JVC Calibration Software V6 For 2015 Models (X9000,X7000,X5000,RS400,RS500,RS600) - Page 82 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2431 of 4166 Old 11-01-2017, 07:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Spankenstein View Post
Now go get 'em, Tiger!
I used Cinema because I initially preferred it and also because I do not have a filter (RS400 here) so Natural does not have a reference profile on my projector.

For me, I think the calibration would look like this (I have a 2.35:1 screen so I have a few different Iris settings):

Cinema Picture Mode, Standard Color Profile, CMD off, Low Lamp, Iris 0: Gamma + Color
Cinema Picture Mode, Cinema Color Profile, CMD off, Low Lamp, Iris 0: Color Only
Cinema Picture Mode, Cinema Color Profile, CMD off, Low Lamp, Iris -6: Color Only
Cinema Picture Mode, Cinema Color Profile, CMD off, Low Lamp, Iris -12: Color Only
User 1 Picture Mode, Rec-709NF Color Profile, CMD off, Low Lamp, Iris 0: Color Only
User 1 Picture Mode, Rec-709NF Color Profile, CMD off, Low Lamp, Iris -6: Color Only
User 1 Picture Mode, Rec-709NF Color Profile, CMD off, Low Lamp, Iris -12: Color Only
User 2 Picture Mode, BT2020 Color Profile, CMD off, Low Lamp, Iris 0: Color Only

Cinema Picture Mode, Standard Color Profile, CMD off, High Lamp, Iris 0: Gamma + Color
Cinema Picture Mode, Cinema Color Profile, CMD off, High Lamp, Iris 0: Color Only
User 2 Picture Mode, BT2020 Color Profile, CMD off, High Lamp, Iris 0: Color Only

Also, not to complicate it, but pretty sure I'd get the same results if I stayed in a single user picture mode and just changed the color profile, right?
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post #2432 of 4166 Old 11-01-2017, 07:20 PM
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Gamma and colour temp is the hinge that all calibration pivots on. If you gamma and colour temp is wrong then your gamut coverage is going to be wrong.

Gamma must be done before anything, or if you have selected Gamma+ Colour in the autocal settings then its going to work also since it does gamma then and there anyway.

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post #2433 of 4166 Old 11-01-2017, 07:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Javs View Post
Gamma and colour temp is the hinge that all calibration pivots on. If you gamma and colour temp is wrong then your gamut coverage is going to be wrong.

Gamma must be done before anything, or if you have selected Gamma+ Colour in the autocal settings then its going to work also since it does gamma then and there anyway.
That makes sense. I've always left color temp at 6500K. The only question I have is if Standard or Cinema color profile was selected when I first ran it. Because I don't know, I'll do it again with standard selected for sure.
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post #2434 of 4166 Old 11-01-2017, 07:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post
I used Cinema because I initially preferred it and also because I do not have a filter (RS400 here) so Natural does not have a reference profile on my projector.

For me, I think the calibration would look like this (I have a 2.35:1 screen so I have a few different Iris settings):

Cinema Picture Mode, Standard Color Profile, CMD off, Low Lamp, Iris 0: Gamma + Color
Cinema Picture Mode, Cinema Color Profile, CMD off, Low Lamp, Iris 0: Color Only
Cinema Picture Mode, Cinema Color Profile, CMD off, Low Lamp, Iris -6: Color Only
Cinema Picture Mode, Cinema Color Profile, CMD off, Low Lamp, Iris -12: Color Only
User 1 Picture Mode, Rec-709NF Color Profile, CMD off, Low Lamp, Iris 0: Color Only
User 1 Picture Mode, Rec-709NF Color Profile, CMD off, Low Lamp, Iris -6: Color Only
User 1 Picture Mode, Rec-709NF Color Profile, CMD off, Low Lamp, Iris -12: Color Only
User 2 Picture Mode, BT2020 Color Profile, CMD off, Low Lamp, Iris 0: Color Only

Cinema Picture Mode, Standard Color Profile, CMD off, High Lamp, Iris 0: Gamma + Color
Cinema Picture Mode, Cinema Color Profile, CMD off, High Lamp, Iris 0: Color Only
User 2 Picture Mode, BT2020 Color Profile, CMD off, High Lamp, Iris 0: Color Only

Also, not to complicate it, but pretty sure I'd get the same results if I stayed in a single user picture mode and just changed the color profile, right?
Well, that is an important piece of information.

