JVC Calibration Software V6 For 2015 Models (X9000,X7000,X5000,RS400,RS500,RS600) - Page 103 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #3061 of 4164 Old 03-27-2018, 01:14 PM
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Hey Guys!
I´m going nuts here trying to perform my first autocal on a R440
The autocal does´nt seem too accept my Spyder5 placement
No matter were I place it the software shows it as being just up next too the screen.
And when running the autocal it does of course not work..

I tried the environmental settings and the software found the Spyder without a hassle and i could do those measurements
I´m sure i´m just missing something obvious, just cant figure out what?
The Spyder software is not active on the computer so I dont think thats messing it up either

Anyone with a quick tip?
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post #3062 of 4164 Old 03-27-2018, 01:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikethespike View Post
Hey Guys!
I´m going nuts here trying to perform my first autocal on a R440
The autocal does´nt seem too accept my Spyder5 placement
No matter were I place it the software shows it as being just up next too the screen.
And when running the autocal it does of course not work..

I tried the environmental settings and the software found the Spyder without a hassle and i could do those measurements
I´m sure i´m just missing something obvious, just cant figure out what?
The Spyder software is not active on the computer so I dont think thats messing it up either

Anyone with a quick tip?
You probably forgot to remove the cap covering the sensor.
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post #3063 of 4164 Old 03-27-2018, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
You probably forgot to remove the cap covering the sensor.
No further comments, this noob will put the shame to work for awhile.. hahaha
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post #3064 of 4164 Old 03-28-2018, 07:36 PM
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Pretty much everyone does that the first time.
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post #3065 of 4164 Old 03-29-2018, 05:28 AM
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Originally Posted by nathan_h View Post
Pretty much everyone does that the first time.


Yup. Guilty. For almost a whole day scratching head


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post #3066 of 4164 Old 03-30-2018, 07:36 AM
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At ~450hrs. I decided to run another gamma autocal on my X990 for SDR & HDR to correct any droop. Everything seemed to go as expected, however I noticed that the color temp for SDR ended up about D6200 and HDR was closer to D7000. Is this normal or do I have a bad Spyder? I remember it doing something similar the first time I autocal'd (around 100 hours) but didn't think much of it at the time.
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post #3067 of 4164 Old 03-30-2018, 07:45 AM
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If I am only doing the gamma using the autocal, do I have to run it for SDR and then again for HDR or does one run do both?

Last edited by Des511; 03-30-2018 at 07:51 AM.
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post #3068 of 4164 Old 03-30-2018, 08:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlarsen462 View Post
At ~450hrs. I decided to run another gamma autocal on my X990 for SDR & HDR to correct any droop. Everything seemed to go as expected, however I noticed that the color temp for SDR ended up about D6200 and HDR was closer to D7000. Is this normal or do I have a bad Spyder? I remember it doing something similar the first time I autocal'd (around 100 hours) but didn't think much of it at the time.
How did you decide the color temp is those values after the fact? Measure with another meter and tool? Most people need to fine tune color temp with a second meter and different software after running autocal with a Spyder.

Of course, if you just want to correct droop, I believe you can limit your autocal refresh to gamma.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Des511 View Post
If I am only doing the gamma using the autocal, do I have to run it for SDR and then again for HDR or does one run do both?
One run sets the baseline for all gamma's IIRC.
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post #3069 of 4164 Old 03-30-2018, 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Des511 View Post
If I am only doing the gamma using the autocal, do I have to run it for SDR and then again for HDR or does one run do both?
Depending on which projector you have. The RSx00 models do not have any built-in HDR support other than “Gamma D”, and the same calibration will cover all gammas for the same lamp power / CMD combination.

With the newer models, I am still struggling with getting autocal to work properly with the built-in HDR/BT2020.
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post #3070 of 4164 Old 03-30-2018, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by nathan_h View Post
How did you decide the color temp is those values after the fact? Measure with another meter and tool? Most people need to fine tune color temp with a second meter and different software after running autocal with a Spyder.

