Originally Posted by krichter1
If you're talking about HDR then unlike the K8500's BS'n around with the old +7/+3 yaddayaddayadda... the Oppo doesn't need any of that so it should be fairly plugNplay. I assume you already have the BT.2020 profile loaded for HDR/SDR so if you're not up to speed on using the custom Arve/Manni gammas (or an HD Linker), then I'm sorry to tell you that GammaD's shortcomings won't look too much better on the Oppo than what you were used to seeing on the Sammy.
Your real golden ticket to good HDR is going to be your willingness to either read up on the Arve tool gamma creation process and get yourself an HDFury Linker, or hire a qualified calibrator to get all this working for you (OR play around w/ the "Strip HDR" function of the Oppo so you can watch your 4K's in SDR BT.2020; which would be my recommendation at minimum if you can't do the above work). Unless you have a setup like Manni where you have plenty of headroom well over 100+ Nits then the Oppo's greatest feature for you will be playing around with its "Strip" function (but that to has it's flaws where it can't resolve to .05% black sweet spot).
Very helpful info... Yes, I have the BT.2020 profile
loaded, but no custom gamma
. I have the Linker
, but, just as I was starting to get the Oppo integrated into the system, the Linker broke (power connector problems), and I have sent it back for replacement. I wouldn't expect to get it back for a couple of weeks, at the minimum.
I am guessing that, theoretically-speaking, I am working with something on the order of 110-120 nits
... I base this on the fact that my screen is 88" x 50" (2.84 sq m) along with the following calculations:
1300 lumens / 2.84 sq m ==> 457.7 lux / 3.1416 ==> 145.7 nits * .8 screen gain ==> 116.6 nits
(Is that even correct? I seem to recall measuring
something in that vicinity, but that was a year ago.)
I have been experimenting on the Oppo with HDR as well as disabled and stripped HDR. While the 'D' curve looks right, the results are just too dark, overall, for enjoyment. And, oddly, turning on high-lamp mode makes it bright enough, but then it looks wrong...
Originally Posted by nathan_h
the question is impossible to answer without more data.
Do you have a custom gamma for hdr, or not. Do you have the rec2020 profile? Did you ever upgrade the firmware?
What settings were you using on the Samsung for UHD disks? What settings on the JVC?
Do you know how to use the autocal tool? Are you a tinkerer? Do you use a professional to calibrate? What light output can your setup achieve? Do you use a HD Fury device? Etc.
I could say: At the very least, using the sdr2020 output on the Oppo -- strip metadata -- while imperfect will probably be an improvement over gamma D.
But that makes a lot of assumptions about you and your setup. If you post more data, I suspect some folks here could guide you.
Thanks for that guidance...
Here are the principle components in the chain:
UDP-203 -> Marantz 8802a -> [HDfury] -> RS600 -> Screen Acoustics:V6 (~50" x ~88" => ~100" diagonal) AT screen (.8 gain)
I have both the Integral
and the Linker
. Although, as I mentioned, the Linker is out of commission for a couple of weeks (at least).
I haven't checked the firmware (I assumed you were talking about the RS600) lately, but I did upgrade it early on, and went through the autocal
steps. Also, as I mentioned, I acquired the BT.2020 profile, and followed the other steps Manni outlined...
So, yes, I don't mind the tinkering too much, as I have done it before, but I have a lot of demands on my time, and I get frustrated with a moving target... if you take my meaning. And I'm not just referring to the fact that I swapped out the Samsung for the Oppo. Anyway, I have a Spyder 4 Elite
(not calibrated), and a CA811
If there is a way to experience HDR with this setup, then I'll go through the steps. But, if not, then I would prefer to just cut my losses, as it were, and do whatever it takes, as perceived by the greatest number of experimenters, to get the best compromise possible. I hope that makes sense. I'm just hoping that there is a, generally regarded, right
I suppose I could ask a calibrator to come in... if HDR is possible with this setup, when properly calibrated, then it might be worth it. Especially if it is likely to be beyond my own capabilities. I'm in the Phoenix area. I don't know who works this region (of those that are thought of highly on this forum).