Official JVC RS600 / RS500 (X950R / X750R - X9000 / X7000) Owners Thread - Page 820 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #24571 of 31985 Old 05-23-2017, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post
I see what you did there...

I'm watching it now. The color palette and grading definitely is not exuding color richness....plenty bright though.


Is Logan mastered at 4000 nits or 1000 like all the other Fox titles?

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post #24572 of 31985 Old 05-23-2017, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by srinivas1015 View Post
Is Logan mastered at 4000 nits or 1000 like all the other Fox titles?
I am definitely the very last person who would know the answer to that question. I'd like to learn how to figure it out though! I'd also be interested in a nit list...I'm sure there is one somewhere on this forum, right?
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post #24573 of 31985 Old 05-23-2017, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by srinivas1015 View Post
Yes, exactly. Highlights are drastically more striking on 4000 nit titles. Even in Sully, the skies, the billboards in Times Square, etc are very very impressive. 1000 nit titles rarely reach that sort of high despite having many opportunities to do so. This is one of the main reasons that I found X-Men Apocalypse and Revenant underwhelming in regards to HDR.

The HDR in BvS is quite spectacular (the Kryptonite, the heat beams, the explosions, the gunfire, the car lights, etc). I haven't found another UHD hitting that level of visual awe.

It's a real shame that most titles are mastered at 1000 nits.
I honestly haven't noticed such a striking difference. What's your peak brightness (that you can actually achieve), maybe you've got a lot more headroom than I do. Also what sort of curve are you using?

That said, assuming your "issue" is a calibration one, it's relatively easy to solve. If your issue really is a calibration issue*, then the issue is that for 1000 nit titles you're leaving brightness unused (saved for 1000-4000 nit highlights) so the solution is simple, you just need two curves, one for 4000 nit titles that clips at 4000 nits, and one for 1000 nit titles. Then when you watch a 1000 nit title it will utilize the entire brightness range of your display. Remember these titles are mastered on (and for) displays that are capable of 10-40 times the brightness we can realistically achieve. So we're compressing highlights quite a bit, once you compress things, the difference between a 1000 nit title and a 4000 nit title is not really that significant. Further, not all titles use the full range, I think people found that a number of 4000 nit titles don't go above 2000-2500 nits.

*The question though is, is it really a calibration issue, or is it a content issue, and that's a tough one. I know The Revenant is, as best I could tell, a relative dull movie, I wouldn't expect much HDR "eyevisceration" from that title. In my setup, I'd say X-Men:A and BvS are relatively similar in overall look, and I haven't seen Sully. Other than talking to the folks who did the masters, or watching on a proper mastering monitor, we only have user consensus to determine what these titles are really supposed to look like.

FWIW, I can hit maybe 100 nits peak on my setup, so I don't have a lot of headroom for highlights, I have to run a reasonably aggressive curve.
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post #24574 of 31985 Old 05-23-2017, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Garrett View Post
Your problem is the setup. Countless people have told you this again and again. If your curve is good, then your movies will never appear as dark as what you are showing and that is without making any changes in the player or projector. In other words, one curve will work for all titles and look good, not dark like you are showing them. Though if you want it truly optimized, then two curves would be better.
Exactly! No idea what Dreamliner has done to result in such dark titles. Most of us are guessing that since he doesn't have the Linker, the JVC is switching back to GammaD at some point. That would account for it, but he's saying that's not the case.

I run a single curve that's imported in Custom1 gamma. Never need to change anything based on the title after selecting BT.2020 (renamed user2 profile) which sets the color, gamma, lamp, etc. (zero'd CR/BR). Since most of the information is well under 1000 nits, the only difference between 1000 and 4000 titles (if not borked, like Watchman) should be the highlights are more "spectacular" with 4000 nit titles. Shouldn't need to adjust CR/BR from 0 if you've got a curve done right for your peak nit.

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post #24575 of 31985 Old 05-23-2017, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by stevenjw View Post
Exactly! No idea what Dreamliner has done to result in such dark titles. Most of us are guessing that since he doesn't have the Linker, the JVC is switching back to GammaD at some point. That would account for it, but he's saying that's not the case.
The other thought I had is that maybe he's feeding it SDR rather than HDR. When you engage an HDR curve on SDR video (IIRC I think I've got this right) all the mid/dark tones are very, very dark, while highlights are all but blown out.

