Official Owners' Thread, Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Page 200 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #5971 of 5994 Old 08-28-2019, 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by 73shark View Post
You might check out Projector Lamp Experts Platinum bulb. I've used a couple of them and had over 3,000 hours on the current one and it's still going strong.

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Originally Posted by compaddict View Post
Projector Lamp Experts Platinum bulb installed and working great. Colors look so much better than the OEM bulb with over 11000 hours on it.

The original was five years old but took a 3000 hour break when I saw the inventory of 2kAE8000U for 2k dwindling and bought another.

Nothing odd to report. Will add more later.

Vince

I just picked one up... 394 Canadian pesos though
11000 hours has me intrigued

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post #5972 of 5994 Old 08-28-2019, 05:03 PM
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Yeah my panny is my TV. It racks up the hours!
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post #5973 of 5994 Old 08-31-2019, 02:16 AM
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I was wondering about the various picture modes, I've been using cinema 2 for quite a while i find generally ok, I have a lumagen mini the picture has been calibrated.

What's the popular choice amongst the users here?

I have to wonder if I should really be using rec709 as I mainly use this pj for bluray movies only?
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post #5974 of 5994 Old 08-31-2019, 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by sim10101 View Post
I was wondering about the various picture modes, I've been using cinema 2 for quite a while i find generally ok, I have a lumagen mini the picture has been calibrated.

What's the popular choice amongst the users here?

I have to wonder if I should really be using rec709 as I mainly use this pj for bluray movies only?
I use rec709 with settings I got from a projector review on sound and vision (I think) and I like how it looks. I am 11' back on a 117" Seymour UF screen.
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post #5975 of 5994 Old 09-01-2019, 08:45 AM
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Anyone else want to share their favourite movie picture mode ?
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post #5976 of 5994 Old 10-03-2019, 03:00 PM
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My unit has always had a convergence issue, but I neglected to send it back under warranty. It got slightly worse with time and I would like to take it apart to see if it's user adjustable, I found the service manual but it doesn't mention the option. Has anyone tried adjusting the convergence himself?

As a extra, has anyone managed to make their unit quieter?
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post #5977 of 5994 Old 10-03-2019, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by ceditaway View Post
My unit has always had a convergence issue, but I neglected to send it back under warranty. It got slightly worse with time and I would like to take it apart to see if it's user adjustable, I found the service manual but it doesn't mention the option. Has anyone tried adjusting the convergence himself?
As I understand it the R, G, and B panels are effectively "glued" together and hence are not individually adjustable, unlike on some pjs, even by a top level technician. All they can do is replace the entire optical block.

Note: There's an optical lens error called "chromatic aberration" which closely resembles panel mis-convergence to the user.


I photographed it once for one of my Pannies, posted it in this forum, and I discovered it varied greatly based on the amount of horizontal and vertical lens shift used. [The more shift the more error.]

Last edited by m. zillch; 10-03-2019 at 03:14 PM.
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post #5978 of 5994 Old 10-03-2019, 03:19 PM
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That's a bummer, I would rather spend money on a new projector than replacing the optical block. Here is what mine looks like with zero lens shift:



I might open it up still just to have some fun with it.
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post #5979 of 5994 Old 10-03-2019, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by ceditaway View Post
That's a bummer, I would rather spend money on a new projector than replacing the optical block. Here is what mine looks like with zero lens shift

I might open it up still just to have some fun with it.
Yes, that looks bad. Sorry.

Not sure but the amount of zoom used might come into play if it is optically based.

Good luck.
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post #5980 of 5994 Old 10-03-2019, 03:34 PM
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Your error does seem to be panel alignment though. I think chromatic aberration error is always in a straight line whereas your error is a zig zag.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original master, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
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post #5981 of 5994 Old 10-03-2019, 03:57 PM
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Yeah I'm all but certain you are right and it's unfixable.
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post #5982 of 5994 Old 10-03-2019, 04:20 PM
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I use cinema 2, and did the same adjusted settings according to a sound and vision review recommendation.

