For DHCP to work the projector needs to be connected to a DHCP server, which can be your router (can be through the switch), or your PC if you run the server software on it.

i did look in the network setting and it says under network properties IP Assignment: Automatic(DHCP)

you think that qualifies?

i figured i wouldn't have to really mess with that

i may try looking in the router front end and see what i can mess with there i guess.

For it to work the projector still needs to be connected to a DHCP Server.

If you use manual IP assignment you do not need a server. In either case, you need to enter the same IP address in the Autocal software, as what the projector is using.

ok i think i just dont really know what a server actually is. i just have a 'normal' router/switch setup.

im gonna try again going direct

thanks.

A normal router will include the DHCP and is the easier way to connect.

If you connect direct you have to manually assign an IP address to the projector, and also enter the same address in the autocal software.

ok, a member pointed out that i should have a green light come on when i connect the Ethernet cable.

i am not having that light come on. i only have the yellow light. so i am thinking its that port that is bad. i am pretty sure im out of warranty and im guessing it would not be worth it to try and have someone look at it.

so i guess my next question would be: without that BT.2020 file, what am i missing or is it crucial to 4K?

I saw those deals. The 420 is an excellent deal.
Almost anything works, if you shut off the SDR2020 and go back to the old way of watching with Gamma D or a Custom Curve, you'll see how massive of a difference it really makes.
Yes. I have a feeling it shows HDR if it is receiving a BT2020 signal, that is my guess.

Do you have a network cable tester? I always assume I screwed something up or my configuration is wrong or my cables are wrong before anything else. I do find it highly unlikely the network jack is just dead on the projector. It's possible, but I'd be sure to rule out everything else. Test everything. Also, switches do not assign IP addresses, only routers do. If your laptop has an Ethernet connector, shut off WiFi and try to get internet through the cable/ports you're using for the projector. Test EVERYTHING.
Required.

Connecting through the router is what I suggest. It is easier and will eliminate configuration issues, but you gotta get it to see the router. Pretty sure the light staying orange means it doesn't think it is connected to anything, which indicates a cable/connection issues. Make certain the cable works and connect it directly into a ROUTER.

I believe the green led only comes on when communication is established. Lack of it does not necessarily indicate a bad port.

Hi, yes i do have a tester and with the laptop i used a store bought cable. i made the cable after i couldn't connect with the laptop. i used the made up cable to connect to the closest desktop(about 20ft away). i did shut off wifi on the laptop. when i first connected the laptop and tested the connection with the software it took at least a minute to say 'Connect NG' or whatever. once i shut the wifi off it says 'Connect NG' right away.


i will try your suggestion to connect the projector to my router, but im a tad confused now. that means i use DHCP ON? how will i know it sees the router?

ok, i hope so. thanks

Thanks for the info. This upgrade definitely shows how well the rs400 was handling Blu-ray discs. Watching in 4K with the Panny 420 and BT. 2020 looks great, just not a world changer. I might be able to do some back and forth between Blu-ray and 4K with the same movie and notice more improvement. No plans to upgrade this projector, though!

Yes, if you’re connecting to the router turn on DHCP.

ok i have the projector plugged in to port 4 on the router.

i still have only the yellow light on the pj, no green

i have no lights on the router on port 4

i ran the obtain ip address with failure


if i take the cable out of the pj and plug into laptop, i get internet and lights on port 4 on the router.

its like the port on the pj is off or disabled. is there a setting that im missing to turn it on?

What I said previously about the green light is incorrect. I just checked mine and the green light comes on as soon as there is a connection, regardless of the IP address.

I’m not aware of any option to disable/enable the port. Some people had to physically disconnect the power cord after powering down the projector, wait a minute and then restart the projector, before communications could be established. However, I’m not sure if their green light was off.

thanks for checking that. i might unplug it and leave it overnight and try one more time in the morning. if it doesn't work i think im gonna give up.

Looks like it would be easier, if you directly connect your PC or notebook via ethernet cable with your projector.
Just give both a different IP address but within the same subnet.