We really need to see all of the settings and info screens to figure out what dreamliner is actually seeing/doing.
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post #24576 of 31985 Old 05-23-2017, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by srinivas1015 View Post
Is Logan mastered at 4000 nits or 1000 like all the other Fox titles?
Should be 1000. If you hold down the info button while watching the movie it will show in the advanced info screen on your Oppo. Don't just press info, hold it down until a bigger info window comes up.

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post #24577 of 31985 Old 05-23-2017, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by stevenjw View Post
Exactly! No idea what Dreamliner has done to result in such dark titles. Most of us are guessing that since he doesn't have the Linker, the JVC is switching back to GammaD at some point. That would account for it, but he's saying that's not the case.

I run a single curve that's imported in Custom1 gamma. Never need to change anything based on the title after selecting BT.2020 (renamed user2 profile) which sets the color, gamma, lamp, etc. (zero'd CR/BR). Since most of the information is well under 1000 nits, the only difference between 1000 and 4000 titles (if not borked, like Watchman) should be the highlights are more "spectacular" with 4000 nit titles. Shouldn't need to adjust CR/BR from 0 if you've got a curve done right for your peak nit.

The Dead Horse is now stinking. Clearly time to bury it and move on. Worst case, call Chad for cremation.


And for those that don't know or keep up with the Linker thread and you have a D&M receiver Ken @HDfury announced a new Denon/Marantz geared FW that has been very solid so far!
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post #24578 of 31985 Old 05-24-2017, 07:05 AM
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ANY PROBLEM WITH THIS UHD PLAN FOR MY JVC?

Folks,

I finally scheduled a calibration for UHD for my RS600 which mean....I now actually have to get UHD set up for my display!

I have the Panny and the Oppo UHD players, still boxed, and figure I'm going to use the Panny (I have the HDfury etc, I hope that stuff is easy enough to set up).

My main questions:

1. I don't have a UHD compatible switcher so I have to run all my HD stuff to the HDMI input 1 of my JVC, and then a direct connection from the Panny UHD player to my JVC HDMI input 2. (Or visa versa - as I currently ).

I would then switch to the second HDMI input only when I want to watch a UHD source. Is there anything wrong with that plan? I don't know if there is some "HDMI 2 won't work for UHD" bug lurking there that would foil things.

2. I need a long HDMI run so I'm about to order the CELERITY fibre optic HDMI cable that others have used. As far as I can tell, I just need to order the cable and it comes with the HDMI connectors and a usb power cable, is that correct?

http://www.celeritytek.com/product-DFO.html

I'm wondering how other JVC owners have addressed the fact the Celerity cable needs usb power at the display end, but the JVC doesn't have any usb inputs, so how are you powering the Celerity cable? My projector lifts about 6 feet from the ground, so I suppose I could use either a long USB extension cable to a hub on the ground near my wall AC output...or something like that.

Thanks!

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post #24579 of 31985 Old 05-24-2017, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Kris Deering View Post
Should be 1000. If you hold down the info button while watching the movie it will show in the advanced info screen on your Oppo. Don't just press info, hold it down until a bigger info window comes up.
Yes, Logan is a 1000 nit title. Both the Oppo and Linker report it as such.

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post #24580 of 31985 Old 05-24-2017, 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by R Harkness View Post
ANY PROBLEM WITH THIS UHD PLAN FOR MY JVC?

Folks,

I finally scheduled a calibration for UHD for my RS600 which mean....I now actually have to get UHD set up for my display!

I have the Panny and the Oppo UHD players, still boxed, and figure I'm going to use the Panny (I have the HDfury etc, I hope that stuff is easy enough to set up).

My main questions:

1. I don't have a UHD compatible switcher so I have to run all my HD stuff to the HDMI input 1 of my JVC, and then a direct connection from the Panny UHD player to my JVC HDMI input 2. (Or visa versa - as I currently ).

