Official JVC RS600 / RS500 (X950R / X750R - X9000 / X7000) Owners Thread - Page 1058 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31711 of 31985 Old 03-28-2019, 05:46 AM
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Originally Posted by 996911 View Post
The only time the projector switches to D is when it initially receives the HDR tag. From that point forward it will not change back. If you pause your movie and it goes back out to the main menu it might happen again but it won't during movie playback. While it would be nice if the projector would not switch and just allow the user to pick a setting and it stay, it's just the way this projector operates and it's not a big deal at all. I switch from D to my custom curve and then I'm done for the duration of my movie. And as far as HDR not being ready for projectors? Please. I have one of the most challenging setups with a 152" ST130 with microperf and Chad has dialed in HDR amazingly. Would I like a higher nit level? Sure. But I have a level that still has HDR look amazing and would NEVER watch HD blu-ray again if a title is available in 4k HDR. FYI...it (HDR) was unwatchable prior to Chad's calibration. He is worth every penny! To watch SDR2020 when you can have access to a calibrator with experience getting the most out of the RS600 to display HDR properly like Chad (and he is the best) is IMHO a complete waste of owning this projector.

One note. I was initially frustrated with being constantly worried about D kicking on while watching a movie so I would continually pull up the projector menu during a movie to make sure my custom curve is selected and not D. Chad fixed that issue by "calibrating" D with an incredible amount of green push so if it kicks to D then I will absolutely know. I watch movies now with complete relaxation and don't even think about the stupid D kicking on while watching GLORIOUS HDR.
Hi Ray,

Yes that has been the case with Gamma D for me. I switch it over once and I am done for the rest of the movie with 4K discs/or any other 4K media. Now with the Apple TV 4K. The movies (seems to be the ones with DV like was noted already) keep switching it back to D everything 2-5 mins during playback. I can tell right away when it goes to D. I had now changed it to SDR 4K 24hz (I have an anamorphic lens and the RS600 can not stretch 60fps 4K). It worked very nice last night. I will keep playing around with it. I have 30 days to test it and still able to return it to BB. I am leaning toward keeping it so far

Dreamliner -- I will look into the UB820 Thanks for the info

Pip -- The 4k disc rarely if ever have trailers or previews.

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post #31712 of 31985 Old 03-28-2019, 05:51 AM
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Originally Posted by SteveFred View Post
Hi Ray,

Yes that has been the case with Gamma D for me. I switch it over once and I am done for the rest of the movie with 4K discs/or any other 4K media. Now with the Apple TV 4K. The movies (seems to be the ones with DV like was noted already) keep switching it back to D everything 2-5 mins during playback. I can tell right away when it goes to D. I had now changed it to SDR 4K 24hz (I have an anamorphic lens and the RS600 can not stretch 60fps 4K). It worked very nice last night. I will keep playing around with it. I have 30 days to test it and still able to return it to BB. I am leaning toward keeping it so far

Dreamliner -- I will look into the UB820 Thanks for the info

Pip -- The 4k disc rarely if ever have trailers or previews.
Ah, ok. Yeah, that would drive me absolutely nuts if it was continually doing it on ATV. I have the new ATV box in my theater as well but I have not watched any 4K movies from the iTunes store and if I stream HDR it's typically through the blu-ray player on Netflix and Amazon Prime apps. I am 100% exclusively watching 4K HDR through physical media. The ATV is really just to watch the large catalog of movies (blu-ray HD) on my home server that I ripped over the last few years. And that (watching ATV server movies) is rare as well.

Cheers,
Ray
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post #31713 of 31985 Old 03-28-2019, 06:01 AM
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Originally Posted by 996911 View Post
Ah, ok. Yeah, that would drive me absolutely nuts if it was continually doing it on ATV. I have the new ATV box in my theater as well but I have not watched any 4K movies from the iTunes store and if I stream HDR it's typically through the blu-ray player on Netflix and Amazon Prime apps. I am 100% exclusively watching 4K HDR through physical media. The ATV is really just to watch the large catalog of movies (blu-ray HD) on my home server that I ripped over the last few years. And that (watching ATV server movies) is rare as well.
I have also until yesterday, been 100% physical media with 4K. I am sure I will still buy 90% 4k discs even if I keep the Apple box. I just wanted an avenue to get some of the lesser wanted titles for a lot less(usually I wait until they go on sale $15 an under), but I notice some very recent 4K titles are already at $9.99 on iTunes and someone said they had a $4.99 sale just recently. Plus with being able to go down to 24fps with the Apple box now, it will work with my A lens.

