Official JVC RS600 / RS500 (X950R / X750R - X9000 / X7000) Owners Thread - Page 683 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #20461 of 31985 Old 02-07-2017, 09:14 AM
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@Toe @krichter1 @Manni01 - it's the reunion of the original JVC crew from 5 years ago.. we just need to locate Sam and Jon from the UK

long road from the RS40, RS50 days (still want to go office space on that projector...) ->>> 2016/2017 models. From literally the worst 3D (well that honor belonged to the VW90 and Mitsubishi HC9000) to some of the best non-DLP out there today. I haven't seen any of the L/R patterns on the competition that fully competes with what JVC has accomplished with 3D starting last year.
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post #20462 of 31985 Old 02-07-2017, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post
This might be the first time i'm glad I bought a projector with the 5 year warranty. I've seen about a dozen RS500/600's, my particular copy is A++, best factory convergence I've seen in years and excellent edge to edge focus on my 142".

RS600/UB900/X7200/ATMOS/18" Sub combo is going to hold me over for a while until the next big thing happens in a few years.

We watched Miss Peregrine's Home for Peculiar Children in 3D the other night..(this is not a kids movie..) amazing overall presentation for video and sound. Highly recommended to check out.
Yur welcome for pushing you over the Immersive cliff (and to do your RH's right away)! As I stated earlier this has to be the most fun (and challenging), year I've ever had in HT.

Miss P as I reported earlier is one of my "go to" discs for calibrating/examining color & crush (great movie and may be one of the best "nearly 4K" titles I own!).

Wish I lived closer so I could check out those 18" monsters in your room (or maybe... its a blessing in disguise I do live too far!).
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post #20463 of 31985 Old 02-07-2017, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post
@Toe @krichter1 @Manni01 - it's the reunion of the original JVC crew from 5 years ago.. we just need to locate Sam and Jon from the UK

long road from the RS40, RS50 days (still want to go office space on that projector...) ->>> 2016/2017 models. From literally the worst 3D (well that honor belonged to the VW90 and Mitsubishi HC9000) to some of the best non-DLP out there today. I haven't seen any of the L/R patterns on the competition that fully competes with what JVC has accomplished with 3D starting last year.
The original band is reuniting! Maybe I can track down Sam....would be great to hear from him!

Kudos to JVC for finally getting in a low lag mode as well! I'm not a big gamer and haven't gamed at all in a few years now, but having this mode will get me back to playing a few games here and there again in the HT which will be a great option when the need hits.

I know there could always be improvements, but these JVCs for me and IMO just don't have any significant weak points anymore which is why I had to grab one.

You guys got me super excited to check out 3d on the new models! As much as I've enjoyed my benq 7000, I can't wait to get FAR superior contrast and the solid glasses sync of the JVC.
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post #20464 of 31985 Old 02-07-2017, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post
@Toe @krichter1 @Manni01 - it's the reunion of the original JVC crew from 5 years ago.. we just need to locate Sam and Jon from the UK

long road from the RS40, RS50 days (still want to go office space on that projector...) ->>> 2016/2017 models. From literally the worst 3D (well that honor belonged to the VW90 and Mitsubishi HC9000) to some of the best non-DLP out there today. I haven't seen any of the L/R patterns on the competition that fully competes with what JVC has accomplished with 3D starting last year.
Yeah man no kidding!!

I have kept in contact a bit with Jon (and don't forget Geoff!), but not since before the holidays (I think for Manni too). I think the read I get is it's just way tooo expensive in the UK for these JVCs now (not everyone has the Manni connections over there!)

I certainly wish things had gone a WHOLE lot better w/ that POS model but that's in the past (what was that JVC exec "tools" name again... Bill Birddall or something??). What a journey we've had huh Jas!? Just glad we're at this point in 2016 (and couldn't have imagined this level in just 6 "short" years!).

