Official JVC RS600 / RS500 (X950R / X750R - X9000 / X7000) Owners Thread - Page 783 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #23461 of 32133 Old 03-30-2017, 04:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post
I just loaded in Manni's 800-335-400 and thought it was too dark. I tried Loving's 'bright' profile and though it was better.

For fun, I tried running WIP at:

bm: 10 (yes, 10)
bh: 4000
sc: 175

I thought it was too bright. So, at least I found something too bright. Right now I just entered BM @ 100 and its much closer.

I honestly don't know how anyone could watch a movie at bm 800 on low lamp. Y'all must have night vision goggles!

I like nice and bright images. No eye strain to see whats going on.
I'll suggest this one more time, since it doesn't appear you've tried it yet, from what you've written.

Rather than using Manni or somebody else's curves, or inputting parameters in Arve's software, just use lovingdvd's "Speed Guide." It is quite simple to do, and allows you to use the Projector's Brightness control to adjust those bright skies and such, to get them looking how you want, or think they should look, and when you hit 'Enter' the curve is then adjusted for this setting, and resets your Projector's Brightness control to 0. You can then write that curve to your projector.

You can still tweak that curve by adjusting bm or other parameters, to brighten or bring out shadow detail even more, but chances are it won't be necessary. Or you can adjust bbi and/or bbo, as outlined in that post, but again, chances are it won't be necessary.

If that doesn't work to give you a very good picture, then something else is likely out of whack, as Manni and others have suggested elsewhere.

In my room (RS400, large screen - 160" diagonal 2.35:1 (although 1.3 Gain), throw 18', not bat-cave) I have to run in High Lamp, but HDR now looks quite good. If you want to run in Low Lamp and have good results, you'll have to have a small screen, and/or high gain, shortish throw, and/or a true bat-cave.

HTH.

Don
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post #23462 of 32133 Old 03-30-2017, 04:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post
I don't recall which one I'm using, I was linked to a preset after creating a handful of my own curves. I guess, I'm looking for whichever curve will provide the brightest overall image. I don't understand why a Blu-ray will be just fine in low lamp then I put in a 4K and on high lamp mode and I'm straining to see. Maybe it is a gamma setting. I dunno.
You are actually switching to your custom gamma manually right? Because if you don't have a Linker, every time you start a movie, or an HDMI handshake happens, the projector will switch back to Gamma D.
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post #23463 of 32133 Old 03-30-2017, 05:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Javs View Post
The problem is the black floor is already raised in the beginning with Gamma D and HDR... If you want to get the best black floor possible and a good trade up in settings pre all this custom curve business follow the link in my sig and try the HDR settings.
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Originally Posted by rollon1980 View Post
I really think that even gamma D will be fine as long as you use the JVC settings AND you raise brightness either in the player or in the projector to +6 or to the point of not raising the black floor. If you don't have the calibration patterns, I would do this by starting the movie, pausing it on a mostly black frame and then raising the brightness control until you can see the black becoming a tad lighter. Back off one on the brightness control to get back to black again. That is your correct brightness setting for that movie.

I know others might scream at me for suggesting such an unscientific way of doing this but it is still better than trying to watch a movie with the incorrect brightness control for HDR. :roll eyes:

Enjoy!
Ok, I did a 5min test run of Passengers 4K HDR and I must say it was a noticeable difference in PQ from a 1080P bluray. Now, what I don't know is whether the increase in PQ is due to using a 4k source or HDR I'm looking to find out because I want that PQ all the time In regards to the blacks, I'm still not totally satisfied. I don't believe it's the screen or the RS500, well not entirely. The RS500 is bright as hell in my basement at night Even in Low lamp mode. And I must say, with the added PQ pop that the combination of 4k source and HDR, the brightness was even more impactful. It could be due to the projector being calibrated for a screen size of 155" (according to the guy I bought the pj from) and my screen is 133". Also, I don't have finished walls, just framing which I believe may have an affect on the blacks with the studs being light in color which reflects light back onto the screen. The colors are fine though. Now my wife doesn't agree with me (not surprising), Just as I was about to ask if she thought the blacks were actually black, she said, "wow, those blacks are black!" She stated I need glasses I'll try decreasing the brightness and see if that helps.
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post #23464 of 32133 Old 03-30-2017, 09:18 AM
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Just curious, when I'm watching HDR content, I have my projector on HDR Picture Mode and BT2020 Color Profile (from the JVC guide). Is that correct?

