Official JVC RS600 / RS500 (X950R / X750R - X9000 / X7000) Owners Thread - Page 776 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #23251 of 31902 Old 03-22-2017, 04:37 PM
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Official JVC RS600 / RS500 (X950R / X750R - X9000 / X7000) Owners Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
Hire a pro
Care to wager the result ends up "that's the way it is"?

*shows up with tons of gear, adjusts 3 values 2 clicks, charges $500 and leaves*

I wonder if somehow I screwed up the Import settings from JVC back when I got the projector or something....

I'm just frustrated because apart from your very informative post it's been a lot of settings suggestions that yield a relatively nuanced result.

We're talking about trying to dry off while still standing in the rain. Lol.

Arg!

Last edited by Dreamliner; 03-22-2017 at 04:44 PM.
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post #23252 of 31902 Old 03-22-2017, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post
Care to wager the result ends up "that's the way it is"?

I wonder if somehow I screwed up the Import settings from JVC back when I got the projector or something....
That's the problem with screenshots

You might have a completely unrealistic expectation of what that shot should look like in HDR. Normal should only be used to check if there is crush in the content. If doesn't show anything like what the picture should actually look like with a proper PQ curve. Your latest Deadpool screenshots are not that wrong, contrary to the first ones you posted which were badly crushing shadow detail.

You need the proper patterns and you need to adjust the source to resolve down to 68.

It sounds like a *good* calibrator could at least confirm that your system is set-up properly. If you can't set brightness and contrast properly, then you do need help (or you need a better player, I have zero experience with the Samsung so I'll let others step in if they can add anything).

Last edited by Manni01; 03-22-2017 at 04:52 PM.
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post #23253 of 31902 Old 03-22-2017, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post
Care to wager the result ends up "that's the way it is"?

*shows up with tons of gear, adjusts 3 values 2 clicks, charges $500 and leaves*

I wonder if somehow I screwed up the Import settings from JVC back when I got the projector or something....
Just out of curiosity, what do you have selected for your gamma? Can you take a picture?
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post #23254 of 31902 Old 03-22-2017, 04:54 PM
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Anyone using the Amazon 4K box (FireTV) with their JVC projector successfully?? Mine will only display 1080 !!
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post #23255 of 31902 Old 03-22-2017, 04:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
That's the problem with screenshots



You might have a completely unrealistic expectation of what that shot should look like in HDR. Normal should only be used to check if there is crush in the content. If doesn't show anything like what the picture should actually look like with a proper PQ curve. Your latest Deadpool screenshots are not that wrong, contrary to the first ones you posted which were badly crushing shadow detail.



You need the proper patterns and you need to adjust the source to resolve down to 68.



It sounds like a good calibrator could at least confirm that your system is set-up properly. If you can't set brightness and contrast properly, then you do need help (or you need a better player, I have zero experience with the Samsung so I'll let others step in if they can add anything).
It's quite possible. It just seems like in these handful of Fox titles the sky will look super bright and the people will look like they have zero front light, like I'm watching a shadow or something.

Maybe the others are bad too, but other UHD titles seem to look beautiful. I only get salty when I pop in a Fox title. Assassin's Creed yesterday looked horrendous in 4K, dark scenes were almost completely black. I could see more shadow detail in 3D!

See the crowd of people? Yeah, me neither!


I'll have to pickup the Sony player to test (local availability) but I'd honestly be surprised if anyone could make out the difference between players if the image was flashed for 1 second each in a double blind. (I promise I can make out one of these Fox titles with a half second flash. Or less.)

Again, I want to be wrong.

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Just out of curiosity, what do you have selected for your gamma? Can you take a picture?
I literally posted about 10 pics of ALL of my picture settings about 2 hours ago.
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post #23256 of 31902 Old 03-22-2017, 05:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post
It's quite possible. It just seems like in these handful of Fox titles the sky will look super bright and the people will look like they have zero front light, like I'm watching a shadow or something.

Maybe the others are bad too, but other UHD titles seem to look beautiful. I only get salty when I pop in a Fox title. Assassin's Creed yesterday looked horrendous in 4K, dark scenes were almost completely black. I could see more shadow detail in 3D!

See the crowd of people? Yeah, me neither!