Looking forward to Todds impressions on the PJ (he's gonna need a pillow on the floor to protect his jaw me thinks! )
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post #20465 of 31985 Old 02-07-2017, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by krichter1 View Post
What up Todd (long time my brutha!)!

Sorry I did see it late at night then got busy yesterday with a work "fire" then just plain forgot (gotta stop smoking bowls at night!).

Answers in bold above my brutha (and congrats on finally finding your wallet to be able to upgrade... you'll be saying "why the hell didn't I do this earlier!"... better late than never... Enjoy (I know what pushed you over the edge was b/c of gaming lag so share your impressions once you give the PJ a good Rodgering!)!
No worries at all and thanks for getting back! Yeah, that wallet put up a good fight, but I won in the end

Thanks for the info and I'll be sure to post back. This bad boy lands at work tom!
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post #20466 of 31985 Old 02-07-2017, 10:46 AM
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Greetings,

This is somewhat off-topic, but since a number of you have one of these devices I was hoping you could point me in the right direction: My HDfury Integral conked out last night. Is there a specific discussion forum or thread for that device? I have posted an e-mail to HDfury's support site, but I thought I'd see if there was any discussion here about that item.

?

Thanks.

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post #20467 of 31985 Old 02-07-2017, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by krichter1 View Post
Yur welcome for pushing you over the Immersive cliff (and to do your RH's right away)! As I stated earlier this has to be the most fun (and challenging), year I've ever had in HT.

Miss P as I reported earlier is one of my "go to" discs for calibrating/examining color & crush (great movie and may be one of the best "nearly 4K" titles I own!).

Wish I lived closer so I could check out those 18" monsters in your room (or maybe... its a blessing in disguise I do live too far!).
You do that and you will be owning two or four of them. I had been telling Jason to look at his audio side for years. It is a whole another world and brings a lot to the HT experience. Once you experience, you can never go back.
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post #20468 of 31985 Old 02-07-2017, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by swest View Post
Greetings,

This is somewhat off-topic, but since a number of you have one of these devices I was hoping you could point me in the right direction: My HDfury Integral conked out last night. Is there a specific discussion forum or thread for that device? I have posted an e-mail to HDfury's support site, but I thought I'd see if there was any discussion here about that item.

Thanks.

- s.west
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/37-vid...-integral.html

HDFury representatives monitor posts and answer.

CJ
JVC RS500|LG B7A OLED|Denon X6400H/X4200W|Panasonic UB820|Two Oppo 203|Samsung K8500|Apple TV 4K|HDfury Vertex/Linker/Integral
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post #20469 of 31985 Old 02-07-2017, 11:02 AM
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https://www.avsforum.com/forum/37-vid...-integral.html

HDFury representatives monitor posts and answer.
Perfect! Just what I was looking for. I failed to search the 'video processors' forum...

Thanks.

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post #20470 of 31985 Old 02-07-2017, 02:17 PM
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I think its great that many (myself included) in this thread are happy with what you have got equipment-wise and are settling in for the long haul.

Ive spent soooooo much in the past two years, i could do with a financial breather too !

I'm going to aim for 5 years with my X7000 (which btw costs 8k Euros here in Ireland ! )
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post #20471 of 31985 Old 02-07-2017, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by rrebello View Post
I am still waiting on the bugs to be worked out on the Oppo. Does anyone have an update on the 4K SDR BT2020 performance? Has there been another firmware upgrade? I would like to move forward with a purchase. Thanks
Not solved yet. The beta firmware in some people's hands doesn't solve it either but it shows progress over the current production firmware.

