Official JVC RS600 / RS500 (X950R / X750R - X9000 / X7000) Owners Thread - Page 697 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #20881 of 31899 Old 02-15-2017, 10:56 AM
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Those new gamma curves look awesome, to say the least, and I cannot wait to try them.

For a technically challenged JVC RS500 owner (me) who just recently bought the new Oppo UDP-203, could someone explain me how to adjust brightness and contrast for HDR with those new curves?

I did autocalibrate my RS500, I have imported and also autocalibrated the BT2020 color profile. I also have access to Chromapure and an EyeOne.

Most of the recent posts I read take about the Panasonic player, so those settings do not apply in my case. Also, I know most of you find that +1 or +2 for brightness on the JVC is the best setting (at least, it used to be for SDR), but in my case, brightness at +8 allows me to barely see bar 18, without any visually or measured increase of the black floor (do not ask me why, I really do not know...)

So, how should I adjust brightness and contrast with my setup, using the Oppo and the JVC? do people leave the Oppo at baseline and do it all in the JVC?

I have downloaded the Masciola's HDR patterns. From what I understand, I have to increase the contrast on the JVC until I clip at the right level. What level should I aim for? does it depend on the custom curve I use? should I simply aim for 4000?

For brightness, it looks easier: I believe I have to increase the brightness in the JVC settings until bars 17 or 18, without increasing the PJs black floor. This is exactly the same as in SDR, right? Should I change anything in the Oppo concerning brightness?

The question must seem simple for many of you, but since I do not own the Panasonic and since my JVC seems to require an unusual brightness level for SDR, I believe most of the suggested settings must not be the best ones in my case.

So, please, Oppo and JVC users, how do you adjust those brightness and constast settings to get the best result?

Last edited by stef2; 02-15-2017 at 11:01 AM.
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post #20882 of 31899 Old 02-15-2017, 10:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DVD MAN View Post

Before starting the JVC Auto cal with the Spyder 5 do I keep the D gamaa on the PJ with my settings of PT-12 DL-2 BL-2?
Little help please.
For HDR:

When you run the autocal, you will have to select gamma+color (33 step) with the "Reference" color profile and a normal gamma. Once that is done you will then have to do a color only autocal with the BT2020 profile. By doing the initial color/gamma autocal, all gammas are calibrated, including gamma D. You just have to manually select gamma D once and input the values for PT, DL and BL you wish. However, if you are using one of Manni's custom gammas, I wouldn't worry too much about those PT, DL, BL values.
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post #20883 of 31899 Old 02-15-2017, 11:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kris Deering View Post
For those talking about the "undersaturated" colors, remember that the colors were already oversaturated with the previous HDR settings. When you go to a cinema the last thing you are seeing is over saturated cartoon colors. They should look very balanced. I loaded one of Manni's curves last night and did a full calibration in Calman and it is showing the colors being right about where they should be. I just think people got used to looking at colors that were dialed too high, which is one of the reasons I didn't care for HDR before and actually preferred turning it off for 709 colors that looked more natural.

I watched Arrival on UHD last night. Overall the image was about what I expected having seen it twice in theaters. It is a bit darker than I would have preferred, almost murky, but in line with what I remembered from the movie theaters. Since black levels in theaters are always pretty crappy I think it was a bit elevated there, where at home blacks look much darker and therefore the movie looks darker as well. I will look at the standard Blu-ray tonight to see how it fares. I was disappointed that they didn't include an immersive track on this (I think this should be standard on all UHD titles) but the DTS mix was fantastic.
I agree re the undersaturation, this is what I posted yesterday here quoting Claw: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-dig...l#post50770561

However, while a 1000-1200nits probably looks right, people targeting lower curves (700-800nits) might find them more undersaturated, as the brighter the curve, the less saturated it becomes. The 200-400-4000 curve I did illustrates this quite clearly. More brightness, less saturation as the target goes down. At least that's what I notice here and on Stranger's screenshots.