Last edited by Dreamliner; 03-30-2017 at 10:47 AM.
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post #23465 of 32133 Old 03-30-2017, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by johnson636 View Post
Ok, I did a 5min test run of Passengers 4K HDR and I must say it was a noticeable difference in PQ from a 1080P bluray. Now, what I don't know is whether the increase in PQ is due to using a 4k source or HDR I'm looking to find out because I want that PQ all the time In regards to the blacks, I'm still not totally satisfied. I don't believe it's the screen or the RS500, well not entirely. The RS500 is bright as hell in my basement at night Even in Low lamp mode. And I must say, with the added PQ pop that the combination of 4k source and HDR, the brightness was even more impactful. It could be due to the projector being calibrated for a screen size of 155" (according to the guy I bought the pj from) and my screen is 133". Also, I don't have finished walls, just framing which I believe may have an affect on the blacks with the studs being light in color which reflects light back onto the screen. The colors are fine though. Now my wife doesn't agree with me (not surprising), Just as I was about to ask if she thought the blacks were actually black, she said, "wow, those blacks are black!" She stated I need glasses I'll try decreasing the brightness and see if that helps.
This is a post that screams that the person needs a calibration and someone that knows what they are doing to setup the projector. Hoping that some previous calibration that was done in a completely different setup is a lost cause. And decreasing brightness "to see if that helps" is another big no go as it clearly implies that you don't understand what that setting does. If you are fiddling with things and trying to figure it out randomly, PAY A CALIBRATOR. Otherwise just do a full factory reset and use the natural picture mode and call it a day. It will probably be closer to calibrated than anything you're doing.

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post #23466 of 32133 Old 03-30-2017, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Kris Deering View Post
This is a post that screams that the person needs a calibration and someone that knows what they are doing to setup the projector. Hoping that some previous calibration that was done in a completely different setup is a lost cause.
I wouldn't go that far. I normally do my calibration with the meter facing the projector (diffuser on), and then check the calibration with the meter facing the screen.

In almost all cases, the final check only requires a minor change in the RGB gains (to account for any screen colour bias), and using the manual iris to get 50 nits. Once that's done, the colour gamut, saturation sweep, gamma, grey scale are all where they should be with no other adjustments.

Last edited by Dominic Chan; 03-30-2017 at 02:24 PM.
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post #23467 of 32133 Old 03-30-2017, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
I wouldn't go that far. I normally do my calibration with the meter facing the projector (diffuser on), and then check the calibration with the meter facing the screen.

In almost all cases, the final check only requires a minor change in the RGB gains (and account for any screen colour bias), and using the manual iris to get 50 nits. Once that's done, the colour gamut, saturation sweep, gamma, grey scale are all where they should be with no other adjustments.
As we've been discussing in the JVC Calibration Thread, in my case I would describe the "after autocal" touchup as more than just a minor change. After the autocal my color temp is closer to 6100-6200K with dE of 1-3 across the range and even more importantly a dE of 4 at 100%. From what I recall this required a chance of about -10 to red and green gains to get closer to D65. Although I wind up using the custom color profile (which likely does about the same). End result is pretty fantastic tho.
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post #23468 of 32133 Old 03-30-2017, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
I wouldn't go that far. I normally do my calibration with the meter facing the projector (diffuser on), and then check the calibration with the meter facing the screen.

In almost all cases, the final check only requires a minor change in the RGB gains (and account for any screen colour bias), and using the manual iris to get 50 nits. Once that's done, the colour gamut, saturation sweep, gamma, grey scale are all where they should be with no other adjustments.
So again, you need a meter, you need to adjust the iris to desired peak light, you need to then adjust grayscale/gamma to the new iris position, and you SHOULDN'T need to touch the brightness control. All things that the user I was talking about clearly doesn't have the ability to do (meter and calibration) or shouldn't do (brightness). So again, my point being that many people should just swallow it and hire a calibrator, and this post clearly shows signs of that being the case.

