Originally Posted by stevenjw
Excellent summary for those that appear to have recently started posting in this thread. My added two cents / advice would be this:
If your screen size is too big, don't expect HDR to work well. It was really designed for displays. I don't ever expect my projector to look as good as my OLED with HDR, or anything for that matter, but I use the projector a lot more because it's bigger. And in my bat-cave, it's bright enough for BDs and some improvements from HDR using a 136" 2.35:1 1.1 gain screen. I'd get more benefits if my screen was smaller or projector was brighter and a real 4K with great lens. It is what it is and I'm just looking to get HDR to look as good as it can right now. A future projector upgrade when the price is right will change that side of the equation.
Great post, but I do have one thing I disagree with, and that's the bold part. I firmly believe that HDR can work well on projectors, of course it won't look like an OLED or flat panel, but that's not the point. As noted, most content in an HDR picture is mastered at less than 100 nits, in other words the same as Blu-ray's and other SD content, this is what Carbon calls "MTO" or "Most Typical Objects" content. Everything above 100 nits is specular highlights. Now with the proper gamma curve (which we can now generate and upload), we can reduce the brightness of MTO content, just like we do with SDR/Blu-ray, and then we can use whatever brightness is left, for those specular highlights. Of course the less brightness you have, the more you have to compress things, but it can still look good.
The key thing to remember is, if we want to enjoy the benefits of UHD Blu-ray, WCG, better encoding, etc, then we have to deal with HDR, there's no off switch for HDR on UHD Blu-ray. The only question is, does an external device like the Panasonic or Oppo do a better job converting HDR to SDR with their "one size fits all" approach*, or can we do a better job with a custom calibration designed just for our specific configurations. I'm betting on the later.
*I realize Panasonic and Oppo have sliders to adjust their conversion, but we've found that if you reduce the slider on the Panasonic far enough to resolve up to 4000 nits, the rest of the image often gets too dark. We can generate curves that don't have that problem.
Originally Posted by desertdome
I'll be in Mason City for an audio/video calibration as soon as the owner is finished with his theater - probably early summer. I've had enough inquiries from the Cedar Rapids/Iowa City area that maybe I should come down that way for a couple of days. I typically just calibrate in the Omaha, Des Moines, or Kansas City areas unless I fly directly to a customer.
If you want to move to IP control, consider going with the Harmony Elite or Harmony Hub.
Thanks for the offer, I think I'm set for calibration
As for Harmony, lets just say they're not a good fit for me, I really don't like the hardware or the programming interface.
Originally Posted by lovingdvd
Can anyone comment on whether the measuring of white/black clipping points for HDR needs to be done differently than with SDR patterns? See https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-dig...l#post50937177
. I'm going to do some testing tonight and want to make certain my black level is set correctly and that I have not raised the black floor (even though it does not appear I have done so) since Manni said that anything over +1 does (but Ray's patterns say I can go up to +6 without raising the black floor).
To measure brightness, just put up a 100% white pattern and measure it. Doesn't matter if it's an HDR or SDR pattern, or if you're in HDR or SDR mode, you just want to make sure you're in the same lamp mode and lens aperture.
Originally Posted by Sittler27
Few questions just before I go diving into this whole HDR thing with my X750R:
1. If one wanted not to avoid using high lamp, is using a custom HDR gamma curve (or making one) still worth it over going the SDR BT2020 route?
(throw = 15'; 138" scope screen image; 1.3 true gain)
I'd definitely try it, that's really the only way to know which one you prefer.
2. I have an Oppo 203: does the Linker for enabling DI in HDR still work for me?
3. Can I create my own curve if I only have HCFR (and an i1d2 and Spyder 5)?
If it has an HDR10 target curve, or if it allows you to do a custom curve. Or I suppose you could do it the hard way and measure things by hand.