I want the best PQ/Audio possible and I know all to well the disc is King. But with some lesser titles/comedy's/etc, I will "probably" be ok with streaming, as long as it sounds very good and looks near to the disc. The jury is still out on that, so we will see haha
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post #31714 of 31985 Old 03-28-2019, 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by drapp1952 View Post
In a word: probably. With a 100" diagonal screen a sharpness increase might be subtle unless you sit, say, less than 8 feet away from the screen. I've got a 135" diagonal screen and sit 14 ft away and with 4K UHD BDs there's a noticeable improvement in sharpness and color from my RS600. While my Lumagen Radiance as a processor isn't in the video chain any more because it does not do 4K, the sacrifice is worth the improvement in PQ with the 820 as source. The scaling to 4K with regular BDs is excellent and in my opinion superior to the RS600s e-shift alone. A HD Fury Integral or Linker is not needed, etc. If you haven't seen it already I suggest you see Kris Deering's review of the UB820 for a lot more information
Thanks very much for that info. Of course, I have the HD Fury device, to go along with Chad's efforts. One less device in the signal path is a good thing. You have convinced me. Now for them to go to the on-line Discounters. Hopefully not too long as the 9000 is out. I haven't understood why the distribution of the 820 has been so limited.

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post #31715 of 31985 Old 03-28-2019, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post
The Panasonic UB820 is the answer for physical 4K media. With the built-in SDR2020 Tone Mapping, 4K discs behave exactly like HD discs and you never have to deal with Gamma D. The UB820 will make you think you bought a new projector. For the UB820, all you'll need to do is turn on SDR2020 in the UB820 settings. This change means the projector will not see a "HDR" signal so it will not switch to Gamma D. You will need to set projector to use the BT2020 Color Profile (just like 4K HDR) and Gamma 2.4 (instead of Gamma D or Custom Gamma). I set my user modes up for quick switching: User1-HD, User2-4K, User3-3D. The UB820 is still interpreting the HDR data off the disc and sending a "full range" signal to the projector so you are not leaving any color or brightness 'on the table'. You get beautiful high resolution and wide color gamut images without the hassle.

The UB820 is worth every single penny and your only regret will be waiting this long to get it.

I also made a JVC 4K QuickStart Guide that has some tips you might find useful.


On a side note, I need to look into how this works. I have tons of HD & 4K Blu-rays but I sold off almost all of my digital copies...
So, Chad gave me a setting for 2K material and a setting for 4K material (one for hi and one for low lamp) which used his custom curve for gamma (using the Fury HDR trigger blocker). Once I've put the 820 in the loop, set it to SDR 2020 and set the luminance to low, which setting do I use on the RS600 and is it the same for 2K and 4K material? In reading the above, it seems like I should use the 2K setting, which has the 2.4 gamma setting and not Chad's custom 4K gamma for all material.

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post #31716 of 31985 Old 03-28-2019, 07:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted99 View Post
So, Chad gave me a setting for 2K material and a setting for 4K material (one for hi and one for low lamp) which used his custom curve for gamma (using the Fury HDR trigger blocker). Once I've put the 820 in the loop, set it to SDR 2020 and set the luminance to low, which setting do I use on the RS600 and is it the same for 2K and 4K material? In reading the above, it seems like I should use the 2K setting, which has the 2.4 gamma setting and not Chad's custom 4K gamma for all material.
The 2 Picture modes are for SDR and HDR respectively, not 2k or 4k per se. To get the best HDR using the UB820 SDR2020, you need to create another user Picture Mode, with settings similar to the HDR Picture Mode, but with the gamma changed to 2.4 instead of Imported. That will not affect the existing ones.
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post #31717 of 31985 Old 03-28-2019, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Ted99 View Post
So, Chad gave me a setting for 2K material and a setting for 4K material (one for hi and one for low lamp) which used his custom curve for gamma (using the Fury HDR trigger blocker). Once I've put the 820 in the loop, set it to SDR 2020 and set the luminance to low, which setting do I use on the RS600 and is it the same for 2K and 4K material? In reading the above, it seems like I should use the 2K setting, which has the 2.4 gamma setting and not Chad's custom 4K gamma for all material.
I agree with Dominic. For best results, SDR2020 is your 4K user mode but the only difference would be swapping out Custom Gamma for Gamma 2.4.

