Official JVC RS600 / RS500 (X950R / X750R - X9000 / X7000) Owners Thread - Page 1050 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31471 of 32133 Old 01-02-2019, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
Most light meters cannot be used off the screen; they will have to face the projector lens.

Calorimeters can face either the screen or the projector lens; the latter may require a diffuser.

In either case a centre rectangle will do.
OK-So I put the light meter in front of the 100% white rectangle on my screen facing the projector. My screen is a Seymour CenterStage XD 105" wide scope retractable. (Actual gain is around .9) I usually use the THX mode on my X750R for Blue-rays and had my Iris on Auto 2 after setting the manual iris to -6. What meter reading should I be shooting for when I adjust the manual Iris in the THX mode, and also on my custom BT.2020 mode I'm setting up for UHD's?

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post #31472 of 32133 Old 01-02-2019, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by StevenC56 View Post
OK-So I put the light meter in front of the 100% white rectangle on my screen facing the projector. My screen is a Seymour CenterStage XD 105" wide scope retractable. (Actual gain is around .9) I usually use the THX mode on my X750R for Blue-rays and had my Iris on Auto 2 after setting the manual iris to -6. What meter reading should I be shooting for when I adjust the manual Iris in the THX mode, and also on my custom BT.2020 mode I'm setting up for UHD's?
For SDR most people aim for 50 nits (around 15 FtL). For HDR the higher the better, but you will need a custom curve that corresponds to the peak luminance you’re getting.
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post #31473 of 32133 Old 01-02-2019, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by StevenC56 View Post
OK-So I put the light meter in front of the 100% white rectangle on my screen facing the projector. My screen is a Seymour CenterStage XD 105" wide scope retractable. (Actual gain is around .9) I usually use the THX mode on my X750R for Blue-rays and had my Iris on Auto 2 after setting the manual iris to -6. What meter reading should I be shooting for when I adjust the manual Iris in the THX mode, and also on my custom BT.2020 mode I'm setting up for UHD's?
I would use a full screen white image.

for SDR (blu-ray DVD and such) you are looking for between 12-16 FL at middle of screen say a nominal 14 FL

for that you are looking at a the meter reading in fc of

14/0.9 = 15.5 fc

using the formula fL = fc x gain

keep in mind with using the full white screen you can check levels around the screen eg at edges and you want something in order of 12-16 fL. minimum of 10 for blu-ray on the screen

for UHDs you want 100 nits or 29 fL so for meter reading you are looking at

29/0.9 = 32 fc

enjoy....

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post #31474 of 32133 Old 01-02-2019, 09:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
For SDR most people aim for 50 nits (around 15 FtL). For HDR the higher the better, but you will need a custom curve that corresponds to the peak luminance you’re getting.
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Originally Posted by alebonau View Post
I would use a full screen white image.

for SDR (blu-ray DVD and such) you are looking for between 12-16 FL at middle of screen say a nominal 14 FL

for that you are looking at a the meter reading in fc of

14/0.9 = 15.5 fc

using the formula fL = fc x gain

keep in mind with using the full white screen you can check levels around the screen eg at edges and you want something in order of 12-16 fL. minimum of 10 for blu-ray on the screen

for UHDs you want 100 nits or 29 fL so for meter reading you are looking at

29/0.9 = 32 fc

enjoy....
With the DVE center rectangle 100% white pattern I'm getting 22-23 Lux with the manual Iris at -8 in my normal "THX" mode, and 35-36 Lux with the manual Iris at -4 in my BT.2020 mode. That seems crazy high so I'll try the full screen white pattern from the WOW disc tomorrow. My projector throw is pretty close at only 13.5' with my 105" wide scope screen, and I'm just under 500 hours on my original bulb.

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post #31475 of 32133 Old 01-02-2019, 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by StevenC56 View Post
With the DVE center rectangle 100% white pattern I'm getting 22-23 Lux with the manual Iris at -8 in my normal "THX" mode, and 35-36 Lux with the manual Iris at -4 in my BT.2020 mode. That seems crazy high so I'll try the full screen white pattern from the WOW disc tomorrow. My projector throw is pretty close at only 13.5' with my 105" wide scope screen, and I'm just under 500 hours on my original bulb.
"lux" or fc ?

it can't be lux. check your meter and its instructions to select fc as measuring value. most have a button to select units and then scale

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post #31476 of 32133 Old 01-02-2019, 10:25 PM
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"lux" or fc ?

