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post #7351 of 7724 Old 04-20-2020, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by wookiegr View Post
I have no intentions on paying anyone to do anything in the build I am currently working on. For me, the higher cost of the paint is all I have to worry about so in that regard, it's still very affordable. However, I will be spraying down the entire construction in two coats of white drywall primer. Some rooms get textured wallpaper, other areas get planking while the theater room gets only blackened paint. I hope using white primer doesn't interfere with the effectiveness of the Rosco. I will likely being doing two coats of that as well.
Just something you might wish to think about before you do the H/T in multiple base coats of White-Primer.

Before my Team did the actual Rosco Velour Flat Black they applied a base coat of Flat Black to cover up all the drywall repairs that were extensive.

After they applied that Flat Black base-coat then they did the 2-coats of the Rosco.

Just maybe something to consider before hand.


















T.
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post #7352 of 7724 Old 04-20-2020, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by pitchcut29 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by tnaik4 View Post
guys what do u think about these ?

https://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Velv..._t1_B07DPSGXQC

i like the idea that they are sticky and are easily put on speakers for example and even on walls , but i m not sure how good is there black velvet.
From my experience, the felt never looks the great and tends to be discolored in certain areas. If you can, I would recommend black velvet material and carpet tape. Very sticky and works well if you need it to be adhesive. It’ll give you the best results.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H897S7R..._7rANEb4SDXKTA
Thats a great solution, can u plz share an amazon link for the best black velvet to get from there for home theatre use, i only have access to amazon since i live overseas and cant buy from anywhere, so i m limited to amazon only.

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post #7353 of 7724 Old 04-20-2020, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by tnaik4 View Post
Thats a great solution, can u plz share an amazon link for the best black velvet to get from there for home theatre use, i only have access to amazon since i live overseas and cant buy from anywhere, so i m limited to amazon only.

Thank you
You're welcome, glad to help!

This is the material a few forum members bought from the Faberic Bravo seller:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...36MHTXWY&psc=1

I have not personally used the amazon velvet, only the triple black from SyFabics and Royalty 3 Black from JoAnn. I have heard some great feedback from others who have purchased from Fabric Bravo seller but recently there have been some shipping issues. Just be careful which seller you purchase the velvet from because their product might not match the color that's in the description. If you have an option, search somewhere local to your location and ask for samples.

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post #7354 of 7724 Old 04-20-2020, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by pitchcut29 View Post
You're welcome, glad to help!



This is the material a few forum members bought from the Faberic Bravo seller:



https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...36MHTXWY&psc=1



I have not personally used the amazon velvet, only the triple black from SyFabics and Royalty 3 Black from JoAnn. I have heard some great feedback from others who have purchased from Fabric Bravo seller but recently there have been some shipping issues. Just be careful which seller you purchase the velvet from because their product might not match the color that's in the description. If you have an option, search somewhere local to your location and ask for samples.
Wow, those guys are starting to price gouge. When I got mine on Amazon from luvfabrics, it was only $168.

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post #7355 of 7724 Old 04-20-2020, 11:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tnaik4 View Post
guys what do u think about these ?

https://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Velv..._t1_B07DPSGXQC

i like the idea that they are sticky and are easily put on speakers for example and even on walls , but i m not sure how good is there black velvet.

I tend to avoid anything that is self adhesive unless you’re planning to cover only small surfaces, such as small speakers. It might seem practical in theory, but it’s usually a mess to apply that on large surfaces such as a wall. Removing is even worse, because the adhesive stays. Curtains are much easier to apply, remove and reuse, not to mention they’re only blocking light when you want them to; and you have a lot more options when it’s not adhesive. In short, adhesive velvet should be used in small areas only, IMO.


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post #7356 of 7724 Old 04-21-2020, 03:18 AM
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@tigerhonaker - did you paint your mini-split? I've really been thinking of trying to plasti-dip mine (it's reversible in case I screw it up). Mine is on the side wall and though it's so quiet I can't hear it, it is a big white shiny eyesore in a dark room.

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post #7357 of 7724 Old 04-21-2020, 04:04 AM
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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Old....opinionated....and weighed down by experience.
.
.
.
1st thing of note.....the paint had better be Acrylic in nature....not a Flat Latex! All this talk of rubbing and smearing comes from people purchasing expensive paint that is really anything but.
Any decent Primer / Paint combination contains enough Acrylic content to be not just resistant of abrasive rubbing, it's wipe-able. (...don't ever touch Rosco with a sponge...you'll regret it...)
.
.
.
All ya all go ahead...enjoy your Coal Mines. If I gotta get stuck in a rut....I want something that looks as good as it performs.
.
.
.
Say....ultra Dark Grey Ceiling w/matching Room Trim, and a extremely deep Matte Red for the Walls.
.......or, ultra deep Midnight Blue (matte) Ceiling.....Dark Grey, or Deep Blue Matte with faint Green undertones for Walls.