Specifically because you've been calibrated by Chad, I am very curious on your thoughts regarding SDR2020 once you get the UB820 and have the chance to compare. Please let us know what you think.
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post #31718 of 31985 Old 03-28-2019, 08:22 PM
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I have a light colored room, white ceiling, light rug and white plantation shutters. I have pretty good light control at night (just room reflections). I bought a SeymourAV Matinee Black Screen. Now, I know what I have been missing with this projector. Everyone with bat caves (I do not have a space for a bat cave), I am jealous. The dynamic range and pure black level with the RS500/Matinee Black is awesome. There are pros and cons with an ALR screen and the 1.4 gain. On most UHD disks, RS500, panasonic UB820 in SDR/2020 2.4 Gamma, and Matinee Black 1.4 Screen, the color saturation and dynamic range looks very similar to my OLED (in my light colored room!). It is not perfect as you can get some texture (in some bright scene sparkle - I had some texture in my previous Elite screen) but the overall picture is quite impressive and engaging. I am still evaluating if anyone is interested. Finally, I get to see some real native contrast ratio that the JVC is famous for!
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post #31719 of 31985 Old 03-28-2019, 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post
I agree with Dominic. For best results, SDR2020 is your 4K user mode but the only difference would be swapping out Custom Gamma for Gamma 2.4.

Specifically because you've been calibrated by Chad, I am very curious on your thoughts regarding SDR2020 once you get the UB820 and have the chance to compare. Please let us know what you think.
Interesting. Now I want to run back and turn it all back on now to try this.

I just got my 9000 yesterday and plugged in my old Chad B settings to make a SDR2020 mode, but I didn't change the Gamma off of his custom. (and thought it was looking great) Guess I need to go see if 2.4 gives me any improvement.

Also liked the real HDR Low Luminance projector mode, but after seeing the SDR2020, I don't think it's really a contest anymore with what I prefer to see. (also nice that I don't have to deal with the ever changing Gamma D again too)
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post #31720 of 31985 Old 03-29-2019, 10:31 AM
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The Panasonic UB820 is the answer for physical 4K media. ...without the hassle. :
Hi,
I’m having a lot of problems with the player, or at least, with testing tone mapping of the player. Can you please take a look at the few posts following this and see if you have any suggestions? Thanks.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/149-b...l#post57823264
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post #31721 of 31985 Old 03-29-2019, 05:14 PM
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I -think- it's good to go with HDR, no?



https://www3.jvckenwood.com/english/...rs400_uhd.html
Just to chime in. Without a lot of wrestling with it, it is not good to go. If you don't mind wrestling and it saves you more than $1000, then it might be worth it. (I have an RS500 that is dialed in, but were I buying today, I would not go back that far in the lineup.)

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Hi everyone,


I have had the the RS600 since it came out 3 years ago. I just bought an Apple TV 4K.


Is there anyway to lock the gamma so it does not keep going back to Gamma D without buying more equipment(Hd fury/ vertex, etc)


If not, the Apple TV might be going back to Bestbuy



Thanks


Steve
Did you like the SDR4k output of the ATV once you tried it? Without using custom curves, I think that's the best choice.


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Interesting. Now I want to run back and turn it all back on now to try this.

I just got my 9000 yesterday and plugged in my old Chad B settings to make a SDR2020 mode, but I didn't change the Gamma off of his custom. (and thought it was looking great) Guess I need to go see if 2.4 gives me any improvement.

Also liked the real HDR Low Luminance projector mode, but after seeing the SDR2020, I don't think it's really a contest anymore with what I prefer to see. (also nice that I don't have to deal with the ever changing Gamma D again too)
If the Panasonic had iTunes, I'd be a convert, but most of what I watch is from iTunes these days.
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post #31722 of 31985 Old 03-29-2019, 05:17 PM
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Just to chime in. Without a lot of wrestling with it, it is not good to go. If you don't mind wrestling and it saves you more than $1000, then it might be worth it. (I have an RS500 that is dialed in, but were I buying today, I would not go back that far in the lineup.).

