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post #3271 of 3286 Old 04-14-2019, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by yegor00 View Post
When streaming movie from Apple TV in 4K I get HDR in my calibrated Reference and User modes.
But when I play something from Amazon Prime ( Hanna ) or Netflix - I have to switch to non HDR mode ( like TV or Bright Cinema ) as the picture becomes overly saturated and red.
Anyone knows if I'm missing something?
In the setup of your Apple TV make sure that you have Match Frame Rate and Match Resolution turned on. Most movie content is 24 fps and the Apple TV will send this as 24 fps to your 665 and it will play fine with HDR since 24 fps 4K + HDR is within the 10.2 Gb bandwidth of the 665. However without turning on Match Frame Rate and Match Resolution on your Apple TV, the streaming content from Amazon and Netflix is sent at 60 fps and will be beyond the bandwidth of your 665 to display properly. Also make sure that you have HDR on the 665 set to Auto. If you are in doubt about what is being sent to your 665, go to the "info" in the 665 menu and look at the frame rate and resolution. HDR on the 665 must be at no higher frame rate that 24 fps and the resolution must be UHD for HDR content. Note also that when you select streaming content on Amazon or Netflix pay careful attention to whether it says UHD or not. Amazon, especially makes it confusing because a lot of their streaming content is posted at both 4K UHD and HD. You must select the 4K UHD version to get HDR.

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post #3272 of 3286 Old 05-05-2019, 12:05 AM
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Im trying to do panel alignment for my sony 520es / 665es projector and i can’t seem to align the blue lines completely. I already tried with shift and zone but can’t get the blue lines to align properly. Is my projector already deffective or is it normal?
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post #3273 of 3286 Old 05-05-2019, 05:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qwerty_88 View Post
Im trying to do panel alignment for my sony 520es / 665es projector and i can’t seem to align the blue lines completely. I already tried with shift and zone but can’t get the blue lines to align properly. Is my projector already deffective or is it normal?
Hi.
You cannot adjust the blue panel. Only the red and green in relation to the blue.

I suggest resetting the alignment in the user menu and then waiting for an hour or two for the projector to warm up properly before performing any alignment.

Try to avoid using zone alignment if at all possible.

Can you post some pictures of what you are seeing?

“Remember to look up at the stars and not down at your feet. Be curious. And however difficult life may seem, there is always something you can do and succeed at. It matters that you don’t just give up."
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post #3274 of 3286 Old 05-05-2019, 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Archibald1 View Post
Hi.

You cannot adjust the blue panel. Only the red and green in relation to the blue.



I suggest resetting the alignment in the user menu and then waiting for an hour or two for the projector to warm up properly before performing any alignment.



Try to avoid using zone alignment if at all possible.



Can you post some pictures of what you are seeing?


In my menu I can adjust the RED “R” and BLUE “B” lines. The Green line is fixed as far as I remember.

Why is it not recommended to use “zone” alignment? What if the “shift” wouldn’t make all the Red and Blue lines aligned?

I will try to do it again and let projector warm up first. I think I was not able to do this before. Thanks for the inputs.
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post #3275 of 3286 Old 05-05-2019, 11:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qwerty_88 View Post
In my menu I can adjust the RED “R” and BLUE “B” lines. The Green line is fixed as far as I remember.

Why is it not recommended to use “zone” alignment? What if the “shift” wouldn’t make all the Red and Blue lines aligned?

I will try to do it again and let projector warm up first. I think I was not able to do this before. Thanks for the inputs.
Sorry, I meant the green panel.
using zone alignme t can cause all sorts of processing anomalies and can break one to one pixel resolution. so avoid if at all possible.
There are a couple of service menu tweaks you can do if you cannot get the R&B aligned satisfactorily.
Be aware it will never be perfect either. Such is the nature of three chip designs.
Also bear in mind what you are seeing may be chromatic aberration from the lens, not misalignment.
Let us know your got get on and pics would help if possible.

“Remember to look up at the stars and not down at your feet. Be curious. And however difficult life may seem, there is always something you can do and succeed at. It matters that you don’t just give up."
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post #3276 of 3286 Old 05-05-2019, 10:10 PM
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I have a very odd issue with my VPL-VW665ES and I'm not sure what to do. Basically, if I leave the unit plugged in after shutting it down (red light stays on), it will get to a point where I cannot turn it on at all - not with the remote or the power button. Unplugging it and even leaving it unplugged for 10 minutes or more then plugging it in won't resolve the issue.

However, if I unplug the unit after use and then replug it in the next time I want to use it, it will go through it's couple click startup sequence and it turns on every time. I've verified this over several weeks now after spending countless hours of frustration not knowing that the above steps could be used as a workaround. I even sent the unit in once to Sony under warranty before I knew this and of course, they just plugged it in and said it looks fine. I didn't know at the time it would need to stay plugged in to produce the issue I was having.