And for anyone whose Screen crowds the Ceiling or Side Walls....Sy's Black Plush Triple Velvet is / has always been the "go to" for best results for the least expense.

MM, can you recommend a specific paint that meets your criteria?

Thanks,
Mike
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post #7358 of 7724 Old 04-21-2020, 06:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Northern_Lights View Post
I'm in the same boat right now. Amazon marked it shipped on April 7th, saying it would get here on April 14th. When I input the tracking number directly into UPS's site, however, it shows that the shipping label was created on April 7th but it was never actually shipped. Fabric Bravo took my money, made a label, and are now apparently too lazy to drop the dang thing off at UPS? My Amazon order page says if it's not here by April 18th (which it obviously won't be if it hasn't even shipped yet), I can go back to the order page to get a refund. At this point I'd like both the fabric and a refund, and frankly, Amazon can pick up the tab as far as I'm concerned. Amazon has to take responsibility for their third party sellers or kick them off the platform. I'll also be ordering from Sy if this doesn't work out.
Any updates on shipping from Fabric Bravo?

I ordered Fabric Bravo on 4/13 and its still sitting in label created status on UPS. The seller responded to an email that ‘the parcel is delayed by the carrier'. Amazon is still showing an expected delivery date of tomorrow, but looks like I’m going to be waiting for a while. I’d also be interested in feedback on velvet from other sources.

Quote:
Originally Posted by biglen View Post
For my walls, I bought this sliding curtain rod. It's much better than tacking the velvet to the walls. My ceiling is done with the panels. You technically only need to go back about 4ft from your screen, on the ceiling. Doing the whole ceiling is overkill. Others may argue it's not overkill.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V6641C0..._AhGKEbS07WGZP
Thanks for this recommendation, I ordered 2 from Amazon for my small 2nd bedroom build. I have the first one installed and the roller clips work great with a blanket test. Can’t wait for the velvet to get here, I’ve always wanted my own bat cave.
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post #7359 of 7724 Old 04-21-2020, 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by wookiegr View Post
I have no intentions on paying anyone to do anything in the build I am currently working on. For me, the higher cost of the paint is all I have to worry about so in that regard, it's still very affordable. However, I will be spraying down the entire construction in two coats of white drywall primer. Some rooms get textured wallpaper, other areas get planking while the theater room gets only blackened paint. I hope using white primer doesn't interfere with the effectiveness of the Rosco. I will likely being doing two coats of that as well.

Please read everything as carefully as you can, and consider the advice of those who have gone before. Oh...plenty equate quality with spending excessively, or following the crowd who exclaim such, but it can easily get out of hand and result in some exceedingly sour grapes. Your Theater is a different room altogether from the rest of the Home, and if it means you stop and have 2-3 gallons of "tint-able" White Primer tinted a dark Grey so as to make your Rosco go up all the easier, then just do it! You have only yourself to make the choice. Better still, try the solution I have posted below first and take the difference in cash and treat yourself to something else you might of otherwise forgone without and revel in your cleverness.
(After all....it's so ridiculously less expensive than Rosco, even if you decide to move on to such, you'll be out pennies in comparison..and have a dark substrate already on hand.)


Quote:
Originally Posted by skylarlove1999 View Post
I would go with a gray primer for the theater room.

The right advice....stated somewhat more concisely than above.


Quote:
Originally Posted by tigerhonaker View Post
Just something you might wish to think about before you do the H/T in multiple base coats of White-Primer.
Before my Team did the actual Rosco Velour Flat Black they applied a base coat of Flat Black to cover up all the drywall repairs that were extensive.

After they applied that Flat Black base-coat then they did the 2-coats of the Rosco.

Just maybe something to consider before hand.

T.
Of course that'll work too....but I prefer a mid-toned Grey for the simple reason that it is still within the range of being a High Contrast coating, one that will go further in showing you any remaining defects in repairs (...or ones that were missed...). Just the same, your method is light years better than a White Primer, and @wookiegr would be well advised to hearken to such.


Quote:
Originally Posted by mhutchins View Post
MM, can you recommend a specific paint that meets your criteria?

Thanks,
Mike
Certainly. I myself have found that the PPG Diamond Base #3 (Flat) is an excellent, low cost Acrylic Paint with great durability. Also,to enhance the durability factor all the more, the addition of 25% Matte Clear Polyurethane will allow you to feel perfectly OK with any guest giving the Walls a curious swipe.

Tint-wise, a Color from the Disney Palette Collection called "Mouse Ears" is a almighty Black "Black" and can be made to be "Super Saturated" simply by doubling the amount of Tint.

So for a few hundred dollars less...one can get results that would be impossible to ascertain a difference.


But....no matter what you choose ya gotta spray it on !!!!!!



