The Blacker the Theater, The Better the Image - Page 217 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #6481 of 6624 Old 08-29-2019, 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by DavidinGA View Post
Triple Black Velvet - Curtains

Amazon's - Fabric Outlet velvet

How does this material hang for use as curtains? I've never had any of the material on hand and was wondering what kind of material it is. I was going to create a curtain/canopy setup on curtain rods with the material and was wondering how it would hang if I basically left it as is (folding over the edges once to hide any frays/rough ends, but not actually having them sewn into curtains). I figured it would like nice enough when bunched up into the corner of my room without spending more money for a seamstress to make them into actual curtains, then I can live with them may be looking a bit funky when in use. Does the material hang good or is it too light or does it have static cling to it?

My thought was to make simple make-shift curtains by cutting my lengths and then folding over the ends once and funning a bead of glue there and pressing the material firmly into a nice straight crease where it would be hidden from view against the wall. I'd make a loop at the top and run the curtain down a curtain rod and call it a day. Thoughts?
I made my own curtains with the Joann's triple black velvet (similar to the syfabrics TBV) several years ago and they came out awesome.

These are the curtain rods I used:

https://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/sto...tegoryId=10552

I went super-low tech on this one since it would be hidden behind the curtains. I just folded a seam across the top of the velvet to make a path for the curtain rod. I used industrial tape + a few dabs of gorilla glue to hold it in place permanently.

This is a crude illustration below but we are looking at the greyish back of the velvet. 1 1/2-2" fold and vertical stripes of the tape every 6 inches or so. The spaces in between the taped areas allow for an excellent pleat in the curtain once it's installed and bunched up to give it some dimension.



This is an older photo when i first installed them. Difficult to see the pleat but it looks great in person and have been in place for several years with no issues.

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post #6482 of 6624 Old 08-29-2019, 07:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post
I made my own curtains with the Joann's triple black velvet (similar to the syfabrics TBV) several years ago and they came out awesome.

These are the curtain rods I used:

https://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/sto...tegoryId=10552

I went super-low tech on this one since it would be hidden behind the curtains. I just folded a seam across the top of the velvet to make a path for the curtain rod. I used industrial tape + a few dabs of gorilla glue to hold it in place permanently.

This is a crude illustration below but we are looking at the greyish back of the velvet. 1 1/2-2" fold and vertical stripes of the tape every 6 inches or so. The spaces in between the taped areas allow for an excellent pleat in the curtain once it's installed and bunched up to give it some dimension.



This is an older photo when i first installed them. Difficult to see the pleat but it looks great in person and have been in place for several years with no issues.



Thanks.

I like the tape idea to create the pleated look and make it bunch up "right"! That's something I hadn't considered doing...

--------------------------------------------------
Source: HTPC w/madVR, Video: Epson 5040, 150" 16:9, Audio: Onkyo RZ 830 avr, 5.1.4 Atmos setup. 5 speaker Energy C Series: L/R C300's, C C-C100, SR/SL C50's, 4 in-ceiling Micca R-8c. Subwoofer: MiniMarty um18 w/NX3000D.
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post #6483 of 6624 Old 08-29-2019, 02:29 PM
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Minor nit for last several pages: the budget velvet product is called Triple Plush Velvet, not Triple Black Velvet. It comes in many colors. Including black. "Fabric Bravo - Better Service!" is the vendor that we've verified is Shipping the right thing on Amazon marketplace.

For me the key reason to (theortically) prefer the Rosco TV paint over tough prime is that primer is not made to be a finished surface. It is supposedly lacking certain elements that would make it a protectant for the surface. Flat paint in general is pretty useless, though, so I don't know how much better it would actually be. I bought Sherwin Williams paint and it was not very effective. I have since covered the projection wall with the TPV mentioned above.

I think the front wall is the first thing to cover, not the ceiling and side walls. All of them help, but I started at the front to give that floating look to the image.
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post #6484 of 6624 Old 08-29-2019, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by ScottAvery View Post
Minor nit for last several pages: the budget velvet product is called Triple Plush Velvet, not Triple Black Velvet. It comes in many colors. Including black. "Fabric Bravo - Better Service!" is the vendor that we've verified is Shipping the right thing on Amazon marketplace.



For me the key reason to (theortically) prefer the Rosco TV paint over tough prime is that primer is not made to be a finished surface. It is supposedly lacking certain elements that would make it a protectant for the surface. Flat paint in general is pretty useless, though, so I don't know how much better it would actually be. I bought Sherwin Williams paint and it was not very effective. I have since covered the projection wall with the TPV mentioned above.