If you want to be sure it works in the way you want, you will want to wait on your purchase.
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post #20472 of 31985 Old 02-07-2017, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Garrett View Post
Yes, since you have an RS500, I can see your point. I am more referring to those that have a projector prior to RS400/500/600 series. For me, HDR is plug and play using Oppo 203 and RS4500 and looks pretty good.
Congrats on the RS4500, Mike. It must be amazing. I'm wondering whose outputs the better picture, yours or Craig's?
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post #20473 of 31985 Old 02-07-2017, 03:43 PM
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I asked earlier but did not get any responses. I am still undecided on if I should set output to 4K in the panny or leave it at auto when watching UHD bluray using Integral to strip HDR. If I set to 4K I get 4:4:4 12 bit color into the JVC. If I leave it at auto I get 4:2:0 (matching the bluray). Both are SDR/2020.

It seems to me 4:2:0 will be less of a strain on the processing? Also it matches the UHD chroma sampling? However in reading and looking at screen shots it seems many are forcing it to 4:4:4 so they must have output set to 4K in the panny. Is there a benefit to outputting 4:4:4 to the JVC over 4:2:0 from native 4:2:0 source material?

Or course I would want to upscale 1080p bluray but that is another deal.

Thanks
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post #20474 of 31985 Old 02-07-2017, 03:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
HDMI 2.1 will be implemented in hardware at the end of 2017, the specs are out and the first devices are expected by the end of the year. I will gradually replace my equipment, and won't replace anything that's not 2.1 compatible. It might take 1-2 years to upgrade the whole chain, but I don't want to buy something that won't support a format that does matter to me (especially re HDR10 with dynamic metadata and the increased bandwidth). If these aspects don't matter, for example if people are super happy with HDR10 the way it is now, or don't care about HDR at all, or if they only care about 24p content, or if they want to play with UHD/HDR/Atmos without waiting because they still have old gear, then of course buy now.

But I have a great rs500, an excellent X7200W and a Panny UB900 that allow me to play with HDR and get as much of it as I can. Why would I upgrade to get something that isn't better? When I see a model with a better HDR implementation (by this I don't mean a new factory preset with the same fixed approximate settings I can put manually in one of my user presets), with a DI or laser dimming enabled in HDR so I get decent fade to blacks, and no raised black floor in gamma D, for a price I can justify, then I'll be happy to upgrade. My rs500 is only 10 months old, nothing wrong living with it 1-2 more years until things settle down.

I don't mind putting more money to get better, but I want something for my money. So I'm waiting for JVC to actually improve their models, instead of shipping the same one with a f/w update and a low lag mode
Very well said, minor improvement are not worth it to try and keep up with all the changes is crazy manufacturers want us to upgrade every year

I had an RS35U for five years and just bought an RS600 last fall.

So I am not moving until JVC brings us for less than $10,000
- True 4K chips
- Laser
- HDMi 2.1 http://hdmiforum.org/wp-content/uplo...17_English.pdf
- HDR with Dynamic Metadata
- Dolby Vision https://www.dolby.com/us/en/brands/dolby-vision.html
https://www.dolby.com/us/en/technolo...hite-paper.pdf

and movies are coming!

"Dolby Vision is coming to the home in collaboration with Warner Bros. Home Entertainment, Sony Home Entertainment, Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer Studios, Universal Pictures Home Entertainment, and Lionsgate."

So probably an other five years but that's ok! Maybe by then 120" OLED will be at that price then we can ditch the projectors

Last edited by wse; 02-07-2017 at 04:04 PM.
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post #20475 of 31985 Old 02-07-2017, 04:07 PM
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I have a 520 but this thread is more active but is this normal for the iris to shown if the iris is clamped down. I caught something on the screen during a FTB and was wondering what it was. Put a piece of paper in front and found it looks to the iris then it's reflecting up top.


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post #20476 of 31985 Old 02-07-2017, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Aztar35 View Post
Congrats on the RS4500, Mike. It must be amazing. I'm wondering whose outputs the better picture, yours or Craig's?
Mine of course.
We will never know. Both of us do agree on one thing, best image we have seen in our rooms.
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post #20477 of 31985 Old 02-07-2017, 06:05 PM
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Mine of course.
We will never know. Both of us do agree on one thing, best image we have seen in our rooms.
From memory Mike (and Craig), would you say the 4500 is a big leap over the 500/600? Just curious your initial impression(s).

