Official JVC RS600 / RS500 (X950R / X750R - X9000 / X7000) Owners Thread - Page 772 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #23131 of 31987 Old 03-20-2017, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by DavidHir View Post
I've been using the CyberPower CP1000 for three years. I never had a power failure issue during a movie, but it's worked well and when I do lose power it always informs me.

Regarding your noticing the auto iris; I see two possibilities: your eye is more sensitive to gamma/brightness shifts and/or with the RS400 higher black floor (especially assuming your iris is open wide for your very large screen) there are more "steps" for it to have to close down that become more noticeable compared to people with the RS500/600 who have a lower black floor (thus fewer steps for the auto iris to close) in addition to their smaller screens which allow them to close the manual iris down even more so for even better black level.
I think you are correct - when I watched my RS600, I had the manual iris at -8, and never saw the auto iris. With my RS4500, with the manual iris also at -8, I rarely see the laser dimming ( itself a form of auto iris ). With the manual iris wide open, I can see the laser dimming more frequently.
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post #23132 of 31987 Old 03-20-2017, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post
Thanks guys. Does your HDMI haywire condition look like this? http://vid177.photobucket.com/albums...psdqvwwg6m.mp4
Yes, that's it.

I power cycled the whole theater, and also turned CMD off, as some have suggested that this might be the source of the problem.

I was then able to reconnect and sync without problem.

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post #23133 of 31987 Old 03-20-2017, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post
Can you take a picture or video of what the screen looks like when the HDMI goes haywire on you? I've seen two versions of this myself. One is a scratchy/squilling looking set of lines that scroll vertically. Another version is a more static set of lines which are very vivid in color that fill the screen, like a vivid rainbow (color-wise) but the lines are straight.
The first pattern, which you show in that video, is what I see when I try to load Netflix.

If I then switch inputs on my Marantz SR7010, to try and re-establish Sync, I then got what sounds like the second pattern - very vivid colors, straight lines, sometimes some grainy like areas along the top vertical edge of the picture. I was trying to 're-establish' sync, but this wouldn't work. Had to turn the PJ off and then on again to re-sync.

As I said above, turning CMD off seemed to do the trick.

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post #23134 of 31987 Old 03-20-2017, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike Garrett View Post
Anybody that has the Samsung player. Do you have any problem displaying the menu (no disc loaded) with CMD on? If not then the problem is not the projector. Samsung menu is 4K 60 4:4:4. This is placing max load on the cable, so you will have to have a cable that can do 18Gbps. Roku is buggy as can be. So I do not know why you would think the projector has a problem rather than the Roku. The projector only displays what it receives. So if the signal is sent properly, then the projector can't know the difference between one (Samsung) 4K 60 4:4:4 signal and another (Roku). In other words, it can't play one correctly and the other incorrectly, if both are sending the correct signal.
I have both the samsung and oppo 4k bluray and both of them work on my setup, but only after to went to the BJC 25 feet hdmi cable. I couldn't get 4k to work on previous hdmi cable and I'm running 25 ft+

https://www.amazon.com/High-Speed-Ca...+hdmi+cable+25
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post #23135 of 31987 Old 03-20-2017, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Garrett View Post
Anybody that has the Samsung player. Do you have any problem displaying the menu (no disc loaded) with CMD on? If not then the problem is not the projector. Samsung menu is 4K 60 4:4:4. This is placing max load on the cable, so you will have to have a cable that can do 18Gbps. Roku is buggy as can be. So I do not know why you would think the projector has a problem rather than the Roku. The projector only displays what it receives. So if the signal is sent properly, then the projector can't know the difference between one (Samsung) 4K 60 4:4:4 signal and another (Roku). In other words, it can't play one correctly and the other incorrectly, if both are sending the correct signal.
It's definitely not the JVC because JVC has moved on to the RS620 and is not about to do another firmware update or admit it's their issue.

But seriously, 4k hdr from the Roku is 2160p60 4:2:2 12 bit, a legal full bandwidth signal, and not 4:4:4 8 bit. So showing the Samsung works is not relevant, as the format is different.