So my questions are:
1) What is going on?
2) Is it safe to just live with the inconvenience of having to unplug it after use so I don't have to send it off again?
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post #3277 of 3286 Old 05-05-2019, 10:37 PM
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haven't checked in this thread in a long time.

I just replaced my bulb for the second time. I know the specs say 6000 hours but twice now the bulb shows obvious low brightness after 4200 or so hours. Probably because I use it on max brightness for all UHD and 3D content. Low brightness for all TV channels.

I buy the bare bulb and install it in the lamp assembly as that is much lower cost.



TaurineFueled- My guess is that the projector is in protection mode due to heat. It wants to keep the fans running to cool things down ( flashing green light ) If you unplug the projector after shutting it off the fans do not run and heat can cause damage. I operate my 665 on a UPS that prevents it from going out during a power outage. It's big enough to run the projector for 30 minutes at full brightness. Plenty of time to power it down normally.

It's a bad idea to kill the power to the projector without letting it run through it's cool down period, I believe. I've heard of other projector owners using a main power switch to shut things down. Some components should be left plugged in, such as the satellite receivers and DVR's in addition to the projector. Another thing to check is if the projector's vents are blocked with dust. This can lower fan efficiency and cause heat buildup.

You might also consider reflashing your firmware with the latest updates. I recall there were two? updates I did on my projector.
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Don Landis HT System: Projector Sony VPL VW665ES Players: Samsung UBD K8500 OPPO BD93 Sony BDP S6200 All Regions Player Denon AVR S940, 7.1 JBL Professional series and Klipsch PS3, XBOX360, Dish VIP722K; 3D Edit Suite:Adobe Premiere, Edius7.53, Vegas Pro v13, Power Director16, i9-7980XE/GTX1080Ti, LG 3D TV DM2752

Last edited by Don Landis; 05-05-2019 at 10:43 PM.
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post #3278 of 3286 Old 05-07-2019, 05:40 PM
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There is always power to the projector and I know what you are talking about - in fact I now wait until that completes and the flashing green light turns red and the fans shut down before pulling the plug. The light when it won't power on is red and sometimes you will hear something trying to click when you hit power, sometimes nothing. Randomly I'll also get the two red light blinking, but that's very intermittent... however no fans are running and this could be after days since it was last turned on. All I know is if I leave it plugged in, I can expect this to happen everytime - it started intermittently over months and now it's consistent. I'm contacting Sony now as well... I think I'm on one firmware before this latest one, but I might try the newest one after seeing what they say.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Landis View Post
haven't checked in this thread in a long time.

I just replaced my bulb for the second time. I know the specs say 6000 hours but twice now the bulb shows obvious low brightness after 4200 or so hours. Probably because I use it on max brightness for all UHD and 3D content. Low brightness for all TV channels.

I buy the bare bulb and install it in the lamp assembly as that is much lower cost.



TaurineFueled- My guess is that the projector is in protection mode due to heat. It wants to keep the fans running to cool things down ( flashing green light ) If you unplug the projector after shutting it off the fans do not run and heat can cause damage. I operate my 665 on a UPS that prevents it from going out during a power outage. It's big enough to run the projector for 30 minutes at full brightness. Plenty of time to power it down normally.

It's a bad idea to kill the power to the projector without letting it run through it's cool down period, I believe. I've heard of other projector owners using a main power switch to shut things down. Some components should be left plugged in, such as the satellite receivers and DVR's in addition to the projector. Another thing to check is if the projector's vents are blocked with dust. This can lower fan efficiency and cause heat buildup.

You might also consider reflashing your firmware with the latest updates. I recall there were two? updates I did on my projector.
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post #3279 of 3286 Old 05-10-2019, 05:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archibald1 View Post
Sorry, I meant the green panel.
using zone alignme t can cause all sorts of processing anomalies and can break one to one pixel resolution. so avoid if at all possible.
There are a couple of service menu tweaks you can do if you cannot get the R&B aligned satisfactorily.
Be aware it will never be perfect either. Such is the nature of three chip designs.
Also bear in mind what you are seeing may be chromatic aberration from the lens, not misalignment.
Let us know your got get on and pics would help if possible.

See attached photos. So i reset my panel and tried to adjust with SHIFT. I cannot get them to align properly, blue and red are still way off.

Should I use “ZONE” alignment to make it as close as possible?

Any way I can fix this? Or is my projector bad already?







Last edited by qwerty_88; 05-10-2019 at 05:23 AM.
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post #3280 of 3286 Old 05-10-2019, 05:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qwerty_88 View Post
See attached photos. So i reset my panel and tried to adjust with SHIFT. I cannot get them to align properly, blue and red are still way off.

