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post #1711 of 2036 Old 02-02-2018, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by bilsky805 View Post
I recently purchased this projector. I noticed one flaw which I opened up with Sony tech support. When operating on low power mode I receive a flicker in the dimness, so much that the only option to correct this is turning it to high power mode. After receiving a call from tech support the gentlemen knew of this exact issue. Stating the 1800 Lumens is not enough for low power mode.

Currently I leave this on high and never see an issue. I just turn the brightness down a bit. Only problem as we all know, this will shorten the life of the bulb. I feel like for a projector of this price, this shouldn't happen.
I kept mine on High the entire time with no issues and it was still plenty bright after 1,100+ hrs. I have since upgraded to the 885ES however, so bulb life and brightness is no longer a concern of mine fortunately.

Enjoy your 675. It's still an excellent projector.
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post #1712 of 2036 Old 02-02-2018, 06:40 PM
 
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The Official Sony VPL-VW550ES/ VPL-VW675ES Owners Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by bilsky805 View Post
I recently purchased this projector. I noticed one flaw which I opened up with Sony tech support. When operating on low power mode I receive a flicker in the dimness, so much that the only option to correct this is turning it to high power mode. After receiving a call from tech support the gentlemen knew of this exact issue. Stating the 1800 Lumens is not enough for low power mode.



Currently I leave this on high and never see an issue. I just turn the brightness down a bit. Only problem as we all know, this will shorten the life of the bulb. I feel like for a projector of this price, this shouldn't happen.

One thing to consider also is that you don't want to use the brightness control to lower overall light output of the projector. That is to be used to set the proper black level for the video signal as is contrast on the other end for whites. You want to use the iris Control in the menu to adjust total light output of the projector.
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post #1713 of 2036 Old 02-11-2018, 01:44 PM
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If you watch HDR, seriously consider grabbing the Oppo 203 or 205. With the new beta software, there are now 4 customizable HDR to SDR curves that can be better than the Sony HDR slider control (#2 at 200nits looks great on most disks on my 110" Firehawk 1.3 gain screen). Plus you can use low lamp if your screen size allows it...great black level for me, and less noise from the projector! Don't be concerned about losing anything converting HDR to SDR, other than lousy/dark pictures, as you still get 10 or 12 bit 2020 color space, if available.

Like seeing many scenes on HDR disks for the first time.

I also own the Samsung and Sony UHD players, now used for streaming, though it seems the Sony outputs Netflix and Amazon HDR at 8 bits only, regardless of using 60 or 24 Hz settings. I haven't played with this much yet or tested the Samsung streaming. The Oppo has an HDMI in, so you can convert the streamed signal from the other players from HDR to SDR also.

The Oppo remote is great! Not at all like the trash Sony and Samsung sell you. The info button on the Oppo tells you all you want to know about both the incoming or recorded signal, and the output signal...very helpful.

Hope this helps someone.

Paul

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post #1714 of 2036 Old 02-11-2018, 02:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PBonn View Post
If you watch HDR, seriously consider grabbing the Oppo 203 or 205. With the new beta software, there are now 4 customizable HDR to SDR curves that can be better than the Sony HDR slider control (#2 at 200nits looks great on most disks on my 110" Firehawk 1.3 gain screen). Plus you can use low lamp if your screen size allows it...great black level for me, and less noise from the projector! Don't be concerned about losing anything converting HDR to SDR, other than lousy/dark pictures, as you still get 10 or 12 bit 2020 color space, if available.

Like seeing many scenes on HDR disks for the first time.

I also own the Samsung and Sony UHD players, now used for streaming, though it seems the Sony outputs Netflix and Amazon HDR at 8 bits only, regardless of using 60 or 24 Hz settings. I haven't played with this much yet or tested the Samsung streaming. The Oppo has an HDMI in, so you can convert the streamed signal from the other players from HDR to SDR also.

