Official JVC RS600 / RS500 (X950R / X750R - X9000 / X7000) Owners Thread - Page 134 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #3991 of 32208 Old 01-07-2016, 07:48 PM
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@Zombie

Dude, you have the patience of a saint
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post #3992 of 32208 Old 01-07-2016, 08:08 PM
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I was just thinking the same thing bahahaha
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post #3993 of 32208 Old 01-07-2016, 08:21 PM
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The algorithms are run sequentially and are usually done in the order listed. Due to the way the sharpness algorithm is altering the pixel structure, the smoothing algorithm can smooth artifacts while leaving the new sharpness alone. It can also reduce noise or artifacts caused by the sharpness filter. Also a little sharpening followed by a little smoothing could look sharper, but more natural than just sharpening alone. The controls give you the ability to do what you think looks best.

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Originally Posted by RonF View Post
That's not how I interpret what smoothing is about. They say, "Smoothing: Enhances the blurriness of the image for a softer effect". Like the bokeh or out of focus areas of the background in a still photograph with shallow depth of field. It's not about fighting or smoothing artifacts. If someone is sure that is incorrect please let me know.
They could be talking about the purist definition of smoothing (as it applies to imagery, not bandwidth, there is another definition people often use which is bandwidth smoothing and they call it video smoothing). In imagery anyhow, there are a subset of specific algorithms used for reducing the jaggy or harsh looks of an image, there is also smoothing algorithms applied in video content to try to counteract the effects of lossy formats and lossy compression (like for streaming). The stuff gets too involved, so I don't usually go too far into it. Sometimes people say smoothing and they really mean anti-aliasing (which is primarily an attempt to smooth the edges only), a different subject entirely, but I would guess that E-Shift has some traits similar to an AA effect when it comes down to it. A reduction of transitional peaks and lows too quickly in an image is a nice trait to have in an image, if you can do it without making the image look soft.

A lot of the algorithms are pre-developed and published in papers by various sources, and the video MFR's just implement them as-is and might add exclusionary ranges or adjustments to the algorithms. Though a lot of the algorithms are plug-in and already have parameters setup for the sole and intent purpose of them being fully customizable. Sometimes the best video processing manufacturers are simply the best pick and choosers of the algorithms, or tweakers so to speak.

I suppose you could study it and note your own perceptions to us all.

Edit:
The way people often "label" stuff in this industry is so counter-intuitive. Let's call bandwidth optimization "video smoothing" because we are affecting the video frames, great idea!
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post #3994 of 32208 Old 01-07-2016, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Kris Deering View Post
3. In a room with that kind of ambient light I would suggest you look at a 2.3 power curve honestly, maybe even 2.2.
hmm i had not picked this up before. in a very dark room a higher gamma curve and in a lighter room a lower curve. interesting.

greg
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post #3995 of 32208 Old 01-07-2016, 09:12 PM
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i have not seen anywhere the impact of running high lamp on bulb life. does anyone have any thoughts on this?

i am a couple days in on my RS600 and so far i am very impressed.
The good:
- mine is very uniform with the hide button on. no bright corners that i can see.
- convergence looks very good
- there are moments that it almost looks 3D
- i am getting at least as much light as i had predicted and i am nearly at maximum zoom (i guestimated it based on the lens specs
- the remote protocol is very robust. Mark over at CQC is updating his driver for JVC to handle all the new features so i will have great 2 way remote control capabilities.
- Native contrast is much better than what i had (it should be)

The "not as good" for me
- dynamic iris keeps annoying me. i keep seeing the pumping. i have never had di before so i find i am running without it mostly which is still good.
- HDMI is deathly slow but it seems to work for everything i use
- I guess i thought 150000:1 contrast would be blacker than this. it is still good but i can clearly see my shadow on a hidden screen if i stand up. even with the DI on i see it. i am running high lamp though.

overall this is a great projector for the money. I am really happy with it. i think i would be more blown away by the blacks had i not read all the people going on about how it was total blackness, etc. i think i set the bar too high.

overall i would rate it WAY COOL!

greg
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post #3996 of 32208 Old 01-07-2016, 09:16 PM
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Hopefully they will update the firmware to increase the HDMI negotiation changeover speed.