Go ahead and stick with your Cinema Picture Mode, just make sure that the Color Profile is Standard, Color Temp is 6500K, Gamma Normal, Low Lamp, Iris 0 and run your gamma+color. I refuse to argue or explain this point any further. If you don't want to do it, then good luck Charlie.
Forget Cinema as a color profile at this point as it would be considered a custom profile for these purposes. You net nothing by having the JVC calibrate Standard & Cinema & Rec709NF. They will all end up the same, but Manni's targets within his Rec709NF profile will have the most accurate results. Thinking that the Cinema Color Profile will offer an expanded colorspace without the use of a filter is a folly. Won't. Happen.

Then changing only your Iris settings, reposition your meter, and do a Color only autocal at -6 and another at -12. You use no CMD and you have no filter, so Phase 2 is now done.

Then revert Iris to 0 and only change to the Rec709NF Color Profile and perform a Color only autocal. Another changing the Iris to -6. Another after changing the Iris to -12.
Regarding the BT2020 Color Profile, not sure if yours came pre-loaded but it might be a better idea to import Manni's BT2020 (.zip file is at the bottom of post #1 ). Then with Iris back to 0, run a Color only autocal with the BT2020.
Low lamp mode is complete.

Switch to High lamp, return Color Profile to Standard, Color Temp still at 6500K, Gamma Normal, Iris 0. Run gamma+color.

If you wish to watch any Blu Ray/3D in High Lamp, then I would suggest doing a Color only autocal for Rec709NF Color Profile. Followed by a Color only BT2020 autocal. BOOM. Done.

Now you can go back and set up your User Modes so that they contain the settings you wish.

I wouldn't lead you astray. Just try it. I don't really care if you feel that steps are redundant. I'm here for assistance with calibration, not comprehension.

I'm excited for you to experience what I (and countless others) have.
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post #2435 of 4166 Old 11-01-2017, 08:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Spankenstein View Post
Well, that is an important piece of information.

Go ahead and stick with your Cinema Picture Mode, just make sure that the Color Profile is Standard, Color Temp is 6500K, Gamma Normal, Low Lamp, Iris 0 and run your gamma+color. I refuse to argue or explain this point any further. If you don't want to do it, then good luck Charlie.
Forget Cinema as a color profile at this point as it would be considered a custom profile for these purposes. You net nothing by having the JVC calibrate Standard & Cinema & Rec709NF. They will all end up the same, but Manni's targets within his Rec709NF profile will have the most accurate results. Thinking that the Cinema Color Profile will offer an expanded colorspace without the use of a filter is a folly. Won't. Happen.

Then changing only your Iris settings, reposition your meter, and do a Color only autocal at -6 and another at -12. You use no CMD and you have no filter, so Phase 2 is now done.

Then revert Iris to 0 and only change to the Rec709NF Color Profile and perform a Color only autocal. Another changing the Iris to -6. Another after changing the Iris to -12.
Regarding the BT2020 Color Profile, not sure if yours came pre-loaded but it might be a better idea to import Manni's BT2020 (.zip file is at the bottom of post #1 ). Then with Iris back to 0, run a Color only autocal with the BT2020.
Low lamp mode is complete.

Switch to High lamp, return Color Profile to Standard, Color Temp still at 6500K, Gamma Normal, Iris 0. Run gamma+color.

If you wish to watch any Blu Ray/3D in High Lamp, then I would suggest doing a Color only autocal for Rec709NF Color Profile. Followed by a Color only BT2020 autocal. BOOM. Done.

Now you can go back and set up your User Modes so that they contain the settings you wish.

I wouldn't lead you astray. Just try it. I don't really care if you feel that steps are redundant. I'm here for assistance with calibration, not comprehension.