Yeah, seems that staying away from PJ nonsense has been good for sanity.


Fact that N7 is "low end", or at least the most commensurate to the levels I'm getting with my OLED, is both discomfiting and where I started when I decided, foolishly, to want something more than I've got that still did what I wanted it to.

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[QUOTE=nathan_h;57825714]Just to chime in. Without a lot of wrestling with it, it is not good to go. If you don't mind wrestling and it saves you more than $1000, then it might be worth it. (I have an RS500 that is dialed in, but were I buying today, I would not go back that far in the lineup.)



Did you like the SDR4k output of the ATV once you tried it? Without using custom curves, I think that's the best choice.



Yes once I switched it to SDR 4K 24hz. It works very well. I hope they can make a 3000+ lumen 4K laser projector someday near the 10K mark. That is when I will probably give up my RS600
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post #31724 of 31985 Old 03-30-2019, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by sharkshark View Post
Yeah, seems that staying away from PJ nonsense has been good for sanity.


Fact that N7 is "low end", or at least the most commensurate to the levels I'm getting with my OLED, is both discomfiting and where I started when I decided, foolishly, to want something more than I've got that still did what I wanted it to.
I'm not very familiar with all the details of the current generation but was under the impression that the N7 was middle of the pack - 4k native, and able to do wide color. I have read that people who want more light output often don't run it in the wide color mode, and that in that case, the N5 makes more sense in terms of bang for buck. But this is the wrong thread for that discussion, I suspect.

In any event, the main reason to choose an RS500 versus a 520 or 540 would be if it is so much cheaper that you either live with SDR (not dire, SDR can be awesome, and things like the Panasonic player can really do a great job) or get into tweak mode (can work great, but costs time, brain cells, and or money to hire a pro).

I suspect most people would be better served by the x20 or x40 models if starting from scratch, these days.
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post #31725 of 31985 Old 04-01-2019, 08:33 PM
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If the client can only choose one, get the UB9000. The JVC NX7 and NX9 out of the box on a pure-white screen is rather accurate. I have never calibrated the NX5 so I can’t say.
Chad B had felt different as I has asked him to, to each his own though....

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I have not purchased the 820, yet, waiting for it to appear on the discounter's order sheets. What setting should I use for my Chad-calibrated RS 600? Will there be a visible improvement?
Panasonic players are a niotch just like the Oppo where, there is nothing else like it, may not even happen at clearance time....
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post #31726 of 31985 Old 04-01-2019, 08:53 PM
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He can have his opinion all he wants but out of the box, all the NX7 and NX9 I have calibrated have dE of less than 5. Measurements don’t lie.

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post #31727 of 31985 Old 04-02-2019, 11:41 AM
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Pardon my ignorance, but can you explain what a 'dE of less than 5' means?

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post #31728 of 31985 Old 04-02-2019, 01:27 PM
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dE (delta Error) is essentially a measured perception error between ideal and what the display is actually showing in screen (just to to simply things).

An error difference/delta error of 3 or less is considered to be imperceptible to the human eye. Between 3-10 is considered as acceptable depending who you ask. But usually between 3-5 is considered to be very good.

Some displays can be calibrated even to dE of less than 1 which is amazing.

However, as we are talking about the NX7 and NX9 out of the box (shooting to unity gain pure white screen in medium zoom range at high lamp power) to be less than 5, they are pretty good. Not that you don’t need calibrating, but you can get away by postponing the calibration and use the money to get the UB9000 instead. Especially the error is pushing more to blue.

Just like doctors looking at a chart, in the end it’s about the interpretation. But, nothing on the chart is telling me that the calibration is need to be done before buying a UB9000 if the budget is not there.
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post #31729 of 31985 Old 04-02-2019, 01:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Susilo View Post
dE (delta Error) is essentially a measured perception error between ideal and what the display is actually showing in screen (just to to simply things).

An error difference/delta error of 3 or less is considered to be imperceptible to the human eye. Between 3-10 is considered as acceptable depending who you ask. But usually between 3-5 is considered to be very good.

