Originally Posted by erkq
I just bought a used Spyder4Pro for $94. After reading through this thread it seems my C6 may be a more reliable meter. Should I just forego the JVC autocal and use my CalMAN/C6/eeColor system to calibrate from scratch or should I do an autocal with the Spyder and compare the results to the C6 running with CalMan to see what shape the Spyder is in? I assume the C6 has less unit-to-unit variability that what I read about the Spyder.
The main advantage of the JVC Autocal software is to provide a near perfect baseline with flat gamma and perfectly tracking gamut without the need for an external correction. For example, you can't passthrough 3D blurays or 4K content with an eecolor, and 4K content can't be calibrated by a non-pro Radiance.
This is only true if your specific spyder unit is reasonably accurate, and yes there is no way to know unless you measure it against a reference or near reference spectro. The i1d3 is fairly accurate on LCOS, so it is more likely to be better than the spyder4, but calman or the eecolor won't help you to correct the gamma droop once it gets really bad, or to correct 3D blurays or 4K content.
i would say that an average Spyder4 will get you at least 80% there, a better consumer meter like e i1d3 (or a known good spyder4 or 5) will then take you 90% there, and a reference meter with a 3D LUT will bridge the last gap (in the right hands).
For me, it's not either/or.
I use the JVC Autocal and my known good spyder4 to get a near perfect baseline for all my non MadVR corrected sources, including 4K content like content from an nVidia shield or a Roku 4 which can't be corrected by a non-pro Radiance, I use my Discus trained to an i1pro2 in Calman Ultimate to set 100% white to D65, get a BT1886 calibration for all my sources in 2 clicks on the dark gamma control, and then I run a full 3D LUT for MadVR in Calman (the same as eecolor except it doesn't prevent the playback of 3D Blurays or 4K content) for critical content on my HTPC, mostly my blurays and dvds.
While the JVC Autocal can be used on its own, it's not as easy to use as a good software with a decent consumer meter like the i1d3. It's not newbie friendly.
I see it as a tool amongst many which allows me to get the most out of my JVC, doing away with external 3D LUT boxes like the eecolor or my Radiance mini which get in the way of 3D and/or 4K content.
It's up to you to decide whether using the eecolor or a Radiance with an i1d3 is a better solution or not.
If you have a fully correctable colour profile, a gamma droop which is not so bad that it's not correctable by the eecolor without causing banding or posterization, and if you have no need to play 3D Bluray or 4K content, then I'd say stick to the eecolor. It's easier, faster, and you don't have to learn the JVC Autocal and deal with a possibly less accurate meter.
If you experience any of the above, then use to JVC Autocal to get a better baseline. It doesn't mean you can't use your i1d3 and eecolor to get even better results with some of your sources.