I'm excited for you to experience what I (and countless others) have.
Okay, that all sounds good, I'm actually just about to start it right now. I see above you say to "reposition your meter". I did not know I had to change my meter location during this process. Did I miss something? I've got the meter dead center of the projected image with the reflection spot about 1" below the projector lens ring (the reflection on the back wall from the white light from the projector reflecting off the meter surface). The calibration software shows the meter position exactly center in the yellow box.
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post #2436 of 4166 Old 11-01-2017, 08:34 PM
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Actually I am pretty sure you need to do iris 0/4/8/12 as there appears to me to be four different brackets for the colour temp in relation to iris positions.

If you go 0/6/12 you are skipping one, From 8-11.

0/4/8/12 seems to be the first iris position of each bracket. At least that's what I could see with an OOTB fresh unit, once I hit those exact steps I noticed a colour temp change each time.
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post #2437 of 4166 Old 11-02-2017, 12:28 AM
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thank you all. makes sense now to me what to do next.
also i downloaded Manni gamma and DV curves also, it is needed to somehow calibrate with them?
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post #2438 of 4166 Old 11-02-2017, 12:29 AM
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and can anyone explain what "filter" do you all mean? i didnt get yet what is it
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post #2439 of 4166 Old 11-02-2017, 02:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post
Okay, that all sounds good, I'm actually just about to start it right now. I see above you say to "reposition your meter". I did not know I had to change my meter location during this process. Did I miss something? I've got the meter dead center of the projected image with the reflection spot about 1" below the projector lens ring (the reflection on the back wall from the white light from the projector reflecting off the meter surface). The calibration software shows the meter position exactly center in the yellow box.
I’m also confused on the reposition your meter piece...did we get an answer?

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post #2440 of 4166 Old 11-02-2017, 04:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by asharma View Post
I’m also confused on the reposition your meter piece...did we get an answer?
The meter needs to be positioned every time you change the iris/lamp mode setting so that it appears to the right - not the centre - of the aiming box on screen (unless this causes issues, as it seems to do for some, in which case back up a little). This is to maximize peak brightness during the readings so that the lower end of gamma isn't crushed. As explained many times, you need to look at the log while the autocal is going on. If you have a reading of zero for any of the steps (especially in the low end), for any color, you're not getting a reading at that level. This means your meter isn't getting enough light to read that step, so you have to bring it closer to the lens (without saturating the reading in the top end).
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post #2441 of 4166 Old 11-02-2017, 04:57 AM
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wow. i positioning it at screen instead (left side of box in autocal)
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post #2442 of 4166 Old 11-02-2017, 06:26 AM
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Originally Posted by MrDiegoRU-SPB View Post
thank you all. makes sense now to me what to do next.
also i downloaded Manni gamma and DV curves also, it is needed to somehow calibrate with them?
No, assuming you do not want to use the Arve tool, there is no calibration at this point. That is, you have already done the calibration with the Autocal tool and anything else.

THEN you use one of the Manni curves (I think the so called "Dolby Cinema" curve is probably the most useful for most folks) but that's it.

---

If you were to use the Arve tool to create your own HDR curve, then there is a process with the Arve tool to "calibrate" (dial in by eye using test patters) certain parameters of a custom curve. I have a link in my signature to a method for doing this.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MrDiegoRU-SPB View Post
and can anyone explain what "filter" do you all mean? i didnt get yet what is it
Inside the projector, when you select the JVC rec2020 color profile/mode, there is an internal filter that moves into place inside the projector, that helps the projector cover the complete P3 region within rec2020.
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post #2443 of 4166 Old 11-02-2017, 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by nathan_h View Post
No, assuming you do not want to use the Arve tool, there is no calibration at this point. That is, you have already done the calibration with the Autocal tool and anything else.

Inside the projector, when you select the JVC rec2020 color profile/mode, there is an internal filter that moves into place inside the projector, that helps the projector cover the complete P3 region within rec2020.
Ah.. ok, so i make an few calibrations in normal gamma\color profile with cmd on/off and some apertures 0-4-8-12, both lamp power modes, then install color profiles and custom curves,
create a user mode with chosen cp and gamma and use happily the PJ ?)
thats it?
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post #2444 of 4166 Old 11-02-2017, 06:56 AM
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I am trying to keep a good attitude, but these questions have all been answered and explained within the first few posts of this thread.