I'll have to pickup the Sony player to test (local availability) but I'd honestly be surprised if anyone could make out the difference between players if the image was flashed for 1 second each in a double blind. (I promise I can make out one of these Fox titles with a half second flash. Or less.)

Again, I want to be wrong.
I don't know about Assassin's Creed, I don't have it and I'm unlikely to buy it.

I attach a pic of the same shot from Deadpool, which is roughly the way I would expect that shot to look like in HDR (on an SDR screen, pic taken on an iPhone, etc). But if you look at shadow detail, yours doesn't look significantly worse (say in Ldvd custom high or any custom 400, which probably fits your screen better than one of my own curves).
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post #23257 of 31902 Old 03-22-2017, 05:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post
It's quite possible. It just seems like in these handful of Fox titles the sky will look super bright and the people will look like they have zero front light, like I'm watching a shadow or something.

Maybe the others are bad too, but other UHD titles seem to look beautiful. I only get salty when I pop in a Fox title. Assassin's Creed yesterday looked horrendous in 4K, dark scenes were almost completely black. I could see more shadow detail in 3D!

See the crowd of people? Yeah, me neither!


I'll have to pickup the Sony player to test (local availability) but I'd honestly be surprised if anyone could make out the difference between players if the image was flashed for 1 second each in a double blind. (I promise I can make out one of these Fox titles with a half second flash. Or less.)

Again, I want to be wrong.



I literally posted about 10 pics of ALL of my picture settings about 2 hours ago.
Just an observation, but Tom was just trying to help you....he has no skin in the game, but you do.

Instead of making a snide comment about a already posting the information ...why not just cut and paste or repost or link the previous post?

You are treating ppl like you've paid them a fee for their services vs a stranger taking the time out of their day to help you out with no other incentive but a thank you.
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post #23258 of 31902 Old 03-22-2017, 05:22 PM
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Official JVC RS600 / RS500 (X950R / X750R - X9000 / X7000) Owners Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
I don't know about Assassin's Creed, I don't have it and I'm unlikely to buy it.



I attach a pic of the same shot from Deadpool, which is roughly the way I would expect that shot to look like in HDR (on an SDR screen, pic taken on an iPhone, etc). But if you look at shadow detail, yours doesn't look significantly worse.
Ah. Now we're getting somewhere.

Thank you SO MUCH for posting that. For purposes of this discussion, it is EXACTLY what mine looks like and I think it looks terrible. The sky is way too bright and the people look like shadows.

Perhaps I just don't like they way it looks even though it's right.

Like 2 seconds later when Deadpool is in the SUV it looks fine. It just seems like I am seeing brighter colors but less information vs the regular Blu-ray.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rboster View Post
Just an observation, but Tom was just trying to help you....he has no skin in the game, but you do.



Instead of making a snide comment about a already posting the information ...why not just cut and paste or repost or link the previous post?



You are treating ppl like you've paid them a fee for their services vs a stranger taking the time out of their day to help you out with no other incentive but a thank you.
I am sorry. I don't mean to come across so salty. I'm on my phone and I have no way to link to my previous posts as the mobile version this site uses is quite awful and I haven't figured out how to see the regular desktop view.

I'm also pretty convinced that what I'm seeing is either what everyone is seeing and/or there is some setting that is significantly wrong (like contrast being at 1 million or something). I'm just trying to discard anything and stop rabbit trails that won't actually solve the problem, like getting tripped up on custom Gamma (which is where this thread has been for about a month) if the problem is elsewhere.

A bit like waxing the hood when the car had just been T-Boned.

I want to provide and be provided with full sets of information. That's why I try and put tons of info into a single post so it isn't spread over massive amounts of pages and you don't have to cobble together a string of posts to get a full set of settings.

Again. Apologies to all if I've come across as salty. I just want it to look the best it can and I didn't want to drag out the troubleshooting for days.

Sorry and thank you all!

But mainly thank you....and sorry...and thank you.

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post #23259 of 31902 Old 03-22-2017, 05:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post
Ah. Now we're getting somewhere.

Thank you SO MUCH for posting that. For purposes of this discussion, it is EXACTLY what mine looks like and I think it looks terrible. The sky is way too bright and the people look like shadows.

Perhaps I just don't like they way it looks even though it's right.

Like 2 seconds later when Deadpool is in the SUV it looks fine. It just seems like I am seeing brighter colors but less information vs the regular Blu-ray.



