JVC Calibration Software V6 For 2015 Models (X9000,X7000,X5000,RS400,RS500,RS600) - Page 89 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2641 of 4239 Old 01-06-2018, 06:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krumme View Post
Saw the cine4home review of the first jvc auto cal. They didnt recommend to use a spyder on a new pj.
There's no other choice than the Spyder for the JVC autocal.
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post #2642 of 4239 Old 01-06-2018, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by krumme View Post
I have a 5500 and think red is a bit to much and perhaps green too and was wondering to go the spyder 5 way if its precise enough.
What about using your eyes? Lol. I think for colors it should be doable. Gamma curves less so.

Try the 7000k or 7500k color presets.

Also, if your lamp is new, they sometimes have a bit more red until they age a few hundred hrs. Or at least that was how it used to be years ago...
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post #2643 of 4239 Old 01-06-2018, 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by fleaman View Post
There's no other choice than the Spyder for the JVC autocal.
For 2015, the subject of this thread, that is true. I think that changes in later model years.
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post #2644 of 4239 Old 01-06-2018, 11:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krumme View Post
Saw the cine4home review of the first jvc auto cal. They didnt recommend to use a spyder on a new pj.
With the current software rev and spyder 5 is the consensus still the same?

I have a 5500 and think red is a bit to much and perhaps green too and was wondering to go the spyder 5 way if its precise enough.
What about using your eyes? Lol. I think for colors it should be doable. Gamma curves less so.

Had an xrite pro a few years back and it was fine but will not go full in again due to time.
A good Spyder is good enough but it’s unlikely your eyes can judge the results well.

So, after running autocal with the Spyder: Bust out the xrite and something like Calman or HCFR to fine tune the results — and you will be in great shape.

Some people skip the fine tuning step and are fine with the autocal results.
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post #2645 of 4239 Old 01-07-2018, 03:15 AM
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Originally Posted by strawberry View Post
My understanding is that with a change to any of the following:

- Lamp high/low
- Filter on/off
- CMD on/off
- Iris (changes of more than a few clicks either way)

You should probably rerun your autocal. In your case, you might be able to correct gamma/grayscale fine using Calman/HCFR with the internal controls. Really depends on how far off they are.
OK, so coming back to my question, it means that the calibration done with CMD off is still applied with CMD on (if the gamma and color profile is the same) but maybe suboptimal.
It is still not clear to me how the calibration is stored and applied. If I reverse the question, so I calibrate CMD on AND CMD off, those two calibration will be kept separated, or?
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post #2646 of 4239 Old 01-07-2018, 05:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Menion View Post
OK, so coming back to my question, it means that the calibration done with CMD off is still applied with CMD on (if the gamma and color profile is the same) but maybe suboptimal.
It is still not clear to me how the calibration is stored and applied. If I reverse the question, so I calibrate CMD on AND CMD off, those two calibration will be kept separated, or?
Those 4 factors mentioned by strawberry all affect calibration. I'm not sure where you draw the line between "invalid" and "suboptimal". The calibration results are stored separately, that's why in a complete set of autocal you would change those factors one at a time, and do a save.

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post #2647 of 4239 Old 01-07-2018, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
Completely forgot about that. Both would be incorrect, so I need to look into this (not sure when I'll be able to). You can't just replace color profile after the autocal and expect accurate results. I would expect the results to be better using a colour profile without a filter before applying BT2020-NF, but you need to take measurements after the autocal to find which would give best results.
Hi Manni...would I be totally whacked to import the BT2020NF profile and not rerun Autocal but continue to use my custom Arve curve, perhaps just adjusting black levels? Just trying to increase my brightness w/o dropping $3k on an increased gain screen...thanks

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post #2648 of 4239 Old 01-07-2018, 09:16 AM
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Your gray scale and color space will be a bit whacked, as will your gamma, I suspect.
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post #2649 of 4239 Old 01-07-2018, 09:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by asharma View Post
Hi Manni...would I be totally whacked to import the BT2020NF profile and not rerun Autocal but continue to use my custom Arve curve, perhaps just adjusting black levels? Just trying to increase my brightness w/o dropping $3k on an increased gain screen...thanks
As I said, it won't be correct. I can't say how incorrect it will be or which profile is better to use during the autocal until I run measurements.

And I have no idea when I'll be able to do so.