It seems "almost" incredible to me that such well versed people buy into Rosco's sales hype on "Super Saturated" just to purchase a extremely expensive Paint whose thickness is simply due to a lack of moisture content, and whose reputed "darkness"comes from simply adding more of the necessary Tints to Base Paint volume. I mean just think about it....how do you think any deeply saturated color obtains such a rich appearance? But to make a Paint and advertise it as being superior, yet allow it to be so fragile? That is a total pisser!



Actually, the marketing they (Rosco) employs makes sense because of who it specifically targets....who else if any are more likely to spend prodigiously if told by doing so they get the best. And the Reviewers are not to be excluded....they too are susceptible to claims supported by conventional thought and a lack comparative examples.



Many are aware that for the last 16 years, getting paint formulas right has been my job description...and making the end result be as durable as possible has been a very important part of it. This has led me to try many different (...and expensive...) paint combinations, and then match up my own creations against them. A Flat Black is no different in many respects than a light or medium hued Flat Grey....both benefit greatly by being applied over a darker substrate. The latter should be so elemental as to be like.....well breathing?

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post #7360 of 7724 Old 04-21-2020, 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Mocs123 View Post
@tigerhonaker - did you paint your mini-split? I've really been thinking of trying to plasti-dip mine (it's reversible in case I screw it up). Mine is on the side wall and though it's so quiet I can't hear it, it is a big white shiny eyesore in a dark room.
The Samsung ONLY came in the Bright-White.
Since I knew the owner of the HVAC company and had done business with him for years.
His manager over seeing the install of the Samsung Split-Unit in August of 2012 had his techs disassemble it.
The parts were then taken to a body-shop that I use to work with that Manager years ago.
That manager had all the parts sprayed in Flat-Black with multiple coats for me.
We then went back and picked-up all the painted parts and the HVAC techs put it all back together and installed the finished now Flat-Black unit.

There was No-Way though to have that Huge looking Bright-White Samsung air-carrier in the H/T.
It would have been an Absolute Instant Eye-Sore !!!

Below is when the unit was 1st installed but UN-Fortunately I don't see any pictures of it in the Bright-White.

Slideshow but not in any specific order.

https://s258.photobucket.com/user/ti...%202012?sort=6



Terry
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post #7361 of 7724 Old 04-21-2020, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Please read everything as carefully as you can, and consider the advice of those who have gone before. Oh...plenty equate quality with spending excessively, or following the crowd who exclaim such, but it can easily get out of hand and result in some exceedingly sour grapes. Your Theater is a different room altogether from the rest of the Home, and if it means you stop and have 2-3 gallons of "tint-able" White Primer tinted a dark Grey so as to make your Rosco go up all the easier, then just do it! You have only yourself to make the choice. Better still, try the solution I have posted below first and take the difference in cash and treat yourself to something else you might of otherwise forgone without and revel in your cleverness.
(After all....it's so ridiculously less expensive than Rosco, even if you decide to move on to such, you'll be out pennies in comparison..and have a dark substrate already on hand.)





The right advice....stated somewhat more concisely than above.



Of course that'll work too....but I prefer a mid-toned Grey for the simple reason that it is still within the range of being a High Contrast coating, one that will go further in showing you any remaining defects in repairs (...or ones that were missed...). Just the same, your method is light years better than a White Primer, and @wookiegr would be well advised to hearken to such.




Certainly. I myself have found that the PPG Diamond Base #3 (Flat) is an excellent, low cost Acrylic Paint with great durability. Also,to enhance the durability factor all the more, the addition of 25% Matte Clear Polyurethane will allow you to feel perfectly OK with any guest giving the Walls a curious swipe.

Tint-wise, a Color from the Disney Palette Collection called "Mouse Ears" is a almighty Black "Black" and can be made to be "Super Saturated" simply by doubling the amount of Tint.

So for a few hundred dollars less...one can get results that would be impossible to ascertain a difference.


But....no matter what you choose ya gotta spray it on !!!!!!



It seems "almost" incredible to me that such well versed people buy into Rosco's sales hype on "Super Saturated" just to purchase a extremely expensive Paint whose thickness is simply due to a lack of moisture content, and whose reputed "darkness"comes from simply adding more of the necessary Tints to Base Paint volume. I mean just think about it....how do you think any deeply saturated color obtains such a rich appearance? But to make a Paint and advertise it as being superior, yet allow it to be so fragile? That is a total pisser!



Actually, the marketing they (Rosco) employs makes sense because of who it specifically targets....who else if any are more likely to spend prodigiously if told by doing so they get the best. And the Reviewers are not to be excluded....they too are susceptible to claims supported by conventional thought and a lack comparative examples.



