Official JVC DLA-RS400 (X550/X5000) Owner's Thread - Page 172 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #5131 of 5693 Old 04-29-2018, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Hawks07 View Post
Yes this is a really annoying issue that still pops up occasionally for me as well. For me it seems to happen when I add a new device to the chain or when I upgrade firmware on a device like a blu ray player.
I just recently added the Oppo and had this problem when I upgraded the Oppo's firmware.
As far as I know there is no firmware fix for this. Some people say that turning off CMD fixes it but it is off in my unit and I still have the problem.
I had intentionally set most of my equipment to the same output format so that I didn't have too much trouble switching. Having the 4k player which switches to the various frame rates and such depending on the disk being played means a lot more re-syncs, and probably more of that issue cropping up.

Remember, no matter where you go... You're not where you were anymore.

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post #5132 of 5693 Old 04-30-2018, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by radchad3 View Post
Thank you all for the input on the HDR and reliability!
JVC builds a solid unit.......Sure you will have some units fail, but for the most part use and enjoy....
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post #5133 of 5693 Old 04-30-2018, 11:30 AM
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Ok, thank you!

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post #5134 of 5693 Old 05-01-2018, 03:36 PM
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I haven't had to think about my projector for the last 18 months or so (just been using it), but as I finally decided to get a 4k player, it brought a couple things to mind. First of course is getting the color profiles and curves loaded. That's easy enough to do. The second is a problem it seemed a handful of folks witnessed on the JVCs and I'm curious if any firmware updates ever corrected it.

We all know the JVC takes a while to pair to the given input mode, but the problem is when switching back and forth on a semi-frequent basis, every once in a while the projector goes ballistic and starts through random color lines all over the screen (no image, just the lines). The only way to correct is to power cycle the projector, which of course means waiting for the bulb cool down time and all, plus it can't be great for the bulb. I can't remember which owners thread I saw some other folks talking about it, but does anyone know if there have been any firmware updates that might have addressed it?
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Originally Posted by Hawks07 View Post
Yes this is a really annoying issue that still pops up occasionally for me as well. For me it seems to happen when I add a new device to the chain or when I upgrade firmware on a device like a blu ray player.
I just recently added the Oppo and had this problem when I upgraded the Oppo's firmware.
As far as I know there is no firmware fix for this. Some people say that turning off CMD fixes it but it is off in my unit and I still have the problem.
FWIW, I have never once ever had this issue and I cycle between 4K & HD all the time. I do have CMD off, shut it off within 1 hour of first ever power-on. I think I'm at 1800 hours or so.
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post #5135 of 5693 Old 05-25-2018, 12:37 PM
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Hi guys. Does anybody know if they make an HDMI support clamp that fits the screws at the hdmi connectors on the back of our projectors? Is that what those are for? I remember Epson included some plastic ones that shipped with their 5020. They just help support the connection so a heavy cable doesn't put too much pressure on the connector(weighing or pulling down). I searched but couldn't find anything.

BTW, I finally was able to upload 3 new gamma curves saved in Custom 1, 2 and 3. I have a favorite but can't remember now if it was Jav's, Manni's or whos.....but night and day difference to gamma D. My projector(X550R) doesn't default to gamma D like I thought I had read........it powers on and plays with last selected.

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post #5136 of 5693 Old 05-25-2018, 03:50 PM
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Hi guys. Does anybody know if they make an HDMI support clamp that fits the screws at the hdmi connectors on the back of our projectors? Is that what those are for?
This one works well but you need to replace the screw:
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=8062
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post #5137 of 5693 Old 05-25-2018, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post
FWIW, I have never once ever had this issue and I cycle between 4K & HD all the time. I do have CMD off, shut it off within 1 hour of first ever power-on. I think I'm at 1800 hours or so.
I think 4k 60 content (directv roku) is what causes this thats when it happens to me anyway
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post #5138 of 5693 Old 06-15-2018, 04:13 PM
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I had a strange thing happen last night while watching a movie...the screen went dark as the audio continued on from the movie. A quick look back at my PJ and I see that it is off while all three indicator lights are on, Standby/On, Lamp & Warning. Standby/On is solid red, Lamp is flashing orange and Warning is flashing red...the flashing lights are flashing 3 times and then repeating. Great! - the PJ is only 4 months old

Page 75 of the manual says "abnormal circuit operation"...while the cooling fans were operating, I checked this thread as well as the thread for the 500/600 and found a couple of posts. I followed the advice of the lone post on this thread and did a "reset" of the PJ by disconnecting the power, pressing the Standby/ON button on the PJ once and then let the PJ sit overnight. Today I went ahead and pressed the Standby/On button again and then connected the power cord and hoped for the best. Thankfully, it turned on and all is right with the world!