PC:
IP Address: 192.168.1.100
Subnet Mask: 255.255.255.0

Projector:
IP Address: 192.168.1.101
Subnet Mask: 255.255.255.0

don't care about the rest (Gateway, DNS, ...)

Then enter the IP address of the projector in the Autocal software and you should be done.

If you connect direct, shut off WiFi to ensure your PC is looking in the right spot. Make sure the Subnet Mask is the same. The setting above are a good recommendation.

Ok, watched “Annihilation” last night in UHD on the Panny 420. I did use the DI (black level is a top priority in my black cave) and iris -3 or so, but switched to high lamp (my lamp has almost 3000 hours, time to start planning) and had HD optimizer on, and the dynamic range conversion adjustment to +7 (I have a big scope screen)

The verdict was that it was the best image I’ve seen from the rs400, with a total minimum of fuss. Could it be better? Maybe. Would I notice? Not sure.

I saw you were involved in the big custom curves thread with the wip/wip branch, Arve stuff a while ago. Is your conclusion that the SDR/BT2020/Panny solution pretty much 90+% of the way there with pretty much zero effort? Any use in looking at custom curves? I’m perfectly happy running my Roku+ at 4K/60hz and not doing HDR for Netflix, etc.

Thx!

If your HDR viewing is based on UHD discs there’s no need for custom curves. The Panasonic essentially gives you tunable custom curves.

Custom curves allow you to watch HDR from any source.

100%. I was one of the only people actually admitting how terrible the RSxxx projectors looked with custom curves and I got banned for 2 weeks because of it. Truth is painful sometimes.
I recommend loading JAVS V3 for those times you need to stream something. Luckily I've been able to mostly avoid it.

I knew in 2016 something was very wrong with the way HDR looked on the JVC projectors. It took about 2 years for everyone else to catch up. Once Tone Mapping rolled out on the Oppo player it was obvious to me it was the solution. When the 820 was available (before the 420 was announced) I bought it right away and loudly proclaimed it as the solution for disc content on the RSxxx projectors.

Now, even JVC has rolled out projectors with Tone Mapping built in, pretty much proving static curves were not going to cut it. Apparently the new JVC projectors use Dynamic Tone Mapping which is even better than what the 420/820/9000 can do, and it works on every single source. Obviously it will be my next projector but I'll likely wait for the next version...the RS400 still has more life, if streaming looked as good as discs from the 420/820, I'd probably keep it even longer.

Technically the Panasonic tone mapping is still static. It selects one curve (for each movie) based on the metadata and sticks with it for the entire movie, even if the metadata applies only to a one-second highlight in the movie.

So quick question for you guys I have to oppo 203 on the jvc rs400 and wondering at the sale price of 150 if it would be worth it to buy the Panasonic 420 for the optimizer and run 2 players in the rack

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100% yes. Once you see how good the UB420 looks when configured the way I recommend, you'll be selling the Oppo.

Thanks Dreamliner, was going to ask the same for ub820 vs my ub900 setup with some Arve curves. Great price at $150

Couldnt find the edit button, sorry referring to ub420 of course

Thanks that's what I was hoping to hear. Also good news is my buddy actually bought me one yesterday as a thank you gift for helping him on his first theater build. Allready got the hdmi cable on the way. I'll be getting all your settings plugged in this weekend. I'm pretty excited to see what the image will look like.

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I just got a HDFury Integral at great price, now I’ll be using same techniques posted here for HDR, both 4K discs and streaming Netflix/ other.

Timely recent discussions, so I’ll read and apply that knowledge.
I may ask for help still






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I bought a Roku Ultra last week to use with my JVC RS400. Installed last night and ran into a issue. I have a anamorphic lens and would like to keep using it with the Roku but cannot access the anamorphic modes on the JVC when using the Roku... grayed out. Is there a way to get the picture to go full frame when streaming from a Roku, or will I have to move the lens out of the way? If the Roku can't do this, then is there another relatively inexpensive device with streaming and 4k/HDR that will allow me to keep using the anamorphic lens with the JVC? I've been dragging the kids Playstation 4 into the room to use with Disney Plus (no Disney Plus on PS3), so might just have to buy another PS4 for the theater room since it works with the anamorphic lens.

^^ AppleTV


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