It would be madness to get a new screen just for that reason. First because it would be much cheaper to hire a competent calibrator to get a good calibration with the brightness you have, which is not ideal but is enough to get very good results in HDR using BT2020 and a custom curve, and two because the difference is only 10-15%. It's better than nothing, but it's not enough to give you what a screen with a higher gain would give you if that's really what you need. Problem is, such a screen will also raise your black levels.

So be patient, I'll investigate this when I have the time, but asking about it won't make it happen faster.

In the meantime, there is no harm in trying BT-2020NF without running an autocal. If it's accurate enough to make the moderate increase in brightness worth the loss in accuracy, then just use it like that.
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post #2650 of 4239 Old 01-07-2018, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
As I said, it won't be correct. I can't say how incorrect it will be or which profile is better to use during the autocal until I run measurements.

And I have no idea when I'll be able to do so.

It would be madness to get a new screen just for that reason. First because it would be much cheaper to hire a competent calibrator to get a good calibration with the brightness you have, which is not ideal but is enough to get very good results in HDR using BT2020 and a custom curve, and two because the difference is only 10-15%. It's better than nothing, but it's not enough to give you what a screen with a higher gain would give you if that's really what you need. Problem is, such a screen will also raise your black levels.

So be patient, I'll investigate this when I have the time, but asking about it won't make it happen faster.


In the meantime, there is no harm in trying BT-2020NF without running an autocal. If it's accurate enough to make the moderate increase in brightness worth the loss in accuracy, then just use it like that.
Ok, imported BT2020NF...chapter 13 BVS, where that monster thing is starting to light up, with fire in its veins, BT2020 is much more accurately orangey fire in the veins where as bt2020 no filter is more clipped white fire in the veins...all using the same custom curve...would u recommend trying to tweak my curve or do u feel this may be more fundamental to the NF color profile and Autocal?

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post #2651 of 4239 Old 01-07-2018, 12:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by asharma View Post
Ok, imported BT2020NF...chapter 13 BVS, where that monster thing is starting to light up, with fire in its veins, BT2020 is much more accurately orangey fire in the veins where as bt2020 no filter is more clipped white fire in the veins...all using the same custom curve...would u recommend trying to tweak my curve or do u feel this may be more fundamental to the NF color profile and Autocal?
I'm not recommending anything until I have the time to measure and investigate. So please let it go or measure yourself. I don't know when I'll have the time to look into this. As soon as I do, I'll post here.
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post #2652 of 4239 Old 01-07-2018, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
I'm not recommending anything until I have the time to measure and investigate. So please let it go or measure yourself. I don't know when I'll have the time to look into this. As soon as I do, I'll post here.
Thanks, I’ll let it go...using bt2020 for now...thanks again

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post #2653 of 4239 Old 01-08-2018, 09:47 AM
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Custom Curves Quick DIY

This guide encompasses every step you need to load custom curves onto your projector and get rocking with 4K HDR. All of this is reversible and none of it is permanent, so no worries. A custom curve will significantly increase the quality of your HDR content and it only takes about 30 minutes to follow the instructions below for the first time.

In step 3 I link to a couple different curves on this forum to download. Feel free to choose your own if you find one, there is no harm in trying different curves, the projector has 3 slots for custom curves and you can overwrite them as many times as you want. You can also make your own but that process is a bit different. More information here. If you are fresh to 4K now is the time to replace your HDMI cables or you will probably have problems, more information here. I have links to posts in my sig for a reason, look at them.

This is the quick and dirty guide and will get you what you want, quickly:

1) This is the JVC Calibration Software you want to import premade gamma curves, you can also use it later to do color calibration if you want. Install this software on a PC connected to the same network as your projector. Do this first. Connect your projector to your network, check the IP address of your projector in the settings menu and enter it into the settings screen (the gear) on the software and click 'check' to verify connection. (The PDF in step 4 explains this in more detail if you need it)

2) Download the BT2020 color profile from here. Its under step 2. (You might already have this loaded on your projector)

3) Download and try some curves from this post (download via his Dropbox link) (Thanks Javs) or this post (Thanks Manni) or this post (Thanks Dominic). Full credit to Javs, Manni and Dominic on these curves, I did not make them, they did. (Or feel free to use any other curve you find on the forum)

4) Use these Import Procedure directions to load the BT2020 profile you downloaded in step 2. (If you have trouble connecting your PC to your projector, follow these steps).

