Official JVC RS600 / RS500 (X950R / X750R - X9000 / X7000) Owners Thread - Page 769 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #23041 of 32006 Old 03-18-2017, 05:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
This is great but you need to decode the MaxCLL and MaxFALL parameters, they are quite important. The country of origin of the disc (along with the title) would be good too, sometimes the metadata is different between editions.
Since no one has updated v3 of the document, I uploaded v4 that includes Country, MaxCLL and MaxFALL.

Maybe you can check a few of the values.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1y61Z1DIZdohpeNYNhc3-Yyn406EoeqUMgRN2WboIRWE/edit?usp=sharing

v5:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing
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Last edited by claw; 03-18-2017 at 06:03 PM.
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post #23042 of 32006 Old 03-18-2017, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post
What will we use those extra params for? To get an idea of how aggressive we can get away with clipping and ornwhat curve to choose for optimal playback?
The max brightness used for the grading monitor is a pointless indication. I mean, if the title is mastered to 1000 or 1100nits, you know it doesn't go beyond that, but seeing that a title is mastered to 4000nits tells you nothing (apart from the fact that it was mastered on a 1080p Dolby Vision monitor).

The content of most 4000nits titles only reach up to 1000nits-1200nits, occasionally up to 2500nits. Those that actually reach up to 4000nits are a handful. We've discussed this many times already.

MaxCLL and MaxFALL give you an indication of what the content limits are (but no certitude, metadata can be wrong). Google them to see exactly what they mean.

The grading monitor max brightness only gives you the size of the tube, not the size of the content sent through the tube. Most colorists clip content at 1000-1100nits even when they use a monitor able to display up to 4000nits. That's because they know that there are no consumer displays able to reach much more than 1100nits today.
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post #23043 of 32006 Old 03-18-2017, 05:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by claw View Post
Since no one has updated v3 of the document, I uploaded v4 that includes Country, MaxCLL and MaxFALL.

Maybe you can check a few of the values.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

Edit: There is an error. Getting the values from the wrong row.

CJ
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post #23044 of 32006 Old 03-18-2017, 05:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by claw View Post
Edit: There is an error. Getting the values from the wrong row.
Yes, it didn't look quite right
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post #23045 of 32006 Old 03-18-2017, 06:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
Yes, it didn't look quite right
Hopefully corrected in v5 of the document. Would take too long to edit online so I uploaded a new version.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing
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post #23046 of 32006 Old 03-18-2017, 06:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by claw View Post
Hopefully corrected in v5 of the document. Would take too long to edit online so I uploaded a new version.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing
Looks better

At some point you might want to add the display primaries (the white point is unlikely to change). For now, all titles use P3 within BT2020, but at in the future they will start to use wider than P3. Some Dolby Vision Cinema titles such as Inside Out already use a wider gamut than P3. But as Disney don't release UHB Blurays yet, we're safe for a while
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post #23047 of 32006 Old 03-18-2017, 06:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
Looks better

At some point you might want to add the display primaries (the white point is unlikely to change). For now, all titles use P3 within BT2020, but at in the future they will start to use wider than P3. Some Dolby Vision Cinema titles such as Inside Out already use a wider gamut than P3. But as Disney don't release UHB Blurays yet, we're safe for a while
OK.

Just added Hacksaw Ridge. Sitting back to watch it now.

Google is a little different than I am used to with Excel.

1. Insert new row at alphabetic sort location.
2. Copy existing row.
3. Paste into new row.
4. Change Title, Country.
5. Paste Metadata

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Last edited by claw; 03-18-2017 at 06:32 PM.
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post #23048 of 32006 Old 03-18-2017, 07:20 PM
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Power Lost while watching - Potential for Damage?

I was just watching some Netflix HDR on my RS400, using High Lamp, and out of nowhere, the power went out.

The Projector didn't have time to cool down, and I'm worried about the potential for damage to the bulb (it has around 550 hours on it now). What is the likelihood that I'm screwed?

I had been thinking about getting a UPS for this summer, as that's when we typically have power loss, but I guess I'll go ahead and get one now.

BB has an APC 450 VA unit for $45. Is that enough power to keep the fan running for as long as it needs to cool down the lamp properly, even if in High Lamp? If not, how much do I need?

The Projector would be the only device on this UPS.

Thanks. I'm hoping I can get by without problems, but I am worried.