While researching this issue, the next step would have been re-seating the lamp or trying a new lamp per JVC service. It doesn't look like this happens very much in either thread so I am hopeful this is a one off...

I hope this helps someone...
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Originally Posted by MalevolentHamster View Post
Hi All

Got my new DLA-RS400U last week.

Had several occasions where the projector wouldn't startup properly: no light inside lens and two red lights on with orange flashing. I called JVC (was a Saturday). They said try a reset (disconnect power, press standby button once) then plug it back in. This worked the second time I did it, but had the same issue several times over next few days,

JVC called me this morning and said they have seen this one one other customer, but don't know what's causing it. The guy I spoke to said it seems the build is failing to spark. He also said the other user "solved" it by removing an reinserting the bulb. Mine's been OK for the last few days, but I have to notify them and try the bulb re-seat if it happens again.

Just a heads up in case you see the same. You should definitely notify JVC if you do
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Originally Posted by pippo53 View Post
Hi, I have an X5000 with about 350 hours of operation. Yesterday I turned on the VPR according to the standard procedure and after the projection of the D-ILA mark, the standby led began to flash, as when it was turned off and then it became solid red. I repeated the operation for many times but always the same result. Immediately after the wording D-ILA the led turns red flashing and after about 3 minutes becomes fixed. What can it be?
Help me! Thanks
Hi Guys,

This has started happening to me and I am a little concerned. I bought my x550r back in October used with about 1600 hours on the original lamp. Back in January I had one instance of this kind of behavior where I turn on the projector, I get a green light on front that it is starting up but the bulb doesn't light and I get the flashing red and orange lights. Then I had 5 months more of perfect performance until very recently where it seems that every night I have to go through this. Usually I just need to power it on again via the remote and it eventually starts up. Any idea what is happening here and what can be done about it? The warranty of course expired back in March so I can't try to file a claim (the original owner I bought it from offered to help should any warranty work be needed since it isn't transferrable). I had it calibrated back in January by ChadB and I don't want to lose the calibration. Would following the reset process outlined by @laugsbach above wipe my calibration? Looking for help here...
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post #5139 of 5693 Old 06-17-2018, 03:11 PM
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So things went from bad to worse to maybe better. Friday night my PJ lamp would not light no matter what I did. Every time I tried to power it up the light would turn green like normal but the lens would never open up and eventually the red and amber lights would start flashing. I eventually unplugged it and left it until today. I spent a good part of yesterday researching in this and the RS500/RS600 thread as a number of members there have suffered similar issues. Someone mentioned (maybe Mike Garrett) suggested re-seating the lamp. So today I first tried just plugging it back in and trying to start it again as usual but once again it would not light. So then I got my screwdriver, pulled out the lamp and confirmed it looked fine and put it back in. This time it fired back up and I am now streaming Planet Earth II from Netflix. Hooray for now and we will see how long this lasts.


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post #5140 of 5693 Old 06-27-2018, 01:49 PM
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Signal dropouts with Apple TV 4K

I'm having a frustrating problem with my RS400 and an Apple TV 4K. I've been trying to troubleshoot this for a while but so far I haven't hit on a solution, though I've narrowed it down. I'll summarize here.

JVC RS400 projector, Sony STR-DN1080 receiver. Sources include Apple TV 4K, Oppo UDP-203, Dune Solo 4K. All sources are connected to the receiver with high-speed 6-foot HDMI cables.

An 11-year-old 25-foot Monoprice non-high-speed HDMI cable, run from the receiver to the projector, works fine with all content and all sources, but it won’t pass 4:4:4 so all sources have to be configured for 4:2:0.

A new 25-foot Monoprice high-speed HDMI cable passes 4:4:4 and works fine with all sources except the Apple TV. With the ATV there are intermittent signal dropouts and glitches regardless of content. It happens with 4:4:4 and 4:2:0, it happens with HDR and SDR, it happens with 2160p and 1080p and 720p.

Replacing the 25-foot new Monoprice cable with a 6-foot new Monoprice between the receiver and the projector does not solve the problem. The same dropouts are seen (so the cable length and the cable itself seem not to be issues here).

But running a new cable directly from the Apple TV to the projector, bypassing the Sony receiver entirely, eliminates the problem. Unfortunately that’s not a practical solution because I need the switching and audio decoding that the receiver provides.

