Official JVC RS600 / RS500 (X950R / X750R - X9000 / X7000) Owners Thread - Page 1076 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #32251 of 32466 Old 12-08-2019, 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by 996911 View Post
I have no problem adding a vertex or similar but would prefer avoiding the requirement to add a device just to keep Gamma D from kicking on. But if I can’t watch 4K Apple content, then it really feels like a waste of having the ATV4K and will have to consider it.
I encountered the issue when watching Netflix Dolby Vision shows on ATV4K (one example is Marco Polo). Every few minutes the metadata changes and causes the projector to switch back to Gamma D.
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post #32252 of 32466 Old 12-08-2019, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by nathan_h View Post
I agree that if you are happy with your current process a vertex is overkill.

Try the ATV without it and see?
Yup, going to try that tomorrow evening when I get back from my travels and report back.

Cheers,
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post #32253 of 32466 Old 12-08-2019, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
I encountered the issue when watching Netflix Dolby Vision shows on ATV4K (one example is Marco Polo). Every few minutes the metadata changes and causes the projector to switch back to Gamma D.
Interesting. So even though the RS600 doesn’t do DV, the ATV still sends that metadata? Forgive me if I’m a tick ignorant to the Apple TV since I haven’t fully read up on it, but I’m guessing there is no setting (on the ATV) for HDR10 instead of DV? Or is it just an auto thing?

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post #32254 of 32466 Old 12-08-2019, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by 996911 View Post
Interesting. So even though the RS600 doesn’t do DV, the ATV still sends that metadata? Forgive me if I’m a tick ignorant to the Apple TV since I haven’t fully read up on it, but I’m guessing there is no setting (on the ATV) for HDR10 instead of DV? Or is it just an auto thing?
The ATV4K only shows the Dolby Vision (DV) option if the display is DV-compatible. If the display is HDR10 like the JVC, the ATV4K will convert DV to HDR10, but still changes the metadata mid-stream.
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post #32255 of 32466 Old 12-08-2019, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
The ATV4K only shows the Dolby Vision (DV) option if the display is DV-compatible. If the display is HDR10 like the JVC, the ATV4K will convert DV to HDR10, but still changes the metadata mid-stream.
Ah, ok. Appreciate the clarification

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post #32256 of 32466 Old 12-08-2019, 08:45 AM
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Yup, I load my custom 4K HDR curve and start watching. Never an issue but should it ever kick over to D then I know immediately and can switch back to my Chad curve easily. It’s a rare thing and never happens during physical media playback, and only if I jump out to menus streaming HDR content from Netflix. Hence the reason I have never added a vertex. Maybe Ill look into adding a vertex but I hate adding a 3-400 piece of equipment to lock in a setting on the projector.
All you need is the HDFury Linker - much cheaper - to allow the use of Dynamic Iris (if you like this option), and to prevent autoswitching to Gamma D. That's what I did with my prior RS400, and it worked perfectly. Good chance you can find one used.
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post #32257 of 32466 Old 12-08-2019, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by DLCPhoto View Post
All you need is the HDFury Linker - much cheaper - to allow the use of Dynamic Iris (if you like this option), and to prevent autoswitching to Gamma D. That's what I did with my prior RS400, and it worked perfectly. Good chance you can find one used.
Thanks! I like that idea. I remember reading about the differences between the 2 some time back but forgot. I thought the linker was for the DI and the vertex for preventing D. I guess I forgot what the selling point for each of the 2.

Cheers,
Ray
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post #32258 of 32466 Old 12-08-2019, 08:59 AM
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Thanks! I like that idea. I remember reading about the differences between the 2 some time back but forgot. I thought the linker was for the DI and the vertex for preventing D. I guess I forgot what the selling point for each of the 2.
Glad to help when I can. I just sold my RS400, including the Linker with it, otherwise I could have sold you mine!

BTW, as I'm not too far away, near Charlotte, NC, if you're ever interested in seeing the NX7 in action (with the Panamorph DCR as well), you're more than welcome to visit.

