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Join Date: Mar 2002
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Okay… here ya go… I'm sure Geof & Jon won't mind with what they helped put together for a quick checklist (below).
My unit appears to be solid… good convergence & uniformity with only a slight brightening of the corners in hide mode (white paper test). I was left after my 3 hour testing as though the lamp does seem? to underperforming but as you'll see in my quick profile readings I am getting about 12ftL in Low and ~15ftL in High lamp mode. However this is with a wide open aperture and when I clamp down to just -3 I am only getting about 8ftL (which as I seem to remember from my 55 is on the low side).
After a quick 125pt calibration using USER1/Low/D65/2.3 gamma, the picture looks a little washed out because I was having an issue dialing in 16 & 235 and getting it set correctly so more testing will be needed tomorrow (not sure what the issue is but I do see there is an "Auto" setting for Input level so I think that could be screwing up the calibration results).
Looks to me like the color profiles will be usable this year from what I see but input from our pros here would be welcome (again keep in mind these were just quick readings as I only had 3 hours to decided whether or not I'd be keeping it (which I am, I'm happy to say).
The fan is definitely quieter in Low Mode but possibly louder in High Mode (BUT… a much lower pitch so not as "whiney" if you know what I mean).
I did have an initial lip sync issue while watching some BD material but then it cleared up replaying the same scene (weird). No there handshake issues though; even after forcing rez changes on my Denon 5308ci & Lumagen mini.
After spending some time watching TDK Returns (one of my fav black scenes is at about the 20min mark where the cops are combing thru the sewers and the Cat woman (Ann Hathoway), is in that bar. I'm not sure I can explain what I was seeing as to whether it's good or bad because the blacks are so inky black I can't tell if I love it or if the potential underperforming bulb and possibly crushing blacks has anything to do with it (again more time is needed with viewing & calibration so take all this with a grain…).
I'm going to say at this point I think I very much like what I see… but it is different from my RS55 (much, much blacker and very, very crisp… almost overly cooked at times but I have to play with the MPC settings more to know for sure). There is however a scene in TDKR (this is for Rich!), where just before going in the sewers Commisioner Gorden is holding a flashlight and as he turns toward the camera the light cut thru my cornea's light a hot knife thru butter so that's why I say I'm not just sure if there really is anything wrong with the bulb… it could just be the blacks are so black the picture just seemed a bit too dark to me at this point (IDK).
Initial CP readings (using only my iPhone as my Panny camera batt crapped out… sorry fellas!), and CP calibration report to follow…
Initial checkpoints from Jonathan to consider during your evaluation:
1) Convergence (evaluate ONLY after at least 30 minutes, and preferably 1 hour). Make sure you check carefully in all 4 corners after optimising the centre. Try if possible to replicate its actual usage position. i.e. if it is upside down on a ceiling evaluate it like that with the same lens shift if possible. SWITCH E-SHIFT OFF before evaluating convergence or focus. This is done by pressing the MPC button and setting it to off.
2) Focus uniformity. Once again evaluate at the same throw and lens shift as your final position if possible. Optimise centre focus and then check the boundaries (not just the 4 corners but the outside edges). If you are at short throw you WILL have variances…this is unavoidable
3) White/grey field uniformity. Once warmed up for at least 30 minutes, use the built-in test patterns and display the all grey and all white test screens. Check for greenish, reddish or bluish corners. Scan your eye quickly from top left to top right or from centre to top right etc to evaluate. Some variation is normal but it should not be severe
4) Light corners. This is an easy once to test for. I have found though, that one of my projectors got better with age. The current one has no light corners at all. If it is slight don’t worry about it.
5) Do a test run in calibration to see what you are starting out with. This is less about calibrating it now (as it will change in early hours) and more about seeing your starting point. Is the CMS outside the rec 709 triangle. Is the gamma within .1 or so of 2.2
6) Go to max lumens possible by using a user preset. Set the colour profile to OFF. Set bulb to high with aperture fully open. Display built-in test pattern for white screen. Take a lux reading and convert to lumens (if you need help with this let me know). Hopefully you should be somewhere near 1300
7) Evaluate correct aperture position (manual mode) by using the white test pattern on the lumagen (NOT the built-in test pattern in the projector) and correctly set it to 12-14 ftL. I don’t know how you do that on your light meter. On mine, I use a camera meter which has a spot function with viewfinder and I literally point it like a gun at the screen and take a ftL reading. This will then give you your baseline peak brightness position. Then enable auto aperture and evaluate against manual fixed.
8) Switch e-shift off and on and determine if you can hear an annoying whine or change of sound which you cannot accept. Evaluate e-shift on with white text on black or grey such as the built in menus, and see if it distorts the white text in some way like e-shift 2 does (but not e-shift 1)
9) Test all features possible. Validate 3D with glasses. Check both front and rear IR ports. Check all motors (such as lens shift, focus, zoom). Check insert filter such as used in Film or Cinema modes (audible snap sound). Go from high bulb to low and low to high and validate stability/bulb flicker.
Other thoughts from Geof…
Setup the i1D3 on a tripod and have it and the Lumagen Mini connected to your computer and ready to roll. It would be good if you can verify everything is talking and ready to go (Don’t want to be troubleshooting this when the clock is running).
Install your RS57, get it properly aimed on the screen, focus and zoom all setup, and then set contrast and brightness.
CRITICAL: Make sure you reset the Lumagen CMS memory…..all gamut and grayscale values must be zero’d out…..
Measure lux levels with a wide open aperture and again with your chosen iris setting that yields 12-15 ftL. (You may want to look at high lamp as well to ensure all is well).
For the next few minutes play with it or watch something….no tests to do until it warms up a bit, but don’t get caught up too much.
After 30 minutes or so it’s time to take a look at uniformity, focus uniformity (if you did not look at this when setting it up), and bright corners.
Next up look at the gamuts of the various color profiles. The Chromapure Color Management module works quite well for this and it is fast. If necessary you may wish to try using the internal JVC CMS to see if any out of spec condition can be corrected/minimized. I would not spend too much time here just yet…
Look at convergence. You know what to look for here….
What is your initial take? You’ll likely have to accept some gamut limitations (if they exist and are not horrible) and convergence is good.