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post #3997 of 32208 Old 01-07-2016, 09:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indygreg View Post
- dynamic iris keeps annoying me. i keep seeing the pumping. i have never had di before so i find i am running without it mostly which is still good.
turn the iris back on auto 2 then turn the MPC dynamic contrast setting to zero with no other changes and let us know if you see a difference.
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post #3998 of 32208 Old 01-07-2016, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post
basic setup info:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-dig...l#post39521362

for the focus, turn off e-shift and choose the installation menu and turn the image pattern off. Now it will let you focus with real content in the background for a reference. I recommend doing this close to the screen for the fine adjustments.

I know you are trying to help but I am still lost. All I have learned in 1 hour is how to change user1 to '2D Low'. I now have access to a myriad of others variables that I don't understand and still have no clue what settings will be best in my environment. Time to take some sleeping pills and try to sleep off this frustration.
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post #3999 of 32208 Old 01-07-2016, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post
turn the iris back on auto 2 then turn the MPC dynamic contrast setting to zero with no other changes and let us know if you see a difference.
sure. i took a couple videos and rendered them so you can see with and without DI. these are all shot with a GH3 in a pitch black room with the exact same settings. all manual so iso, shutter, iris, etc are all the same on the camera for every shot. focus is kind fo dodgy as i was fumbling in a very dark room all of these are with all MPC settings at 0.

Top Manual Iris, Bottom Auto2

Left Side Manual, Right Side Auto2

I guess i assumed the auto iris would keep the light things on the screen at least close to the same brightness as the manual but for me it just makes things look dingy and lifeless. do others see this or do i have an issue?

greg

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post #4000 of 32208 Old 01-07-2016, 11:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Willie View Post
@Zombie

Dude, you have the patience of a saint
Quote:
Originally Posted by sk576c View Post
I was just thinking the same thing bahahaha

Glad you and everybody else that liked your comments got a good laugh out of my frustration.

Been trying to get some answers and was ignored for days until I posted an inflammatory Trump-esque comment. If it works for the Donald...

In any case this is a very complicated machine that I should not have bought and now need to learn another language in a couple days because JVC does not include some form of auto calibration. My cheap camera can do many things on Auto, just press a button and Shazaam!! We have the same thing here with a bigger lens. I'm so glad to entertain and provide laughs for the wonderful patrons of AVS. BTW did your projector remote at least come with batteries, mine didn't. WTF!

Last edited by Carrick; 01-07-2016 at 11:32 PM.
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post #4001 of 32208 Old 01-07-2016, 11:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carrick View Post
I know you are trying to help but I am still lost. All I have learned in 1 hour is how to change user1 to '2D Low'. I now have access to a myriad of others variables that I don't understand and still have no clue what settings will be best in my environment. Time to take some sleeping pills and try to sleep off this frustration.
Maybe this is not a good DIY project for you. have you considered hiring a calibrator?

greg

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post #4002 of 32208 Old 01-07-2016, 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Carrick View Post
In any case this is a very complicated machine that I should not have bought and now need to learn another language in a couple days because JVC does not include some form of auto calibration. My cheap camera can do many things on Auto, just press a button and Shazaam!! We have the same thing here with a bigger lens.
Just put the projector into a good default mode, you don't need any calibration until you hire someone if you wish to hire someone. The calibrations these days are just for purists or videophiles mostly. We don't understand your issue, and if you post comments like ...wt---, then it probably isn't going to get a response.

You are actually lucky as the forum has calmed down some from the old days, we used to grief people in here quite a bit, and I was on the receiving end plenty. I'm over it, griefing days are over...

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post #4003 of 32208 Old 01-08-2016, 12:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carrick View Post
Glad you and everybody else that liked your comments got a good laugh out of my frustration.
In any case this is a very complicated machine that I should not have bought and now need to learn another language in a couple days because JVC does not include some form of auto calibration.
Carrick, we know from previous comments that this is your first projector.
Yes, there are A LOT of things to play with and learn. I reckon I had about the 5th X7000 released on the world in my house. I couldn't get it showing a picture for 3 days because there was a setting called EDID that I had to change to B, while using HDMI #2 . I'd never heard of EDID before in my life.
You know how I managed to get it to work. I READ THE MANUAL, OVER AND OVER TILL I FOUND SOMETHING THAT WOULD HELP ME. ( Before you ask, there is a link to the Manual in Zombie's signature)
The reason I "liked" the comment about Zombie having the patience of a saint, was because it appears, like a lot of the world today, you don't want to use your own intelligence, you just want somebody to give you the easy answer. Sorry if that sounds a bit harsh. I've had a long day at work and don't feel like handing out "medals for participation". If you want to get the best out of the money you've spent you gonna have to put in some effort.
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post #4004 of 32208 Old 01-08-2016, 12:05 AM
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like a lot of the world today, you don't want to use your own intelligence
Reminds me of about 90% of the people I have to deal with in "the real world". AVS isn't the real world, instead people in here use their intelligence too much Probably need to find the correct middle ground.