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post #23469 of 32133 Old 03-30-2017, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post
Just curious, when I'm watching HDR content, I have my projector on HDR Picture Mode and BT2020 Color Profile (from the JVC guide). Is that correct?
Correct BT2020...but NEVER GAMMA D...it defaults to Gamma D, so you have to manually switch to the custom import for each movie and even as a pause, the mode reverts back to Gamma D and needs to be changed to the correct custom import

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post #23470 of 32133 Old 03-30-2017, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by stanger89 View Post
You are actually switching to your custom gamma manually right? Because if you don't have a Linker, every time you start a movie, or an HDMI handshake happens, the projector will switch back to Gamma D.
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Originally Posted by asharma View Post
Correct BT2020...but NEVER GAMMA D...it defaults to Gamma D, so you have to manually switch to the custom import for each movie and even as a pause, the mode reverts back to Gamma D and needs to be changed to the correct custom import
Correct. I noticed it kept flipping back to Gamma D. I already have to pause when I first play a movie to wait for the freaking 18 second handshake so I add 'verify gamma' to that.

Just to check though, I also have a HDR Picture Mode.

So: HDR Picture Mode + BT2020 Color Profile + Custom Gamma. Correct?
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post #23471 of 32133 Old 03-30-2017, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by DLCPhoto View Post
I'll suggest this one more time, since it doesn't appear you've tried it yet, from what you've written.

Rather than using Manni or somebody else's curves, or inputting parameters in Arve's software, just use lovingdvd's "Speed Guide." It is quite simple to do, and allows you to use the Projector's Brightness control to adjust those bright skies and such, to get them looking how you want, or think they should look, and when you hit 'Enter' the curve is then adjusted for this setting, and resets your Projector's Brightness control to 0. You can then write that curve to your projector.

You can still tweak that curve by adjusting bm or other parameters, to brighten or bring out shadow detail even more, but chances are it won't be necessary. Or you can adjust bbi and/or bbo, as outlined in that post, but again, chances are it won't be necessary.

If that doesn't work to give you a very good picture, then something else is likely out of whack, as Manni and others have suggested elsewhere.

In my room (RS400, large screen - 160" diagonal 2.35:1 (although 1.3 Gain), throw 18', not bat-cave) I have to run in High Lamp, but HDR now looks quite good. If you want to run in Low Lamp and have good results, you'll have to have a small screen, and/or high gain, shortish throw, and/or a true bat-cave.

HTH.

Don

I don't think he truly gets it but that's ok this is all a matter of taste anyhow.

I'm also using LD's speed guide and find it works very well (and takes like 7min!), and ironically when I brought up the actual RM clips screens I was only 1 click off by eye to the 4,000 clip point (not too shabby!). I use the -1 when I know I'm watching an actual 4,000 nit title but all other my Speed settings are good as GOLD!
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post #23472 of 32133 Old 03-30-2017, 12:00 PM
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So again, my point being that many people should just swallow it and hire a calibrator, and this post clearly shows signs of that being the case.
I wonder what percent of JVC RS500/600 (plus the new models) owners consider themselves calibration hobbyists? For them, the effort and struggle is integral. Everyone else should be hiring one of the handful of traveling professionals recommended time and again on the forum.

I, for one, haven't even bothered with UHD yet. I'm preparing. Sure. But what's the rush? Hopefully, everyone driving themselves bananas realizes that blu-ray will be king for many, many more years. Heck, there could be a thousand or more blu titles released tomorrow and there would still be DVD content yet to be updated!

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post #23473 of 32133 Old 03-30-2017, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by johnson636 View Post
Guys, the RS500 is my first PJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kris Deering View Post
This is a post that screams that the person needs a calibration and someone that knows what they are doing to setup the projector. Hoping that some previous calibration that was done in a completely different setup is a lost cause. And decreasing brightness "to see if that helps" is another big no go as it clearly implies that you don't understand what that setting does. If you are fiddling with things and trying to figure it out randomly, PAY A CALIBRATOR. Otherwise just do a full factory reset and use the natural picture mode and call it a day. It will probably be closer to calibrated than anything you're doing.
Allow me to give an example of "Turn the other cheek"
Thank you sir for your suggestion
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post #23474 of 32133 Old 03-30-2017, 12:59 PM
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Allow me to give an example of "Turn the other cheek"
Thank you sir for your suggestion
It's good to have a thicker skin, but kris is just being blunt. He's also an industry expert, so you should consider his post based on a ton of industry knowledge and experience.