The Oppo remote is great! Not at all like the trash Sony and Samsung sell you. The info button on the Oppo tells you all you want to know about both the incoming or recorded signal, and the output signal...very helpful.

Hope this helps someone.

Paul
Hmm, yes I have heard about it. I feel a bit burnt on the oppos after the 103 though (really poor quality laser assembly on the Au model - and I have not been able to find any information on the assembly they have in the 20x series - I can't find any teardowns, replacement parts), plus hearing playback issues people have.
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post #1715 of 2036 Old 02-20-2018, 03:36 PM
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BTW, does anyone here run the custom gamma curves they have been using on the new models, the 285/260 385/360? Or isn't is possible on the 675/550? I've searched the thread and noone mentions it. The German forum I THINK seems to have a few posts in the project indicating some people were using it: http://www.hifi-forum.de/viewthread-94-15173-5.html But I don't see anything mentioned here.

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post #1716 of 2036 Old 02-21-2018, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by MOberhardt View Post
BTW, does anyone here run the custom gamma curves they have been using on the new models, the 285/260 385/360? Or isn't is possible on the 675/550? I've searched the thread and noone mentions it. The German forum I THINK seems to have a few posts in the project indicating some people were using it: http://www.hifi-forum.de/viewthread-94-15173-5.html But I don't see anything mentioned here.
Hi.
I tried the German curves on my 550 and they do improve matters considerably. Including the reduction (but not elimination of banding).
I found gamma 8 to be the best for most situations, and although gammas 9 and 10 can blow out highlights (probably due to the extra brightness of the 550 over the 260/360), they do make things like lights look far more intense.
Play around and use whichever looks best for you.

I just hate the fact you have to disable HDR to get effective HDR. I would much rather choose my preferred curve and apply it to the HDR curve setting, but the software won't let you do that.
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post #1717 of 2036 Old 02-21-2018, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archibald1 View Post
Hi.
I tried the German curves on my 550 and they do improve matters considerably. Including the reduction (but not elimination of banding).
I found gamma 8 to be the best for most situations, and although gammas 9 and 10 can blow out highlights (probably due to the extra brightness of the 550 over the 260/360), they do make things like lights look far more intense.
Play around and use whichever looks best for you.

I just hate the fact you have to disable HDR to get effective HDR. I would much rather choose my preferred curve and apply it to the HDR curve setting, but the software won't let you do that.
Thanks for responding. I wonder how hard it it tweaking your own to more suit the higher brightness. I just have the chance of getting a no-hour used 550/675 (a DOA unit with a replaced board from a service agent) for the same price as a 360 and am trying to decide if I'll get it.
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post #1718 of 2036 Old 02-21-2018, 01:34 PM
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Can I trouble you Sony HDR projector owners with something real quick? When you play the Mad Max Fury Road opening scene in HDR mode, do you see blue(ish) pixels, something like this (maybe slightly more faint)?



I'm seeing those both on my Sony 4K HDR flat panel display, and also when using madVR's HDR -> SDR conversion. But reportedly JVC users don't seem to see these. So I'm trying to gather some more data, if this is likely to be an encoding error, or a tone mapping algorithm problem.
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post #1719 of 2036 Old 02-21-2018, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by MOberhardt View Post
Thanks for responding. I wonder how hard it it tweaking your own to more suit the higher brightness. I just have the chance of getting a no-hour used 550/675 (a DOA unit with a replaced board from a service agent) for the same price as a 360 and am trying to decide if I'll get it.
If the 550 has a good warranty then I would go for it, if the same cost as a 360.
I didn’t bother even thinking about tweaking the curves as I found they were very effective as-is.
Now with the Oppo firmware giving an alternative, I may use that once the firmware goes mainstream.
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post #1720 of 2036 Old 02-21-2018, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Archibald1 View Post
If the 550 has a good warranty then I would go for it, if the same cost as a 360.
I didn’t bother even thinking about tweaking the curves as I found they were very effective as-is.
Now with the Oppo firmware giving an alternative, I may use that once the firmware goes mainstream.
Thanks. Yes, the guy is the Sony service agent for the region and will support the machine. He only does these occasionally when he gets the opportunity to buy warranty return swap machines. Honestly I think I feel a bit better getting a unit that a service agent has physically checked over and tested, than one from the factory.