Only 2 things I'd like to see fixed on the JVC...

Slow HDMI negotiation and black corners quality control... Seems like convergence QC is already there.
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post #4005 of 32208 Old 01-08-2016, 12:24 AM
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No, it was sold through eBay. And double boxing it would have changed nothing, since the box looked intact when it arrived (of course, if you professionally drop it, it will not show on the box, and insurance claim will be harder since there is no "proof" that THEY broke it...) .
That sucks stef2. I agree there are just sometimes that the best packaging job ever won't save you're gear in transit. Happened to me years ago shipping a big, heavy Rotel 1095 amp when the carrier decided to drop it off a truck/cliff somewhere. The giant power transformer inside that was bolted to the bottom of the chassis was literally flopping around inside. I had insured it for the sale value which was half of the cost of a new retail unit. I refunded the seller their money so they didn't have to deal with it and Rotel repaired/gutted the whole thing and basically gave me a brand new amp in my old case for a very minimal additional cost beyond the insured value--awesome service. Wish I still had that amp...

Ever since that incident I probably go overboard on my packaging. When I shipped my X500 off recently, the factory box was placed inside a 28"x28"x26" box with 2" of peanuts on all sides and 3-4" minimum of peanuts both top and bottom, insured of course. The factory box and foam are lucky to protect the projector in transit on a pallet one time, let alone individual transit through a carrier.

Last edited by FraggleRock; 01-08-2016 at 08:33 AM. Reason: typo - "minimal cost", protect - darn autocorrect on mobile :)
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post #4006 of 32208 Old 01-08-2016, 12:29 AM
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I've always been lucky with projectors, my problem has always been delivery people leaving stuff in the rain outside of the front door.
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post #4007 of 32208 Old 01-08-2016, 02:13 AM
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Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post
basic setup info:

Projector Mini-Shootout Thread

for the focus, turn off e-shift and choose the installation menu and turn the image pattern off. Now it will let you focus with real content in the background for a reference. I recommend doing this close to the screen for the fine adjustments.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Carrick View Post
I know you are trying to help but I am still lost. All I have learned in 1 hour is how to change user1 to '2D Low'. I now have access to a myriad of others variables that I don't understand and still have no clue what settings will be best in my environment. Time to take some sleeping pills and try to sleep off this frustration.
Carrick, turning off e-shift is the top box in the MPC settings on the page in the menu that shows those. Go left or right with your rounded cursing buttons around the enter button on the remote, to turn e-shift on or off. With it off and your nose about 18" from the screen when you are in focus you can barely see the tiny 1080P resolution pixel gaps. Even with the internal green thick line pattern the JVC puts up for focus. Actually the green helps see it or another pattern with white lines. They are so tiny on the last 2 generations that they are hard to see unless you are in focus. Hopefully when you get the center looking that way the rest of the screen with the pattern or other focussing patterns or solid white screen if you have a 100 IRE pattern on a calibration disk, will also barely show those gaps all the way across. Keep rocking the up and down round buttons and try to stop on the clearest rendering of those pixels, or then give 1 or 2 individual clicks either way when you are close to perfect focus.

If you have some "droop" in one corner it is 99.99% likely that your lens is not perpendicular to the screen on all axis. With the zoom setting get the geometry pattern just inside the edges of your screen and play with the positioning of the projector to accomplish that. Then zoom the pattern bigger to just reach the edges of your screen material. Do this before your "fine" focussing.

Once that's done go to post 12193 from Zombie via the link in his signature. Takes you here: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-dig...l#post39521362

Then literally go through the 4 or five screen shots of the menu he has posted and read his few instructions for each carefully. This is much easier to get you where you want to be with a "bald eagle" and not turkey of an image and projector, than trying to figure out the whole manual on line on your own. Wife is now happy. Happy wife is happy life.

Pick 6500K for your Color Temperature.