Many are aware that for the last 16 years, getting paint formulas right has been my job description...and making the end result be as durable as possible has been a very important part of it. This has led me to try many different (...and expensive...) paint combinations, and then match up my own creations against them. A Flat Black is no different in many respects than a light or medium hued Flat Grey....both benefit greatly by being applied over a darker substrate. The latter should be so elemental as to be like.....well breathing?
I already bought "PVA 5 Gal. White Interior Drywall Primer" from Home Depot. I have several walls to spray on besides just the Home Theater room. What are the chances of doing everything I need to do with the primer before hitting the theater room and then tinting it myself with the remaining amount? I get all my materials delivered from Home Depot to my door step for only $9 per order to avoid going inside the store, that's how I ended up not having a darker tinted primer to work with. I really did plan to have a dark tinted primer but simplified things with the assumption that the Rosco being so thick, it should not matter what color the primer is. I am open to suggestions that are economical but I also don't want to be sitting in there in a year wishing I had done something more.
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post #7362 of 7724 Old 04-21-2020, 08:25 AM
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wookiegr,

I'm going to share the following with you and this is actually coming from Rosco as well as the Professional Paint Company and Techs that did my H/T.

They used like 9-Gallons of it after applying the Black-Primer-Coat.
It's very much like Tar ................

My H/T is something on the order of 4,200 Cubic-Feet.

24' long, 20' wide, 9' ceiling.

Do-Not "Dilute" that Rosco, Period !!!

Sorry, I forgot your Spraying it so Never-Mind what I said ..............



T.

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post #7363 of 7724 Old 04-21-2020, 09:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wookiegr View Post
I already bought "PVA 5 Gal. White Interior Drywall Primer" from Home Depot. I have several walls to spray on besides just the Home Theater room. What are the chances of doing everything I need to do with the primer before hitting the theater room and then tinting it myself with the remaining amount? I get all my materials delivered from Home Depot to my door step for only $9 per order to avoid going inside the store, that's how I ended up not having a darker tinted primer to work with. I really did plan to have a dark tinted primer but simplified things with the assumption that the Rosco being so thick, it should not matter what color the primer is. I am open to suggestions that are economical but I also don't want to be sitting in there in a year wishing I had done something more.
@wookiegr

If you have several Rooms w/Walls (...and Ceilings...) to spray on 2 coats of Primer using a Airless Rig, then 5 Gallons almost assuredly won't be enough.

....probably at least 2 - 5 Gallon cans. No matter what.....you don't want to run out 1/2 way through a room....especially using a Airless Rig because they do not suffer running dry well. It ruins the Compressor Piston because the Piston isn't pumping air, it pumps the paint. As such there is always a bit of unused paint left.


Come the time to spray (primer) the Theater you will have developed a feel for how much paint is being delivered...how much is needed per coat...so you can then judge your needs.

As far as the Depot goes.....give then the following Dark Grey Tint number (see image) either via Phone or just drive over and have a Tech come outside and hand it to him directly...then scoot! , But specify that you want to have it mixed into a 5 Gallon can of "Tint-able" primer. 5 Gallons will of course be more than adequate to do the Theater alone, and when your done, simply dump enough of your current White primer into the depleted Grey, mix throughly and then use that to do some Walls elsewhere.

.............or you could do the opposite and have HD make up 3 Gallons of the shown mix...and after running that 5 Gallons of white down to withing 4"off the bottom of the Can, add in the 3 Gallons of Tinted Primer, still well and off you go.

Moving past the Primer issue, the Rosco will require a very large Spray tip due to it being so viscous. Count on that being absolutely necessary. (...and DO NOT try to use the larger Tip with the Primer! ) A Airless Sprayer can output /develop a tremendous amount of pressure, and it can be adjusted....but if too small a Tip is used you'll wind up with a extremely fine but very dense cloud of Paint that will go on with a very coarse texture. Texture means fragility.....especially with Rosco. You want "smooth" and dense.


Edit: Oops fer'got the image!







The image shows a quart size, but given the specific Bar Code number shown it's easy for the Paint Tech to scale up the needed Tint amounts
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post #7364 of 7724 Old 04-21-2020, 09:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tigerhonaker View Post
wookiegr,

I'm going to share the following with you and this is actually coming from Rosco as well as the Professional Paint Company and Techs that did my H/T.

They used like 9-Gallons of it after applying the Black-Primer-Coat.
It's very much like Tar ................

T.

Thickness does not necessarily equate to coverage properties....but it certainly does mean you require a LOT more paint to do an adequate job.


How hard is it to discern that such means you must buy that much more a lot of expensive product just because it's so thick?


Sorry...but such a situation cannot be explained away by virtue of mere cost of product and the viscosity thereof. I'm certainly not trying to belittle anyone's decision to use a specific product...that would be a bit crass. But I've spent a lot of time over the last 40+ years making judgements as to viability and cost effectiveness across a wide range of things "Home A/V" related, and when I see a case where it seems (...to me at least...) that people are falling prey to marketing and mfg dictates that don't seem to add up to being sensible...let alone cost effective....




.................I get a little crazy!

