Official JVC RS600 / RS500 (X950R / X750R - X9000 / X7000) Owners Thread - Page 1049 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31441 of 32123 Old 01-01-2019, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by StevenC56 View Post
To be honest with you, I have no idea how to go about checking the "nits" on my display. I'm sure it would help to know about how to set the brightness level and I even purchased a light meter a couple years ago. But I'll have to be schooled how on to actually do this.
That's fine, I'm sure there'll be someone to help out how to use a light meter. I don't have one so sorry i couldn't help with that...But once you know how to measure, all you're gonna need is some info of your screen dimension (for screen area) and screen gain and plug those data into a formula to calculate in foot-lamberts reading which will be later converted into nits...

Bottom line is there's very little to worry about setting the player correctly by following his posts on that thread.

Found the link that you can use as a reference later:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...projector.html

Converting fL to nits:

http://www.unitconversion.org/lumina...onversion.html

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post #31442 of 32123 Old 01-01-2019, 08:42 PM
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That's fine, I'm sure there'll be someone to help out how to use a light meter. I don't have one so sorry i couldn't help with that...But once you know how to measure, all you're gonna need is some info of your screen dimension (for screen area) and screen gain and plug those data into a formula to calculate in foot-lamberts reading which will be later converted into nits...

Bottom line is there's very little to worry about setting the player correctly by following his posts on that thread
I have a light meter also and have no idea how to use it. I bought the one everyone suggested (AEMC CA813) a year ago when I was fighting dark HDR and being told it was my projector. Once I saw the beauty of SDR2020 via the UB900+Vertex (then the UB820), my dark HDR problems went away and I didn’t care anymore. I should figure it out though, it’d be nice to know how it works.
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post #31443 of 32123 Old 01-01-2019, 09:09 PM
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I have a light meter also and have no idea how to use it. I bought the one everyone suggested (AEMC CA813) a year ago when I was fighting dark HDR and being told it was my projector. Once I saw the beauty of SDR2020 via the UB900+Vertex (then the UB820), my dark HDR problems went away and I didn’t care anymore. I should figure it out though, it’d be nice to know how it works.
I bought an inexpensive Dr.Meter LX1330B, so I'm not out that much $. Maybe someone here can give us a step by step on how to use these meters?

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post #31444 of 32123 Old 01-01-2019, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by StevenC56 View Post
I bought an inexpensive Dr.Meter LX1330B, so I'm not out that much $. Maybe someone here can give us a step by step on how to use these meters?
Someone tried to explain it to me once and I got lost.
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post #31445 of 32123 Old 01-02-2019, 04:44 AM
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Originally Posted by StevenC56 View Post
I bought an inexpensive Dr.Meter LX1330B, so I'm not out that much $. Maybe someone here can give us a step by step on how to use these meters?
nothing much to it. you put the meter on Fc (foot candle) scale so can read around 0-50 ? then with a white screen playing (use a pattern from any number of test discs - i use wow disney) you then place the meter dead centre of screen facing back towards the projector. multiply the Fc reading by your screen gain. eg in my case is 1.1 to get your FL (foot lambert reading)

adjust the iris on your projector for SDR (Blu-ray/dvd) so seeing something in the order of 12-14 FL centre of screen (smpte luminance standard for digital projection)

then swap to setup for HDR. you want around 30FL middle of the screen. this equates to about 100 nits

can use this convertor for covering between FL / nits
http://www.unitconversion.org/lumina...onversion.html

is this what you are looking for in relation to the basics ?
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post #31446 of 32123 Old 01-02-2019, 04:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Ximori View Post
That's fine, I'm sure there'll be someone to help out how to use a light meter. I don't have one so sorry i couldn't help with that...But once you know how to measure, all you're gonna need is some info of your screen dimension (for screen area) and screen gain and plug those data into a formula to calculate in foot-lamberts reading which will be later converted into nits...

