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post #5611 of 6292 Old 01-15-2019, 08:05 PM
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Hello. I read the thread for this information, I see that speaker cloth seems to be the best "velvet" for AT purposes.

Herb here is showing that the 92% polyester / 8% Elastan stretch velvet is AT and also a good light drinker. I am leaning this direction but am concerned that NOBODY to my reading in this thread has used it. What am I missing?

Appreciate the help. Its not for my screen wall, but for large sound treatment panels around the room. Appreciate the help.



https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-sc...ck-velvet.html
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post #5612 of 6292 Old 01-15-2019, 08:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dlinsley View Post
Does anyone know how AT JR3 is?

I've finished building the frames to go around my screen - and am ready to wrap - but am wondering if instead of going for the pure velvet look I should use GoM for underneath the screen. I have 100% AT FR701 Onyx Black, which I used for my soffits (with insulation behind to act as small soffit traps) and will also be using it for the columns hiding my in-wall surrounds. My LCR are DIYSG Titan 615LX and IIRC the 15" driver covers up to just 300Hz. There are treatments behind my side walls, but I wasn't so concerned about 100% AT there.

BTW the original plan was to just use velvet for the first few feet, and then GoM Anchorage in Cobalt blue for the rest of the walls (and the GoM FR701 black for the 4 speaker columns), but my wife loves the look of the velvet and so had me go get another 38 yards at Joann's last week!


I had the same issue. I've ran "naked" subs for years but years ago decided to cover them with velvet covering and never even messed with measuring the difference. Subjectively there was zero difference.

So, I had the subs covered with velvet with speakers out in the room and covered the rest of the front wall with velvet. No biggie since I didn't have a AT screen yet.

Here is an old pictrue that shows the half way point of the project - 1 stack of subs covered with velvet and the other not.







Fast forward a few years and I bought different LRC to go behind the screen. Now I had a problem... I didn't want to have any issues with the sound but I needed to cover up the speakers.











I wanted to use GOM. However, it is so much lighter than the JoAnn velvet that it looked terrible IMO. Here is a comparison of the velvet and the taped up sample of GOM:





So I bit the bullet and just covered the speakers in velvet. It wasn't too bad because only the bottom driver of each JBL 4722n was covered by the velvet.

I measured with my omnimic and the difference was roughly a 1.5 db drop between 400-800 hz, which is easily corrected either with auto EQ or manual so to me it's a no brainer.

Here are more recent pictures:








Since your drivers are only covering up to around 300hz you may not have any difference at all, like I said above I didn't see any change until 400hz up to around 800hz.
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post #5613 of 6292 Old 01-15-2019, 10:20 PM
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So I'm beginning my black velvet journey and I'm curious... after applying some velvet down, do non-velvet areas seem to stand out more? I don't have my wall + sides, 4-5 feet in fully covered yet, but it almost appears as if the areas not "treated" seem to be focal points... Am I headed down a dark path (pun kinda intended) As a side note, the darkness (so far) almost makes the projector's contrast feel a bit washed out.. I'm hoping it's because I haven't finished. It's a JVC RS40.
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post #5614 of 6292 Old 01-16-2019, 01:19 AM
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Yes, the less black areas will stand out. Overall reflections will be reduced though. I found a great improvement with contrast, but you will probably have to recalibrate your PJ.
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post #5615 of 6292 Old 01-16-2019, 01:48 AM
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seems like my theater fits the title of this thread
below is the link ..... floor is light color carpet and as you can see in pics its totally dark when all lights are down


https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-de...ans-added.html
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post #5616 of 6292 Old 01-16-2019, 09:32 AM
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It's a start anyway. :-P

I still haven't gotten around to giving my room the dark treatment. I was also still projecting on a wall with heavy orange peel. (Cringe worthy, I know.) That being said, I did just purchase a screen (ST 1.78:1 @ 150" diagonal) and for starters would like to go 4-5 feet out from the screen wall with black velvet. I had a quart of Rosco Supersaturated Black paint I bought last year though, so decided for now to paint a small shadow box which extends 2 feet out into the room. Results shown below.

Ready to be painted...


Before painting. (Projecting on bare wall. Painters tape being used as a frame.)


After painting. (Projecting on a ST 1.78:1 @ 150" diagonal.)