Don

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post #23049 of 32006 Old 03-18-2017, 08:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laugsbach View Post
I usually like to have a replacement lamp available for my projector but was a bit surprised at the cost of a new lamp from JVC. I saw this today on eBay and it looks like a real JVC lamp for a good price with a make offer button as well...any comments?


http://www.ebay.com/itm/JVC-PK-L2615...4AAOSwsW9YxIAK
I bought my relacement lamp there a few weeks ago. I got a real one for sure, brand new.
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post #23050 of 32006 Old 03-18-2017, 08:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DLCPhoto View Post
I was just watching some Netflix HDR on my RS400, using High Lamp, and out of nowhere, the power went out.

The Projector didn't have time to cool down, and I'm worried about the potential for damage to the bulb (it has around 550 hours on it now). What is the likelihood that I'm screwed?

I had been thinking about getting a UPS for this summer, as that's when we typically have power loss, but I guess I'll go ahead and get one now.

BB has an APC 450 VA unit for $45. Is that enough power to keep the fan running for as long as it needs to cool down the lamp properly, even if in High Lamp? If not, how much do I need?

The Projector would be the only device on this UPS.

Thanks. I'm hoping I can get by without problems, but I am worried.

Don
Losing power while the PJ is on is supposed to be hard on the lamp. It happened to me once when I unplugged my JVC without paying attention. I waited a few hours for the lamp to fully cool down before turining the PJ back on. No damage that I can see or measure in my case, but it might make the lamp more fragile or dimmer. I wonder how much of this is true, though. It might be more of a problem if it happens many times, for sure.
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post #23051 of 32006 Old 03-18-2017, 08:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laugsbach View Post
I usually like to have a replacement lamp available for my projector but was a bit surprised at the cost of a new lamp from JVC. I saw this today on eBay and it looks like a real JVC lamp for a good price with a make offer button as well...any comments?


http://www.ebay.com/itm/JVC-PK-L2615...4AAOSwsW9YxIAK
That is way below dealer cost, so I wonder what the catch is.
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post #23052 of 32006 Old 03-18-2017, 09:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DLCPhoto View Post
I was just watching some Netflix HDR on my RS400, using High Lamp, and out of nowhere, the power went out.

The Projector didn't have time to cool down, and I'm worried about the potential for damage to the bulb (it has around 550 hours on it now). What is the likelihood that I'm screwed?

I had been thinking about getting a UPS for this summer, as that's when we typically have power loss, but I guess I'll go ahead and get one now.

BB has an APC 450 VA unit for $45. Is that enough power to keep the fan running for as long as it needs to cool down the lamp properly, even if in High Lamp? If not, how much do I need?

The Projector would be the only device on this UPS.

Thanks. I'm hoping I can get by without problems, but I am worried.

Don

Most likely you will be fine.
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post #23053 of 32006 Old 03-18-2017, 09:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DLCPhoto View Post
I was just watching some Netflix HDR on my RS400, using High Lamp, and out of nowhere, the power went out.

The Projector didn't have time to cool down, and I'm worried about the potential for damage to the bulb (it has around 550 hours on it now). What is the likelihood that I'm screwed?

I had been thinking about getting a UPS for this summer, as that's when we typically have power loss, but I guess I'll go ahead and get one now.

BB has an APC 450 VA unit for $45. Is that enough power to keep the fan running for as long as it needs to cool down the lamp properly, even if in High Lamp? If not, how much do I need?

The Projector would be the only device on this UPS.

Thanks. I'm hoping I can get by without problems, but I am worried.

Don
Don't worry. It'll be fine. I've heard that the primary reason the fan runs to cool it down is so that its available to be turned back on quickly after it is powered off, like if you power it off accidentally or change your mind.
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post #23054 of 32006 Old 03-18-2017, 09:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by claw View Post
OK.

Just added Hacksaw Ridge. Sitting back to watch it now.

Google is a little different than I am used to with Excel.

1. Insert new row at alphabetic sort location.
2. Copy existing row.
3. Paste into new row.
4. Change Title, Country.
5. Paste Metadata
It would probably be safer to just copy the last line in the sheet and paste it after. Then modify it with the new title data. We can always sort the sheet by Title.

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post #23055 of 32006 Old 03-18-2017, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by claw View Post
It would probably be safer to just copy the last line in the sheet and paste it after. Then modify it with the new title data. We can always sort the sheet by Title.
Great. As a quick test I added Pan to the bottom of the list. Worked great.
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post #23056 of 32006 Old 03-19-2017, 12:29 AM
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Don't worry. It'll be fine. I've heard that the primary reason the fan runs to cool it down is so that its available to be turned back on quickly after it is powered off, like if you power it off accidentally or change your mind.
Its actually because when the cooling stops suddenly there is no more ventilation to stop any runaway thermal buildup. The lamp will actually continue to raise in temp and the surrounding parts will possibly melt, or overheat. And heat isn't good for anything.

