Official JVC DLA-RS400 (X550/X5000) Owner's Thread - Page 150 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4471 of 5851 Old 07-17-2017, 07:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lightivity View Post
- Screen size: 230 cm diagonal (90 inch)
- Screen fabric: matt, white, stretchable/soft plastic fabric on a fixed frame. The brand of frame and fabric is Adeo Plano, gain 1.2
- Aspect ratio: 16:9
- Throw distance: 3,6 meters

Room is bat cave: completely light-controlled with painted black ceiling and velvet on walls, black carpet on floor.

EDIT 1: The screen surface is probably VisionWhitePro (bought long ago so lost the details of the purchase): http://www.adeoscreen.com/default.php?t=site&pgid=186

Edit 2: Throw distance is 3.6 m

EDIT 3: My gain is 1.2
You are right at mid throw on a small 90" diagonal screen. You have plenty of brightness for HDR. You will be able to get 80+ FL. Once above 30FL, you easily gain benefits from HDR. Your problem will be with 2D. With normal lamp (low) you will not be able to get below mid 20's and that is with iris fully closed. Once you get 500 to 1,000 hours on the lamp, you will be in better shape with 2D and still have good brightness with 3D. The 4 series JVC's can't go as dim as the 5 or 6 series.
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post #4472 of 5851 Old 07-17-2017, 08:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Garrett View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lightivity View Post
- Screen size: 230 cm diagonal (90 inch)
- Screen fabric: matt, white, stretchable/soft plastic fabric on a fixed frame. The brand of frame and fabric is Adeo Plano, gain 1.2
- Aspect ratio: 16:9
- Throw distance: 3,6 meters

Room is bat cave: completely light-controlled with painted black ceiling and velvet on walls, black carpet on floor.

EDIT 1: The screen surface is probably VisionWhitePro (bought long ago so lost the details of the purchase): http://www.adeoscreen.com/default.php?t=site&pgid=186

Edit 2: Throw distance is 3.6 m

EDIT 3: My gain is 1.2
You are right at mid throw on a small 90" diagonal screen. You have plenty of brightness for HDR. You will be able to get 80+ FL. Once above 30FL, you easily gain benefits from HDR. Your problem will be with 2D. With normal lamp (low) you will not be able to get below mid 20's and that is with iris fully closed. Once you get 500 to 1,000 hours on the lamp, you will be in better shape with 2D and still have good brightness with 3D. The 4 series JVC's can't go as dim as the 5 or 6 series.
Thank you very much.

Seems I will do fine with HDR and 3D.

When you say problem with 2D, I guess you mean too much light. What's the consequence? Will it affect black level?
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post #4473 of 5851 Old 07-17-2017, 08:20 AM
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And when you say 2D, I'm assuming you're referring to transmissions without HDR nor 3D?
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post #4474 of 5851 Old 07-17-2017, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Garrett View Post
You are right at mid throw on a small 90" diagonal screen. You have plenty of brightness for HDR. You will be able to get 80+ FL. Once above 30FL, you easily gain benefits from HDR. Your problem will be with 2D. With normal lamp (low) you will not be able to get below mid 20's and that is with iris fully closed. Once you get 500 to 1,000 hours on the lamp, you will be in better shape with 2D and still have good brightness with 3D. The 4 series JVC's can't go as dim as the 5 or 6 series.
Hey Mike, how would a rs400 do for HDR on a 136" Carada BW 2.35 screen? Total batcave with about a 17' throw? I am not able to measure nits? Would i be above the recommended 100 nits?
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post #4475 of 5851 Old 07-17-2017, 12:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lightivity View Post
Thank you very much.

Seems I will do fine with HDR and 3D.

When you say problem with 2D, I guess you mean too much light. What's the consequence? Will it affect black level?
Yes, talking about 1080P 2D. You will have elevated black floor, since the image will be very bright. You could always run an ND filter in front of the lens for 1080P 2D content.
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post #4476 of 5851 Old 07-17-2017, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by sotwell View Post
Hey Mike, how would a rs400 do for HDR on a 136" Carada BW 2.35 screen? Total batcave with about a 17' throw? I am not able to measure nits? Would i be above the recommended 100 nits?
You are looking at around 31FL with a new lamp. With a custom curve it should look pretty good.
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post #4477 of 5851 Old 07-17-2017, 06:08 PM
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Thinking about purchasing HD FURY Linker to enable the auto iris with HDR.... Is this purchase worth doing & what's the benefits of having the Iris working with HDR ?