It is summed up very well (and with pretty pictures ) in the Cine4Home review of the autocal software (not surprisingly, linked in the first post of this thread). But since it presents such a challenge for folks to do any manner of detailed research on their own, I'll provide the Cliff's Notes version.


You will roughly center the shadow of the meter on your screen/projection surface, while also making the meter (as shown in the JVC software close to the RIGHT SIDE of the target box.






Further to this, you will also want to ensure you meter's sensor is set up parallel to the light path by making it's reflection (should be a bright, circular spot) sit directly above or below (not directly back into) the PJ lens.
For maximum accuracy, you will want to move your meter so that both these above situations exist BEFORE EVERY RUN.


Many times folks are making the adjustments via the Picure Mode Settings screen, which immediately follows the above screen and precedes the below screen.

I think this is a poor idea because most changes that are made would have an impact on brightness (in some form or another) and would thus would change the location of the meter within the target box (as shown above). Sure there is always the option to use the "back" arrow to verify and readjust, but with the impatience that abounds, I'm not sure anyone would be that vigilant.



My preference is to set these via the PJ menu PRIOR to starting a run:




To ensure you are not missing any crucial components of the calibration run, be sure to look at the data that is presented at the beginning of the process:
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	JVC autocal.jpg
Views:	103
Size:	63.2 KB
ID:	2309232  
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Last edited by Dr. Spankenstein; 11-02-2017 at 07:45 AM.
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post #2445 of 4166 Old 11-02-2017, 06:57 AM
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I'm not an expert, but I think that is MOSTLY right. I apologize if I am confusing things and I am happy to be corrected by another member of the forum. I have't followed all your history. So this may be irrelevant.


I would think you would install the color profiles first, just to be safe.

And I think when calibrating you want to calibrate gamma, profile, and temperature (but I have read about people adjusting temperature after the autocal, as well). And since the when using the REC2020 profile there is a color filter triggered/used inside the projector automatically, I think you also need to calibrate for color temp for that, as well.
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post #2446 of 4166 Old 11-02-2017, 07:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathan_h View Post
I would think you would install the color profiles first, just to be safe.

Thank you. I have attempted to clarify that above.

Quote:
And I think when calibrating you want to calibrate gamma, profile, and temperature (but I have read about people adjusting temperature after the autocal, as well).

I had never hear of AFTER. There were reports that if you chose to calibrate with another Temp target, it might be possible to gain some brightness. But you'd have to be careful and check the results. Most lamp-based projectors run out of RED first.


Quote:
And since the when using the REC2020 profile there is a color filter triggered/used inside the projector automatically, I think you also need to calibrate for color temp for that, as well.

Color Temp or D65 target should always have a goal of 6500k/D65 even for BT2020. The filter (if applicable for your PJ) will be activated when you utilize the Reference Color Profile in your Phase 1 or Phase 2 of your autocal. Then you go back and do a Color only autocal with the BT2020 Color Profile in place.
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post #2447 of 4166 Old 11-02-2017, 07:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Spankenstein View Post



I am trying to keep a good attitude, but these questions have all been answered and explained within the first few posts of this thread.
For various reasons I don't post regularly in the thread anymore, but my policy is to not reply to a question when the answer is already in the first posts or in the links listed in the first post.

Some are lucky to have good souls like you willing to restate/rephrase what has already been explained in detail...

Your post is great though, especially the picture of the meter position, so I'll link it to the first post.
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post #2448 of 4166 Old 11-02-2017, 08:21 AM
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To be fair, all anybody really wants is a step-by-step DIY with every single step from A-to-Z perfectly explained all in a single post. That is very hard to find on this forum and is something I attempted to provide (which now needs to be revised).

If this thread contained a single post complete step-by-step walk-through that was 100% accurate from out of the box to custom profiles installed and fully calibrated this thread would be about two posts long with a bunch of people saying thank you after it.