Color me impressed. The low reflective quality of this paint is most excellent. Even during brightly lit scenes the difference is dramatic. I'm finding the reflections that hit the ceiling and side walls far less distracting now. It's a start anyway. I have all sorts of plans for the room, but that pesky thing called "life" keeps getting in the way.
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post #5617 of 6292 Old 01-16-2019, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Profile View Post
I still haven't gotten around to giving my room the dark treatment. I'm also still projecting on a wall with heavy orange peel. (Cringe worthy, I know.) That being said, I did purchase a screen (1.78:1, 150" diagonal) which gets delivered tomorrow. Ultimately I'd like to go 4-5 feet out from the screen wall with black velvet. I had a quart of Rosco Supersaturated Black paint I bought last year though, so decided to paint a small shadow box which extends 2 feet out into the room.

...

Color me impressed. (Not the best before and after pics, but it sort of gives you an idea.) The low reflective quality of this paint is most excellent. Even during brightly lit scenes the difference is dramatic, so much so that I no longer find the reflections distracting that hit the ceiling and side walls. It's a start anyway. I have all sorts of plans for the room, but that pesky thing called "life" keeps getting in the way.
I am also a big fan of creating a recessed space for the screen, and have done so on my last two projects. I like finishing it off with false curtains or false walls to give a more theatrical look and clean transition to the room proper.
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post #5618 of 6292 Old 01-16-2019, 12:14 PM
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I know this has been asked a few times. But what is a cheap ways to build panels for hanging wrapped velvet panels? I have seen people using cheap 1/4" board then stapling it on the back side but my lowes/home depot does not sell anything at 1/4" for under 20 bucks a sheet. What are some other alternatives? I would like to do some 2' x 4' panels or some other configuration possibly. I see cardboard/posterboard.



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post #5619 of 6292 Old 01-16-2019, 12:19 PM
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I just finished my custom masking panels for my 16:9, 92" Stewart ST100 screen as a part of my velvet blacking project. All I can say is WOW. What an improvement when you don't see gray bars anymore. I made a single masking panel for the bottom part then shift the projector lens up to mask the top portion with the velvet on the frame + wall + ceiling. The result is just amazing. I did use the Soprano Velvet leftovers from the walls + Hobby Lobby 40" x 60" white foam board. Then the back is finished with velvet contact paper from Amazon. I made 2.39:1, 2.0:1 and 1.85:1 masking bars.
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Media Room: Sierra Towers w/RAAL, Horizon w/RAAL, Sierra 2s & Lunas | Rythmik F12SE(x2) + FV25HP | Denon X6500H | Panny 820 + ATV 4K | Bluesound Node 2 | 92" Stewart ST100 | Sony VW295ES |
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post #5620 of 6292 Old 01-16-2019, 01:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carp View Post
So I bit the bullet and just covered the speakers in velvet. It wasn't too bad because only the bottom driver of each JBL 4722n was covered by the velvet.
I measured with my omnimic and the difference was roughly a 1.5 db drop between 400-800 hz, which is easily corrected either with auto EQ or manual so to me it's a no brainer.
Great post, thanks! Was the 1.5dB drop in relation to the uncovered speaker or the rest of the speaker behind the screen? If the former, then it may just even out with the AT screen hiding the two other drivers (which as you mentioned, for my lower driver it is just up to 300Hz so may not be any issue anyway).

BTW I eventually found lots of other posts in this thread, including one graph of measurements (I'll link later). I guess search was just busted on the back end for a while.
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post #5621 of 6292 Old 01-16-2019, 02:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carp View Post
I had the same issue. I've ran "naked" subs for years but years ago decided to cover them with velvet covering and never even messed with measuring the difference. Subjectively there was zero difference.

So, I had the subs covered with velvet with speakers out in the room and covered the rest of the front wall with velvet. No biggie since I didn't have a AT screen yet.

Here is an old pictrue that shows the half way point of the project - 1 stack of subs covered with velvet and the other not.

Fast forward a few years and I bought different LRC to go behind the screen. Now I had a problem... I didn't want to have any issues with the sound but I needed to cover up the speakers.


I wanted to use GOM. However, it is so much lighter than the JoAnn velvet that it looked terrible IMO. Here is a comparison of the velvet and the taped up sample of GOM:

So I bit the bullet and just covered the speakers in velvet. It wasn't too bad because only the bottom driver of each JBL 4722n was covered by the velvet.

