feature! Not having to juggle a remote and my movies just auto adjust perfectly to the desired playback size/zoom/focus is fantastic. I hope Panasonic re-enters the home projector market in a big way and releases something as strong as this AE8000U in the 4K resolution space, with autozoom and focus. I'd pick one up without question. This is my third Panasonic Projector and they've all been great to me!

Archaea's 9.8.4 Home Theater Room
(13) JBL CBT 70j-1 | Denon x7200wa | Sherbourn PA 7-350 amplifier | (8) Ultimax 18" sealed subwoofers | (4) iNuke DSP 6000 amplifiers | (4) MB Quart 12" subwoofers mounted direct mounted to Berkline theater chairs BOSS style | Epson 5040UB Projector | Jamestown 144" acoustic transparent 2.35:1 screen w/ Seymour XD fabric

Last edited by Archaea; 04-02-2019 at 08:08 PM.
Archaea is online now  
post #5928 of 5964 Old 04-02-2019, 10:34 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Dreamliner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 2,116
Mentioned: 23 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1393 Post(s)
Liked: 712
Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post
I've been fighting the itch to upgrade to a JVC after demoing a JVC RS600 in my room in 2017 (Amazing projector - but not without it's own nuances - which I wanted to wait a couple more generations and see if they fixed those - namely long signal lock times, lots of input lag, and slow memory zoom/focus). JVC has fixed the nuances with the RS-540, but they keep dragging their feet to bring true 4k prices down to the <$3k level, and it seems shortsighted to me to spend $3.5K range on a pixel shifter vs. a true 4K at this point.
Good luck with that. The JVC projectors and their black levels are awesome.

There are workarounds make the older JVC 4K e-Shift projectors amazing, namely a Panasonic UB820 with it's Dynamic Metadata feature. The only reason the automatic zoom/focus seemed slow to you is because it is mechanical on the JVC. JVC says the image quality is better that way because it keeps the light path centered on the lens, but I still prefer the simplicity of the AE8000. Although the clarity of the JVC lens is very obviously better. Back in 2013 I did a side-by-side comparison between a Panasonic AE-8000 & JVC RS46, even back then JVC was better...

Also, some side-by-side comparisons in 2016 showed JVC 4K e-shift projectors to be sharper than some of the native 4K Sony's and the black levels were loads better.

If you start watching 4K HDR Blu-ray discs and find them to be too dark, I strongly suggest you buy a UB820 and turn on SDR2020 in the settings. It will make 4K discs behave like HD discs, but with more color and clarity.

It's hard to argue with $1150, but that money would probably be better spent on a NX5/RS1000 (yes I know 4x the price, but it's also actually 4K and will keep your upgrade itch away much longer).
Dreamliner is online now  
post #5929 of 5964 Old 04-03-2019, 04:57 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,562
Mentioned: 56 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 768 Post(s)
Liked: 365
Quote:
Originally Posted by cr136124 View Post
Thanks again!

Gotcha. The PJ's center of the lens is about 12" above the center of my new screen. So, it seems that shouldn't be an issue. Do you agree?
Depends on what you mean by "center." Vertical center, yes. In which case that's not the issue. However, if you mean 12" vertically higher than the center of the top-most edge of the screen, then it's up too high.

The generally accepted recommendation is the center of the lens should be no higher than the top edge of your screen. I have found in practice you may be able to get a few inches above that at most (like 2 or 3 inches at the most), depending on several factors including the throw distance, screen mounting height, and PJ angle. Just remember it's center of top edge of screen height versus center of PJ lens height.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
My HT build: The Final Frontier

Quiet Glue: Why Not to Use It
HT Geek is offline  
post #5930 of 5964 Old 04-03-2019, 04:59 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,562
Mentioned: 56 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 768 Post(s)
Liked: 365
Quote:
Originally Posted by cr136124 View Post
The PJ's center of the lens is just above 12" above the center of the screen or 10" below the screen top border. So, as per the manual that is more than acceptable and I really don't want to lower the shelf/projector.
Yep. You're good in that regard. That's not the issue.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
My HT build: The Final Frontier

Quiet Glue: Why Not to Use It
HT Geek is offline  
post #5931 of 5964 Old 04-03-2019, 05:53 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
cr136124's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,619
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 109 Post(s)
Liked: 711
Quote:
Originally Posted by HT Geek View Post
Depends on what you mean by "center." Vertical center, yes. In which case that's not the issue. However, if you mean 12" vertically higher than the center of the top-most edge of the screen, then it's up too high.

The generally accepted recommendation is the center of the lens should be no higher than the top edge of your screen. I have found in practice you may be able to get a few inches above that at most (like 2 or 3 inches at the most), depending on several factors including the throw distance, screen mounting height, and PJ angle. Just remember it's center of top edge of screen height versus center of PJ lens height.
Yep, it is not higher than the top of edge of the screen. It is actually 10" lower than the top edge of the screen.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HT Geek View Post
Yep. You're good in that regard. That's not the issue.
Agree!



