Official JVC RS600 / RS500 (X950R / X750R - X9000 / X7000) Owners Thread - Page 770 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #23071 of 32006 Old 03-19-2017, 09:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post
Yes there are several issues like this. See the Linker thread and in particular you can search for all my posts in there. I had a variety of issues and most of them seem to have sorted themselves out. My Linker now is very stable with EDID 2 or 8 locked in and using the slider in the middle position. SINK does not work well in my setup, as sometimes it is not able to properly read the EDID and winds up defaulting to SDR BT2020. Where you put the Linker can also make a big difference. I put mine between the UB900 and AVR because a) it is most convenient to be placed there in the rack (instead of at the pj), and b) I don't want the Linker involved in the chain for any other source since I only need to strip HDR from the UB900. Anyway I recommend spending some time reading through the last month or so of the Linker thread and you can post in there and "mention" user HDFury and he will respond there with great technical support. They are very attentive and will work hard to help you get it straight. And unless your setup is very unique I am confident you'll be able to get it working reliably with some patience and trial and error.
That sounds great!!

Thanks for the information. I will make some changes to the system. I like the idea of going from the Panasonic to the linker and then to the receiver. I left the same post in the Linker thread.
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post #23072 of 32006 Old 03-19-2017, 09:46 AM
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Streaming Netflix HDR?

When I try to stream Netflix in HDR from my Roku Ultra to my JVC X750R I get projector lockups - the screen turns into multi-colored static, and the only way to restore the JVC is to restart the projector. I am using a 20 ft. run of BJC 1E, which Sound and Vision confirmed to work with HDR, and it passes HDR from my Oppo 203 just fine. (Both the Roku and the Oppo go through an Anthem AVM-60 and then to the JVC.)

Is anyone else having this problem with the Roku Ultra? Any solutions?

I am wiling to buy another streaming source to provide Netflix HDR if I can have some confidence that it will work with a 20 ft. cable run. (I also am willing to try the 20ft. Monoprice cable to see if this resolves the problem.) I know that the Sammy K8500 now will stream Netflix HDR. Is anyone streaming it over a 20 ft cable run to a JVC with success?

All suggestions greatly appreciated. Netflix HDR over the JVC with a custom curve looks incredible (for the brief time that I can watch it before a lockup) and I don't even have the Linker in the chain yet.

Thanks.

--Charlie
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post #23073 of 32006 Old 03-19-2017, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by CLHDTV View Post
When I try to stream Netflix in HDR from my Roku Ultra to my JVC X750R I get projector lockups - the screen turns into multi-colored static, and the only way to restore the JVC is to restart the projector. I am using a 20 ft. run of BJC 1E, which Sound and Vision confirmed to work with HDR, and it passes HDR from my Oppo 203 just fine. (Both the Roku and the Oppo go through an Anthem AVM-60 and then to the JVC.)

Is anyone else having this problem with the Roku Ultra? Any solutions?
...
I had the same issue. Turn off the C.M.D. function in the JVC and try again. At 4k, the Roku does 60p which the JVC does not like with C.M.D. on.
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post #23074 of 32006 Old 03-19-2017, 10:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CLHDTV View Post
When I try to stream Netflix in HDR from my Roku Ultra to my JVC X750R I get projector lockups - the screen turns into multi-colored static, and the only way to restore the JVC is to restart the projector. I am using a 20 ft. run of BJC 1E, which Sound and Vision confirmed to work with HDR, and it passes HDR from my Oppo 203 just fine. (Both the Roku and the Oppo go through an Anthem AVM-60 and then to the JVC.)

Is anyone else having this problem with the Roku Ultra? Any solutions?

I am wiling to buy another streaming source to provide Netflix HDR if I can have some confidence that it will work with a 20 ft. cable run. (I also am willing to try the 20ft. Monoprice cable to see if this resolves the problem.) I know that the Sammy K8500 now will stream Netflix HDR. Is anyone streaming it over a 20 ft cable run to a JVC with success?

All suggestions greatly appreciated. Netflix HDR over the JVC with a custom curve looks incredible (for the brief time that I can watch it before a lockup) and I don't even have the Linker in the chain yet.

Thanks.

--Charlie
I use a 25 foot BJC Series-1E from my Denon AVR to my RS500.