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post #7365 of 7724 Old 04-21-2020, 10:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by descalabro View Post
I tend to avoid anything that is self adhesive unless you’re planning to cover only small surfaces, such as small speakers. It might seem practical in theory, but it’s usually a mess to apply that on large surfaces such as a wall. Removing is even worse, because the adhesive stays. Curtains are much easier to apply, remove and reuse, not to mention they’re only blocking light when you want them to; and you have a lot more options when it’s not adhesive. In short, adhesive velvet should be used in small areas only, IMO.


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i currently have black velvet curtains in my home theater and like u said its a very practical solution, but i m planning to have acoustic panels in my new theater room and i m not sure they work behind curtains, i m leaning more towards fabric tape.

plz correct me if i m wrong , wouldnt acoustic panels behind velvet drapes defeat its purpose ?

thank you.

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post #7366 of 7724 Old 04-21-2020, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Thickness does not necessarily equate to coverage properties....but it certainly does mean you require a LOT more paint to do an adequate job.


How hard is it to discern that such means you must buy that much more a lot of expensive product just because it's so thick?


Sorry...but such a situation cannot be explained away by virtue of mere cost of product and the viscosity thereof. I'm certainly not trying to belittle anyone's decision to use a specific product...that would be a bit crass. But I've spent a lot of time over the last 40+ years making judgements as to viability and cost effectiveness across a wide range of things "Home A/V" related, and when I see a case where it seems (...to me at least...) that people are falling prey to marketing and mfg dictates that don't seem to add up to being sensible...let alone cost effective....




.................I get a little crazy!
MississippiMan,

Hey you can get a little crazy it does not bother me at all.

Actually I really stopped posting about Black Home Theater Threads and the reason was and still is ...........

Everyone should do what they wish and if they are Happy I'm Happy for them.

Terry
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post #7367 of 7724 Old 04-21-2020, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Sorry...but such a situation cannot be explained away by virtue of mere cost of product and the viscosity thereof. I'm certainly not trying to belittle anyone's decision to use a specific product...that would be a bit crass. But I've spent a lot of time over the last 40+ years making judgements as to viability and cost effectiveness across a wide range of things "Home A/V" related, and when I see a case where it seems (...to me at least...) that people are falling prey to marketing and mfg dictates that don't seem to add up to being sensible...let alone cost effective....


.................I get a little crazy!
Your in the wrong forum perhaps?

About half the stuff people buy in here is either because "it costs more" so it must be better, or someone told them it was better. Many don't care as much about the end product (they think they do), but really they care about the feeling of buying the product. It's marketing psychology 101, if someone thinks the product is good, they are more likely to have a good experience with it than if they bought a cheaper product (which has a negative bias from the start), placebo effect basically. Not everyone is that way, I am the opposite, the more I pay, the easier it is for myself to find fault from small issues.

Anyhow, was not talking about paint specifically, just HT products in general.

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post #7368 of 7724 Old 04-22-2020, 01:14 AM
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Originally Posted by tnaik4 View Post
i currently have black velvet curtains in my home theater and like u said its a very practical solution, but i m planning to have acoustic panels in my new theater room and i m not sure they work behind curtains, i m leaning more towards fabric tape.

plz correct me if i m wrong , wouldnt acoustic panels behind velvet drapes defeat its purpose ?

thank you.

I see your point. I’m not that knowledgeable about how sound behaves in a room, but I suppose you’re right. I would still prefer to glue the velvet myself. Below is how I did it. These have no purpose relating to sound, they’re just to make the ceiling darker. That’s a liquid glue stick, like UHU, etc.







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post #7369 of 7724 Old 04-22-2020, 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by tigerhonaker View Post
wookiegr,

I'm going to share the following with you and this is actually coming from Rosco as well as the Professional Paint Company and Techs that did my H/T.

They used like 9-Gallons of it after applying the Black-Primer-Coat.
It's very much like Tar ................

My H/T is something on the order of 4,200 Cubic-Feet.

24' long, 20' wide, 9' ceiling.

Do-Not "Dilute" that Rosco, Period !!!

Sorry, I forgot your Spraying it so Never-Mind what I said ..............



T.
I'm not spraying the Rosco, just the primer and other paints in the other rooms. I have been aware early on there was no way to spray Rosco. I thought it was assumed since Rosco can not be spayed in it's undiluted state.
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post #7370 of 7724 Old 04-22-2020, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by wookiegr View Post
I'm not spraying the Rosco, just the primer and other paints in the other rooms. I have been aware early on there was no way to spray Rosco. I thought it was assumed since Rosco can not be spayed in it's undiluted state.
Well that's what I did think at 1st then I had a 2nd thought that maybe you were going to really-really dilute/thin-it-down to spray it.

Okay, so your not spraying it then I am saying to you.
Use it Full-Strength for best results.
That's not my opinion at all as I am not a painter that's not my thing.
That's Rosco and also the Professional painters that actually did the work.
The real only concern is if the room the Rosco goes in happened to have High-Traffic and or Younger-Children playing in that same room.