Quote:
Originally Posted by stanger89 View Post
When I was flipping back and forth between HDR and SDR+2020, I didn't notice any difference in colors on my RS600. That said, I basically agree on the no point, the black level is just raised so high when trying to make HDR work, vs SDR+2020. However, like I said above, this is really the first time I've run HDR on my projector and not been totally disgusted by the "blacks".
None of the gamma curves raise the black levels. The problem is with gamma D and the dark gamma control. Your curve is no different from mine, we would have saved a lot of time if you had tried one of mine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by stanger89 View Post
I was thinking the i1d3 was not great down low, I know with my normal (SDR) config, my screen is too dark at black to even register on my i1d3.
The i1d3 isn't good enough to read 5% white facing the screen when targeting 50nits in SDR. It's good enough to do that targeting 125nits in HDR.

It's not good at reading black, but again as explained earlier you only need that to work on a BT1886 or slider power gamma curve, you don't need this to work on a PQ gamma curve.

Quote:
Originally Posted by stanger89 View Post
I'll probably just try one of yours at that rate, I want to see what the perceptual difference is between 2x and 4 or 6x multiplier. It sounds like a lot, but then again our perception of brightness is logarithmic, so maybe it doesn't really look darker. What I do know is that when I used the "white clipping target divided by measured Ymax" method, I ended up with an HDR picture that was way, way too dark.
I really have no idea why you still haven't tried any of my curves. I don't understand why you didn't even bother to try the one I made for you (200-400-4000), before you did yours, which exactly the same.

Your multiplier was wrong because you chose a too high target (likely 1000-1200nits) for your actual peakY (125nits). If you had chosen, as I suggested, a lower target of 500-800nits, you would have ended up with a much lower multiplier, which would have given you much better results without desaturating the picture the way you do with a 200-400-4000nits curve.

This being said, if you can't see in your screenshots or in real life that the HDR picture is undersaturated compared to the SDR BT2020 picture, it doesn't really matter and you are a lucky man. When I look at the tail lights, the bridge, the lights on the cop car, I see a very significant desaturation in your HDR screenshot vs the SDR Bt2020 one. This is the way it looks here if I use my 200-400-4000 curve (Same as yours) vs both SDR-BT2020 or a curve with a higher multiplier, such as my 140-1100-4000V2.
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post #20884 of 31899 Old 02-15-2017, 11:18 AM
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Manni01's 140 1100 4000 curve is very similar to PT12, but much more well behaved. Slight Red Desat. See attached. Nice job!



Pic1. 140 1100 4000 similar to PT12 ... GammaD(12,2,5) CR+10 BR+6
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post #20885 of 31899 Old 02-15-2017, 11:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stef2 View Post
Those new gamma curves look awesome, to say the least, and I cannot wait to try them.

For a technically challenged JVC RS500 owner (me) who just recently bought the new Oppo UDP-203, could someone explain me how to adjust brightness and contrast for HDR with those new curves?

I did autocalibrate my RS500, I have imported and also autocalibrated the BT2020 color profile. I also have access to Chromapure and an EyeOne.

Most of the recent posts I read take about the Panasonic player, so those settings do not apply in my case. Also, I know most of you find that +1 or +2 for brightness on the JVC is the best setting (at least, it used to be for SDR), but in my case, brightness at +8 allows me to barely see bar 18, without any visually or measured increase of the black floor (do not ask me why, I really do not know...)

So, how should I adjust brightness and contrast with my setup, using the Oppo and the JVC? do people leave the Oppo at baseline and do it all in the JVC?

I have downloaded the Masciola's HDR patterns. From what I understand, I have to increase the contrast on the JVC until I clip at the right level. What level should I aim for? does it depend on the custom curve I use? should I simply aim for 4000?

For brightness, it looks easier: I believe I have to increase the brightness in the JVC settings until bars 17 or 18, without increasing the PJs black floor. This is exactly the same as in SDR, right? Should I change anything in the Oppo concerning brightness?

The question must seem simple for many of you, but since I do not own the Panasonic and since my JVC seems to require an unusual brightness level for SDR, I believe most of the suggested settings must not be the best ones in my case.