Of course, if you just want to correct droop, I believe you can limit your autocal refresh to gamma.
Okay I wasn't completely clear...I ran 33 point gamma ONLY for SDR and HDR "normal" gamma (I use Javs custom curves for HDR in the custom slots after the fact). Not messing with color as I only have a Spyder and I know they can be sketchy for color.

The D6200 for SDR and D7000 for HDR (targeting D6500 for both) were based on the plot it shows at the end of calibration, where all the little dots (presumably the grayscale "post-calibration" measurements it takes) lie. Neither SDR nor HDR were particularly close to D6500, in opposite directions.


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Originally Posted by nathan_h View Post
One run sets the baseline for all gamma's IIRC.
Not sure this is correct? And if it is, my problem above is a bigger one, isn't it? Since I am getting totally different color temp targets for SDR and HDR measurements? Or am I thinking about this totally wrong, does doing 33-point gamma only not affect the color temp target? Would I have to run color for those to change?
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post #3071 of 4164 Old 03-30-2018, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by rlarsen462 View Post
Or am I thinking about this totally wrong, does doing 33-point gamma only not affect the color temp target? Would I have to run color for those to change?
Running “gamma only” autocal does not change the colour temperature, but the software still reports what it measures.
Since you don’t trust the Spyder for colour accuracy (I believe that’s the reason you ran autocal for gamma correction only), just ignore those numbers. There’s nothing you can do without a more accurate meter.
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post #3072 of 4164 Old 03-30-2018, 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
Running “gamma only” autocal does not change the colour temperature, but the software still reports what it measures.
Since you don’t trust the Spyder for colour accuracy (I believe that’s the reason you ran autocal for gamma correction only), just ignore those numbers. There’s nothing you can do without a more accurate meter.
Realistically neither of the compatible autocal meters are particularly trustworthy, right? So for real color calibration you're left with buying something really expensive and doing it manually?

Unfortunately I'm well off the beaten path for Chad B, so no idea when or if he'll make it this way.
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post #3073 of 4164 Old 03-30-2018, 08:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlarsen462 View Post
Realistically neither of the compatible autocal meters are particularly trustworthy, right? So for real color calibration you're left with buying something really expensive and doing it manually?
The Spyder does a decent job calibrating the gamma.

To fine-tune the colour calibration, many people use the x-rite i1Display Pro ($258), or the “economy version” Colormunki Display ($168).
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Last edited by Dominic Chan; 04-11-2018 at 05:49 PM.
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post #3074 of 4164 Old 03-30-2018, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
Many people use the x-rite i1Display Pro ($258), or the “economy version” Colormunki Display ($168).
Right that's the "other" option you can select besides Spyder in autocal...couldn't remember off the top of my head, but I could have sworn I read it's really not significantly better/less subject to manufacturing variation than the Spyder?
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post #3075 of 4164 Old 03-30-2018, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by rlarsen462 View Post
Right that's the "other" option you can select besides Spyder in autocal...couldn't remember off the top of my head, but I could have sworn I read it's really not significantly better/less subject to manufacturing variation than the Spyder?
The i1Display Pro is very accurate as long as you’re not dealing with “exotic” display types like OLED, in which case you may have to use a Spectrophotometer to generate a specific profile for it.
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post #3076 of 4164 Old 03-30-2018, 11:03 AM
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I've seen the ColorMunki as low as $99 on Amazon or B&H photo. If you are doing your own calibration work, I think its a good investment.