If I had the exact same decision to make once again I would do the exact same thing.
My H/T was done back in November 2018.
This is now April 22nd 2020.
It still looks exactly as it did the day they finished it ...............

(But, I don't have any Younger Children and very few Adults visiting in the H/T.


Terry
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post #7371 of 7724 Old 04-22-2020, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by tigerhonaker View Post
Well that's what I did think at 1st then I had a 2nd thought that maybe you were going to really-really dilute/thin-it-down to spray it.

Okay, so your not spraying it then I am saying to you.
Use it Full-Strength for best results.
That's not my opinion at all as I am not a painter that's not my thing.
That's Rosco and also the Professional painters that actually did the work.
The real only concern is if the room the Rosco goes in happened to have High-Traffic and or Younger-Children playing in that same room.

If I had the exact same decision to make once again I would do the exact same thing.
My H/T was done back in November 2018.
This is now April 22nd 2020.
It still looks exactly as it did the day they finished it ...............

(But, I don't have any Younger Children and very few Adults visiting in the H/T.


Terry
I had no plans to dilute the Rosco. Luckily I have no animals of any species to worry about so the finish is not a concern to me. Kids are banned. I don't believe a true home theater is a place for kids to play or any other activities not directly related to viewing movies. Meaning no toys scattered about or board games or folding laundry or eating dinner etc... Otherwise, it's not a real home theater and just a family room with an entertainment system. People use the term home theater way too loosely.
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post #7372 of 7724 Old 04-22-2020, 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by wookiegr View Post
I had no plans to dilute the Rosco. Luckily I have no animals of any species to worry about so the finish is not a concern to me. Kids are banned. I don't believe a true home theater is a place for kids to play or any other activities not directly related to viewing movies. Meaning no toys scattered about or board games or folding laundry or eating dinner etc... Otherwise, it's not a real home theater and just a family room with an entertainment system.

People use the term home theater way too loosely.
I 100% agree with you .......


Based on what you have said my opinion is your going to enjoy your H/T with the Rosco applied.
It did make a noticeable improvement in mine with the overall picture.
The last thing I'm having done as soon as the Virus situation comes to a halt.
Is having the Low-Shag Deep-Black area rug installed to where it will actually go.
I cannot do that as all the gear has to be UN-Hooked, moved as well the seating to do that install.
So, have to wait until the Atmos System gets installed along with other things.

Enjoy your new Rosco Super-Deep-Black H/T buddy.










Terry
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Last edited by tigerhonaker; 04-22-2020 at 08:10 AM.
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post #7373 of 7724 Old 04-22-2020, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
@wookiegr

If you have several Rooms w/Walls (...and Ceilings...) to spray on 2 coats of Primer using a Airless Rig, then 5 Gallons almost assuredly won't be enough.

....probably at least 2 - 5 Gallon cans. No matter what.....you don't want to run out 1/2 way through a room....especially using a Airless Rig because they do not suffer running dry well. It ruins the Compressor Piston because the Piston isn't pumping air, it pumps the paint. As such there is always a bit of unused paint left.


Come the time to spray (primer) the Theater you will have developed a feel for how much paint is being delivered...how much is needed per coat...so you can then judge your needs.

As far as the Depot goes.....give then the following Dark Grey Tint number (see image) either via Phone or just drive over and have a Tech come outside and hand it to him directly...then scoot! , But specify that you want to have it mixed into a 5 Gallon can of "Tint-able" primer. 5 Gallons will of course be more than adequate to do the Theater alone, and when your done, simply dump enough of your current White primer into the depleted Grey, mix throughly and then use that to do some Walls elsewhere.

.............or you could do the opposite and have HD make up 3 Gallons of the shown mix...and after running that 5 Gallons of white down to withing 4"off the bottom of the Can, add in the 3 Gallons of Tinted Primer, still well and off you go.

Moving past the Primer issue, the Rosco will require a very large Spray tip due to it being so viscous. Count on that being absolutely necessary. (...and DO NOT try to use the larger Tip with the Primer! ) A Airless Sprayer can output /develop a tremendous amount of pressure, and it can be adjusted....but if too small a Tip is used you'll wind up with a extremely fine but very dense cloud of Paint that will go on with a very coarse texture. Texture means fragility.....especially with Rosco. You want "smooth" and dense.


Edit: Oops fer'got the image!