So, the fan runs after shutdown to make sure that doesn't happen.

Same thing actually happens with a car engine believe it or not. It will actually raise in temp when you shut it off for a good few minutes, then it will begin to cool down.
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post #23057 of 32006 Old 03-19-2017, 03:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stef2 View Post
Losing power while the PJ is on is supposed to be hard on the lamp. It happened to me once when I unplugged my JVC without paying attention. I waited a few hours for the lamp to fully cool down before turining the PJ back on. No damage that I can see or measure in my case, but it might make the lamp more fragile or dimmer. I wonder how much of this is true, though. It might be more of a problem if it happens many times, for sure.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Garrett View Post
Most likely you will be fine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post
Don't worry. It'll be fine. I've heard that the primary reason the fan runs to cool it down is so that its available to be turned back on quickly after it is powered off, like if you power it off accidentally or change your mind.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Javs View Post
Its actually because when the cooling stops suddenly there is no more ventilation to stop any runaway thermal buildup. The lamp will actually continue to raise in temp and the surrounding parts will possibly melt, or overheat. And heat isn't good for anything.

So, the fan runs after shutdown to make sure that doesn't happen.

Same thing actually happens with a car engine believe it or not. It will actually raise in temp when you shut it off for a good few minutes, then it will begin to cool down.
I appreciate the replies, guys.

My room is generally fairly cool to begin with, and the projector is out in the open, suspended from a ceiling beam across the vaulted ceiling, so nothing blocking anything, anywhere. I'll test it out later this morning. Power was out for an hour and a half. So hopefully, I got off easy...

I would still like to go ahead and get a UPS to protect the Projector in this type of situation. Any specific recommendations on a unit, or what specs I need, to provide adequate power? Again, the RS400 will be the only device on this UPS (the nature of my setup has the PJ's power supply remote from any other device, and really can't be changed).

I posted on a UPS related thread in the Audio section, and got this reply:

Quote:
The VA ratings are volt-amperes, for a load that is at least partly reactive. The actual power rating is much lower. One APC 450VA unit, for example, is rated at 255W.

The lamp in your projector is rated at 265W max. I'd guess that you'd want at least a 600VA (330W) UPS.

I hope that the projector doesn't draw a lot of excess power while it's starting up. I once stupidly connected a small laser printer to a UPS. The printer, while starting up, tried to draw more power from the UPS than was available. No damage, but the UPS was unhappy.
All I could find in the manual is:

Quote:
380 W (during networked standby: 1.5W (when all wired network ports are connected), during standby (Eco Mode): 0.4W
So any suggestions? What are you all using for this purpose?

Thanks again.

Don

JVC RS400, Marantz SR7010, Screen Innovations 160" 2.35:1 Screen
Front L/R: Duntech Sovereigns, powered by 2 bridged Adcom GFA-555
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post #23058 of 32006 Old 03-19-2017, 08:08 AM
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I have the RS 600 paired with Oppo 203 and want to upscale Blu-ray movies. Is it best to do this with a setting in the Oppo or the PJ? If I use the Oppo, which Custom Resolution should I select? UHD Auto?
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post #23059 of 32006 Old 03-19-2017, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Iwanthd View Post
I have the RS 600 paired with Oppo 203 and want to upscale Blu-ray movies. Is it best to do this with a setting in the Oppo or the PJ? If I use the Oppo, which Custom Resolution should I select? UHD Auto?
Opinions vary. Try both and see what pleases you most.

IMO, the best quality is actually neither of those scenarios you describe, but to play regular blu-ray at 1080p in the Oppo, and display it at 1080p on the RS500. Upscaling nowhere looks better to my eyes than upscaling in the Oppo and better than upscaling in the projector.
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post #23060 of 32006 Old 03-19-2017, 08:53 AM
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That is way below dealer cost, so I wonder what the catch is.
Probably stolen.

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post #23061 of 32006 Old 03-19-2017, 09:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DLCPhoto View Post

So any suggestions? What are you all using for this purpose?

Thanks again.

Don
I went for a 1200VA unit with something like a pure sine wave output, a Belkin PureAV unit that is now discontinued.

