Official JVC RS600 / RS500 (X950R / X750R - X9000 / X7000) Owners Thread - Page 771 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #23101 of 32133 Old 03-19-2017, 05:47 PM
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While verifying some metadata reported from my Linker vs Integral as requested by ConnecTEDDD, I learned that the Linker adds four bytes at the beginning of the metadata string that the Integral does not.

So anyone updating the metadata sheet with data obtained from an Integral will need to add 12 blank characters at the beginning of the cell. At least temporarily.

And the CNTRL-A, CNTRL-X cut and paste commands don't work any better for me in the Linker than Select All, CNTRL-C. But either works perfectly in the Integral.

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post #23102 of 32133 Old 03-19-2017, 06:58 PM
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A quick question guys. If I have Iris at 0 with Auto on, does it make any perceivable difference with contrast vs having it on -8? I know that when I have it set to -8 in Auto, projector won't open it beyond -8. But if I do have it on 0 with Auto, where do I loose the contrast when Auto closes the aperture in Mid/Low apl scenes?
thx
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post #23103 of 32133 Old 03-20-2017, 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by rak306 View Post
I had the same issue. Turn off the C.M.D. function in the JVC and try again. At 4k, the Roku does 60p which the JVC does not like with C.M.D. on.
Is this true just for the Roku or other sources? Thanks. SJ
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post #23104 of 32133 Old 03-20-2017, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by DLCPhoto View Post
First, how much do I "need" for this purpose? Your advice to double it is reasonable, but with little background in electrical engineering, I don't know how to determine what that baseline need is, or what number I need to double.

Second, again acknowledging my electrical engineering ignorance, I have read posts from some who have suggested that "pure sine wave" and voltage regulation had questionable practical relevance or scientific credibility, at least with the current in countries like the U.S. I am just confessing my ignorance here, not expressing an opinion. Do these features really provide anything worthwhile in the context where it would be used in my setup?
First let me ask you this, are power failures common? You're probably fine, I've had power fail a couple times over a number of years and there's never been any ill effects. If power failures are rare, perhaps the cost/trouble of a UPS is not justified.

That said, if I was getting one for my equipment, I'd make sure it was a "pure" sine wave UPS. Not that that will make the picture better or improve performance, but the amount of noise that PC power supplies make when running on a "cheap" step sine wave or approximated sine wave UPS would makes me uncomfortable to run my $5000+ projector off of.

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Originally Posted by DLCPhoto View Post
I see it, it bugs me, and despite trying both settings on multiple occasions over the last 6 months, I end up turning it off. I have been in touch with a few other respected members, whose knowledge and experience exceeds my relative beginner status, who also dislike it and turn it off, for whatever that's worth.

I don't know whether my setup shows it more, or if I'm just more aware of and bothered by it, but you're not alone.
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Originally Posted by Dave Vaughn View Post
I'm the same way with the DI. I find it more bothersome than helpful, but will try and live with it for a week or so and see if I get used to it.
I always run the DI, the only time I ever notice it is on credits/subtitles, I never see it on real content.
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post #23105 of 32133 Old 03-20-2017, 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by stanger89 View Post
First let me ask you this, are power failures common? You're probably fine, I've had power fail a couple times over a number of years and there's never been any ill effects. If power failures are rare, perhaps the cost/trouble of a UPS is not justified.

That said, if I was getting one for my equipment, I'd make sure it was a "pure" sine wave UPS. Not that that will make the picture better or improve performance, but the amount of noise that PC power supplies make when running on a "cheap" step sine wave or approximated sine wave UPS would makes me uncomfortable to run my $5000+ projector off of.
I run my projector off of a UPS. Not sure if it is pure sine wave. Anyway, I have seen some video noise occasionally when running 4K60 signals. Never happens with 4K24. In working the issue, I wondered whether my UPS could be the issue? Might unplug as really we don't have many power outages. SJ
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post #23106 of 32133 Old 03-20-2017, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by stanger89 View Post
First let me ask you this, are power failures common? You're probably fine, I've had power fail a couple times over a number of years and there's never been any ill effects. If power failures are rare, perhaps the cost/trouble of a UPS is not justified.