I like the curve concept as it means you can get the HDR range with low lamp mode also. In a really dark room I'm not wanting to get retina burn from viewing. I was testing light spill/reflections from the screen in my room last night, with a 100 lumen torch. I was stumbling about blind after just that...

BTW, the 675/550 actually has a slower HDMI chip port than the 360/385 doesn't it? Is that 10GBPS speed vs the 13.5GBPS have any difference in real world terms for any format? Can it take a 4K/24p 12-bit 4:4:4 signal without scaling it down?

Looking at this calculator, this projector is only capable of 4k 24p 8 bit 4:4:4 without subsampling. Geez why? The one in the 385/360 will support full 4K/24p 12-bit 4:4:4.
https://www.extron.com.au/product/videotools.aspx

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post #1721 of 2036 Old 02-22-2018, 03:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MOberhardt View Post
Thanks. Yes, the guy is the Sony service agent for the region and will support the machine. He only does these occasionally when he gets the opportunity to buy warranty return swap machines. Honestly I think I feel a bit better getting a unit that a service agent has physically checked over and tested, than one from the factory.

I like the curve concept as it means you can get the HDR range with low lamp mode also. In a really dark room I'm not wanting to get retina burn from viewing. I was testing light spill/reflections from the screen in my room last night, with a 100 lumen torch. I was stumbling about blind after just that...

BTW, the 675/550 actually has a slower HDMI chip port than the 360/385 doesn't it? Is that 10GBPS speed vs the 13.5GBPS have any difference in real world terms for any format? Can it take a 4K/24p 12-bit 4:4:4 signal without scaling it down?

Looking at this calculator, this projector is only capable of 4k 24p 8 bit 4:4:4 without subsampling. Geez why? The one in the 385/360 will support full 4K/24p 12-bit 4:4:4.
https://www.extron.com.au/product/videotools.aspx
Hi.
As we discussed on the other thread the 550/675 has a 13.5Gbps HDMI interface and will accept up to 4K 12bit 4:2:0 50/60hz input signals. Incidentally that is the *only* signal it will down-sample to 8 bit internally.
*Any* input signal (1080 or 4K) of 30hz or less will be displayed in its full 4:4:4 glory.

For example, you can play 'Billy Ray Cyrus's Long Lonely Walk' on an Oppo 203 at 30hz 4K and it will display in 4:4:4 on a 550! See pic attached!

The best bit about the extra brightness of the 550 over the 260/360 is that when using the German curves in low lamp, you get the extra HDR punch from the 300 extra lumens and it actually makes them more effective in my opinion as low lamp mode on a 550 is probably not too far from high lamp on a 360.

If you can get the 550 for the price of a 360, then bite his arm off (as long as a decent warranty is provided etc)!
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post #1722 of 2036 Old 02-22-2018, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Archibald1 View Post
Hi.
As we discussed on the other thread the 550/675 has a 13.5Gbps HDMI interface and will accept up to 4K 12bit 4:2:0 50/60hz input signals. Incidentally that is the *only* signal it will down-sample to 8 bit internally.
*Any* input signal (1080 or 4K) of 30hz or less will be displayed in its full 4:4:4 glory.

For example, you can play 'Billy Ray Cyrus's Long Lonely Walk' on an Oppo 203 at 30hz 4K and it will display in 4:4:4 on a 550! See pic attached!

The best bit about the extra brightness of the 550 over the 260/360 is that when using the German curves in low lamp, you get the extra HDR punch from the 300 extra lumens and it actually makes them more effective in my opinion as low lamp mode on a 550 is probably not too far from high lamp on a 360.