I measured with my omnimic and the difference was roughly a 1.5 db drop between 400-800 hz, which is easily corrected either with auto EQ or manual so to me it's a no brainer.

Since your drivers are only covering up to around 300hz you may not have any difference at all, like I said above I didn't see any change until 400hz up to around 800hz.

Thanks for this, and to @dlinsley for asking the question. I have been agonizing over the covering for my center speaker niche and putting off the build. I have the GOM FR701 and triple plush on hand and just have not been able to decide how to wrap the framing. With this encouragement I think I will proceed with just the velvet and run the auto-EQ/room correction and see how it works out. I can swap in GOM if it doesn't sound right.
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post #5622 of 6292 Old 01-16-2019, 04:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enricoclaudio View Post
I just finished my custom masking panels for my 16:9, 92" Stewart ST100 screen as a part of my velvet blacking project. All I can say is WOW. What an improvement when you don't see gray bars anymore. I made a single masking panel for the bottom part then shift the projector lens up to mask the top portion with the velvet on the frame + wall + ceiling. The result is just amazing. I did use the Soprano Velvet leftovers from the walls + Hobby Lobby 40" x 60" white foam board. Then the back is finished with velvet contact paper from Amazon. I made 2.39:1, 2.0:1 and 1.85:1 masking bars.
How do you have the panels mounted on the screen? Magnets?

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post #5623 of 6292 Old 01-16-2019, 05:06 PM
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How do you have the panels mounted on the screen? Magnets?
I was going to use rare magnets on the back of the screen and metal plates on the masking panels like the ones you put on the back of your cellphone but I made the panels wide enough that they fit very tight inside the frame and they stay in position without the need of magnets. I put the metal plates in one of the masking panels but took them away and returned them back to Amazon. Also the metal plate even it was covered by velvet was leaving marks on the screen fabric so got scared and took them away. That's also why I put velvet on the back so there is a soft surface in contact with the screen fabric. I kinda copy the idea from Seymour AV masking panels which BTW cost around $500.

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post #5624 of 6292 Old 01-16-2019, 06:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dlinsley View Post
Was the 1.5dB drop in relation to the uncovered speaker or the rest of the speaker behind the screen?

Thanks!

Hmmm not sure what you mean.

Here is what I did. I measured the speakaers individually with no velvet or AT screen between the mic (at the MLP) and the speakers and took an omnimic measurement. Next I put up the velvet and then the AT screen. The velvet only covered below the screen, so only the bottom driver on each speakers was "covered" by velvet. The top driver on each speaker and the compression driver were only blocked by the AT material, not by velvet. Then I measured the speakers again and each one was around 1-2 db's down from around 400 up to 800 db's. In my speakers the crossover is around 850 or 900 if memory serves between the drivers and the CD.

Does that make sense? This is what it looked like behind my screen without the velvet. As you can see I used 1.5 feet of insulation which really helped with acoustics and then covered the insulation with black backing and velvet so that there would be no reflection of light back on the screen.










I ended up putting velvet on the the entire front half of the room, both walls and ceiling. It's awesome on fade outs in movies, you literally can't see ANYTHING. Very cool. I also have velvet on the floor but I have found that in my room it didn't make that big of a differnce between having the first couple of feet covered compared to having 6 feet of carpet covered so I usually have the crown molding strip (it runs the width of the room and the velvet is stapled to it and another molding strip is butted against the speakers/subs on the front wall) rolled so that only the first couple of feet of carpet are covered.
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post #5625 of 6292 Old 01-16-2019, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottAvery View Post
Thanks for this, and to @dlinsley for asking the question. I have been agonizing over the covering for my center speaker niche and putting off the build. I have the GOM FR701 and triple plush on hand and just have not been able to decide how to wrap the framing. With this encouragement I think I will proceed with just the velvet and run the auto-EQ/room correction and see how it works out. I can swap in GOM if it doesn't sound right.
Yeah, I would definitley try the velvet first because it looks so much better. Let us know how it goes with auto EQ, I'm betting you will be just fine.

I hate to admit this but I like my speakers so much that when I was putting up the velvet at the bottom of the screen I said screw it and stapled the velvet to the speakers.

I have been through a LOT of speakers so I was confident that I won't be selling these any time soon and even if I did people don't care how these look because there is ZERO percent chance that they won't be hidden behind a screen.

