Originally Posted by phansson
I think it is a calibration issue as well. I just never got around to calibrating the machine 100% completely. I did use the HDR recommendations from the JVC manual. Is there a settings thread anywhere that users are posting results? I know it will not be 100% accurate.
I am going to reset to factory and start over. Thank you for the help.
The HDR recommendations from the JVC manual are unfortunately, grossly inadequate. And there's not a simple way to just copy settings from another user. I just sent someone else from this thread a PM addressing these issues, and should help point you in the right direction:
Here is my understanding of the basic steps that needs to be done to get an accurate, consistent picture.
For regular Blu-ray:
1. JVC Auto-calibration, which utilizes a Spyder 5 sensor (about $100 on Amazon), and the Autocal software provided by JVC.
There is a somewhat steep learning curve here, although once you understand what needs to be done, actually doing it is fairly straightforward. To get an idea of what is involved here, see Posts #1
, 9 and 10 in this thread:
JVC Autocalibration Software V6 & V7
2. As part of this process, you will download, import and calibrate the "Rec709" Color Profile.
3. Once these steps are done, you would set up a User Picture Mode in one of the available slots on the Projector, give it a username so you know what it is, and then select that Rec709 Color Profile, and Gamma of 2.3 (possibly 2.4).
These steps form the foundation for viewing any material on these Projectors.
If you're up for the challenge of doing it yourself, there are plenty of people on the forum, myself included, to help you through the process. If you don't have the time, interest, or patience for this, then getting ChadB to do it for you is an excellent choice. You can check on his website, but I'm guessing NJ is within his travel area.
And to finish the process up, you could also then use the Disney WOW Disc, or a free one available for download on AVS, to tweak Brightness, Contrast, Color, etc. You would also select an appropriate Aperture to get the brightness you want, choose Dynamic Iris or not, etc.
For 3D Blu-ray:
Building on the same foundation for regular Blu-ray, you would set up a separate User Picture Mode, giving it an appropriate name, and once again select the Rec709 Color Profile, use a Gamma (anywhere from 2.1 to 2.3, to make up for some of the lost brightness), possibly with some tweaks of the Sub-gamma settings (Dark Level, Picture Tone, Brightness Level). Typically you would also select High Lamp, and open the Aperture up completely, also to maximize brightness, since you lose a lot with any of the 3D glasses. The Color Profile remains the same - Rec709.
For UHD/HDR Blu-ray:
You would set up a 3rd User Picture Mode, with an appropriate name, and here you would select the BT2020 Color Profile, since HDR uses a different color space from the Rec709 one. During the initial Autocalibration, you would have downloaded, installed and calibrated this Color Profile, just as you would have for the Rec709.
For the Gamma setting, none of the options provided by JVC, including their "Gamma D," provides acceptable results, so you need to take a different approach:
One option is to import one of the curves made by others (Javs, Manni, etc.). This can be done using either the JVC Software, or Arve's software, depending on which curve you use, and what format it is in. I have used Javs "1000nit" curve, as well as Manni's 'DCE' (Dolby Cinema Emulation) curve, and they work fairly well.
The other option is to create your own curve, which would give the best results, since it would be customized to your room, your screen and throw distance, etc. This process is addressed by multiple forum members, and information and links can be found the appropriate section of Post #1
in that JVC Autocal thread linked to above.
Again, this is not technically demanding and challenging, but there is a learning curve in order to understand how to use the software, how the various parameters affect the curve, etc. But not everybody has the time or patience to deal with this themselves, and it is something that ChadB would include in his professional calibration (and he would do a better job of it than almost any of us would be able to accomplish on our own).
In a (somewhat large) nutshell, that's most of what you need to know to get your RS400 to give you an excellent movie watching experience!