I think the front wall is the first thing to cover, not the ceiling and side walls. All of them help, but I started at the front to give that floating look to the image.
Covering the front wall probably gives that floating image many people enjoy but as far as reducing reflections back onto your screen I am not sure how effective covering the front wall in velvet is more than any black or dark paint. Most people go for the biggest screen they can fit so the ceiling and sidewalls are usually really close to the screen making it paramount to reduce those reflections back onto the screen if you are using a white screen.

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post #6485 of 6624 Old 08-29-2019, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by DavidinGA View Post
Thanks.

I like the tape idea to create the pleated look and make it bunch up "right"! That's something I hadn't considered doing...
it worked out great. once you get the process down, you can get a room covered with professional looking results in no time at all.

I especially like the hardware I posted because once the curtains/rods are installed on the hooks, you can bend them upwards for a perfect seam with the ceiling with zero gaps between wall and ceiling.




once you start this process, it's hard to stop until there is nothing to see in the room except the screen.
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post #6486 of 6624 Old 08-30-2019, 06:43 AM
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I'm curious. Has anybody experimented, yet, with Vantablack?


BMW obviously has:



"It is only about things that do not interest one that one can give a really unbiased opinion, which is no doubt the reason why an unbiased opinion is always absolutely valueless." Oscar Wilde
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post #6487 of 6624 Old 08-30-2019, 09:49 AM
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I'm curious. Has anybody experimented, yet, with Vantablack?

BMW obviously has:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QCI2KYhC8vk
Except that's not the proper Vantablack... Not the Vantablack nanotubes material which is the blackest material on earth... It's VBx2; which is only 99% light absorbing. That's worse than Protostar Flocking

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post #6488 of 6624 Old 09-03-2019, 09:23 AM
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Speaking of black, the black leopard has a fairly impressive non reflective coat.

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post #6489 of 6624 Old 09-03-2019, 09:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post
I've used it for some unique HT applications

I made a cut out to reduce reflections on the bridge of my 3D glasses

also to reduce reflections from the lens ring of my LED PF1500

I lined the inside of my A-lens, to reduce reflections.
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post #6490 of 6624 Old 09-03-2019, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike Garrett View Post
I lined the inside of my A-lens, to reduce reflections.
With Leopard fur?
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post #6491 of 6624 Old 09-03-2019, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skylarlove1999 View Post
Covering the front wall probably gives that floating image many people enjoy but as far as reducing reflections back onto your screen I am not sure how effective covering the front wall in velvet is more than any black or dark paint. Most people go for the biggest screen they can fit so the ceiling and sidewalls are usually really close to the screen making it paramount to reduce those reflections back onto the screen if you are using a white screen.

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I'd also point the front wall should always have insulation for sound reflections, too, so Putting up fabric to cover it is just 2 birds with one stone.
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post #6492 of 6624 Old 09-04-2019, 10:34 AM
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@ARROW-AV Quick question.. With the VIDEO TV PAINT can you touch it once its dry or does it leave a mark.. I had painted my doors flat black once and every time i touched them it left a mark..
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post #6493 of 6624 Old 09-04-2019, 04:44 PM
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@ARROW-AV Quick question.. With the VIDEO TV PAINT can you touch it once its dry or does it leave a mark.. I had painted my doors flat black once and every time i touched them it left a mark..
I just painted some test areas with Rosco Video Paint - TV Black and it is definitely more black than the Rosco supersaturated. It produces noticeably less reflection when I show a very bright white image on my screen.

But... it is just as bad as the Rosco Supersaturated with scuffing even with a light finger touch. So for a ceiling this stuff is amazing or for a room where no one will touch the walls. I may use it for the walls just 6-10 ft from the screen and then put a board wrapped in velvet as a border to the rest of my wall.

There is a new paint by Benjamin Moore called Century Line : Obsidian that I am going to investigate also.
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7.4.6 system: Processors:Marantz 8805 || Xilica XP4080 Amps: Parasound A31 and ATI AT528NC & AT526NC n-core ||Speakers: Procella P8 LCR, Procella P5 for surround & ceiling
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post #6494 of 6624 Old 09-04-2019, 05:14 PM
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I just painted some test areas with Rosco Video Paint - TV Black and it is definitely more black than the Rosco supersaturated. It produces noticeably less reflection when I show a very bright white image on my screen.



But... it is just as bad as the Rosco Supersaturated with scuffing even with a light finger touch. So for a ceiling this stuff is amazing or for a room where no one will touch the walls. I may use it for the walls just 6-10 ft from the screen and then put a board wrapped in velvet as a border to the rest of my wall.