If turning the other cheek means you are taking his comments to heart and considering his suggestions...great. If turning the other cheek means you are just going to ignore his comments, well frankly you are the one that will lose out on an opportunity to improve your picture.......and isn't that why we are all here to begin with?
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post #23475 of 32133 Old 03-30-2017, 01:27 PM
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It's good to have a thicker skin, but kris is just being blunt. He's also an industry expert, so you should consider his post based on a ton of industry knowledge and experience.

If turning the other cheek means you are taking his comments to heart and considering his suggestions...great. If turning the other cheek means you are just going to ignore his comments, well frankly you are the one that will lose out on an opportunity to improve your picture.......and isn't that why we are all here to begin with?
Well actually, my plan was to reset my pj to its factory settings when I got home. Was there something I said that
Would imply that I may not take Kris' advice
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post #23476 of 32133 Old 03-30-2017, 01:31 PM
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Correct. I noticed it kept flipping back to Gamma D. I already have to pause when I first play a movie to wait for the freaking 18 second handshake so I add 'verify gamma' to that.

Just to check though, I also have a HDR Picture Mode.

So: HDR Picture Mode + BT2020 Color Profile + Custom Gamma. Correct?
Correct and yes add 'verify gamma' to the list
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Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post
I just loaded in Manni's 800-335-400 and thought it was too dark. I tried Loving's 'bright' profile and though it was better.

For fun, I tried running WIP at:

bm: 10 (yes, 10)
bh: 4000
sc: 175

I thought it was too bright. So, at least I found something too bright. Right now I just entered BM @ 100 and its much closer.

I honestly don't know how anyone could watch a movie at bm 800 on low lamp. Y'all must have night vision goggles!

I like nice and bright images. No eye strain to see whats going on.
If your screen size is greater than 100 inches diagonal then there is a good chance that Manni's curves are not going to look good to you; especially not the 800 curve. As suggested use lovingdvd's instructions for the JVC Tool contrast method to create your own curve. It is so easy to do and the first one I created was so much better in my setup than any I had previously imported that were created by others.

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post #23478 of 32133 Old 03-30-2017, 02:43 PM
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If your screen size is greater than 100 inches diagonal then there is a good chance that Manni's curves are not going to look good to you; especially not the 800 curve. As suggested use lovingdvd's instructions for the JVC Tool contrast method to create your own curve. It is so easy to do and the first one I created was so much better in my setup than any I had previously imported that were created by others.
I'm going to do it tonight. I'm looking at lovingdvds steps now and am a bit confused by step 15, specifically the bbi, bbo part.

The Harry Potter UHD's are up next so I know I'll need a special, extraordinarily bright curve for them.
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post #23479 of 32133 Old 03-30-2017, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post
I'm going to do it tonight. I'm looking at lovingdvds steps now and am a bit confused by step 15, specifically the bbi, bbo part.

The Harry Potter UHD's are up next so I know I'll need a special, extraordinarily bright curve for them.
bbi bbo are for setting black levels...do you have the 4k patterns to properly set black levels?

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Well actually, my plan was to reset my pj to its factory settings when I got home. Was there something I said that
Would imply that I may not take Kris' advice
I guess I misinterpreted "turn the other cheek" to mean you were offended by his comments, but were going to take the high road and not respond negatively. Glad to see I was wrong. My apologies
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post #23481 of 32133 Old 03-30-2017, 02:55 PM
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I updated my original post to include a new version of the zip file - the curves are the same as before, but the conf files are now included. See the "Edit" note at the bottom of that post for more details: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-dig...l#post51658777
Thanks again for doing this...your medium conf file works perfectly with my screen and I don't have to adjust the parameters at all to set brightness and contrast using the RM files. I have the JVC & Oppo set at zeros for CN & BR as well. When I have some time, I am going to use your guide and see what I get...

As a reminder, I have a 130" wide Center Stage XD AT screen, RS-400, Oppo 203 & Linker...
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post #23482 of 32133 Old 03-30-2017, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post
I'm going to do it tonight. I'm looking at lovingdvds steps now and am a bit confused by step 15, specifically the bbi, bbo part.

