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post #1 of 136 Old 06-27-2015, 09:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Replacing JVC Ballast

Hi all,

Can someone give me some tips? I'm mid way through destroying sorry attempting to repair my (way out of warranty) JVC X3 which I suspect has a broken ballast board. Can someone tell me where the board is located and any tips for getting it out? I suspect it's under the scaler board and part of the PSU as the wires from the lamp go into a sealed area. However removing this gaggle of metal appears to require some Zen skills. Any help appreciated!

Cheers,
Neil
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post #2 of 136 Old 06-30-2015, 07:45 AM
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post #3 of 136 Old 06-30-2015, 02:47 PM - Thread Starter
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That's brilliant, many thanks!
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post #4 of 136 Old 07-08-2015, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neilc71 View Post
Hi all,

Can someone give me some tips? I'm mid way through destroying sorry attempting to repair my (way out of warranty) JVC X3 which I suspect has a broken ballast board. Can someone tell me where the board is located and any tips for getting it out? I suspect it's under the scaler board and part of the PSU as the wires from the lamp go into a sealed area. However removing this gaggle of metal appears to require some Zen skills. Any help appreciated!

Cheers,
Neil
Same issue here, where can you buy a replacement ballast? I can't seem to find where you can just get the part.

As a side note, mine seemed to die over a long period of time. At first, if you tried to restart the projector shortly after it had been on it would have this behavior but just unplugging and then plugging back in worked. Then, it got to where it would need to be off for an hour or two and then would come back on OK.
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post #5 of 136 Old 07-12-2015, 08:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Yes, mine did exactly the same. I've only just managed to get to the ballast board, so I'm going to inspect it and see if I can find somewhere to get the board. Will post back.
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post #6 of 136 Old 07-12-2015, 09:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Hmm.. the ballast is by Rubycon and it's part number is RPB-0526GA but I can't find anywhere to buy it either. Will keep looking and try Rubycon direct.
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post #7 of 136 Old 07-12-2015, 09:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neilc71 View Post
Hmm.. the ballast is by Rubycon and it's part number is RPB-0526GA but I can't find anywhere to buy it either. Will keep looking and try Rubycon direct.
As posted in another thread it's apparently made by Sumida, but can't find anything by them either.
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post #8 of 136 Old 07-12-2015, 09:33 AM - Thread Starter
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post #9 of 136 Old 07-12-2015, 09:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Looks like you can also buy it here if you're in the USA.. not much use to me!!

http://www.jvcservice.com/service/JP...br=QAL1305-001
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post #10 of 136 Old 07-12-2015, 09:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Sorry for all the posts! lol

This is the authorised repairer in the UK, I've asked them if I can buy a ballast from them direct.

http://www.sontec.co.uk/
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post #11 of 136 Old 07-16-2015, 11:48 AM
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I was able to get one from Encompass (https://www.encompassparts.com/item/...01/Ballast_Pwb). Shipped quickly and I was able to install it fine and get back up and running.
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post #12 of 136 Old 08-24-2015, 04:35 PM
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Hi all,

first post due to same problem with an X3 in Europe.
I get the "lamp wont start" blinking sequence of the leds.

Voltage output of the PSU is 384VDC during boot up.
How do I check the ballast which is most probably the problem?
As neilc71 posted above it is model RPB-0526GA from Rubycon.

What voltage should I measure to the lamp?

Thanks
Dimitris
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post #13 of 136 Old 02-03-2018, 12:36 PM
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Exclamation Jvc dla-x3-we

Please my JVC DLA-X3-WE has gone down with this dreaded 3 red lights. Did anyone get his working after installing a new lamp ballast?
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post #14 of 136 Old 05-22-2018, 04:10 AM
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Hi guys,

I'm trying to disassemble my RS49 (x500) to get to the ballast board but am getting stuck in removing the HDMI/Processor board.
All screws have been removed but it's not coming off. I'm guessing at this point that they've used some kind of adhesive cooling paste to provide contact from the processor on the underside of the board to the heatsink that is part of the underlying metal construction.

Would it be enough to use a heatgun to detach the board from the heatsink?
I'm a bit wary that I'll end up ruining a board that is a lot more expensive than the ballast board that I'm trying to get to...
Would be interested to know how you guys went about it and if you met the same resistance in removing the processor board.

Thx in advance for the assist!
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post #15 of 136 Old 05-22-2018, 10:21 PM
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I've done 2x X3/RS40 ballasts, it is mounted directly above the PSU. All the boards on that side have to come out to remove the metal plate the ballast is bolted to.

Please, please, please - if you don't know what you are doing stay away from attempting this as the risk of serious injury or worse is very real.

If you get any sort of electrical shock while working on this you need to get your heart checked for damage.