For Color Profile, as he says when you're looking at his screen shots, choose Custom1 but leave the Color Management off, as he also says right above his settings that have been adjusted for his projector only. You should be in the ballpark now even with them off as far as your color balance out of the box.

And follow his instructions on how to choose Gamma 2.3 and tweak the bottom "Dark" setting up 2 or 3 clicks.

In the top menu for picture setting of course you have the standard, familiar Brightness for dark level, Contrast for your brightest details, Color saturation and Hue sliders.

Good luck! I have a hunch after sleeping on it as you said, you will be able to get it looking very nice just following what he has shared with everyone here from the choices in the out of the box settings.

Last edited by RonF; 01-08-2016 at 02:23 AM.
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post #4008 of 32208 Old 01-08-2016, 02:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Carrick View Post
Glad you and everybody else that liked your comments got a good laugh out of my frustration.

Been trying to get some answers and was ignored for days until I posted an inflammatory Trump-esque comment. If it works for the Donald...

In any case this is a very complicated machine that I should not have bought and now need to learn another language in a couple days because JVC does not include some form of auto calibration. My cheap camera can do many things on Auto, just press a button and Shazaam!! We have the same thing here with a bigger lens. I'm so glad to entertain and provide laughs for the wonderful patrons of AVS. BTW did your projector remote at least come with batteries, mine didn't. WTF!
Just press THX on the remote. If this doesn't give you a great picture from a standard bluray player you have a defective projector or a bad setup, which means you need help.

If that gives you a good picture and if you don't want to put the work in to make it even better, you have about 100 hours to hire a calibrator and do the work for you.
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post #4009 of 32208 Old 01-08-2016, 03:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indygreg View Post
sure. i took a couple videos and rendered them so you can see with and without DI. these are all shot with a GH3 in a pitch black room with the exact same settings. all manual so iso, shutter, iris, etc are all the same on the camera for every shot. focus is kind fo dodgy as i was fumbling in a very dark room all of these are with all MPC settings at 0.

Top Manual Iris, Bottom Auto2


Left Side Manual, Right Side Auto2


I guess i assumed the auto iris would keep the light things on the screen at least close to the same brightness as the manual but for me it just makes things look dingy and lifeless. do others see this or do i have an issue?

greg
Your DI is working fine. I find the JVC DI is more aggressive than my Sony hw50. I leave it on for all material.
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post #4010 of 32208 Old 01-08-2016, 04:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carrick View Post
Glad you and everybody else that liked your comments got a good laugh out of my frustration.

Been trying to get some answers and was ignored for days until I posted an inflammatory Trump-esque comment. If it works for the Donald...

In any case this is a very complicated machine that I should not have bought and now need to learn another language in a couple days because JVC does not include some form of auto calibration. My cheap camera can do many things on Auto, just press a button and Shazaam!! We have the same thing here with a bigger lens. I'm so glad to entertain and provide laughs for the wonderful patrons of AVS. BTW did your projector remote at least come with batteries, mine didn't. WTF!
as per manni below, hit THX. its pretty decent with a standard blu-ray player for 2D and 3D

Quote:
Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
Just press THX on the remote. If this doesn't give you a great picture from a standard bluray player you have a defective projector or a bad setup, which means you need help.

If that gives you a good picture and if you don't want to put the work in to make it even better, you have about 100 hours to hire a calibrator and do the work for you.
carrick if wanting to go a bit further ...grab a light meter and wow disney disc. its pretty self explanatory and has a basic section for beginners which will have you set up for light output on the projector, brightness, contrast and colour.

thats about all probably needed for first 100-200-300 hours or so till can get a calibrator to come help you out.

the jvcs out of box are actually pretty good, just a few minor tweaks and pretty decent to get through to a calibration.

ps as others have suggested though you really do need to read up on the manual even if its for some basics... people online can help but only so far....

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post #4011 of 32208 Old 01-08-2016, 05:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carrick View Post

In any case this is a very complicated machine that I should not have bought and now need to learn another language in a couple days because JVC does not include some form of auto calibration.
It isn't complicated, but you've done your best to make sure that it is. I had no trouble at all with the very simple menus and within very little time I had two lens memories set up and the basic user picture setting. (in addition to disabling e-shift to focus, etc)

I agree with you that you've made a poor decision. Hopefully, there is a return policy with a low re-stocking fee.

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post #4012 of 32208 Old 01-08-2016, 06:09 AM
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@ Carrick

I made the turn onto Curmudgeon Avenue years ago.