The reason so many questions get asked is because everybody is working with a different level of understanding because what I said above does not exist. The learning curve is steep if you're a blank slate. When replying with previous experience knowledge, steps get unintentionally skipped.
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post #2449 of 4166 Old 11-02-2017, 08:36 AM
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Is that all?


The fundamental misunderstanding is that ANY of this is "owed" to anyone. In fact, the onus is on the individual who has made the decision to undertake this themselves versus hiring a competent calibrator (also mentioned in the first post). There is a reason they get paid what they do.


All that has been contributed by JVC, Manni, Arve, stanger, Javs, ChadB (the list goes on) has been a godsend. But none of it is plug-and-play.
Knowledge is out there and it is completely unfair to fault the individuals who have blazed the path. Shame on those who's incredulous natures have squelched the spark of collaborative learning.
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post #2450 of 4166 Old 11-02-2017, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Dr. Spankenstein View Post
Is that all?


The fundamental misunderstanding is that ANY of this is "owed" to anyone. In fact, the onus is on the individual who has made the decision to undertake this themselves versus hiring a competent calibrator (also mentioned in the first post). There is a reason they get paid what they do.


All that has been contributed by JVC, Manni, Arve, stanger, Javs, ChadB (the list goes on) has been a godsend. But none of it is plug-and-play.
Knowledge is out there and it is completely unfair to fault the individuals who have blazed the path. Shame on those who's incredulous natures have squelched the spark of collaborative learning.
I agree. I've done my best to contribute, as evidenced by my DIY guides I've created.
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post #2451 of 4166 Old 11-02-2017, 09:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Spankenstein View Post
Is that all?


The fundamental misunderstanding is that ANY of this is "owed" to anyone. In fact, the onus is on the individual who has made the decision to undertake this themselves versus hiring a competent calibrator (also mentioned in the first post). There is a reason they get paid what they do.


All that has been contributed by JVC, Manni, Arve, stanger, Javs, ChadB (the list goes on) has been a godsend. But none of it is plug-and-play.
Knowledge is out there and it is completely unfair to fault the individuals who have blazed the path. Shame on those who's incredulous natures have squelched the spark of collaborative learning.
And we greatly appreciate their efforts....yet, you and some of them continue to post little updates/reiterations where as Dreamliner is simply saying if there was a soup-to-nuts step by step you wouldn't have to do that additional burden.

There's a lot of steps and permutations here of steps, and the only way to figure out how to apply them is to read a series of other posts detailing fractions of all those permutations (albeit, all of these posts are in one place on the first post of the thread).

For example, it's no where even noted for owners of scoep screens if they need to run a separate subset of these calibrations in the other zoom mode. I use 2.35 zoom for the majority of my watched content, yet I do the calibration wholly in 16:9 mode. I know the answers now, but only through asking questions and getting replies from people like yourself.

SO again, effort greatly appreciated on the "free ride" to the mall, but we were dropped of about 2 blocks away from it
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post #2452 of 4166 Old 11-02-2017, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post
To be fair, all anybody really wants is a step-by-step DIY with every single step from A-to-Z perfectly explained all in a single post.
I'm pretty sure that's post 2.
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post #2453 of 4166 Old 11-02-2017, 09:51 PM
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Javs was helping me out with my X9500. Thanks, man! I have not installed Arve's tool yet. I'm sure I could figure it out but too little patience right now.


I am mainly using Manni's DV Emulation Curve which is really excellent. The custom curve does fix the colour issues with the bt2020 profile in the x9500 as Javs suggested so no need for auto-calibration for now, can wait until it's run in as it's a new unit. Yay!


