Originally Posted by Dreamliner
I just loaded in Manni's 800-335-400 and thought it was too dark. I tried Loving's 'bright' profile and though it was better.
For fun, I tried running WIP at:
bm: 10 (yes, 10)
I thought it was too bright. So, at least I found something too bright. Right now I just entered BM @ 100 and its much closer.
I honestly don't know how anyone could watch a movie at bm 800 on low lamp. Y'all must have night vision goggles!
I like nice and bright images. No eye strain to see whats going on.
I'll suggest this one more time, since it doesn't appear you've tried it yet, from what you've written.
Rather than using Manni or somebody else's curves, or inputting parameters in Arve's software, just use lovingdvd's "Speed Guide." It is quite simple to do, and allows you to use the Projector's Brightness control to adjust those bright skies and such, to get them looking how you want, or think they should look, and when you hit 'Enter' the curve is then adjusted for this setting, and resets your Projector's Brightness control to 0. You can then write that curve to your projector.
You can still tweak that curve by adjusting bm or other parameters, to brighten or bring out shadow detail even more, but chances are it won't be necessary. Or you can adjust bbi and/or bbo, as outlined in that post, but again, chances are it won't be necessary.
If that doesn't work to give you a very good picture, then something else is likely out of whack, as Manni and others have suggested elsewhere.
In my room (RS400, large screen - 160" diagonal 2.35:1 (although 1.3 Gain), throw 18', not bat-cave) I have to run in High Lamp, but HDR now looks quite good. If you want to run in Low Lamp and have good results, you'll have to have a small screen, and/or high gain, shortish throw, and/or a true bat-cave.