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post #20478 of 31985 Old 02-07-2017, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by krichter1 View Post
From memory Mike (and Craig), would you say the 4500 is a big leap over the 500/600? Just curious your initial impression(s).
I think so. I want to watch everything in 4K with HDR.
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post #20479 of 31985 Old 02-07-2017, 06:28 PM
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BREAKING NEWS:

User mkoper over at the Calman forums http://www.spectracal.com/forum/view...p=41495#p41495 has come up with a nice idea to be able to calibrate HDR on projectors, the problem being that there is no EOTF defined for projectors, so with a peak Y at 250nits at best, the charts are not useable to do any meaningful corrections.

The idea is to use the matrix (meter profile) to multiply all the values by the same multiplier in a diagonal line in the matrix (intersection of X/X, Y/Y and Z/Z), so that you can actually use the charts to make some corrections. I found that a multiplier of 4 worked best in my setup (210nits peak became 840nits).

So I used a multiplier of 4 and I was able to do a very nice correction to my Gamma D preset.

On my tiny screen which still gets 210nits with high lamp / iris full open, I ended up quite far from the JVC defaults: PT=7, DG=4 or 5, BG=2.

In this lamp/iris setting, Dark Gamma raises the black floor above 4 with a 0% pattern, 5 with content (seems higher than when I tested with low lamp iris -9). Brightness above 1 (HDMI standard).

The result is very, very nice. This doesn't help with the raised black floor or the lack of DI, but the HDR picture was better than usual with close to the JVC defaults. I only gave it a quick try as I had a limited amount of time, but it's an encouraging development for those who would like a better calibrated HDR mode.

I need to run some content, but I advise those who have some calibration gear to try it. It's easy and it's a decent workaround.

Of course you need to select BT2020 and ST2084 PQ Gamma as targets, and you need an EOTF graph (not a gamma log/log).

I don't want to hijack the thread as most people don't care about this low level calibration stuff, but I thought I'd give the info to those who do.

PS: these results are NOT translatable as they are set-up dependant. You need a meter and a software to reproduce this and adapt it to your set-up.

If you have any question, feel free to post in the Calman thread linked above if you have Calman, or in the forum/thread of your favourite software if you don't have Calman.

Last edited by Manni01; 02-08-2017 at 01:30 AM.
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post #20480 of 31985 Old 02-07-2017, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by kaotikr1 View Post
I have a 520 but this thread is more active but is this normal for the iris to shown if the iris is clamped down. I caught something on the screen during a FTB and was wondering what it was. Put a piece of paper in front and found it looks to the iris then it's reflecting up top.

i am not sure what you are trying to show...what I see are bright corners and some internal reflections, which look normal for JVC projectors...
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post #20481 of 31985 Old 02-07-2017, 07:23 PM
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i am not sure what you are trying to show...what I see are bright corners and some internal reflections, which look normal for JVC projectors...


That diamond shape on the screen. It looks like the shape of the iris. Just have never seen it before and have never seen one on my 500. Now I did move my 520 back a few feet so maybe it's just dim enough on a FTB to show.

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post #20482 of 31985 Old 02-07-2017, 07:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
BREAKING NEWS:

User mkoper over at the Calman forums http://www.spectracal.com/forum/view...p=41495#p41495 has come up with a nice idea to be able to calibrate HDR on projectors, the problem being that there is no EOTF defined for projectors, so with a peak Y at 250nits at best, the charts are not useable to do any meaningful corrections.

The idea is to use the matrix (meter profile) to multiply all the values by the same multiplier in a diagonal line in the matrix (intersection of X/X, Y/Y and Z/Z), so that you can actually use the charts to make some corrections. I found that a multiplier of 4 worked best in my setup (210nits peak became 840nits).