The image shows a quart size, but given the specific Bar Code number shown it's easy for the Paint Tech to scale up the needed Tint amounts
I will most likely get a few cans of the tinted mix you suggested. I've seen that posted a few times throughout the topic but like I said, I tried to keep it simple but it looks like I need to take the extra effort and prime the theater room differently than everywhere else. The theater room is about 23'x14'x8' and I hope 3 cans should be enough for all surfaces. I'm treating ceilings and walls all the same. I am really shooting for the next couple weeks to start priming. I will have a new pre-prime video on my channel in the coming week then another post prime video after that. Things are coming along.
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post #7374 of 7724 Old 04-22-2020, 11:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wookiegr View Post
I will most likely get a few cans of the tinted mix you suggested. I've seen that posted a few times throughout the topic but like I said, I tried to keep it simple but it looks like I need to take the extra effort and prime the theater room differently than everywhere else. The theater room is about 23'x14'x8' and I hope 3 cans should be enough for all surfaces. I'm treating ceilings and walls all the same. I am really shooting for the next couple weeks to start priming. I will have a new pre-prime video on my channel in the coming week then another post prime video after that. Things are coming along.
Hedge your bet a bit and purchase a 5 Gallon Homer Bucket, dump in 3 Gallons of the Grey in your choice of a Primer,(I suggest Kilz-2 or similar) and mix in 1 Gallon of un-tinted Primer. ( or just Tint all 4 Gallons)

I suggest that because it's better to have 2 quarts or so left than to run out / run the Rig dry....and just having a quart or less remaining in a 5 Gallon can absolutely risks the Rig sucking air.

I can't go so far as to suggest that you thin out the Rosco...that might bring down some serious wrath from the Rosco-ites. But that is what "I" would do...just enough that I would not have to change the Tip Size between Primer & Paint. You do want a smooth, texture free surface using the Rosco.


Oh what the hell...............listen carefully. I have used the same paint that is listed on the Grey Can (PPG Diamond Base 3) and I can and will state without any fear that you can "EASILY"match the performance of the horrendously expensive Rosco with a saturated Disney's Mouse Ears.....and in doing so pocket the several hundred dollars of difference.
It doesn't have to be "Tar Thick"....and it sure the 'ell doesn't have to cost as much as a good UHD-DVD Player!



Just having the Dark Grey primed undercoat alone assures you of a deeper looking Black, and the Acrylic nature of the PPG makes the surface "tighter" and preserves the depth of the Black Tint.


Ok....all ya all.....lemmie have it! I can take it! been there...gotten whammied before for bucking expensive trends.



.............but never from those I've done such painting for, so that's all that really matters.
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post #7375 of 7724 Old 04-22-2020, 11:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Hedge your bet a bit and purchase a 5 Gallon Homer Bucket, dump in 3 Gallons of the Grey in your choice of a Primer,(I suggest Kilz-2 or similar) and mix in 1 Gallon of un-tinted Primer. ( or just Tint all 4 Gallons)

I suggest that because it's better to have 2 quarts or so left than to run out / run the Rig dry....and just having a quart or less remaining in a 5 Gallon can absolutely risks the Rig sucking air.

I can't go so far as to suggest that you thin out the Rosco...that might bring down some serious wrath from the Rosco-ites. But that is what "I" would do...just enough that I would not have to change the Tip Size between Primer & Paint. You do want a smooth, texture free surface using the Rosco.


Oh what the hell...............listen carefully. I have used the same paint that is listed on the Grey Can (PPG Diamond Base 3) and I can and will state without any fear that you can "EASILY"match the performance of the horrendously expensive Rosco with a saturated Disney's Mouse Ears.....and in doing so pocket the several hundred dollars of difference.
It doesn't have to be "Tar Thick"....and it sure the 'ell doesn't have to cost as much as a good UHD-DVD Player!



Just having the Dark Grey primed undercoat alone assures you of a deeper looking Black, and the Acrylic nature of the PPG makes the surface "tighter" and preserves the depth of the Black Tint.


Ok....all ya all.....lemmie have it! I can take it! been there...gotten whammied before for bucking expensive trends.



.............but never from those I've done such painting for, so that's all that really matters.
If i can get close to the same results using another paint at a lower cost that also prevents light reflections I am all ears.... lol

Where am I to get this Mouse Ears paint cheaply? I see a 5 Gal of ultra flat at myperfectcolor for over $200.
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post #7376 of 7724 Old 04-22-2020, 11:29 AM
 
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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Hedge your bet a bit and purchase a 5 Gallon Homer Bucket, dump in 3 Gallons of the Grey in your choice of a Primer,(I suggest Kilz-2 or similar) and mix in 1 Gallon of un-tinted Primer. ( or just Tint all 4 Gallons)

I suggest that because it's better to have 2 quarts or so left than to run out / run the Rig dry....and just having a quart or less remaining in a 5 Gallon can absolutely risks the Rig sucking air.

I can't go so far as to suggest that you thin out the Rosco...that might bring down some serious wrath from the Rosco-ites. But that is what "I" would do...just enough that I would not have to change the Tip Size between Primer & Paint. You do want a smooth, texture free surface using the Rosco.


Oh what the hell...............listen carefully. I have used the same paint that is listed on the Grey Can (PPG Diamond Base 3) and I can and will state without any fear that you can "EASILY"match the performance of the horrendously expensive Rosco with a saturated Disney's Mouse Ears.....and in doing so pocket the several hundred dollars of difference.
It doesn't have to be "Tar Thick"....and it sure the 'ell doesn't have to cost as much as a good UHD-DVD Player!



