Official JVC DLA-X900R / RS67U / RS6710U Owners Thread - Page 3 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #61 of 86 Old 09-27-2015, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Seegs108 View Post
Correct. Set the Iris mode to manual, set the position you want and then change to the auto iris mode you want. You'll notice even though the manual position is now greyed out, the position you set is still at that point. Most people use Auto Mode 2 as it's a little less aggressive.
We'll see if the upcoming JVCs will have a even lesser aggressive DI setting. I hope so. I'm a black level fanatic and am still waiting for front projection technology to get to a level close to absolute black. I think I'll have to keep waiting. All my bets are on JVC to get to that level.
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post #62 of 86 Old 09-27-2015, 06:07 PM
 
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Originally Posted by SED <--- Rules View Post
We'll see if the upcoming JVCs will have a even lesser aggressive DI setting. I hope so. I'm a black level fanatic and am still waiting for front projection technology to get to a level close to absolute black. I think I'll have to keep waiting. All my bets are on JVC to get to that level.
I forget which site said it, but someone mentioned the DI looked eerily similar in performance to last generation's DI. My guess is it's probably the same performance but we'll have to wait and see for someone to do a proper comparison with two equally setup/calibrated units.
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post #63 of 86 Old 09-29-2015, 05:44 AM
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Does anyone know if you can copy one of the presets (say THX or Stage) into User 1-4 to use as a starting point for a custom config?
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post #64 of 86 Old 09-29-2015, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by schwaggs View Post
Does anyone know if you can copy one of the presets (say THX or Stage) into User 1-4 to use as a starting point for a custom config?
As a similar question, when first setting up User1 from where does it get its starting parameters?
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post #65 of 86 Old 09-29-2015, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Seegs108 View Post
I forget which site said it, but someone mentioned the DI looked eerily similar in performance to last generation's DI. My guess is it's probably the same performance but we'll have to wait and see for someone to do a proper comparison with two equally setup/calibrated units.

Eerily. Only if you are watching a Halloween movie like Zombieland or Drag me To Hell !
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post #66 of 86 Old 10-04-2015, 07:52 AM
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Watched Avitar in 3D last night. I thought the image was perfectly bright at 120", contrary to some reviews I have read.

On a side note, has anyone used the Spears & Munsil disk to calibrate their projector? I had a tough time getting the contrast set correctly. Although, I think in the end, it was mostly due to my Blue Ray player "enhancing" the signal before sending to the projector.
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post #67 of 86 Old 10-08-2015, 03:34 AM
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Has anyone tried the cheap Samsung active 3D glasses with their JVC projector? I picked up a couple of the SSG-5150GB glasses from Amazon and I gotta say, I think they work better than the much more expensive JVC glasses that came with my projector. If you like 3D, you should give them a try. Not much to lose at $18 per pair. The Samsung had less "flicker" to me, for lack of a better word. Not sure if it was psychological, but watching with the Samsung glasses was much less fatiguing...

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post #68 of 86 Old 10-08-2015, 07:14 AM
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Originally Posted by schwaggs View Post
Has anyone tried the cheap Samsung active 3D glasses with their JVC projector? I picked up a couple of the SSG-5150GB glasses from Amazon and I gotta say, I think they work better than the much more expensive JVC glasses that came with my projector. If you like 3D, you should give them a try. Not much to lose at $18 per pair. The Samsung had less "flicker" to me, for lack of a better word. Not sure if it was psychological, but watching with the Samsung glasses was much less fatiguing...

I think you are seeing less flicker, because those glasses are darker, due to the orientation. The JVC glasses match the polarization of the projector and that gives them more brightness on some screens.
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post #69 of 86 Old 01-07-2016, 10:47 PM
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Has anyone figured out a way to easily switch the anamorphic setting on and off easily (i.e. other than going through the menu every time).

It doesn't look like the user presets hold that information--or am I missing something easy?