If I were you, I'd get something that is about twice what you think you need both in terms of wattage output AND runtime. That gives you capacity and a margin of safety since batteries degrade over time and you might want to add a device or two at times. (For example, I keep my oppo plugged into the same device so that there is no danger of bricking the unit due to power hiccups when doing a firmware update.)

I would choose something from APC, rather than an off brand, and I would choose something labelled "pure sine wave" with voltage regulation. If you are going to do this then do it right, imo.

Also, set a calendar reminder to replace the better about every three years. Arizona Battery is a great source. Might you be able to get away with a fourth or fifth year? Maybe. And you might have a complete failure during year five, like I did, which was as bad as having the mains cut to the projector..... which is what I was trying to avoid in the first place.
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post #23062 of 32006 Old 03-19-2017, 09:18 AM
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RS-500 & Linker issue:

I received my HD Furry Linker this weekend and I am having issues with syncing or locking in the hdmi signal between sources and resolutions. I have the linker set to pass trough with HDR off so that I can use a custom curve without having to switch from D gamma.
This works fine except it does not consistently lock to the signal. Sometimes it completely locks to a blank screen or digital snow effect. This locking issue occurs when using using Netflix from the Panasonic. Switching between inputs usually clears it and sometimes it does not. This projector has always taken a long time to lock into the hdmi signal, however it has always locked in when going directly from the receiver or when using the HD Furry Integral.

Just wondering if anyone has been having this issue.

Thank you
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post #23063 of 32006 Old 03-19-2017, 09:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DLCPhoto View Post
I appreciate the replies, guys.

My room is generally fairly cool to begin with, and the projector is out in the open, suspended from a ceiling beam across the vaulted ceiling, so nothing blocking anything, anywhere. I'll test it out later this morning. Power was out for an hour and a half. So hopefully, I got off easy...

I would still like to go ahead and get a UPS to protect the Projector in this type of situation. Any specific recommendations on a unit, or what specs I need, to provide adequate power? Again, the RS400 will be the only device on this UPS (the nature of my setup has the PJ's power supply remote from any other device, and really can't be changed).

I posted on a UPS related thread in the Audio section, and got this reply:



All I could find in the manual is:



So any suggestions? What are you all using for this purpose?

Thanks again.

Don
If you call the back up manufacturers they can help you determine which unit is a good fit if you are unsure. They often have calculators or product selectors for this. I'm using a APC J35B for the PJ and a few other light pieces of equipment (cable box etc). Here is the J25B which is cheaper and will also do the trick: https://www.amazon.com/APC-J25B-8-Ou.../dp/B003GSLL2E . From what I recall this will give you the time needed for the fan to finish.
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post #23064 of 32006 Old 03-19-2017, 09:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DVD MAN View Post
RS-500 & Linker issue:

I received my HD Furry Linker this weekend and I am having issues with syncing or locking in the hdmi signal between sources and resolutions. I have the linker set to pass trough with HDR off so that I can use a custom curve without having to switch from D gamma.
This works fine except it does not consistently lock to the signal. Sometimes it completely locks to a blank screen or digital snow effect. This locking issue occurs when using using Netflix from the Panasonic. Switching between inputs usually clears it and sometimes it does not. This projector has always taken a long time to lock into the hdmi signal, however it has always locked in when going directly from the receiver or when using the HD Furry Integral.

Just wondering if anyone has been having this issue.

Thank you
If u r able to place the Linker directly just before the pj, try that config...

Video:JVC N7 Sony 85” 900F Sony 55” 900F
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post #23065 of 32006 Old 03-19-2017, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Dave Vaughn View Post
Probably stolen.
The seller also has an RS400 listed. Maybe he just kept a lifetime supply of lamps on hand.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/JVC-DLA-RS40...-/311826929781

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post #23066 of 32006 Old 03-19-2017, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by DVD MAN View Post
RS-500 & Linker issue:

I received my HD Furry Linker this weekend and I am having issues with syncing or locking in the hdmi signal between sources and resolutions. I have the linker set to pass trough with HDR off so that I can use a custom curve without having to switch from D gamma.
This works fine except it does not consistently lock to the signal. Sometimes it completely locks to a blank screen or digital snow effect. This locking issue occurs when using using Netflix from the Panasonic. Switching between inputs usually clears it and sometimes it does not. This projector has always taken a long time to lock into the hdmi signal, however it has always locked in when going directly from the receiver or when using the HD Furry Integral.

Just wondering if anyone has been having this issue.