That was over 2 years ago, and still not the slightest itch to switch speakers of even think about it so I think I'm good.
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post #5626 of 6292 Old 01-17-2019, 07:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpolachak View Post
I know this has been asked a few times. But what is a cheap ways to build panels for hanging wrapped velvet panels? I have seen people using cheap 1/4" board then stapling it on the back side but my lowes/home depot does not sell anything at 1/4" for under 20 bucks a sheet. What are some other alternatives? I would like to do some 2' x 4' panels or some other configuration possibly. I see cardboard/posterboard.



I have 90 yards showing up in the next 3 days!
I can share how I did mine. May not be for everybody, as it is temporary and will need to be taken down easily when we move.

Lightweight foam panels from Lowe's or HD. I think I used the 1/2" panels ~$8 ea
Cheap flat black paint $1 can (may not be necessary, but I wanted to darken the blinding white panel)
3m 77 spray adhesive $9
A jigsaw (boxcutter, electric knife etc... can also work)
A LOT of Command Strips (to enable taking down with no repair afterwards)
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post #5627 of 6292 Old 01-18-2019, 05:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enricoclaudio View Post
I was going to use rare magnets on the back of the screen and metal plates on the masking panels like the ones you put on the back of your cellphone but I made the panels wide enough that they fit very tight inside the frame and they stay in position without the need of magnets. I put the metal plates in one of the masking panels but took them away and returned them back to Amazon. Also the metal plate even it was covered by velvet was leaving marks on the screen fabric so got scared and took them away. That's also why I put velvet on the back so there is a soft surface in contact with the screen fabric. I kinda copy the idea from Seymour AV masking panels which BTW cost around $500.
So basically the board just is held by 3 sides of the frame (sides and bottom/top) where frame and screen meet? So it just pushes in and stays in? I thought about doing that but was afraid the foam board would break/crack. I'm sure its not the same as foam that comes with packages that breaks up when bend? Will have to try it!

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post #5628 of 6292 Old 01-18-2019, 06:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quickett View Post
I can share how I did mine. May not be for everybody, as it is temporary and will need to be taken down easily when we move.

Lightweight foam panels from Lowe's or HD. I think I used the 1/2" panels ~$8 ea
Cheap flat black paint $1 can (may not be necessary, but I wanted to darken the blinding white panel)
3m 77 spray adhesive $9
A jigsaw (boxcutter, electric knife etc... can also work)
A LOT of Command Strips (to enable taking down with no repair afterwards)

So I was considering doing something similar in terms of constructing a nice big panel out of foam board, but for aesthetic purposes I really need the panel to be easily taken on and off. Basically, I want to be able to "transform" the front of the room into blackout when needed but keep it lighter when the room is just being used as a rec-room.

The projection wall itself is already very dark, but the ceilings and side walls arent (or the floor).

For the ceiling, any ideas on how to create a system to attach it to the ceiling such that I can easily just hop on a chair and take it on or off? I was considering just having some screws in the ceiling and putting keyhole fasteners on the back of the panel:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...JCO02A8A&psc=1

For the side walls I can just have some small hooks up and then install grommets on some fabric and hang it up when needed. And for the floor I can just layout a big sheet of the velvet when needed.

All in I figure it would take maybe ~3-4 minutes to "transform" the room and be reasonably painless... anyone have any thoughts / ideas to improve?

Am also considering creating foam masking panels for my 16:9 screen, still considering how to get them to stay in place on my Silver-Ticket thin bezel
screen though.
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post #5629 of 6292 Old 01-18-2019, 06:07 AM
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Originally Posted by ereed View Post
So basically the board just is held by 3 sides of the frame (sides and bottom/top) where frame and screen meet? So it just pushes in and stays in? I thought about doing that but was afraid the foam board would break/crack. I'm sure its not the same as foam that comes with packages that breaks up when bend? Will have to try it!
My screen is pretty close to the ground (maybe 10" or so from the floor), I was considering creating a couple different blackout bars in a similar fashion w foam board, and just leaning them against the screen...is that insane? I could also probably create a "stand" of some sort by attaching legs to the board...

Or I could just mount some of these on the bezel of the screen (covered in black velvet) and also on the panels?

https://www.amazon.com/Powerful-Neod...+earth+magnets

Last edited by nputcha; 01-18-2019 at 06:30 AM.
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post #5630 of 6292 Old 01-18-2019, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by nputcha View Post
So I was considering doing something similar in terms of constructing a nice big panel out of foam board, but for aesthetic purposes I really need the panel to be easily taken on and off. Basically, I want to be able to "transform" the front of the room into blackout when needed but keep it lighter when the room is just being used as a rec-room.