-Willie
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post #70 of 86 Old 03-15-2016, 10:24 AM
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We still have a couple of RS67's left at blow out prices. Give us a call at AV Science for more info.
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post #71 of 86 Old 11-03-2016, 07:11 AM
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I've listed my 6710 for sale in the classifieds if anyone is interested.

Also, suprised to find this thread died 8 months ago. Did everyone just move on to the newer models too?
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post #72 of 86 Old 11-08-2016, 10:53 PM
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I've listed my 6710 for sale in the classifieds if anyone is interested.

Also, suprised to find this thread died 8 months ago. Did everyone just move on to the newer models too?
I'd like to know too! Still have mine, but searching for a solution to the HDCP 2.2 problem. Looking at the HD Fury--anyone tried one on a RS6710?

-Willie
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post #73 of 86 Old 11-09-2016, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Willie92 View Post
I'd like to know too! Still have mine, but searching for a solution to the HDCP 2.2 problem. Looking at the HD Fury--anyone tried one on a RS6710?
It's a great projector! I'm no expert, but, aside from the 4K input and HDR, when I A/B'd them with brightness matching as best I could, I felt the 6710 had the superior picture. Black field uniformity and on/off contrast really stuck out.

Unfortunately, I needed a brighter projector. I'm lighting up ~150" 16:9 in a sunny Florida living room with poor light control.

I talked to @Mike Garrett and he mentioned people using the HD Fury Intergral to remove HDR with much success. But I'm not sure if he was talking about the current generation or this one. Maybe he or someone else can chime in.
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post #74 of 86 Old 11-09-2016, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by biliam1982 View Post
It's a great projector! I'm no expert, but, aside from the 4K input and HDR, when I A/B'd them with brightness matching as best I could, I felt the 6710 had the superior picture. Black field uniformity and on/off contrast really stuck out.

Unfortunately, I needed a brighter projector. I'm lighting up ~150" 16:9 in a sunny Florida living room with poor light control.

I talked to @Mike Garrett and he mentioned people using the HD Fury Intergral to remove HDR with much success. But I'm not sure if he was talking about the current generation or this one. Maybe he or someone else can chime in.
I was talking about the RS600/500/400 paired with an HD Fury, to remove HDR, but retain 10 bit and BT2020.
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post #75 of 86 Old 11-09-2016, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Garrett View Post
I was talking about the RS600/500/400 paired with an HD Fury, to remove HDR, but retain 10 bit and BT2020.
Thanks, Mike!

Is it possible to do the same with this gen of JVC's?
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post #76 of 86 Old 11-10-2016, 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Willie92 View Post
I'd like to know too! Still have mine, but searching for a solution to the HDCP 2.2 problem. Looking at the HD Fury--anyone tried one on a RS6710?
I have a HD Fury Integral setup with my RS-57U. There are some pros and cons. The projector is HDMI 1.4 and the Integral will down convert the HDMI 2.0a to HDMI 1.4. The problem is that the older JVC only has a bandwidth of 10.2 Gb/s and UHD really wants 18Gb/s. Because of the bandwidth issue, the JVC cannot handle HDR. The Integral will pass the 4K resolution to the JVC with no issues. But since all UHD discs are encoded with HDR, the end image has crushed whites and blacks, and the colors also are oversaturated.

The Integral can defeat HDR via the Bluetooth app but the end image is still incorrect. While a tad better, you still get crushed blacks and blown out whites. I ended up using the Samsung K8500 only for UHD playback and my older Oppo BDP-95 to playback regular Blu-Ray movies.

If it's not a BIG screen, it's not a theater...
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post #77 of 86 Old 11-10-2016, 11:15 PM
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I contacted Fury HD and they recommended a combination of the Integral and Linker. The Integral taking the output from the receiver and then the Linker taking the output from the Integral. They said that way the linker can then scale any resolution the projector does not accept. Think that would help any solve any of the issues or will the bandwidth limits cause problems? Any idea what the bandwidth of the 6710 is? (A quick Google search did not reveal the answer...)