(And regarding Chad's travel schedule: Just let his scheduler know you want a visit and they'll file that away for when he is next in your general area or as a trigger to create such a trip. If enough people do that, he'll schedule a trip based on that. But if everyone just waits for an announcement about a plan to be in your area, rather than registering on his web site, he'll likely never make a trip there, on the assumption that there is no interest because no one took five minutes to send his scheduler a request via his web site.)
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post #3077 of 4164 Old 03-30-2018, 01:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlarsen462 View Post
At ~450hrs. I decided to run another gamma autocal on my X990 for SDR & HDR to correct any droop. Everything seemed to go as expected, however I noticed that the color temp for SDR ended up about D6200 and HDR was closer to D7000. Is this normal or do I have a bad Spyder? I remember it doing something similar the first time I autocal'd (around 100 hours) but didn't think much of it at the time.
I've encountered this same issue before and spend days posting about it and comparing settings with others. But ultimately I figured out that with CMD set to LOW or HIGH it will NOT calibrated to D65, instead it is more like 6700-6800. When I turn CMD OFF then I get something MUCH improved and very close to D65. I posted about it here, but that was many many months ago, possibly a year. HTH.
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post #3078 of 4164 Old 03-30-2018, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post
I've encountered this same issue before and spend days posting about it and comparing settings with others. But ultimately I figured out that with CMD set to LOW or HIGH it will NOT calibrated to D65, instead it is more like 6700-6800. When I turn CMD OFF then I get something MUCH improved and very close to D65. I posted about it here, but that was many many months ago, possibly a year. HTH.
Assuming you do use CMD (at least some of the time), you will need to run calibrations with CMD on and with CMD off. The results are saved in different tables.
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post #3079 of 4164 Old 03-30-2018, 05:04 PM
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Assuming you do use CMD (at least some of the time), you will need to run calibrations with CMD on and with CMD off. The results are saved in different tables.
I've read this before, and I have no doubt that you're correct.

Has anybody made any 'real-world' observations do see how much visible impact it really makes? I recently redid my Autocal, only with CMD off, and forgot to rerun with CMD on. To my eye, things look excellent, even when CMD is on, so wonder how big a difference this makes.

The next time I'll remember to run with it on and off, but I have wondered about this.

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post #3080 of 4164 Old 03-30-2018, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlarsen462 View Post
Right that's the "other" option you can select besides Spyder in autocal...couldn't remember off the top of my head, but I could have sworn I read it's really not significantly better/less subject to manufacturing variation than the Spyder?
To clarify the Xrite meter you reference is not the other one in the autocal. You would need the "X-rite i1 Pro2" to utilize the JVC autocal. You can use the X-Rite i1Display Pro meter with external software like calman/chromapure/HCFR to verify the cal.

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post #3081 of 4164 Old 03-30-2018, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by DLCPhoto View Post
I've read this before, and I have no doubt that you're correct.

Has anybody made any 'real-world' observations do see how much visible impact it really makes? I recently redid my Autocal, only with CMD off, and forgot to rerun with CMD on. To my eye, things look excellent, even when CMD is on, so wonder how big a difference this makes.

The next time I'll remember to run with it on and off, but I have wondered about this.
I'm a skeptical person by nature, and when in doubt always confirm things by non-subjective measurements.

After I ran autocal yesterday, I ran back-to-back measurements which showed a gamma of 2.2 with CMD Off, and 2.0 with CMD on. I then re-ran autocal with CMD on, after which both read 2.2. (IIRC from previous measurements, CMD Low and CMD High both share the same gamma).

Based on measurements, the difference made by gamma droop is shown in the attached graph showing x570's built-in ST.2084 gamma (solid line with gamma droop; dotted line after autocal).



As to "how much visible impact it really makes", that's subjective and you can run a simple test switching between gamma 2.0 and gamma 2.2 to assess the visual impact yourself. Somewhat ironically, gamma droop makes the picture look brighter, so you may even prefer it if your HDR looks too dim (as may happen with the built-in ST.2084 gamma).
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Last edited by Dominic Chan; 03-31-2018 at 05:54 AM.
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post #3082 of 4164 Old 03-31-2018, 05:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
So I've done lots of tests today and here are my results:

1) The reference color profile on our models is the same as DCI-P3-F, so there is no need to use one slot with DCI-P3F.
2) Instead of calculating the new BT2020 targets from the rec-709 offsets as per Chad's procedure, it is possible to significantly improve the results in BT2020 by calculating specific offsets for the BT2020 profile using P3 targets (we can't use BT-2020 targets because our PJs can't reach BT2020, they reach 65-70% of BT2020 at best).