Besides, the fact that turning off CMD "fixes" the issue ought to tell you where the problem lies.
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post #23136 of 31987 Old 03-20-2017, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Garrett View Post
Anybody that has the Samsung player. Do you have any problem displaying the menu (no disc loaded) with CMD on? If not then the problem is not the projector. Samsung menu is 4K 60 4:4:4. This is placing max load on the cable, so you will have to have a cable that can do 18Gbps. Roku is buggy as can be. So I do not know why you would think the projector has a problem rather than the Roku. The projector only displays what it receives. So if the signal is sent properly, then the projector can't know the difference between one (Samsung) 4K 60 4:4:4 signal and another (Roku). In other words, it can't play one correctly and the other incorrectly, if both are sending the correct signal.
We are going in circles. It doesn't matter what CAUSES the problem - under no circumstances should the JVC HDMI completely freeze up and not be recoverable without power cycling the unit, short of a defect in it's software or firmware, which should be fixed. Yes JVC may not be able to prevent the signal from dropping out or not showing up, but their projector should be able to recover from the condition more gracefully. The fix we are asking for is just that - so we don't have to power cycle the unit to get it working again once it goes haywire.

In my case I have the UB900 which does put out 4K 60 444 for its Home screen, which I can display just fine on the projector. And as I mentioned, this is NOT just in the case of the Roku. It has happened about 1-2 times a month (with every day projector usage) when switching between the UB900 and Comcast X1 STB with the Roku not even in the chain at the time, as I reported here back in October. When you ask why are we blaming the projector when Roku is so buggy (which it is!), THAT is why - it is not confined to the Roku. Tho that said, the Roku definitely triggers it to happen more often. And also as I said, in any event, the projector needs to be able to handle such a case more gracefully instead of going haywire.
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post #23137 of 31987 Old 03-20-2017, 11:33 AM
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@jarrod1937 - Lots of discussion here today (see the posts here going back to yesterday) about the HDMI haywire issue you encountered, that we talked about here a few weeks back. You had some good insights so I wanted to invite you to review what's been posted and join in. Thanks!
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post #23138 of 31987 Old 03-20-2017, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post
We are going in circles. It doesn't matter what CAUSES the problem - under no circumstances should the JVC HDMI completely freeze up and not be recoverable without power cycling the unit, short of a defect in it's software or firmware, which should be fixed.
...
I agree, when this happens, the JVC is stuck, and even removing the cable, and repluging into a 1080i, or 720p signal won't help. Only a power cycle gets it back. That is a JVC bug plain and simple. It may not be fixable though.
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post #23139 of 31987 Old 03-20-2017, 11:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post
We are going in circles. It doesn't matter what CAUSES the problem - under no circumstances should the JVC HDMI completely freeze up and not be recoverable without power cycling the unit, short of a defect in it's software or firmware, which should be fixed. Yes JVC may not be able to prevent the signal from dropping out or not showing up, but their projector should be able to recover from the condition more gracefully. The fix we are asking for is just that - so we don't have to power cycle the unit to get it working again once it goes haywire.

In my case I have the UB900 which does put out 4K 60 444 for its Home screen, which I can display just fine on the projector. And as I mentioned, this is NOT just in the case of the Roku. It has happened about 1-2 times a month (with every day projector usage) when switching between the UB900 and Comcast X1 STB with the Roku not even in the chain at the time, as I reported here back in October. When you ask why are we blaming the projector when Roku is so buggy (which it is!), THAT is why - it is not confined to the Roku. Tho that said, the Roku definitely triggers it to happen more often. And also as I said, in any event, the projector needs to be able to handle such a case more gracefully instead of going haywire.
In your summary to me, you left out that this has also occurred with other sources. You only listed the Roku. I will update info to JVC.
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post #23140 of 31987 Old 03-20-2017, 12:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Garrett View Post
In your summary to me, you left out that this has also occurred with other sources. You only listed the Roku. I will update info to JVC.
Mike it's in my email to you - this paragraph:
Quote:
That issue happens to me about 50% of the time I switch into or out of HDR on the Roku Ultra. HOWEVER it has also happened on occasion (about 1-2 times a month with every day use) when switching between the UB900 and my Comcast X1 STB. You can read about that history in our email exchanges below and as posted on AVS back in October.
Also Rak makes an excellent point - the fact that turning off CMD prevents the issue - at least in the case of the Roku (I cannot say in the switching between UB900 and Comcast because it happens rarely and I always just leave CMD Low) - proves that it is a problem with the JVC. And like I've been saying, even if the JVC is not the cause of the problem, they need to make it fail more gracefully so that I power cycle is not required to fix it. Thank you.
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post #23141 of 31987 Old 03-20-2017, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post
Mike it's in my email to you - this paragraph:
JVC has it twice then.
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post #23142 of 31987 Old 03-20-2017, 02:21 PM
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I have CMD set to Low in my RS500. I don't have a Roku (and never will again after the disaster that the Roku 4 was.)