That said, if I was getting one for my equipment, I'd make sure it was a "pure" sine wave UPS. Not that that will make the picture better or improve performance, but the amount of noise that PC power supplies make when running on a "cheap" step sine wave or approximated sine wave UPS would makes me uncomfortable to run my $5000+ projector off of.
Not common, but not really rare either. Especially in the summer months, with thunderstorms, when they're more common. I just really don't like taking risks that can be avoided if possible.

I ended up picking up the CyberPower LX1100G at BJ's for $99.99, normally sells for $129.99. Spec-wise it seems pretty good, and I don't think it would fall in the "cheap" category. Whether this was a wise choice, or a poor choice, I don't really know. I guess time will tell...

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Originally Posted by stanger89 View Post
I always run the DI, the only time I ever notice it is on credits/subtitles, I never see it on real content.
You and many others have said this, and it really puzzles me. Perhaps the RS500/RS600 series does a better job than my RS400, but it is consistently an issue for me in many low APL scenes, where the brightness clearly fluctuates, for no good reason. It would be interesting to watch something with somebody like you, in a room like yours, and see if it's just not there, or if I'm just more sensitive to it. With you in IL, and me in NC, this is problematic!

Thanks again for the reply and suggestions.

Don

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post #23107 of 32133 Old 03-20-2017, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by DLCPhoto View Post
Not common, but not really rare either. Especially in the summer months, with thunderstorms, when they're more common. I just really don't like taking risks that can be avoided if possible.

I ended up picking up the CyberPower LX1100G at BJ's for $99.99, normally sells for $129.99. Spec-wise it seems pretty good, and I don't think it would fall in the "cheap" category. Whether this was a wise choice, or a poor choice, I don't really know. I guess time will tell...



You and many others have said this, and it really puzzles me. Perhaps the RS500/RS600 series does a better job than my RS400, but it is consistently an issue for me in many low APL scenes, where the brightness clearly fluctuates, for no good reason. It would be interesting to watch something with somebody like you, in a room like yours, and see if it's just not there, or if I'm just more sensitive to it. With you in IL, and me in NC, this is problematic!

Thanks again for the reply and suggestions.

Don
I've been using the CyberPower CP1000 for three years. I never had a power failure issue during a movie, but it's worked well and when I do lose power it always informs me.

Regarding your noticing the auto iris; I see two possibilities: your eye is more sensitive to gamma/brightness shifts and/or with the RS400 higher black floor (especially assuming your iris is open wide for your very large screen) there are more "steps" for it to have to close down that become more noticeable compared to people with the RS500/600 who have a lower black floor (thus fewer steps for the auto iris to close) in addition to their smaller screens which allow them to close the manual iris down even more so for even better black level.

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post #23108 of 32133 Old 03-20-2017, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by CLHDTV View Post
When I try to stream Netflix in HDR from my Roku Ultra to my JVC X750R I get projector lockups - the screen turns into multi-colored static, and the only way to restore the JVC is to restart the projector. I am using a 20 ft. run of BJC 1E, which Sound and Vision confirmed to work with HDR, and it passes HDR from my Oppo 203 just fine. (Both the Roku and the Oppo go through an Anthem AVM-60 and then to the JVC.)

Is anyone else having this problem with the Roku Ultra? Any solutions?
I also sometimes get this with the Roku (snow with some read and green), but putting my Lumagen Radiance into standby and back on fixes it. My system is similar but with the Radiance:

Roku Ultra -> Monoprice 10' Certified Premium -> Radiance Pro -> Monoprice 10' Certified Premium -> Anthem MRX-1120 -> Monoprice 40' Cabernet -> RS600.

Have you tried putting the Anthem into standby and then back on to see if that cures it? (as a band aid for now, that at least is remote controllable)

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post #23109 of 32133 Old 03-20-2017, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by DavidHir View Post
I've been using the CyberPower CP1000 for three years. I never had a power failure issue during a movie, but it's worked well and when I do lose power it always informs me.

Regarding your noticing the auto iris; I see two possibilities: your eye is more sensitive to gamma/brightness shifts and/or with the RS400 higher black floor (especially assuming your iris is open wide for your very large screen) there are more "steps" for it to have to close down that become more noticeable compared to people with the RS500/600 who have a lower black floor (thus fewer steps for the auto iris to close) in addition to their smaller screens which allow them to close the manual iris down even more so for even better black level.
Thanks for the reply, David.