it can't be lux. check your meter and its instructions to select fc as measuring value. most have a button to select units and then scale
Sorry-Yes my readings were FC. Lux is FC X 10.76 according to my meter's manual.
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post #31477 of 32133 Old 01-03-2019, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by StevenC56 View Post
With the DVE center rectangle 100% white pattern I'm getting 22-23 Lux with the manual Iris at -8 in my normal "THX" mode, and 35-36 Lux with the manual Iris at -4 in my BT.2020 mode. That seems crazy high so I'll try the full screen white pattern from the WOW disc tomorrow. My projector throw is pretty close at only 13.5' with my 105" wide scope screen, and I'm just under 500 hours on my original bulb.
So with the full screen (16:9) white pattern from the Disney "Wow" disc I'm getting exactly the same FC readings. I'm not sure what that means for sure, but I think with my screen gain of .9 it comes out to 20FL on my THX mode I use for Blue-rays, and 32FL on my BT.2020 mode I use for 4K material? Wish I knew more about this.

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post #31478 of 32133 Old 01-03-2019, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by StevenC56 View Post
So with the full screen (16:9) white pattern from the Disney "Wow" disc I'm getting exactly the same FC readings. I'm not sure what that means for sure, but I think with my screen gain of .9 it comes out to 20FL on my THX mode I use for Blue-rays, and 32FL on my BT.2020 mode I use for 4K material? Wish I knew more about this.
It means for blu-ray you need to crank your iris down so you end up in ball park of 12-16FL 14FL at middle and down to 12 at edges no less than 10

for HDR I would leave the iris exactly as it is 32FL is pretty good and will give an appreciation of HDR

on blu-ray once you drop the iris, I would re adjust brightness and contrast, can use the contrast / brightness white clipping, black clipping charts on wow disney if you like. colour just dial in by eye can use the reference images on wow, this is just basics if want more get a professional calibration done

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post #31479 of 32133 Old 01-08-2019, 08:54 PM
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Hi guys,
Just got HDFury Linker. Is there a post/tutorial on how to hook it up to be used with JVC? I have RS500. It will be in chain with UB900 to projector. I am splitting the audio out of the Player to avr so Linker will completely be used to handle Video part only.

I purchased it because I read that it enables the Iris on JVC. Would be great if there is a post/steps on how to set it up.
Thanks.
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post #31480 of 32133 Old 01-09-2019, 02:56 AM
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Originally Posted by harrisu View Post
Hi guys,
Just got HDFury Linker. Is there a post/tutorial on how to hook it up to be used with JVC? I have RS500. It will be in chain with UB900 to projector. I am splitting the audio out of the Player to avr so Linker will completely be used to handle Video part only.

I purchased it because I read that it enables the Iris on JVC. Would be great if there is a post/steps on how to set it up.
Thanks.
I've done this a while ago. As far as I recall, all you need to do is to check the "Strip metadata" box in the GUI and leave everything else as passthrough.
But if you can do the same in the player, I'm not sure if you even need the Linker.
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post #31481 of 32133 Old 01-09-2019, 09:02 AM
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I've done this a while ago. As far as I recall, all you need to do is to check the "Strip metadata" box in the GUI and leave everything else as passthrough.
But if you can do the same in the player, I'm not sure if you even need the Linker.
I hooked it up and loaded the GUI. Everything was very straight forward. I had to check the "No HDR" option off and also select the right Edit option. The image came and Iris was also working fine. With Iris working, Black levels look so nice. I have tried the feature from panny to strip HDR before but wasn't happy with results. It felt like it wasn't doing the right thing. With Linker, Image looks much better.
If I'm not wrong, @Manni01 has provided custom HDR curve. Can that curve be loaded in Linker or it has to be done on projector? I have a custom curve that Chad uploaded a year ago when he calibrated my projector. Looks great but I wonder what Manni curve would look like.
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post #31482 of 32133 Old 01-09-2019, 09:30 AM
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All due respect to Manni, but your Chad curve is 99% likely to be better. He measures in the room, with your actual gear and setup, and creates a curve perfect for your situation. (They both use similar tools, similar process, and similar targets.)

Manni's curves are a generic "guess" that work fine if your light output matches what he was designing for. But almost by definition that means they won't match. Do you know your peak output? and can you adjust that to match one of his? If so, then they will be about the same as what Chad did. Why go to all that work to achieve at best the same thing?
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post #31483 of 32133 Old 01-10-2019, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by harrisu View Post
Hi guys,
Just got HDFury Linker. Is there a post/tutorial on how to hook it up to be used with JVC? I have RS500. It will be in chain with UB900 to projector. I am splitting the audio out of the Player to avr so Linker will completely be used to handle Video part only.

