Originally Posted by fingersdlp
I have the 520 and to answer my own question from earlier in this thread I had no issue loading these custom gammas (I did use the JVC software for the new models). I tested a variety and I can see the benefit potential over the HDR even in my model (I find the highlights overcooked still). Here is my feedback for what its worth.
I have a 119" 16:9 Firehawk G3 in a semi-batcave - I do have some flat dark grey (not black) paint on the walls but the front screen wall is all black fabric. 18 feet throw.
The 200-400-4000 looked very good in my setup and I found I liked it best in low lamp mode even though it was not designed for that in your setup - with my iris dialed down similar to my normal non HDR viewing. The colors are a bit under saturated as expected but it is still very nice and would be good viewing but for the BT2020 STR thru the Integral that I still prefer I think. I find the BT2020 STR still overcooks the highlights but the higher color saturation makes it a bit preferred. If you ever get bored I suspect something around 200-600-4000 or 200-700-4000 would be my ticket in low lamp. Although I am not sure about that first number - seems maybe 140-600-4000 for low lamp? Sorry I will have to read and experiment more to even guess at that.
Of the others I tried the 140-1000-4000 I liked as well but again in a different lamp mode - High lamp for me. My preference for low lamp would probably have me choose your 200-400-4000 if I had only one to choose. I did not really do much brightness/contrast calibration just used my two presets already in the panny. I did dial up the color saturation to +4 for the 200-400-4000. I could impove those basic settings I am sure. They looked very good just keeping my standard settings in the panny.
Thanks for posting those. I may have to get a Spider 5 and see if I can figure out how to dial one in for my setup - my brain hurts just thinking about it.
Thanks for your feedback.
As explained a few times, the first number is only for reference, so people know (including myself) how I generated the curve. But it scales very well as these are relative S-shaped curves, not absolute PQ curves. For example, I use at the moment my 140-1100-4000 in high lamp and in low lamp, it works great. It might be marginally more accurate if you use it in a mode similar to the mode it's been created, but it's the second number (target) which is the most important, and the last one (roll-off or not).
The 200-400-4000 is a super bright curve, very undersaturated. The 200-1200-4000 is the darkest curve, with the most saturation. I find 1000 or 1100nits works best in my setup, as it gives me plenty of brightness with good saturation.
So my suggestion is to ignore the first number (reference), and select the LUT with the highest second number (target), with a roll-off (4000) or clipping at 1100/1000 (last number.
Yes for most people with a large screen / low gain a 600, 700, 800, 900 would be great, but everyone can use the method to make the right one for them (resetting contrast and brightness in the player and in the JVC, maybe keeping +1 on brightness in the JVC to help a bit). Or ask someone to make one for them.
I won't get bored, I spent a week on this and I'm late with my work
Originally Posted by claw
I have settled on +7.
Just FYI it's Gamma D that's oversaturated, not the custom curves that are undersaturated (assuming after an autocal of the custom BT.2020 profile). It takes a while to get used to, because we have Gamma D reference for HDR now, but I now use color set to 0. I get plenty of colors when they are meant to be there, but it's not overcooked like Gamma D is.
It's fine to raise color to emulate gamma D, but I suggest to try with color set to zero for a while and see what you think. I double checked with Mad Max, and raising color even a little really overcooks everything.
This might be because I use a 1100-4000 version though, if you use a 1000 or worse the 400 curve, then you probably need to use color a bit. My last 140-1100-4000V2 measures very close to reference in P3 inside BT2020, at least here. Gamma D is significantly oversaturated.
Originally Posted by stanger89
Well, I gave it a shot. It was "quick" and dirty, but I'm pretty pleased. I generally followed Manni's process, except for a few tweaks we were discussing earlier, namely I used a 2x multiplier to keep "MTO" content in the range we want. I cranked my RS600 wide open, high lamp, managed to get about 125nits.
You could have chosen a scene with more colors, and more highlights, I wonder why you have chosen a near black and white scene with a couple of taillights
As far as I can see on an SDR-Rec709 screen (i.e. not much), it's similar to what I get with my 200-400-4000. Undersaturated (compared to SDR-BT2020) and with very compressed highlights. I guess it's better than nothing with sources that can only send HDR and not SDR BT2020, but otherwise I don't see the point of watching HDR like this.
I suggest you display a scene from a title mastered to 4000nits that looks fantastic in HDR, for example The Shallows when she is on her rock in daylight and we see her hair, face, blood, the sea, the sky, and you will see better how undersaturated a 2X curve is, and how much it compresses the highlights.
My Discus trained to an i1pro2 makes zero difference to your i1display pro as color isn't involved (much) when working on white gamma. The only difference is that the i1d3 can't do a BT1886 curve, otherwise your can use about any reasonably accurate meter to do that, it's only luminance reading that counts and reading black (which the i1d3 is poor at) doesn't matter. The i1d3 is a perfect tool for the task.
With a peakY of 125nits you should try aiming for a 4X or 6X multiplier, you would get SIGNIFICANTLY better results. Try targeting 500nits, 600nits and 700nits. You will get more saturation, better highlights, and you will make lots of people happy if you share them, these are the curves people with a large screen/low gain, including yourself, are waiting for
I suspect you will prefer the 600 or 700nits one, even the 800nits one as you won't have any problem with brightness with these (your 125nits in high lamp isn't far from the 140nits I get in low lamp) but you will get a lot of saturation back.
But of course, that would mean I was right