The projection wall itself is already very dark, but the ceilings and side walls arent (or the floor).



For the ceiling, any ideas on how to create a system to attach it to the ceiling such that I can easily just hop on a chair and take it on or off? I was considering just having some screws in the ceiling and putting keyhole fasteners on the back of the panel:



https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...JCO02A8A&psc=1



For the side walls I can just have some small hooks up and then install grommets on some fabric and hang it up when needed. And for the floor I can just layout a big sheet of the velvet when needed.



All in I figure it would take maybe ~3-4 minutes to "transform" the room and be reasonably painless... anyone have any thoughts / ideas to improve?



Am also considering creating foam masking panels for my 16:9 screen, still considering how to get them to stay in place on my Silver-Ticket thin bezel

screen though.
There is somewhere in this forums a post of how to do it using foam and magnets and washers off Amazon. It was very clever

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post #5631 of 6292 Old 01-18-2019, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by jpolachak View Post
There is somewhere in this forums a post of how to do it using foam and magnets and washers off Amazon. It was very clever

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

did you mean this:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/174-d...e-masking.html

video seems like the got something really cool though unfortunately the pictures dont show up for me, tough to follow without his diagrams I think.
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post #5632 of 6292 Old 01-18-2019, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by ereed View Post
So basically the board just is held by 3 sides of the frame (sides and bottom/top) where frame and screen meet? So it just pushes in and stays in? I thought about doing that but was afraid the foam board would break/crack. I'm sure its not the same as foam that comes with packages that breaks up when bend? Will have to try it!
Yes, that is correct. The material I'm using is very strong. It's not easy to crack or break. Here is the link and you can go and look at it at your local Hobby Lobby store. It comes also in 40" x 30". I would recommend an X-Acto Heavy Duty Snap-Off Knife to cut it and also get a 48" ruler from Home Depot as a guide.

https://www.hobbylobby.com/Art-Suppl...-x-60/p/107595

https://www.amazon.com/ELMERS-X-Acto.../dp/B001MX9JOW

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Empire-4...4004/100118266
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post #5633 of 6292 Old 01-18-2019, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by jpolachak View Post
There is somewhere in this forums a post of how to do it using foam and magnets and washers off Amazon. It was very clever

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Quote:
Originally Posted by nputcha View Post
did you mean this:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/174-d...e-masking.html

video seems like the got something really cool though unfortunately the pictures dont show up for me, tough to follow without his diagrams I think.
@zombie10k masks? how macgyver would have built velvet masks..
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post #5634 of 6292 Old 01-18-2019, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by nputcha View Post
did you mean this:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/174-d...e-masking.html

video seems like the got something really cool though unfortunately the pictures dont show up for me, tough to follow without his diagrams I think.
The problem with rare magnets and metal plates is that they leaves marks on the screen surface so I DO NOT recommend using magnets. If you do only the bottom masking and shift the projector up, make the masking bar wide enough so it fits tight inside the screen and it won't move anywhere. My Stewart screen frame has a bit more than 1/4" recess so the foam + fabric fit perfectly.
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post #5635 of 6292 Old 01-18-2019, 09:34 AM
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Great post, thanks! Was the 1.5dB drop in relation to the uncovered speaker or the rest of the speaker behind the screen? If the former, then it may just even out with the AT screen hiding the two other drivers (which as you mentioned, for my lower driver it is just up to 300Hz so may not be any issue anyway).
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Originally Posted by carp View Post
Hmmm not sure what you mean. Here is what I did. I measured the speakaers individually with no velvet or AT screen between the mic (at the MLP) and the speakers and took an omnimic measurement. Next I put up the velvet and then the AT screen. The velvet only covered below the screen, so only the bottom driver on each speakers was "covered" by velvet. The top driver on each speaker and the compression driver were only blocked by the AT material, not by velvet. Then I measured the speakers again and each one was around 1-2 db's down from around 400 up to 800 db's. In my speakers the crossover is around 850 or 900 if memory serves between the drivers and the CD.
Thanks. My AT screen (v6 material) has about a 1.5dB drop, so should be similar to the velvet (except for any acoustic reflection difference). It's only 3 panels, so I'll try the velvet first.
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post #5636 of 6292 Old 01-18-2019, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by enricoclaudio View Post
The problem with rare magnets and metal plates is that they leaves marks on the screen surface so I DO NOT recommend using magnets. If you do only the bottom masking and shift the projector up, make the masking bar wide enough so it fits tight inside the screen and it won't move anywhere. My Stewart screen frame has a bit more than 1/4" recess so the foam + fabric fit perfectly.
ah yeah my silver ticket has almost no recess, so that's not really doable