I run Netflix from the Samsung UHD player through the Denon AVR. I have no issues, but the Samsung does send almost all content at 4K24 and not 4K60. Black Mirror is 4K60 and I had no issue with it.

Netflix HDR does look much better with a custom gamma curve, but Amazon HDR looks incredibly good.

CJ
JVC RS500|LG B7A OLED|Denon X6400H/X4200W|Panasonic UB820|Two Oppo 203|Samsung K8500|Apple TV 4K|HDfury Diva/Vertex/Linker/Integral
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post #23075 of 32006 Old 03-19-2017, 10:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post
Yes there are several issues like this. See the Linker thread and in particular you can search for all my posts in there. I had a variety of issues and most of them seem to have sorted themselves out. My Linker now is very stable with EDID 2 or 8 locked in and using the slider in the middle position. SINK does not work well in my setup, as sometimes it is not able to properly read the EDID and winds up defaulting to SDR BT2020. Where you put the Linker can also make a big difference. I put mine between the UB900 and AVR because a) it is most convenient to be placed there in the rack (instead of at the pj), and b) I don't want the Linker involved in the chain for any other source since I only need to strip HDR from the UB900. Anyway I recommend spending some time reading through the last month or so of the Linker thread and you can post in there and "mention" user HDFury and he will respond there with great technical support. They are very attentive and will work hard to help you get it straight. And unless your setup is very unique I am confident you'll be able to get it working reliably with some patience and trial and error.
What exact settings are you using:

Autoswitch: Enable/Disable
Priority: Normal/Forced
HDCP: 1.4/2.2
Scaling Mode: Down/Thru/Up
EDID Sink/Fixed/Custom

I'm just trying to nail mine down to the proper settings, but it's extremely inconsistent regardless of where I put it. Sadly, there are tons of audio dropouts if I place it between the Oppo and my projector.

David Vaughn Blu-ray Reviewer / Technical Writer Sound & Vision Magazine (Print & Online)
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post #23076 of 32006 Old 03-19-2017, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by DLCPhoto View Post
Thanks for the reply. That calendar reminder is a good idea. I have occasionally run into this with the UPS for my PC, where I needed it, and the battery was shot.

But to follow-up on the specifics:

First, how much do I "need" for this purpose? Your advice to double it is reasonable, but with little background in electrical engineering, I don't know how to determine what that baseline need is, or what number I need to double.

Second, again acknowledging my electrical engineering ignorance, I have read posts from some who have suggested that "pure sine wave" and voltage regulation had questionable practical relevance or scientific credibility, at least with the current in countries like the U.S. I am just confessing my ignorance here, not expressing an opinion. Do these features really provide anything worthwhile in the context where it would be used in my setup?

Thanks again.

Don
Twice as much wattage means twice as much wattage as the projector's max draw. I think you posted this already.

Twice as much time means enough amp hours on the battery to run the projector for a few minutes while you panic, and start shutting things down, and still having enough amp hours for the cool down fan to run. I would say size it for 10+ minutes max wattage.

Pure sine wave output means you are placing less work on the projector power supply. Overkill? Maybe. But I like to have a margin of safety. If you get a stepped wine wave output, that makes the power look 'dirtier' than power from a wall outlet from the perspective of sensitive gear. It might still work fine.
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post #23077 of 32006 Old 03-19-2017, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Ximori View Post
I'm not really sure about that; auto-cal only allows 3 slots in the gamma section while the color import functions in a totally different entity, so I don't see quite the correlation. Nevertheless, hope you're right!



Please do, I hate to see Manni always teaching us how to catch some wild salmons, while were back there grilling.
Best I can tell from testing last night it is only using the 3 custom import gammas regardless of the color profile its used for. I purposefully created a low output (dark) Arve curve last night and saved to my '3' slot while under my Chad calibrated 'r2020' profile. Then I switched back to my JVC imported BT.2020 which had my Arve created curve under Custom3 import from the other night and sure enough the gamma remained very dark. ;o(
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post #23078 of 32006 Old 03-19-2017, 10:52 AM
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BTW - quick Arve Utility question if someone can answer...

I assume I did this correctly (for the above test), but just to be sure... I saved my calibration to a file before doing my "dark test", so all I need to do after launching the tool is use the 'load gamma from file' option to restore my saved gamma config (or for reloading a number of diff saved sessions for diff content any time I want)? Do I have this right?