Mines got ascott 3300hrs, still pretty bright on the original globe after 5 years. Thou the last few months, I've noticed a focus issue, i can't seem to get the pana ae8000u focus right. Also finding lately that the lens memory is not keeping the correct output when it's in 16:9, but correct when zooming for scope.

Is there a focus tool other than the std focus screen with the cross lines?

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post #5983 of 5994 Old 10-04-2019, 02:57 AM
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Here is what it looks like on the inside: https://imgur.com/a/BMeQKfx

As you said, the LCDs are glued on to the prism assembly with some hard glue, the white thing you can see in the pictures used to hold the board from the black plastic support. I guess it would be reasonable to find a way to force it in/out a few microns to adjust for my error, if only I had a way to correct for it in real time. Eyeballing a fix, mounting it back and repeating 20 times is unreasonable, especially because I have no idea how many times the axis are inverted inside that optical system, so it would be a guessing game, really. As I write it I'm tempted to do it, I don't know...

I do wonder however how much of this problem is due to china optimising manufacturing times not letting the glue cure before taking it off the test/alignment rig.

Last edited by cedivad; 10-04-2019 at 03:01 AM.
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post #5984 of 5994 Old 10-04-2019, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by cedivad View Post
Here is what it looks like on the inside: https://imgur.com/a/BMeQKfx



As you said, the LCDs are glued on to the prism assembly with some hard glue, the white thing you can see in the pictures used to hold the board from the black plastic support. I guess it would be reasonable to find a way to force it in/out a few microns to adjust for my error, if only I had a way to correct for it in real time. Eyeballing a fix, mounting it back and repeating 20 times is unreasonable, especially because I have no idea how many times the axis are inverted inside that optical system, so it would be a guessing game, really. As I write it I'm tempted to do it, I don't know...
Don’t do it. That’s a fraction adjustment of more than 1000 fraction within the less than 2 centimeters. It would be pure luck to get it right, and even luckier to keep it right.



Quote:
I do wonder however how much of this problem is due to china optimising manufacturing times not letting the glue cure before taking it off the test/alignment rig.
I doubt they are depending on that to achieve panel alignment.






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post #5985 of 5994 Old 10-04-2019, 08:48 AM
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Yeah I'm all but certain you are right and it's unfixable.
You can fix everything, including this one. Read through a Google translator or any other.
http://diyprojector.info/forum/topic...00-nesvedenie/
http://diyprojector.info/forum/topic...390#entry47390
http://diyprojector.info/forum/topic...ogo-proektora/
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post #5986 of 5994 Old 10-16-2019, 11:53 AM
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I have to replace my lamp too, getting the warning message. Does the lamp dim over time, or does it just stop working? I tried to look up the platinum lamp mentioned but they don't have any it seems. I did see bh has the red lamp.

For most of the time I've had the projector, I've used the normal setting, sometimes cinema 2. A couple months ago I discovered on youtube an official HOW-TO on this particular projector, and now I feel like I have a new projector.


What really changed it was doing the advanced gamma setting for waveform monitor using the graphs in the projector. The video shows an adjustment that wasn't really showing the same on mine, But I lined up the lines pretty close, and suddenly my black levels were really black, and colors popping. Go to the picture menu, then advanced, the 15 point adjustment and do each color line, move the points over the line shown, and at least for me upgraded the picture and made the projector seem like a new projector. It's not as popping as my lg oled tv, but it remarkably comes close, and my screen is 150 inches diagonal. I chose one of the other rarely used presets to adjust so I wouldn't mess up anything major. I highly recommend watching the four part videos.