So here is the procedure I followed:

- I updated Chad's spreadsheet with DCI-P3 targets instead of Rec-709 target. This means that you can calculate offsets with the filter on and at the targets that matter most for current content, i.e. P3.
- I updated Chad's workflow so that it defaults to DCI-P3 / D65 / Power Gamma 2.2
I need to calibrate color for BT2020, is this the procedure to follow or there are more recent developments? I would appreciate some advice.
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post #3083 of 4164 Old 03-31-2018, 08:12 AM
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Question on Spyder Placement for Calibration when decreasing aperture (-5, -10, -15)

When I begin calibration with manual aperture at 0, I have the Spyder meter positioned on my tripod so that the light meter icon is at the right side of the orange boundary as shown:



If I leave the meter in that same physical spot (as aperture 0) on my tripod, the Spyder icon moves further to the left as I stop down the aperture (-5, -10, -15) - probably as a result of less light hitting the sensor.

Should I move the tripod and sensor closer to the lens as I decrease the aperture so the Spyder icon is always on the right side of the orange boundary for each successive calibration?

My projector throw is only about 10' onto a 100" 16:9 screen. With aperture 0, my Spyder is only a few feet from the lens. With my theater chairs under the PJ, it's hard to keep moving the Spyder on a tripod progressively closer to the lens as the aperture is stepped down (0, -5, -10, -15). I recall reading something that the shadow of the meter should be in the center of my screen (which it roughly is) but also saying the meter should be close to the screen. If my meter is close to the screen, the Spyder icon ends up being near the far left side of the orange boundary rather than far right side.

Any other sensor placement tips for getting the best calibration?
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post #3084 of 4164 Old 03-31-2018, 09:16 AM
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Should I move the tripod and sensor closer to the lens as I decrease the aperture so the Spyder icon is always on the right side of the orange boundary for each successive calibration?
You can do that if you like, but there's no need or significant advantage. Maximizing the light hitting the sensor is important when calibrating gamma, as that involves measurements throughout the entire range (33 steps from 0% to 100%). When you calibrate for different apertures, you should be running the "colour only" calibration and there's plenty of light for that (compared with measuring gamma), even at -15 aperture.
Quote:
I recall reading something that the shadow of the meter should be in the center of my screen (which it roughly is) but also saying the meter should be close to the screen. If my meter is close to the screen, the Spyder icon ends up being near the far left side of the orange boundary rather than far right side.
There is no reason to keep the sensor close the the screen, except when you calibrate the environmental settings (which most people do not do).

Last edited by Dominic Chan; 03-31-2018 at 05:53 PM. Reason: Reword
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post #3085 of 4164 Old 03-31-2018, 09:20 AM
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Meter question answered

While I read all the instructions at the beginning of the thread and tried search, I found the answer in @GeorgeHolland reply a few pages back.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Spankenstein View Post

You will roughly center the shadow of the meter on your screen/projection surface, while also making the meter (as shown in the JVC software close to the RIGHT SIDE of the target box.




Further to this, you will also want to ensure you meter's sensor is set up parallel to the light path by making it's reflection (should be a bright, circular spot) sit directly above or below (not directly back into) the PJ lens.
For maximum accuracy, you will want to move your meter so that both these above situations exist BEFORE EVERY RUN.
@Manni01 - Is it possible to copy these photos and explanation to your post #2 that gives all the instructions for calibration? I think it would be very helpful to anyone doing the calibration the first time. One other thing to add to post #2 would be to remind users of the Spyder to remove the lens cap as there have been many posts about why people couldn't get their meter icon to show up in the orange box. The thread is now so huge that it's nice to have the most salient instructions and hint in your instructions. Thanks for all that you do for everyone!