The Harry Potter UHD's are up next so I know I'll need a special, extraordinarily bright curve for them.
Quote:
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bbi bbo are for setting black levels...do you have the 4k patterns to properly set black levels?
I think I'd keep things simple at the stage of the game, and not worry about black level, bbi, bbo, etc. Just do the main adjustment using the Contrast control, and call it a night. See what you think and go from there.

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post #23483 of 32133 Old 03-30-2017, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by asharma View Post
bbi bbo are for setting black levels...do you have the 4k patterns to properly set black levels?
I've got the Sony test patterns.

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Originally Posted by DLCPhoto View Post
I think I'd keep things simple at the stage of the game, and not worry about black level, bbi, bbo, etc. Just do the main adjustment using the Contrast control, and call it a night. See what you think and go from there.
Ok. When I did the black/white clip patterns before I was only 2-clicks away from what's recommended.
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post #23484 of 32133 Old 03-30-2017, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post
I've got the Sony test patterns.



Ok. When I did the black/white clip patterns before I was only 2-clicks away from what's recommended.
If you're talking about the Sony test patterns on a regular Blu-ray, then that's not going to give you what you need for setting levels with UHD Blu-ray.

If you're talking about the Sony test patterns on a UHD Blu-ray, I don't believe they have the Black patterns, and I found the White patterns to be almost unusable - they're very brief, and don't flash.

To do this effectively, you would need Ryan Masciola's HD10 patterns. So unless things seem really off after doing the main curve, I wouldn't worry about black level just now.

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post #23485 of 32133 Old 03-30-2017, 03:27 PM
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Official JVC RS600 / RS500 (X950R / X750R - X9000 / X7000) Owners Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by DLCPhoto View Post
If you're talking about the Sony test patterns on a regular Blu-ray, then that's not going to give you what you need for setting levels with UHD Blu-ray.



If you're talking about the Sony test patterns on a UHD Blu-ray, I don't believe they have the Black patterns, and I found the White patterns to be almost unusable - they're very brief, and don't flash.



To do this effectively, you would need Ryan Masciola's HD10 patterns. So unless things seem really off after doing the main curve, I wouldn't worry about black level just now.
I was referring to the Sony UHD patterns.

What is the benefit of the flashing? I mainly hear about people talking about test pattern 77 and 81 (I think) and those levels are available on the Sony disc and I just hit the pause button and it stays up forever.

I'm not opposed to buying things but if I have something that works...

I also have a Spyder 5. I know I can put that to use. The goal is to get it 90% there now and fine tune after I can absorb the info in Manni's thread that seems to start with "In the beginning God created the heavens and the earth"...2000 pages later, go forth and tune your JVC.

I just feel like the way my projector is operating UHD now is artificially darkening the entire picture too dark and drab so that the brightest image appears blinding (which creates very unpleasant images when skies and such are present) whereas the regular Blu-ray provides a pleasing image the entire time.
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post #23486 of 32133 Old 03-30-2017, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post
I was referring to the Sony UHD patterns.

What is the benefit of the flashing? I mainly hear about people talking about test pattern 77 and 81 (I think) and those levels are available on the Sony disc and I just hit the pause button and it stays up forever.

I'm not opposed to buying things but if I have something that works...

I also have a Spyder 5. I know I can put that to use. The goal is to get it 90% there now and fine tune after I can absorb the info in Manni's thread that seems to start with "In the beginning God created the heavens and the earth"...2000 pages later, go forth and tune your JVC.

I just feel like the way my projector is operating UHD now is artificially darkening the entire picture too dark and drab so that the brightest image appears blinding (which creates very unpleasant images when skies and such are present) whereas the regular Blu-ray provides a pleasing image the entire time.
Again, are you talking about the Sony patterns on a Regular Sony Blu-ray, or the Sony patterns on a Sony UHD Blu-ray?

In order to get the HDR patterns, you need to use the ones on a Sony UHD Blu-ray. I have tried this, and found they are not nearly as comprehensive as on a regular Blu-ray, and not nearly as useful. Perhaps the particular Sony UHD Disc I used was atypical, but perhaps not.

I really think that doing a straight-forward custom curve using the Contrast Adjustment method in lovingdvd's post will get you 90% of what you're looking for.