I purchased it because I read that it enables the Iris on JVC. Would be great if there is a post/steps on how to set it up.
Thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mojito View Post
I've done this a while ago. As far as I recall, all you need to do is to check the "Strip metadata" box in the GUI and leave everything else as passthrough.
But if you can do the same in the player, I'm not sure if you even need the Linker.
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I hooked it up and loaded the GUI. Everything was very straight forward. I had to check the "No HDR" option off and also select the right Edit option. The image came and Iris was also working fine. With Iris working, Black levels look so nice. I have tried the feature from panny to strip HDR before but wasn't happy with results. It felt like it wasn't doing the right thing. With Linker, Image looks much better.
If I'm not wrong, Manni01has provided custom HDR curve. Can that curve be loaded in Linker or it has to be done on projector? I have a custom curve that Chad uploaded a year ago when he calibrated my projector. Looks great but I wonder what Manni curve would look like.
If you've selected Strip Metadata on the HD Fury doesn't that specifically trick the UB900 into sending SDR2020? I had the Vertex and did this. With the UB900 sending SDR2020, you want the projector on Gamma 2.4, not a HDR curve (since the projector is technically receiving a SDR signal).

This advice may be a bit off since the Vertex was basically a Linker + Integral and I forget which does what. I ended up selling the Vertex & UB900 and went to a UB820 and am much more pleased.
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post #31484 of 32133 Old 01-10-2019, 07:54 PM
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That's a different setting, IIRC. Strip Metadata on the FURY just does what the name implies (removes the HDR flag from the content stream but leave the HDR signal in tact, allowing his custom Chad curve to be used but also allowing the dynamic iris to work, and also avoiding the auto switching to Gamma D).

(There was a similarly named 'feature' on the old Oppo's that did what you describe, sending SDR2020, which was very confusingly -- some say incorrectly -- called 'strip metadata' too, IIRC.)
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post #31485 of 32133 Old 01-11-2019, 12:23 AM
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Originally Posted by nathan_h View Post
That's a different setting, IIRC. Strip Metadata on the FURY just does what the name implies (removes the HDR flag from the content stream but leave the HDR signal in tact, allowing his custom Chad curve to be used but also allowing the dynamic iris to work, and also avoiding the auto switching to Gamma D).

(There was a similarly named 'feature' on the old Oppo's that did what you describe, sending SDR2020, which was very confusingly -- some say incorrectly -- called 'strip metadata' too, IIRC.)
Yes, different devices - different possibilities.
Linker - removes HDR flag and fools the projector that it is an SDR signal, making it possible to use DI and avoid autoswitch to Gamma D.
Vertex - in addition allows automatic selection of appropriate picture mode depending on the incoming signal.
I forgot what Integral does in addition to Linker though. Something to do with Panasonic tone mapping.

Is far as Oppo is concerned, I'm not sure why you are referring to them as "old", coz this feature is in the 203/205 models. In the most recent fw of the Oppo's there are separate "Strip metadata" and "Convert to SDR" options. And IIRC, the Strip metadata option appeared in the recent fw. Since I already had my Linker setup I didn't check what that option actually does, but according to the description, it does the same thing as the Linker. So, with the Oppo's tone mapping and strip metadata settings one could probably get by without the linker or vertex.
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post #31486 of 32133 Old 01-11-2019, 08:24 AM
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I’ll leave it to the oppo thread for details. (For example, on the oppo though there is still an option called ‘strip metadata’ it has been deprecated and the sdr2020 choice with its variable output is preferred.)

Back on topic:

The OP doesn’t want to convert to SDR. He wants to use HDR.

Both of the HDFury devices can make that easier and avoid disabling the dynamic iris.

The Vertex can also switch things on the projector automatically. He doesn’t have the Vertex. That’s fine.