Thank you
Yes there are several issues like this. See the Linker thread and in particular you can search for all my posts in there. I had a variety of issues and most of them seem to have sorted themselves out. My Linker now is very stable with EDID 2 or 8 locked in and using the slider in the middle position. SINK does not work well in my setup, as sometimes it is not able to properly read the EDID and winds up defaulting to SDR BT2020. Where you put the Linker can also make a big difference. I put mine between the UB900 and AVR because a) it is most convenient to be placed there in the rack (instead of at the pj), and b) I don't want the Linker involved in the chain for any other source since I only need to strip HDR from the UB900. Anyway I recommend spending some time reading through the last month or so of the Linker thread and you can post in there and "mention" user HDFury and he will respond there with great technical support. They are very attentive and will work hard to help you get it straight. And unless your setup is very unique I am confident you'll be able to get it working reliably with some patience and trial and error.
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post #23067 of 32006 Old 03-19-2017, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by nathan_h View Post
I went for a 1200VA unit with something like a pure sine wave output, a Belkin PureAV unit that is now discontinued.

If I were you, I'd get something that is about twice what you think you need both in terms of wattage output AND runtime. That gives you capacity and a margin of safety since batteries degrade over time and you might want to add a device or two at times. (For example, I keep my oppo plugged into the same device so that there is no danger of bricking the unit due to power hiccups when doing a firmware update.)

I would choose something from APC, rather than an off brand, and I would choose something labelled "pure sine wave" with voltage regulation. If you are going to do this then do it right, imo.

Also, set a calendar reminder to replace the better about every three years. Arizona Battery is a great source. Might you be able to get away with a fourth or fifth year? Maybe. And you might have a complete failure during year five, like I did, which was as bad as having the mains cut to the projector..... which is what I was trying to avoid in the first place.
Thanks for the reply. That calendar reminder is a good idea. I have occasionally run into this with the UPS for my PC, where I needed it, and the battery was shot.

But to follow-up on the specifics:

First, how much do I "need" for this purpose? Your advice to double it is reasonable, but with little background in electrical engineering, I don't know how to determine what that baseline need is, or what number I need to double.

Second, again acknowledging my electrical engineering ignorance, I have read posts from some who have suggested that "pure sine wave" and voltage regulation had questionable practical relevance or scientific credibility, at least with the current in countries like the U.S. I am just confessing my ignorance here, not expressing an opinion. Do these features really provide anything worthwhile in the context where it would be used in my setup?

Thanks again.

Don

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post #23068 of 32006 Old 03-19-2017, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by asharma View Post
If u r able to place the Linker directly just before the pj, try that config...
The linker's output is going directly to the RS500 and the receivers output goes into the input of the Linker.
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post #23069 of 32006 Old 03-19-2017, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by asharma View Post
If u r able to place the Linker directly just before the pj, try that config...
Or try placing the Linker in front of your AVR if you have it placed after.
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post #23070 of 32006 Old 03-19-2017, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post
If you call the back up manufacturers they can help you determine which unit is a good fit if you are unsure. They often have calculators or product selectors for this. I'm using a APC J35B for the PJ and a few other light pieces of equipment (cable box etc). Here is the J25B which is cheaper and will also do the trick: https://www.amazon.com/APC-J25B-8-Ou.../dp/B003GSLL2E . From what I recall this will give you the time needed for the fan to finish.
Thanks for the reply.

Same question that I posed to nathan_h. I have seen challenges to the necessity of "power conditioners" at least with U.S. current, and I'm uncertain about the added cost this brings to the table.

The unit you linked to looks fine, but I don't need the 8 outlets, and there is the question on paying for a "power conditioner" which may or may not be needed.

All I'm really wanting is a battery back-up with enough power to do allow the Projector to cool down properly.

I also read a post about someone who contacted APC (I think that's who it was), and when he referred to this being for a Projector, said they needed to buy something in their Audio-Visual product line, at considerably more expense.

I'm trying to simply avoid the 'voodoo' that often infiltrates this industry, and get something that will do what I need, nothing more.

Don

JVC RS400, Marantz SR7010, Screen Innovations 160" 2.35:1 Screen
Front L/R: Duntech Sovereigns, powered by 2 bridged Adcom GFA-555
Center: Revel C208 powered by Cambridge Audio Azur 851W
Dolby Bed (4): Sony Core SS-CS5, Atmos (4): Ascend Acoustics CBM-170 SE
Subwoofer: DIY 8' sub with 4 18" SI Drivers, powered by iNuke 6000
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