I see the CyberPower unit you have has 'true' Sine wave and 'Active PFC' compatibility. Do you think this is a practical consideration for use with JVC Projectors. Do the JVC's Power Supply have 'Active PFC'? I can return the unit to BJ's and get a pure sine wave unit such as your if this is a significant issue, for this particular application.

As for the DI issue, I actually have my Aperture at -8 for viewing regular Blu-ray. I have tried it at -0 as well, with both DI Auto settings, to see if it made any difference, but the brightness shifts that bother me were seen equally despite the DI Auto setting, or the Aperture. It may just be my sensitivity to this type of phenomenon.
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post #23110 of 32133 Old 03-20-2017, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by rak306 View Post
I had the same issue. Turn off the C.M.D. function in the JVC and try again. At 4k, the Roku does 60p which the JVC does not like with C.M.D. on.
@Mike Garrett That makes a half dozen users that have said they have the same HDMI haywire issue as me on occassion and must power cycle the unit to stop it, with 3 users reporting it within the past few weeks, including another user that said the problem happens a lot with the Roku when HDR is engaged, and I have noted earlier that this definitely makes the issue more prominent in my case (50%+ of the time going into or out of HDR from the Netflix will trigger this, but not into or out of HDR from 4K UHD - probably because it is 4k24 where as the content that is triggering it is 4k60 - which also ties back into what Rak306 is saying). Does JVC still think this is a fluke hardware issue in rare units? As I said from the start it smells like a software / firmware glitch that is triggered by a certain set of conditions.
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post #23111 of 32133 Old 03-20-2017, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by DLCPhoto View Post
Thanks for the reply, David.

I see the CyberPower unit you have has 'true' Sine wave and 'Active PFC' compatibility. Do you think this is a practical consideration for use with JVC Projectors. Do the JVC's Power Supply have 'Active PFC'? I can return the unit to BJ's and get a pure sine wave unit such as your if this is a significant issue, for this particular application.

As for the DI issue, I actually have my Aperture at -8 for viewing regular Blu-ray. I have tried it at -0 as well, with both DI Auto settings, to see if it made any difference, but the brightness shifts that bother me were seen equally despite the DI Auto setting, or the Aperture. It may just be my sensitivity to this type of phenomenon.
I'm not a real expert with power, but from some reading I did the true sign wave is the best/safest route. Does it really make a difference? Who knows.
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post #23112 of 32133 Old 03-20-2017, 08:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CLHDTV View Post
When I try to stream Netflix in HDR from my Roku Ultra to my JVC X750R I get projector lockups - the screen turns into multi-colored static, and the only way to restore the JVC is to restart the projector. I am using a 20 ft. run of BJC 1E, which Sound and Vision confirmed to work with HDR, and it passes HDR from my Oppo 203 just fine. (Both the Roku and the Oppo go through an Anthem AVM-60 and then to the JVC.)

Is anyone else having this problem with the Roku Ultra? Any solutions?

I am wiling to buy another streaming source to provide Netflix HDR if I can have some confidence that it will work with a 20 ft. cable run. (I also am willing to try the 20ft. Monoprice cable to see if this resolves the problem.) I know that the Sammy K8500 now will stream Netflix HDR. Is anyone streaming it over a 20 ft cable run to a JVC with success?

All suggestions greatly appreciated. Netflix HDR over the JVC with a custom curve looks incredible (for the brief time that I can watch it before a lockup) and I don't even have the Linker in the chain yet.

Thanks.

--Charlie
Can you take a picture or video of what the screen looks like when the HDMI goes haywire on you? I've seen two versions of this myself. One is a scratchy/squilling looking set of lines that scroll vertically. Another version is a more static set of lines which are very vivid in color that fill the screen, like a vivid rainbow (color-wise) but the lines are straight.
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post #23113 of 32133 Old 03-20-2017, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by krichter1 View Post
BTW - quick Arve Utility question if someone can answer...