If you can get the 550 for the price of a 360, then bite his arm off (as long as a decent warranty is provided etc)!
Thanks. Some great advice. I appreciate it. I've emailed him and will move ahead! I imagine that is correct on the lens too.

I did find it odd with the Banding issues I've seen mentioned on other Sony threads on Billy Ray Cyrus given the HDMI 2.0 spec for res etc. From https://hdguru.com/hdmi-2-0-what-you-need-to-know/:

Last edited by MOberhardt; 02-22-2018 at 12:19 PM.
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post #1723 of 2036 Old 02-22-2018, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by MOberhardt View Post
Thanks. Some great advice. I appreciate it. I've emailed him and will move ahead! I imagine that is correct on the lens too.

I did find it odd with the Banding issues I've seen mentioned on other Sony threads on Billy Ray Cyrus given the HDMI 2.0 spec for res etc.
No problem. The 550 is a truly great projector and the best lamp based one so far (lens quality notwithstanding).

The banding issue is not down to the HDMI bandwidth available, but deficient processing power at 4K 50 or 60hz 10 or 12bit signals.
With the German curves it is mitigated somewhat, but not completely eliminated.

Keep your frame rate below 30hz (if possible) and it won't be an issue.
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post #1724 of 2036 Old 02-22-2018, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by MOberhardt View Post
I find those data rates curious, however as the article mentioned, the signal itself is only part of the story.
If the video signal didn't need error correction etc then the bandwidth mentioned would be sufficient, but it is required and as such the overhead needed is actually an intrinsic part of the video signal sent over the wire. Hence requiring more bandwidth than the base video signal.

If 4k 60hz 12bit 4:2:2 only needs 12.02Gbps of bandwidth then the 260, 360 and 550 should be able to accept that signal within the 13.5Gbps available.
However, they simply will not accept that signal and the best they will accept is 4k 60hz 12bit 4:2:0, which by the chart above should be well within the specs, not at the top end of it.
This is down sampled to 8 bit so the processor used inside can cope with that frame rate at that resolution and hence the 12 bit info is squeezed into an 8 bit colour depth and thus banding ensues.

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Originally Posted by Archibald1 View Post
I find those data rates curious, however as the article mentioned, the signal itself is only part of the story.
If the video signal didn't need error correction etc then the bandwidth mentioned would be sufficient, but it is required and as such the overhead needed is actually an intrinsic part of the video signal sent over the wire. Hence requiring more bandwidth than the base video signal.

If 4k 60hz 12bit 4:2:2 only needs 12.02Gbps of bandwidth then the 260, 360 and 550 should be able to accept that signal within the 13.5Gbps available.
However, they simply will not accept that signal and the best they will accept is 4k 60hz 12bit 4:2:0, which by the chart above should be well within the specs, not at the top end of it.
This is down sampled to 8 bit so the processor used inside can cope with that frame rate at that resolution and hence the 12 bit info is squeezed into an 8 bit colour depth and thus banding ensues.

From what I've read the data is stored on uhd 4k 60hz 10bit 4:2:0, so that would be well under. The Pana has a setting to set 4k 60 output to 4:2:0 I believe. So the projectors don't process it at that bandwidth? Do they internally up it to 4k 60 8 4:4:4? And that has to be below the 13.5gbps?
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post #1726 of 2036 Old 02-22-2018, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by MOberhardt View Post
From what I've read the data is stored on uhd 4k 60hz 10bit 4:2:0, so that would be well under. The Pana has a setting to set 4k 60 output to 4:2:0 I believe. So the projectors don't process it at that bandwidth? Do they internally up it to 4k 60 8 4:4:4? And that has to be below the 13.5gbps?
Hi.
The bandwidth is not the issue.
It is just the processor struggles over 30hz @ 4k with 10 or 12bit and thus downsamples to 8 bit.
That is it. Nothing more.
Most UHD Blu-rays are also 24hz and therefore the processor copes fine with that.