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post #23079 of 32006 Old 03-19-2017, 11:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krichter1 View Post
BTW - quick Arve Utility question if someone can answer...

I assume I did this correctly (for the above test), but just to be sure... I saved my calibration to a file before doing my "dark test", so all I need to do after launching the tool is use the 'load gamma from file' option to restore my saved gamma config (or for reloading a number of diff saved sessions for diff content any time I want)? Do I have this right?
Yes, but ensure you have chosen the correct gamma slot to save to when u restore, but assuming you did that
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post #23080 of 32006 Old 03-19-2017, 11:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathan_h View Post
Twice as much wattage means twice as much wattage as the projector's max draw. I think you posted this already.

Twice as much time means enough amp hours on the battery to run the projector for a few minutes while you panic, and start shutting things down, and still having enough amp hours for the cool down fan to run. I would say size it for 10+ minutes max wattage.

Pure sine wave output means you are placing less work on the projector power supply. Overkill? Maybe. But I like to have a margin of safety. If you get a stepped wine wave output, that makes the power look 'dirtier' than power from a wall outlet from the perspective of sensitive gear. It might still work fine.
Thanks. I have found 2 units that look promising:


APC 900VA/480W/354 Joule Backup Model BN900M


CyberPower 1100VA/660W/890 Joule Model LX1100G

The lower spec APC 900VA is available at Best Buy for $99.99.
The higher spec CyberPower 1100VA is available at BJ's for the same $99.99 ($129.99 at Best Buy). Its specs include mention of 'Single Boost AVR', along with 'simulated sine wave' - this could all be marketing mumbo-jumbo for all I know, but that's what they say.

I'm inclined to go with the CyberPower unit unless there are some compelling reasons not to. Any other models I should consider appreciated.

Don

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post #23081 of 32006 Old 03-19-2017, 12:17 PM
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So what's the consensus on the best UHD player setup to the RS600 now?

I had planned on getting the Oppo, but seemed there was still a lot of bugs to work out at launch so I'm still rocking the Samsung. Also heard some people were using the Panasonic and HD Fury with good results. Figured enough time had passed now to make a more informed upgrade. Thanks (running through Marantz pre/pro if that matters any)
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post #23082 of 32006 Old 03-19-2017, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DLCPhoto View Post
Thanks. I have found 2 units that look promising:


APC 900VA/480W/354 Joule Backup Model BN900M


CyberPower 1100VA/660W/890 Joule Model LX1100G

The lower spec APC 900VA is available at Best Buy for $99.99.
The higher spec CyberPower 1100VA is available at BJ's for the same $99.99 ($129.99 at Best Buy). Its specs include mention of 'Single Boost AVR', along with 'simulated sine wave' - this could all be marketing mumbo-jumbo for all I know, but that's what they say.

I'm inclined to go with the CyberPower unit unless there are some compelling reasons not to. Any other models I should consider appreciated.

Don
I've got a 1500VA sine wave Cyberpower for my PC and it's pretty nice. I also have a 1500VA older APC for my entire home theater and that's fine too. I had the power cut out once with my old projector and was able to finish 20 minutes of watching the series finale of Dexter (what a disappointment) and power off the system without a hitch.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rengozu View Post
So what's the consensus on the best UHD player setup to the RS600 now?

I had planned on getting the Oppo, but seemed there was still a lot of bugs to work out at launch so I'm still rocking the Samsung. Also heard some people were using the Panasonic and HD Fury with good results. Figured enough time had passed now to make a more informed upgrade. Thanks (running through Marantz pre/pro if that matters any)
You're going to hear Oppo, then Panasonic. I'm probably going to switch from the Samsung to the Sony once I can get my hands on it. Oppos have always had bugs and I'm sure I'll get slammed for saying it. Reliability is most important, I'd rather every disc I stick in play than thick steel casing.

I'd really like to see/hear some unbiased comparisons between the players. Most people who spend $600 on a player are going to be determined to like it.
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Last edited by Dreamliner; 03-19-2017 at 12:30 PM.
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post #23083 of 32006 Old 03-19-2017, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rengozu View Post
So what's the consensus on the best UHD player setup to the RS600 now?