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post #4478 of 5851 Old 07-17-2017, 07:22 PM
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Thinking about purchasing HD FURY Linker to enable the auto iris with HDR.... Is this purchase worth doing & what's the benefits of having the Iris working with HDR ?
The idea of auto iris is that it closes down in darker scenes, to increase your blacks, widens in bright scenes, allowing for greater brightness; the net result is effectively increasing the dynamic range available to be displayed.

The downside is that in a given scene, the iris may fluctuate between 2 values, being seen as unexpected shifts in brightness - this is called iris pumping.

For me, despite trying it on numerous occasions, the iris pumping was a major distraction, and it never seemed to have a noticeable effect on blacks. So at least with my RS400, in my room, the negatives outweigh the positives, so I don't use it for SDR. I would tend to doubt I would like it any better in HDR if I used the Linker.

You can read the last several posts in the RS500/RS600 thread, where various people indicate their preferences in this regard. For some, getting a better fade to black is more important, and they don't mind the iris pumping when it occurs. For me, it's the opposite.

So it's definitely a subjective thing, with no objective right or wrong, better or worse.
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post #4479 of 5851 Old 07-17-2017, 08:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DLCPhoto View Post
For me, despite trying it on numerous occasions, the iris pumping was a major distraction, and it never seemed to have a noticeable effect on blacks.
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Originally Posted by Nexgen76 View Post
Thinking about purchasing HD FURY Linker to enable the auto iris with HDR.... Is this purchase worth doing & what's the benefits of having the Iris working with HDR ?
Do you use auto iris for non HDR content and like it? If so, it will give you the same result for HDR content. I agree with DLCPhoto. I personally do not like the auto iris as I can see it operating and find it distracting.

HD Fury makes the Linker and Integral. Between those products you get 3 advantages I see:

1) Use of Auto Iris.
2) Stop the automatic switching back Gamma D if your using a custom curve.
3) Ability to Strip HDR and use 2020 WCG SDR.

I'm not entirely certain which HD Fury product does what though. Hopefully someone can chime in.
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post #4480 of 5851 Old 07-18-2017, 05:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post
Do you use auto iris for non HDR content and like it? If so, it will give you the same result for HDR content. I agree with DLCPhoto. I personally do not like the auto iris as I can see it operating and find it distracting.

HD Fury makes the Linker and Integral. Between those products you get 3 advantages I see:

1) Use of Auto Iris.
2) Stop the automatic switching back Gamma D if your using a custom curve.
3) Ability to Strip HDR and use 2020 WCG SDR.

I'm not entirely certain which HD Fury product does what though. Hopefully someone can chime in.
The Linker will take care of functions 1 and 2. The Integral is required to handle # 3.

They are coming out with a new product, the Vertex, around Nov. 1, which will handle all these functions, apparently provide, a new GUI, and likely have other functions as well. Price is $349, so not cheap, but if anyone wants these functions, this will take care of it all.

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post #4481 of 5851 Old 07-18-2017, 09:17 AM
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Has anyone watched "The Fifth Element" yet? The HDR image is EXTREMELY dim. I do not get this issue with other HDR titles.

I guess I need to check HDR settings on the RS400 again.
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post #4482 of 5851 Old 07-18-2017, 12:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DLCPhoto View Post
The idea of auto iris is that it closes down in darker scenes, to increase your blacks, widens in bright scenes, allowing for greater brightness; the net result is effectively increasing the dynamic range available to be displayed.

The downside is that in a given scene, the iris may fluctuate between 2 values, being seen as unexpected shifts in brightness - this is called iris pumping.

For me, despite trying it on numerous occasions, the iris pumping was a major distraction, and it never seemed to have a noticeable effect on blacks. So at least with my RS400, in my room, the negatives outweigh the positives, so I don't use it for SDR. I would tend to doubt I would like it any better in HDR if I used the Linker.

You can read the last several posts in the RS500/RS600 thread, where various people indicate their preferences in this regard. For some, getting a better fade to black is more important, and they don't mind the iris pumping when it occurs. For me, it's the opposite.