5) Use the same process as step 4 to load the custom gamma curve, but you select 'gamma' from the pull-down menu on the import/export screen instead of 'color profile'. If you really want brightness, I'd start with Javs "Javs 1200nit V3" gamma curve inside the "Autocal Versions" folder in his dropbox link and/or Manni's "Manni-HDR10-BC1K" gamma curve in his zip folder into and/or "Gamma3_30_Adjusted" into Custom 3 from Dominic. (Or feel free to use any other curve you find on the forum and load them to whichever custom slot you choose)

3/4/5 alternate) You can also load a curve or two using the ARVE tool and JAVS curves. This process is a bit more complicated but his recent V3 curves are very good. Curves and steps here. Javs has also provided the regular curves to import in step 4 but the Arve tool method will technically yield a slightly better result if you like his curves. (I personally saw no difference between the loaded curve and this method but it is ‘technically’ bettter).

6) Okay all done on the PC for now. Go to your projector and stick in a 4K disc get it loaded up so the movie is playing.

7) Now we're going to set up your picture settings for HDR movies on your projector. Press a User Mode on the remote (I have a few different profiles set up so my User 1 is for HD, User 2 is for HDR and User 3 is for 3D). Choose and press a user mode that makes sense to you, then go into the projector Picture Adjust Menu and change the color profile to BT.2020. Change Gamma to Custom 1 (or where you loaded the custom gamma from step 5), then right below that in the gamma screen, change correction value to Import. (Very important to select Import, otherwise it won't load the profile you imported in step 5). I'd also suggest turning on High Lamp, CMD Off, Auto Iris off, Iris Manual on 0 and Clear Black Low. (Iris, CMD & Clear Black is a preference though).

8) Going forward, once you put in a 4K movie, all you need to do is choose that user mode and it will recall all the settings from step 7. Then once the movie is actually playing, you just need to hit the gamma button to change from Gamma D to Custom 1 (the projector will always default to Gamma D). You can also rename the Picture Mode from "User 1, 2 or 3" to "HDR" or something to make it easier for you.

That's it. Basically, in recap, load in the BT2020 and custom gamma profile with the software, choose a user mode on the remote and select the BT2020 and custom gamma profiles.

All this will take about 20-30 minutes the first time. Its pretty quick. You can try different gamma curves in slot 2 & 3 also and overwrite them all as you see fit. Once you get the hang of it you will only spend like 2 minutes loading a gamma profile. REMEMBER, be CERTAIN the gamma correction value is set to IMPORT on the projector, otherwise it's just gamma normal.


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post #2654 of 4239 Old 01-08-2018, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by nathan_h View Post
For 2015, the subject of this thread, that is true. I think that changes in later model years.
Is spyder5 still the only option for RS540?
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post #2655 of 4239 Old 01-09-2018, 07:26 AM
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Depends on which version of Autocal you use. Good news is that the same page where you download Autocal will also have info about which meters are compatible.
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post #2656 of 4239 Old 01-09-2018, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by JJ7 View Post
Is spyder5 still the only option for RS540?
RS540 uses v10 software which supports Spyder5 and i1Pro2.
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post #2657 of 4239 Old 01-09-2018, 08:54 AM
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Clarifying question...for basic (non expert lol) testing of black clipping using Arve tool, bbo function and the black clipping track from Ryan Masciola, I should set bbo so that line 77 is perfectly black and faintly see 81? I know there are more technical discussions going on but is this a good start?
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post #2658 of 4239 Old 01-09-2018, 09:27 AM
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Yes, that is the best practice/most common recommendation, IIRC, with the Arve tool.
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post #2659 of 4239 Old 01-09-2018, 09:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by tswire View Post
Clarifying question...for basic (non expert lol) testing of black clipping using Arve tool, bbo function and the black clipping track from Ryan Masciola, I should set bbo so that line 77 is perfectly black and faintly see 81? I know there are more technical discussions going on but is this a good start?
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Originally Posted by nathan_h View Post
Yes, that is the best practice/most common recommendation, IIRC, with the Arve tool.
That might change though as we're doing tests at the moment to figure out 1) if there are only a couple of 0.005nits titles with raised blacks (Lucy and Oblivion led us to think it was the majority, but in fact it might just be a few poorly mastered early masters) and 2) if clipping black at 77 instead of 64 leads to any significant black crush or not.

We're discussing this in the main 2015 models thread, so I suggest anyone interested follows that.