I have no problem with my Samsung player at 4K60 4:4:4 8-bit.
I have no problem with my Oppo sending 4K60 4:2:2 12-bit when playing the Billy Lynn disc.
Both of these signals are at the 17.8 Gbps maximum.

I had video sync issues with the Samsung player until I replaced a Monoprice Active HDMI cable with a 25 foot BJC Series-1. Since then; none.

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Originally Posted by claw View Post
...
I have no problem with my Oppo sending 4K60 4:2:2 12-bit when playing the Billy Lynn disc.
Both of these signals are at the 17.8 Gbps maximum.
Are you sure the Oppo outputs 60p when playing the UHD blu-ray, and doesn't switch to 24p? (you could use the linker to inspect the connection).
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post #23144 of 31987 Old 03-20-2017, 02:34 PM
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I know that Lumagen has had to update their Pro firmware very recently to handle Roku issues. Not sure they are the same, but JVC hasn't updated anything for quite some time. I've had some work done on my Pro and will be reinstalling today. Interesting that I had to (for the first time), use my McIntosh MX160s inputs for video sources. Had several new problems. The folks at McIntosh told me that things work perfectly with the new JVCs, but lots of issues with our models. We know these units came out prior to HDR sources and they have had only one update. Suggests that they made changes in the new models to fix compatibility issues, but we obviously don't seem to be getting these updates. Maybe hardware related... SJ

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post #23145 of 31987 Old 03-20-2017, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post
Can you take a picture or video of what the screen looks like when the HDMI goes haywire on you? I've seen two versions of this myself. One is a scratchy/squilling looking set of lines that scroll vertically. Another version is a more static set of lines which are very vivid in color that fill the screen, like a vivid rainbow (color-wise) but the lines are straight.
Sorry for the delay in picking this up. When I get the hash, it is the static set of lines that fill the screen with rainbow colors but the lines are very straight.

I have had CMD off since I got the projector so that is not the culprit in my case. I will try taking the AVM-60 out of the chain tomorrow to see if that might be the culprit.

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post #23146 of 31987 Old 03-20-2017, 04:41 PM
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Official JVC RS600 / RS500 (X950R / X750R - X9000 / X7000) Owners Thread

How do I center the lens?

The entire time I've owned projectors I've never once touched the horizontal position.

I accidentally bumped the side button when it was on Lens Shift and now it's off center.

When I selected a Lens Memory preset it just adjusted the vertical position, staying off center.

When I selected 'Center Lens' it just moved all the way to the top and didn't adjust horizontal position.

I zoomed out to the edges of my 2.35:1 screen to align it, but I want it **perfectly** aligned. What do I do?

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post #23147 of 31987 Old 03-20-2017, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by rak306 View Post
Are you sure the Oppo outputs 60p when playing the UHD blu-ray, and doesn't switch to 24p? (you could use the linker to inspect the connection).
Yes, I am sure. Under no circumstances would I watch a 4K60 disc at 4K24. Besides that would be impossible. It might send 4K30 but not 4K24. The Oppo would probably output 4K30 if the Linker EDID was set to 8, but I set it to Sink EDID.
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post #23148 of 31987 Old 03-20-2017, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by claw View Post
Yes, I am sure. Under no circumstances would I watch a 4K60 disc at 4K24. Besides that would be impossible. It might send 4K30 but not 4K24.
May I ask, what disks you have that are 2160p60 at 10 or 12 bit?
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post #23149 of 31987 Old 03-20-2017, 05:20 PM
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May I ask, what disks you have that are 2160p60 at 10 or 12 bit?
I mentioned the Billy Lynn's Long Half Time Walk UHD Blu Ray disc in my post. It is a 4K60 disc. The Oppo outputs 4K60 4:2:2 12-bit.

It makes a great HDMI cable test disc. Some cables might work for a short time but eventually fail. Two hours at full 17.8 Gbps bandwidth without a loss of video sync makes me pretty confident I can throw anything at my BJC cable.