I am sorry. I don't mean to come across so salty. I'm on my phone and I have no way to link to my previous posts as the mobile version this site uses is quite awful and I haven't figured out how to see the regular desktop view.

I'm also pretty convinced that what I'm seeing is either what everyone is seeing and/or there is some setting that is significantly wrong (like contrast being at 1 million or something). I'm just trying to discard anything and stop rabbit trails that won't actually solve the problem, like getting tripped up on custom Gamma (which is where this thread has been for about a month) if the problem is elsewhere.

A bit like waxing the hood when the car had just been T-Boned.

I want to provide and be provided with full sets of information. That's why I try and put tons of info into a single post so it isn't spread over massive amounts of pages and you don't have to cobble together a string of posts to get a full set of settings.

Again. Apologies to all if I've come across as salty. I just want it to look the best it can and I didn't want to drag out the troubleshooting for days.

Sorry and thank you all!

But mainly thank you....and sorry...and thank you.

No problem. I wasn't actually talking about your screen shots. I wanted to see what you had selected in the JVC menu for gamma. If you are making gamma curves your ahead of me. I had to bring my projector over to Kevin's house so he could import Manni's gamma curves for me because I couldn't figure out how to connect the projector to my network. When they were imported I didn't know you have to select the gamma that says import under each custom spot. Anyways, good luck!

oh, and btw. You need to ditch the Samsung and get the Oppo or Panasonic, not sure about the Sony but, the Oppo & Panasonic look so much better than the Samsung, especially in the sharpness/detail department. That was the first thing I noticed going from the Samsung to the Oppo.
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post #23260 of 31902 Old 03-22-2017, 05:45 PM
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Official JVC RS600 / RS500 (X950R / X750R - X9000 / X7000) Owners Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Bley View Post
When they were imported I didn't know you have to select the gamma that says import under each custom spot. Anyways, good luck!
I got tripped up on that too. I didn't realize it until I noticed all 3 custom values looked identical and curiously like Gamma Normal. Lol.

Manni's AutoCal thread has so much information and I'm sure it's in there but when I was first figuring out the custom curves I didn't even know that thread existed and only had this thread. Things changed so quick it was like getting hit in the head followed by 'heads up'.

When I loaded the JVC HDR values when I first got the projector the instructions were straight forward and I just had to follow one set of step-by-step instructions. The custom Gamma really isn't harder than that to do, but the steps are all over the place.

I'm sure once the 'development' stage is done there will be a complete, clear, precise A-Z step-by-step guide.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Bley View Post

oh, and btw. You need to ditch the Samsung and get the Oppo or Panasonic, not sure about the Sony but, the Oppo & Panasonic look so much better than the Samsung, especially in the sharpness/detail department. That was the first thing I noticed going from the Samsung to the Oppo.
Yeah, the Sammy has been on the chopping block since before I bought it. Samsung is pretty much one of the only companies I don't like.
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post #23261 of 31902 Old 03-22-2017, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post
The UH480 lens is saving your butt big time on the brightness. You couldn't fill that screen with the zoom method otherwise and have enough brightness. Nice. Can you use an A-lens without any downsides if you don't have a curved screen?

Likewise am I correct to assume that whatever brightness I have with 16:9 image I would have about the same (minus a little loss from the extra glass/lens) brightness with 2.40 movies on my scoped screen (viewed in full screen, no bars) if I was using an A-lens?

Anyone see where I am going with this?