There is a new paint by Benjamin Moore called Century Line : Obsidian that I am going to investigate also.
Got it thank u.. I guess I'll use it for the ceiling but I don't want to deal with the scuffs even though they come off with water..

Please let me know how that new paint does I'm about to start painting my room in the next few weeks..

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post #6495 of 6624 Old 09-04-2019, 09:22 PM
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With Leopard fur?
The leopard kept running away when I approached it, so ended up using scope flocking.
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post #6496 of 6624 Old 09-04-2019, 09:26 PM
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I just painted some test areas with Rosco Video Paint - TV Black and it is definitely more black than the Rosco supersaturated. It produces noticeably less reflection when I show a very bright white image on my screen.



But... it is just as bad as the Rosco Supersaturated with scuffing even with a light finger touch. So for a ceiling this stuff is amazing or for a room where no one will touch the walls. I may use it for the walls just 6-10 ft from the screen and then put a board wrapped in velvet as a border to the rest of my wall.



There is a new paint by Benjamin Moore called Century Line : Obsidian that I am going to investigate also.


I got a sample of the Benjamin Moore Obsidian and was really impressed with it. I will be painting my side and back wall with it soon.


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post #6497 of 6624 Old 09-05-2019, 02:32 AM
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The leopard kept running away when I approached it, so ended up using scope flocking.
I felt bad for the leopard that he wasn't as night black as the flocking so I did catch the leopard and covered him in flocking.

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post #6498 of 6624 Old 09-08-2019, 06:16 PM
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I lined the inside of my A-lens, to reduce reflections.


....you did what now? How?
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post #6499 of 6624 Old 09-08-2019, 07:28 PM
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....you did what now? How?
I have a Prismasonic lens.
https://prismasonic.com/english/cino...ylindrical.php
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post #6500 of 6624 Old 09-08-2019, 07:50 PM
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Ok whew! That makes way more sense.
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post #6501 of 6624 Old 09-09-2019, 06:09 AM
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Ok whew! That makes way more sense.
I would like to have a Panamorph Paladin, but I need more throw and I would need to change my curved power masking screen from a curved screen to a flat screen. Throw is the big issue.
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post #6502 of 6624 Old 09-10-2019, 02:02 AM
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OK so latest addition is 2.35 masking for the theatre!

Dont know why I waited so long to do this, but really glad I got around to it, it provides a ton more percieved contrast, since it erases all the typical JVC internal lens reflections from polluting the black bars during films.

Now because I sit so close and have such large speakers, my screen is a little higher than my actual eyeline, so what I basically have been doing until now, and will continue to do so, is when I watch a scope film, i just drop the screen down with lens memory, which makes the 2.35 content actually sit about mid eyeline and pushes the black bar area all the way to the top of the screen since the 2.35 content is perfectly aligned along the bottom edge of my screen.

Anyway so I decided it was time to make a single large panel for scope films which I can easily hang on my screen frame using a pretty simple hook bracket designed for hanging wash cloths and such from kitchen drawers.

I purchased a couple of packs of foam matting which has interlocking teeth and simply joined them together in a 2.8m long straight line, then cut off the exposed teeth on the tops and sides so I have a clean edge. Then I bought a few lengths of U shaped edging made from Aluminium and lined the edges with that to give it some rigidity and it seemed to work very well.

Then I just stapled some velvet, attached the hooks to the panel and bobs yer uncle!
Going back to an old post here, but I’m looking at doing a few improvements to my room treatment, one of which is masking. I really like your simple idea, but hoping you can help me out on a couple of issues.

My screen frame is screwed to the front wall, and has no real space between it and the wall. In your room, was there space to drop the bracket behind the screen surround?

Does your masking panel just hang in front of the screen surround, so there is quite a gap between it and the actual screen material (because the thickness of the surround means it extends beyond the screen itself)? If so, does it cause any shadow issues?

What velvet did you source for the masking panel and, indeed, for the ceiling? It seems much harder to source good velvet in Australia. I might consider doing some of my ceiling. Did you use panels of some sort for this?

Are you still using those Spotlight black rugs? I presume they’re a good, non-reflective black?

Hope you can help me out a little.
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post #6503 of 6624 Old 09-10-2019, 07:13 AM
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I would like to have a Panamorph Paladin, but I need more throw and I would need to change my curved power masking screen from a curved screen to a flat screen. Throw is the big issue.