I have a “Genius Bar” appointment scheduled with Apple to ask about this but I think it’s unlikely they’ll be able to reproduce the problem without my unique device configuration. I’d like to just try a new unit in case mine is a little flakey, but Apple won’t do that.

If someone here has suggestions about how to proceed, I'd appreciate the advice. Using 4:2:0 instead of 4:4:4 isn’t horrible but it’s not the best, and it really shouldn’t be necessary.

Thanks.

Ron Gomes
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post #5141 of 5693 Old 06-27-2018, 02:02 PM
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But running a new cable directly from the Apple TV to the projector, bypassing the Sony receiver entirely, eliminates the problem. Unfortunately that’s not a practical solution because I need the switching and audio decoding that the receiver provides.



.

It sounds to me like your receiver is not sending a strong enough signal to the projector. If you are able to check with another receiver that would likely tell you.



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post #5142 of 5693 Old 06-27-2018, 08:47 PM
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It sounds to me like your receiver is not sending a strong enough signal to the projector. If you are able to check with another receiver that would likely tell you.
The problem is unique to the Apple TV, though. Every other source, switched through the receiver, is fine.

I also tried placing an HDMI repeater in the signal path but to no avail. I tried placing it between the Apple TV and the receiver, at the output of the receiver, and at the projector input. No change.

Unfortunately I don’t have access to other equipment that I can swap in, which makes it hard to pin the blame precisely.

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post #5143 of 5693 Old 06-27-2018, 09:11 PM
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One other thing to try would be a cable with a n active chipset. According to Monoprice “Active Chipset: The active chipset individually regenerates and balances the three video signal elements, giving the cable the ability to transmit High Speed HDMI signals over longer distances, using thinner gauge conductors than passive HDMI cables.” I would look at their latest Dynamic View cable to see if that will help prevent the dropouts you are experiencing https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=14131


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post #5144 of 5693 Old 06-28-2018, 04:19 AM
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Originally Posted by rrg View Post
I'm having a frustrating problem with my RS400 and an Apple TV 4K. I've been trying to troubleshoot this for a while but so far I haven't hit on a solution, though I've narrowed it down. I'll summarize here.

JVC RS400 projector, Sony STR-DN1080 receiver. Sources include Apple TV 4K, Oppo UDP-203, Dune Solo 4K. All sources are connected to the receiver with high-speed 6-foot HDMI cables.

An 11-year-old 25-foot Monoprice non-high-speed HDMI cable, run from the receiver to the projector, works fine with all content and all sources, but it won’t pass 4:4:4 so all sources have to be configured for 4:2:0.

A new 25-foot Monoprice high-speed HDMI cable passes 4:4:4 and works fine with all sources except the Apple TV. With the ATV there are intermittent signal dropouts and glitches regardless of content. It happens with 4:4:4 and 4:2:0, it happens with HDR and SDR, it happens with 2160p and 1080p and 720p.

Replacing the 25-foot new Monoprice cable with a 6-foot new Monoprice between the receiver and the projector does not solve the problem. The same dropouts are seen (so the cable length and the cable itself seem not to be issues here).

But running a new cable directly from the Apple TV to the projector, bypassing the Sony receiver entirely, eliminates the problem. Unfortunately that’s not a practical solution because I need the switching and audio decoding that the receiver provides.

I have a “Genius Bar” appointment scheduled with Apple to ask about this but I think it’s unlikely they’ll be able to reproduce the problem without my unique device configuration. I’d like to just try a new unit in case mine is a little flakey, but Apple won’t do that.

If someone here has suggestions about how to proceed, I'd appreciate the advice. Using 4:2:0 instead of 4:4:4 isn’t horrible but it’s not the best, and it really shouldn’t be necessary.

Thanks.
What happens if you force the apple tv to 4k/24/4:4:4? (Which is probably the correct format for most content anyway)

Video: JVC RS4500 135" screen in pure black room no light, htpc nvidia 1080ti.
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post #5145 of 5693 Old 06-28-2018, 10:59 AM
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What happens if you force the apple tv to 4k/24/4:4:4? (Which is probably the correct format for most content anyway)
An excellent suggestion, thank you. This helped narrow down the problem a bit more.

The dropouts don't occur when the Apple TV is putting out 4K/24/4:4:4. Forcing it is not an acceptable option because I have content that's 60 Hz and 50 Hz and I want to match the frame rate and dynamic range of the source. When 60 Hz content is played and the Apple TV matches it, the dropouts return.

