LS 10000 general settings and calibration for WCG.
I've been getting lots of messages daily asking about general picture settings/calibration/WCG settings etc so by popular demand I'll just post my findings here instead of replying to everyone as it takes a lot of time to do so one by one. I sold my LS a couple of days ago and forgot to take photos of the final settings I ended up using so the ones below are older but I am quite sure they are close to the final settings (I hope these are the right ones). I will try to get in touch with new owner and ask him to take some photos.
Please do note: these are my settings that worked for me very well, I am no pro so not claiming any of these are correct and on that basis it may not work for you at all or you may not agree or they may not be 100% accurate or perhaps they are spot on (it is for those who are new to the LS and or calibration space not for you advanced users so please don't start debating you may ignore it entirely I am simply answering the queries I received) it mostly depends on your room, screen, throw distance and the individual projector you have. Remember the biggest improvement will come from treating your room it can have the biggest impact on contrast and general picture quality, my settings are based on my room which is fully blacked out meaning walls, carpet, ceiling, everything I can't see my own hands during the day.
Also if you are on an older firmware you may want to update to the latest one as you may be surprised how much more performance you can squeeze out of your LS, notably brighter 3D, better motion, improved 4K enhancement, more accurate lens shift memory, etc..
For starters I recommend you start with getting a free software such as HCFR as it has all the tools you need and the learning curve is not as step as some more advanced ones such as Chromapure. I am not going to detail how the calibration is done as there are other threads for that and I assume you know the basics.
The LS is pretty damn good out of the box but of course a good calibration can take it to the next level.
I used THX mode to do the calibration on as I found that to be the closest to my liking some will prefer Natural mode.
On my 120" 1.1 gain screen I set the laser to mid mode this gave me about 13-14ftl after calibration which is pretty good.
I set the Iris to minus 5, I found this to be the sweet spot as going one step down to -6 starts to dim the laser too much this one step between -5 and -6 seems to be nearly as big as 0 to -5 for some reason, it could just be my unit but from memory all 3 PJ I had were pretty much the same.
So once this was set I did the calibration and got nearly flat gamma at 2.4 depending on your preference. Greyscale was averaging at about 0.6 delta error and colors were near perfect.
For Greyscale only a few clicks of adjustment were required see photo (do hope this is the right one but it seems so).
Blue is dominant due the nature of the laser.
RGB for greyscale:
Rec709 THX Cinema:
Here is the popular one, Wide Color Gamut mode.
The LS can do a pretty awesome 103% of DCI but it needs a full manual calibration.
This one can be tricky if you are new to the LS it took me a few rounds to get it tracking reasonably well and I may have done it wrong anyway but it seems to be correct to eye witnesses and compared to othe PJ with native BT2020 mode. HCFR has the tools you need for this exercise. Below are my settings (this I hope again is the right photo but from memeroy it should be), again this should be only taken as a baseline as it will vary unit by unit. Obviously you need to engage the filter on the PJ which you do by turning on Digital Cinema mode, again for this mode I used mid laser and -5 iris position this works well but for some darker movies high laser mode is recommended, luckily due to the laser engine, changing light mode does not seem to affect color temperature or greyscale much.
Skin tone is a little tricky and needs to be changed, I am pretty sure I adjusted the slider for WCG all the way to the left to achieve 6500K.
Important: save your settings into one of the memory slots once you are happy as if you change source it may lose the settings you have just set and you can start all over. This applies in general not just Digital Cinema mode I found the LS to be weird as it seems to apply picture modes based on source but often not the same mode that was previously set by me on that particular source so it's always good to simply reload the desired calibrated memory setting for that particular source you are using, also if you are using a PC to calibrate for WCG but you are using a UHD player to test when you switch over to the player you may not see your calibrated mode so DO save every time when you you adjust something and reload once you changed sources .
For 3D I simply entered the same calibrated color setting I used for THX mode and saved it as 3D THX. This seem to have worked well but I never validated these settings. The LS should have very minimal x talk so if you do notice some go into 3D setup and adjust the 3D depth slider until you are happy.
1080p vs 4K
I left it for last as most of you already know that the LS is capable of some exceptional sharp image reproduction however to get the best out of it you must feed 4K/2160p to it, the benefit of this is huge compared to a normal 1080p source. When you feed native UHD the 4K enhancement is automatically engaged without any additional processing and this produces some very sharp images that can come very close to native 4K from normal viewing distances, another positive and unexpected side effect of this is lower lag for gaming, due to the reduced background processing gaming response seems to be much quicker than in normal 1080p mode with processing on (this is the same on JVC e-shift.). If you must feed it 1080p sources the 4K-1 or 4K-2 modes are pretty good for upscaling but will never be as good as a native 4K source and it does introduce higher lag and some image noise making it look more digital looking and overall softer IMO.
I have remeasured at 250, 400, and 650 hours and I noticed minimal shifting which was most likely due to incorrect/different meter placement. If you use lens shift frequently you may want to readjust focus after about 10 or so shifts, I found the lens memory the best and most precise out all projectors I have owned but it still loses focus after a while.
I'll add to this when more things come to mind.
I hope this helps guys. Feel free to PM me if you have any more questions.
EDIT: forgot to mention gamma needed to be adjusted to -2 in the DC mode to achieve 2.4 flat. (could have been +2 sorry I can't remember but I know it had to be adjusted to one extreme of the scale)