Bottom line is there's very little to worry about setting the player correctly by following his posts on that thread.
FL = screen gain x Fc where Fc is whats measured by meter, so dont need to plug screen dimensions into a formula

Its pretty essential you have the right luminance set in my opinion and experience for both SDR or HDR

and something have to tweak every 200 hours or so I'd suggest to take care of lamp drop off as ages. not that there is a huge amount of drop off with this series of JVC but still you want to have whipped into shape and only take a few minutes otherwise screen will gradually dim over time (and not something will likely realise because so gradual) but really wont be enjoying to the best
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post #31447 of 32123 Old 01-02-2019, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by alebonau View Post
FL = screen gain x Fc where Fc is whats measured by meter, so dont need to plug screen dimensions into a formula

Its pretty essential you have the right luminance set in my opinion and experience for both SDR or HDR

and something have to tweak every 200 hours or so I'd suggest to take care of lamp drop off as ages. not that there is a huge amount of drop off with this series of JVC but still you want to have whipped into shape and only take a few minutes otherwise screen will gradually dim over time (and not something will likely realise because so gradual) but really wont be enjoying to the best
Lol, thanks!
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post #31448 of 32123 Old 01-02-2019, 11:54 AM
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Someone tried to explain it to me once and I got lost.
What can i say...you're gonna keep using that light meter as long as you stick with lamps

btw are you getting any of the newer models or just wait another year or two?
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post #31449 of 32123 Old 01-02-2019, 12:47 PM
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What can i say...you're gonna keep using that light meter as long as you stick with lamps

btw are you getting any of the newer models or just wait another year or two?
I want that NX7 projector and I can get a screaming good deal on one but I'm a bit nervous JVC will put out another replacement in 12-18 months again. I kinda liked it when you could go 24+ months having a current model projector. Truth is, my projector looks mighty fine paired with the Panasonic UB820. Enough so that I'm finally completely satisfied with my picture quality. Perhaps if I get an offer on my RS400 I'll upgrade.
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post #31450 of 32123 Old 01-02-2019, 01:43 PM
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I want that NX7 projector and I can get a screaming good deal on one but I'm a bit nervous JVC will put out another replacement in 12-18 months again. I kinda liked it when you could go 24+ months having a current model projector. Truth is, my projector looks mighty fine paired with the Panasonic UB820. Enough so that I'm finally completely satisfied with my picture quality. Perhaps if I get an offer on my RS400 I'll upgrade.
Yeah i know what you mean...I'm a bit more disappointed by their CR and lumen spec not taking it up a notch, and not so much by how HDR titles will be handled as if we now have a reliable player doing that...
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post #31451 of 32123 Old 01-02-2019, 02:29 PM
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nothing much to it. you put the meter on Fc (foot candle) scale so can read around 0-50 ? then with a white screen playing (use a pattern from any number of test discs - i use wow disney) you then place the meter dead centre of screen facing back towards the projector. multiply the Fc reading by your screen gain. eg in my case is 1.1 to get your FL (foot lambert reading)

adjust the iris on your projector for SDR (Blu-ray/dvd) so seeing something in the order of 12-14 FL centre of screen (smpte luminance standard for digital projection)

then swap to setup for HDR. you want around 30FL middle of the screen. this equates to about 100 nits

can use this convertor for covering between FL / nits
http://www.unitconversion.org/lumina...onversion.html

is this what you are looking for in relation to the basics ?
OK. I put in the Digital Video Essentials Blu-ray and I put up the Window 100% w/Pluge white pattern? It's just a rectangle in the center of my screen. Is that right, or do I need a white pattern that fills my entire screen?