I assume I did this correctly (for the above test), but just to be sure... I saved my calibration to a file before doing my "dark test", so all I need to do after launching the tool is use the 'load gamma from file' option to restore my saved gamma config (or for reloading a number of diff saved sessions for diff content any time I want)? Do I have this right?
Yes like asharma said. This gives us the ability to save as many different curves to our PC/laptop as we want and then load them into the tool and send them to the pj or tweak them. Very handy especially for these early testing days. Eventually I think each one of us will wind up settling on one or two "go-to" curves for all their viewing, in which case it won't be needed much since these will just be stored in custom 1-3. But for now it's been very useful.
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post #23114 of 32133 Old 03-20-2017, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post
@Mike Garrett That makes a half dozen users that have said they have the same HDMI haywire issue as me on occassion and must power cycle the unit to stop it, with 3 users reporting it within the past few weeks, including another user that said the problem happens a lot with the Roku when HDR is engaged, and I have noted earlier that this definitely makes the issue more prominent in my case (50%+ of the time going into or out of HDR from the Netflix will trigger this, but not into or out of HDR from 4K UHD - probably because it is 4k24 where as the content that is triggering it is 4k60 - which also ties back into what Rak306 is saying). Does JVC still think this is a fluke hardware issue in rare units? As I said from the start it smells like a software / firmware glitch that is triggered by a certain set of conditions.
Shoot me an email on this so that I can forward to my JVC contact. Also list everything in your HDMI chain. A lot of people have had problems with 4K with Roku. So much so, that I will not buy one.
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post #23115 of 32133 Old 03-20-2017, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike Garrett View Post
Problem is, we do not know where the problem is, since we have three pieces of equipment involved. Have you tried pulling just the HDMI cable from the projector and waiting 10 minutes. If it clears up the problem, then it is not the projector. Something else is causing the HDMI lockup.
Hi Mike - The quote you were responding to was from several months ago - I just referenced that for the user who posted they had the same issue. You can pull the cable and sit there fore 15 minutes - doesn't matter. I've tried every trick I could think of to break it out of the haywire state because I do not like to power cycle the unit not to mention its inconvenience. As mentioned then, there is NOTHING that can be done to restore the pj once the HDMI goes haywire, short of power cycling it (do not need to pull the plug, just power off and back on). As I've said from the beginning, there seems to be some set of conditions that sends the HDMI haywire and that it is a software/firmware bug IMO. Even if there someone is an invalid signal that get sent, the unit should be able to at least recover by removing the HDMI input/signal.
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post #23116 of 32133 Old 03-20-2017, 09:10 AM
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UPS for JVC Projectors - Active PFC Power Supply?

In researching options for a UPS for a JVC Projector (RS400 in my case), many have recommended a "true" sine wave unit, rather than a "simulated" one. Naturally the price is higher, but not egregiously so.

The reading I've done so far indicates that if a given device has "Active PFC" built into it, then it doesn't 'get along' with UPS units that have 'simulated' sine wave output. So, does anybody know if the JVC RS400/RS500/RS600 series do in fact have "Active PFC" in their power supplies?

If they do, I'll return the unit I just bought, and get a true sine wave unit ($150 vs $100 for the VA rating in the 1000 to 1100 range).

Are there are other 'real-world' factors here that would argue for the superiority of "pure" sine wave units for this particular application?

I like my decisions to be as evidence-based as possible; it's all too easy to over-spend for items that don't really provide any real-world or practical benefit (e.g. 'high-end' speaker cables and that sort of thing!).

But if there is actual benefit, then I don't mind spending a bit more.

Thanks.

Don

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post #23117 of 32133 Old 03-20-2017, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Dave Vaughn View Post
I'm the same way with the DI. I find it more bothersome than helpful, but will try and live with it for a week or so and see if I get used to it.
Interesting. I never notice the auto iris working (unless I go looking on purpose) except on fade to black scenes. I am sure it is working in various low APL scenes. And I use it on Auto1 which I understand is the more aggressive setting. I'd make it even more aggressive if I could (with the Sony you could tweak this in the service menu but I don't think you can in the JVC service menu?). I try not to focus on it so that I don't see it. Just like with DLP and rainbows - I never "learned" to look for them because then I'd probably see it all the time. I'd encourage you to use the DI and try to get used to it and not focus on it too much.
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post #23118 of 32133 Old 03-20-2017, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike Garrett View Post
Shoot me an email on this so that I can forward to my JVC contact. Also list everything in your HDMI chain. A lot of people have had problems with 4K with Roku. So much so, that I will not buy one.
Thanks. Please go through all my previous emails on the subject and let me know if there is anything in particularly you would like to know that I haven't already described in my previous emails on it. Most recently I had the Roku Ultra connected at 4k60 4K HDR from Netflix direct to the RS500 for testing (no AVR in the chain) over a 6' HD Fury 4K HDMI cable and half the time that the Roku either switched into or switched out of HDR it would trigger the rainbow haywire HDMI problem. I'll look to see if I took a picture of it and post it here if I can find it. This is different looking on the screen that the other vertical scrolling haywire HDMI issue that I showed in that video. CMD was on Low.
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post #23119 of 32133 Old 03-20-2017, 09:31 AM
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...
CMD was on Low.
With the Roku on 4k HDR, (which is 60p), and CMD on low, (through marantz 7702mark II), my JVC RS600 always fails to sync and usually locks up.