Otherwise, the recommendation is the same as always: if you want to do it correctly, black is 64 and you resolve down to 68 (legal curve). If you want avoid raised black in some titles (not sure how many, it might be just a couple, so far less than initially expected), then black at 77 and resolve down to 81 (illegal curve), knowing that it might/will cost you a minor loss in shadow details (similar to clipping level 17 in HD).

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post #2660 of 4239 Old 01-09-2018, 10:25 AM
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Everest is another title with the black issue. Seems it was only a handful of initial Universal titles that had the black issue.
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post #2661 of 4239 Old 01-09-2018, 11:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Everest is another title with the black issue. Seems it was only a handful of initial Universal titles that had the black issue.
Thanks I'll check it out.

I remember that Divergent (Lionsgate) and/or one of the Hunger Games also had raised blacks, but I'm not sure they were 0.005 nits titles. Need to look at these too.

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post #2662 of 4239 Old 01-09-2018, 02:14 PM
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For rs420 x5500 series can the autocal with spyder5 do hdr calibration?
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post #2663 of 4239 Old 01-09-2018, 04:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krumme View Post
For rs420 x5500 series can the autocal with spyder5 do hdr calibration?
Autocal will calibrate the BT2020 colour profile, but in most cases you would need a better EOTF (gamma) curve than the one provided by JVC.

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post #2664 of 4239 Old 01-10-2018, 07:32 PM
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Alright all, so I screwed up my last autocal, lost probably at least 10% of my Lumens, not exactly sure how much as I didn't note the before/after.

So now the question is, how do I get it back. I know I've seen Manni reference losing brightness after autocal, do I have to reload my INIT file and start over?

I don't recall seeing much discussion on correcting a "bad" autocal.
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post #2665 of 4239 Old 01-11-2018, 12:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by stanger89 View Post
Alright all, so I screwed up my last autocal, lost probably at least 10% of my Lumens, not exactly sure how much as I didn't note the before/after.

So now the question is, how do I get it back. I know I've seen Manni reference losing brightness after autocal, do I have to reload my INIT file and start over?

I don't recall seeing much discussion on correcting a "bad" autocal.
There is no need to restore the INIT file, as this will reset all your autocals, not just the last one you "screwed", provided you run more than one during each session (one for different modes, i.e. SDR, HDR, etc). If one Autocal isn't satisfactory, just run another one over it without changing the iris/cmd/filter settings until you get good results and keep going. If you want to get back to your last autocal results, it's much better to restore the last backup (the one saved after your last autocal of your last mode/combination of settings at the end of your autocal session). That means you'll get back to what you had just before your "screwed" autocal session, for all your calibrations. You won't get back to what you had after your last successful one, due to lamp, panel, filters drift etc.

Each backup file, saved when you save the Autocal, saves the PJ state just after the Autocal session just saved, for ALL the calibrations. The INIT file is exactly the same, except it's BEFORE you've run any calibration. It's just the state of the PJ for ALL calibrations BEFORE you run the first one. Due to lamp/panel/filter drift, it's only exceptionally useful to go back there and almost never a good idea to restore it, except when the PJ is new/almost new.

First thing to check is the meter. If it has drifted it could be the reason for the brigthness loss. The Spyders have plastic filters so they do drift after a while if you don't keep them in Peli-case with dessicant, which slows down the process but doesn't entirely prevent it.

Is your brightness loss right after the autocal, or after you correct the gains at 100% white?
Have you selected the correct screen (especially if your screen isn't color neutral)?
Have you corrected the errors of the Spyder with a matrix using a reference meter?
Have you checked during the autocal that the log didn't show any zero gamma measurement near black?
Which measurement is wrong? The P3 filter and the panels can drift too, so there are things against which there is little you can do: poor saturation tracking in BT2020 due to filter drift, gamut shrinking due to panel drift, brightness drop due to lamp aging.

If you tell us what is "screwed" it will be easier to diagnose if it's the meter, the user, the PJ, the lamp or a combination these. Hopefully, you measured your "before" state with another software and a better/reference meter before running the Autocal, so you know what's caused by the Autocal and what's not. If you haven't, it's highly recommended to do so to be able to identify possible issues due to PJ drift (lamp/filter/panel) that might not be autocal related even if you only notice them after the autocal.

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Last edited by Manni01; 01-11-2018 at 12:33 AM.
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post #2666 of 4239 Old 01-11-2018, 05:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
First thing to check is the meter. If it has drifted it could be the reason for the brigthness loss. The Spyders have plastic filters so they do drift after a while if you don't keep them in Peli-case with dessicant, which slows down the process but doesn't entirely prevent it.
I'll probably have to do that.