So, please, Oppo and JVC users, how do you adjust those brightness and constast settings to get the best result?
Hi Stef,

I have both the OPPO and the Panasonic. A few posts up, Manni suggested that we should make the BR and CR adjustments in the player. That said, I have tested the clip points with Masciola patterns in both HDR BT2020 and SDR BT2020 using the OPPO and with contrast and brightness at default in the JVC, the OPPO resolves bar 68 or .5% black at +7 brightness. Any higher, and the OPPO resolves below black which would be undesirable. As for contrast settings, I just put up Masciola's white clipping pattern while in one of Manni's custom gamma and adjust contrast in the player until I clip just above 1,000 nits ( which I think is -1 in the OPPO). Looks spectacular.
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post #20886 of 31899 Old 02-15-2017, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DVD MAN View Post
Before starting the JVC Auto cal with the Spyder 5 do I keep the D gamaa on the PJ with my settings of PT-12 DL-2 BL-2?
Little help please.
Just follow the auto cal instructions in that thread.

Then when you're done, and want to make your own curve (this is what I did):
  • Fire up Calman and JVC Autocal
  • In the JVC autocal pick the gamma option, then pick a custom gamma and natural.
  • On the JVC, pick the user mode you plan to use for HDR, pick the custom gamma you chose in the Autocal software, and choose IMPORT as the correction.
  • I'd go through each level then, and adjust the output value so they're "in the ballpark" of one of Manni's custom gammas (just use the mouse to drag the slider until it's close).
    • this will save you a lot of time later, since every click, or every time you let go of the mouse, there's about a 15-20 second wait for it to update the projector.
  • In Calman, choose the HDR10 workflow, I just skipped directly to the gamma portion. You'll want to enter your choice of multiplier in the Screen offset (workflow advanced IIRC).
  • I'd run a measurement sequence first, so you know where you stand
  • Then basically go through one level at a time, tweaking the JVC Autocal software up/down as necessary for that input level until you're right on the money as far as Y value, right on the line.
  • If you follow the Calman target exactly, you'll end up hard clipping at some point, so you'll want to reduce those output levels a bit so there's a smooth-ish transition.
  • When you get out to about 90%, IIRC that's about 4000 nits, and you'll definitely want to max out the output level (1023) there so you're not wasting brightness where there's no content.
Let us know what you come up with

Oh, specifically regarding Gamma D, it's irrelevant, you're creating an entirely new gamma profile that has nothing to do with the JVC's built in D, it's completely independent.
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post #20887 of 31899 Old 02-15-2017, 11:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atabea View Post
Hi Stef,

I have both the OPPO and the Panasonic. A few posts up, Manni suggested that we should make the BR and CR adjustments in the player. That said, I have tested the clip points with Masciola patterns in both HDR BT2020 and SDR BT2020 using the OPPO and with contrast and brightness at default in the JVC, the OPPO resolves bar 68 or .5% black at +7 brightness. Any higher, and the OPPO resolves below black which would be undesirable. As for contrast settings, I just put up Masciola's white clipping pattern while in one of Manni's custom gamma and adjust contrast in the player until I clip just above 1,000 nits ( which I think is -1 in the OPPO). Looks spectacular.
I am assuming you're using a curve clipping at 1000. Otherwise adjusting contrast in the player from a 4000nits (with roll off) isn't advised.

You should try one with the roll-off though (curves ending with 4000) if you haven't already done so, because there is no clipping of the highlights when playing a 4000nits title and the penalty on brightness is minimal, as explained. It's only very minimal and exclusively in the 800-1000nits area.

Before these curves, we had to clip below 4000nits because we needed more brightness. With these curves, we can have our cake and eat it: have the overall brightness AND not clip details in the highlights, thanks to the roll-off at the very top of the curve.

In fact, I have stopped switching between curves, I'm only using the 140-1100-4000V2, even with 1000nits titles. I find it looks more natural, even with titles mastered to 1000-1100nits.

Of course YMMV, you might need the brightness more than I do
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Last edited by Manni01; 02-15-2017 at 11:35 AM.
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post #20888 of 31899 Old 02-15-2017, 11:39 AM
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Hope people won't mind if I ask two quick questions.
1 - What does exactly Dynamic Contrast control under MPC do? I understand that most use it on 2 or 3 and some don't at all. But what exactly does it do?
2 - I"ll be having Chad to calibrate my projector. The bulb as of now has 1000 hours and with current brightness, I use Iris at -6 in Low. Do you guys think that I should get a new bulb before he comes?
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post #20889 of 31899 Old 02-15-2017, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
I am assuming you're using a curve clipping at 1000. Otherwise adjusting contrast in the player from a 4000nits (with roll off) isn't advised.