I had planned on getting the Oppo, but seemed there was still a lot of bugs to work out at launch so I'm still rocking the Samsung. Also heard some people were using the Panasonic and HD Fury with good results. Figured enough time had passed now to make a more informed upgrade. Thanks (running through Marantz pre/pro if that matters any)
Panni and HDfury Linker most stable combo...also get your DI back with Linker...
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post #23084 of 32006 Old 03-19-2017, 12:31 PM
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Just curious. Does nobody else see the brightness levels changing when they're using the Dynamic Iris or do they just not care?

I shut it off the day I got my projector because I didn't like it and thought something was broken every time a dark scene came up.
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post #23085 of 32006 Old 03-19-2017, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post
Just curious. Does nobody else see the brightness levels changing when they're using the Dynamic Iris or do they just not care?

I shut it off the day I got my projector because I didn't like it and thought something was broken every time a dark scene came up.
I see it, it bugs me, and despite trying both settings on multiple occasions over the last 6 months, I end up turning it off. I have been in touch with a few other respected members, whose knowledge and experience exceeds my relative beginner status, who also dislike it and turn it off, for whatever that's worth.

I don't know whether my setup shows it more, or if I'm just more aware of and bothered by it, but you're not alone.
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post #23086 of 32006 Old 03-19-2017, 01:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CLHDTV View Post
When I try to stream Netflix in HDR from my Roku Ultra to my JVC X750R I get projector lockups - the screen turns into multi-colored static, and the only way to restore the JVC is to restart the projector. I am using a 20 ft. run of BJC 1E, which Sound and Vision confirmed to work with HDR, and it passes HDR from my Oppo 203 just fine. (Both the Roku and the Oppo go through an Anthem AVM-60 and then to the JVC.)

Is anyone else having this problem with the Roku Ultra? Any solutions?

I am wiling to buy another streaming source to provide Netflix HDR if I can have some confidence that it will work with a 20 ft. cable run. (I also am willing to try the 20ft. Monoprice cable to see if this resolves the problem.) I know that the Sammy K8500 now will stream Netflix HDR. Is anyone streaming it over a 20 ft cable run to a JVC with success?

All suggestions greatly appreciated. Netflix HDR over the JVC with a custom curve looks incredible (for the brief time that I can watch it before a lockup) and I don't even have the Linker in the chain yet.

Thanks.

--Charlie
Quote:
Originally Posted by rak306 View Post
I had the same issue. Turn off the C.M.D. function in the JVC and try again. At 4k, the Roku does 60p which the JVC does not like with C.M.D. on.
CLHDTV and Rak - please have a look at my mp4 video and description of this HDMI "haywire" problem here: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-dig...l#post47778897 . Is that what your HDMI signal problem looks like when it happens?

rak - interesting I will see if CMD off avoids it, as I always use it on Low.

@Mike Garrett
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post #23087 of 32006 Old 03-19-2017, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave Vaughn View Post
What exact settings are you using:

Autoswitch: Enable/Disable
Priority: Normal/Forced
HDCP: 1.4/2.2
Scaling Mode: Down/Thru/Up
EDID Sink/Fixed/Custom

I'm just trying to nail mine down to the proper settings, but it's extremely inconsistent regardless of where I put it. Sadly, there are tons of audio dropouts if I place it between the Oppo and my projector.
Autoswitch: Disable
Priority: Not sure whatever the default is, I think Normal
HDCP 1.4
Scaling Thru
EDID for best results I set Custom to EDID 2 (or 8) and keep the slider in the middle position.

Try with the linker in between the UB900 and AVR. It may also require a strong HDMI cable to your projector. I'm using fiber.
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post #23088 of 32006 Old 03-19-2017, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post
CLHDTV and Rak - please have a look at my mp4 video and description of this HDMI "haywire" problem here: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-dig...l#post47778897 . Is that what your HDMI signal problem looks like when it happens?
...
Yes.
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post #23089 of 32006 Old 03-19-2017, 01:05 PM
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@lovingdvd

I'm using fiber as well. Regarding HDCP 1.4 versus 2.2...how are you getting HDR through 1.4?