Short throw on a flat screen, when using an A-lens gives you a lot of pincushion. That is why you should use a curved screen. To reduce pincushion on a flat screen, you use a longer throw. Yes, your brightness stays about the same going from 16:9 no lens to 2.35 with lens.
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post #23262 of 31902 Old 03-22-2017, 06:34 PM
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Just as stranger89 stated, posting in the owner's thread is the best way to find information on the RS500....it's where the owner's of this model hang out...great ppl and great resource. I'll ask a mod to merge your thread into the owner's thread.
I do not see a CMD setting option in the DLA-RS500u to turn it off, nor a reference for it in the manual?
any suggestions?
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post #23263 of 31902 Old 03-22-2017, 06:40 PM
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I do not see a CMD setting option in the DLA-RS500u to turn it off, nor a reference for it in the manual?
any suggestions?
IIRC its under the MPC Settings from the first menu, or if not hit the Advanced menu button multiple times to scroll through those screens. But I'm pretty sure its under the MPC option.
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post #23264 of 31902 Old 03-22-2017, 06:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Garrett View Post
Short throw on a flat screen, when using an A-lens gives you a lot of pincushion. That is why you should use a curved screen. To reduce pincushion on a flat screen, you use a longer throw. Yes, your brightness stays about the same going from 16:9 no lens to 2.35 with lens.
Thanks. Curved screen is not an option, as my flat screen is aperture mounted into my front face of the baffle wall and I'm not "going there". think my throw I considered mid-throw; 18.5' to throw a 140" wide 2.37 image with no bars. Would I notice any hint of pincushion or other such distortion from that distance assuming I was willing to overscan the borders?
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post #23265 of 31902 Old 03-22-2017, 06:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post
Thanks. Curved screen is not an option, as my flat screen is aperture mounted into my front face of the baffle wall and I'm not "going there". think my throw I considered mid-throw; 18.5' to throw a 140" wide 2.37 image with no bars. Would I notice any hint of pincushion or other such distortion from that distance assuming I was willing to overscan the borders?
At that throw distance, the amount of pincushion for that size screen is considered acceptable.
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post #23266 of 31902 Old 03-22-2017, 07:00 PM
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At that throw distance, the amount of pincushion for that size screen is considered acceptable.
Considered acceptable in general, or considered acceptable by the most particular of people? My concern is that if there was even the slightest hint of geometric distortion that it would drive me nuts. I have to check, but I think my 2.40 zoom position loses about 33% brightness compared to the 16:9 position. If I was able to recoup most of that with an A-lens this could get tempting, depending on costs, artifacts (such as a hit to ANSI CR from the extra glass or geometric distortion), sled etc etc. A couple years back while I was first planning my system I read that an A-lens could save you maybe around 10-15%. But if we are talking closer to 30%, that's quite significant given my screen size and that I am fighting for nits for HDR... Tho I will still be way short of Manni's recommended 100 nits for HDR. . So when are those sub $10k laser JVC's with 3000-5000 lumens hitting the market?
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So when are those sub $10k laser JVC's with 3000-5000 lumens hitting the market?
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post #23268 of 31902 Old 03-22-2017, 07:07 PM
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Dolby Vision Cinema Emulation Curve

I've finally imported Manni's DV curve. Surprised there weren't too many feedback but I suspect everyone's been busy customizing their own. Anyhow just a quick post:

The difference with his DVCE curve from his 140-1100-4000 v2 is subtle but significant.
It appears to stretch the whole range even more, meaning better color luminance in bright highlights, at the same time, without elevating black level with darker scenes. I used The Shallows, specifically in chapters 8,9 & 10 and The Martian with random chapters.
Although he mentions a downside of a slight loss in Ansi CR (which could be what I'm noticing during the brighter segments of the film) it appears to be more than compensated for with retaining colorful highlights. I look at that as a nice sacrifice, actually. Also, one thing I've noticed with UHD material there's hardly any washed out effects in brighter scenes anymore compared to Blu ray.

Overall, this curve appears more pleasing to my eyes with 1000 nit titles. But for brighter movies, such as The Shallows, I might lean towards his v2 curve. Forgot to try the Uni-curve for 4000 nits titles...I was stoked on watching for several hours today. Eventually, will build my settings around these 3 curves then I'm done!

Manni pretty much nailed it with HDR on the JVC and I'm grateful for his efforts. SDR, by comparison, just isn't in the same level and suddenly looks like video. You're missing a lot, especially if your setup allows you to reach 100 nits or more.
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post #23269 of 31902 Old 03-22-2017, 07:52 PM
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I don't know either. I only know that the first time I ever saw this info on the plot is after I installed the threaded menu branch (full folder from the zip extracted in another folder, separate from the wip or main branch so that I could keep both), went to ga and selected p. It showed the plot info for the first time ever. For a while, if I went to ga after re-launching the program, if PQ was selected it would show no plot (same as wip). I had to select bt1886, then select pq again for the plot info to show.
I did not see the problem you describe on a fresh install. If you have a saved file that triggers a problem, please share it.