Rule number 1: Before you turn on any piece of new technology (to you) find a place where you can read the manual thoroughly, undisturbed, - even if you don't understand the manual.

Rule number 2: Follow the setup instructions in the manual.

Rule 3: Only post a request for help on an open forum after following rules 1 & 2. Generally, if you post a "this is my first projector, help message" that says "I don't know where to start, hold my hand" without explaining what you have done previously, you won't get much of a response, if any at all.

Rule 4: A Trump-esque rant may get you a response; it may not always be the response you are looking for. The guiding principle is that forum members are more than willing to help those who have demonstrated they have tried to help themselves. Not sure that was evident in your posts.

BTW, the batteries for JVC remotes are usually embedded in the styrofoam in the shipping carton.
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post #4013 of 32208 Old 01-08-2016, 06:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indygreg View Post
sure. i took a couple videos and rendered them so you can see with and without DI. these are all shot with a GH3 in a pitch black room with the exact same settings. all manual so iso, shutter, iris, etc are all the same on the camera for every shot. focus is kind fo dodgy as i was fumbling in a very dark room all of these are with all MPC settings at 0.

Top Manual Iris, Bottom Auto2


Left Side Manual, Right Side Auto2


I guess i assumed the auto iris would keep the light things on the screen at least close to the same brightness as the manual but for me it just makes things look dingy and lifeless. do others see this or do i have an issue?

greg
I see the same thing Greg and like you thought the text looks dim & lifeless. I also thought that as the iris closes the white parts would stay bright or at least brighter than your video shows, I thought that was part of the fancy algorithms of a DI. I recently watched Gravity and didn't notice the DI in the scene you showed but, I seen the movie before and wasn't watching real closely. On other material I have not noticed the DI, it's just on text with a black background (end credits mosty) that I notice it. I wonder if Auto1 is more involved and brightens the text a little more on those Lucy videos. I'm going to look this weekend.
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post #4014 of 32208 Old 01-08-2016, 06:12 AM
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Your DI is working fine. I find the JVC DI is more aggressive than my Sony hw50. I leave it on for all material.
Really? That picture on "Auto 2" looks like what you'd see when the bulb needs to be replaced; it's completely horrible and I'd certainly never buy a projector that looked like that in a demo.
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post #4015 of 32208 Old 01-08-2016, 06:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Tom Bley View Post
I see the same thing Greg and like you thought the text looks dim & lifeless. I also thought that as the iris closes the white parts would stay bright or at least brighter than your video shows, I thought that was part of the fancy algorithms of a DI. I recently watched Gravity and didn't notice the DI in the scene you showed but, I seen the movie before and wasn't watching real closely. On other material I have not noticed the DI, it's just on text with a black background (end credits mosty) that I notice it. I wonder if Auto1 is more involved and brights the text a little more on those Lucy videos. I'm going to look this weekend.
Auto1 is not better. i guess that is what surprised me. i understand having one setting that gives the the bazillion to one contrast ratio that they can advertise but i figured the other setting would be quite a bit different. it seems like the algorithms are based on APL rather than the max picture level. if an entire picture is at video level 16 except 5% is at 150 it would make sense that the DI would close and the panel would be told to display 16 and 235. if the high points on the screen are already at 235 and it closes the iris, the panel can't get any brighter to compensate. so even though the APL is very low the scene just requires a high native contrast to cover the spread between 16 and 235 and not clip the bright parts of the picture. plus i find that on a scene like credits where there is some very bright bits the blacks look black on manual. i assume the iris in your eye is closing and it's algorithm is better than jvc's. where DI would be useful is on scenes that have low APL AND low peak light like people in a dark room. it would be great if they offered a second algorithm that is much less aggressive. the other seemingly obvious thing that noone does is to have an optional mode where it buffers a second or two of video to effectively look ahead and know what is coming. at 18Gb/s 4GB of memory would do it and I assume it could use ARC to keep the audio in sync?

again, manual is still very good for real world viewing but it is a shame that DI doesn't work better. it seems like a simple change to one of the algorithms is all that is needed.

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post #4016 of 32208 Old 01-08-2016, 07:57 AM
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Thanks for all the replies Mike, i will try your suggestions. I've probably had 10 or so projectors in this same spot (including an RS57) and have never needed this much correction for the optics, but if you believe this is "within spec" i feel a lot better about it. Thanks again.