I also received this from Panasonic:

"The pictures show the installation and operation of the projector is normal. Although the source is providing a 2.35:1 signal, the projector’s output remains 16:9. The unused portion of the 16:9 image will remain lowly light from the black bars at the top and bottom of the image."

And that is exactly what I'm experiencing at home. So, at least I know there is nothing wrong with the PJ installation / lens memory setup. But, just the fact no matter what, the projector remains with a 16:9 output.

Thanks all for the support and guidance.
cr136124 is offline  
post #5932 of 5964 Old 04-03-2019, 06:10 AM
AVS Forum Addicted Member
 
Archaea's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 11,085
Mentioned: 613 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3798 Post(s)
Liked: 3586
Did you try the masking option in the projector GUI?

Archaea's 9.8.4 Home Theater Room
(13) JBL CBT 70j-1 | Denon x7200wa | Sherbourn PA 7-350 amplifier | (8) Ultimax 18" sealed subwoofers | (4) iNuke DSP 6000 amplifiers | (4) MB Quart 12" subwoofers mounted direct mounted to Berkline theater chairs BOSS style | Epson 5040UB Projector | Jamestown 144" acoustic transparent 2.35:1 screen w/ Seymour XD fabric
Archaea is online now  
post #5933 of 5964 Old 04-03-2019, 06:23 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
cr136124's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,619
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 109 Post(s)
Liked: 711
Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post
Did you try the masking option in the projector GUI?
Yes, but the masking cuts the image projected at the screen and keeps the overspill of light outside the screen (top and bottom). As mentioned by Panasonic the 16:9 projection remains.
cr136124 is offline  
post #5934 of 5964 Old 04-03-2019, 06:31 AM
AVS Forum Addicted Member
 
Archaea's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 11,085
Mentioned: 613 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3798 Post(s)
Liked: 3586
Quote:
Originally Posted by cr136124 View Post
Yes, but the masking cuts the image projected at the screen and keeps the overspill of light outside the screen (top and bottom). As mentioned by Panasonic the 16:9 projection remains.


Huh?

Use the masking only on your 2.35:1 overzoomed image to help cut off the black bar overspill. You won’t be able to block it all because of the height of your projector placement relative the center of the projector screen, but the GUI menu based masking will certainly help!

Note. Don’t use masking at all on your 16x9 ratio image.

Archaea's 9.8.4 Home Theater Room
(13) JBL CBT 70j-1 | Denon x7200wa | Sherbourn PA 7-350 amplifier | (8) Ultimax 18" sealed subwoofers | (4) iNuke DSP 6000 amplifiers | (4) MB Quart 12" subwoofers mounted direct mounted to Berkline theater chairs BOSS style | Epson 5040UB Projector | Jamestown 144" acoustic transparent 2.35:1 screen w/ Seymour XD fabric
Archaea is online now  
post #5935 of 5964 Old 04-03-2019, 06:31 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,562
Mentioned: 56 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 768 Post(s)
Liked: 365
Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post
I don’t agree with some of the advice being given here, it flat out isn’t right.

The joystick on the front of the unit isn’t to move the masking. The joystick is to help offset the whole projector image throw when your projector isn’t mounted center of projector screen.
Thanks for the clarification. Either way, that is the coarse adjustment for orienting the angle of the "cone" of light coming out of the PJ.

Glad you posted the other recs and your guide as well.

Quote:
... -- you have to have the projector actually be mounted lower than the top of the projection screen to use it properly. That's in the manual
Can you point to where that is in the manual? I don't see any mention of the top of the screen and PJ height in the manual that I have (English version). IMHO, the manual is confusing to begin with on this subject by virtue of how the information is conveyed, and its measurements for the portion we're discussing are misleading and incorrect. Panasonic does not explain the process properly, based on my interpretation of their manual. Perhaps I'm the one with the interpretation issue, but I don't think so given the fact this seems to be a common problem that AE8000 users encounter.

Allow me to illustrate. First, the manual's guidance on the height of the projector is relative to the bottom of the screen. So, if you are following the manual's guidance one needs to start the measuring there (versus the top which is obviously the concern of most people if ceiling mounting or otherwise trying to shoot the image over people's heads).

I'll give you an example. Let's say you have a 150" diagonal screen and you want to setup the AE8000 for dual duty 16:9 and 2.35:1, and use its Lens Memory feature for auto-zooming. Page 22 of the English manual I have shows several pictures at the top of the screen designed to illustrate how screens are measured and labels the measurements used in subsequent tables. The manual indicates the calculated vertical height range of the placement of the PJ is relative to the bottom edge of the screen.