David Vaughn Blu-ray Reviewer / Technical Writer Sound & Vision Magazine (Print & Online)
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post #23090 of 32006 Old 03-19-2017, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave Vaughn View Post
@lovingdvd

I'm using fiber as well. Regarding HDCP 1.4 versus 2.2...how are you getting HDR through 1.4?
HDCP 2.2 requires more bandwidth, unnecessarily. The Linker converts HDCP 2.2 to HDCP 1.4 and HDR works fine.

What HDR needs is HDMI 2.0a, not the protection (HDCP). You still have HDMI 2.0a even if you convert HDCP 2.2 to 1.4, you just less potential issues with protection and bandwidth.

All these settings are recommended in the post about setting up the linker that I wrote when the disable HDR was made available, for some reason no one seems to have read it.
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post #23091 of 32006 Old 03-19-2017, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
HDCP 2.2 requires more bandwidth, unnecessarily. The Linker converts HDCP 2.2 to HDCP 1.4 and HDR works fine.

What HDR needs is HDMI 2.0a, not the protection (HDCP). You still have HDMI 2.0a even if you convert HDCP 2.2 to 1.4, you just less potential issues with protection and bandwidth.

All these settings are recommended in the post about setting up the linker that I wrote when the disable HDR was made available, for some reason no one seems to have read it.
Brain fart...thanks Manni. I know that but wasn't thinking properly. Maybe that's the issue I'm having. I'll make the changes and see if I can get a solid lock.
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post #23092 of 32006 Old 03-19-2017, 02:24 PM
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I'm using fiber as well. Regarding HDCP 1.4 versus 2.2...how are you getting HDR through 1.4?
The Linker/Integral report HDCP 2.2 in the EDIDs they present to the players.

But they can convert HDCP 2.2 to 1.4 for output. No reason to run HDCP 2.2 on output since it is the player's responsibility to verify that it is connected to an HDCP 2.2 device. The display devices don't care and it is not their responsibility to enforce HDCP. HDCP 1.4 requires less handshaking than does 2.2 which is another good reason not to make HDMI handshaking more complicated than necessary. Set HDCP to 1.4 and forget it.

I have my Linker in front of my AVR and have both my Oppo and Samsung connected. So I need Autoswitched enabled and Forced. I have used forced since Integral days as it seems to prevent accidental switching between the two input sources. It makes no difference how it is set when Autoswitch is disabled.

I use Sink EDID with the Linker in front of my Denon AVR. When I placed it after the AVR, custom EDIDs 2 and 8 worked better.

CJ
JVC RS500|LG B7A OLED|Denon X6400H/X4200W|Panasonic UB820|Two Oppo 203|Samsung K8500|Apple TV 4K|HDfury Diva/Vertex/Linker/Integral
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post #23093 of 32006 Old 03-19-2017, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post
CLHDTV and Rak - please have a look at my mp4 video and description of this HDMI "haywire" problem here: Is that what your HDMI signal problem looks like when it happens?

rak - interesting I will see if CMD off avoids it, as I always use it on Low.

@Mike Garrett
The "hash" I get is a full screen of brightly colored lines. I have had CMD completely off since I got the projector, so my issue must be something different. I am going to try using the Samsung as a streamer as claw suggests, and see if that solves the problem.

I also will try taking the AVM-60 out of the chain with the Roku.

--Charlie
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post #23094 of 32006 Old 03-19-2017, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post
Mike - This same issue happened again tonight. I was planing Roger Waters The Wall 1080p Blu-ray in my UB900 and it was fine. I then switched inputs on my 8802a to cable TV and instead of seeing the TV show I was greeted with these scrolling lines again, exactly like before. Both times this has happened it has involved a concert Blu-ray. As a reminder, the first time was David Gilmour and it occurred when making a chapter selection within the Blu-ray menu.

I was willing to sweep the last one under the rug and chaulk it up as a fluke. However now we have a pattern and I would like to know what can be done about it. The last time to reset it I powered off and then pulled the power cord. This time I powered off and then it was straightned out once it came back on. Just like last time I tried everything possible (switching HDMI inputs, pulling/reinserting cables, changing sources etc) but it required a power cycle to fix it.

I did call JVC about the issue after it happened the first time. The gentleman I spoke to said he never heard of it and seemed to shrug it off (it was like humm never heard of it, oh well). I said I would email him a clip so they could look into it. I sent the clip then, which was on the 24th and never heard back.

Although something in the sources may be triggering the issue, clearly JVC needs to update something so that the projector does not get stuck in this situation where it has no way to recover short of a power cycle.