John
I don't think it is a question of it being in spec or not. I think it is just not set up correctly to the screen. Reduce size of image so that it is slightly smaller than frame and post image, where we can see the relationship between the image and the frame. You do not have to use a test pattern. You can use the blue, no input screen for this.
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post #4017 of 32208 Old 01-08-2016, 08:08 AM
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Went ahead and turned it on without waiting for your response and looks like feces!! My 10 year old Mits DLP 1080i has a better picture than this. Also the "focus" screen does not show any letters, just another grid. Wife is bouncing off the walls after I spent so much, so I got to turn this turkey into a Bald Eagle really quick. I could have gone with a BenQ for under a grand and gotten the same picture or better so whoever said it looks good outta the box must have gotten a good one. And how do I focus the screen while it's playing a movie? I figured a remote with so few buttons must be easy, right? NOT

Very unhappy so I am going to Zombie's thread now to try and figure out how to focus this thing. BTW I also have bottom right droop, what is wrong with JVC that they can't seem to fix this after nearly a decade, maybe they think we don't see it or worse they we like it?
I sent you an email answering your other questions, but as for bottom right droop, 99% of the time, this is a setup issue, not a projector issue. If you are down to one corner being low, then you are close on setup, but not there yet.
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post #4018 of 32208 Old 01-08-2016, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by coderguy View Post
Main reason I am thinking of upgrading is because of the 3D and the brightness. I would lose some contrast going from the RS-45 to the RS400 (not a whole lot), but some. I hope the lamp longevity can match the experience I've had on DLP's, which is 4000-6000 hours. I don't know if I want to pony up that much cash for one projector being the Rs-500, because others in here have had good luck selling their old JVC's and old projectors, well I have not had the same such luck... So I don't know if I'd be able to resell it and upgrade again later. Seems like no-one wants a used RS-45 these days.
I know you are running an HP screen, but if you have the iris five clicks open or more, then I bet you are not losing any native contrast.
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post #4019 of 32208 Old 01-08-2016, 08:28 AM
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That sucks stef2. I agree there are just sometimes that the best packaging job ever won't save you're gear in transit. Happened to me years ago shipping a big, heavy Rotel 1095 amp when the carrier decided to drop it off a truck/cliff somewhere. The giant power transformer inside that was bolted to the bottom of the chassis was literally flopping around inside. I had insured it for the sale value which was half of the cost of a new retail unit. I refunded the seller their money so they didn't have to deal with it and Rotel repaired/gutted the whole thing and basically gave me a brand new amp in my old case for a very minimal additional cost beyond the insured value--awesome service. Wish I still had that amp...

Ever since that incident I probably go overboard on my packaging. When I shipped my X500 off recently, the factory box was placed inside a 28"x28"x26" box with 2" of peanuts on all sides and 3-4" minimum of peanuts both top and bottom, insured of course. The factory box and foam are lucky to project the projector in transit on a pallet one time, let alone individual transit through a carrier.
Yep, my foam was cracked and broken,. So was Craig's and Zoombie's. And yes these arrive on a pallet to us. This is why we double box them, because individual handling is usually not as easy on the product as freight shipped on a pallet. With the exception of a fork truck running a fork through a box.
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post #4020 of 32208 Old 01-08-2016, 08:48 AM
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Hi all,
First HUGE thanks @@zombie10k; ,and you others too…you know who you are , . Guys like you all are who make hobby forums work!

My RS600 arrived yesterday afternoon.

Quick initial impressions…I’ll post up more this afternoon after work. I’m coming from an Epson 6020.

First I went on a witch hunt for “issues”, that’s just me

1) Bright corners – VERY faint on 0% test patterns. Looked at Oblivion interrogation….could just make it out if really trying/focusing on lower right…..no worries in my book…stupidly livable
2) Streaking – Slight amount but not noticeable from seating distance…not an issue
3) Convergence – looks good on first blush
4) Focus – looks great. Easily sharper than my 6020


Real world content – Oblivion, Gravity, Ratatouille. I used Zombie’s setting and I put in 2 hours or so on these movies.

1) Black floor is so nice…not "I can’t see the screen" it's so black but I’ll show some pics later on it vs 6020….not even in the same zip code. This projector will cause me to turn off my step lights (on 30% now)….that’s dark.
2) Great contrast – can see significant difference vs 6020 without direct A/B…even my wife could tell.


More to come later with some pics too….off to work.
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