You should try one with the roll-off though (curves ending with 4000) if you haven't already done so, because there is no clipping of the highlights when playing a 4000nits title and the penalty on brightness is minimal, as explained. It's only very minimal and exclusively in the 800-1000nits area.

Before these curves, we had to clip below 4000nits because we needed more brightness. With these curves, we can have our cake and eat it: have the overall brightness AND not clip details in the highlights, thanks to the roll-off at the very top of the curve.

In fact, I have stopped switching between curves, I'm only using the 140-1100-4000V2, even with 1000nits titles. I find it looks more natural, even with titles mastered to 1000-1100nits.

Of course YMMV, you might need the brightness more than I do
If I understand correctly, to preserve as much brightness as possible,
I leave JVC contrast at 0 and I adjust the contrast in the oppo to clip just above 1000 (or 4000, the last number from the curve's name), and if I do not mind losing a bit of brightness, I adjust contrast in the Oppo to clip slightly above 4000 and leave it there no matter what custom gamme curve I use?
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post #20890 of 31899 Old 02-15-2017, 12:00 PM
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Any one interested to do calibration and teach at the same time that way I can learn from an expert?
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post #20891 of 31899 Old 02-15-2017, 12:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
yes zero in the PJ to the exception of brightness to +1 (anything above that raises the black floor).

Raising brightness in the player can raise the black floor too, but it allows you to resolve more levels before it does.

Contrast should be adjusted in the player as well, but only if really necessary. And never raise contrast to clip lower in a 4000 curve, select a 1000 or a 1100 one instead.

By the way, this is based on the Panny, I don't have the Oppo.
Sounds like you're saying that it's better to do any adjustments in the player, I'm curious as to why if one is not raising black floor? Due to JVC syncing delays and gamma switching, I find it much easier to use my HTPC for dialing in the settings in the JVC and leaving the Oppo alone. I also have an XBox One S, so I prefer the settings in the projector verse in each source. At some point, I expect that HDR in the HTPC will also be available for at least some games (if it's not already).

I'll have to confirm that anything above BR +1 raises the black floor in HDR BT.2020 using the Hide function in my setup. Right now, I'm setting it to around +16 with your latest (v2) 140-1100-4000 curve which I like a lot. I'm at around +7 with the 200-400-4000 curve, but haven't tried that one in low lamp yet. My Iris -5 for all settings and lamp High with HDR. I'm guessing that a 125-750-4000 would be the best curve for my setup/screen, but can live with the 140-1100-4000 for now since I'm pretty lazy and busy watching stuff.

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post #20892 of 31899 Old 02-15-2017, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by wse View Post
Any one interested to do calibration and teach at the same time that way I can learn from an expert?
I created a thread for the same reason. Didn't get any offer . I hope someone can reach out to you so that I can have the same person reach out to me.
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post #20893 of 31899 Old 02-15-2017, 12:21 PM
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@Manni01

Sorry Havant been following this, but keen to try this with my X9500...where can i find the '140-1100-4000V2" you refer to? Thanks..

So, i just import the Gamma curve using the JVC Autocal software ???


My screen is 143" scope 1.26 gain , 20ft Throw . In high lamp iris wide open i have 31.5ftl peak white max.

Thanks again.
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post #20894 of 31899 Old 02-15-2017, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post
Kris when you have a chance during evaluation of the 620, can you please provide feedback on the 600's Gamma D vs. the 620 version? is it considerably better than the 2016 version and if so, how far does it still deviate from the excellent curves that Manni has come up with?

Do you still have a 2016 model in your HT? thx!
Will do. I know the dark level adjustment still raises black, but not right away and it didn't seem to be by a lot like last time. I don't have the 2016 model though, my zoom ring broke so they swapped it with the new model.
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post #20895 of 31899 Old 02-15-2017, 12:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stanger89 View Post
Just follow the auto cal instructions in that thread.