Quote:
Is your brightness loss right after the autocal, or after you correct the gains at 100% white?
Yeah, right after the autocal (color only), I didn't mess with anything else.

Quote:
Have you selected the correct screen (especially if your screen isn't color neutral)?
I haven't actually been using that, my screen appears to be pretty color neutral.

Quote:
Have you corrected the errors of the Spyder with a matrix using a reference meter?
Do you mean a custom color profile to account for the spyder errors? If so, yes, otherwise I'm not sure, I was just measuring fc with my Lux meter.

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Have you checked during the autocal that the log didn't show any zero gamma measurement near black?
I didn't run a full gamma autocal, but there were no zero's in the log either before or after.

Quote:
Which measurement is wrong? The P3 filter and the panels can drift too, so there are things against which there is little you can do: poor saturation tracking in BT2020 due to filter drift, gamut shrinking due to panel drift, brightness drop due to lamp aging.
So I didn't have a chance to go remeasure with my i1D3/Calman, what I did was:
Setup a new user memory referencing my new custom 2020NF profile.
Measured fc with my light meter, compared it to my other user memory with a custom 2020F profile
Ran color only autocal on that user memory
Measured fc with my light meter, and noticed a 10% (like I said I didn't actually write down the numbers, shame on me) drop vs pre-autocal for peak white.

Quote:
If you tell us what is "screwed" it will be easier to diagnose if it's the meter, the user, the PJ, the lamp or a combination these. Hopefully, you measured your "before" state with another software and a better/reference meter before running the Autocal, so you know what's caused by the Autocal and what's not. If you haven't, it's highly recommended to do so to be able to identify possible issues due to PJ drift (lamp/filter/panel) that might not be autocal related even if you only notice them after the autocal.
Yeah, I was kind of in a hurry, I really just wanted to try out a 2020NF profile to see what a few more nits look like, so I wasn't as thorough as I should have been. But I'd had pretty good luck with autocal (or so I thought) so far when I have double checked with Calman, I figured I could just do a "quick" cal of my new profile/memory.

I probably really should just set aside a couple hours, restore my INIT and just start from scratch.

Maybe I should try and find a used i1 Pro or something.
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post #2667 of 4239 Old 01-11-2018, 07:57 AM
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Hey guys,..working with Ryan Masciola to get his test pattern files to work on ATV4. He sent me the black clipping 2 file to test and it works on ATV4 in 4k as it's saved in my itunes library!!!! See attached, for the first few seconds, the 81 and higher flash grey then black, grey then black and then after the first few seconds, it seems all of them start flashing as in the pic below. Meaning at 64 you can see a very very faint hint of great but definitely can see at 77. Assuming people have used this same file burnt on 4k DVD, do you wait until all the bars are flashing (like after a few seconds) and bbo to make 77 not flash (black)?

Sorry in advance if the file is HUGE...can't figure out how to shrink it down....
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post #2668 of 4239 Old 01-11-2018, 09:21 AM
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I don't know the answer to your question but it is WAY awesome if we are going to see patterns compatible with the ATV4k. I have the soft copy files and the UDH Disk, and this would help me ensure that my ATK4K is outputting the same signal as the UHD player. Thanks!
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post #2669 of 4239 Old 01-11-2018, 10:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by stanger89 View Post
I'll probably have to do that.



Yeah, right after the autocal (color only), I didn't mess with anything else.



I haven't actually been using that, my screen appears to be pretty color neutral.



Do you mean a custom color profile to account for the spyder errors? If so, yes, otherwise I'm not sure, I was just measuring fc with my Lux meter.



I didn't run a full gamma autocal, but there were no zero's in the log either before or after.



So I didn't have a chance to go remeasure with my i1D3/Calman, what I did was:
Setup a new user memory referencing my new custom 2020NF profile.
Measured fc with my light meter, compared it to my other user memory with a custom 2020F profile
Ran color only autocal on that user memory
Measured fc with my light meter, and noticed a 10% (like I said I didn't actually write down the numbers, shame on me) drop vs pre-autocal for peak white.



Yeah, I was kind of in a hurry, I really just wanted to try out a 2020NF profile to see what a few more nits look like, so I wasn't as thorough as I should have been. But I'd had pretty good luck with autocal (or so I thought) so far when I have double checked with Calman, I figured I could just do a "quick" cal of my new profile/memory.

