Originally Posted by DavidinGA
Yes, the attic access door can be opened as it is with the screen mounted there. If it were mounted to the ceiling it would not allow room to open the access door though.
This is the upstairs and the door way next to the screen leads to a bathroom and bedroom. I have considered adding a door, mainly if I didn't decide to do curtains.
In the photos, the opening behind the bar leads downstairs, and one window is on that wall, and one window next to the sectional.
Makes more sense now. If it were my house, I'd black out the walls and ceiling in line with the placement of your black shag runner. In my current installation I also have a runner, and I use a false wall for framing off the blacked out area from the rest of the room. That won't work for you because of the hallway, but you could do that same thing with curtains, as I had in my first build, like this:
Thumbtack False Proscenium Theatrical Curtains:
pick a fabric for theatrical drapes that is not black but not too bright or distracting. Paint a 2x2 black, or a color to match fabric of choice, and attach across the ceiling above the edge of the carpet runner, the full width of the space. I would not include that little bit that extends to the right in front of the hall door, just to the corner of the wall. You will use thumbtacks to attach a strip of fabric to that bar to create a valence that will look like a raised main drape. Easier with a fabric that looks good on both sides (so not velvet, unless you fold it over). I don't recall how much fabric is needed for it, but I think it is about 1.5 times the width plus 1 or 2 times the height, depending on how wide you need the legs to hang at the edges. In your case I'd think 1 times height, and split the cloth unto two narrower strips the height of the room (plus a few inches).
For Valence, Tack one corner of the 1.5 times width piece to the front of the 2x2 at the far end, with the top edge folded toward the 2x2 and down with the tack the covered by the draping fabric. same at other end with the other corner. If you are using a one sided fabric you'd fold it over to join the edges with the good side out, then pin both corners together at each end. Next you find the middle, which will be near the floor in the middle of room, most likely, and tack it up the middle of the bar, again, fabric rolled over the tack. From here you keep bisecting each section putting another tack, repeatedly, until the tacks are only an inch or two apart. Precision is not too important, it looks more natural with some randomness. What you should have now is a piece of fabric hanging down that looks like a curtain bunched on a rod. To make the drapey look, you tack another row of bisecting folds up, but not as many as the first row. Starting in the middle, pull the bottom forward, lift it up and then fold it over on itself toward the 2x2 with a tack under it. get the tack at the height you need to raise the new bottom of the curtain to the height you want, which would be just above the light path from the projector to the screen so it does not throw any shadows. Push that tack into the center, then do the ends the same way, then start bisecting again until you are maybe 18 inches apart, and it should look like a pulled up theatrical drape.
The legs are just a piece of "ceiling height-length" fabric tacked to the back of the 2x2 at each edge. Tack one corner next to wall and one corner at the amount you want it to hang into the room. Looks like a foot or less in your install. Then just like the first step of valence, tack up the center and keep bisecting until it looks like a curtain hanging on each side of the room behind the valence.
Behind the false curtains tack a sheet of black velvet, good side forward, to the back of the 2x2 the full width of the room. Either make a slit in the fabric to accommodate the screen hangers and lift the bottom edge up and tuck it over the top of the screen case, or take the screen down and reattach it after tacking the fabric up to the top of the walls all around. I would want to use the ceiling fabric to cover the white crown molding in the blacked out area.
1) If using black velvet you can just tack/staple it up.
2) With other fabrics you may want to use furring strips or insulation panels.
3) A layer or two of ductliner insulation on the screen wall is always a good idea, so you might use this as an excuse to hang the ductliner between furring strips you use to attach fabric.
4) hanging dark curtains all around would be work
Hang a door and wrap it in your wall fabric, or put a curtain of your wall fabric in front of the opening.