Changing CMD to off, and it almost always syncs, and never locks up.
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post #23120 of 32133 Old 03-20-2017, 09:33 AM
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With the Roku on 4k HDR, (which is 60p), and CMD on low, (through marantz 7702mark II), my JVC RS600 always fails to sync and usually locks up.
For my Roku HDR to work, I had to turn CMD off.. when I had it on, I would get lines across the screen
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post #23121 of 32133 Old 03-20-2017, 09:55 AM
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@Mike Garrett That makes a half dozen users that have said they have the same HDMI haywire issue as me on occassion and must power cycle the unit to stop it, with 3 users reporting it within the past few weeks, including another user that said the problem happens a lot with the Roku when HDR is engaged, and I have noted earlier that this definitely makes the issue more prominent in my case (50%+ of the time going into or out of HDR from the Netflix will trigger this, but not into or out of HDR from 4K UHD - probably because it is 4k24 where as the content that is triggering it is 4k60 - which also ties back into what Rak306 is saying). Does JVC still think this is a fluke hardware issue in rare units? As I said from the start it smells like a software / firmware glitch that is triggered by a certain set of conditions.
I just ran into this same thing with my Roku Premiere+. I was watching HDR shows yesterday without problem, and today it is not syncing after it shows the initial Roku screen, when I try to go into Netflix. I'm still trying to get it to re-sync. Just power cycled the whole system, and will see if I can get it going.

JVC RS400, Marantz SR7010, Screen Innovations 160" 2.35:1 Screen
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post #23122 of 32133 Old 03-20-2017, 09:58 AM
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As for the DI issue, I actually have my Aperture at -8 for viewing regular Blu-ray. I have tried it at -0 as well, with both DI Auto settings, to see if it made any difference, but the brightness shifts that bother me were seen equally despite the DI Auto setting, or the Aperture. It may just be my sensitivity to this type of phenomenon.
I see it on my RS500 as well.

I mean, in a sense, if you don't notice it, then it's not really adding anything, right???

But seriously, JVC does pretty good at masking it. Most people only notice it on credits. But some of us see that same behavior on real content and it is distracting. I mean, these projectors already have a huge native on/off contrast. It's not like the old days when a DI was needed to bridge the gap with film projection.

It's great they give us the option to goose up on/off contrast. For me, the way it changes the feeling of ANSI contrast, and changes the look of highlights in low APL scenes, is distracting.

But I'm the kind of person that notices shifting black levels from local dimming on full array local dimming flat panels, too.

It's one of the those picture elements that, once you see it, you can never unsee it.
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post #23123 of 32133 Old 03-20-2017, 10:09 AM
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For my Roku HDR to work, I had to turn CMD off.. when I had it on, I would get lines across the screen
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I just ran into this same thing with my Roku Premiere+. I was watching HDR shows yesterday without problem, and today it is not syncing after it shows the initial Roku screen, when I try to go into Netflix. I'm still trying to get it to re-sync. Just power cycled the whole system, and will see if I can get it going.
Thanks guys. Does your HDMI haywire condition look like this? http://vid177.photobucket.com/albums...psdqvwwg6m.mp4
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post #23124 of 32133 Old 03-20-2017, 10:14 AM
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Hi Mike - The quote you were responding to was from several months ago - I just referenced that for the user who posted they had the same issue. You can pull the cable and sit there fore 15 minutes - doesn't matter. I've tried every trick I could think of to break it out of the haywire state because I do not like to power cycle the unit not to mention its inconvenience. As mentioned then, there is NOTHING that can be done to restore the pj once the HDMI goes haywire, short of power cycling it (do not need to pull the plug, just power off and back on). As I've said from the beginning, there seems to be some set of conditions that sends the HDMI haywire and that it is a software/firmware bug IMO. Even if there someone is an invalid signal that get sent, the unit should be able to at least recover by removing the HDMI input/signal.
Okay. You said it has happened twice now. Please shoot me an email with description of problem and all the pieces in your HDMI chain, for me to forward to JVC.
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post #23125 of 32133 Old 03-20-2017, 10:38 AM
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Thanks guys. Does your HDMI haywire condition look like this? http://vid177.photobucket.com/albums...psdqvwwg6m.mp4
Greetings,