Please let me know what the next steps are. Thanks.
Problem is, we do not know where the problem is, since we have three pieces of equipment involved. Have you tried pulling just the HDMI cable from the projector and waiting 10 minutes. If it clears up the problem, then it is not the projector. Something else is causing the HDMI lockup.
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post #23095 of 32006 Old 03-19-2017, 03:20 PM
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Just curious. Does nobody else see the brightness levels changing when they're using the Dynamic Iris or do they just not care?

I shut it off the day I got my projector because I didn't like it and thought something was broken every time a dark scene came up.
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I see it, it bugs me, and despite trying both settings on multiple occasions over the last 6 months, I end up turning it off. I have been in touch with a few other respected members, whose knowledge and experience exceeds my relative beginner status, who also dislike it and turn it off, for whatever that's worth.

I don't know whether my setup shows it more, or if I'm just more aware of and bothered by it, but you're not alone.
I understand why people like the dynamic iris. It definitely helps with fade-to-black.

Personally, I find it distracting pretty much everywhere else it is active (both on setting 1 and 2), and I tend to leave it off.
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post #23096 of 32006 Old 03-19-2017, 03:43 PM
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I'm the same way with the DI. I find it more bothersome than helpful, but will try and live with it for a week or so and see if I get used to it.
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post #23097 of 32006 Old 03-19-2017, 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by claw View Post
The Linker/Integral report HDCP 2.2 in the EDIDs they present to the players.

But they can convert HDCP 2.2 to 1.4 for output. No reason to run HDCP 2.2 on output since it is the player's responsibility to verify that it is connected to an HDCP 2.2 device. The display devices don't care and it is not their responsibility to enforce HDCP. HDCP 1.4 requires less handshaking than does 2.2 which is another good reason not to make HDMI handshaking more complicated than necessary. Set HDCP to 1.4 and forget it.

I have my Linker in front of my AVR and have both my Oppo and Samsung connected. So I need Autoswitched enabled and Forced. I have used forced since Integral days as it seems to prevent accidental switching between the two input sources. It makes no difference how it is set when Autoswitch is disabled.

I use Sink EDID with the Linker in front of my Denon AVR. When I placed it after the AVR, custom EDIDs 2 and 8 worked better.
Claw...thanks for the tips. Have you had any audio dropouts? I had quite a few, which was annoying.

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post #23098 of 32006 Old 03-19-2017, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by roxiedog13 View Post
Actually, glad you mentioned that about being easy to sell the JVC. I actually thought about selling the JVC to buy the 675 so I put it on the list many places including the one here. I've had very few inquiries, the only ones pursuing aggressively are making low ball offers of 50% or less on a machine with less than 200 hours, has the spare lamp emitter and glasses .

OTOH ,When I sold my Sony VW600ES the traffic was relentless, I got more than what I wanted . In fact, I had people offering more than my asking price thinking they had lost the sale and I was playing them.

Like you I thought the JVC would be an easy sell but that doesn't reflect the reality now does it. I got way more for the VW600 than any offers thus far on the RS600 . Go figure.

To be honest I was nervous about letting it go anyway, I really like the projector and it is growing on my the longer I hang on. I'm going to wait for others to review the 675 first and see how that goes, more than likely I will just wait until next year.
I've moved on to other projects now anyway and that project is quickly eating up my upgrade budget .
For me it was the opposite. Made more money selling my RS600 than I did for my VW600. RS600 also sold much quicker. I all just comes down to timing. With the closeouts on the RS600, it probably is harder to sell at a decent price, right now.
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post #23099 of 32006 Old 03-19-2017, 04:52 PM
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I'm the same way with the DI. I find it more bothersome than helpful, but will try and live with it for a week or so and see if I get used to it.
I only notice it with credits and sub-titles. I did get into a scene once that was varying wildly in brightness... just pulsing up and down. I thought there was something wrong with the bulb/power supply. But turning off the DI solved it. I couldn't get it to repeat on the scene, though... like the DI software had a crash or something.
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post #23100 of 32006 Old 03-19-2017, 05:00 PM
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The only times I notice the autoiris working is during fades to black...and I like it! but, does anybody really know the difference between setting 1 and 2? I, like many others, am unable to notice any difference.
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