Tukkae - how do you know your x500 needs a ballast? I thought there were pretty reliable in the later JVCs.

karalisd - 384VDC from the PSU is correct, it "should" be about that AC on the output of the ballast. The ballast itself detects if it is putting out the correct voltage, that is how the projector gets the error.
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post #16 of 136 Old 05-23-2018, 02:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luke Purcell View Post
I've done 2x X3/RS40 ballasts, it is mounted directly above the PSU. All the boards on that side have to come out to remove the metal plate the ballast is bolted to.

Please, please, please - if you don't know what you are doing stay away from attempting this as the risk of serious injury or worse is very real.

If you get any sort of electrical shock while working on this you need to get your heart checked for damage.

Tukkae - how do you know your x500 needs a ballast? I thought there were pretty reliable in the later JVCs.

karalisd - 384VDC from the PSU is correct, it "should" be about that AC on the output of the ballast. The ballast itself detects if it is putting out the correct voltage, that is how the projector gets the error.
Hi Luke, I know where the ballast is located but for some reason on the x500 it might be even worse to get to. The PJ has been unplugged for long enough before I started working on it, so I should not be at risk of electrical shock.

The reason why I think I need a new ballast is that I originally thought I had a lamp issue (as described here https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-dig...ot-my-jvc.html) but after reading up, I believe the behaviour of my PJ is more in line with a ballast issue. Especially since I only have 225 hours on my lamp.


So the problem I'm facing right now is that the processor board on the top right is not coming off.
The only way around it is to be able to remove the entire tray that sits across the PJ and separates the electronics from the lens assy. However that also doesn't work because there are screws that are impossible to get to at the bottom which would indicate that the processor board needs to come out first.
I'm obviously reluctant to use too much force to try and remove the processor board since it's not something that should require any when the top screws have been removed. However, like I said, I believe that the actual CPU that sits on the underside of the board is attached to the underlying metal frame and built-in heatsink by way of adhesive cooling paste. Any tips to remove this would be very welcome.
Did you face the same issue when working on the RS45's you had Luke??

Thx
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post #17 of 136 Old 05-26-2018, 08:42 PM
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Did you remove the processor board ok? Or did you still need some assistance? I doubt there is any adhesive to remove and that while slightly different it is likely more the same as the x3 - namely I recall one cable on the bottom (right next to divider) of the board that comes off fairly easy with a bit of upward pressure (on the board) and two cables that you need to disconnect on the other side of the divider - the cables go through the square hole. Let me know if the above isn't clear.
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post #18 of 136 Old 05-27-2018, 12:02 AM
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Tukkae

No there is no glue or thermal grease.
Unscrew the bolts in xdmi (2 pieces) and next to the LAN under the cover is another black bolt, which also holds the processor board.
In the upper left corner of the bottom there will be a power supply line from the BP, remove it gently, pull out the board a little and disconnect.
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post #19 of 136 Old 05-30-2018, 06:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tukkae View Post
Hi Luke, I know where the ballast is located but for some reason on the x500 it might be even worse to get to. The PJ has been unplugged for long enough before I started working on it, so I should not be at risk of electrical shock.

The reason why I think I need a new ballast is that I originally thought I had a lamp issue (as described here https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-dig...ot-my-jvc.html) but after reading up, I believe the behaviour of my PJ is more in line with a ballast issue. Especially since I only have 225 hours on my lamp.


So the problem I'm facing right now is that the processor board on the top right is not coming off.
The only way around it is to be able to remove the entire tray that sits across the PJ and separates the electronics from the lens assy. However that also doesn't work because there are screws that are impossible to get to at the bottom which would indicate that the processor board needs to come out first.
I'm obviously reluctant to use too much force to try and remove the processor board since it's not something that should require any when the top screws have been removed. However, like I said, I believe that the actual CPU that sits on the underside of the board is attached to the underlying metal frame and built-in heatsink by way of adhesive cooling paste. Any tips to remove this would be very welcome.
Did you face the same issue when working on the RS45's you had Luke??

Thx
Sorry I haven't replied sooner.

OK so surprisingly that looks identical to the X3. Is the processor board moving at all? The main power cable to the board plugs in from underneath so maybe that is wedged. Also there are data cables plugging in to the processor board from the optical side of the metal divider.

The ballast is screwed in to the black plastic bracket underneath the processor board so you need to take that metal bracket out to get to it. I think JVC made this such a PITA to scare off home repairs
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post #20 of 136 Old 06-02-2018, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Luke Purcell View Post
Sorry I haven't replied sooner.

OK so surprisingly that looks identical to the X3. Is the processor board moving at all? The main power cable to the board plugs in from underneath so maybe that is wedged. Also there are data cables plugging in to the processor board from the optical side of the metal divider.