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post #32259 of 32466 Old 12-08-2019, 09:00 AM
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Just went back and read through my saved notes. Looks like the linker would be a good addition if all I care about is for my gamma D to not switch on and if I want to use the DI. The vertex does all that PLUS allows for automatic detection and switching to a desired projector setting based on the source you specify. Correct? If that’s the case I don’t need the vertex since I would actually prefer the settings on my projector to NOT auto switch. I like to “set it and forget it” manually so I know for sure what I’m getting. Besides I only use 2 settings that Chad made....1 for HD/4K and 1 for HDR

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post #32260 of 32466 Old 12-08-2019, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by DLCPhoto View Post
Glad to help when I can. I just sold my RS400, including the Linker with it, otherwise I could have sold you mine!

BTW, as I'm not too far away, near Charlotte, NC, if you're ever interested in seeing the NX7 in action (with the Panamorph DCR as well), you're more than welcome to visit.
That would be fantastic! Appreciate it! We enjoy making weekend trips to Charlotte.
And likewise, if you want to see my RS600 with Chads awesome work put through its paces. We are in North Raleigh near PNC
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Cheers,
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post #32261 of 32466 Old 12-08-2019, 09:15 AM
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I have the same one as well, except a slightly different / older model from way back, but same readout and VA and brand.
I had to replace the batteries after 7 or so years, it worked fine after replacing the battery with 2 generic batteries from Amazon.
The generic batteries might be a bit weaker, but hard to tell since I went so overkill on the VA it won't matter either way.

I don't know if the surge protection circuitry is still that good after that long.
They say you should replace surge protectors every X years, but I think it's very highly exaggerated on how quick surge protectors (or presumably UPS) lose their protection.
I know some types of protection circuitry can last almost forever, but just varies with different types.
I use the "Brick Wall" surge protector. It has a different type of protector which does not degrade as the surge protector does it's thing with surges.

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post #32262 of 32466 Old 12-08-2019, 11:03 AM
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That would be fantastic! Appreciate it! We enjoy making weekend trips to Charlotte.
And likewise, if you want to see my RS600 with Chads awesome work put through its paces. We are in North Raleigh near PNC
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post #32263 of 32466 Old 12-09-2019, 12:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
Can you not set up the Linker to force the Roku to 1080p initially, and go from there?

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Originally Posted by bwillcox View Post
I had a similar issue with my 2019 Rokus with my TVs (didn't notice it with my projector). I power cycled the Rokus (unplugged and replugged) and then went to the Display setting on the Roku and set it to 4K HDR 30Hz. Not sure the display setting had anything to do with it, but since then I haven't seen the issue.
Thanks for the suggestions. I may have it working now.

I have my RS500 receiving HDMI output from Marantz 8802A. What I think is happening .. When Roku is plugged in to the Marantz and Roku Display is set to auto detect by default, I think the Roku thinks 4K HDR 60Hz is OK (because of Marantz?) and defaults to 4K HDR 60Hz. But for some reason the RS500 doesn't seem to like this. What I did to get it to work was first install Roku on a 1080P display and manually set to 1080P on Roku. I then unplugged (removed power to Roku) and put it back with Marantz 8802A. On boot up, I could finally see menu with Display set as 1080P. I then manually set to 4K HDR 30Hz and it held . I tried this twice and so far both times I could reproduce this. What I need to try next is leave Roku Ultra on and start up Marantz and RS500 and see if the RS500 can display starting from 4K HDR 30Hz rather than from 1080P.

SW version was also updated to 9.2.0 build 4806.
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post #32264 of 32466 Old 12-09-2019, 03:17 AM
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Auto Iris sticks out like a sore thumb and I still don't know how any of you can actually use it.
I love the auto Iris and have done ever since my Epson TW3500. The latest one on the x9000 is amazing and a must have for me. I cannot stand the sight of raised blacks in low light scenes. I guess it depends on what you're used to - when I've also got an OLED panel in the same theater to not use the DI makes the picture seem washed out. I guess it's all personal preference. I do see it operating - but I notice the raised black level without it way more.
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post #32265 of 32466 Old 12-09-2019, 06:05 AM
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...I think the Roku thinks 4K HDR 60Hz is OK (because of Marantz?) and defaults to 4K HDR 60Hz. But for some reason the RS500 doesn't seem to like this.
It's not the RS500, as it can handle 4k at 60Hz. It could be the cables, since that is the highest bandwidth possible and while they might handle 4k at 24Hz, the 60Hz may be causing problems.