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post #3086 of 4164 Old 03-31-2018, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
So I've done lots of tests today and here are my results:

1) The reference color profile on our models is the same as DCI-P3-F, so there is no need to use one slot with DCI-P3F.
2) Instead of calculating the new BT2020 targets from the rec-709 offsets as per Chad's procedure, it is possible to significantly improve the results in BT2020 by calculating specific offsets for the BT2020 profile using P3 targets (we can't use BT-2020 targets because our PJs can't reach BT2020, they reach 65-70% of BT2020 at best).

So here is the procedure I followed:

- I updated Chad's spreadsheet with DCI-P3 targets instead of Rec-709 target. This means that you can calculate offsets with the filter on and at the targets that matter most for current content, i.e. P3.
- I updated Chad's workflow so that it defaults to DCI-P3 / D65 / Power Gamma 2.2

Once you have followed Chad's procedure (or my slightly modified version) to calculate the rec-709 offsets and created the rec-709 custom profile to correct the meter errors at rec-709, load my DCI-P3 workflow, and use the gamut luminance layout to create the offsets for DCI-P3. To do this, do the following:

- In your HDR user preset, select Reference, 6500K, gamma normal on the projector in high lamp, iris fully open. This is important as this will give you the widest possible P3 gamut. Low lamp reaches a narrower gamut, so even if you use low lamp to calculate the offsets select high lamp, iris open. This will make sure that the errors are mostly meter errors and not too much native gamut limitations.
- Run a gamma 33 points+color autocal
- Open the DCI-P3 workflow and measure the current user mode (still on reference, 6500K, gamma normal, high lamp, iris fully open). This will give you the reference reading at various levels of luminance. Copy the RGBW xy just as you did for rec-709, and copy them in my updated DCI-P3 spreadsheet.
- Once all the RGBW data is copied, the speadsheet will give you your new targets for DCI-P3 and BT2020.
- If you want, create a custom profile for DCI-P3. There is little to no consumer content using this, so it's not necessary to do so. However, it is interesting to create one as you can then import and select the new DCI-P3 profile and compare the readings with the reference (non-custom-corrected) one. You should see significant improvements.
- Create a custom BT2020 profile using the new BT2020 targets. This is the profile you'll use for UHD Bluray HDR etc. It's the same as the one you created following Chad's procedure, except that it should give you improved results in BT2020.
- Open a BT2020 / D65 workflow, select the new BT2020 profile in the PJ, select P3 Sweeps (P3 within BT2020) with a normal gamma and check the results. You should notice a significant improvement.
- Select your custom gamma, set 100% white to D65 and measure your actual BT2020 calibration using the multiplier used in your selected Arve curve. Gamut and gamma/greyscale should be fairly close. I attach my final results.
- If you need to use a different setting than HDR High lamp / iris full open, run an autocal using reference/6500k/normal, then select the custom BT2020 profile, custom gamma and set WB to D65 at 100%. There is no need to recalculate a profile in low lamp, it would most likely lead to gamut shrinking.

I did more tests with my Spyder 5 / Spyder 4 and while the Spyder 5 is more accurate facing the screen, it's less accurate facing the projector, which leads to more (unnecessary) correction and a significant loss of brightness (118nits vs 132nits in low lamp HDR, 170nits vs 186nits in high lamp HDR, once fully calibrated to D65). So my last attempt at replacing my Spyder4 by a Spyder5 is over. The Spyder5 is going back as I would never use it given the brightness drop it causes.

Hope this helps. Not much time to follow up on this, but I'm sure those who are fluent in Autocal will pick up on this and will be able to help.