Autocalibration is a tougher nut to crack, and probably should be done, but for now, just see what you get HDR looking like with the custom curve approach.

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post #23487 of 32133 Old 03-30-2017, 03:34 PM
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Official JVC RS600 / RS500 (X950R / X750R - X9000 / X7000) Owners Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by DLCPhoto View Post
Again, are you talking about the Sony patterns on a Regular Sony Blu-ray, or the Sony patterns on a Sony UHD Blu-ray?



In order to get the HDR patterns, you need to use the ones on a Sony UHD Blu-ray. I have tried this, and found they are not nearly as comprehensive as on a regular Blu-ray, and not nearly as useful. Perhaps the particular Sony UHD Disc I used was atypical, but perhaps not.



I really think that doing a straight-forward custom curve using the Contrast Adjustment method in lovingdvd's post will get you 90% of what you're looking for.



Autocalibration is a tougher nut to crack, and probably should be done, but for now, just see what you get HDR looking like with the custom curve approach.
UHD discs. I may be green...but not THAT green.

Thanks for the info. I plan to watch some shows to let the projector warm up then do lovingdvds instructions followed by Harry Potter 6.

David Yates you brightness draining minx. I will conquer your darkness.
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post #23488 of 32133 Old 03-30-2017, 04:26 PM
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Being that I'm a total noob at front projection (or any projection for that matter) I would be grateful if any traveling calibrators that service Metro ATL shoot me a pm.

Thanks
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post #23489 of 32133 Old 03-30-2017, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by COACH2369 View Post
I was talking to him last night and it sounds like he is constantly improving his Gamma curves for HDR.

Just curious, what size and type screen do you have? Also- were you using SDR 2020 prior to him coming?
Thanks.


I have a Stewart " Luxus Model A Electriscreen" made with FireHawk G3 material.
I purchased it in 2007 and way back then it cost a whopping $3500.


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post #23490 of 32133 Old 03-30-2017, 04:49 PM
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...I'm also using LD's speed guide and find it works very well (and takes like 7min!)...
They don't call it the speed guide for nothin'

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If your screen size is greater than 100 inches diagonal then there is a good chance that Manni's curves are not going to look good to you; especially not the 800 curve. As suggested use lovingdvd's instructions for the JVC Tool contrast method to create your own curve. It is so easy to do and the first one I created was so much better in my setup than any I had previously imported that were created by others.
In addition to trying the speed guide, for those with less than 100 nits, I would try importing my Medium jgd curve from the zip file I posted. I watched the first Planet Earth II with my medium curve and it was fantastic. No HDR oddities which is a big win. I switched over to my darker curve on a few scenes to make sure I was not crushing (at least not in an obvious way) and for each A/B I found that the darker curve looked identical, just darker - confirming that the extra brightness I was getting from the medium curve was not impacting the color saturation or causing noticeable crush. That said it probably has less HDR highlights than compared to the dark version, but I like the medium much better, even if it is a bit more SDR-like (guessing). On the contrary. when looking at the snowy mountain in the opening scene with the Bright curve, it was blooming pretty significantly in certain portions. Switching to the Medium curve showed no blooming. It's quite nice to finally be fully content with both my calibration and HDR curve and overall PQ. Whew. That was at least 100-120 hour exercise.

Quote:
Originally Posted by asharma View Post
bbi bbo are for setting black levels...do you have the 4k patterns to properly set black levels?
He'll need at least the wip branch of Arve's tool. Otherwise he won't find those params, which may be his source of confusion.

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Originally Posted by laugsbach View Post
Thanks again for doing this...your medium conf file works perfectly with my screen and I don't have to adjust the parameters at all to set brightness and contrast using the RM files. I have the JVC & Oppo set at zeros for CN & BR as well. When I have some time, I am going to use your guide and see what I get...

As a reminder, I have a 130" wide Center Stage XD AT screen, RS-400, Oppo 203 & Linker...
Quote:
Originally Posted by tjenkins95 View Post
I have a Stewart " Luxus Model A Electriscreen" made with FireHawk G3 material.
I purchased it in 2007 and way back then it cost a whopping $3500.

Ray
Great! Very happy to hear others are benefiting from my curve. It was a ton of work so the more people that get good use out of it the better I feel about all the time invested learning how to do it and experimenting to find the proper "blend".
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