Some displays can be calibrated even to dE of less than 1 which is amazing.

However, as we are talking about the NX7 and NX9 out of the box (shooting to unity gain pure white screen in medium zoom range at high lamp power) to be less than 5, they are pretty good. Not that you don’t need calibrating, but you can get away by postponing the calibration and use the money to get the UB9000 instead. Especially the error is pushing more to blue.

Just like doctors looking at a chart, in the end it’s about the interpretation. But, nothing on the chart is telling me that the calibration is need to be done before buying a UB9000 if the budget is not there.
Thanks alot for the great description. I guess my purchasing a UB9000 before going for a calibration of my NX7 may have been a good decision.

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post #31730 of 31985 Old 04-02-2019, 03:14 PM
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Any of you guys struggle with lip-sync? I’ve got a UB820, Nvidia SHIELD and Denon 6300. Sometimes it’s fine, other times it seems way off, distractingly so. Thoughts?
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post #31731 of 31985 Old 04-02-2019, 04:11 PM
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Do you have everything goes through a receiver? If yes then turn on Auto Sync feature on the receiver.

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post #31732 of 31985 Old 04-02-2019, 05:21 PM
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post #31733 of 31985 Old 04-02-2019, 05:35 PM
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post #31734 of 31985 Old 04-03-2019, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post
Auto Lip Sync is already on. I’m just wondering if it’s a projector processing delay issue...

Auto Lip Sync is not useful here - it is a Denon feature that supposedly reads the processing time of connected TV monitors from the EDID if they support it and the Denon will then compensate according to the info provided by the monitor.


As far as I know the JVCs do not provide this info since there is no processing delay.


The fact it is sporadic is telling - do you get the problem with both the 820 and the Shield or just the Shield?

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post #31735 of 31985 Old 04-03-2019, 10:35 AM
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For those of you fortunate enough to be calibrated by Chad B (like me) and have a Panny 820/420/9000, do you prefer to use Chad's HDR settings with the HDR2020 mode in your player, or do you prefer the SDR2020 in the player with an SDR2020 user setting in your projector as Kris Deering and others recommend for projectors?
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post #31736 of 31985 Old 04-03-2019, 04:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erod View Post
For those of you fortunate enough to be calibrated by Chad B (like me) and have a Panny 820/420/9000, do you prefer to use Chad's HDR settings with the HDR2020 mode in your player, or do you prefer the SDR2020 in the player with an SDR2020 user setting in your projector as Kris Deering and others recommend for projectors?
What are your thoughts?

I am also curious to what others will say but am a bit concerned they might be hesitant to be honest. To them I say this: Keep in mind, even if you like SDR2020 better, you are still taking advantage of the color and gamma calibration that was done and are simply choosing the tone mapping of the UB820 over the HDR Gamma curve loaded into your projector, so it is okay to be honest.
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post #31737 of 31985 Old 04-03-2019, 07:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erod View Post
For those of you fortunate enough to be calibrated by Chad B (like me) and have a Panny 820/420/9000, do you prefer to use Chad's HDR settings with the HDR2020 mode in your player, or do you prefer the SDR2020 in the player with an SDR2020 user setting in your projector as Kris Deering and others recommend for projectors?
I have a RS600 calibrated,I like the HDR2020 mode in my 820 better than the SDR2020 without any doubt. It took a Wknd to get the settings in the 820 just right for me but it was definitely worth it. This is in a Black Velvet treated theater room. If anyone is interested PM me for the settings I'm using in the 820 and than you can adjust to taste. My settings are probably not totally accurate to directors intent but my picture looks great to me and that's a I'm really concerned about,my room my choices.

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post #31738 of 31985 Old 04-03-2019, 07:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erod View Post
For those of you fortunate enough to be calibrated by Chad B (like me) and have a Panny 820/420/9000, do you prefer to use Chad's HDR settings with the HDR2020 mode in your player, or do you prefer the SDR2020 in the player with an SDR2020 user setting in your projector as Kris Deering and others recommend for projectors?
What are your thoughts?