Then when you're done, and want to make your own curve (this is what I did):
  • Fire up Calman and JVC Autocal
  • In the JVC autocal pick the gamma option, then pick a custom gamma and natural.
  • On the JVC, pick the user mode you plan to use for HDR, pick the custom gamma you chose in the Autocal software, and choose IMPORT as the correction.
  • I'd go through each level then, and adjust the output value so they're "in the ballpark" of one of Manni's custom gammas (just use the mouse to drag the slider until it's close).
    • this will save you a lot of time later, since every click, or every time you let go of the mouse, there's about a 15-20 second wait for it to update the projector.
  • In Calman, choose the HDR10 workflow, I just skipped directly to the gamma portion. You'll want to enter your choice of multiplier in the Screen offset (workflow advanced IIRC).
  • I'd run a measurement sequence first, so you know where you stand
  • Then basically go through one level at a time, tweaking the JVC Autocal software up/down as necessary for that input level until you're right on the money as far as Y value, right on the line.
  • If you follow the Calman target exactly, you'll end up hard clipping at some point, so you'll want to reduce those output levels a bit so there's a smooth-ish transition.
  • When you get out to about 90%, IIRC that's about 4000 nits, and you'll definitely want to max out the output level (1023) there so you're not wasting brightness where there's no content.
Let us know what you come up with

Oh, specifically regarding Gamma D, it's irrelevant, you're creating an entirely new gamma profile that has nothing to do with the JVC's built in D, it's completely independent.
Perfect!!


Thank YOU
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post #20896 of 31899 Old 02-15-2017, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by harrisu View Post
Hope people won't mind if I ask two quick questions.
1 - What does exactly Dynamic Contrast control under MPC do? I understand that most use it on 2 or 3 and some don't at all. But what exactly does it do?
2 - I"ll be having Chad to calibrate my projector. The bulb as of now has 1000 hours and with current brightness, I use Iris at -6 in Low. Do you guys think that I should get a new bulb before he comes?
2. When is Chad coming? The reason I ask is because you don't want to calibrate a brand new bulb. If you can put at least 100-150 hours on it then fine.
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post #20897 of 31899 Old 02-15-2017, 12:59 PM
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Exclamation

Quote:
Originally Posted by nathan_h View Post
If you are successfully selecting the custom imported gamma you could never choose PT or DL or BL. They are disabled when using the custom imported gamma.

Once you get that sorted, you may want to go high lamp and open the iris more, put the Panasonic at default, and then check test patterns.
Hey can you guys sort me out on this import? I've been traveling for business and just now catching up with Manni's "new discovery" but when following the instructions off of his AutoCal pins at the top it looks like when I import his 1000-4000 gamma profile and hit 'start' it finishes fine but when I bring up my gamma 3 it still looks the same as before. I think it's the step in bold below I'm brain flatulating on...

Quick start:
1) To download these files, you need to right click on the file name and select "save target as", otherwise it will open them (they are simply text files).
2) To install them, you need to use the import/export option from the main menu of the JVC Autocal, select gamma data (*.jgd), select the custom gamma profile you want to import the file into, click on "import", select the file you want to load and once the file is loaded, select start
3) To enable them, select the same custom gamma profile you imported the custom gamma file into, then select "import" as correction value. All the usual gamma settings (picture tone, dark gamma, bright gamma) are locked and greyed out. This is normal. It's a limitation of the custom gamma curves.

Essentially I guess I'm asking once I hit Start and the JVC software shows complete... where do I do the "import" as correction value... in the 'Gamma' section of the software or something (not seeing anything more to do in the JVC software and when I bring up the gamma options on the JVC PJ I don't see 'Import' (only the Normal, A,B,C,D,1,2,3). Do I need to cycle the PJ or something??

What am I doing wrong or not seeing (getting)?

(Oh BTW for those w/ iRule or any IP based software you can't use that software while also trying to use the AutoCal software... trashed my IPConfig on the JVC and I had to unplug the PJ to get an IP address to work after the collision!)