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post #31452 of 32123 Old 01-02-2019, 03:13 PM
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OK. I put in the Digital Video Essentials Blu-ray and I put up the Window 100% w/Pluge white pattern? It's just a rectangle in the center of my screen. Is that right, or do I need a white pattern that fills my entire screen?
no you need a full white screen covering entire screen there should be one somewhere
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post #31453 of 32123 Old 01-02-2019, 03:39 PM
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no you need a full white screen covering entire screen there should be one somewhere


I did it without a full screen one. Just a small middle screen one from the built in HFCR program with my spyder 5. I asked a while back about full screen vs the small one which is in EVERY pattern program and was told it was fine. Meter was less than a foot away from screen and at a height that would JUST be below creating a shadow. Then I angled the meter up slightly as the nits were read and increased until I got to my 115 nits in HDR high lamp. Seemed to work out ok for me


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post #31454 of 32123 Old 01-02-2019, 03:44 PM
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I did it without a full screen one. Just a small middle screen one from the built in HFCR program with my spyder 5. I asked a while back about full screen vs the small one which is in EVERY pattern program and was told it was fine. Meter was less than a foot away from screen and at a height that would JUST be below creating a shadow. Then I angled the meter up slightly as the nits were read and increased until I got to my 115 nits in HDR high lamp. Seemed to work out ok for me


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hi we are not talking the spyder here just regular light meter, need the projector firing full screen with regular light meter I would NOT have foot away from screen. I would checking light AT the screen

the other good thing with full screen is you can also check light drop off around the screen. will typically find some variation depending on setup and you want around 12FL minimum for SDR for instance across the screen. will mean a tad higher in the middle

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post #31455 of 32123 Old 01-02-2019, 03:56 PM
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hi we are not talking the spyder here just regular light meter, need the projector firing full screen with regular light meter I would NOT have foot away from screen. I would checking light AT the screen



the other good thing with full screen is you can also check light drop off around the screen. will typically find some variation depending on setup and you want around 12FL minimum for SDR for instance across the screen. will mean a tad higher in the middle


Good point. I suppose there are always different processes for different hardware but I do believe you need to watch out for the shadow created anywhere on the screen when using any meter.


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post #31456 of 32123 Old 01-02-2019, 04:22 PM
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no you need a full white screen covering entire screen there should be one somewhere
Don't see that as a choice in the DVE disc. I do have a WOW disc I haven't even opened yet. Guess I'll have to break into it.
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post #31457 of 32123 Old 01-02-2019, 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post
I want that NX7 projector and I can get a screaming good deal on one but I'm a bit nervous JVC will put out another replacement in 12-18 months again. I kinda liked it when you could go 24+ months having a current model projector. Truth is, my projector looks mighty fine paired with the Panasonic UB820. Enough so that I'm finally completely satisfied with my picture quality. Perhaps if I get an offer on my RS400 I'll upgrade.
JVC has put out a new batch of projects on average every 12 months since the RS-1 came out. Typically the large refresh happens every three-ish years....and these new ones like the NX7 are that first year of a (presumably) three year cycle. But year two is often the best long term bet for those of us that like to get multiple years out of a projector, imo.
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post #31458 of 32123 Old 01-02-2019, 04:29 PM
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Don't see that as a choice in the DVE disc. I do have a WOW disc I haven't even opened yet. Guess I'll have to break into it.
if have the wow disc just use that they let you scroll through red blue green white. its the colour purity test. and oh any dead pixels and such will show.. thankfully never seen any

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post #31459 of 32123 Old 01-02-2019, 04:31 PM
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Good point. I suppose there are always different processes for different hardware but I do believe you need to watch out for the shadow created anywhere on the screen when using any meter.


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shadow is irrelevant when using light meter. you just hold it against the screen aiming back to projector, unless stick your arm in front if it or standing in front of it or something will be no shadow

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post #31460 of 32123 Old 01-02-2019, 04:37 PM
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shadow is irrelevant when using light meter. you just hold it against the screen aiming back to projector, unless stick your arm in front if it or standing in front of it or something will be no shadow


You want nits off the screen not the projector for PROPER readings to use in SDR and HDR configurations.


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post #31461 of 32123 Old 01-02-2019, 04:46 PM
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You want nits off the screen not the projector for PROPER readings to use in SDR and HDR configurations.