Following this new procedure, I get a color volume of around 98% of P3 in both low lamp and high lamp, so I might go on using low lamp unless I really need the extra pop. The fan noise and heat in high lamp is unpleasant, especially in summer!

Let us know if this improves your BT2020 results or not!
@Manni01 - Thanks for this great write up. I thought I mastered the autocal process a year ago and hadn't looked back before today. Now that I have, I see there are optimizations available, so it is back to the learning curve for me. I didn't realize CalMan 2017 added support for the Spyder 5 - that's really convenient. I haven't used CalMAN in a long time. Hopefully my license is still valid. My old laptop with it installed no longer works so I think I'll need to contact them to free up that license so I can reuse it.

Some questions on this and related items:

1. In the post above, you say that it "significantly improves" the results. Can you elaborate on the specific improvements, in both subjective and non-subjective terms, if known? I ask because I'd like to know if this is worth the learning curve in terms of what types of improvements I can expect to come from this.

2. Is there any possible downside(s) / tradeoffs whatsoever to using this updated approach?

3. Regarding this: "Select your custom gamma, set 100% white to D65 and measure your actual BT2020 calibration using the multiplier used in your selected Arve curve. "

3a. When you say set 100% white to D65, you mean using the RGB gains? I don't recall making this tweak at the end of any autocals. So this may be a new step, or I may be misunderstanding, or I've made this tweak normally and don't remember doing so. I thought the point of this was NOT making tweaks to RGB gains, but rather having the custom color profile adjust for this...

3b. When you say "and measure your actual BT2020 calibration the multiplier used in your selected Arve curve" - I don't recall what multiplier I used - or if I specified one versus having the software do it indirectly by setting other parms. How can I figure out what multiple it is? And how do I tell CalMAN what the multiplier is? I've never used that function in CalMAN.

4a. Recently you told me it may be a good idea to try redoing the autocal with BT2020NF. I said I didn't gain much brightness and you said to make sure I did a gamma+color and then a color autocal, otherwise I'm leaving a lot of brightness on the table. I can't recall, so I'll try that all over again. Just to confirm, you mean gamma+color for the main calibration and then +color for each of the sub-changes like iris, CMD etc yes? Or do you mean gamma+color with Reference and then +color with BT2020NF?

4b. You also mentioned I won’t lose any saturation for 90% of the content, especially in high lamp (which I use exclusively with BT2020 content of course), by using the BT2020NF filter. That sounds good on paper, but I'd like to understand better what I do lose for the remaining 10% of the content. Depending on that, it may still not be worth the tradeoff. I really enjoy the WCG and in certain scenes when watching certain movies I am in awe - just saw jaw dropping moments. As just a couple examples, there are scenes in Pan where guns shoot out a burst of color, like purples, oranges, deep reds etc (not to mention several scenic views in the movie that have some incredible looking colors which seem to be the WCG in full action). Another such example is in the first Kingsman movie - when the people's heads are exploding into busts of color - the colors are so vibrant and I've always assumed this was the benefit of the WCG. Would I be giving up such moments? If so it probably isn't worth the extra 10-15% (since at best that may put me around 50ish nits, still WAY short of 100 nits).

5. Regarding HLC:

5a. We exchanged a post a week or so ago about HLG. Arve chimed in about it. Based on what he said, can I create a custom HLG curve using his tools? Would I do this the exact same way I created my HDR10 custom curve, except perhaps I am starting with a different baseline curve? I may be switching to DirecTV soon, which has a decent amount of 4K content and several live upcoming sporting events now in 4K HDR.

5b. What happens if we use a HDR10 curve on HLG content? Does it look obviously bad, perhaps too dark or bright? Or is it something much more subtle?