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post #20898 of 31899 Old 02-15-2017, 12:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stef2 View Post
So, please, Oppo and JVC users, how do you adjust those brightness and constast settings to get the best result?
I just asked this question earlier today on the previous page. Leave JVC settings BR +1 / CR 0

Make BR adjustments on the oppo, you should not have to change anything with regard to to CR on the Oppo. Use the Masciola patterns.
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post #20899 of 31899 Old 02-15-2017, 01:02 PM
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I truly don't mean to be a pest by being persistent with my question, but c'mon, guys, please help me out. I know, for a fact, that many posters here have the Panasonic UHD player. I really need to know if the HDR flag appears on your JVC RS500/600 projectors on EVERY content (HDR and SDR 2020/709) or if I have a defective player. This has not been the case with either the Samsung or Philips players (HDR flag shown only with HDR source material). I have a very narrow window of time to send this unit back to the seller, so I'd really appreciate it if someone would be so kind as to provide me with their own experience. Thanks, again!
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post #20900 of 31899 Old 02-15-2017, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atabea View Post
Hi Stef,

I have both the OPPO and the Panasonic. A few posts up, Manni suggested that we should make the BR and CR adjustments in the player. That said, I have tested the clip points with Masciola patterns in both HDR BT2020 and SDR BT2020 using the OPPO and with contrast and brightness at default in the JVC, the OPPO resolves bar 68 or .5% black at +7 brightness. Any higher, and the OPPO resolves below black which would be undesirable. As for contrast settings, I just put up Masciola's white clipping pattern while in one of Manni's custom gamma and adjust contrast in the player until I clip just above 1,000 nits ( which I think is -1 in the OPPO). Looks spectacular.
Are you able to resolve .5% black using the Oppos Strip Metadata function? I am still not able to do so and was under the impression this was being fixed by Oppo.

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post #20901 of 31899 Old 02-15-2017, 01:18 PM
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@Manni01 and all...

1. Is there a consensus on whether the 520/620 offers materially better PQ over the 500/600, for HDR or otherwise? I know its hard to ask if its "worth" upgrading to for those of us that bought the 500/600 late last year, since that's a subjective question. But that said, is it worth it?

2. I've seen some posts about HDR calibration recently - I'm a techie but some of this looks like it requires quite a learning curve to calibrate HDR (beyond just using the JVC autocal) ...?

3. Now that the line has been refreshed, is there a feel for whether the 520/620 will be updated again at CEDIA 2017 or is the 520/620 update likely the last until 2018?

Thanks!
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post #20902 of 31899 Old 02-15-2017, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by docrog View Post
I truly don't mean to be a pest by being persistent with my question, but c'mon, guys, please help me out. I know, for a fact, that many posters here have the Panasonic UHD player. I really need to know if the HDR flag appears on your JVC RS500/600 projectors on EVERY content (HDR and SDR 2020/709) or if I have a defective player. This has not been the case with either the Samsung or Philips players (HDR flag shown only with HDR source material). I have a very narrow window of time to send this unit back to the seller, so I'd really appreciate it if someone would be so kind as to provide me with their own experience. Thanks, again!
Hdr does not show and should not on all content...I noticed in a previous post you were using edid 8 for non hdr content...u should be using edit 10 for non hdr content...does hdr still say yes when u use edid 10?
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post #20903 of 31899 Old 02-15-2017, 01:20 PM
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Hey can you guys sort me out on this import? I've been traveling for business and just now catching up with Manni's "new discovery" but when following the instructions off of his AutoCal pins at the top it looks like when I import his 1000-4000 gamma profile and hit 'start' it finishes fine but when I bring up my gamma 3 it still looks the same as before. I think it's the step in bold below I'm brain flatulating on...

Quick start:
1) To download these files, you need to right click on the file name and select "save target as", otherwise it will open them (they are simply text files).
2) To install them, you need to use the import/export option from the main menu of the JVC Autocal, select gamma data (*.jgd), select the custom gamma profile you want to import the file into, click on "import", select the file you want to load and once the file is loaded, select start
3) To enable them, select the same custom gamma profile you imported the custom gamma file into, then select "import" as correction value. All the usual gamma settings (picture tone, dark gamma, bright gamma) are locked and greyed out. This is normal. It's a limitation of the custom gamma curves.

Essentially I guess I'm asking once I hit Start and the JVC software shows complete... where do I do the "import" as correction value... in the 'Gamma' section of the software or something (not seeing anything more to do in the JVC software and when I bring up the gamma options on the JVC PJ I don't see 'Import' (only the Normal, A,B,C,D,1,2,3). Do I need to cycle the PJ or something??

What am I doing wrong or not seeing (getting)?