The ballast is screwed in to the black plastic bracket underneath the processor board so you need to take that metal bracket out to get to it. I think JVC made this such a PITA to scare off home repairs
For sure it's a PITA. I'm currently disassembling an RS20, there are wires crossing over most of the parts, as if it weren't enough having to take them off to reach the part I need.
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post #21 of 136 Old 06-21-2018, 03:44 AM
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Hi guys, sorry for the long wait but no, I still haven't been able to make any progress...
I'm absolutely positive I have disconnected absolutely everything attached to this card and I still can't lift it out.
I wanted to upload a video (but unfortunately mp4 files are not allowed on AVS ) which shows that the board can be lift up from the sides a little, but it's in the center where it sticks...
That's where the CPU on the HDMI processing board sits and hence my reason for thinking they've used some kind of adhesive thermal paste...
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post #22 of 136 Old 06-21-2018, 05:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Tukkae View Post
Hi guys, sorry for the long wait but no, I still haven't been able to make any progress...
I'm absolutely positive I have disconnected absolutely everything attached to this card and I still can't lift it out.
I wanted to upload a video (but unfortunately mp4 files are not allowed on AVS ) which shows that the board can be lift up from the sides a little, but it's in the center where it sticks...
That's where the CPU on the HDMI processing board sits and hence my reason for thinking they've used some kind of adhesive thermal paste...
upload the video to youtube and make it unlisted so it is not out in the public and post the link here so we can see.

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post #23 of 136 Old 07-17-2018, 09:09 PM
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upload the video to youtube and make it unlisted so it is not out in the public and post the link here so we can see.

Actually did in on Vimeo just now (Finally got around to it!!!)

The PJ is still sitting there... I've just been putting it off because I'm so frustrated by it...


If anyone knows what's going on here feel free to chime in!
If you need to have a clearer view, happy to upload more vids. Should be able to do it more quickly now as I'm keen to get it over and done with
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post #24 of 136 Old 07-17-2018, 11:00 PM
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Ok to me the chassis looks identical to an X3. That video looked really tiny in my browser but it looks like you got all the screws. I still think they may be cables under the board that are holding the board down.
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post #25 of 136 Old 07-18-2018, 01:17 AM
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Hmmmm... I thought you would be able to fullscreen it but guess I was wrong.
You can go direct to the Vimeo site if you prefer
h t t p s://vimeo.com/280474222


As far as cables underneath are concerned, it's very hard to film but I can assure there aren't any there. And if there would be it would be impossible to get to them to disconnect. The only cable coming from underneath goes to the side of the board and has been disconnected.

Last edited by Tukkae; 07-18-2018 at 01:38 AM.
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post #26 of 136 Old 07-18-2018, 05:55 PM
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OK I took a quick look at an X3 I've got apart at the moment.


There are six screws holding the board down. I also took a photo holding the board up to show the power connector. I hope this helps. You may need to use a little bit of force/jiggling to get the board off.


h t t p s ://photos.app.goo.gl/6J6hSpLQVNAV6gnq8
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post #27 of 136 Old 07-19-2018, 10:48 PM
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Hi Luke, thx for sharing! There is one obvious difference instantly visible: your CPU has a black heatsink directly attached. As far as I can see with mine, the heatsink is actually part of the underlying structure. I'll see if I can take a picture of it to make it more obvious.
It kind of reinforces my theory that in my case thermal adhesive was applied to ensure that there was always contact between the CPU and the heatsink/underlying structure.

Maybethey wanted to increase cooling capability by increasing the heatsink size. I would have hoped however that they would just put on a bigger heatsink period and not having the setup in the way I'm seeing it now...

If my theory is right that still doesn't tell me how to remove mine however. When I pull up the board from the sides the board it clearly just stays stuck around the CPU area and the board flexes towards the sides. I'm thinking about using a heatgun but a bit fearful to fry the board...
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post #28 of 136 Old 07-22-2018, 04:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tukkae View Post
Hi Luke, thx for sharing! There is one obvious difference instantly visible: your CPU has a black heatsink directly attached. As far as I can see with mine, the heatsink is actually part of the underlying structure. I'll see if I can take a picture of it to make it more obvious.
It kind of reinforces my theory that in my case thermal adhesive was applied to ensure that there was always contact between the CPU and the heatsink/underlying structure.

Maybethey wanted to increase cooling capability by increasing the heatsink size. I would have hoped however that they would just put on a bigger heatsink period and not having the setup in the way I'm seeing it now...

If my theory is right that still doesn't tell me how to remove mine however. When I pull up the board from the sides the board it clearly just stays stuck around the CPU area and the board flexes towards the sides. I'm thinking about using a heatgun but a bit fearful to fry the board...
The heatsink and chassis are both metal, maybe you can try getting a screwdriver between them.

If the chassis is the same as teh X3 you have to get the board off.
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post #29 of 136 Old 07-22-2018, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Luke Purcell View Post
The heatsink and chassis are both metal, maybe you can try getting a screwdriver between them.

If the chassis is the same as teh X3 you have to get the board off.

Afraid not, the heatsink is actually part of the chassis. The chassis is 'molded' for lack of better word to be the actual heatsink...
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post #30 of 136 Old 07-22-2018, 11:40 PM
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Well maybe you can pull the big metal bracket off without removing the main board. Can you see if there are any other screws under the board?
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