Any way I can fix this? Or is my projector bad already?


Spoiler!
Thanks for posting those up.

That looks like bad physical alignment to me. Not going to be correctable from the menus as the lines are not even parallel.

Is your unit still under warranty? How long have you had it?

Even if it is not under warranty it may still be worth contacting your dealer or Sony Prime Support directly.

My guess is they would want to swap the entire optical block as they don't tend to root around to realign stuff like that. If paying for such, it will be expensive. Probably replacing your projector would be more cost effective, expensive.

“Remember to look up at the stars and not down at your feet. Be curious. And however difficult life may seem, there is always something you can do and succeed at. It matters that you don’t just give up."
Stephen Hawking.
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post #3281 of 3286 Old 05-10-2019, 06:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archibald1 View Post
Thanks for posting those up.



That looks like bad physical alignment to me. Not going to be correctable from the menus as the lines are not even parallel.



Is your unit still under warranty? How long have you had it?



Even if it is not under warranty it may still be worth contacting your dealer or Sony Prime Support directly.



My guess is they would want to swap the entire optical block as they don't tend to root around to realign stuff like that. If paying for such, it will be expensive. Probably replacing your projector would be more cost effective, expensive.


My projector is ceiling mounted and i think it is not properly aligned because when it projects on my screen i can see that its not entirely filled. And the projected image is not straight on the bottom of the screen.

Could this be the reason why the blue and red panels are not aligned?

I also tried using “Zone” alignment after the “Shift” alignment. It is quite better now but there’s still some parts of the screen that the red and blue won’t align.
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post #3282 of 3286 Old 05-14-2019, 06:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qwerty_88 View Post
My projector is ceiling mounted and i think it is not properly aligned because when it projects on my screen i can see that its not entirely filled. And the projected image is not straight on the bottom of the screen.

Could this be the reason why the blue and red panels are not aligned?

I also tried using “Zone” alignment after the “Shift” alignment. It is quite better now but there’s still some parts of the screen that the red and blue won’t align.
Could you post a picture of how the whole screen looks with the pattern up, to illustrate?

To get your screen properly aligned means getting all edges of the image parallel to the four borders of the screen and then using the zoom and shift to move the whole lens assembly left and right or up and down and finally focussing.

Ideally the projector should be perfectly level on both axis.

Screen alignment will not be the cause of the panel misalignment.

Was this unit brand new? If so get in touch with Sony and get a warranty repair.
If second hand, you could still get it repaired but it many be prohibitively costly.

One thing to try (if you haven't already) is to do a FULL Reset. It should be on the 'Setup menu' page. Fourth item down on the menus I think.
It puts everything back to factory defaults. If you still have misalignment to the same degree after that, it looks to be almost certainly physical in nature.

Let us know how you get on.

“Remember to look up at the stars and not down at your feet. Be curious. And however difficult life may seem, there is always something you can do and succeed at. It matters that you don’t just give up."
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post #3283 of 3286 Old 05-14-2019, 06:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qwerty_88 View Post
My projector is ceiling mounted and i think it is not properly aligned because when it projects on my screen i can see that its not entirely filled...........

The Sony 4K projectors are true 4K resolution so they are using a 17:9 aspect ratio. If your screen is 16:9, you won’t fill it based on the built in test patterns on the Sony.
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post #3284 of 3286 Old 05-15-2019, 04:44 AM
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Quote:
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The Sony 4K projectors are true 4K resolution so they are using a 17:9 aspect ratio. If your screen is 16:9, you won’t fill it based on the built in test patterns on the Sony.
To fill a 16:9 screen with Sony 4K projectors you need to zoom to the following portion of the test pattern:


“Remember to look up at the stars and not down at your feet. Be curious. And however difficult life may seem, there is always something you can do and succeed at. It matters that you don’t just give up."
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post #3285 of 3286 Old 05-15-2019, 05:01 PM
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Quick question...

I'm currently using 16:9 screen.

I want to see what 2.35:1 looks like in my theater.

2 questions:

1) How do I switch it? When I hit the aspect button on the remote it says 2.35:1 zoomed but I think it's because I was on apple tv and my content was 16:9
2) For those of you with 2.35:1 currently are you zoomed like my apple tv menu experience or do you get black bars?

Thank you.
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post #3286 of 3286 Old 05-16-2019, 06:17 PM
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You should always keep any video format the standard 3840 pixels wide. If you digitally zoom out to the panels width of 4096, you will lose detail as you lose 1:1 pixel (or nice, clean 1:4) scaling. There are no consumer formats at 4096, so only use those sides if you're doing computer work.

The two ways to do scope are zoom/shift, which is the standard constant width of video content's ratios from 1.78 and above. Or you can vertically stretch to 2160 tall and then anamorphic stretch it wide.

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