I probably really should just set aside a couple hours, restore my INIT and just start from scratch.

Maybe I should try and find a used i1 Pro or something.
Yes I meant a custom colour profile correcting the Spyder's errors.

You can't simply use BT-2020NF and run the color autocal because whatever gamma you have was calculated either with the right gamut but with a filter (reference) or with the wrong gamut but without a filter (standard). There is no reference-NF preset, so we can't run an autocal for BT-2020NF. I need to run some tests and do measurements to see what the best factory color profile should be used to achieve the best possible calibration with BT2020-NF. It's something I ran into a while ago but completely forgot about, and recently Asharma brought it up (see recent posts) and we said he had to wait until I could find the time. So either you have the time to run all the experiments, or you'll have to wait too. At this stage, I can't make any recommendation regarding how to calibrate with BT-2020NF.

If you've wrecked your HDR calibration, it's safer to redo it (using reference for gamma+color), or even simply to reload your previous corrected profile if you have it. Once you correct a profile there is no need to re-run the colour autocal on the corrected profile. You can try to interpolate the correction to BT2020NF from BT2020-F, but there is no guarantee it will not make it worse as the corrction to apply might not be the same with and without the filter.

There is no point in buying an i1pro if you have an i2d3. The accuracy is about the same with LCOS (provided yours is decent, and most of them are). If you get a spectro, get an i1pro2, at least that model is supported by the new models/new versions of Autocal. But as the i1pro2 isn't usable on its own for gamma without training it to a colorimeter (I use my Discus) I have no idea how that works.

If it's only to create your custom colour profile correcting the errors of the Spyder, an i1pro will give you very little over your i1d3.

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JVC Macro feature on Vertex/Vertex2/Integral2/Maestro
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post #2670 of 4239 Old 01-11-2018, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
You can't simply use BT-2020NF and run the color autocal because whatever gamma you have was calculated either with the right gamut but with a filter (reference) or with the wrong gamut but without a filter (standard). There is no reference-NF preset, so we can't run an autocal for BT-2020NF. I need to run some tests and do measurements to see what the best factory color profile should be used to achieve the best possible calibration with BT2020-NF. It's something I ran into a while ago but completely forgot about, and recently Asharma brought it up (see recent posts) and we said he had to wait until I could find the time. So either you have the time to run all the experiments, or you'll have to wait too. At this stage, I can't make any recommendation regarding how to calibrate with BT-2020NF.
I recalled the recent discussion, but I misinterpreted what you were telling Asharma.

Quote:
If you've wrecked your HDR calibration, it's safer to redo it (using reference for gamma+color), or even simply to reload your previous corrected profile if you have it. Once you correct a profile there is no need to re-run the colour autocal on the corrected profile. You can try to interpolate the correction to BT2020NF from BT2020-F, but there is no guarantee it will not make it worse as the corrction to apply might not be the same with and without the filter.
Yeah, I remember that now, it's just been a long time. I'd forgotten that when I made my original "S5" (Spyder 5) profiles, I'd just done a regular autocal, ran measurements between my Spyder and i1D3 in Calman (or probably HCFR since Calman didn't support the Spyder at the time) computed the new profile, and uploaded it.

I also need to go download Chad's profile creator spreadsheet from the Calman forums, I just made my own, I'm sure his is more accurate.

Quote:
There is no point in buying an i1pro if you have an i2d3. The accuracy is about the same with LCOS (provided yours is decent, and most of them are). If you get a spectro, get an i1pro2, at least that model is supported by the new models/new versions of Autocal. But as the i1pro2 isn't usable on its own for gamma without training it to a colorimeter (I use my Discus) I have no idea how that works.
Doh, I guess that used one I saw wasn't an i1pro2. But that's the rub isn't it, how do you know if your i1d3 is good. I assume mine is, but it's an assumption. Of course the reasons above is why I'd never go buy a new one for $1000+. I thought I found one on Ebay for $375, but apparently it's an older one, not the 2.

Quote:
If it's only to create your custom colour profile correcting the errors of the Spyder, an i1pro will give you very little over your i1d3.
Good to know. We'll see when I get back to this, I may be able to "fix" my cal by just reverting to a calibration before yesterday. Things seemed decent before I (errantly) ran autocal when I shouldn't have last night. Maybe I'll take the time to upload my prior autocal and do a quick run through with Calman and my i1D3 and see how things look. My cal has actually been looking pretty good in Calman, though my secondaries were off a decent amount last time I checked.
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