Gotcha. Curved screen eh? Is the curve noticeable?
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post #6504 of 6624 Old 09-10-2019, 07:56 AM
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Gotcha. Curved screen eh? Is the curve noticeable?
Yes. A curved screen removes the pincushion that a horizontal expansion lens introduces. Usually around a 40' radius curve.
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post #6505 of 6624 Old 09-10-2019, 08:48 AM
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My screen frame is screwed to the front wall, and has no real space between it and the wall. In your room, was there space to drop the bracket behind the screen surround?

Does your masking panel just hang in front of the screen surround, so there is quite a gap between it and the actual screen material (because the thickness of the surround means it extends beyond the screen itself)? If so, does it cause any shadow issues?
Hi, take a look at the masks I built in the link below, it has all the materials I used. My screen is 142" 16:9 and the magnets I used are so strong, the masks quickly 'snap' into perfect form on the top and bottom.

My screen has a 3" frame and there is a small gap between the masks and the screen. the cut off line is perfect, there are no shadows.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...l#post54735385

masking makes a huge impact on the overall viewing experience with scope content and highly recommended.
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post #6506 of 6624 Old 09-10-2019, 05:42 PM
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Hi, take a look at the masks I built in the link below, it has all the materials I used. My screen is 142" 16:9 and the magnets I used are so strong, the masks quickly 'snap' into perfect form on the top and bottom.

My screen has a 3" frame and there is a small gap between the masks and the screen. the cut off line is perfect, there are no shadows.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...l#post54735385

masking makes a huge impact on the overall viewing experience with scope content and highly recommended.
Appreciate that. So your magnets are behind the frame of the screen, and the masking panel sits flush with the forward edge of the frame? In my case, there would be a 3cm gap between that and the screen material. Is this about the same as yours?
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Yes. A curved screen removes the pincushion that a horizontal expansion lens introduces. Usually around a 40' radius curve.


Awesome. I had no idea that was a thing. Learn something new every day!
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post #6508 of 6624 Old 09-11-2019, 07:49 AM
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Appreciate that. So your magnets are behind the frame of the screen, and the masking panel sits flush with the forward edge of the frame? In my case, there would be a 3cm gap between that and the screen material. Is this about the same as yours?
Hi, yes the magnets are behind the frame and the panels are flush with the forward edge of the frame. This frame is ~3" wide and about 2.5" deep so with the panels on I have ~1" between the back of the panel and screen material.

You will be fine as long as the panels aren't directly touching the screen material.
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post #6509 of 6624 Old 09-11-2019, 08:23 AM
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The Blacker the Theater, The Better the Image

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Got it thank u.. I guess I'll use it for the ceiling but I don't want to deal with the scuffs even though they come off with water..

Please let me know how that new paint does I'm about to start painting my room in the next few weeks..

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Note that the scuffs will not come off with water since a damp rag also makes a slight color change even after drying. I have now purchased five different types of black paint and all the darkest paints have this scuffing issue.

Sherwin williams tricorn black in flat in whatever their best paint is called, is amazing as it does not scuff at all but it looks gray compared to both of the Rosco paints.

I am painting my room about 10 ft from the screen with the Rosco video paint as people generally are not touching the walls of my theater. Then the rest with the tricorn sherwin Williams.

I am also adding black velvet covering six feet out from the screen.


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7.4.6 system: Processors:Marantz 8805 || Xilica XP4080 Amps: Parasound A31 and ATI AT528NC & AT526NC n-core ||Speakers: Procella P8 LCR, Procella P5 for surround & ceiling
Subs: JTR Captivator subs: One S2, Two RS2, One S1, 2 Seaton Submersive (FOR SALE)
Screen: 2.40:1 Seymour XD Acoustically Transparent, 128" diagonal / 118" wide || Projector: JVC X570/RS420
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post #6510 of 6624 Old 09-11-2019, 12:51 PM
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Location: Las Vegas
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Originally Posted by farsider3000 View Post
Note that the scuffs will not come off with water since a damp rag also makes a slight color change even after drying. I have now purchased five different types of black paint and all the darkest paints have this scuffing issue.

Sherwin williams tricorn black in flat in whatever their best paint is called, is amazing as it does not scuff at all but it looks gray compared to both of the Rosco paints.

I am painting my room about 10 ft from the screen with the Rosco video paint as people generally are not touching the walls of my theater. Then the rest with the tricorn sherwin Williams.

I am also adding black velvet covering six feet out from the screen.


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Have you tried Benjamin Moore Century in OBSIDIAN? It's expensive, but I thought it looked great and very black. Here is what they say about cleaning.

6. Is the finish washable? Will cleaning affect the appearance?
After the full cure period of two weeks, Century painted surfaces can be lightly washed with a mild soap and water mixture without affecting the appearance.
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