If you set the Panny to 4:2:0 it will only output 8bit colour.
It needs to be in Deep colour 12bit priority, 24hz to auto and 4K 4:4:4 if you want the best picture.

Don’t worry about it. If you don’t need or watch at 4K 50/60hz in 10 or 12bit colour then you won’t even see any banding.

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post #1727 of 2036 Old 02-22-2018, 02:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archibald1 View Post
Hi.
The bandwidth is not the issue.
It is just the processor struggles over 30hz @ 4k with 10 or 12bit and thus downsamples to 8 bit.
That is it. Nothing more.
Most UHD Blu-rays are also 24hz and therefore the processor copes fine with that.

If you set the Panny to 4:2:0 it will only output 8bit colour.
It needs to be in Deep colour 12bit priority, 24hz to auto and 4K 4:4:4 if you want the best picture.

Don’t worry about it. If you don’t need or watch at 4K 50/60hz in 10 or 12bit colour then you won’t even see any banding.

OK thanks, that clears it up and makes sense. So leave the Pana on the 4:4:4 setting then.
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Originally Posted by MOberhardt View Post
Thanks. Some great advice. I appreciate it. I've emailed him and will move ahead! I imagine that is correct on the lens too.

I did find it odd with the Banding issues I've seen mentioned on other Sony threads on Billy Ray Cyrus given the HDMI 2.0 spec for res etc. From https://hdguru.com/hdmi-2-0-what-you-need-to-know/:
Finally you decide on something, the end of an era!

That chart is confusing to read, we need to divide those bit rate numbers by 3, they are listing total cable bit rate. Thats not really the correct way to communicate it.



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Finally you decide on something, the end of an era!

That chart is confusing to read, we need to divide those bit rate numbers by 3, they are listing total cable bit rate. That's not really the correct way to communicate it.
Hah hah! Yes, sorry everyone everywhere for all the questions... Other than on houses, I've not shelled out this sort of money for anything... It is a huge psychological leap for me, especially more or less sight unseen...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archibald1 View Post
The best bit about the extra brightness of the 550 over the 260/360 is that when using the German curves in low lamp, you get the extra HDR punch from the 300 extra lumens and it actually makes them more effective in my opinion as low lamp mode on a 550 is probably not too far from high lamp on a 360.
I didn't save my 285es lumen measurements but oddly, the 550/675 measurements I took were 1670 high and 1050 low. If I remember I thought the 285 was around 1350 high and 950 low but this is off top of my head and perhaps the settings on the image were different. I used cinema 1 for both projecting a white image. (I usually measure every couple months to track bulb decay). The point is, however, that the low feels about the same (maybe a tiny brighter) on the 675 vs 285/385 while high is much brighter on the 675 vs 285/385.

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post #1732 of 2036 Old 02-22-2018, 03:45 PM
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^What about a car?
Actually no. I honestly ride a pushbike everywhere. We do have a car we use occasionally, a classic I bought that and did a ground up restoration, so wouldn't have paid more than bit by bit, parts , jobs etc... The only time I've actually driven in the last few years is taking pets to visit the vet...

Just another question on the banding. Why can you notice it with the color being 8 bit, when blu rays are 8 bit and you don't notice it on that.
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post #1733 of 2036 Old 02-23-2018, 02:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MOberhardt View Post
Actually no. I honestly ride a pushbike everywhere. We do have a car we use occasionally, a classic I bought that and did a ground up restoration, so wouldn't have paid more than bit by bit, parts , jobs etc... The only time I've actually driven in the last few years is taking pets to visit the vet...

Just another question on the banding. Why can you notice it with the color being 8 bit, when blu rays are 8 bit and you don't notice it on that.
Hi.
That is because on 8 bit native there is no colour information lost (8bit is fully displayed as 8bit) and the projector also has a smooth gradation function to help it out with SD sources.