In my example scenario, you have a 150" diagonal 2.35:1 screen. Therefore, its image area will be ~138" wide and ~59" tall. So, following Panasonic's manual and looking at the line for 150" screen, I see the range of positioning the PJ's lens relative to the bottom of the screen (chart on page 23) is -0.75 to +2.24 meters. So, let's convert those measurements to the same playing field. Converting the 59" height to cm, I get 150 cm. Since 2.24 m = 224 cm, according to the manual, I could position the center of my PJ lens as high as 74 cm above the top of the screen (224 - 150 = 74). That's 29". Clearly - based on experience - far from reality.

Personally... I was quite disappointed and annoyed with Panasonic over this. When I researched this PJ before purchase, I determined I could mount it higher than was actually possible due to the aforementioned characteristics of the PJ, as indicated in the manual. I did my homework, and was subsequently rewarded with disappointment - thanks to Panasonic's egregious error. I was in the same boat as the OP of this discussion. Anyone who hasn't run into this problem and is using the Lens Memory / dual display size feature is just plain lucky as far as I can tell. The manual seems (to me) a useless resource in this regard.

Quite frankly, it's so bad that folks should have had the right to return the PJ over this issue as it would have been a deal breaker for some, no doubt. Moot point at this time, but I'm just sayin'.

Am I mis-reading Panasonic's manual? Please enlighten me if I am, because the way my brain interprets their manual (and I've re-read it a number of times), it's wrong to the point of being a gross disservice to their customers. If I'm wrong, I'd like to know (and I'll stop bashing Panasonic, LoL).


Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post
^correct.

Also, the black bars ‘doubling’ on the bottom is simply how the how the Panasonic projectors work and ‘spilling over’ the 2.35:1 screen is how all projectors work as they are 1.78:1/16x9 projectors *zooming* to fill a 2.35:1 screen. (The only exception is an Anamorphic lens, but the money is probably better spent on a better projector).
I wouldn't say, "all." PJ's with native image displays that are not 1.78:1 do exist, though they are not the norm. An example: Barco Orion Cinemascope MKII (native 2.37:1). Of course, not that many people want to spend nearly $30k on a 1080p PJ.



Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Screenshot 2019-04-03 08.16.06.png
Views:	249
Size:	103.7 KB
ID:	2548210   Click image for larger version

Name:	Screenshot 2019-04-03 08.14.46.png
Views:	125
Size:	99.5 KB
ID:	2548212  
Attached Files
File Type: pdf manual excerpt.pdf (401.2 KB, 4 views)
texpilot likes this.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
My HT build: The Final Frontier

Quiet Glue: Why Not to Use It
HT Geek is offline  
post #5936 of 5964 Old 04-03-2019, 06:40 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,562
Mentioned: 56 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 768 Post(s)
Liked: 365
Quote:
Originally Posted by cr136124 View Post
I also received this from Panasonic:

"The pictures show the installation and operation of the projector is normal. Although the source is providing a 2.35:1 signal, the projector’s output remains 16:9. The unused portion of the 16:9 image will remain lowly light from the black bars at the top and bottom of the image."

And that is exactly what I'm experiencing at home. So, at least I know there is nothing wrong with the PJ installation / lens memory setup. But, just the fact no matter what, the projector remains with a 16:9 output.

Thanks all for the support and guidance.
Great that you reached out to Panny, and they responded. However, I just want to reiterate that you should be able to accomplish your goal. Many of us on this forum experienced the same issue you are and were able to get our PJ setup such that it functions as you desire. Perhaps I was a bit optimistic on how long it will take you to get it to that point the first time around, but with some patience and experimentation it can be done. Unfortunately, as mentioned in my post preceding this one, Panasonic's manual is very misleading and does a terrible job explaining the whole process (it doesn't) and limitations of the PJ (bad info in manual).

If you start over and use @Archaea 's guide linked in their post above, that should get you sorted (presuming nothing physically wrong with your PJ).
texpilot likes this.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
My HT build: The Final Frontier

Quiet Glue: Why Not to Use It
HT Geek is offline  
post #5937 of 5964 Old 04-03-2019, 06:42 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Mississauga, ON, Canada
Posts: 6,646
Mentioned: 126 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4654 Post(s)
Liked: 1726
Quote:
Originally Posted by HT Geek View Post
Allow me to illustrate. First, the manual's guidance on the height of the projector is relative to the bottom of the screen. So, if you are following the manual's guidance one needs to start the measuring there (versus the top which is obviously the concern of most people if ceiling mounting or otherwise trying to shoot the image over people's heads).

The illustrations in the manual assume the projector is shelf mounted (placed right side up). When you ceiling mount the projector (upside down), what the manual refers to as the “bottom edge” becomes the top edge.