So I used a multiplier of 4 and I was able to do a very nice correction to my Gamma D preset.
...
Manni01,

Check out the method of tone mapping recommended in BT.2390 for HDR.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...,d.eWE&cad=rja

Here is a plot of the transfer function suggested in BT.2390 with maxLUM (peak display capability) set to 100 NITs.


Last edited by rak306; 02-07-2017 at 07:30 PM. Reason: change link to rev 1 vs rev 0 of BT.2390
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post #20483 of 31985 Old 02-07-2017, 10:25 PM
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I decided to give the Strip Metadata a try tonight, selecting Star Trek Beyond. I need to first state that I'm using firmware 0122B which is not out yet, but was supplied on request to help the Oppo with 3D issues. I also asked if they needed any more Beta testers particularly for the Strip function, but was told that they do not. I previously reported in this thread that an HDR slider function is available in this release, but I'm not sure if it really works or not. I erroneously indicated that the slider default to 300 nits with 100 nit increments to 1200. The default is 300 and it does go by 100 nit increments, but the max is 1600. Also, it decreases from 300 by 50 nit increments down to 100 and by 25 from there down to 50 minimum.

I set it to 100 nits, but noticed that when I switched back later, it was at 300. I have no idea if it works or does anything at this time. I gave up watching ST:B after about an hour with Strip Metadata because I still could not get it to look right in dark scenes no matter what I tried. I switched to HDR with some minor Oppo BR/CR adjustments to my typical settings for BT.2020 HDR and enjoyed the rest of the movie. I'm actually very happy with the picture that the JVC and Oppo produce for most titles in HDR, even this darker title. I see plenty of shadow detail and don't find the blacks to be objectionable. Heck, I don't even miss the DI and f2b much either. I'll continue to use the Oppo in this fashion until someone reports that it looks like the Panny/HD fury combo. At that point, I'll give it a look again, but may just stick with using HDR since that's what's on the disc.

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post #20484 of 31985 Old 02-08-2017, 01:24 AM
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Originally Posted by rak306 View Post
Manni01,

Check out the method of tone mapping recommended in BT.2390 for HDR.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...,d.eWE&cad=rja

Here is a plot of the transfer function suggested in BT.2390 with maxLUM (peak display capability) set to 100 NITs.



It is more or less what I ended up with, but there is not enough granularity in the internal controls to shape any specific curve, and I don't have the time (or the inclination) to shape a curve using the software controls. Also my Ypeak in my test isn't 100nits but 210nits.

I'm following a straight output (4:1) until 60% (240nits content, 60nits real although I was slightly above that at 68nits real) then I roll-off from 60% until my clipping point near 80% (around 1500nits content, 210nits real, so more around 8:1 by that time) with contrast at +10 in the JVC and -1 in the Panny. I was trying with this calibration to have quite a sharp roll off with my bright gamma at +2, I might try to raise it a bit to get a gentler roll-off, something between 3 and 4. I might also try to clip content closer to 1200nits (6:1) than 1500nits (8:1).

I'm slightly darker than I should in the low end because I don't want to push dark gamma above 4 or 5, as the hit on the black floor starts to be seen above 5 with content (above 4 with a 0% pattern). However it doesn't prevent from getting a stunning picture, much better than any HDR picture I managed to get until now following more or less the JVC recommendations (only lowering DG to prevent raising the black floor but used everything else as they said, slightly lowering bright gamma to +10 to take my small screen into account, but that wasn't enough).

This test just illustrates that the JVC recommendation for Gamma D are 1) approximate and should be adapted to the set-up and 2) really need an adjustment on the JVC contrast in order not to 1) not leave a lot of brightness on the table and 2) have to adjust settings depending on the way the content was mastered (not only to 1000, 1100 or 4000nits as reported by the metadata, but also to the actual peak of the content, as few go up to 4000nits, most peak around 1000-1500nits max, exceptionally up to 2500nits).