Also (though much less important), doing this creates an unappealing stutter on the Apple TV's home screen and menus.

The problem is still unique to the Apple TV, though. I did establish that when the Oppo is forced to 60 Hz, or when it plays 60 Hz content, there is no dropout issue.

So the problem occurs only with the Apple TV, only when it's putting out 60 Hz video, and only when it's switched through the Sony receiver (24 Hz is fine, 60 Hz direct to the projector is fine).

Ron Gomes
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post #5146 of 5693 Old 06-28-2018, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Hawks07 View Post
As far as I know there is no firmware fix for this. Some people say that turning off CMD fixes it but it is off in my unit and I still have the problem.
Hmm. I had this exact problem myself, and turning off CMD (which my installer had left on) fixed it completely.

Ron Gomes
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post #5147 of 5693 Old 06-28-2018, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by rrg View Post
So the problem occurs only with the Apple TV, only when it's putting out 60 Hz video, and only when it's switched through the Sony receiver (24 Hz is fine, 60 Hz direct to the projector is fine).
I took the unit to Apple. They did some tests and said that they did indeed see some "anomalies" in the video output compared with a properly functioning unit.

They're going to exchange mine. They had no units on hand but they've ordered one and will call me when it's in. I'll report back when I've done the swap. I hope that will be the end of the problem. We'll see.

Ron Gomes
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post #5148 of 5693 Old 06-29-2018, 05:45 PM
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What is a good mount setup for this projector and a good place to get it?
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post #5149 of 5693 Old 06-30-2018, 07:26 PM
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What is a good mount setup for this projector and a good place to get it?


Chief mounts are usually recommended around here but I am using this one and it works fine https://www.amazon.com/Peerless-PRGS...erless+prg-unv


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post #5150 of 5693 Old 07-01-2018, 10:11 AM
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What is a good mount setup for this projector and a good place to get it?
Could also build a box, never have to buy a mount ever again. Build a box out of 3/4" plywood, I used cabinet grade Oak Plywood sold at Home Depot or Lowes. Mine is 15" X 24" X 24". Painted the box the same color as the room

---As a display dealer I am not going to be swapping plates and mount's forever
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post #5151 of 5693 Old 07-02-2018, 02:40 PM
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Projector won't zoom in...HELP!!!

Hi All,

So my projector was working perfectly but it was slightly off on the screen, so naturally I had to mess with it

I sadly discovered that I can zoom out by pressing the down arrow (smaller picture), but can't zoom in by pressing the up arrow (bigger picture). Thus my picture no longer fills my screen!

The remote is working fine. The up arrow works on focus and shift, but not on zoom, so it appears something has gone screwy in the zoom motor or logic. In any case, I do not change screen sizes. The picture has been set at the same size since setup, so not like it is overused.

Is there any way to manually adjust the zoom from the outside before we break it open to get to it from the inside?

Any thoughts as to why or how this happened? Any ideas to fix are welcomed. It is not jammed as it will zoom out freely.

Thanks for the help.

Darren
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post #5152 of 5693 Old 07-02-2018, 06:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cleveland Plasma View Post
Could also build a box, never have to buy a mount ever again. Build a box out of 3/4" plywood, I used cabinet grade Oak Plywood sold at Home Depot or Lowes. Mine is 15" X 24" X 24". Painted the box the same color as the room

---As a display dealer I am not going to be swapping plates and mount's forever
We use the Chief mounts and just keep the custom plate for the JVC, Sony and Epson. Then if a customer wants to see a different projector, we can quickly switch out. Only projector that does not get switched out is the RS4500, too big and heavy to be changing it.
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post #5153 of 5693 Old 07-04-2018, 08:11 AM
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post #5154 of 5693 Old 07-05-2018, 04:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cleveland Plasma View Post
Could also build a box, never have to buy a mount ever again. Build a box out of 3/4" plywood, I used cabinet grade Oak Plywood sold at Home Depot or Lowes. Mine is 15" X 24" X 24". Painted the box the same color as the room

---As a display dealer I am not going to be swapping plates and mount's forever
Yep, this is the same as I did. Projectors just slide in and out no more mounts to deal with.