I am also curious to what others will say but am a bit concerned they might be hesitant to be honest. To them I say this: Keep in mind, even if you like SDR2020 better, you are still taking advantage of the color and gamma calibration that was done and are simply choosing the tone mapping of the UB820 over the HDR Gamma curve loaded into your projector, so it is okay to be honest. [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif[/IMG]
I waiver back and forth because the results seem to as well. The Revenant looks better in HDR2020, while Aquaman looks better in SDR2020. It's a pain to change it each time, and going into a movie you've never seen before, are you going to go through that process each time?

I understand that in the projector world, we can't truly get HDR brightness. Nor would we want to because it would be blinding.

Both look terrific, and perhaps the SDR2020 may be more accurate to intent. Maybe?

However, sometimes I feel I get a deeper color and a punchier picture with Chad's HDR import curves rather than the 2.4 curves with the 820.

Plus, the optimizer of the 820 kicks in and adjusts the picture to 500 luminance on the HDR mode.

The experts will say otherwise, so I'm curious what the general opinion is among us.

Video: JVC RS620/X9500 projector, Stewart ST130 screen, Panasonic ub820 UHD player
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Last edited by Erod; 04-04-2019 at 07:01 AM.
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post #31739 of 31985 Old 04-04-2019, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erod View Post
For those of you fortunate enough to be calibrated by Chad B (like me) and have a Panny 820/420/9000, do you prefer to use Chad's HDR settings with the HDR2020 mode in your player, or do you prefer the SDR2020 in the player with an SDR2020 user setting in your projector as Kris Deering and others recommend for projectors?
I'll jump in here because I just had Chad out to my place last month.

Over a period of a couple visits, Chad created three modes for me on my RS500:
-SDR 2020, using 2.4 Gamma
-HDR Low lamp, using custom curve
-HDR High lamp, using custom curve

Prior to the visit last month, Chad hadn't been to my place since I picked up the UB820.

Before I had the UB820, I had the UB900 paired with a HD Fury. Eventually I dropped the Fury and just used the HDR custom curve Chad created for me.

The low lamp curve was good, but still a little dim for me. I simply boosted the slider to give me some additional brightness.
The high lamp curve was awesome, but due to my room setup and projector location the fan noise was more than I wanted to handle.

Once I got the UB820, I went back and forth between low lamp HDR and my SDR 2020 mode. The difference was so minor that I stuck with the SDR 2020 and turned on the Optimizer.

I had Chad take a look and give me his opinion based on my setup.
I have a Seymour XD, 115" 2:35 screen, so I am still starved for brightness due to the gain and the screen being AT.

Chad and I agreed that the best option, for my room, was to go with the SDR 2020 mode with the "slider" bumped up to +5. He ran some tests using his calibration tools and said I wasn't crushing blacks and we both thought the picture quality was great!

If I am ever able to tolerate the high lamp mode, I will use that over what I have but even Chad things the new UB820 tone mapping is a great product....especially for my generation of JVC projector.

I watched Aquaman and was really happy with how good the PQ was, overall. I thought maybe one or two scenes had a slight overly bright whites, but everything else was great.

IMO, I agree with Kris in regards to the benefits of using the SDR 2020 mode with low gain setups like myself. I simply don't have to play the "what if" game.

For the first time since jumping into the RS500 3 years ago, I am thrilled with my video performance in both 4K and standard Blu-ray. I plan on keeping this projector for at least another year or so, depending on if it has any issues or goes out on me.

Just my two cents.
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post #31740 of 31985 Old 04-04-2019, 10:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erod View Post
For those of you fortunate enough to be calibrated by Chad B (like me) and have a Panny 820/420/9000, do you prefer to use Chad's HDR settings with the HDR2020 mode in your player, or do you prefer the SDR2020 in the player with an SDR2020 user setting in your projector as Kris Deering and others recommend for projectors?
In my Chad B calibrated set-up (89 nits in high lamp with iris wide open for UHD on my RS440), I have preferred the 820 at SDR/2020 over the Arve curves although I know Chad has refined them more over time. But I have yet to notice anything odd (overly bright whites/clipping, etc.) with the 820 where as on the Arve curves I would see this too often. I also didn't like using multiple curves for various movies. Mind you, I do run across a movie here or there where I might move the 820 luminance slider up or down a couple of notches, but 90% of the time it's set and forget. I've been very pleased with the 820 as it's the first time I've really been satisfied with the tone mapping I'm getting.
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