So clipping content around 1200-1500nits, you don't lose much data even for titles reporting having been mastered to 4000nits, but you get a much more consistent brightness between titles, which means you don't have to adjust things all the time. This was a quick "proof of concept" test, I need to fine tune now that I can see the effect of the settings on the curve quite precisely, I'm sure this can be improved. It sure is nice not to be flying blind with HDR anymore!

I watched briefly the beginning and the ending of The Shallows to see how it did with very bright and very dark content, and it did very well. Raised black floor vs SDR of course, but nice dynamic range. The black floor was only an issue to me during fade to black, otherwise I had around 45,000:1 native on/off with the iris fully open, max ANSI and a very impressive picture overall. I'll give a try to a few HDR titles I've already watched in SDR BT2020 when I have more time.
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post #20485 of 31985 Old 02-08-2017, 01:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
It is more or less what I ended up with, but there is not enough granularity in the internal controls to shape any specific curve, and I don't have the time (or the inclination) to shape a curve using the software controls. Also my Ypeak in my test isn't 100nits but 210nits.
...
Below is the curve following BT.2390 for a 210 NIT Ypeak. But it is not 1:4 . (for example, at 100 NIT input it is 77 NIT output)

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anyone looking forward to this

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Below is the curve following BT.2390 for a 210 NIT Ypeak. But it is not 1:4 . (for example, at 100 NIT input it is 77 NIT output)



Thanks but 1:4 isn't the actual ratio for the actual curve/EOTF, it's the ratio for displaying the chart (which uses a x4 multiplier in my initial test).

We need to "cheat" the software to think it's seeing higher readings, so that it can display a meaningful curve that we can then adjust.

So the multiplier is 4 in my first attempt, hence the ratio used to display the measurements is 1:4 (210nits actual measurement will display as 840nits), but the actual ratio up to 60%, as explained, is 1:1. For example, the target at 60% is 240nits, and I will display 240nits. After that, the display ratio is still 1:4, but the actual ratio isn't 1:1 because of the roll-off up to the clipping point.

Next time I plan to use a multiplier of 6 (1:5 ratio to display the charts) so that my peak white =- my clipping point, around 1200nits as plotted on the chart, ie 210nits actual read x 6 = 1240 displayed on the chart).

It looks like they are rolling off earlier if 100nits outputs as 77nits for a 210nits peak white. I prefer starting the roll-off later, at 240nits. In any case I don't really see the point of starting to roll-off before 100nits, as it should be linear (1:1) at least until that point. At least that's my understanding of it.

I'm starting to wonder if it's a good idea to set the clipping point using the contrast setting in the JVC. I'll try using the bright gamma setting and the player's contrast setting next time and see if I get better results. I'll report back later when I've done more tests.

How do you generate this chart? Would you have a table with the actual values (nits in / nits out) for 210nits peak? Ideally for 21 (or even better, 33) points.


I'll try to approximate it and if I like the results I might try to play with the gamma controls in the Autocal to generate a gamma curve as close to it as possible. Not that I'm looking forward to this....
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Question 0122B Beta FW necessary for 3D on 203?

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Originally Posted by stevenjw View Post
I decided to give the Strip Metadata a try tonight, selecting Star Trek Beyond. I need to first state that I'm using firmware 0122B which is not out yet, but was supplied on request to help the Oppo with 3D issues. I also asked if they needed any more Beta testers particularly for the Strip function, but was told that they do not. I previously reported in this thread that an HDR slider function is available in this release, but I'm not sure if it really works or not. I erroneously indicated that the slider default to 300 nits with 100 nit increments to 1200. The default is 300 and it does go by 100 nit increments, but the max is 1600. Also, it decreases from 300 by 50 nit increments down to 100 and by 25 from there down to 50 minimum.