When you put an HDR signal at 10 or 12 bits and squeeze it into 8 bits in one step, then lots colour information is lost and limitations of the processor means that steps in large areas of similar colour are seen.

Also, crucially as these can only accept 4:2:0 at 50 or 60hz in 10 or 12bit colour, then the source cannot help out in any way with up-sampling the chroma, (e.g by sending 4:2:2) which in the case of these particular models, means the on-board processor has to do it and it can't cope without discarding lots of colour data so it can keep up with the frame rate.

Keep it below 30hz and it is a non issue.
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post #1734 of 2036 Old 02-24-2018, 06:34 AM
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@MOberhardt
Here is an explanation from Force User on these forums, that better illustrates why banding occurs when 10 bit is squeezed into 8bit:


8bit is enough for SDR, as SDR has a smaller range of brightness level. ("steps")
HDR needs at least 10bit to be banding free.
Why? Because HDR, as the name itself tells us, has a wider gap between the darkest and brightest shades of color.

Example:
SDR: Black is value 1, peak White is value 256 -> 256 steps (8bit)
HDR: Black is value 1, peak white is value 1024 -> 1024 steps (10bit)
-> The HDR signal is meant do be displayed with a much higher max. brightness.

if you convert the 1024 steps from HDR to only 256 steps, there are just not enough steps for a banding free picture, because the projector still thinks he needs to apply the HDR gamma curve which is intended to work with 1024 steps...therefore, if you have like 4 shades with 10bit, you only have 1 shade left for the same area with a downconverted 8bit HDR signal...

In short:
- SDR has limited brightness = limited dynamic range from black to white, this is why 8bit / 256 steps are enough
- HDR: has an increased dynamic range, therefore need more steps (1024 / 10 bit)
if you try to display the same range of brightness (HDR) with only 256 shades, you will see the missing steps...

Graphic example
SDR Dynmaic range:
........
HDR Dynamic range:
................................
if you downconvert HDR to 8bit this is whats left:
........
but unfortunately, the display still wants to show HDR:
-------------------------
See that the steps are wider

I hope either the technical or the more vivid graphical explanation shows the point
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post #1735 of 2036 Old 02-24-2018, 02:17 PM
 
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The Official Sony VPL-VW550ES/ VPL-VW675ES Owners Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by madshi View Post
Can I trouble you Sony HDR projector owners with something real quick? When you play the Mad Max Fury Road opening scene in HDR mode, do you see blue(ish) pixels, something like this (maybe slightly more faint)?







I'm seeing those both on my Sony 4K HDR flat panel display, and also when using madVR's HDR -> SDR conversion. But reportedly JVC users don't seem to see these. So I'm trying to gather some more data, if this is likely to be an encoding error, or a tone mapping algorithm problem.

I recall seeing something similar when I was watching Planet Earth II. The scene with the bear inside the cave surrounded by snow. I "think" that was when I was using the 365 or 675ES that I had here at the time, but it could've also been the Epson 5040, LS10000 or LS10500. I'll see if I can find the post I made here asking about it which should be in the respective projector thread to reveal which one it was. I don't have time now, but I'll try to search later, or someone else can. Good luck and let me know any findings!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Archibald1 View Post
Hi.

I tried the German curves on my 550 and they do improve matters considerably. Including the reduction (but not elimination of banding).

I found gamma 8 to be the best for most situations, and although gammas 9 and 10 can blow out highlights (probably due to the extra brightness of the 550 over the 260/360), they do make things like lights look far more intense.

Play around and use whichever looks best for you.



I just hate the fact you have to disable HDR to get effective HDR. I would much rather choose my preferred curve and apply it to the HDR curve setting, but the software won't let you do that.

I found that it is more a combination of the Mode (1,2,3,4) and the peak nits selection that takes care of blowing out the highlights. What I do is pause on a scene like a very bright sky with clouds, then I step through the nits options and find the one that keeps all the white details intact in the clouds. Then I go through the modes to find the best one. I usually land on something between 200-500 nits and mode 2 or 4. You can do similar with a dark scene to find the right mode too. Then I would use the best compromise between these two.