-Willie
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post #78 of 86 Old 11-12-2016, 11:05 AM
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If the RS6710 is HDMI 1.4, the bandwidth is restricted to 10Gbps, same as my RS57. It's not the resolution you have to account for, it's the color depth. The JVC can only support 8-bit color at 4:2:0. HDR requires 10-bit color and supports 4:4:4 color space, that is why you cannot have HDR on the JVC. If the projector has eShift then it supports UHD.

If the RS6710 is HDMI 2.0a, then the Integral is not needed (I think only the RS 400/500/600 are HDMI 2.0a compatible).

My RS57 is a step down from your projector and i have no need for the Linker. I can tell you this. The JVC has horrible HDMI handshaking and adding the Integral will slow it down a bit, not much but it does.

If it's not a BIG screen, it's not a theater...
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post #79 of 86 Old 12-14-2016, 12:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Hello,

I just purchased a HDFury Integral today (well ordered anyway says it will ship after 18th December).

My current Equipment List:

Projector: JVC RS6710U
AVR: Denon X4000
Media Player: Nvidia Shield Pro
Blu Ray Player - Oppo 103D
Video Processor: Lumagen Radiance Mini

Current/Existing Chain:
Oppo 103D ---> Denon X4000 ---> Lumagen ----> JVC RS6710U HDMI Input 1
Nvidia Shield ---> Denon X4000 ---> Lumagen ----> JVC RS6710U HDMI Input 1



Future Plan based on purchase of Oppo 203 (should arrived this weekend from Oppo) and HDFury Integral:

Keep Existing Chain as is
Oppo 103D ---> Denon X4000 ---> Lumagen ----> JVC RS6710U HDMI Input 1
Nvidia Shield ---> Denon X4000 ---> Lumagen ----> JVC RS6710U HDMI Input 1 (maybe or switch to Integral Input?)

Add the following Chain:

Oppo 203---->

a) --> HDMI Out Video to Integral ---> JVC RS6710U HDMI Input 2
b) --> Second HDMI Out from Oppo 203 for Audio ---> Denon AVR X4000 (HDMI 1.4? Which Port to use or can any port be used on the AVR)


---------------

So my noob questions are:

1) Will the setup I described work (that is maintain what I have AND add the Oppo 203 and HDFury Integral to the chain to only Watch UHD discs)
2) Is the HDFury Integral the right choice?
3) Since output from Integral will be 1.4 only does it matter which cable I use (will be a 20~25ft run; If anybody has recommendations on a good cable that will be future proof to support 4k HDR when I switch projectors please mention)?
4) Do I need to load the BT2020 Color Profile that people are talking about on the RS6710u?
5) What would be the settings of the HDFury Integral/Projector etc.
6) I intend to switch to the Denon AVR 6300H in the near future and upgrade from 5.1 to 7.1.4 Atmos. Will my idea of using 1 HDMI output from the Oppo for video to integral and second for Atmos Audio (for discs encoded with Atmos either Blu-Ray or UHD) work?

PS: I intend to keep the 103D for good for its multiregion capabilities and streaming app support. So it needs to stay in the chain as well as the old Lumagen for scaling/masking (dont like to use the Projectors Lens Memory/Might have to use that only for the second/new chain I mentioned).

Thanks for your time to review the questions and provide any possible guidance.
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post #80 of 86 Old 12-14-2016, 02:49 PM
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I have a JVC RS-57U with the Samsung 8500 UHD player with a Pioneer SC-97 receiver... For me, i had to connect the Integral between the Pioneer and the JVC to get it working... i was having handshaking issues when the Integral is connected between the Samsung and the Pioneer.

My projector is HDMI 1.4a like yours. I used to have a Monster Cable HDMI with my earlier setup of a Pioneer SC-67 and a JVC RS-1 with some issues. After I upgraded to a Monster Black Platinum cable (rated for 27Gbps but I know it does not pass 18Gbps after testing), my HDMI handshaking went away with the older system.

The big problem is that the newer JVC projectors have got to be the worst in HDMI handshaking. The RS-57U and Pioneer do not like each other for some reason. I will lose HDMI signals when changing sources and the resolution was to reboot everything. Even with the Integral in line, I was having more issues but I know I could pass 4K without HDR (the JVCs do not support that).