Last edited by Dominic Chan; 04-03-2019 at 06:50 AM.
Dominic Chan is online now  
post #5938 of 5964 Old 04-03-2019, 06:53 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,562
Mentioned: 56 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 768 Post(s)
Liked: 365
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
The illustrations in the manual assumes the projector is shelf mounted (placed right side up). When you ceiling mount the projector (upside down), what the manual refers to as the “bottom edge” becomes the top edge.
Makes sense. Another example of how the manual is unclear. If that is true then one must flip the screen over as well and the top becomes the bottom.

Regardless, it doesn't alter the math equation significantly. The top of the screen becomes the bottom, and then one is using the alternate end of the vertical offset range. In my 150" screen example that still yields a maximum vertical physical offset of 0.75 meters or 29.5", so the math is actually almost identical and again the manual is wrong. Grossly wrong.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
My HT build: The Final Frontier

Quiet Glue: Why Not to Use It
HT Geek is offline  
post #5939 of 5964 Old 04-03-2019, 08:02 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Mississauga, ON, Canada
Posts: 6,646
Mentioned: 126 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4654 Post(s)
Liked: 1726
Quote:
Originally Posted by HT Geek View Post
Makes sense. Another example of how the manual is unclear. If that is true then one must flip the screen over as well and the top becomes the bottom.
You could do that, but it will mess up the mounting hardware and serve no purpose.

Quote:
Regardless, it doesn't alter the math equation significantly. The top of the screen becomes the bottom, and then one is using the alternate end of the vertical offset range. In my 150" screen example that still yields a maximum vertical physical offset of 0.75 meters or 29.5", so the math is actually almost identical and again the manual is wrong. Grossly wrong.
Those maximum offsets are for "16:9 in 2.35:1 size". In other words, if you have a 2.35:1 screen and mount the projector 29.5" higher than the screen top, you can still display a 16:9 image (zoomed to fit height) without cutting off the top or bottom of the image. It is when you zoom the image further to fit the width that you would run into the issue.

Last edited by Dominic Chan; 04-03-2019 at 08:15 AM.
Dominic Chan is online now  
post #5940 of 5964 Old 04-03-2019, 08:35 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,562
Mentioned: 56 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 768 Post(s)
Liked: 365
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
You could do that, but it will mess up the mounting hardware and serve no purpose.
I did not mean that literally. Perhaps I should have been clearer in my statement. I meant conceptually... or figuratively... if one inverts the projector image relative to the equations in the manual, then one must logically also invert the other side of the equation in question; i.e. flipping over the PJ means you have to (in your mind) flip over the screen as well, because in this case the algorithms demonstrating the image projection range above or below a fixed point are not reflexive. Therefore, when one part of the equation (PJ orientation) changes, one must also change the other parts of the equation (screen) in the same manner in order to maintain equilibrium.

One must visualize inverting the screen relative to the measurements in the manual, to coincide with flipping the PJ. I did not mean to infer one ought to physically invert the screen, which would obviously not make any sense since the resulting shape would be identical.


Quote:
Those offsets are for "16:9 in 2.35:1 size". In other words, if you have a 2.35:1 screen and mount the projector 29.5" higher than the screen top, you can still display 16:9 image (zoomed to fit height) without cutting off the top or bottom of the image. It is when you zoom the image further to fit the width that you would run into the issue.
I don't think so. Note the footnote in the manual on page 23.



"... switching between... on a 2.35:1 size screen."

If someone wanted to setup the PJ so it always projected a 2.35:1 image onto a 16:9 screen, they'd just need to follow the guidance for the 2.35:1 screen.

I believe this all underscores my point: this section of the user manual is absolutely awful. The fact we are even having this conversation to begin with underscores the manual's ambiguity (let alone downright incorrect information, IMHO). Panasonic needs to re-train some of its technical writers.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Screenshot 2019-04-03 10.10.02.png
Views:	129
Size:	99.7 KB
ID:	2548222  
texpilot likes this.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
My HT build: The Final Frontier

Quiet Glue: Why Not to Use It
HT Geek is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply Digital Hi-End Projectors - $3,000+ USD MSRP

Tags
contrast , Darbeevision Darblet Hdmi Video Processor , Epson 5020ub Powerlite Home Cinema 3d Front Projector , green , green blob , issue , Jvc Dla X35 3d Hd Front Projector , lcd , Panasonic Pt Ae4000u 1600 Lumen Lcd Home Theater Projector , Panasonic Pt Ae7000u 1080p Full Hd Projector , Panasonic Ptae8000u Hd Projector , polarizer , PT-AE8000 , PT-AT6000 , PT-AT6000E , Sony Vpl Hw50es 3d Projector

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off