I would then switch to the second HDMI input only when I want to watch a UHD source. Is there anything wrong with that plan? I don't know if there is some "HDMI 2 won't work for UHD" bug lurking there that would foil things.

2. I need a long HDMI run so I'm about to order the CELERITY fibre optic HDMI cable that others have used. As far as I can tell, I just need to order the cable and it comes with the HDMI connectors and a usb power cable, is that correct?

http://www.celeritytek.com/product-DFO.html

I'm wondering how other JVC owners have addressed the fact the Celerity cable needs usb power at the display end, but the JVC doesn't have any usb inputs, so how are you powering the Celerity cable? My projector lifts about 6 feet from the ground, so I suppose I could use either a long USB extension cable to a hub on the ground near my wall AC output...or something like that.

Thanks!
With regards to the Celerity, this cable fails at 2160p/60Hz 4:2:2 HDR, I personally wouldn't recommend it. You might want to look at the RuiPro hybrid cables which are reported to be more reliable at the highest data rates. Those also don't require a USB connection for power, and they're cheaper to boot!
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post #24581 of 31985 Old 05-24-2017, 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post
I am definitely the very last person who would know the answer to that question. I'd like to learn how to figure it out though! I'd also be interested in a nit list...I'm sure there is one somewhere on this forum, right?
This Google Sheet lists HDR metadata for 73 titles.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

36 are 1000 nits.
04 are 1100 nits.
32 are 4000 nits.

And then there is Life of Pi that reports zero nits.
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Last edited by claw; 05-24-2017 at 07:38 AM.
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post #24582 of 31985 Old 05-24-2017, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by R Harkness View Post
2. I need a long HDMI run so I'm about to order the CELERITY fibre optic HDMI cable that others have used. As far as I can tell, I just need to order the cable and it comes with the HDMI connectors and a usb power cable, is that correct?


Thanks!
I would look at Monoprice cable. There is a thread somewhere on the board that is testing all these 4K HDMI cables. They pass 4K60 8-bit and are half the cost of Celerity. More importantly, you get that Monoprice LIFETIME warranty on the cable.

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=21568

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post #24583 of 31985 Old 05-24-2017, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Wookii View Post
With regards to the Celerity, this cable fails at 2160p/60Hz 4:2:2 HDR, I personally wouldn't recommend it. You might want to look at the RuiPro hybrid cables which are reported to be more reliable at the highest data rates. Those also don't require a USB connection for power, and they're cheaper to boot!
The ones without the detachable ends passed everything:
https://www.soundandvision.com/conte...hdmi-20-page-2
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post #24584 of 31985 Old 05-24-2017, 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by R Harkness View Post
ANY PROBLEM WITH THIS UHD PLAN FOR MY JVC?

Folks,

I finally scheduled a calibration for UHD for my RS600 which mean....I now actually have to get UHD set up for my display!

I have the Panny and the Oppo UHD players, still boxed, and figure I'm going to use the Panny (I have the HDfury etc, I hope that stuff is easy enough to set up).

My main questions:

1. I don't have a UHD compatible switcher so I have to run all my HD stuff to the HDMI input 1 of my JVC, and then a direct connection from the Panny UHD player to my JVC HDMI input 2. (Or visa versa - as I currently ).

I would then switch to the second HDMI input only when I want to watch a UHD source. Is there anything wrong with that plan? I don't know if there is some "HDMI 2 won't work for UHD" bug lurking there that would foil things.

2. I need a long HDMI run so I'm about to order the CELERITY fibre optic HDMI cable that others have used. As far as I can tell, I just need to order the cable and it comes with the HDMI connectors and a usb power cable, is that correct?

http://www.celeritytek.com/product-DFO.html

I'm wondering how other JVC owners have addressed the fact the Celerity cable needs usb power at the display end, but the JVC doesn't have any usb inputs, so how are you powering the Celerity cable? My projector lifts about 6 feet from the ground, so I suppose I could use either a long USB extension cable to a hub on the ground near my wall AC output...or something like that.

Thanks!
Rich:

Yes, I used a USB extension cable and ran it back into my ceiling (into the attic) where I could plug it into an outlet in the attic.