You definitely need the Integral to convert the source HDMI 2.0a HDCP 2.2a signal to HDMI 1.4a on the JVC. HDMI 1.4a will support 4k/24Hz but will not support HDR so that is definitely out.

You will probably have to replace your HDMI cables as well. If you are going to go 4K with HDR, you will definitely have to go with a certified cable (note that quite a bit of "certified" cables fail at the 18 Gbps. The only ones i have seen that pass are the more expensive Audioquest cables. I have read that some high speed Monoprice cables seem to work, but not sure which ones.

Technically, the Oppo should pass 4K and Atmos to the receiver and the receiver should pass the 4K signal to the projector via the Integral if they are 4K compliant.
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If it's not a BIG screen, it's not a theater...
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post #81 of 86 Old 12-15-2016, 12:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon S View Post
I have a JVC RS-57U with the Samsung 8500 UHD player with a Pioneer SC-97 receiver... For me, i had to connect the Integral between the Pioneer and the JVC to get it working... i was having handshaking issues when the Integral is connected between the Samsung and the Pioneer.

My projector is HDMI 1.4a like yours. I used to have a Monster Cable HDMI with my earlier setup of a Pioneer SC-67 and a JVC RS-1 with some issues. After I upgraded to a Monster Black Platinum cable (rated for 27Gbps but I know it does not pass 18Gbps after testing), my HDMI handshaking went away with the older system.

The big problem is that the newer JVC projectors have got to be the worst in HDMI handshaking. The RS-57U and Pioneer do not like each other for some reason. I will lose HDMI signals when changing sources and the resolution was to reboot everything. Even with the Integral in line, I was having more issues but I know I could pass 4K without HDR (the JVCs do not support that).

You definitely need the Integral to convert the source HDMI 2.0a HDCP 2.2a signal to HDMI 1.4a on the JVC. HDMI 1.4a will support 4k/24Hz but will not support HDR so that is definitely out.

You will probably have to replace your HDMI cables as well. If you are going to go 4K with HDR, you will definitely have to go with a certified cable (note that quite a bit of "certified" cables fail at the 18 Gbps. The only ones i have seen that pass are the more expensive Audioquest cables. I have read that some high speed Monoprice cables seem to work, but not sure which ones.

Technically, the Oppo should pass 4K and Atmos to the receiver and the receiver should pass the 4K signal to the projector via the Integral if they are 4K compliant.
Thank you very much for the feedback and suggestions. I went with the KabelDireckt cables (purchased boh 15ft and 20ft) to try them out since some members have mentioned it works fine for up to 20ft length. Will test it outside of the conduit before I do all the extra work

Going to order a Denon 6300H this week and some elevation speakers to go Atmos. New Projector will probably have to wait until my spare lamp dies. I am still on the original lamp with no visible degradation.
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post #82 of 86 Old 12-18-2016, 04:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon S View Post
I have a JVC RS-57U with the Samsung 8500 UHD player with a Pioneer SC-97 receiver... For me, i had to connect the Integral between the Pioneer and the JVC to get it working... i was having handshaking issues when the Integral is connected between the Samsung and the Pioneer.

My projector is HDMI 1.4a like yours. I used to have a Monster Cable HDMI with my earlier setup of a Pioneer SC-67 and a JVC RS-1 with some issues. After I upgraded to a Monster Black Platinum cable (rated for 27Gbps but I know it does not pass 18Gbps after testing), my HDMI handshaking went away with the older system.

The big problem is that the newer JVC projectors have got to be the worst in HDMI handshaking. The RS-57U and Pioneer do not like each other for some reason. I will lose HDMI signals when changing sources and the resolution was to reboot everything. Even with the Integral in line, I was having more issues but I know I could pass 4K without HDR (the JVCs do not support that).

You definitely need the Integral to convert the source HDMI 2.0a HDCP 2.2a signal to HDMI 1.4a on the JVC. HDMI 1.4a will support 4k/24Hz but will not support HDR so that is definitely out.