Just having the Dark Grey primed undercoat alone assures you of a deeper looking Black, and the Acrylic nature of the PPG makes the surface "tighter" and preserves the depth of the Black Tint.


Ok....all ya all.....lemmie have it! I can take it! been there...gotten whammied before for bucking expensive trends.



.............but never from those I've done such painting for, so that's all that really matters.
I am 100% behind this post. Sometimes the cheaper chicken is just as good as long as you know how to cook it. This poster has given you the secret recipe and the cooking instructions.

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post #7377 of 7724 Old 04-22-2020, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Hedge your bet a bit and purchase a 5 Gallon Homer Bucket, dump in 3 Gallons of the Grey in your choice of a Primer,(I suggest Kilz-2 or similar) and mix in 1 Gallon of un-tinted Primer. ( or just Tint all 4 Gallons)

I suggest that because it's better to have 2 quarts or so left than to run out / run the Rig dry....and just having a quart or less remaining in a 5 Gallon can absolutely risks the Rig sucking air.

I can't go so far as to suggest that you thin out the Rosco...that might bring down some serious wrath from the Rosco-ites. But that is what "I" would do...just enough that I would not have to change the Tip Size between Primer & Paint. You do want a smooth, texture free surface using the Rosco.


Oh what the hell...............listen carefully. I have used the same paint that is listed on the Grey Can (PPG Diamond Base 3) and I can and will state without any fear that you can "EASILY"match the performance of the horrendously expensive Rosco with a saturated Disney's Mouse Ears.....and in doing so pocket the several hundred dollars of difference.
It doesn't have to be "Tar Thick"....and it sure the 'ell doesn't have to cost as much as a good UHD-DVD Player!



Just having the Dark Grey primed undercoat alone assures you of a deeper looking Black, and the Acrylic nature of the PPG makes the surface "tighter" and preserves the depth of the Black Tint.


Ok....all ya all.....lemmie have it! I can take it! been there...gotten whammied before for bucking expensive trends.



.............but never from those I've done such painting for, so that's all that really matters.
🤣 love ya bro!!
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post #7378 of 7724 Old 04-22-2020, 01:36 PM
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This thread ended up costing me a ton of money and lots of research.

Here's my result:
  • Benjamin Moore Premium Century Obsidian Q5 Paint for Walls & Ceiling
  • Sherwin Williams Matte SW 2739 Charcoal Blue Paint for Trim & Doors

I chose BM over Rosco because you can clean BM walls.

I chose paint over velvet because you can't create a premium look with velvet unless you're using wallpaper or you use a curtain system. I would have gone with velvet wallpaper, but installing high-quality velvet wallpaper over textured walls is prohibitively expensive. Also, velvet potentially impacts absorption / room corrections and my room is already tuned.

This is a dark pit. There's very little reflectivity even during the brightest movies scenes. With the theater hallway doors open and the hall fully lit, if you look through the doors you're looking into a black hole.

These photos required 30 second exposures at 2500 ISO. I combined the images using a 9-photo .7 stop HDR merge. That was the only way to show details and this dynamic range. The room never looks this bright in real life. And obviously the lights are off when I'm watching a movie. The Millennium Falcon was added in post.










If your browser / viewer doesn't support WebP photos go here: https://www.robgreer.com/theater

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post #7379 of 7724 Old 04-22-2020, 02:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Greer View Post
This thread ended up costing me a ton of money and lots of research.



Here's my result:


  • Benjamin Moore Premium Century Obsidian Q5 Paint for Walls & Ceiling
  • Sherwin Williams Matte SW 2739 Charcoal Blue Paint for Trim & Doors



I chose BM over Rosco because you can clean BM walls.



I chose paint over velvet because you can't create a premium look with velvet unless you're using wallpaper or you use a curtain system. I would have gone with velvet wallpaper, but installing high-quality velvet wallpaper over textured walls is prohibitively expensive. Also, velvet potentially impacts absorption / room corrections and my room is already tuned.



This is a dark pit. There's very little reflectivity even during the brightest movies scenes. With the theater hallway doors open and the hall fully lit, if you look through the doors you're looking into a black hole.



These photos required 30 second exposures at 2500 ISO. I combined the images using a 9-photo .7 stop HDR merge. That was the only way to show details and this dynamic range. The room never looks this bright in real life. And obviously the lights are off when I'm watching a movie. The Millennium Falcon was added in post.





















If your browser / viewer doesn't support WebP photos go here: https://www.robgreer.com/theater
I just dumped 5 gallons of gas in my movie room, and lit it on fire, after looking at yours......

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post #7380 of 7724 Old 04-22-2020, 11:49 PM
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I just dumped 5 gallons of gas in my movie room, and lit it on fire, after looking at yours......

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In that case, here’s something to make you feel better:





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