Ron
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post #24585 of 31985 Old 05-24-2017, 07:53 AM
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Thanks for the replies!

OMG! Months and months of looking into this stuff and finally thinking I had the right solution, and now I hear that even the Celerity cables are a problem and may not work?

I almost feel like just throwing in the towel on UHD....

rboster...how long is your celerity cable and is it passing everything you need?
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post #24586 of 31985 Old 05-24-2017, 08:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R Harkness View Post
ANY PROBLEM WITH THIS UHD PLAN FOR MY JVC?

Folks,

I finally scheduled a calibration for UHD for my RS600 which mean....I now actually have to get UHD set up for my display!


Thanks!
Glad to see you are finally getting UHD set up after all this time. Being in the Toronto area as well, I couldn't find a single calibrator who was willing (or even knew how) to run the JVC calibration software or to use Arve's tool to create a custom curve. But thanks to the helpful and knowledgeable folks on this forum, I have been able to get UHD looking spectacular without the help of a pro calibrator. I am curious as to which local calibrator you are using and whether he/she will be using JVC software in conjunction with Arve's tool. Cause if they are not, I would strongly reconsider.
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post #24587 of 31985 Old 05-24-2017, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wookii View Post
With regards to the Celerity, this cable fails at 2160p/60Hz 4:2:2 HDR, I personally wouldn't recommend it. You might want to look at the RuiPro hybrid cables which are reported to be more reliable at the highest data rates. Those also don't require a USB connection for power, and they're cheaper to boot!
Quote:
Originally Posted by stanger89 View Post
The ones without the detachable ends passed everything:
https://www.soundandvision.com/conte...hdmi-20-page-2
Not quite correct. The Celerity cable with detachable ends does pass full 18Gbps HDMI. The chart shows it passed. The Celerity that did not pass in his tests is the Celerity that uses wall plates and two additional cables.

This is what did not pass:
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post #24588 of 31985 Old 05-24-2017, 08:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R Harkness View Post
Thanks for the replies!

OMG! Months and months of looking into this stuff and finally thinking I had the right solution, and now I hear that even the Celerity cables are a problem and may not work?

I almost feel like just throwing in the towel on UHD....

rboster...how long is your celerity cable and is it passing everything you need?
See here: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-dig...l#post53188594
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post #24589 of 31985 Old 05-24-2017, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by stanger89 View Post
The ones without the detachable ends passed everything:
https://www.soundandvision.com/conte...hdmi-20-page-2
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Garrett View Post
Not quite correct. The Celerity cable with detachable ends does pass full 18Gbps HDMI. The chart shows it passed. The Celerity that did not pass in his tests is the Celerity that uses wall plates and two additional cables.

This is what did not pass:
Inspite of that review and the tests within it, the Celerity cable doesn't pass full 18Gbps. I have the cable, and I have regular drop outs on 2160p/60Hz content, as do a number of other Lumagen Pro users. Lumagen themselves recommend against the cable.
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post #24590 of 31985 Old 05-24-2017, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post
I am definitely the very last person who would know the answer to that question. I'd like to learn how to figure it out though! I'd also be interested in a nit list...I'm sure there is one somewhere on this forum, right?
It's hard to keep up with this, but there is a list here - somewhere. Who knew the term " nit wit " was so far ahead of it's time !
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post #24591 of 31985 Old 05-24-2017, 08:42 AM
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Latest comparison of cables is here: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/168-hd...hdmi-2-0b.html

AFAIK, the bee's knees are Ruipro and Monoprice SlimRun, not Celerity.
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post #24592 of 31985 Old 05-24-2017, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by cannga View Post
Latest comparison of cables is here: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/168-hd...hdmi-2-0b.html

AFAIK, the bee's knees are Ruipro and Monoprice SlimRun, not Celerity.
Good stuff - glad I bought a RuiPro to replace my Celerity then!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R Harkness View Post
ANY PROBLEM WITH THIS UHD PLAN FOR MY JVC?
Folks,

2. I need a long HDMI run so I'm about to order the CELERITY fibre optic HDMI cable that others have used. As far as I can tell, I just need to order the cable and it comes with the HDMI connectors and a usb power cable, is that correct?

http://www.celeritytek.com/product-DFO.html

I'm wondering how other JVC owners have addressed the fact the Celerity cable needs usb power at the display end, but the JVC doesn't have any usb inputs, so how are you powering the Celerity cable? My projector lifts about 6 feet from the ground, so I suppose I could use either a long USB extension cable to a hub on the ground near my wall AC output...or something like that.