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The PQ target for 0.5PQ in Calman is exactly the same as the number in the second example above (94.378nits), which is the number I mentioned in my last post. It is the target for the 50% pattern displayed by Calman when measuring 21steps in 5% increments, which is the most common way to calibrate greyscale. I attach a screenshot so you can see what I mean.

If you believe this is incorrect, I'll report this to Spectracal.
It is not incorrect the way Calman is using it. I don't think it is a good target to compare with theoretical values though, as it does not exist in a 8 bit video level signal. If Calman is outputting and measuring in 21 steps, it cannot do so in even increments. This does not normally cause a problem, as it knows what it actually outputs and compensates for that, but if you want to compare the results of these measurements with values from other sources, you also need to know the output value they used (126/504 for your 50%, a 10 bit generator would probably use 502).

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Thanks for the typo on peak white, I've corrected this in my post.

As I said, 100nits is a legacy reference white value. It is still used by colorists when they grade for HDR because it makes their SDR grade easier. I am sure there are 100nits manual patterns floating around for this reason. But it's not part of the standard. I'm sure that Light Illusion would mention it for simplicity, as a shortcut, but it wouldn't be the first time they are not 100% correct regarding standards. It took them a while to implement BT1886 properly.

I have stopped using manual patterns for calibration about a decade ago, so I'm not going back there when calibrating.

I really don't mind which value you choose. I was only pointing out that AFAIK, there is no reference white defined in the standard, and that the closest value used in a standard calibration layout was 94.378nits, which it 50% white according to Calman.

This is the value that most professional calibrators not using manual patterns but using an automatic pattern generator will use. It's up to you to decide whether you want to use a legacy value for this (100nits), which calibrators won't be able to measure easily using a pattern generator (100% of pro and most enthusiasts do it that way), or if you prefer to use a value which means something in PQ terms, i.e. 50% white and is therefore measured during an HDR calibration. If Calman's value of 94.378nits is wrong, I'll report it and they'll correct it, so let's not argue about the actual number if you believe it's wrong. What's important is for you to make a decision regarding which "reference white" it is more useful to have in your software, a legacy value that doesn't have any corresponding pattern in a professional (and enthusiast) calibration layout, or a value that is measured in every greyscale sweep when using automatic pattern generators, whether it's done in 11 or 21steps (the most commonly used increments).



Understood, that's what I thought. It just seems to me that just as you add soft start and hard clip points to the plot (outside of the normal spacing) so we can clearly see where they end, you could do the same for "reference white" as it looks like you'd have the space to do this around the area used by this random 48nits value.

You don't have to start from x, you can start from the value you have for y, just like for the two other values. It doesn't matter at all if it says exactly 94.378nits on x (assuming this is the correct value for 50% white) or something slightly different. It's just a useful value (whether you choose to go with 100 or 94nits) to have on the plot, so we can see easily what's before and after "reference white" on the curve. You don't show the exact value input for hard clip either on x, and it doesn't matter, it shows where we hard clip on the plot, and that's useful.

Just to clarify, I'm fine with no values at all on the plot, your tool is great as it is for me, I'm only trying to help making it more useful to others. So don't waste any time doing anything for me. I make suggestions, if you like them, take them, if you don't, leave them and spend the time on more important stuff

Keep up the good work!
I think reference white is useful as a parameter since it lets you create a hdr gamma curve that will have the same brightness for most non-highlight content as your sdr curve. I don't know if it is useful to plot it though.
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post #23270 of 31902 Old 03-22-2017, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by asharma View Post
I don't have the parms at work here but I think the ratio is 4:1 which should make for a fairly bright curve
Thanks for saying "parms" (no offense Ric!).
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post #23271 of 31902 Old 03-22-2017, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post
Considered acceptable in general, or considered acceptable by the most particular of people? My concern is that if there was even the slightest hint of geometric distortion that it would drive me nuts. I have to check, but I think my 2.40 zoom position loses about 33% brightness compared to the 16:9 position. If I was able to recoup most of that with an A-lens this could get tempting, depending on costs, artifacts (such as a hit to ANSI CR from the extra glass or geometric distortion), sled etc etc. A couple years back while I was first planning my system I read that an A-lens could save you maybe around 10-15%. But if we are talking closer to 30%, that's quite significant given my screen size and that I am fighting for nits for HDR... Tho I will still be way short of Manni's recommended 100 nits for HDR. . So when are those sub $10k laser JVC's with 3000-5000 lumens hitting the market?
You will only gain 15% to 20%. Only way you gain more than that is short throw and A-lens, which requires a curved screen. See, my throw distance to my screen is about 2'-6" shorter than you can go, using zoom method. Then add the light from the black bars and I get a healthy jump in lumens.
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post #23272 of 31902 Old 03-22-2017, 10:17 PM
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here's a great reason to own the inexpensive spyder 5 meter