Yes, I have had the same problem with the Roku/4K60/HDR/Netflix/Amazon, with my RS500, with CMD on low. Turning CMD off resolved the issue.


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post #23126 of 32133 Old 03-20-2017, 10:43 AM
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Thanks guys. Does your HDMI haywire condition look like this? http://vid177.photobucket.com/albums...psdqvwwg6m.mp4
yes.... turn CMD off should do the trick
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post #23127 of 32133 Old 03-20-2017, 10:46 AM
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Greetings,

Yes, I have had the same problem with the Roku/4K60/HDR/Netflix/Amazon, with my RS500, with CMD on low. Turning CMD off resolved the issue.


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Okay. You said it has happened twice now. Please shoot me an email with description of problem and all the pieces in your HDMI chain, for me to forward to JVC.
It's happened a lot more than twice. Interestingly people are coming out of the woodwork now to report the same thing. That's 4 today if my count is correct. Remember when JVC thought it was a hardware issue? As I said then and now, I don't think so. I'll send you an email in a few minutes.

For those of you who having the issue - is this something that was talked about here some time ago? Or did all of you just happened to figure out on your own that turning of CMD resolved the issue? Impressive. I would have never of thought to try that!
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post #23128 of 32133 Old 03-20-2017, 10:49 AM
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I posted this problem about 2-3 weeks back and someone told me to turn off CMD... So it has come up before...

my setup:

Roku premier -> Marantz av7703 -> JVC x750
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post #23129 of 32133 Old 03-20-2017, 10:54 AM
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It's happened a lot more than twice. Interestingly people are coming out of the woodwork now to report the same thing. That's 4 today if my count is correct. Remember when JVC thought it was a hardware issue? As I said then and now, I don't think so. I'll send you an email in a few minutes.

For those of you who having the issue - is this something that was talked about here some time ago? Or did all of you just happened to figure out on your own that turning of CMD resolved the issue? Impressive. I would have never of thought to try that!
Greetings,

I was frustrated by it and stopped using the Roku for 4K/HDR. I went looking for answers and didn't find much until I turned up members in this thread that had the same problem, and suggested the fix. I had a problem using the Samsung K8500 UHD player with 4K HDR streaming as well, but the outcome there was a black screen after watching the content. Powering the player on and off resolved that. With the Roku, the only solution to the red/green/blue lines condition, was to power cycle the projector.


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post #23130 of 32133 Old 03-20-2017, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post
It's happened a lot more than twice. Interestingly people are coming out of the woodwork now to report the same thing. That's 4 today if my count is correct. Remember when JVC thought it was a hardware issue? As I said then and now, I don't think so. I'll send you an email in a few minutes.

For those of you who having the issue - is this something that was talked about here some time ago? Or did all of you just happened to figure out on your own that turning of CMD resolved the issue? Impressive. I would have never of thought to try that!
Anybody that has the Samsung player. Do you have any problem displaying the menu (no disc loaded) with CMD on? If not then the problem is not the projector. Samsung menu is 4K 60 4:4:4. This is placing max load on the cable, so you will have to have a cable that can do 18Gbps. Roku is buggy as can be. So I do not know why you would think the projector has a problem rather than the Roku. The projector only displays what it receives. So if the signal is sent properly, then the projector can't know the difference between one (Samsung) 4K 60 4:4:4 signal and another (Roku). In other words, it can't play one correctly and the other incorrectly, if both are sending the correct signal.
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