I didn't realize what the lens memory was for, but that is super awesome. I have an outdoor screen and it takes a bit of time to readjust focus, zoom etc, and now I can pick the projector up from my living room, take it to my spot outside, turn it on and push memory load and all the work is done, then I take it back and load the living room lens memory. Now when my son wants to watch and outdoor movie it's a yes, rather than an oh well, it's already late...

has anyone "upgraded" to a new projector from this one? My picture is awesome but was wondering how newer projectors are on the quality side.
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post #5987 of 5994 Old 10-16-2019, 12:03 PM
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I have to replace my lamp too, getting the warning message. Does the lamp dim over time, or does it just stop working?
Dims a lot over the first ~100 hrs [which is why it is best to not do any super serious, time consumming calibration until after that] and then gently dims very slowly after that.

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post #5988 of 5994 Old 10-16-2019, 01:49 PM
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So, now that I'm getting the replace lamp warning, does that mean my projector should be substantially dimmer from when it was brand new? Just trying to figure out what the difference is that I can expect when I put in the new bulb. If it's not noticeable I'll run the present lamp until it dies, or if it's much dimmer now and I can't tell because it's happened over time, then I'll replace the lamp sooner than later and not wait until it dies. It still has a good picture, but it would be nice to have it a bit brighter.
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post #5989 of 5994 Old 10-16-2019, 03:21 PM
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If it's not noticeable I'll run the present lamp until it dies,
I have to admit I've done this at times too, however be advised this is risky. The warning to replace the bulb is not just because the bulb's brightness is reduced but also because its likelihood of exploding has significantly grown at this point. There are some minimal protections in place to prevent shattered glass splinters from splattering onto the LCD panels but it is not a 100% bullet-proof thing. The circulating air system (fan cooling) can carry glass "dust" to places where it harms your projected image.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there IS no concept of "accounting for personal taste/preference". As art consumers we don't "pick" the level of bass, nor the tint/brightness of a scene's sky, any more than we pick the ending of a novel or Mona Lisa's type of smile. "High fidelity" means "high truthfulness", faithful to the original artist's intent: an unmodified, neutral, accurate copy of the original master, ideally being exact and with no discernable alterations, aka "transparency".
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post #5990 of 5994 Old 10-17-2019, 10:45 AM
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Ah! Thanks for the heads up. I noticed online that the air filter should be replaced at the same time. My old one dry rotted and I put some speaker grill cover in it's place to filter it somewhat, but I think the legit new lamps come with the air filter replacement. Would you suggest buying directly from Panasonic, or from bh photo? I want to get the actual lamp that came with my projector. Thanks for explaining earlier in this thread that "OEM" is not used in describing the legit original Panasonic lamps.

I'll get a new lamp pronto, I had an sharp xv-z2000 that had popped on a relatively new but third market lamp and besides scaring my silly, made a mess inside the projector and it took time to clean it out.
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post #5991 of 5994 Old 10-17-2019, 10:47 AM
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oh, wanted to mention, also earlier in this thread you had a link to a video you made on adjusting the waveform but the link wasn't working anymore.
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post #5992 of 5994 Old 10-17-2019, 11:53 AM
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Thanks. I have attempted to fix it. Does this now work?

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post #5993 of 5994 Old 10-17-2019, 12:00 PM
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B&H have always treated me well and the one time I had a shipping problem [UPS issue, not theirs] they seemed to bend over backwards putting a trace on it ASAP so I like their customer service.

Last time I looked into it, and things may change over time, Provantage and AGI [Audio General Inc.?] are/were also legit, warranty covered, real deal Panny bulb dealers.
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post #5994 of 5994 Old 10-18-2019, 10:24 AM
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Thanks!

That link works, great video, I'm going to calibrate tonight. I downloaded some test movies to use as I don't have HBO.

I wound up ordering the red rich lamp, I hope that's the right one, from bh photo.

This is a wonderful projector, but I'm curious if a newer one has a better image, or better enough to warrant the cost of a new projector. I have a 150 inch screen, and sit right in front of the projector at it's minimum throw distance for the screen size. The difference between my old sharp projector and this one is night and day.
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