The DV emulation curve is great for night time and most movies. Would you by any chance have a somewhat brighter curve in a low-res file that I could use for xbox one HDR gaming, especially during the day where there's a bit of light? I would be happy with one that hard clips at 1000nits as I doubt xbox games are graded for a lot higher at this point? I tried to download some of the ones at the beginning of the thread but the links are dead ... thanks, guys!
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post #2454 of 4166 Old 11-02-2017, 11:00 PM
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I ran through calibration again and the end result is about the same as what I had. I think it perhaps looks a bit better (which is always a plus) but its pretty close to the AutoCal calibrated setup I had before. After the calibration today, I tried several HDR titles and my thoughts remain unchanged, I still feel I have pleasing and unpleasing titles. Usually unpleasing means too dark over all, dark face shadows at times and overly bright skies or similar elements (fundamental irregularities that simply do not exist on the regular Blu-ray). I don't want to get into it as I've already beaten it to death in the RS500/600 thread (feel free to search). Suffice it to say, I prefer the Blu-ray over the 4K disc for several titles, and still do. I'm using Manni's BT2020 Color Profile, Manni's 140-1100-4000 V2, DV Cinema Emulation and a custom Arve Curve. (Yes they are set to import, yes I know to check them when I play a HDR disc.)

Going into this again the only real unknown I had was whether I was in Cinema or Standard color profile for the initial gamma + color I did a few months ago, that was the primary reason I did the calibration again today. Also previously, I had the sensor further away from the projector (about 11 feet last time, about 8 feet this time). I also moved the sensor closer to the projector for the lower iris levels. Keeping the sensor near the right side, but still inside, the yellow box.

I do know now the calibration did not skip Gamma last time. The gamma step takes a very long time and is a pretty obvious time and test colors difference between Gamma + Color and Color Only. Also, perhaps more importantly, after doing the initial Gamma + Color this time, the blue line was not drooping down like it did the first time, it was aligned with the white line.

Doing the Iris at 0/4/8/12 is definitely superior to my previous 0/6/12 as I do not see the colors shifting as I slide down as I did before. -Thanks for the tip on that, Javs.

Thanks for the tips Spankenstein, its definitely a slight improvement on my previous calibration and I will update my DIY to reflect the changes.

As always, thanks to Manni for the profiles, curves and knowledge sharing.

For those curious, this is what I did:
Spoiler!


Just to confirm, I could have stayed in a User Picture mode and simply selected the different color profiles for this, right? (Standard, 709, BT2020, etc)?
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post #2455 of 4166 Old 11-03-2017, 09:26 AM
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I'm running all of my calibrations again with the sensor at the correct position on the right side, and for each iris setting. I'm finding that adjusting the angle of the sensor is much easier to dial in the exact sensor position in the orange box. Doing this, I don't need to move the tripod position all that much, except for maybe wide open vs -12 or -15. It takes very little angle difference to move the sensor in the orange box. I simply twist the handle of the tripod and move it ever so slightly.

Is this frowned upon? I don't think I've seen this mentioned in this thread (slight changes in the angle I mean).

Thanks!

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post #2456 of 4166 Old 11-03-2017, 11:10 AM
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Sounds like you have gone through most of the proper steps. A couple points of note:


Quote:
I also moved the sensor closer to the projector for the lower iris levels. Keeping the sensor near the right side, but still inside, the yellow box.
This is a great step, but there is also the aiming of the reflected spot (off the meter) to land slightly above/below the PJ lens. It appears to influence color accuracy most.


Quote:
I do know now the calibration did not skip Gamma last time. The gamma step takes a very long time and is a pretty obvious time and test colors difference between Gamma + Color and Color Only. Also, perhaps more importantly, after doing the initial Gamma + Color this time, the blue line was not drooping down like it did the first time, it was aligned with the white line.
Skipped may have been a poor choice of words, if I expressed it this way. It will still go through the arduous process of a 33-step for each color, but the JVC software will ignore the data (ie. meaning gamma won't be calibrated at all in this crucial step). You can verify if the JVC software is going to ignore the data by the presence of the "-" after that component of the image settings. The example I have attached shows that both the Gamma and Color Temp were ignored. The graphs presented at the end ARE NOT an indicator as to whether the software calibrated gamma. It will report what was read by the meter/software regardless. You can only be sure if you watch the software at the very beginning of the run to verify. If there are any dashes present at the beginning of a gama+color run, you are dead in the water.


Quote:
Just to confirm, I could have stayed in a User Picture mode and simply selected the different color profiles for this, right? (Standard, 709, BT2020, etc)?
That is correct. The reason it is preferable to stay in one Picture mode is that there are often little settings that you forget about (MPC settings, CMD settings, Clear Black settings) that, if left on will influence the calibration. Stick with one (everything zeroed) and you know you're done.