(Oh BTW for those w/ iRule or any IP based software you can't use that software while also trying to use the AutoCal software... trashed my IPConfig on the JVC and I had to unplug the PJ to get an IP address to work after the collision!)
It's on the same Custom Gamma screen where you typically set Picture Tone / Dark Level / Bright Level; although those will be grayed out. The first field on that screen is "Correction Value". Press enter and the last gamma value in the list is "Import". If you don't see import then the Custom Gamma import must have failed. You are displaying the same Custom Gamma in the JVC that you selected in AutoCal? There was no need to restart the JVC in my case.
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post #20904 of 31899 Old 02-15-2017, 01:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by claw View Post
It's on the same Custom Gamma screen where you typically set Picture Tone / Dark Level / Bright Level; although those will be grayed out. The first field on that screen is "Correction Value". Press enter and the last gamma value in the list is "Import". If you don't see import then the Custom Gamma import must have failed. You are displaying the same Custom Gamma in the JVC that you selected in AutoCal? There was no need to restart the JVC in my case.


Oh Duh-haaaa! Thx bud (all good now).

Now on to Misseur Masciola!
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post #20905 of 31899 Old 02-15-2017, 02:11 PM
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2. When is Chad coming? The reason I ask is because you don't want to calibrate a brand new bulb. If you can put at least 100-150 hours on it then fine.
He's coming in Mid March. The hidden question I guess within my question was how much of light generally bulb looses when around 1k hours? I think total life is said to be 2k. In that case, is that safe to assume that bulb has lost around 30-40% of brightness?
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post #20906 of 31899 Old 02-15-2017, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by asharma View Post
Hdr does not show and should not on all content...I noticed in a previous post you were using edid 8 for non hdr content...u should be using edit 10 for non hdr content...does hdr still say yes when u use edid 10?
Thanks for your response. As I pointed out, as expected, the PJ does not show the HDR flag with EDID 10, but I typically leave the Integral at EDID 8 (essentially 4:2:0 pass through) with all other content that I don't need to change to SDR BT.2020. The other UHD players never sent an HDR flag with non-HDR material (especially Rec 709). That's my question regarding the Panny.
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post #20907 of 31899 Old 02-15-2017, 02:29 PM
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The more I read, the more I get confused about the best way to setup contrast and brightness in my own setup...(and the more I read, the more I notice I am not alone being confused...)

I guess this is because everyone's setup is different, so I will try to fiddle JVCs and Oppo's settings and will find ouy by myself what works best in my setup...

i guess a better question is: what is the main goal? preserve the black floor, of course. Resolve 17 if possible, of course. Clip up to what? this I am not sure. Does the oppo baseline contrast setting clip at 4000?
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post #20908 of 31899 Old 02-15-2017, 02:34 PM
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Thanks for your response. As I pointed out, as expected, the PJ does not show the HDR flag with EDID 10, but I typically leave the Integral at EDID 8 (essentially 4:2:0 pass through) with all other content that I don't need to change to SDR BT.2020. The other UHD players never sent an HDR flag with non-HDR material (especially Rec 709). That's my question regarding the Panny.
I change my edid depending if hdr content or not...I think most on here do too...I'm not sure what the Panni does if u run edid 8 with non hdr content...I simply use the iPhone app...it takes 2 seconds to change the edid back and forth...
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post #20909 of 31899 Old 02-15-2017, 02:42 PM
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Are you able to resolve .5% black using the Oppos Strip Metadata function? I am still not able to do so and was under the impression this was being fixed by Oppo.
No, at present, the best the OPPO can do in Strip Metadata mode is resolve black to 7.5% which represents a noticeable amount of black crush. This is precisely why the Panasonic is superior in this area as it can resolve all the way down to .5% in its HDR>SDR conversion. Hopefully OPPO will sort this out soon enough.
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post #20910 of 31899 Old 02-15-2017, 02:45 PM
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I change my edid depending if hdr content or not...I think most on here do too...I'm not sure what the Panni does if u run edid 8 with non hdr content...I simply use the iPhone app...it takes 2 seconds to change the edid back and forth...
While I perfectly understand that concept, it makes no sense to me why the Panny would be issuing a false HDR flag for Rec709 material for anyone not owning an Integral (equivalent to running the Integral in EDID 8). Manni01, since you have vast experience with the Panny, could you please comment on this??? An others out there?
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