Also, keep I mind when you turn off HDR in the projector, you're not disabling whether you're actually receiving and displaying an HDR image. You're just telling the projector not to go into its preset HDR mode and the preset settings it uses. You're allowing yourself to customize it to look it's best with the German custom curves or the Oppo beta HDR to SDR settings, and that's what I like and the way it should be.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MOberhardt View Post
Thanks for responding. I wonder how hard it it tweaking your own to more suit the higher brightness. I just have the chance of getting a no-hour used 550/675 (a DOA unit with a replaced board from a service agent) for the same price as a 360 and am trying to decide if I'll get it.

I'd be all over that like white on rice! If you don't want it, send me his name and contact info and I'll buy it!
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Last edited by Dave Harper; 02-24-2018 at 02:20 PM.
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post #1736 of 2036 Old 02-24-2018, 03:12 PM
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I'd be all over that like white on rice! If you don't want it, send me his name and contact info and I'll buy it!
I'm in Australia (and the projector) so might be a bit tough! I've ordered it anyhow
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Quote:
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I'm in Australia (and the projector) so might be a bit tough! I've ordered it anyhow
You'll like it. The 675es was a big step up from the 285es contrast wise. Coming from JVC, I'm pretty satisfied.
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post #1738 of 2036 Old 02-26-2018, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Harper View Post
I recall seeing something similar when I was watching Planet Earth II. The scene with the bear inside the cave surrounded by snow. I "think" that was when I was using the 365 or 675ES that I had here at the time, but it could've also been the Epson 5040, LS10000 or LS10500. I'll see if I can find the post I made here asking about it which should be in the respective projector thread to reveal which one it was. I don't have time now, but I'll try to search later, or someone else can. Good luck and let me know any findings!




I found that it is more a combination of the Mode (1,2,3,4) and the peak nits selection that takes care of blowing out the highlights. What I do is pause on a scene like a very bright sky with clouds, then I step through the nits options and find the one that keeps all the white details intact in the clouds. Then I go through the modes to find the best one. I usually land on something between 200-500 nits and mode 2 or 4. You can do similar with a dark scene to find the right mode too. Then I would use the best compromise between these two.

Also, keep I mind when you turn off HDR in the projector, you're not disabling whether you're actually receiving and displaying an HDR image. You're just telling the projector not to go into its preset HDR mode and the preset settings it uses. You're allowing yourself to customize it to look it's best with the German custom curves or the Oppo beta HDR to SDR settings, and that's what I like and the way it should be.




I'd be all over that like white on rice! If you don't want it, send me his name and contact info and I'll buy it!


I have a 675 that I think I’m going to sell for financial reasons and get something cheaper. It’s about a year old but haven’t put a crazy amount of hours on it. I have 4 years of Geek Squad Protection on it but would technically have probably 3 remaining. Where would I go to list it on this site as I will be giving a pretty good price on it? You interested?


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post #1739 of 2036 Old 02-28-2018, 07:04 AM
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Welcoming myself to the VW675ES club. My projector was just installed this morning. I had a Runco LS-5 before.

Currently I have it set to cinema film mode 1 although I think the picture is too sharp.

Any initial suggestions as far as setup is concerned while I read through this thread?

David M.
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post #1740 of 2036 Old 02-28-2018, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dminches View Post
Welcoming myself to the VW675ES club. My projector was just installed this morning. I had a Runco LS-5 before.

Currently I have it set to cinema film mode 1 although I think the picture is too sharp.

Any initial suggestions as far as setup is concerned while I read through this thread?
Hi there. Congrats on the 675.

Try turning Reality Creation right down and Sharpness too. Then just start ramping RC up little by little until you see what you like.

I would leave sharpness off.

Have fun.
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