Video: JVC RS4500 135" screen in pure black room no light, htpc nvidia 1080ti.
Audio: Anthem mrx720 running 7.1.4, McIntosh MC-303, MC-152, B&W 802d3 LR, B&W HTM1D3 center, B&W 805d3 surround, B&W 702S2 rear, B&W 706s2 x 4 shelf mounted for atmos, 2 sub arrays both infinite baffle: 4x15 fi audio running on behringer ep4000 + 4x12 fi audio running on 2nd ep4000.
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post #5155 of 5693 Old 07-05-2018, 04:42 AM
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Originally Posted by darkwing327 View Post
Hi All,

So my projector was working perfectly but it was slightly off on the screen, so naturally I had to mess with it

I sadly discovered that I can zoom out by pressing the down arrow (smaller picture), but can't zoom in by pressing the up arrow (bigger picture). Thus my picture no longer fills my screen!

The remote is working fine. The up arrow works on focus and shift, but not on zoom, so it appears something has gone screwy in the zoom motor or logic. In any case, I do not change screen sizes. The picture has been set at the same size since setup, so not like it is overused.

Is there any way to manually adjust the zoom from the outside before we break it open to get to it from the inside?

Any thoughts as to why or how this happened? Any ideas to fix are welcomed. It is not jammed as it will zoom out freely.

Thanks for the help.

Darren
Tried the buttons on the projector itself rather than the remote?

Video: JVC RS4500 135" screen in pure black room no light, htpc nvidia 1080ti.
Audio: Anthem mrx720 running 7.1.4, McIntosh MC-303, MC-152, B&W 802d3 LR, B&W HTM1D3 center, B&W 805d3 surround, B&W 702S2 rear, B&W 706s2 x 4 shelf mounted for atmos, 2 sub arrays both infinite baffle: 4x15 fi audio running on behringer ep4000 + 4x12 fi audio running on 2nd ep4000.
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post #5156 of 5693 Old 07-05-2018, 06:41 AM
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Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
Tried the buttons on the projector itself rather than the remote?
Yes sir, no luck unfortunately.

So now I am at the point of just needing it back to full zoom once more and it will stay there forever. Not under warranty, so time to break it open and see what we can see
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post #5157 of 5693 Old 07-05-2018, 11:08 AM
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Yes sir, no luck unfortunately.

So now I am at the point of just needing it back to full zoom once more and it will stay there forever. Not under warranty, so time to break it open and see what we can see
Yikes! Sorry.

Does it make noise and just not move? (mechanical problem) or does it make no noise at all? (electronic problem)

Keep up informed on how it goes, feel free to take pics
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post #5158 of 5693 Old 07-08-2018, 03:30 PM
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I've had my RS400 for nearly 3 years but finally got an HDMI 2.0 receiver two weeks ago. Bought a few UHD Blu-Rays for my Xbox One S and they look pretty great, but I seem to be losing dark detail.
In the Xbox One "Calibrate TV" section, I cannot see the closed eye. The last two black bars and last two white bars are indistinguishable regardless of the brightness setting on the RS400.

I've tried setting the colorspace of the Xbox to both "Standard" and "PC RGB". So I don't think that is the issue. I also turned on the "Allow 4:2:2" setting and the RS400 sees YUV now, but still the closed eye is not visible. The colorspace is set to auto on the RS400.
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post #5159 of 5693 Old 07-08-2018, 03:48 PM
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I've had my RS400 for nearly 3 years but finally got an HDMI 2.0 receiver two weeks ago. Bought a few UHD Blu-Rays for my Xbox One S and they look pretty great, but I seem to be losing dark detail.
That will happen if you use the default “Gamma D” for UHD.
Increasing the Dark Levels control helps, but ideally you need to catch up with 3 years’ discussions on custom curves.
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post #5160 of 5693 Old 07-09-2018, 08:56 AM
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That will happen if you use the default “Gamma D” for UHD.
Increasing the Dark Levels control helps, but ideally you need to catch up with 3 years’ discussions on custom curves.
Yeah I was afraid of that. Is there a summary somewhere? I purchased a USB to Serial cable last week already preemptively. I have not bought a colorimeter yet. The Spyder5 Pro isn't terribly expensive, but would rather not buy one if I don't have to. Just because of the ridiculous amount of time I know I will spend with it.

Oh and reading a few posts back, I have run into the crazy colors twice now and had to power cycle the RS400. With my HTPC in HDR mode (4k59.94p 10bpc 4:2:0), and starting my live TV app (HD Home Run), it goes berserk.

And yes the ridiculous amount of time the projector takes to rsync the HDMI signal during resolution or color mode switching is really really annoying. Especially when it takes longer than the PC gives you to accept.

I have not updated to the v83_2 firmware yet, but would be surprised if it helped.
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