6. Just to confirm, when setting bbo afterward I want 68 to be slightly flashing, yes?

Thanks!!
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post #3087 of 4164 Old 03-31-2018, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
You can do that if you like, but there's really no need or advantage. Maximizing the light hitting the sensor is important when calibrating gamma, as that involves measurements throughout the entire range (33 steps from 0% to 100%). When you calibrate for different apertures, you should be running the "colour only" calibration and there's plenty of light for that (compared with measuring gamma), even at -15 aperture.

There is no reason to keep the sensor close the the screen, except when you calibrate the environmental settings (which most people do not do).
It looks like you posted just as I found the previous post contradicts as it states to move the meter each time - contradictory to your post that there is no need to do that. I just want to make sure to do it right and, if there is really no need or advantage to moving the meter / tripod, that is certainly the best route to go.

I follow the procedure you mentioned measuring gamma first with the meter icon at the far right of the orange boundary for 0 aperture and then continue with the "colour only" calibration for each other setting (-5, -10, -15).

I wasn't aware about the reflecting the light from the meter above or below the lens. I'll setup and leave my tripod / Spyder in once place after the initial aperture 0 gamma calibration and continue on with the "colour only" for other apertures unless there is disagreement that this doesn't work as well.

Thanks for the help!

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post #3088 of 4164 Old 04-01-2018, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
You can do that if you like, but there's no need or significant advantage. Maximizing the light hitting the sensor is important when calibrating gamma, as that involves measurements throughout the entire range (33 steps from 0% to 100%). When you calibrate for different apertures, you should be running the "colour only" calibration and there's plenty of light for that (compared with measuring gamma), even at -15 aperture.



There is no reason to keep the sensor close the the screen, except when you calibrate the environmental settings (which most people do not do).


Manni’s instructions pointed out that gamma will change for different iris positions and he recommended running gamma calibrations at different iris positions. Has this changed?


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post #3089 of 4164 Old 04-01-2018, 01:36 PM
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Manni’s instructions pointed out that gamma will change for different iris positions and he recommended running gamma calibrations at different iris positions. Has this changed?
I don't think that's the case. Can you quote from his specific instructions that say that?
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post #3090 of 4164 Old 04-01-2018, 02:26 PM
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I don't think that's the case. Can you quote from his specific instructions that say that?
Excuse me for jumping in, but this has been on my mind as well. In Post #2 , which is likely superseded by subsequent posts:

Quote:
PHASE 2: Calibration of the various iris and CMD settings (total time less than 5mn per mode/setting)
Because the JVC Autocal only corrects one iris position range and CMD setting at a time, you need to either calibrate the settings you use, or be systematic and calibrate the whole range of AP value, with and without CMD if you use CMD.
0) Go to settings and select color. Gamma only needs to be run once, and it takes much longer when it's selected.
1) Go back to calibrate, and as we selected iris fully open (0) and no CMD, go down the range without CMD and back up the range with CMD. The effective ranges are slightly different but I use 0, -5, -10 and -15 as they are easy to remember and cover all the positions that have to be calibrated. If you don't do that, when you change the iris settings the greyscale will be wrong. Alternatively, you can calibrate only the iris setting you plan to use.
2) As iris open (0) / no CMD was done in PHASE 1, I then select the following settings for Lens AP:
-5 and calibrate (the process is much faster as only colour is selected, it's the gamma that takes the longer, especially if 33 steps/high was selected). Then I save.
-10 (calibrate) (save)
-15 (calibrate) (save)
3) I then switch to CMD On, calibrate and save (without changing Lens AP)
4) Then I go back up the lens AP settings, keeping CMD On:
-10 (calibrate) (save)
-5 (same)
0 (same).
As I understand it, this step-wise calibration for different aperture ranges is only for color calibration, not gamma.

If one uses Dynamic Iris, then to get the most accurate color and picture, then this implies one should do this color-only calibration for each aperture range.

The question then, is if one does this, do you need to reposition the sensor for each of those iris positions, since closing down the aperture will require you to move the sensor closer in order to keep it on the right side of the calibration software 'box.'

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