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post #23150 of 31987 Old 03-20-2017, 05:22 PM
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I mentioned the Billy Lynn's Long Half Time Walk disc in my post. It is a 4K60 disc. The Oppo outputs 4K60 4:2:2 12-bit.
Got it.

Thanks.
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post #23151 of 31987 Old 03-20-2017, 05:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by claw View Post
I mentioned the Billy Lynn's Long Half Time Walk UHD Blu Ray disc in my post. It is a 4K60 disc. The Oppo outputs 4K60 4:2:2 12-bit.

It makes a great HDMI cable test disc. Some cables might work for a short time but eventually fail. Two hours at full 17.8 Gbps bandwidth without a loss of video sync makes me pretty confident I can throw anything at my BJC cable.
Yep, if you can play that full movie, trouble free, you have a solid system.
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post #23152 of 31987 Old 03-20-2017, 07:02 PM
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Attention custom HDR curve creation freaks - As of last night there's a new Arve's Tool branch called "threaded_menu". This fixes issues with the plot window being "unreponsive" if you tried to move it, and issues with the plot window wanting to hide under all other windows and not come to the foreground. If you do any work with the plot window you will really appreciate this update, available her: https://github.com/arvehj/jvcproject.../threaded_menu . That is the only things different from the very latest wip branch.
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post #23153 of 31987 Old 03-20-2017, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Garrett View Post
JVC has it twice then.
I'd reported my Roku issue to Lumagen and Jim replied they'd seen the lock up with the JVC too, but in later communication it turned out to be with a 620 (though may be the same issue). With permission to share from Jim:

Quote:
Originally Posted by jrp
With a Radiance Pro driving a JVC 620 in Hawaii we had a lockup issue. I happened to be in Hawaii on vacation and went to the dealer’s theater for testing. After a lot of trial and error, we found something that worked. I do not know if this is a common issue or only affected this one projector.

What we did that prevented the lockup was to not change to/from Rec 2020 for the JVC 620. We manually put the SDR/709 CMS (default is CMS0) into Colorspace = SDR2020 (rather than the normal SDR709), and then manually put the HDR CMS (default is CMS1) into HDR2020 mode. We then did a Save. Once we did this we could change to/from SDR/HDR and change resolution with no lockups. Great picture from the JVC 620 by the way.

For Rec 709 source color to be correct this work-around requires that you create a Rec709 3D LUT for the “SDR2020” mode of CMS0, but you can try it out to see if it helps your projector lockups first. Then if it does fix the lockup spend the time to generate the SDR Rec 709 3D LUT for CMS0 in SDR2020 mode.

Note that we indirectly shared this information with JVC. So hopefully this helps them figure out the lockup issue.
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post #23154 of 31987 Old 03-20-2017, 07:24 PM
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LovingDVD's Custom HDR gamma curves for low nit setups

Guys - Attached is a zip with 3 custom HDR gamma curves to play with. These are are designed specifically for users with less than 100 nits.

The curve marked "dark" is the least aggressive and the most natural HDR shaped curve. This should give you a very pleasing look, while being perhaps a little on the dim side. As such the amount of crush and color de-saturation is minimized, tho still present (the curves with no crush and no de-saturation are too dark in low nit setups IMO).

The curve marked "medium" is a little more aggressive than dark, giving a pleasing amount of brightness while increasing crush and de-saturation by a reasonable amount. What I mean by "reasonable" is that it is still acceptable to me and worth the tradeoff in some nice extra pop and brightness over the "dark" curve.

The curve marked "bright" is even more aggressive than medium. But as would be expected it crushes more and some highlights such as in clouds of bright reflective surface may show some blooming (some of this may also be seen in "medium", but not as much). In return for this you get even more pop and brightness.

Note that the terms here medium, dark and bright are RELATIVE to each other. Meaning that all three curves would likely be considered overly bright for setups over 100 nits. IOW within this grouping of custom curves, one is dark, medium and bright compared to the others - but overall they are all generally considered to be quite bright. Certainly there is even brighter still possible, but given that the bright curve is starting to push the tolerance of my limits I don't see any reason to experiment with brighter curves. I think this is as bright as I can go.

Overall I think all 3 curves can offer a great viewing experience for those with less than 100 nits available, for both 1000 and 4000 nit titles. Note that you should check your brightness to make sure bars 81 and up flash and bars 77 and lower do not. Depending on your setup these curves may not work for you in that sense.