I set it to 100 nits, but noticed that when I switched back later, it was at 300. I have no idea if it works or does anything at this time. I gave up watching ST:B after about an hour with Strip Metadata because I still could not get it to look right in dark scenes no matter what I tried. I switched to HDR with some minor Oppo BR/CR adjustments to my typical settings for BT.2020 HDR and enjoyed the rest of the movie. I'm actually very happy with the picture that the JVC and Oppo produce for most titles in HDR, even this darker title. I see plenty of shadow detail and don't find the blacks to be objectionable. Heck, I don't even miss the DI and f2b much either. I'll continue to use the Oppo in this fashion until someone reports that it looks like the Panny/HD fury combo. At that point, I'll give it a look again, but may just stick with using HDR since that's what's on the disc.
I have never used 3D before.
Should I get the not fully released 0122B Beta FW from Oppo before trying it out?
3D Emitter and glasses are being delivered today.

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HT: Oppo UDP-203 -> Lumagen RadiancePro 4446 {18 GHz input x2 & 18 GHz output x1 cards} - "new (112818 FW)" 18 GHz microcode - parallel outs to --> [Audio: Denon 5308CI] --> [Video: JVC RS520 FW v30.1]
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
Thanks but 1:4 isn't the actual ratio for the actual curve/EOTF, it's the ratio for displaying the chart (which uses a x4 multiplier in my initial test).

We need to "cheat" the software to think it's seeing higher readings, so that it can display a meaningful curve that we can then adjust.

So the multiplier is 4 in my first attempt, hence the ratio used to display the measurements is 1:4 (210nits actual measurement will display as 840nits), but the actual ratio up to 60%, as explained, is 1:1. For example, the target at 60% is 240nits, and I will display 240nits. After that, the display ratio is still 1:4, but the actual ratio isn't 1:1 because of the roll-off up to the clipping point.

Next time I plan to use a multiplier of 6 (1:5 ratio to display the charts) so that my peak white =- my clipping point, around 1200nits as plotted on the chart, ie 210nits actual read x 6 = 1240 displayed on the chart).

It looks like they are rolling off earlier if 100nits outputs as 77nits for a 210nits peak white. I prefer starting the roll-off later, at 240nits. In any case I don't really see the point of starting to roll-off before 100nits, as it should be linear (1:1) at least until that point. At least that's my understanding of it.

I'm starting to wonder if it's a good idea to set the clipping point using the contrast setting in the JVC. I'll try using the bright gamma setting and the player's contrast setting next time and see if I get better results. I'll report back later when I've done more tests.

How do you generate this chart? Would you have a table with the actual values (nits in / nits out) for 210nits peak? Ideally for 21 (or even better, 33) points.


I'll try to approximate it and if I like the results I might try to play with the gamma controls in the Autocal to generate a gamma curve as close to it as possible. Not that I'm looking forward to this....
My gawd I wish I understood this "stuff"!!!!! Great work guys but I sense it's impossible to translate into "default settings" for hdr much the way Javs and yourself and others have put forward "default settings" for SDR bt2020...

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post #20490 of 31985 Old 02-08-2017, 04:28 AM
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My gawd I wish I understood this "stuff"!!!!! Great work guys but I sense it's impossible to translate into "default settings" for hdr much the way Javs and yourself and others have put forward "default settings" for SDR bt2020...


Yes that's why I didn't really want to have a discussion in this thread as most users won't be able to do much with this, I only wanted to flag this so that those who might act on this are aware of this workaround.


I'll try to post a bit more info when I've done a second test, maybe today. I'll also try to post a graph to better explain what's happening. But without meter/software, there isn't much you can use directly unless you have the exact same setup I have. Dave Vaughn, for example, might be able to use my settings, or very close to them, because we have very similar set-up (I think his screen is 92" diag and fairly neutral/close to nominal gain, but I might be wrong). Anyone with a larger screen needs to do a specific calibration. That's the problem with the implementation of Gamma D on the JVCs, it cannot be accurate because ST2084 uses absolute targets, not relative ones like power gamma. Everything is related to Ypeak, where you decide to clip content and how you want to roll off before you clip.
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