So it's definitely a subjective thing, with no objective right or wrong, better or worse.
If we are running HDR at high lamp and to get full brightness the Iris cranked to Zero, then my understanding is the the DI does not come into play with Iris set at Zero?
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post #4483 of 5851 Old 07-18-2017, 12:21 PM
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If we are running HDR at high lamp and to get full brightness the Iris cranked to Zero, then my understanding is the the DI does not come into play with Iris set at Zero?
The iris setting determines the maximum, or widest, it will open, in bright scenes. It doesn't limit how small the iris can get in dark scenes.

So, if somebody determines that they need no more than -8 on their iris settings, for the brightest scenes, then it will open no further than -8. It will still shut down as small as needed for the dark scenes. For many of us, with large screens, and not a full bat-cave, we need all the light we can get. So I have mine set to 0 as well for HDR, high lamp.

I choose not to engage DI since I don't care for the iris pumping, which is a major distraction to me, and since I don't really find a significant improvement in blacks.

Don

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post #4484 of 5851 Old 07-18-2017, 12:49 PM
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I wrote this a couple of weeks ago:
I rent movies in iTunes Store on the Apple TV 3
It worked fine with my old JVC X35
So I just assumed that it would be the same with the X5000
But there is serious stuttering

Today I tried switching the HDMI EDID to B just to try something... and it worked
Now, if I had only figured it out yesterday: Had to watch La La Land on my small 55" OLED (the movie has an aspect ratio of 2,55:1)
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post #4485 of 5851 Old 07-18-2017, 06:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DLCPhoto View Post
The Linker will take care of functions 1 and 2. The Integral is required to handle # 3.

They are coming out with a new product, the Vertex, around Nov. 1, which will handle all these functions, apparently provide, a new GUI, and likely have other functions as well. Price is $349, so not cheap, but if anyone wants these functions, this will take care of it all.
I currently don't have my Integral connected as I'm happy with HDR and a custom curve on my JVC RS400. BUT, I would love to have it stop defaulting to Gamma D on each handshake. Does that happen if I just put it back inline, or do I actually have to learn how to set it somehow?

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post #4486 of 5851 Old 07-18-2017, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Jive Turkey View Post
I currently don't have my Integral connected as I'm happy with HDR and a custom curve on my JVC RS400. BUT, I would love to have it stop defaulting to Gamma D on each handshake. Does that happen if I just put it back inline, or do I actually have to learn how to set it somehow?
You actually need the Linker, not the Integral, to do that, unfortunately. Or the new Vertex coming out in November, which has the functionality of both the Linker and Integral combined.

I'm pretty certain you would have to configure the Linker to get what you want, but I don't think it would be particularly difficult - just a matter of knowing the specific settings, which you should be able to get readily from either HDFury directly, or a quick post in the RS500/RS600 thread. And it's likely been asked or posted before, so I'd search that thread, and probably find it that way.

You might also want to look at recent posts, as if I recall correctly, some were complaining of some stability problems with the Linker initially, in this regard. But I think HDFury put out some firmware updates, which improved things.

But before you spend the money on a Linker, I'd contact someone who is using it for this purpose, to be sure about how well it would do what you want, and if there are any issues.

Don

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post #4487 of 5851 Old 07-18-2017, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by DLCPhoto View Post

But before you spend the money on a Linker, I'd contact someone who is using it for this purpose, to be sure about how well it would do what you want, and if there are any issues.

Don
That being the case, I'll probably just stick with Gamma D's crappy look to remind me to change to Custom 1.

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post #4488 of 5851 Old 07-18-2017, 07:48 PM
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That being the case, I'll probably just stick with Gamma D's crappy look to remind me to change to Custom 1.
Yeah, for me, it's just not worth the money and minor hassle.