Latest comparison of cables is here: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/168-hd...hdmi-2-0b.html

AFAIK, the bee's knees are Ruipro and Monoprice SlimRun, not Celerity. Neither Ruipro or Monoprice Slimrun needs to be powered at either end IIRC, and both are cheaper than Celerity.

Regards, Can
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post #24594 of 31985 Old 05-24-2017, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Wookii View Post
Inspite of that review and the tests within it, the Celerity cable doesn't pass full 18Gbps. I have the cable, and I have regular drop outs on 2160p/60Hz content, as do a number of other Lumagen Pro users. Lumagen themselves recommend against the cable.
Good info, my cables work for me (only 25') so I hadn't seen anything since that S&V article.
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post #24595 of 31985 Old 05-24-2017, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by cannga View Post
Latest comparison of cables is here: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/168-hd...hdmi-2-0b.html

AFAIK, the bee's knees are Ruipro and Monoprice SlimRun, not Celerity. Neither Ruipro or Monoprice Slimrun needs to be powered at either end IIRC, and both are cheaper than Celerity.

BTW, the above comparison did not test what likely is the "best" traditional/copper (non fiberoptic) HDMI cable available currently: Blue Jeans Cable Belden Series 1E http://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/...hdmi-cable.htm. Below is my own experience with some copper HDMI's cables:

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/168-hd...l#post52758025
System is Oppo 203 straight to JVC RS500 projector. *All results* still pending long term testing, and may not be applicable to your system. I merely want to add to the database.

1. Monoprice 25 ft: "Certified Premium High Speed HDMI Cable, HDR" as described on ebay, $29. Doesn't work. Full refund given by official ebay Monoprice seller.
2. OLD Blue Jeans Series 1 about 40 ft: This 5 year old cable is labeled "Series 1." I did not realize that there have been different versions of Series 1 cables: old (Series 1) and new (Series 1E). This is the old version and it's not a surprise that at 40 ft it doesn't work. (It's my hometheater's existing cable that was pulled through wall a few years ago.)
3. Generic No Name HDMI Cable 10 ft: Says HDMI 1.3 on the cable (!!). Don't even remember where it came from :-). 10 ft - Works perfect. That this cable works is key to me regarding high speed HDMI: for once in life, shorter is better LOL. Pending others' input, I would speculate therefore most generic short length cables should work for high speed HDMI function.
4. NEW Blue Jeans Series 1E 25 ft: This latest cable is labeled "High Speed HDMI Series 1E". Note the E. 25 ft - Works perfect.
5. NEW Blue Jeans Series 1E 35 ft: "High Speed HDMI Series 1E". Note the E. 35 ft - Works perfect. Very happy with this.
6. Generic 10 ft HDMI + HDFury Linker + Blue Jeans 1E 35 ft: For those, particularly JVC RSx00 (cheers), who use the Linker. Here Linker also acts as a bridge to extend connection to 45 ft - Works perfect.

In number 6, my earlier "theory" of using Linker as a bridge to lengthen copper HDMI connection was tested and worked out perfectly.