Quote:
I ran through calibration again and the end result is about the same as what I had. I think it perhaps looks a bit better (which is always a plus) but its pretty close to the AutoCal calibrated setup I had before. After the calibration today, I tried several HDR titles and my thoughts remain unchanged, I still feel I have pleasing and unpleasing titles. Usually unpleasing means too dark over all, dark face shadows at times and overly bright skies or similar elements (fundamental irregularities that simply do not exist on the regular Blu-ray).
This is sad to hear. Just so that we've exhausted all options, is it understood that this autocal alone does not get you 100% done? You must then confirm/adjust that your Brightness/Contrast settings are set properly (autocal gave me some black crush too) and adjust greyscale white balance (as most of these Spyder 5 meters are not very accurate in regards to color).
No odd, old settings in the player that could be influencing the end image?


I'm really rooting for you as I was EXACTLY where you were not all that long ago. I had all but fully resigned to, what is hindsight now, was a very poor image. My only prior experience with a projector was an antiquated Sony VW-60 (which I struggled for YEARS to get a decent image).
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post #2457 of 4166 Old 11-03-2017, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TKNice View Post
I'm running all of my calibrations again with the sensor at the correct position on the right side, and for each iris setting. I'm finding that adjusting the angle of the sensor is much easier to dial in the exact sensor position in the orange box. Doing this, I don't need to move the tripod position all that much, except for maybe wide open vs -12 or -15. It takes very little angle difference to move the sensor in the orange box. I simply twist the handle of the tripod and move it ever so slightly.

Is this frowned upon? I don't think I've seen this mentioned in this thread (slight changes in the angle I mean).

Thanks!
While it is a good tool to have in the toolbox, the endgame is to have the reflection that bounces off the meter sensor to be aimed to a location either directly above/below the projector lens.


You want to simultaneously: Center the shadow of the meter close to the center of the screen (this would be an easy indicator of you meter being directly in the light path of the PJ, aim the reflection off the meter directly above/below the PJ lens (so that the meter's sensor is parallel to the light path - improves color accuracy and maximizes light registered by meter), position the meter to the right side of the target box.


I'm going to have to snap a picture of this as it appears to be an often missed concept.
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post #2458 of 4166 Old 11-03-2017, 11:53 AM
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Thanks so much Dr. Spankenstein for your help with this. I am finding in my setup that it's a challenge to position the tripod perfectly so the angle trick was working well. I will look at reflecting the spot next. I read that in your reply (and possible before) but didn't understand what you meant until now.

I have a new problem that I just encountered while calibrating that is pretty disconcerting. I was going through the picture modes to calibrate (just read to stay in the same mode) and when I clicked from one picture mode to the next, the projector started making strange buzzing at different frequencies. I had to turn off the projector, let it cool, and turn it back on. Once up, it was fine but the same thing happened on the next pass. Have you seen this before? What could be causing it and how likely is it I may have damaged something? I'm about to turn it back on in a minute and see if playing normal content and regular use seems fine.

Here is a link so hopefully you can hear the noises:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/j464byis93...%20PM.mov?dl=0

EDIT: It appears to be a problem with the iris. When I use the remote to change the settings from open down to -15, it begins making the sound beginning at -2 and until -14. At -1 or 0 and -14 or -15, it stops. The iris does appear to be changing even with the sound but if left on any of these settings, the sound doesn't stop.

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Last edited by TKNice; 11-03-2017 at 12:19 PM.
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post #2459 of 4166 Old 11-03-2017, 11:56 AM - Thread Starter
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@Dr. Spankenstein , you have the patience of an angel, keep up the good work
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post #2460 of 4166 Old 11-03-2017, 11:56 AM - Thread Starter
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@Dr. Spankenstein , you have the patience of an angel, keep up the good work

JVC Autocal Software V11 Calibration for 2019 Models (Google)
Batch Utility V4.02 May 16 2019 to automate measurements files for madVR with support for BD Folders
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