I am still watching various content to try them out but generally am quite happy with all three. Overall my favorite so far is the medium one - which as would be expected is a good compromise between the other two. To show off some real pop you can go with the bright. And for a brighter movie that you want to be as true to the source as possible, try the dark version.

Again, remember these curves are intended only for folks with less than 100 nit setups (tho users a little above 100 may still find them pleasing).

If you try these please let me know how it goes and how you like it!

Special thanks to @Manni01 and @arve for having great patience and teaching me to fish!

Edit: 3/29/17 - I am quite happy with these curves, to the point where I have stopped experimenting and just enjoying using the projector again, particularly with 4K HDR titles. I have mostly been using the medium curve, almost exclusively. I have updated the zip file to include the raw .conf files so that others can make curves using mine as a baseline, or to be able to tweak their bbi and bbo parameters to keep the same curves as I have but get the black level right for their pj. To use these conf files, place them in the same directory as the Arve Tool installation. Run the tool, then enter "lf bright" or "lf medium" or "lf dark" depending on which curve you want to work with. Then enter ga to go to the gamma adjust menu. Then tweak from there, do a Pw to write it to the projector and so a "s filename" to save your changes to your own conf file for later tweaking. Enjoy!
Attached Files
File Type: zip Ldvd-curves-RevA-with-conf.zip (6.6 KB, 192 views)

Last edited by lovingdvd; 03-28-2017 at 10:17 PM.
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post #23155 of 31987 Old 03-20-2017, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DLCPhoto View Post
In researching options for a UPS for a JVC Projector (RS400 in my case), many have recommended a "true" sine wave unit, rather than a "simulated" one. Naturally the price is higher, but not egregiously so.

The reading I've done so far indicates that if a given device has "Active PFC" built into it, then it doesn't 'get along' with UPS units that have 'simulated' sine wave output. So, does anybody know if the JVC RS400/RS500/RS600 series do in fact have "Active PFC" in their power supplies?

If they do, I'll return the unit I just bought, and get a true sine wave unit ($150 vs $100 for the VA rating in the 1000 to 1100 range).

Are there are other 'real-world' factors here that would argue for the superiority of "pure" sine wave units for this particular application?

I like my decisions to be as evidence-based as possible; it's all too easy to over-spend for items that don't really provide any real-world or practical benefit (e.g. 'high-end' speaker cables and that sort of thing!).

But if there is actual benefit, then I don't mind spending a bit more.

Thanks.

Don
Following up on this issue, I had an online chat with CyberPower support. They confirmed that if a device does have an "Active PFC" Power Supply, then basically, if the AC power drops, the battery will not work as a backup. Here's the relevant portion of our chat:

Quote:
Shaine P
I'm not seeing anything about an APFC in the JVC manual, but you might want to go ahead and call JVC if possible. If it does indeed have an APFC PSU, you would need to absolutely have a pure-sine capable UPS, like the CP1350PFCLCD
Don Cohen
What is the basis for problems? And would this occur if it's just running normally, or only when the battery has to kick in?
Shaine P
Yes, it would be when the battery comes on. An APFC PSU requires a pure-sine wave to function, so as soon as the battery kicked in, it would see the simulated sine of the UPS, and instantly hard-shutdown.
Don Cohen
So normal operation is fine?
Shaine P
Right. Just when on battery. Otherwise, the UPS just passes the utility power through.15:34:58
So the key question here is whether or not these JVC Projectors have an APFC Power Supply or not. If they don't, then the less expensive simulated sine wave units should work fine; if they do, then the Projector would shut-down when it saw the simulated sine wave from these units when the battery kicks in.

If I get an answer from JVC, I'll post, so others can be better informed in their UPS choices.

Don

JVC RS400, Marantz SR7010, Screen Innovations 160" 2.35:1 Screen
Front L/R: Duntech Sovereigns, powered by 2 bridged Adcom GFA-555
Center: Revel C208 powered by Cambridge Audio Azur 851W
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post #23156 of 31987 Old 03-20-2017, 08:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DLCPhoto View Post
Following up on this issue, I had an online chat with CyberPower support. They confirmed that if a device does have an "Active PFC" Power Supply, then basically, if the AC power drops, the battery will not work as a backup. Here's the relevant portion of our chat:



So the key question here is whether or not these JVC Projectors have an APFC Power Supply or not. If they don't, then the less expensive simulated sine wave units should work fine; if they do, then the Projector would shut-down when it saw the simulated sine wave from these units when the battery kicks in.