When I play a UHD/HDR disk, I don't make any changes at all until I actually start the movie itself. With my setup, I can still hit Pause to do this, or during the movie, for a bathroom break, and it will stay with my Custom Gamma.
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post #4489 of 5851 Old 07-19-2017, 03:53 AM
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I apologize if this has been answered before (probably, as the thread is 150 pages)
I need the easiest way to calibrate my X5000 with the auto-calibration feature
I'm not good with these things so a step-by-step guide for dummies would be appreciated
What do I need and what do I do?
The guy who was supposed to calibrate it keeps pushing the date

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post #4490 of 5851 Old 07-19-2017, 04:46 AM
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I apologize if this has been answered before (probably, as the thread is 150 pages)
I need the easiest way to calibrate my X5000 with the auto-calibration feature
I'm not good with these things so a step-by-step guide for dummies would be appreciated
What do I need and what do I do?
The guy who was supposed to calibrate it keeps pushing the date
The basics are covered in the Manual provided by JVC:

JVC Autocal Software Manual

The other source of information is a huge thread here, but see Posts #1 and #1 0 for the essentials:

JVC Autocal Thread

As with most things, it sounds worse than it is, but it will still take some reading, thinking, and planning.

Those are the basics. People in this thread, but especially the main RS500/RS600 thread, and the Autocal thread linked above, are happy to help, but you will need to do your homework first.

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post #4491 of 5851 Old 07-19-2017, 04:57 AM
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Originally Posted by jake51 View Post
I apologize if this has been answered before (probably, as the thread is 150 pages)
I need the easiest way to calibrate my X5000 with the auto-calibration feature
I'm not good with these things so a step-by-step guide for dummies would be appreciated
What do I need and what do I do?
The guy who was supposed to calibrate it keeps pushing the date
I just sent you a PM with detailed instructions. I'm working on a condensed single post step-by-step DIY for autocal to accompany my Step-by-step Custom Gamma Curve DIY. Once I have it fully vetted I'll post in publicly in this thread and link it in my sig.
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post #4492 of 5851 Old 07-19-2017, 05:11 AM
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You will have elevated black floor, since the image will be very bright. You could always run an ND filter in front of the lens for 1080P 2D content.
BTW, who makes ND filters that fit the JVC lenses? They'd have to be outer-mount + friction-fit, right? Since the JVC's don't have any threaded areas on the inner fronts.
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post #4493 of 5851 Old 07-19-2017, 06:36 AM
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BTW, who makes ND filters that fit the JVC lenses? They'd have to be outer-mount + friction-fit, right? Since the JVC's don't have any threaded areas on the inner fronts.
I doubt you find one that fits. You would have to rig something up.
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post #4494 of 5851 Old 07-20-2017, 12:04 AM
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post #4495 of 5851 Old 07-20-2017, 03:13 AM
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Dreamliner, should I buy the Express or Pro version of Spyder 5?
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post #4496 of 5851 Old 07-20-2017, 04:58 AM
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Dreamliner, should I buy the Express or Pro version of Spyder 5?
Hardware is identical for all versions so Express is fine. The Spyder has a screw mount so a camera tripod will also be helpful unless you plan to get very creative.
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post #4497 of 5851 Old 07-20-2017, 05:17 AM
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I assume that the Spyder should be positioned in front of the very center of the screen?
I just measured: The center is 160 centimeters from the ground (63 inches)

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post #4498 of 5851 Old 07-20-2017, 01:10 PM
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So, after a day and an half installing my JVC in the ceiling, today I tried connecting my Sony X800. Sadly the projector won't accept any signal in 4K including the Sony home menu - I have to revert to 480p to get anything on screen at all.

The cable is 4k certified Supra MetB, 10 meter (specified to [email protected] Hz 1-10 meter).

Any ideas?

JVC RS400/X5000, Marantz SR5011, Sony UHD X800
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post #4499 of 5851 Old 07-20-2017, 01:14 PM
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So, after a day and an half installing my JVC in the ceiling, today I tried connecting my Sony X800. Sadly the projector won't accept any signal in 4K including the Sony home menu - I have to revert to 480p to get anything on screen at all.

The cable is 4k certified Supra MetB, 10 meter (specified to [email protected] Hz 1-10 meter).

Any ideas?
Try a different HDMI cable. " certified " means nothing.
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post #4500 of 5851 Old 07-20-2017, 01:20 PM
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Thanks - not that easy though, they cost a fortune here in Sweden. This particular one was almost 190 USD from a Swedish producer well known for their quality. It can't be anything else than the cable?
What's the Sony player outputting signal wise ? Which HDMI port on the projector ?
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