Dumb question, given the frame of my screen is aluminum (with a thin layer of velvet on the edge), if my panels had magnets in them would that be strong enough to hold in place? (I could place the magnet such that it only touches the velvet part of the frame, not the screen material itself)

I am actually thinking if in fact the metal from the frame is enough to hold the magnet, I would just have the top edge of the panel be foam, and then just have fabric hanging down from it. That way I could have 1 panel and set it to whatever height is appropriate for the aspect ratio of a given movie, and some fabric would just be hanging off the bottom / on the floor sometimes. Is that ridiculous?
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post #5637 of 6292 Old 01-18-2019, 10:08 AM
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ah yeah my silver ticket has almost no recess, so that's not really doable

Dumb question, given the frame of my screen is aluminum (with a thin layer of velvet on the edge), if my panels had magnets in them would that be strong enough to hold in place? (I could place the magnet such that it only touches the velvet part of the frame, not the screen material itself)

I am actually thinking if in fact the metal from the frame is enough to hold the magnet, I would just have the top edge of the panel be foam, and then just have fabric hanging down from it. That way I could have 1 panel and set it to whatever height is appropriate for the aspect ratio of a given movie, and some fabric would just be hanging off the bottom / on the floor sometimes. Is that ridiculous?
As you may already know, aluminum is not magnetic so in your case you have to put the magnets behind the aluminum frame and steel plates on the masking bars. Rare magnets are very strong so they can traspass a 1/4" aluminum frame. The ones I got and returned are these:



https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And these are the steel plates that I got and returned as well. They work great with those magnets:



https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My Stewart screen frame has a hollow section where the thickness is only 1/8", that would be the best place to put the magnets.
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post #5638 of 6292 Old 01-18-2019, 10:22 AM
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As you may already know, aluminum is not magnetic so in your case you have to put the magnets behind the aluminum frame and steel plates on the masking bars. Rare magnets are very strong so they can traspass a 1/4" aluminum frame. The ones I got and returned are these:



https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And these are the steel plates that I got and returned as well. They work great with those magnets:



https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My Stewart screen frame has a hollow section where the thickness is only 1/8", that would be the best place to put the magnets.

Wow, I was an engineer in school but somehow never knew aluminum isn't magnetic! Haha learn something new ever day.

To continue my dumb questions, not sure I understand, how did the magnets end up leaving marks on the screen material? If the magnets themselves are mounted behind the frame and you only put the steel plates on the part of the mask that overlaps with the frame, neither would never touch the screen material itself..right?
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post #5639 of 6292 Old 01-18-2019, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by nputcha View Post
So I was considering doing something similar in terms of constructing a nice big panel out of foam board, but for aesthetic purposes I really need the panel to be easily taken on and off. Basically, I want to be able to "transform" the front of the room into blackout when needed but keep it lighter when the room is just being used as a rec-room.

The projection wall itself is already very dark, but the ceilings and side walls arent (or the floor).

For the ceiling, any ideas on how to create a system to attach it to the ceiling such that I can easily just hop on a chair and take it on or off? I was considering just having some screws in the ceiling and putting keyhole fasteners on the back of the panel:
Curtains on a track or rod.

Someone in the thread has a ceiling curtain solution as well. Javs, maybe? It would not be too difficult to build a room-width roller blind that you pull out to a hooked position, or extend out in U-channel track on either side. Retract with counterweights instead of springs and there is no maintenance or parts to break.

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post #5640 of 6292 Old 01-18-2019, 11:16 AM
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Wow, I was an engineer in school but somehow never knew aluminum isn't magnetic! Haha learn something new ever day.

To continue my dumb questions, not sure I understand, how did the magnets end up leaving marks on the screen material? If the magnets themselves are mounted behind the frame and you only put the steel plates on the part of the mask that overlaps with the frame, neither would never touch the screen material itself..right?
In my case the magnets and steel plates where in contact with the screen surface. In your case, they won't.

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