If I get an answer from JVC, I'll post, so others can be better informed in their UPS choices.

Don
I have asked, waiting for an answer.
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post #23157 of 31987 Old 03-20-2017, 10:38 PM
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Official JVC RS600 / RS500 (X950R / X750R - X9000 / X7000) Owners Thread

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Originally Posted by CLHDTV View Post
When I try to stream Netflix in HDR from my Roku Ultra to my JVC X750R I get projector lockups - the screen turns into multi-colored static, and the only way to restore the JVC is to restart the projector. I am using a 20 ft. run of BJC 1E, which Sound and Vision confirmed to work with HDR, and it passes HDR from my Oppo 203 just fine. (Both the Roku and the Oppo go through an Anthem AVM-60 and then to the JVC.)



Is anyone else having this problem with the Roku Ultra? Any solutions?



I am wiling to buy another streaming source to provide Netflix HDR if I can have some confidence that it will work with a 20 ft. cable run. (I also am willing to try the 20ft. Monoprice cable to see if this resolves the problem.) I know that the Sammy K8500 now will stream Netflix HDR. Is anyone streaming it over a 20 ft cable run to a JVC with success?



All suggestions greatly appreciated. Netflix HDR over the JVC with a custom curve looks incredible (for the brief time that I can watch it before a lockup) and I don't even have the Linker in the chain yet.



Thanks.



--Charlie


Use the Roku hidden menu to switch from 4:2:2 to 4:2:0 output. That will greatly reduce to bandwidth on the hdmi cable. 4k/60 4:2:2 12 bit needs the full 18Gbps but 4k/60 4:2:0 10 bit uses around 12gbps.

That should eliminate your issue.

I have been using a Roku Ultra with my RS600 for months now, and it's rock solid if you switch to 4:2:0 output.


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Last edited by ccool96; 03-20-2017 at 10:44 PM.
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post #23158 of 31987 Old 03-20-2017, 10:42 PM
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HDFury has determined that the Integral does not always report correct values for metadata fields MaxCLL and MaxFALL. It turns out that the Linker reports correct values. Which is good because I really did not want to start over collecting disc metadata. The next Integral firmware update will correct it.

The one disc that I wonder about is The DaVinci Code. It is a 4000 nit disc but its MaxCLL (Maximum content light value) is reported as 4897. I might have to recheck that disc.
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JVC RS500|LG B7A OLED|Denon X6400H/X4200W|Panasonic UB820|Two Oppo 203|Samsung K8500|Apple TV 4K|HDfury Diva/Vertex/Linker/Integral
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post #23159 of 31987 Old 03-21-2017, 03:25 AM
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Originally Posted by ccool96 View Post
Use the Roku hidden menu to switch from 4:2:2 to 4:2:0 output. That will greatly reduce to bandwidth on the hdmi cable. 4k/60 4:2:2 12 bit needs the full 18Gbps but 4k/60 4:2:0 10 bit uses around 12gbps.

That should eliminate your issue.

I have been using a Roku Ultra with my RS600 for months now, and it's rock solid if you switch to 4:2:0 output.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Thanks, ccool. I had switched the Roku to 4:2:0 using the secret menu, but still get the full screen, straight line bright color JVC lockups. My Samsung arrives today and I will see if it also suffers from the lockups in my chain or whether it is a Roku issue for me.

--Charlie
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post #23160 of 31987 Old 03-21-2017, 03:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by claw View Post
HDFury has determined that the Integral does not always report correct values for metadata fields MaxCLL and MaxFALL. It turns out that the Linker reports correct values. Which is good because I really did not want to start over collecting disc metadata. The next Integral firmware update will correct it.

The one disc that I wonder about is The DaVinci Code. It is a 4000 nit disc but its MaxCLL (Maximum content light value) is reported as 4897. I might have to recheck that disc.

No need to recheck, this MaxCLL value is correct. Some titles go higher than the mastering display (which is another reason why just looking at the mastering display value tells us little for 4000nits titles. Remember that this value is for the brightest sub-pixel in the whole content (until we get dynamic metadata).

Inferno reports up to 10000 for maxCLL, but it might be a metadata error/approximation, as this is the theoretical max.
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