Originally Posted by SherazNJ
Are you referring to the projector noise in high lamp or the noise is image due to lamp being in high mode? If its the projector making noise, I think I might be ok since I had no issue running Sony 600ES in high mode. Projector is mounted around 5 1/2 feet behind MLP and therefore, once the movie starts, it disappears (at least it did with Sony).
I'm referring to projector noise (audible). You might say that now, but when you're faced with the choice of running it in the "loud" mode, vs the "quiet" mode, I think most would choose quiet. It's not about whether the noise is an issue or not, most HT projectors are quiet enough that, as you say, they disappear once the movie starts, the issue is if you want to run it in the louder mode or not. And even though high lamp is quite quiet compared to other projectors, on the JVCs (I'm going off my RS4910 experience here) low is all but silent which is very nice when you hit those quiet passages.
As you mentioned that the most important is cost of lamp, noise, and getting the most contrast I can. Cost isn't important to me. Noise might not be an issue. For getting most contrast, you mentioned that room plays the most important role. I have taken care of that already.
Then you're 99.9% of the way there. Frankly the contrast advantage/difference between settings is largely theoretical. I'm of the camp, based on my experience, that you need order of magnitude differences in contrast for it to be "noticeable". By noticeable I mean not requiring side by side/split screen comparisons to identify it. My Planar 8150 (15,000:1 dynamic, ~2500:1 native) is noticeably different contrast wise than my RS4910 (~300,000:1+ dynamic, 35,000:1 native), but I can't say I've ever really noticed any contrast difference by changing settings on my JVC (other than enabling the DI makes a difference, ah ha! order of magnitude
So it seems like from all the comments, one should try to get more on/off contrast as compared to ANSI because ANSI ratio is not 100% applicable to watching movie. To increase on/off, best is to keep iris on lower side. If this requires high lamp and cost/noise is not an issue then its the way to go.
Did I get it right.
I guess what I'm getting at is, it's good to consider your setup, consider throw, and lamp mode etc, and just not worry about contrast. You've made your choice in projector, and treated your room, that's 99.9% of the equation. Anything else you do/change, any settings are unlikely to make any sort of visible difference (outside of enabling the DI or not). The difference in noise between high and low lamp will be much more noticeable than the difference between -5 and -10 on the iris.
Further you'll get greater dynamic contrast (lower absolute black floor for fade to blacks) with the iris at -5 than -10. If low lamp produces enough brightness, I'd just run that, and save high lamp for 3D or when the lamp ages.