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no with the light meter you measure the projector output - to get luminance AT the screen. you multiply as I mentioned fc reading by screen gain. that IS how you factor in the screen. that is all that is needed

if you are measuring a foot aways you are not getting the screen luminance AT the screen just an approximation of it. if that is sufficient for your fair enough

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post #31462 of 32123 Old 01-02-2019, 05:08 PM
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no with the light meter you measure the projector output - to get luminance AT the screen. you multiply as I mentioned fc reading by screen gain. that IS how you factor in the screen. that is all that is needed
There’s a “pi” missing.

fL = fC x 3.14 x screen gain.

EDIT: The above was according to www.convert-me.com and a few other websites, but is apparently incorrect.

Last edited by Dominic Chan; 01-03-2019 at 07:19 AM.
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post #31463 of 32123 Old 01-02-2019, 05:19 PM
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There’s a “pi” missing.



fL = fC x 3.14 x screen gain.


So which has proven to be more accurate? Any ideas? Off the screen or the calculation method?


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So which has proven to be more accurate? Any ideas? Off the screen or the calculation method?
Off the screen gives you the actual luminance; light meter facing projector + calculation gives you the predicted luminance, with an assumed value of screen gain. The actual screen gain is almost always lower than the gain rated by the manufacturer.

I use the light meter mostly to track the lamp dimming with age, or to compare different lamps.
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post #31465 of 32123 Old 01-02-2019, 05:26 PM
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Off the screen gives you the actual luminance; light meter facing projector + calculation gives you the predicted luminance, with an assumed value of screen gain. The actual screen gain is almost always lower than the gain rated by the manufacturer.


That’s what I thought. Hence why I am questioning why one would do anything but off the screen. Hardware (meter type)?


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That’s what I thought. Hence why I am questioning why one would do anything but off the screen. Hardware (meter type)?
The light meter is much more convenient. It gives you a direct reading without having to use the computer and software. The light meter can also be less expensive than a colorimeter.
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post #31467 of 32123 Old 01-02-2019, 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by alebonau View Post
no with the light meter you measure the projector output - to get luminance AT the screen. you multiply as I mentioned fc reading by screen gain. that IS how you factor in the screen. that is all that is needed [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif[/IMG]
There’s a “pi” missing.

fL = fC x 3.14 x screen gain.
No FL= fc * screen gain

Do some googling about 5sec worth if you are unclear from our very own avs

https://www.google.com.au/amp/s/www....s.html%3famp=1


If you have a gain of 1 then your FL is you fc reading

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Off the screen gives you the actual luminance; light meter facing projector + calculation gives you the predicted luminance, with an assumed value of screen gain. The actual screen gain is almost always lower than the gain rated by the manufacturer.

I use the light meter mostly to track the lamp dimming with age, or to compare different lamps.
So-Do I need a white full screen pattern to do this, or will the center 100% rectangle from my DVE disc suffice? And what is my target meter reading off the screen when adjusting the manual iris adjustment for blu-ray vs 4k material? That is what I'm doing, correct? Sorry for all the rookie questions.

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Originally Posted by StevenC56 View Post
So-Do I need a white full screen pattern to do this, or will the center 100% rectangle from my DVE disc suffice? And what is my target meter reading off the screen when adjusting the manual iris adjustment for blu-ray vs 4k material? That is what I'm doing, correct? Sorry for all the rookie questions.
please use the WOW disney you mentioned you had and use the full screen. for 4k material you want to get at least 30FL or 100 nits as posted earlier

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post #31470 of 32123 Old 01-02-2019, 06:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenC56 View Post
So-Do I need a white full screen pattern to do this, or will the center 100% rectangle from my DVE disc suffice? And what is my target meter reading off the screen when adjusting the manual iris adjustment for blu-ray vs 4k material? That is what I'm doing, correct? Sorry for all the rookie questions.
Most light meters cannot be used off the screen; they will have to face the projector lens.

Calorimeters can face either the screen or the projector lens; the latter may require a diffuser.

In either case a centre rectangle will do.
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