You will probably have to replace your HDMI cables as well. If you are going to go 4K with HDR, you will definitely have to go with a certified cable (note that quite a bit of "certified" cables fail at the 18 Gbps. The only ones i have seen that pass are the more expensive Audioquest cables. I have read that some high speed Monoprice cables seem to work, but not sure which ones.

Technically, the Oppo should pass 4K and Atmos to the receiver and the receiver should pass the 4K signal to the projector via the Integral if they are 4K compliant.
Jon - I have a similar setup to yours. Between the SC-97 and JVC, I have experienced a ton of HDMI sync issues as well. When switching inputs or at startup, occasionally, I would get a double image or a green image. I found that switching the input on the JVC to the other input and back again (I only have the SC-97 connected in input 1) or changing the calibration (from THX to USER1 for example) will almost 100% clean up the sync issues. I thought I would share as rebooting everything is frustrating!
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post #83 of 86 Old 04-12-2018, 06:05 PM
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Hi,

Wow this thread is a ghost town!!

I am now the proud owner of what may be the toughest and cheapest X900R around.

A bit of background, I bought a couple of X3s and RS40s with blown ballast of a particular auction site on the cheap and have repaired one and have been using it for a couple of months. Then an X900r came up for $250AUD for parts or repair only but with a new bulb. The seller is a used HiFi gear agent from what I can see. They were evasive about what the fault was.

I decided to take a gamble and hit buy it now. I paid $250AUD + 50AUD shipping.

The projector arrives in a cardboard box with no padding!! This has been road freighted over 1000 miles like this!!

I pull it out of the box, it is scratched to hell. I have a look and someone who doesn't know what they are doing has had the front off it (Broken tabs and the diaphragm around the lens hasn't been put back). I sort out the front panel (the IR connector was disconnected as well) I decide to give it a go expecting it to either do nothing or trip the earth leakage in a shower of sparks.

It powers up first go and sits there waiting for input!! As far as I can tell the only issue is HDMI2 doesn't work!! I've put over 30 hours on it and it has been perfect. I gave the case a cut and polish and it came up like new. It is now ceiling mounted and is a massive step up from the RS40. Eshift is completely silent and the image is razor sharp.
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post #84 of 86 Old 03-18-2020, 02:31 PM
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RS6710 Dead?

I've got a DLA-RS6710 that doesn't appear to be taking any inputs from HDMI--either input 1 or input 2. Input 1 doesn't show anything on the screen--at all (although I can see the lamp is on). If I switch to Input 2, the screen turns blue and it shows me that it's on Input 2 with the resolution. But if I hook an HDMI source up to either one, I get nothing. I did a factory reset and nothing has changed. Is it f**(&d?

It was working fine a week or two ago. The only thing that's changed is I'm switching out the old Apple TVs that I had for Roku. But even the old Apple TVs won't show.

-Willie
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post #85 of 86 Old 03-18-2020, 04:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Willie92 View Post
I've got a DLA-RS6710 that doesn't appear to be taking any inputs from HDMI--either input 1 or input 2. Input 1 doesn't show anything on the screen--at all (although I can see the lamp is on). If I switch to Input 2, the screen turns blue and it shows me that it's on Input 2 with the resolution. But if I hook an HDMI source up to either one, I get nothing. I did a factory reset and nothing has changed. Is it f**(&d?

It was working fine a week or two ago. The only thing that's changed is I'm switching out the old Apple TVs that I had for Roku. But even the old Apple TVs won't show.
Have you checked, using multiple short HDMI cables, connecting sources direct to projector?
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post #86 of 86 Old 03-18-2020, 07:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Garrett View Post
Have you checked, using multiple short HDMI cables, connecting sources direct to projector?
I did. In desperation, I completely unplugged the power cable and let it sit for awhile. Plugged it back in and Shazam! Inputs are back working like normal. Musta been some spurious 'trons got stuck or something.

Shoulda known that when "re-cycle power" doesn't work that the next step should be "completely reset/re-seat power"
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-Willie
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