The other thing that happens is that because this generation of JVC's requires up to 15-20 seconds for the HDMI handshake, that the screen asking for your response ('can you see this display' or something like that) times out, thinking that it can't be seen. The work-around is to identify the keystroke sequence (probably up or down, then enter for OK, or something along those lines), so you can 'answer' while the handshake is taking place, and you can't actually see the screen.

It's a bit of a pain but only has to be done during the initial setup.

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post #32266 of 32466 Old 12-09-2019, 11:14 PM
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post #32267 of 32466 Old 12-10-2019, 06:34 PM
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Ok, so just to educate me one last time on the Linker......I have 2 questions for those of you familiar with it.

1. Is that ALL that is needed to just keep the RS600 from switching to Gamma D and allows me to keep any Gamma setting I have already selected (i.e., my custom ChadB curves) regardless of what the signal keeps sending?

2. Does it do anything else to the signal, picture, etc? Or can I just think of it as a passive piece of equipment that just keeps my RS600 as a set it and forget setup when watching a HDR movie/show/etc?

Bonus question....
3. And as I understand, it also allows the DI to be used when watching HDR material, correct?

Anything else?

Appreciate all the patience and help fellas!

Cheers,
Ray
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post #32268 of 32466 Old 12-10-2019, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 996911 View Post
Ok, so just to educate me one last time on the Linker......I have 2 questions for those of you familiar with it.

1. Is that ALL that is needed to just keep the RS600 from switching to Gamma D and allows me to keep any Gamma setting I have already selected (i.e., my custom ChadB curves) regardless of what the signal keeps sending?

2. Does it do anything else to the signal, picture, etc? Or can I just think of it as a passive piece of equipment that just keeps my RS600 as a set it and forget setup when watching a HDR movie/show/etc?

Bonus question....
3. And as I understand, it also allows the DI to be used when watching HDR material, correct?

Anything else?

Appreciate all the patience and help fellas!
Hi, for item #1 , the linker is all that needed to prevent the JVC from engaging Gamma D. #2 , it doesn't do anything else to the image, it's passive.

#3 - it will allow the DI to work with HDR material.

That's pretty much it, it's a great device for this purpose. Set it and forget it
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post #32269 of 32466 Old 12-10-2019, 06:46 PM
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Hi, for item #1 , the linker is all that needed to prevent the JVC from engaging Gamma D. #2 , it doesn't do anything else to the image, it's passive.

#3 - it will allow the DI to work with HDR material.

That's pretty much it, it's a great device for this purpose. Set it and forget it
Perfect! Appreciate the input.

I saw that it's $179 on the HDFury website but also found it at a few other resellers and B&H seems to have the best price right now at $149 so I'll probably grab it from them this week. Cheers!

Cheers,
Ray
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post #32270 of 32466 Old 12-10-2019, 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by 996911 View Post
Perfect! Appreciate the input.

I saw that it's $179 on the HDFury website but also found it at a few other resellers and B&H seems to have the best price right now at $149 so I'll probably grab it from them this week. Cheers!
HDFury also provides fairly straightforward instructions on the settings to configure it to do what you want. It's quite simple, and should only take a few minutes to do that.

You might also find a used one in Classified in the $100 or so range, although the $149 isn't bad all things considered.

In fact, I just remembered I had posted about this when I bought mine, and HDFury confirmed that what I posted was correct:

HDFury Linker Setup

Don

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post #32271 of 32466 Old 12-10-2019, 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by DLCPhoto View Post
HDFury also provides fairly straightforward instructions on the settings to configure it to do what you want. It's quite simple, and should only take a few minutes to do that.

You might also find a used one in Classified in the $100 or so range, although the $149 isn't bad all things considered.

In fact, I just remembered I had posted about this when I bought mine, and HDFury confirmed that what I posted was correct:

HDFury Linker Setup

Don
Wow! Thanks so much for that. Saves me a lot of grief. Beers on me when I get down your way
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Cheers,
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post #32272 of 32466 Old 12-11-2019, 07:09 AM
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I went to mount my jvc rs600 on the ceiling last night and my power outlet and low voltage boxes are centered on my screen. Is it ok to mount the projector about 3" off center of the screen? According to the manual the rs600 can shift left to right 34%. Has anyone done this?
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post #32273 of 32466 Old 12-11-2019, 07:59 AM
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I went to mount my jvc rs600 on the ceiling last night and my power outlet and low voltage boxes are centered on my screen. Is it ok to mount the projector about 3" off center of the screen? According to the manual the rs600 can shift left to right 34%. Has anyone done this?
The available horizontal shift depends on how much vertical shift is used up. Usually 3” shouldn’t be a problem.
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post #32274 of 32466 Old 12-11-2019, 11:20 PM
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In practical terms, what is the downside of running the projector lamp until failure? I blew past the 3400 hour automatic 'replace lamp' message many months ago and now am at 4400 hours. I have zero brightness complaints, in fact, I have tried a few different bare bulbs (allegedly "Genuine USHIO NSHA250JK") that were significantly dimmer than my 4400 hour original lamp.

Are "explosive failures" that actually damage the projector a real thing or just an urban legend that gets tossed around? There seems to be a pretty thick piece of glass/lens in the housing and I can't quite see how a failure could 'destroy' a projector.

My plan is to run the original lamp until it dies and then replace it with a genuine JVC housing/lamp. Those are spendy so I want to get every single hour out of the lamp that I can.

Is there really any actual harm in just continuing to use my original lamp until it fails?
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post #32275 of 32466 Old 12-12-2019, 08:31 AM
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You are right that the housing tends to contain lamp failure. But I do believe those user reports about that occasionally not working, and damaging the projector. I have had one lamp fail inside the projector and it didn't do any damage (other than to my wallet since it was after only a few hundred hours of use). But if you want to play it safe, yes, it is like a seatbelt: 99% of the time it won't matter. That other 1%, you'll be very glad you replaced the lamp before it died.*

Anyway, TL;DR is yes, it can mess up your projector in rare cases.





(*That said, most people end up replacing their lamp because of light output concerns, and image quality stability (calibration shifts too quickly) concerns. Chances are good gray scale even if it was perfect at one time, is now shifting more and more quickly....and it is guaranteed that gamma is degrading, especially on our generation. One can bust out the light meter and test patterns and touch things up, but that becomes necessary more and more often, and there is less and less headroom to work with.

There are some unicorn lamps that seem to last forever and have good output. But I am always amazed at how much better things look with a new lamp. Given how much I have invested in my theater, spending $400 once every few thousand hours to make things look like new is a no brainer for me. I figure every time I do that, I have managed to save money on upgrading for another couple thousand hours of viewing..... which is just a mind game, of course.)
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post #32276 of 32466 Old 12-12-2019, 09:26 AM
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I've had lamps on older JVC's explode into tiny pieces where none of the lamp was left, it was unrecognizable.
I picked the lamp up, and I saw the mercury laced dust dripping off like it was radioactive, the dust was shiny and silver (not good).

There was literally nothing left of the lamp at all, one tiny shard of glass and the metal socket, that was it.
I had to clean it up with a credit card and a vacuum.

As far as hurting the projector, not likely unless you miss a piece and the glass falls into something.
There might be some electrical condition that could be caused by a lamp exploding, but I cannot think of any.

More than likely is if a projector's lamp exploded, and then the projector no longer works, the ballast failed, surged the lamp and the ballast failing is what caused the explosion.
If a lamp explodes under normal conditions, it damaging the projector would be extremely unlikely unless the ballast had an engineering defect from the beginning.
Of course there might be some rare instance that I'm not thinking of, but electrically it wouldn't make sense most of the time.
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post #32277 of 32466 Old 12-12-2019, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
The available horizontal shift depends on how much vertical shift is used up. Usually 3” shouldn’t be a problem.
Thank you! I don't believe I'll have to use too much vertical shift. I mounted the projector last night and my lens is 10" from the ceiling and I i believe the top of my screen will be at 15" from ceiling. Thanks again!
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post #32278 of 32466 Old 12-15-2019, 04:10 PM
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Just powered up my rs600 and this is what I got! What am I doing wrong? I can’t find how to flip image!
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woodboss83 is offline  
post #32279 of 32466 Old 12-15-2019, 04:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodboss83 View Post
Just powered up my rs600 and this is what I got! What am I doing wrong? I can’t find how to flip image!
It’s not just flipping the image. You first need to use the lens shift to shift the image on to the screen.
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Dominic Chan is offline  
post #32280 of 32466 Old 12-15-2019, 06:05 PM
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Got it! Thank you!!
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jvc-rs500u synch/display issue? , RS600

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