He can get all the same viewing experience with the device he has, but has to switch gamma/color space on the projector manually — just like he has been doing for the past year since Chad set up his unique custom curve in his house on his projector.
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post #31487 of 32133 Old 01-11-2019, 08:55 AM
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Looks great but I wonder what Manni curve would look like.
You can only load up to 3 custom curves in the projector. If there are any unused slots you can try any curve you like, to satisfy your curiosity. Back up Chad B’s curves first, just in case.
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post #31488 of 32133 Old 01-12-2019, 07:49 AM
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New in V3.0[*]I’m providing three new sets of completely redesigned curves. All these curves are significantly brighter, especially in the low end, and they handle highlights differently. You now get: 1 set for Dolby Cinema Emulation (107nits), which should be good for users with a peakY of 95-115nits. One set for Brightness Challenged Users (85nits), which should be good for users with a PeakY of 75-95nits. And one set for Enhanced Cinematic Experience (120nits), which should be good for users with a PeakY of 110-130nits. Note: These DCE, BCU and ECE sets are NOT custom curves. Custom curves are designed by a competent calibrator and adjusted to your environment, set-up and personal taste as there is no standard for HDR10 for projectors. However, these generic, low-res curves (11 control points instead of 256) should cover the needs of a wide range of users and give decent results for the most common set-ups. The low-res aspect doesn’t mean that the picture resolution is lower, only that the control points in the gamma curve are not as precise. There is little to no difference visually between a hi-res and a lo-res curve, provided the targets are right for your environment. If you want better quality or true custom curves, please hire a competent calibrator (or learn to do it yourself using the available tools and guides) before ruling out custom curves. You haven’t tried custom curves unless you’ve adjusted your PeakY precisely to the target of one of the included sets. All the curves use a bbi of 0 and a bbo of 0.004.

I hope some of you will find this useful.
Hi Manni, I just received my Integral 2 and have it set up. When I match PeakY to your curves, are the curves designed to be run in low or high lamp mode? For example, if I get peakY of 120nits low lamp, assuming the ECE curve will be good run in low lamp?

Thanks,
David

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post #31489 of 32133 Old 01-12-2019, 11:59 AM
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I actually did use the 100%white from Ryan m patterns using ATV home sharing. Loaded the clip from the ATV from my library so thinking that worked just fine. Now just need to covert that to nits as it seems there are varying calculations lol.


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I'm not finding a 100% white clip in the Ryan M library? Could it be named differently?
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post #31490 of 32133 Old 01-12-2019, 01:14 PM
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I'm not finding a 100% white clip in the Ryan M library? Could it be named differently?


Honestly I forget lol. Sorry but there was a small square one with 100% white and I remember it took me hours to find it in the folder structure. Anyone else?


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post #31491 of 32133 Old 01-12-2019, 01:30 PM
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Honestly I forget lol. Sorry but there was a small square one with 100% white and I remember it took me hours to find it in the folder structure. Anyone else?


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I don't have them, but the 100% white pattern should be part of every greyscale pattern.
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post #31492 of 32133 Old 01-12-2019, 02:20 PM
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I'm not finding a 100% white clip in the Ryan M library? Could it be named differently?
Hi, take a look at this path, this will work.

RM_UHD_HDR10_Test_Pattern_Suite\01. TS Files\06. Miscellaneous Patterns\08. Grayscale Sweeps\09. 40% Window Patterns\11. 40%_Window_100_C940_HDR10.ts
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post #31493 of 32133 Old 01-13-2019, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by nathan_h View Post
That's a different setting, IIRC. Strip Metadata on the FURY just does what the name implies (removes the HDR flag from the content stream but leave the HDR signal in tact, allowing his custom Chad curve to be used but also allowing the dynamic iris to work, and also avoiding the auto switching to Gamma D).

(There was a similarly named 'feature' on the old Oppo's that did what you describe, sending SDR2020, which was very confusingly -- some say incorrectly -- called 'strip metadata' too, IIRC.)
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Originally Posted by nathan_h View Post
I’ll leave it to the oppo thread for details. (For example, on the oppo though there is still an option called ‘strip metadata’ it has been deprecated and the sdr2020 choice with its variable output is preferred.)

Back on topic:

The OP doesn’t want to convert to SDR. He wants to use HDR.

Both of the HDFury devices can make that easier and avoid disabling the dynamic iris.

The Vertex can also switch things on the projector automatically. He doesn’t have the Vertex. That’s fine.

He can get all the same viewing experience with the device he has, but has to switch gamma/color space on the projector manually — just like he has been doing for the past year since Chad set up his unique custom curve in his house on his projector.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
You can only load up to 3 custom curves in the projector. If there are any unused slots you can try any curve you like, to satisfy your curiosity. Back up Chad B’s curves first, just in case.
nathan_h: you are right on the money here. After I unchecked the HR flag, Iris started working and I could clearly tell that HDR is still working. So that did he job. Also thx for your comments on Chad Custom curve. I didn't know that he customized it for my room. I thought that he had a predefined custom curve that he was uploading in the projector. Thx for clarification.

Dominic Chan: I was thinking if its possible to upload on Linker. Anyway, as Nathan mentioned that the custom curve that Chad uploaded on my projector would work better since its customized to my room environment (Black Velvet all around).
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post #31494 of 32133 Old 01-17-2019, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by nathan_h View Post
I’ll leave it to the oppo thread for details. (For example, on the oppo though there is still an option called ‘strip metadata’ it has been deprecated and the sdr2020 choice with its variable output is preferred.)