recent production RS500 with 10 hours

pre-cal 2.2



post-cal 2.2




this makes it worth every dime just to correct the gamma if nothing else.
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post #23273 of 31902 Old 03-22-2017, 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post
here's a great reason to own the inexpensive spyder 5 meter

recent production RS500 with 10 hours

pre-cal 2.2

post-cal 2.2

this makes it worth every dime just to correct the gamma if nothing else.
Interesting, interesting. I happen to own a Spider 5 Pro. Is there a specific guide you recommend to get started with this? I saw Manni's first post and searched for "Spyder" but I wasn't certain where to start.

Last edited by Dreamliner; 03-22-2017 at 11:54 PM.
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post #23274 of 31902 Old 03-23-2017, 12:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post
Interesting, interesting. I happen to own a Spider 5 Pro. Is there a specific guide you recommend to get started with this? I saw Manni's first post and searched for "Spyder" but I wasn't certain where to start.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-dig...500-rs600.html
Everything you need to know.
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post #23275 of 31902 Old 03-23-2017, 02:55 AM
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If only the v9 calibration software for the RS520 didn't have this "red push" bug....
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post #23276 of 31902 Old 03-23-2017, 05:21 AM
 
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If only the v9 calibration software for the RS520 didn't have this "red push" bug....
I have not tested the V9 yet, but I will soon as I have a RS420 and a RS520 on the way. Is this red push in the grayscale/gamma or colorspace?
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post #23277 of 31902 Old 03-23-2017, 05:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Andreas21 View Post
I have not tested the V9 yet, but I will soon as I have a RS420 and a RS520 on the way. Is this red push in the grayscale/gamma or colorspace?
Fine to use it for gamma, but not colorspace.
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post #23278 of 31902 Old 03-23-2017, 05:43 AM
 
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Fine to use it for gamma, but not colorspace.
Ok, that is also the main thing I use it for as the colospace is very good for a very long time on these units, but I am sure/hope JVC will come with a fix soon...
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post #23279 of 31902 Old 03-23-2017, 05:55 AM
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Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post
Considered acceptable in general, or considered acceptable by the most particular of people? My concern is that if there was even the slightest hint of geometric distortion that it would drive me nuts. I have to check, but I think my 2.40 zoom position loses about 33% brightness compared to the 16:9 position. If I was able to recoup most of that with an A-lens this could get tempting, depending on costs, artifacts (such as a hit to ANSI CR from the extra glass or geometric distortion), sled etc etc. A couple years back while I was first planning my system I read that an A-lens could save you maybe around 10-15%. But if we are talking closer to 30%, that's quite significant given my screen size and that I am fighting for nits for HDR... Tho I will still be way short of Manni's recommended 100 nits for HDR. . So when are those sub $10k laser JVC's with 3000-5000 lumens hitting the market?
I have an A-Lens on a 10 foot wide screen, with RS500 about 17 feet away. Minor pincushion but only obvious with test patterns. I am as anal as the next addict hobbyist, but spend no time while watching movies to see if the geometry on the left and right extreme edges is not perfect. That, of course, is not to say you wouldn't.

That said, I won't/can't use high lamp (too close to my head) and my screen is AT (gain of ~1) so only watch in SDR/WCG. HDR, even done by ChadB a few weeks ago with all of his custom curves, just didn't get it for me - particularly when compared to SDR/WCG.

Of course, YMMV.

Last edited by audioguy; 03-23-2017 at 06:00 AM.
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post #23280 of 31902 Old 03-23-2017, 06:46 AM
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When the JVC deep color is greyed out for both 4K24 and 4K60 (both at 4:2:2), am I correct that this means it is receiving 12 bit from the source? Thanks. SJ
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