Regards, Can
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post #24596 of 31985 Old 05-24-2017, 09:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cannga View Post
2. OLD Blue Jeans Series 1 about 40 ft: This 5 year old cable is labeled "Series 1." I did not realize that there have been different versions of Series 1 cables: old (Series 1) and new (Series 1E). This is the old version and it's not a surprise that at 40 ft it doesn't work. (It's my hometheater's existing cable that was pulled through wall a few years ago.)
I've got an "old" Series 1 cable (ordered in 2012), 25' and it seems to work perfect. By "perfect" I mean works with the Samsung main menu, but I haven't actually purposefully tried to send 18Gbps through it, so no guarantees I've actually tested it at 18Gbps. I'm guessing your old Series 1 didn't work, more because it was too long than because it's old. I believe BJC has only received High Speed certification up to 25', so anything beyond that is good luck
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post #24597 of 31985 Old 05-24-2017, 10:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wookii View Post
Inspite of that review and the tests within it, the Celerity cable doesn't pass full 18Gbps. I have the cable, and I have regular drop outs on 2160p/60Hz content, as do a number of other Lumagen Pro users. Lumagen themselves recommend against the cable.
Make sure you are not talking about one of their older cables. I have sold a lot of these cables and they have been working for all of my customers at 18Gbps, except for one and he received a defective cable. It would not pass anything.

Added
I noticed in Arrow's testing they said they had four of each cable and tested each cable four times. Three of the Celerity cables passed every time and one cable did not pass every time. He may have had a defective cable. Also I may have missed it, but I did not see it in the report, as far as how the Celerity cables were connected. Did they have USB power at one end or both ends.?
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Last edited by Mike Garrett; 05-24-2017 at 10:52 AM.
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post #24598 of 31985 Old 05-24-2017, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by woofer View Post
For anyone that wants to see just how amazing a standard "old" Bluray can look....grab a copy of "Tomorrowland" http://www.imdb.com/title/tt1964418/

It is truly a stunning example that will make you question the difference between Bluray/rec709 and UHD/rec2020.
No. Just, no. No one should be using this blu-ray to show the difference. Ever. Ok, well, until Disney starts releasing UHD. Then we'll compare. They'd have to screw up pretty badly for a proper UHD transfer to not destroy the 1080P.

I continue to be amazed that there are members here failing to recognize the look of various digital cameras. When you hit play on Tomorrowland, then the first thing you should be thinking is, "ok, that's digital (and not film) but not an Arri Alexa and it doesn't look like a Red", followed by, "this must be that Sony which is super bright, sharp, and pops, but lacks depth and maybe can't even be used for dark scenes".

Frankly, the best digital is possibly that Arri Alexa 65. Many films being fawned over in this thread were filmed with it. Nothing beats large format film yet though.

Finally, who calibrated your projector?

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post #24599 of 31985 Old 05-24-2017, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Garrett View Post
Make sure you are not talking about one of their older cables. I have sold a lot of these cables and they have been working for all of my customers at 18Gbps, except for one and he received a defective cable. It would not pass anything.

Added
I noticed in Arrow's testing they said they had four of each cable and tested each cable four times. Three of the Celerity cables passed every time and one cable did not pass every time. He may have had a defective cable. Also I may have missed it, but I did not see it in the report, as far as how the Celerity cables were connected. Did they have USB power at one end or both ends.?
Mike, it was a brand new cable supplied just before Christmas from a new batch delivered into the Uk the week before. Celerity even sent me a updated version of their DFO connectors several weeks ago, which they are only issuing to people having problems with the connectors supplied with the cable. The new connectors made a small difference but still don't work.

Drop outs occur after around 30 minutes to an hour of use, and then happen repeatedly thereafter.

I'm sure the cables work fine in some systems, particularly those that rarely ever go above 10.2Gbps. But up it to 18Gbps and they simply aren't reliable. There are sufficient users of this cable that have experienced problems with it for them not to be considered isolated cases.

Besides which, when there are cheaper options, that don't require the added complexity of additional USB power, and are reported to work flawlessly, why bother even risking it.
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post #24600 of 31985 Old 05-24-2017, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by R Harkness View Post
1. I don't have a UHD compatible switcher so I have to run all my HD stuff to the HDMI input 1 of my JVC, and then a direct connection from the Panny UHD player to my JVC HDMI input 2. (Or visa versa - as I currently ).

I would then switch to the second HDMI input only when I want to watch a UHD source. Is there anything wrong with that plan? I don't know if there is some "HDMI 2 won't work for UHD" bug lurking there that would foil things.
From what I recall, the HDMI 2 port will NOT accept HDR on the RS600.
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