Back on topic:

The OP doesn’t want to convert to SDR. He wants to use HDR.

Both of the HDFury devices can make that easier and avoid disabling the dynamic iris.

The Vertex can also switch things on the projector automatically. He doesn’t have the Vertex. That’s fine.

He can get all the same viewing experience with the device he has, but has to switch gamma/color space on the projector manually — just like he has been doing for the past year since Chad set up his unique custom curve in his house on his projector.
This is what I'm using in Linker. Also, please note that I'm using the same config for 1080P as well. Basically, leave Linker in chain with this config.
Little concerned about setting HTCP OUTPUT to 2.2 even for 1080P bluray?
Looks good?




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post #31495 of 32133 Old 01-17-2019, 02:41 PM
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Hello All,
?

I have had my RS-5000 for about two years.The bulb is almost at 3000 hrs and is still going strong. When viewing SDR it’s reading 18FL at -13 on the iris and 107nits for HDR -5 on iris. I am using the HD Furry Vertex for Auto HDR and SDR switching. And I am also using Manni’s 1100,2200 and 4000 curves for HDR.

Is there any HDR advantages using the new Panasonic UB-9000 over the Oppo 205?

Home Theater: Stewart -100” 4 Way Sreenwall Electric Masking, JVC-DLA-NX9 Tivo Vox, Oppo-UDP-205, Roku 4K Ultra, Apple TV 4K, Panasonic UB9000 , Marantz AV8802A-7.1 SSP, Ayre K5 MP Stereo Pre Amp, Clearaudio Concept Turntable, Schitt Audio Phono Pre Amp, Rotel RB-1070, Rotel RMB-1095, Rotel RB-933, Ayre-V5xe,Vandersteen-3A Signature-Front LR, Vandersteen-VCC-5-Center, Vandersteen-VSM-Surrounds and Atmos, Dual SVS PB16 Ultras Subwoofers.
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post #31496 of 32133 Old 01-18-2019, 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by DVD MAN View Post
Hello All,
?

I have had my RS-5000 for about two years.The bulb is almost at 3000 hrs and is still going strong. When viewing SDR it’s reading 18FL at -13 on the iris and 107nits for HDR -5 on iris. I am using the HD Furry Vertex for Auto HDR and SDR switching. And I am also using Manni’s 1100,2200 and 4000 curves for HDR.

Is there any HDR advantages using the new Panasonic UB-9000 over the Oppo 205?
Honestly the 205 is a great player and has some features the 9000 doesn’t. The 9000 is probably better at 4k UHD playback but you have automated a lot of what the 9000 does already.
I’d put that money either toward a new bulb or for a future projector upgrade.
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post #31497 of 32133 Old 01-18-2019, 12:04 PM
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Anyone thinking about upgrading to one of the new range? The N7 is tempting me.

Yet, I’m also still happy with what I’ve got.....
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Display : JVC X7000 Projector | SE 103" Enlightor 4k | LG 65B6 OLED |
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post #31498 of 32133 Old 01-18-2019, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by AidenL View Post
Anyone thinking about upgrading to one of the new range? The N7 is tempting me.

Yet, I’m also still happy with what I’ve got.....
I’m pleased with my RS500 in all respects except for input lag because I game (PS4) on it. Thus, I’m considering a N7. I very recently installed a 120” SI Black Diamond 1.4 as a replacement for a cheap, white screen and the RS500 is that much better as a result.

Last edited by Karl Maga; 01-18-2019 at 09:10 PM.
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post #31499 of 32133 Old 01-20-2019, 03:25 PM
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hi
I've RS500 and my screen is white matte 135 inch what i remember from last year they said if your screen is bigger than 100 inch forget the HDR so is it still the same thing?
and which version is the last update on it?

thanks a lot.
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post #31500 of 32133 Old 01-20-2019, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by waleed View Post
hi
I've RS500 and my screen is white matte 135 inch what i remember from last year they said if your screen is bigger than 100 inch forget the HDR so is it still the same thing?
and which version is the last update on it?

thanks a lot.
I’ve got a 152” AT ST130 with a custom calibration by Chad and my HDR is fantastic. I’m at 60 nits which is right on the edge but still have a great HDR picture. Only crappy titles that were mastered poorly at low nit levels struggle but nothing a couple clicks on the dynamic range slider can’t fix on the ub900

Cheers,
Ray
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